One of these delusions is the "simple white muslin" delusion

FROM A GIRL'S POINT OF VIEW

BY

LILIAN BELL

1897

* * * * *

BY LILIAN BELL

THE LOVE AFFAIRS OF AN OLD MAID. 16mo, Cloth, Ornamental, Uncut Edges

and Gilt Top, $1 25.

... The love affairs of an old maid are not her own, but other

people's, and in this volume we have the love trials and joys of a

variety of persons described and analyzed.... The peculiarity of this

book is that each type is perfectly distinct, clear, and

interesting.... Altogether the book is by far the best of

those recently written on the tender passion.--_Cincinnati

Commercial-Gazette_.

THE UNDER SIDE OF THINGS. A Novel. 16mo, Cloth, Ornamental, Uncut

Edges and Gilt Top, $1 25.

A tenderly beautiful story.... This book is Miss Bell's best effort,

and most in the line of what we hope to see her proceed in, dainty and

keen and bright, and always full of the fine warmth and tenderness of

splendid womanhood.--_Interior_, Chicago.

* * * * *

Dedicated

WITH MANY APPREHENSIONS TO

THE DULL READER

WHO WILL INSIST UPON TAKING THIS BOOK LITERALLY

CONTENTS

THE UNTRAINED MAN UNDER THIRTY-FIVE

THE PHILOSOPHY OF CLOTHES

WOMAN'S RIGHTS IN LOVE

MEN AS LOVERS

LOVE-MAKING AS A FINE ART

GIRLS AND OTHER GIRLS

ON THE SUBJECT OF HUSBANDS

A FEW MEN WHO BORE US:

THE SELF-MADE MAN

THE DYSPEPTIC

THE TOO-ACCURATE MAN

THE IRRESISTIBLE MAN

THE STUPID MAN

THE NEW WOMAN

THE UNTRAINED MAN UNDER THIRTY-FIVE

"Since we deserved the name of friends,

And thine effect so lives in me,

A part of mine may live in thee,

And move thee on to noble ends."

Every woman has had, at some time in her life, an experience with man

in the raw. In reality, one cannot set down with any degree of

accuracy the age when his rawness attacks him, or the time when he has

got the last remnant of it out of his system. But a close study of the

complaint, and the necessity for pigeon-holing everything and

everybody, lead one to declare that somewhere in the vicinity of the

age of thirty-five man emerges from his rawness and becomes a part of

trained humanity--a humanity composed of men and women trained in the

art of living together.

I am impressed with Professor Horton's remarks on this subject: "It

has sometimes struck me as very singular," he says, "that while

nothing is so common and nothing is so difficult as living with other

people, we are seldom instructed in our youth how to do it well. Our

knowledge of the subject is acquired by experience, chiefly by

failures. And by the time that we have tolerably mastered the delicate

art, we are on the point of being called to the isolation of the

grave--or shall I say to the vast company of the Majority?

"But an art of so much practical moment deserves a little more

consideration. It should not be taught by chance, or in fragments, but

duly deployed, expounded, and enforced. It is of far more pressing

importance, for example, than the art of playing the piano or the

violin, and is quite as difficult to learn.

"It is written, 'It is not good that man should be alone'; but, on the

other hand, it is often far from good to be with him. A docile cat is

preferable, a mongoose, or even a canary. Indeed, for want of proper

instruction, a large number of the human race, as they are known in

this damp and foggy island, are 'gey ill to live wi',' and no one

would attempt it but for charity and the love of God."

Now who but women are responsible for the training of men? If the

mother has neglected her obvious duty in training her son to be a

livable portion of humanity, who but the girls must take up her lost

opportunities? It is with the class of men whose mothers _have_

neglected to train them in the art of living that we have to deal; the

man with whom feminine influence--refining, broadening, softening,

graciously smoothing out soul-wrinkles, and generously polishing off

sharp mental corners--has had no part. It need not necessarily mean

men who have not encountered feminine influence, but it does mean

those who never have yielded to it. The natural and to-be-looked-for

conceit of youth may have been the barrier which prevented their

yielding. There is a time when the youth of twenty knows more than any

one on earth could teach him, and more than he ever will know again; a

time when, no matter how kind his heart, he is incased in a mental

haughtiness before which plain Wisdom is dumb. But a time will come

when the keenness of some girl's stiletto of wit will prick the empty

bubble of his flamboyant egoism, and he will, for the first time,

learn that he is but an untrained man under thirty-five.

This elastic classification does not obtain with either geniuses or

fools. It deals with the average man as the average girl knows him,

and may refer to every man in her acquaintance or only to one. It

certainly _must_ refer to one! Misery loves company to such an extent

that I could not bear to think that there was any girl living who did

not occasionally have to grapple with the problem of at least one man

in the raw, if only for her own discipline.

You cannot argue with the untrained man under thirty-five. In fact, I

never argue with anybody, either man or woman, because women are not

reasonable beings and men are too reasonable. I never am willing to

follow a chain of reasoning to its logical conclusion, because, if I

do, men can make me admit so many things that are not true. I abhor a

syllogism. Alas, how often have I picked my cautious way through

three-quarters of one, only to sit down at the critical moment,

declaring I would not go another step, and then to hear some

argumentative man cry, "But you admitted all previous steps. Don't you

know that this naturally _must_ follow?" Well, perhaps it _does_

follow, only I don't believe it is true. It may be very clever of the

men to reason, and perhaps I am very stupid not to be able to admit

the truth of their conclusions, but I feel like declaring with Josh

Billings, "I'd rather not know so much than to know so much that ain't

so."

Conversation with the untrained man under thirty-five is equally

impossible, because he never converses; he only talks. And your chief

accomplishment of being a good listener is entirely thrown away on

him, because a mere talker never cares whether you listen or not as

long as you do not interrupt him. He only wants the floor and the

sound of his own voice. It is the trained man over thirty-five who can

converse and who wishes you to respond.

The untrained man desires to be amused. The trained man wishes to

amuse. A man under thirty-five is in this world to be made happy. The

man over thirty-five tries to make you happy.

There is no use of uttering a protest. You simply must wait, and let

life take it out of him. The man under thirty-five is being trained in

a thousand ways every day that he lives. Some learn more quickly than

others. It depends on the type of man and on the length of time he is

willing to remain in the raw.

You can do little to help him, if you are the first girl to take a

hand at him. You can but prepare him to be a little more amenable to

the next girl. His mind is not on you. It is centred on himself. You

are only an entity to him, not an individual. He cares nothing for

your likes and dislikes, your cares or hopes or fears. He only wishes

you to be pretty and well dressed. Have a mind if you will. He will

not know it. Have a heart and a soul. They do not concern him, because

he cannot see them. He likes to have you tailor-made. You are a Girl

to him. That's all. The eyes of the untrained man under thirty-five

are never taken off himself. They are always turned in. He is studying

himself first and foremost, and the world at large is interesting to

him only inasmuch as it bears relation to himself as the pivotal

point. He fully indorses Pope's line, "The proper study of mankind is

man," and he is that man. Join in his pursuit if you will; show the

wildest enthusiasm in his golf record or how many lumps of sugar he

takes in his coffee, and he will evince neither surprise nor gratitude

for your interest. You are only showing your good taste.

Try to talk to the untrained man under thirty-five upon any subject

except himself. Bait him with different topics of universal interest,

and try to persuade him to leave his own point of view long enough to

look through the eyes of the world. And then notice the hopeless

persistence with which he avoids your dexterous efforts and mentally

lies down to worry his Ego again, like a dog with a bone.

The conceit of one of these men is the most colossal specimen of

psychological architecture in existence. As a social study, when I

have him under the microscope, I can enjoy this. I revel in it, just

as I do in a view of the ocean or the heavens at night--anything so

vast that I cannot see to the end of it. It suggests eternity or

space. But oh! what I have suffered from a mental contact with this

phase of him in society! Sometimes he really is ignorant--has no

brains at all--and then my suffering is lingering. Sometimes he really

knows a great deal--has the making of a man in him, only it lies

fallow for want of training--and then my suffering is acute. When

success--business or social or athletic or literary or artistic--comes

to the untrained man under thirty-five, it comes pitifully near being

his ruin. The adulation of the world is more intoxicating and more

deadly than to drink absinthe out of a stein; more insidious than

opium; more fatal than poison. It unsettles the steadiest brain and

feeds the too-ravenous Ego with a food which at first he deemed nectar

and ambrosia, but which he soon comes to feel is the staff of life,

and no more than he deserves. With success should come the

determination, be you man or woman, to fall upon your knees every day

and pray Heaven for strength to keep from believing what people tell

you, so that you still may be bearable to your friends and livable to

your family.

I know that all this will fall unkindly upon the ears of many a worthy

man under thirty-five whose charm is still in embryo, and that, unless

he is very clever, he will be mortally offended, and never believe my

solemn assertion that I am the stanchest friend the man of

possibilities has. Let him take care how he resents my amiable

brutality, or how he denounces me as his enemy, for if I were not

interested in the untrained man under thirty-five I wouldn't bother

with him, would I?

I know, too, that a diplomatic feminine contingency will raise a howl

of protest, and will read this aloud to men under thirty-five for the

express purpose of disclaiming all complicity with such heterodox

views, and doubtless will be able to make the men believe them.

Tactful girls are a necessity, and I approve of them. I do not in the

least mind their disclaiming my views to specific men, especially if I

can catch their eye for one subtle moment when the men are not

looking. On this subject there is a certain delicately veiled,

comprehending, soul-satisfying, mental _wink_ going the rounds of the

girls, indicating our comradeship and unanimity of thought quite as

understandingly as the fraternal grip stands for fellowship among

masons. We girls have been thinking these things for a long time, and,

with this declaration of independence, the shackles will fall from

many a girl's soul, because another girl has dared to speak out in

meeting.

Of course, I know, too, that girls with nice brothers and cousins and

husbands under thirty-five will also offer violent protest. I am

perfectly willing. Doubtless their feminine influence has circumvented

nature to such an extent that no one would suspect that their men were

under thirty-five. I only beg of them to remember that I am not

discussing girl-trained men or widowers. Both of these types are as

near perfection as a man can become.

A man whom girls have trained is really modest. Even at twenty he does

not think that he knows it all. He is willing to admit that his father

and mother have brains, and that thirty years' experience entitles

them to a hearing. He also is willing to give the girls a show, to

humor them, to find them interesting as studies, but never to claim to

understand them. In short, he has many of the charming qualities of

the man over thirty-five and the widower. That is the man who is

girl-trained. But Heaven help the man who is girl-spoiled.

Far be it from me to say that the untrained man under thirty-five, at

his worst, is of no use in this world. He is excellent for a two-step.

I have used a number of them very successfully in this way. But I know

the awful thought has already pierced some people's brains--what if

the man under thirty-five does not dance?

Sometimes an untrained man under thirty-five will actually have the

audacity to say to me that he takes small pleasure in society because

the girls he meets are so silly, and he must use small-talk in order

to meet them on their own ground. I am aghast at his temerity, as he,

too, will be when he has heard our side of the subject. We girls never

have allowed ourselves the luxury of vindicating ourselves, or

refuting this charge. It is the clever girl who suffers most of

all--not the brilliant, meteoric girl--but just the ordinarily clever

girl, as other girls know her. It is this sort of a girl who drags

upon my sympathies, because she occupies an anomalous position.

Being a real woman, she likes to be liked. She wishes to please men.

We all do. But what kind of men are we to please? Untrained men under

thirty-five? Owing to the horrible prevalence of these men, some girls

become neither fish nor flesh nor good red herring. They see their

silly, pink-cheeked sisters followed and admired. They know either how

shallow these girls are or how cleverly hypocritical. Clever girls are

also human. They love to go about and wear pretty clothes, and dance,

and be admired quite as much as anybody.

The result is that they adopt the only course left to them, and,

bringing themselves down to the level of the men, feign a frivolity

and a levity which occasionally call forth from a thinking man a

criticism which is, in a sense, totally undeserved. What will not the

untrained man under thirty-five have to answer for on the Day of

Judgment!

It is of no use to argue about this state of things. Facts are facts.

Men make no secret of the kind of women they want us to be. We get

preached at from pulpits and lectured at from platforms and written

about by "The Saunterer" and "The Man About Town" and "The One Who

Knows It All," telling us how to be womanly, how to look to please

men, how to behave to please men, and how to save our souls to please

men, until, if we were not a sweet, amiable set, we would rebel as a

sex and declare that we thought we were lovely just the way we were,

and that we were not going to change for anybody.

You lords of creation ought to be very complaisant, or else very much

ashamed of yourselves. You send in an order: "The kind of girl that I

like is a Methodist without bangs." And some nice girl begins to look

up Methodist tenets and buys invisible hairpins and side combs. Or you

say, "Give me an athletic girl." And, presto! some girl who would much

rather read buys a wheel, and learns golf, and lets out the waists to

her gowns, and revels in tan and freckles. We do what you men want us

to. And, then, when you complain about our lack of brains, that we

cannot discuss current events, and that you have to give us society

small-talk, I feel like saying: "Well, whose fault is it? If you

demand brains, we will cultivate them. If you want good looks, we will

try to scare up some. If you want nobility, we will let you know how

much we have concealed about us."

Often it is not that we are not secretly much more of women, and

better and cleverer women, than you think us. But there is no call for

such wares, so we lay character and brain on the shelves to mildew,

and fill the show-windows with confectionery and illusion. We supply

the demand. We always have supplied it, and we always will.

Of course, some of us get very much disgusted with the débutantes.

But, aside from the great superiority they have over girls with

thinking powers (in regard to the number of men who admire them, for

all men admire cooing girls with dimples)--aside from this, I say,

there is something to be said on their behalf. Don't you believe, you

dear, unsuspicious men, who dote upon their pliability and the

trustfulness of their innocent, limpid blue or brown-eyed gaze, which

meets your own with such implied flattery to your superior strength

and intelligence--don't you believe for one moment that the simple

little dears do not know exactly the part they are playing. They are

twice as clever as the cleverest of you. They feel that they are

needed just as they are. The fashionable schools are turning them out

every year exactly as the untrained men under thirty-five would wish

them to be. They know this. Therefore they remain as art has made

them. Feeling themselves admired by the class of men they most wish to

attract, they have no incentive to improve.

And yet, I suppose, untrained men under thirty-five have their use in

the world, aside from the part they play in the discipline of

discriminating young women. Girls even marry these men. Lovely girls,

too. Clever girls--girls who know a hundred times more than their

husbands, and are ten times finer grained. I wonder if they love them,

if they are satisfied with them, if _ennui_ of the soul is not a

bitter thing to bear?

I am always wondering why girls marry them. Every week brings me

knowledge that some lovely girl I know has found another man under

thirty-five, or that some of my men friends of that persuasion have

married out-of-town girls. It does not surprise me so much when girls

from another city marry them. Most men do not like to write letters,

and visits are only for over Sunday.

Men are always saying, "Well, why don't you tell us the kind of men

you would like us to be?" And their attitude when they say it is with

their thumbs in the arm-holes of their waistcoats. When a man is

thoroughly satisfied with himself he always expands his chest.

There is something very funny to me in that question, because I

suppose they really think they would change to please us. I do not

mind talking about it, because I am sociable, and I like conversation;

but I never for a moment dream that they will do it. They intend to,

and their inclination is always to please us, even to spoil us; but

they either cannot or will not change; and they think if they can

refuse pleasantly, and mentally chuck us under the chin and make us

smile, that they have succeeded in getting our minds off a troublesome

subject.

Of course, it is partly our fault that we do not insist, but no one

wants to be disagreeable. Therefore we choose personal discomfort for

ourselves rather than to demand radical changes in the men, which

might bring on contention.

But women wish to please men, aside from their power of winning them.

Whereas if men can get the girls without any change on their part,

they consider themselves a howling success. But they might be a little

bit surprised if they could read the minds of these very wives whom

they have won, whose life-work often may be only to improve them so

that they will make some other woman the kind of a husband they should

have made at first, and then to lie down and die.

So let men beware how they criticise us unfavorably, no matter what

their ages, for the truth of the matter is that, be we frivolous or

serious, vain or sensible, clever or stupid, rich or poor, we are what

the American man has made us. We are supremely grateful to him for the

most part, for he has literally made us what we are by the sweat of

his brow. But let him beware how he cavils at his own handiwork. 'Tis

not for the untrained man under thirty-five to complain of us, when

now he knows why we are so.

"I'm not denyin' that women are foolish," says George Eliot. "God

Almighty made 'em to match the men."

THE PHILOSOPHY OF CLOTHES

"Last night in blue my little love was dressed;

And as she walked the room in maiden grace,

I looked into her fair and smiling face.

And said that blue became my darling best.

But when, this morn, a spotless virgin vest

And robe of white did the blue one displace,

She seemed a pearl-tinged-cloud, and I was--space!

She filled my soul as cloud-shapes fill the West.

"And so it is that, changing day by day--

Changing her robe, but not her loveliness--

Whether the gown be blue or white or gray,

I deem that one her most becoming dress.

The truth is this: In any robe or way,

I love her just the same, and cannot love her less!"

If you are interested in the spectacle of letting people paint their

own portraits, at the same time entirely unconscious that they are

doing so, ask a number of women and girls whether they dress to please

men or other women, and then listen carefully to what they say and

watch their faces well while they are saying it. Most of the girls

will say they dress to please women; and the reason I ask you to watch

their faces is that you may see the subtle changes going on by which

they persuade themselves that they are telling the truth. Women--nice,

sweet women, the kind _we_ know--seldom tell a real untruth. But they

have a way of persuading themselves that what they are about to say is

the truth. Women must believe in themselves before they can hope to

make other people believe in them; therefore they have themselves to

persuade first of all. Now, when men are going to utter an untruth

they never care whether they believe it or not, as long as they can

make other people believe it. And the so-called brutal honesty of man

is only brutal want of tact. That poor, patient, misused word,

"honesty"! How sick it must get of its abuse!

Yes, girls really believe, I suppose, that they dress for other girls.

But they do not. They dress for men. And only experience will teach

them the highest wisdom in the matter. But that they cannot acquire

until they believe that only another woman will know just how well

they are dressed, and, above all, whether Doucet turned them out, or a

dress-maker in the house at two dollars a day.

Men only take in the effect. Women know how the effect is produced. Of

course, now I am speaking of the general run of men and women: neither

the man who clerked at Cash & Silk's nor the one who pays his wife's

bills in Paris, but the man in his native state of charming ignorance

of materials; the man who always suggests a "gusset" as a remedy for

too scant a gown, who calls insertion "tatting," and who, in setting

out for the opera, will tell his wife to put on her "bonnet and

shawl," although she may have on point-lace and diamonds. In his more

modern aspect he tells you that a girl at the Junior Promenade had on

a blue dress with feathers around her neck--which you must translate

into meaning anything from blue satin to organdie, and that between

dances she wore a feather boa.

It is the effect only that men take in; and when a man goes into

ecstasies over a gown of pale green on a hot day just because you look

so cool and fresh in it, when you know that you paid but forty cents a

yard for it, and only nods when you show him your velvet and ermine

wrap, which cost you two hundred dollars, I would just like to ask you

if it pays to dress for him. Women know this from a sorrowful

experience. Girls have to learn it for themselves. A ball-dress of

white tarlatan, made up over white paper cambric, with a white sash,

will satisfy a man quite as well as a Paris muslin trimmed with a

hundred dollars' worth of Valenciennes lace and made up over silk.

Most of them would never know the difference.

I do not know whether to be sorry for these men or not. It must be

lovely not to agonize and plan and worry to have everything the best

of its kind. I would like to take in only the effect, and never know

why I was pleased. Too much analysis is death to unmitigated rapture.

You always are haunted by knowing exactly what is lacking, and just

how it could be remedied. But these dear men are singularly deluded in

many ways, and upon these delusions clever women play, as a master

plays upon an organ. And young girls, who have not had time to study

into the philosophy of it--how should the poor things know that

clothes have any philosophy?--as usual, have to suffer for it.

One of these delusions is the "simple white muslin" delusion. When a

man speaks of a "simple white muslin" in the softly admiring tone

which he generally adopts to go with it, he means anything on earth in

the line of a thin, light stuff which produces in his mind the effect

of youth and innocence. A ball-dress or a cotton morning-gown is to

him a "simple white muslin."

Now a word with you, you dear, unsophisticated man. I have heard you,

with the sound of your hundred-and-fifty-dollar-a-month salary ringing

in your ears, gurgle and splash about a girl who wears "simple white

muslins" to balls; and I have heard you set down, as extravagant, and

too rich for your purse, the girl who wears silk. There is no more

extravagant or troublesome gown in the world than what you call a

"simple white muslin." In the first place, it never is muslin, unless

it is Paris muslin, which is no joke, if you are thinking of paying

for it yourself, as it necessitates a silk lining, which costs more

than the outside. If it is trimmed with lace, that would take as much

of your salary as the coal for all winter would come to. If trimmed

with ribbons, they must be changed often to freshen the gown, whose

only beauty is its freshness. Deliver me from a soiled or stringy

white party-dress! If it can be worn five times during the winter, the

girl is either a careful dancer or else a wallflower. In either case,

after every wearing she must have it pressed out and put away as

daintily as if it were egg-shells, all of which is the greatest

nuisance on earth. Often such a gown is torn all to pieces the first

time it is worn. Scores of "simple white muslin" ball-gowns at a

hundred dollars apiece are only worn once or twice.

Now take the "extravagant" girl with her flowered taffeta silk, or

plain satin, or brocade dress. There is at once the effect of richness

and elegance. No matter how sweet and pretty she is, you at once

decide that you never could afford to dress her. But that taffeta

cost, perhaps, only a dollar a yard. The satin, possibly a dollar and

a half. They require almost no trimming, because the material is so

handsome and the effect must be as simple as possible. Such a gown

never need be lined with silk unless you wish to do it. Many a girl

gets up such a gown for fifty or sixty dollars. And then think of the

service that there is in it. It does not tear, it does not crush. When

she comes home she looks as fresh as when she started. When it soils

at the edge of the skirt, she has it cleaned, and there she is with a

new dress again. Do you call that extravagant? Why, my dear sirs, it

is only the very rich who can afford to wear "simple white muslins!"

There is a hollowness about having a man praise your gowns when you

know he doesn't know what he is talking about. When a man praises your

clothes he always is praising you in them. You never will hear a man

praise even the good dressing of a woman he dislikes; while girls who

positively hate another girl often will add, "But she certainly does

know how to dress."

And so the experienced woman wears her expensive clothes for other

women, and produces her "effects" for men. She wears scarlet on a cold

or raw day, and the eyes of the men light up when they see her. It

makes her look cheerful and bright and warm. She wears gray when she

wants to look demure. Let a man beware of a woman in silvery gray. She

looks so quiet and dove-like and gentle that she has disarmed him

before she has spoken one word, and he will snuggle down beside her

and let her turn his mind and his pocket-book wrong side out. A woman

could not look designing in light gray if she tried. He dotes upon the

girl in pale blue. Pale blue naturally suggests to his mind the sort

of girl who can wear it, which is generally a blonde with soft, fluffy

hair, fair skin, and blue eyes--appealing, trustful, baby-blue eyes.

Did you ever notice that men always instinctively put confidence in a

girl with blue eyes, and have their suspicions of a girl with

brilliant black ones, and will you kindly tell me why? Is it that the

limpid blue eye, transparent and gentle, suggests all the soft,

womanly virtues, and because he thinks he can see through it, clear

down into that blue-eyed girl's soul, that she is the kind of girl he

fancies she is? I think it is; but some of the greatest little frauds

I know are the purry, kitteny girls with big, innocent blue eyes.

Blazing black eyes, and the rich, warm colors which dark-skinned women

have to wear, suggest energy and brilliance and no end of intellect.

Men look into such eyes and seem not to be able to see below the

surface. They have not the pleasure of a long, deep gaze into

immeasurable depths. And so they think her designing and clever, and

(God save the mark!) even intellectual, when perhaps she has a wealth

of love and devotion and heroism stored up behind that impulsive

disposition and those dazzling black eyes which would do and dare more

in a minute for some man she had set that great heart of hers upon

than your cool-blooded, tranquil blonde would do in forty years. A

mere question of pigment in the eye has settled many a man's fate in

life, and established him with a wife who turned out to be very

different from the girl he fondly thought he was getting.

Yet whenever I complain to experienced married women of how

discouraging it is to wear your good clothes for unappreciative men,

they beg me not to be guilty of the heresy of wishing things

different. If they have married one of the noticing kind, they tell me

harrowing tales of gorgeous costumes having been cast aside because

these critical men made fun of, or were prejudiced against them, and

"made remarks." And they point with envy to Mrs. So-and-So, whose

husband never knows what she has on, but who thinks she looks lovely

in everything, so that she is at liberty to dress as she pleases. When

a woman defers to her husband's taste, she sometimes is the

best-dressed woman in the room. And sometimes another woman, dressing

according to another man's taste, is the worst-dressed. So you see you

never can tell. "De mule don't kick 'cordin' to no rule."

There is something rather pathetic to me about a man being so ignorant

of why a woman's dress is beautiful, but only the effect remaining in

his memory. He remembers how she looked on a certain day in a certain

gown. He thinks he remembers her dress. He thinks he would know it

again if he saw it. But the truth is that he is remembering the woman

herself, her face, her voice, her eyes--above all, what she said, and

how she said it. If she wore a scarlet ribbon in her dark hair, a red

rose in another woman's hair will most unaccountably bring it all back

to him, and he will not know why he suddenly sees the whole picture

rise out of the past before his eyes, nor why his throat aches with

the memory of it.

I know one of these men, whose descriptions of a woman's dress are one

of the experiences of a lifetime. He loves the word bombazine. His

mother must have worn a gown of black bombazine during his

impressionable age. And he never will be successful in describing a

modern gown until bombazines again become the rage. This same dear man

brought back to his invalid wife a description of a fashionable noon

wedding, which consisted of the single item that the bride wore a blue

alpaca bonnet. It really would be of interest from a scientific point

of view to know what suggested that combination to any intelligence,

even if it were masculine.

I have more evidence to go on, however, when I wonder why the idea of

the cost penetrates this same man's brain when shown a new gown by any

member of his family, all of whom he is weak enough to adore. His

daughter will say, "Papa, do look here just one minute! How do you

like my new gown?" And the answer never varies: "Very pretty, indeed.

I hope it's paid for." He will say that of a cotton frock made two

years ago--he never knows--of a silk _négligé_, or of a ball-gown of

the newest make. The fashion produces no impression upon him, nor the

material, nor the cut. But let his daughter put on any kind of a pale

green dress, and stand before him with the question, "Papa, how do you

like my new gown?" While he is raising his head from his book he

begins the old formula, "Very pretty. I hope--" Then he stops and

says, "I have seen that dress before. Child, you grow to look more

like your mother every day of your life." And there is a little break

in his voice, and before he goes on reading he takes off his glasses

and wipes them, and looks out of the window without seeing anything,

and sits very still for a moment. It was the sight of the pale green

dress. When he came home from the war his lovely young wife, whom he

lost when she was still young and beautiful, came to meet him, holding

her baby son in her arms for his father to see, and she had worn a

pale green gown.

Why certain kinds of clothes are associated in the public mind with

certain kinds of women is to me an amusing mystery. Why are old maids

always supposed to wear black silks? And why are they always supposed

to be thin?--the old maids, I mean, not the silks. Why are literary

women always supposed to be frayed at the edges? And why, if they keep

up with the fashions and wear patent-leathers, do people say, in an

exasperatingly astonished tone, "Can that woman write books?" Why not,

pray? Does a fragment of genius corrupt the aesthetic sense? Is

writing a hardening process? Must you wear shabby boots and carry a

baggy umbrella just because you can write? Not a bit of it. Little as

some of you men may think it, literary women have souls, and a woman

with a soul must, of necessity, love laces and ruffled petticoats, and

high heels, and rosettes. Otherwise I question her possession of a

soul.

WOMAN'S RIGHTS IN LOVE

"She has laughed as softly as if she sighed!

She has counted six and over,

Of a purse well filled and a heart well tried--

Oh, each a worthy lover!

They 'give her time' for her soul must slip

When the world has set the grooving;

She will lie to none with her fair red lip--

But love seeks truer loving.

* * * * *

"Unless you can muse in a crowd all day

On the absent face that fixed you;

Unless you can love as the angels may,

With the breadth of heaven betwixt you;

Unless you can dream that his faith is fast,

Through behooving and unbehooving;

Unless you can DIE when the dream is past--

Oh, never call it loving!"

In love a woman's first right is to be protected from her friends

while she considers the man whom she contemplates loving. The

well-meant blundering of vitally interested friends has spoiled many a

promising love affair, which might have resulted in a marriage so much

above the ordinary that it could be termed satisfactory even by the

most captious.

At no time in a girl's life has she a greater right to work out her

own salvation in fear and trembling than during the period known among

girls as "making up her mind." If she is the right kind of a girl,

honest and delicate minded, it is nerve-racking to be talked about,

and sacrilege to be talked to. Then the bloom is on the grape, which a

rude touch mars forever.

Yet these kind friends never think of the delicate, touch-me-not

influences at work in the girl's soul, or that the instinct to hide

her real interest in the man precludes the possibility of her daring

to ask to be let alone. So they, in their over-zeal and ambition,

either make the path of love so easy and inevitable that all the zest

is taken out of it for both (for lovers never want somebody to go

ahead and baste the problem for them; they want to blind-stitch it for

themselves as they go along), or else, by critical nagging, and

balancing the eligibility of one suitor against another, these friends

so harass and upset the poor girl that she doesn't know which man she

wants, and so turns her back upon all.

In point of fact, when a man is in love, and a girl does not yet know

her own mind; when she is weighing out their adaptability, and

balancing his love for football against her passion for Browning;

during the delicate, tentative period, when the most affectionate

solicitude from friends is an irritation, there ought to be a law

banishing the interested couple to an island peopled with strangers,

who would not discover the delicacy of the situation until it was too

late to spoil it.

"Woman's rights." I certainly agree with the men who think that those

words have a masculine, assertive, belligerent sound. "Equal suffrage"

is much more lady-like, and we are by way of getting all we wish of

the men on any subject, under the gentlest title by which it may be

called. Strange, how, with strong men, force never avails, but the

softest methods are the surest and swiftest.

However, equal suffrage, wide as it is, is not all that I wish. It

does well enough, but it does not cover the entire ground. I never

clamored very much for women to be recognized as the equals of men,

either in politics or in love, because, if I had clamored at all, I

should have clamored for infinitely more than that. _I_ should have

clamored for men to recognize us as their superiors, and not for equal

rights with themselves, but for more, many more rights than they ever

dreamed of possessing. 'Tis not justice I crave, but mercy. 'Tis not

equality, but chivalry.

In the whole history of the world, from nineteenth-century Public

Opinion clear back to the age of chivalry, men never have been

inclined to deal out justice to women. It is their watchword with each

other, but with women it always is either injustice or mercy. And in

spite of all wrongs and all abuses, I say, Heaven bless the men that

this is so. Human nature is more fundamental than customs, and what

would become of women if we only got our exact deserts, or had

absolute justice dealt to us, either by men or other women or on the

Judgment Day?

In these latter days of this progressive, woman's century, however,

the most thoughtful men are valiant enough to re-adjust themselves to

the idea of woman's development, and allow her equality in progressive

thought; at the same time maintaining the old-time chivalry of their

attitude towards her. If she asks for justice at the hands of these

glorious men, she will get it, and they will uncover in her presence

and throw away their cigars while they are dispensing it. Equality to

them does not mean either rudeness or insolence. They are always

gentlemen.

It requires bravery on their part to take this ground, because the

sentiment has not as yet grown popular. But a New Man has been created

by the development of the New Woman, and he is the highest type we

have.

"Courtesy wins woman as well

As valor may, but he that closes both

Is perfect."

Woman's rights! Why, the very first right we expect is to be treated

better than anybody else! Better than men treat each other as a body,

and better by the individual man than he treats all other women. I

abominate the idea of equality, and to be mentally slapped on the

shoulder and told I am "a good fellow." I shrink from the idea of

independence and cold, proud isolation with my emancipated

sister-women, who struggle into their own coats unassisted and get red

in the face putting on their own skates, and hang on to a strap in the

street-car, in the proud consciousness that they are independent and

the equal of men. I never worry myself when a man is on his knees in

front of me, tying the ribbons of my slipper, as to whether he

considers me his equal politically or not. It is sufficient

satisfaction for me to see him there. If he hadn't wanted to save me

the trouble, I suppose he wouldn't have offered. He may even think I

am not strong enough for such an arduous duty. _That_ would not hurt

my feelings either. I have an idea that he likes it better to think

that I cannot do anything troublesome for myself than to believe that

I could get along perfectly without him. In fact--here's heresy for

you, O ye emancipated!--I do not in the least mind being dependent on

men--provided the men are nice enough. Let them give us all the

so-called rights they want to. I shall never get over wanting to get

behind some man if I see a cow. Let them give us a vote, if they will.

I shall want at least three men to go with me to the polls--one to

hold my purse, one to hold my gloves, and the third to show me how to

cast my vote.

If women are serious in wanting to vote in politics, why do they not

apply to the body politic the same methods they use with the one man

which an all-wise Destiny has committed to their keeping?

If all the women in the world should make up their minds that they

wanted to vote worse than anything else on earth--worse even than they

want their husbands to go to church with them--and each woman would

put on her prettiest clothes, and cuddle up to her own particular man

in her softest and most womanish way, when she was begging him to get

suffrage for her--why, you all know they would do it. Men would get it

for us exactly as they would buy us a pair of horses.

Have you men ever thought about practising for suffrage in politics by

giving women suffrage in love? Surely you do not doubt that, should

you do this, it would not occur to us to stuff the ballot-boxes, or to

put up a ticket with any but honorable candidates for our hands. We do

not ask nor wish to indicate who shall run for office. Let the men

announce themselves candidates. We would not take the initiative there

if it were offered to us for a thousand years. All we ask is to be

given plenty of time to canvass the honor of the candidates,

thoroughly to understand and investigate the platform (with an eye to

how near he will come to sticking to his promises after election), and

to be allowed to cast a free and untrammelled vote.

Now, men seem to think that if they allowed woman equal suffrage, the

bright white light of our honesty would be too strong a glare for

their weak eyes--so long accustomed to darkness--to bear. Um--possibly

in politics. Hardly in love.

For myself, I consider absolute honesty most unpleasant. I never knew

any really nice, lovable women who were unflinchingly honest. But I

have known a few iron-visaged, square-jawed women who were so brutally

honest that I have most ingloriously fled at the mention of their

approach, and solaced myself with a congenial spirit who is in the

habit of skirting delicately around painful truth, and a cozy corner

in which to abuse the aforesaid iron-visaged carver of helpless

humanity, who loves to draw blood with her truth. Such an one will get

a vote in politics long before she gets it in love.

No; men need not fear to give us equal suffrage in love. Our honesty

will not be disconcerting. (I would even address a private query, at

just this point, to the women, begging that the men will skip it,

asking women where in the world we would find ourselves if we were

unflinchingly honest with the men who love us?) No one will deny that

we would even countenance a certain amount of corruption. We fully

agree with those men who tell us weakly questioning women that

campaign funds are a necessity. We never have been able to discover

just where the money in politics went to, but the expenses of a

campaign in our line are more in evidence. I doubt if the most

straitlaced Puritan will gainsay me when I declare that bribery from

the candidates, in the form of theatres, opera-boxes, flowers,

bonbons, and books, would not only be tolerated, but even, in a modest

manner, encouraged--having, of course, a keen eye as to the elasticity

of the campaign fund. But, of course, just as vulgar bribery, _per

se_, only catches the easy and unthinking voter in politics, so, in

like manner, would these evidences of generosity only capture the less

desirable voter in love. When you men are trying for a woman's vote

you need give yourselves no uneasiness. If she is worth having,

character wins every time. You don't believe that. That is why you

trust to bribery to do it all. And it is also why so many of you get

the girl you try for--which is about the richest punishment you could

receive.

I adore Hamlet. Not because he was so noble as to give up his life to

avenge his father's most foul murder. Not because he was a chivalrous

King Arthur, to protect Ophelia's womanly pride from the jeers of a

coarse court by openly declaring that he had loved her when he hadn't.

Not for any of Shakespeare's reasons for painting him a hero. But for

two much more reasonable reasons. One that he said, "I myself am

indifferent honest"--oh, the humanity of Hamlet!--and the other that,

when under the spell of her beauty and in the tentative, interested

stage when he cared for her all but enough to ask her to marry him, he

had the wit to discover that she was a fool. Imagine the calamity of

Hamlet married to Ophelia! That _would_ have been a tragedy. Think of

a man clever enough to discover that his idol was made of putty--that

his sweetheart was a Rosamond Vincy! Hamlet was a wise man. He

withdrew in time. Most men have to be married ten years to discover

that they have married an Ophelia or a Rosamond.

It is a trite saying that the whole world is behind a woman urging her

to marry. But I find much to interest me in trite sayings. I like to

get hold of them, and look them through, and turn them wrong side out,

and pull them to pieces to find how much life there is in them.

Psychological vivisection is not a subject for the humane society. A

trite saying has my sympathy. It generally is stupid and shop-worn,

and consequently is banished to polite society and hated by the

clever. And only because it possessed a soul of truth and a wonderful

vitality has it been kept from dying long ago of a broken heart.

Books could be written of the truth of this particular trite saying.

The urging, of course, among people whom we know, is neither vulgar

nor intentional. It takes the form of jests, of pseudo-humorous

questions if a man sends flowers two or three times. But it takes its

worst and most common form in the sudden melting away of the family if

the man calls and finds them all together. If a man has no specific

intentions towards a girl, and has not determined in his own mind that

he wants to marry her; if he is only liking her a great deal, with but

an occasional wonder in the depths of his own heart whether this girl

is the wife for him; to call upon her casually and see the family

scatter, and other callers hastily leave, is enough to scare him to

death. And the girl herself has a right to be furiously indignant.

When eligible young people are in that tentative stage, it is death to

a love to make them self-conscious.

I myself am so afraid of brushing the down from the butterfly wings at

this point that, occasionally, when I have been calling, and the

girl's possible lover has caught me before I could escape in a natural

manner, I have doggedly remained, even knowing that perhaps he wished

me well away among the angels, rather than to run the risk of making

him conscious that I understood his state of mind. Imagine my feelings

of anguish, however, at holding on against my will and against theirs,

wanting somebody to help me let go! Much better, I solace myself

afterwards, that he should wish me away than to look after my

retreating form and wish, in Heaven's name, that I had stayed! Better

for the girl, I mean. For my own feelings--but I do not count. I am

only giving a girl one of her rights in love. A few judicious

obstacles but whet a man's appetite--if he is worth having. And I do

not mind being a judicious obstacle once in a while--if I like the

girl.

As to how far a girl has a right to encourage a man in love, opinions

differ. I once asked a clever literary friend of mine, whose husband

is so satisfactory that it is quite a delightful shock to discover it,

how far men ought to be encouraged to make love.

"Encourage them all you can, my dear. The best of men require all the

encouragement one is capable of giving them."

I pondered over that statement. From her point of view it was, of

course, perfectly proper. Married men need all the encouragement they

can get to keep them making love to their own wives. But from our

standpoint, of being girls--and very nice girls too, some of us, if I

do say it myself!--how far have we a right to encourage men to make

love to us?

Now I like men; and I like girls. So that I never want anybody to be

hurt at this very delicate and dangerous game of love-making. But

somebody always _is_ getting hurt, and although she never makes any

fuss about it, it is generally the girl.

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