Duck Raising on the Farm
Duck raising as ordinarily conducted on the general farm consists of the
keeping of a comparatively small flock purely as a side line. Ducks on
the general farm may be kept for the production of meat and eggs, for
egg production, or mainly as a breeding proposition where the idea is to
produce birds of exhibition quality. On occasional farms ducks of the
rarer breeds are kept mainly for ornamental purposes.
_Conditions Suitable for Duck Raising._ A small flock of ducks on the
farm can be kept to best advantage where they can be separated from the
other poultry and where they can have access to a pasture or an orchard
which will provide them with a plentiful supply of green feed. Ducks
stand confinement quite well but if they are closely confined it is
necessary to provide for them the green feed which they cannot secure
for themselves. On many farms the flock of ducks is allowed to range at
liberty and under these conditions the cost of maintaining them is much
lower since they pick up a considerable part of their feed. An enclosed
run or yard, however, should be available where they can be confined
when desired. It is also necessary to provide a house or shed in which
they can be shut at night and during the early morning. Otherwise, many
of the eggs may be dropped anywhere about the place or in the water with
the result that some of them will be lost. A pond or stream to which the
ducks can have access and in which they can swim is a great advantage
since it helps to keep them in good breeding condition. It is a common
but mistaken idea that low, wet land is best suited for ducks.
_Size of Flock._--The average farm flock of ducks is small, rarely
running over 15 to 20 head. In many cases not over 10 or 12 ducks with
one or two drakes will be kept. A flock of this size will furnish quite
a large number of ducks for the farmer's table or for sale in addition
to more or less eggs which can either be used at home or sold.
_Making a Start._ In making a start with a farm flock of ducks it is
probably best to figure on keeping only a few head. If the farmer begins
with 4 or 5 ducks and one drake he can make his start at small expense
and from this number he will be able to increase the size of his flock
if he finds that results warrant it. Probably the best way to make a
start is to purchase the desired breeding stock in the fall. This will
give the ducks a chance to get settled and to be in good condition and
accustomed to their quarters by spring so that they will begin to breed
and lay.
Eggs for hatching can be purchased if desired and the young ducklings
hatched and reared with chicken hens. Baby ducks are rarely purchased in
making a start as are baby chicks.
_Selecting the Breed._ Any one of the breeds forming the so-called meat
class will prove satisfactory for a farm flock. This class includes the
Pekin, Aylesbury, Muscovy, Rouen, Cayuga, Buff and Blue Swedish. The
birds of any of these breeds are of good size and therefore produce a
suitable table fowl. At the same time they are layers and will produce
eggs for the table or for market as well. Where the purpose in keeping
the ducks is mainly that of producing eggs for market the Runner is
undoubtedly the breed to select. While these ducks are smaller in size
the ducklings will make good carcasses of broiler size for the table
being killed for this purpose when about 2-1/2 to 3 pounds in weight. In
addition, the Runner is the best laying breed and by many persons is
considered to be equal in its egg producing qualities to any of the
breeds of chickens.
Selection of any breed or variety of the meat or egg classes and
especially the selection of a breed or variety for ornamental purposes
or for the pleasure of breeding will depend upon the individual
preference of the owner for body shape, color of plumage and other
characteristics. A pure breed of some kind should by all means be kept
in preference to the common or so-called "puddle" duck. Not only will
the pure breeds give greater uniformity in the carcasses produced but
the results in egg production will likewise be better.
_Age of Breeding Stock._ The best results in breeding are secured from
ducks during their first laying season. Not only is egg production
better but they are less likely to become so fat and large as to
interfere with the fertility and hatchability of the eggs. In fact, on
commercial duck farms the breeding stock is entirely renewed each year.
However, ducks can be profitably kept until they are 2 or 3 years old,
and it is common practice in a farm flock to hold over some of the
breeders after they have finished their first year. Of course, where the
duck breeder has some especially fine stock which will produce just the
quality he desires in the offspring, he holds and utilizes these birds
just as long as they are in good breeding condition. As a rule it is
best not to hold breeding ducks after they have finished their second
laying season.
_Size of Matings._ The proper number of ducks which should be mated to a
drake varies with the different breeds. Pekins and Aylesbury can be
mated in the proportion of one drake to 6 to 8 ducks. In the Rouen mate
4 or 5 ducks to a drake and in the Cayuga 5 or 6 ducks to a drake. In
the Muscovy as high as 10 females may be mated with one male. In the
Blue Swedish and Buff mate in the proportion of 6 or 7 ducks to one
drake. In the Call and East India breeds from 5 to 8 ducks can be mated
to one drake. In the Crested White use 5 or 6 ducks and in the Runner
6 to 8 ducks to a drake.
Where young drakes are used more ducks can be mated to them than is the
case with old drakes. It is also true that where especially large
exhibition birds have been reserved for breeding purposes it is
necessary to reduce the number of ducks mated to a drake as otherwise
the fertility is very likely to run lower with these older heavier
ducks.
_Breeding and Laying Season._ Under ordinary farm conditions where the
ducks receive only fairly good care and feed the laying does not begin
to any extent until February or March. With exceptional care the ducks
will begin to lay in January and a few may even lay in December. The
ducks lay very persistently and continue their laying until hot weather
sets in or usually about the first of July. They gradually let up in
their laying until it ceases almost entirely soon after that date. The
breeding season is at its height in the months of April and May. At this
time the fertility will run best and the results in hatching will be
most satisfactory. However, it is possible to continue to hatch the duck
eggs which are produced with fair results as long as the ducks continue
to lay.
Management of Breeders.
_Housing._ Some sort of house or shelter must be provided for the
breeding flock. Any available shed or a part of the poultry house may
be utilized for this purpose. No special requirements are necessary
except that the house should provide sufficient ventilation. This is
best furnished by means of a window and in addition, an opening in the
front of the house should be provided which can be closed by means of a
curtain during severe winter weather. A board floor is not necessary if
the dirt floor is filled up 6 or 8 inches above the ground level outside
the house. The floors should be provided with an abundance of litter
which is usually changed only once or twice during the year. As the
litter tends to become dirty more litter must be added. No equipment is
necessary in the houses as the birds rest on the floor and lay their
eggs anywhere about the house or wherever they may make their nests. The
house should be so arranged that the ducks can be shut in at night and
can be kept there until they have finished laying in the morning. As
most of the duck eggs are laid early in the morning they can be let out
by 8 or 9 o'clock in the summer. If let out earlier than this they are
likely to lay some of their eggs in the pond or stream to which they
have access and these would be lost.
_Feeding._ On many farms the breeding flock of ducks is fed on the same
ration which is given the farm fowls. However, better results will be
obtained if they are given special feeds. After the laying season is
over the breeding ducks can be fed sparingly on a mash consisting of one
part by weight corn meal, 2 parts bran, 1 part low grade wheat flour, 1
part green feed, 8% beef scrap and 3% oyster shell. This mash is mixed
up with water until it has a consistency just between sticky and
crumbly. It should never be fed in a sloppy condition. A feed of this
mash should be given in the morning and at night and during the long
days of summer it is well also to give a light feed of cracked corn or
mixed grains in the middle of the day. However, judgment must be used in
feeding ducks especially if they have range over which they can roam
where they can pick up more or less animal feed and other material. In
this case it is not necessary to feed nearly so much. Another mash which
may be used instead of the one given consists of 3 parts by measure of
corn meal, 4 parts bran, 2 parts low grade wheat flour, three-fourths
part beef scrap and 2 parts green feed with a supply of oyster shell.
Along about December 1 the feed should be changed with the idea of
inducing egg production. A feed consisting of one part by weight corn
meal, 1 part low grade flour or middlings, 1 part bran, 15% beef scrap,
15% vegetables or green feed together with oyster shell should be fed
morning and evening and in addition a feed consisting of corn and wheat
may be given at noon in a quantity of about one quart for each 30 ducks.
As much mash should be given them at the morning and evening feed as
they will clean up.
Another good mash feed which may be used consists of 2 parts by weight
of bran, 2 parts middlings, 2 parts corn meal, 1 part beef scrap, 1 part
ground oats and one-tenth of the total weight sand. In addition, of
course, green feed must be added to the ration if it is not available at
all times in the yard. This mash is fed in the morning and in the
evening. The noon feed consists of 1 part by weight of corn and 2 parts
oats. Where green feed is not available and must be supplied, cut
clover, alfalfa, rye, oats and corn may be utilized cut up into short
pieces and mixed in the mash. The mash should be fed either to breeding
stock or to ducklings on flat trays or boards rather than in troughs as
the ducks can get at it better in this form. It must be kept in mind
that while ducks are good egg producers during the laying and breeding
season they will not lay any great number of eggs unless they are fed
for this purpose. For rations used on commercial duck farms see Chapter
IV.
_Water._ It is important that a plentiful supply of drinking water be
available to the ducks. A fresh supply must be provided at each feeding
time before the feed is thrown to the ducks as they like to eat and
drink alternately when feeding. Where the breeding ducks have access to
a stream or pond of fresh water it is not necessary to provide any other
supply of drinking water.
Where water is available in which the ducks can swim it is essential to
see that provision is made so that the ducks can get in and out of the
water easily. If this is not done they may become exhausted and unable
to climb out or they may become partially cramped when the water is very
cold with the result that they will drown. If given access to water in
which they can swim during cold weather it is necessary to be on the
look-out to see that the ducks do not freeze fast to the ground when
they come out of the water.
_Yards._ Where yards are provided for ducks poultry netting about 2 feet
high is ordinarily used. This will confine most of the breeds but higher
fences even 5 or 6 feet high must be provided for the breeds which fly
readily such as the Muscovy, Call, East India, Mallard, Wood and
Mandarin. In some cases it is even necessary to cover over the tops of
the yards in order to keep the birds from flying out or to pinion the
birds, that is, to cut off the outermost joint of one wing. The netting
used for yards should be strung on posts set in the ground and the lower
edge should be pegged down so that the birds cannot get under it.
_Care of Eggs for Hatching._ Duck eggs for hatching must be gathered
each day and should be put in some cool place to be held until they are
set. They should be turned daily, the same as hens' eggs and the general
care is exactly similar. It does not, however, pay to keep duck eggs as
long before setting them as they spoil more quickly than hens' eggs. In
fact, it is best to set duck eggs when they are not over a week old if
this can be arranged.
_Hatching the Eggs._ The period of incubation for duck eggs ranges from
26 to 28 days for all of the breeds except the Muscovy. In this breed it
takes from 33 to 36 days for the eggs to hatch. Inasmuch as most of the
commonly kept breeds are not very broody and therefore do not make
reliable hatchers and mothers it is necessary to resort either to the
use of chicken hens for this purpose or else to utilize incubators.
Either one of these methods can be used with good success. With the
small farm flock it is very common to utilize hens. The ordinary hen
will be able to cover 9 to 11 duck eggs to advantage depending on her
size and upon the season of the year. In cold weather the smaller number
should be used rather than the larger number. Before setting the hen she
should be thoroughly dusted with insect powder to free her from lice.
Several hens can be set in the same room but they should be confined on
their nests allowing them to come off only once a day for feed and
water. Cracked corn makes an excellent feed for sitting hens. If desired
Muscovy, Call, East India, Mallard, Wood or Mandarin ducks can be
allowed to make their nests and to hatch their eggs as they are reliable
sitters and good mothers.
After the duck eggs first pip there usually elapses a longer period of
time before the ducklings get out of the shell than is the case with
chicks. For this reason it is well to take the hens off for feed and
water when the first eggs are pipped returning them to the nest as
quickly as possible and confining them there until the hatch is over.
During the last week of incubation it is desirable to sprinkle the eggs
daily with water using quite a liberal amount as duck eggs seem to
require more moisture than hens' eggs in order to hatch well.
All duck eggs which are at all badly soiled should be washed before they
are set. Washing does not seem to injure their hatching qualities. In
fact, some breeders prefer to wash all duck eggs whether dirty or not,
feeling that this opens up the pores and causes a better hatch. This
belief is based upon the idea that when ducks hatch their own eggs under
natural conditions they have access to water in which they swim and in
coming back on the nest their wet feathers serve to wash the eggs.
Where an incubator is used for hatching the eggs are placed in the
machine just as hens' eggs. For the first week the temperature is kept
about 102 degrees and for the rest of the period is maintained as close
to 103 degrees as possible, the bulb of the thermometer being on a level
with the tops of the eggs. Often the temperature will run up a little
higher than this at hatching time but this does not do any harm. An
incubator will accommodate from four-fifths to five-sixths as many duck
eggs as it will hens' eggs.
About the fifth or sixth day the duck eggs are tested and all infertile
and dead germs removed. From this time on eggs are turned twice a day
and usually cooled once a day until they pip. A second test may be made
about the fifteenth or sixteenth day when any eggs which have died are
removed. If dead germ eggs are left in the machines they spoil very
quickly and cause a strong odor which makes it necessary to remove them.
During the last week or ten days and in some cases for a longer period
than this incubator operators supply moisture daily to the machine. This
is usually provided by sprinkling the eggs liberally with water which
has been warmed to about the temperature of the machine. However, if
warm water is not available, water of ordinary temperature may be used
although it is not well to use extremely cold water. As a rule the eggs
begin to pip about the twenty-sixth day. At this time the machine should
be tightly closed up and left so until the hatching is over. In case
moisture seems to be lacking and the ducklings are having a hard time to
get out of the shell the machine can be opened and the eggs sprinkled
again. If there seems to be sufficient moisture, however, the machines
should not be opened or disturbed. As a rule it takes ducklings from 24
to 48 hours to hatch after the pipping first begins. It is advisable to
leave the ducklings in the incubator until they are well dried off
before removing them to the brooder. As a rule the hatching will be
entirely over by the twenty-eighth day.
_Brooding and Rearing._ Ducklings can be brooded if desired by means of
chicken hens. In this case the ducklings which the hen hatches should
be given to her and she should be confined to some kind of a coop which
will allow the ducklings to run at liberty. If the hen is given her
liberty she goes too far and takes too much exercise for the little
ducks. Where artificial brooders are used any type of brooding apparatus
can be utilized which is used with success for chickens. It must be
remembered, however, that ducklings do not require as high a degree of
heat as do baby chicks and should be started off at a temperature of
about 90 degrees under the hover. This can be reduced rather rapidly
until it is down to 80 at about 2 weeks of age. The length of time that
the ducklings require heat after this depends upon the season and the
weather. Even in fairly cool weather they do not need any heat after
they are 5 or 6 weeks old.
It is necessary to keep the brooders clean and in order to do this they
must be cleaned out frequently and new litter supplied. While the
ducklings are small the brooders should be cleaned at least every other
day and as they get larger, cleaning once a week with the addition of
fresh litter between times will be sufficient.
_Feeding the Ducklings._ Ducklings do not need to be fed until they are
from 24 to 36 hours old. At this time they may be given a mixture
composed of equal parts by measure of rolled oats and bread crumbs with
3% of sharp sand mixed in the feed. This may be given them five times
daily although some duck raisers feed only 3 times daily from the
start. About the third day this feed is changed to equal parts of bread,
rolled oats, bran and corn meal. After the seventh day the ration may
consist of 3 parts bran, 1 part each of low-grade wheat flour and corn
meal, 10% green feed, 5% beef scrap with about 3% of sand mixed in.
The ducklings should be fed four times daily after the seventh day until
they are two or three weeks old. After that time they need be fed only
three times daily, morning, noon and night. The sand may be given to the
ducklings either by mixing it in the mash or by feeding it in a hopper
where they can help themselves. The mash feed which is prepared for the
ducklings is mixed with water until it has a consistency a little wetter
than crumbly but not exactly sticky. Sloppy feed should never be used.
As the ducklings grow older the amount of beef scrap can be increased
until it consists of 15% of the ration by the end of the third week. The
proportion of corn meal can likewise be increased and simultaneously the
amount of bran decreased until the ducklings are on a fattening ration.
Unless they have a plentiful supply of green feed in the yards to which
they have access it is necessary to provide this to the extent of about
10% of the feed and it should consist of tender green stuff rather
finely chopped and mixed in with the mash.
About 2 weeks before the ducklings are to be marketed they should be put
on a ration consisting of three parts by weight of corn meal, two parts
low-grade flour or middlings, one part bran, one-half part beef scrap,
10% green feed and about 3% oyster shell or sand. This mash is fed three
times daily. Another ration which can be used for fattening purposes
consists of 3 parts corn meal, 1 part low-grade wheat flour, 1 part
bran, 5% beef scrap and 3% oyster shell with green feed and grit in
addition.
Where fish is available it can be substituted for the beef scrap but on
most farms this is impractical. The fish where fed is boiled and mixed
in the mash. However, no fish should be fed up to within 2 weeks before
the ducks are killed as there is danger of giving a fishy taste to the
carcass. For additional information as to feeding methods used on
commercial duck farms which could be utilized to advantage for the farm
flocks, see Chapter VI.
Birds which are to be reserved for breeders should be selected out and
taken away from the ducklings which are to be fattened. These breeding
birds should be carried along on the ration which they have been
receiving until about December 1 when they should be put on a laying
ration.
It is very necessary to see that the ducklings have a plentiful supply
of drinking water. It is especially important to renew this supply just
before the ducklings are fed so that they will have ample water while
they are consuming their feed. The water should be given in dishes deep
enough so that the ducks can immerse their entire bill as this enables
them to wash the sand out of their nostrils.
_Water for Ducklings._ In addition to the drinking water provided duck
raisers sometimes allow the growing ducklings access to water in which
they can swim. If it is desired to fatten the ducklings quickly and turn
them off on the market as green ducks many raisers do not consider this
advisable as it induces the ducklings to take more exercise and makes it
more difficult to fatten them. However, access to water in which they
can swim makes it unnecessary to provide any other supply of drinking
water and for this reason lessens the work considerably. Unless it is
easy for the ducklings to get in and out of the water there is danger of
some of them drowning as they are likely to get tired and unable to
climb out. Little ducklings allowed access to very cold water are
subject to cramp and may be drowned as a result.
_Distinguishing the Sexes._ It is difficult to distinguish the sexes of
growing ducks until they begin to reach maturity. There is, however, a
difference in their appearance. The drakes are coarser or thicker and
more masculine in appearance showing this especially about the head and
neck. Also as they secure their mature plumage the drake shows curled
feathers on top of the tail which are often referred to as sex feathers.
In addition, the voice of the duck is harsher and coarser than that of
the drake.
_Marketing the Ducks._ Most of the ducks produced on farms are marketed
alive. This is because the farmer has no special market and he does not
find that it pays him to dress and ship the ducks with the chance that
they might spoil. In fact, most of the farm raised ducks are not turned
off as green ducks at 10 to 12 weeks as is done on the commercial duck
plants but are held until fall and then sold as spring ducks. They will
weigh somewhat more at that time but as a rule the price received per
pound will be lower than that obtained for green ducks during the spring
and summer. Where there is a special demand for ducklings which the
farmer can supply it will pay him to dress and deliver the ducks. If it
is desired to dress the ducks, the directions given under Chapter VII
can be modified to suit the farmer's needs. The soft body feathers
should be saved in accordance with the directions given on page 106, as
they can be used at home in making pillows or can be sold.
Such eggs as are produced in surplus may either be utilized on the home
table or sent to market. As a rule duck eggs are not in great demand
except at certain seasons such as at Easter and during the Jewish
holidays in the spring and fall when they bring somewhat higher prices
than hens' eggs. The larger size of duck eggs, however, makes them
favored by bakers and they can usually be sold at any time in a city of
any size at prices as good as those received for hens' eggs.
Eggs for market can be packed in the ordinary 30-dozen hen egg cases by
using special fillers which hold 25 eggs instead of 36 as in the case of
hens' eggs. See page 119. A farmer with a small flock of ducks will
usually not have eggs enough to fill a case frequently and for this
reason he usually finds it more convenient to market the few eggs he has
by taking them into town in a basket.
_Disease and Insect Pests._ Ducks are very little troubled by insect
pests, nor are they greatly troubled by diseases. The usual difficulties
encountered along this line are those discussed under this head in
Chapter VI. Losses are often experienced as the result of predatory
animals. Rats will cause a great amount of havoc among the young ducks
if they are able to get at them. A single night's work on the part of
one rat may practically clean out a small flock of ducklings. It is
necessary to make sure that the ducklings are shut in at night so that
rats cannot get at them.
GEESE
PART II.
CHAPTER IX
Extent of the Industry--Opportunities
Geese can be raised successfully in practically all parts of the United
States and are in fact scattered in small flocks over a considerable
portion of the country being most abundant in the South and in the
Middle West.
The census figures for the year 1920 show Illinois with 195,769 geese to
be the leading state in numbers, closely followed by Missouri, Arkansas
and Iowa. Next in order of importance as goose raising states come
Kentucky, Tennessee, Minnesota, North Carolina and Texas. The census
figures of 1920 compared with those for 1910 show a decrease in the
number of geese from 4,431,980 to 2,939,203. The only groups of states
which showed an increase in the number of geese during this period were
the North Atlantic and the Mountain states. Of the total farms in the
United States only a small proportion, probably one-tenth, have any
geese and the number of geese per farm would not average over 4 to 10
depending on the section.
_Nature of the Industry._ Geese are kept almost wholly in small flocks
as a side line on general farms. The purpose of goose raising is
primarily one of the production of meat although in the past flocks of
geese have been kept to some extent, particularly in the south for the
purpose of plucking them to secure the feathers. This practice of
plucking live geese is decreasing and is much less common than formerly.
The eggs of the geese do not enter to any extent into the egg trade of
the country. As a rule all the eggs produced are hatched for the purpose
of rearing young geese and it is only occasionally that goose eggs are
used for culinary purposes.
_Opportunities for Goose Raising._ Undoubtedly the greatest opportunity
along the line of goose raising lies in the small flock kept on the
general farm. Where conditions are suitable, that is to say, where there
is an abundance of suitable pasture land together with some water to
which the geese can have access, a small flock can be most profitably
kept. They can be reared very cheaply as both the young and old geese
will secure practically their entire living during the summer from
pasture if an abundant supply of suitable green material is available.
The cost of rearing them therefore is low. In addition both the young
and old geese are very hardy and require comparatively little care. They
are little subject to disease and therefore losses are small.
Geese live and breed for a long time and this makes it possible to turn
off to market a larger proportion of the young stock reared than is the
case with most other classes of poultry. For all of these reasons,
therefore, a small flock of geese will return a good profit to the
farmer without having to supply any great amount of equipment or without
having to feed very much in the way of expensive feeds. In addition to
the geese which can be marketed, the maintenance of a small flock also
helps to provide a variety in the farmer's diet by furnishing suitable
birds for the holiday seasons such as Thanksgiving and Christmas.
In addition to the opportunity for goose raising in small flocks on
general farms there likewise exists a definite opportunity to specialize
along this line somewhat more extensively. In certain places, notably
the state of Wisconsin, goose raising becomes a more important activity
on some farms than merely that of a by-product. Larger numbers are
reared and special steps are taken in fattening and finishing them for
market either by means of pen fattening or by means of hand fattening or
noodling the geese. Geese so finished for market bring a special price
and allow a good profit to the raiser for the time which he has put into
them.
An outgrowth of the goose raising industry which has been worked to a
limited extent consists of the gathering together of the geese raised in
any particular portion of the country on one farm and the feeding of
them there in large flocks in the fields so as to fatten them for
market. There are not many of these special fattening farms but several
persons in different sections of the country who have made a practice
of gathering together and marketing the geese in this way have found it
very profitable. Probably a similar opportunity exists in certain other
sections where goose raising on the farms in small numbers is common and
where no one has yet made the effort to collect and fatten the geese
before marketing them.
While geese are not exhibited to the same extent as chickens, still
there will always be found a market for birds of good quality, both for
the purpose of exhibition and also as breeders to be used in improving
the stock of other goose raisers.
_Goose Raising as a Business for Farm Women._ Like turkey raising goose
raising as a side line on the farm offers an excellent money making
opportunity for the farm women. Without any great outlay of capital to
get a start and without its being necessary to provide much in the way
of buildings or other equipment, a flock of geese can be started which
will allow a nice profit to the farm woman for the care and attention
which she gives them. In this connection it should be remembered that
while the opportunities for profit may not be so large as in turkey
raising, yet the care required is much less and the chances of serious
difficulties due to disease and to inability to raise the young stock
are relatively small. Goose raising therefore offers a most profitable
side line employment for the farm woman.
_Geese as Weed Destroyers._ As stated before geese are close grazers. In
fact, during the growing season of the year green vegetation forms most
and in some cases practically all of their diet. The vegetation which
they will eat readily is quite varied and in many cases geese will be
found to be very valuable in ridding pastures or fields of troublesome
weeds. In the southern states geese are often kept on farms where cotton
is raised for the purpose of keeping the cotton fields free from weeds.
Objection to Geese
An objection to geese often expressed but without good foundation is
that they will spoil the pasture for other stock. This is not true if
the pasture is not overstocked with geese. Of course geese are very
close grazers and if too many of them are kept on a field they will eat
the grass down so close that there will be none for other animals to
get. Similarly the idea that other animals will not eat grass grown
where goose droppings have fallen is not true except where the birds are
too thick so that the grass is soiled badly by the droppings.
The fact that geese are noisy creatures makes them undesirable to some
persons. It is true that they make a good deal of noise and that their
cry is of a very hoarse, rasping character and to a person with bad
nerves they may be annoying but this is no valid or weighty objection to
the normal, healthy farmer. The Chinese geese are the noisiest and
consequently the greatest offenders in this particular.
A more valid objection to geese lies in the fact of their rather ugly
disposition. Ganders, especially as they grow older and during the
breeding season, are decidedly pugnacious and will not hesitate to
attack human beings. They strike heavy formidable blows with their wings
and with their strong bills they inflict most painful bites. Where there
are children about the house it may be necessary to dispose of ugly
ganders to safeguard the children from serious injury.
CHAPTER X
Breeds and Varieties--How to Mate to Produce Exhibition
Specimens--Preparing Geese for the Show--Catching and Handling
_Breeds of Geese._ There are six standard breeds of geese consisting of
the following: Toulouse, Embden, African, Chinese, Wild or Canadian and
Egyptian. All of these breeds consist of a single variety with the
exception of the Chinese which is composed of two. The Toulouse is known
as the Gray Toulouse, the Embden as the White Embden, the African as the
Gray African, the two varieties of the Chinese as the Brown Chinese and
the White Chinese, the Wild or Canadian as the Gray and the Egyptian as
the Colored.
The first four of these breeds are the ones which are commonly kept in
domestication. In a general way it may be said that these breeds are
meat breeds for the reason that they are kept mainly for the production
of meat. The Wild or Canadian and the Egyptian are more in the nature of
ornamental breeds since they are not so commonly kept and are
principally to be found where ornamental water-fowls are maintained. The
Chinese are sometimes classed as ornamental geese on account of their
smaller size but they are much more commonly kept than either the
Canadian or the Egyptian and make a good market fowl where the demand is
not for such a large carcass.
In addition to the standard breeds there are several other rare breeds
among which is the Sebastapol which is kept purely as an ornamental
breed by reason of its peculiar feathering. The Sebastapol is a white
goose in which the feathers of the upper part of the body show a twisted
or frizzled condition which gives it much the general effect of the
feathers being curled. In addition to the standard breeds of geese there
are kept on a great majority of farms ordinary common geese of no
definite breed or variety. These geese in general are of smaller size
than the larger standard breeds and have probably arisen as the result
of the crossing of the standard breeds and the subsequent deterioration
in size and color marking is due to careless breeding and selection.
In some sections and for certain special purposes definite crosses of
standard breeds are made for the production of table geese having
certain desired qualities. For this purpose the African ganders are very
popular used upon the Toulouse geese. To some extent there is produced
and marketed a goose known as the mongrel goose. This has excellent
table quality and is in good demand on account of its superior eating
qualities and its rapid growth. It is produced by using the Wild or
Canadian gander upon Toulouse, African or Embden geese. The result of
this cross is a hybrid goose which has much the appearance of the Wild
goose but which will not breed although the females will lay eggs. As a
rule Toulouse or African females are used for the cross rather than
Embden as from the latter there is a greater tendency to get a lighter
cross which would not resemble its Wild father so closely and might not
therefore be so readily recognized as genuine mongrel geese.
_Nomenclature._ The term geese is used to indicate the birds of both
sexes taken as a whole and also as a plural form for the word goose. The
term goose is used to distinguish the female of the species. The male is
given the specific name of gander to distinguish it from goose. The
young of both sexes are termed goslings. In giving the standard weights
for the different breeds of geese the birds are classified as adult
ganders and young ganders and as adult geese and young geese. By adult
goose or gander is meant a bird which is over one year old, by young
goose or gander is meant a bird which is less than one year. Not
infrequently in connection with market reports use will be made of the
term "green geese". This indicates birds which are marketed when they
are of large size but still young and immature, the green referring to
this immature condition.
_Size._ An idea of the size of the different standard breeds of geese
can best be secured by giving the standard weights. They are as
follows:
Breed Adult Adult Young Young
Gander Goose Gander Goose
Toulouse 26 lbs. 20 lbs. 20 lbs. 16 lbs.
Embden 20 " 18 " 18 " 16 "
African 20 " 18 " 16 " 14 "
Chinese 12 " 10 " 10 " 8 "
Wild or Canadian 12 " 10 " 10 " 8 "
Egyptian 10 " 8 " 8 " 6 "
_Popularity of the Breeds_. Of the different standard breeds kept the
Toulouse is undoubtedly the most popular in this country probably due to
its large size as well as to its quick growth. The Embden follows the
Toulouse closely in popularity. The Chinese geese are probably third
most numerous in numbers while the African ranks fourth. In certain
sections the African seems to be very popular and one would expect to
find more of this breed than seem to be present on farms. Neither the
Canadian nor the Egyptians are to be found in any great numbers, the
latter in particular being very rare.
Egg Production
It must always be remembered in speaking of the egg production of any
breed of poultry that there will be a considerable variation in
individuals within a breed and that egg production will also be affected
very largely by the conditions under which the birds are kept. For this
reason any attempt to give an average egg production for a breed is at
best only an approximation. These approximations often serve, however,
to show some well established contrast between the different breeds with
respect to their egg laying ability. The Toulouse is a fairly prolific
breed of geese and individuals should average from 12 to 36 eggs, the
majority laying about 20 eggs. The Embden is very similar to the
Toulouse in laying ability although probably on the whole not quite so
good a layer. The African is generally considered a good layer and is
said to average from 20 to 40 eggs. Some breeders state that the pure
African are not as good layers as this, being about equal to the Embden
and that the better laying Africans really have some Brown Chinese blood
in them which has been introduced to increase prolificacy. The Chinese
is the most prolific breed. The birds of either the White or Brown
variety should average from 60 to 100 eggs. The eggs laid by the Chinese
are smaller than those of the Toulouse, Embden or African. The Wild or
Canadian and the Egyptian geese are small layers. They rarely lay more
than one sitting during a season and the eggs will as a rule range from
4 to 8 in number.
_Size of Goose Eggs._ Goose eggs are decidedly larger than duck eggs.
There is a considerable variation in size, depending upon the breed. The
eggs of the Toulouse, African and Embden are of about the same size and
will vary from 6-1/2 to 8 ounces each. The eggs of the Chinese are smaller
and will weigh from 5-1/2 to 6 ounces each, while eggs of the Canadian and
Egyptian are the smallest of the standard breeds, running from 5 to 5-1/2
ounces each.
_Color of Goose Eggs._ In general goose eggs are whitish in color but
may shade to a gray or buff tinge. The Wild or Canadian sometimes lay
eggs which are off the white, showing a considerable green tinge.
About Geese and Matings
_Broodiness._ All of the breeds of geese with the exception of the
Toulouse may be classed as broody breeds, that is to say, they will make
their nests and hatch their young if given a chance to do so. Not
infrequently individuals of the Toulouse breed will do this also but as
a rule they are not dependable for this purpose.
_Size of Mating._ In making the mating it is usual in order to secure
best results to use one gander with from two to four geese in the
Toulouse, Embden and African breeds. In fact, better results will be
secured in these breeds where not over 3 geese are used and in many
cases the geese are mated in trios or even in pairs. In the Chinese
geese a somewhat larger mating can be employed, one gander being used
with 4 to 6 geese. The Wild or Canadian and the Egyptian geese in most
cases pair only.
_Age of Breeders._ Geese can be retained and will give good results as
breeders for a longer period than most other classes of poultry. While
the young geese will often lay during their first year the results from
the eggs produced by them are not as a rule very satisfactory. It is
sometimes claimed that the eggs of young geese will not hatch but this
is untrue and goslings have been raised from such eggs. Canadian and
Egyptian geese do not lay until they are 3 years old. Females may be
kept for breeding purposes until they are 8 to 10 years old and should
give good results during this time. If they continue to lay longer than
this and are valuable breeding individuals they should of course be
retained just so long as they lay at a profitable rate. Instances are
reported where geese 15 to 20 years old were still giving good results
as breeders. As a rule ganders cannot be successfully kept for breeding
purposes as long as can the geese. Yearling ganders are often used but
they are at their best for breeding purposes when from 3 to 5 years old
and it is not generally wise to retain them after they are 6 or 7 years
old. Egyptian and Canadian ganders will not breed before they are 2
years old. In general it is good practice to mate young ganders to older
geese and to mate younger geese with older ganders as this seems to get
better results both in fertility and in hatching.
_Marking Young Geese._ It is often desirable to mark young geese in some
way so that their breeding can be told or so that a record can be kept
of their age. This can be readily accomplished by punching various
combinations of holes in the webs between the toes at the time the
goslings are hatched.
_Considerations in Making the Mating._[4] In making the mating in
breeding geese it must be kept in mind that it is of primary importance
to select the breeders first of all for size, prolificacy and vitality.
Without these qualities no matter what else the breeding geese may be
there is scant chance of satisfactory results. Having selected birds
which are of suitable size and vitality those should then be utilized
for breeding which approach most nearly both in type and color to the
requirements as given in the American Standard of Perfection. As a rule,
a new mating can be made by taking the birds selected and shutting them
up together in a pen away from the other birds and out of sound of the
voices of their former mates. As a rule about a month of this treatment
will suffice to bring about the new matings desired and the birds can
then be allowed to range at liberty.
[Footnote 4: For a more detailed description of the principles of
breeding as applied to poultry and which is equally applicable to geese,
the reader is referred to "The Mating and Breeding of Poultry" by Harry
M. Lamon and Rob R. Slocum, published by the Orange Judd Publishing Co.,
New York, N. Y.]
Some ganders are very troublesome about mating. This is particularly
true as they get older. In some cases it is impossible to get ganders to
mate at all while frequently they will refuse to mate with more than one
goose. As a rule, matings once made are permanent from year to year
unless changed by the breeder on account of poor results. Where new
matings are to be made or where changes are to be made this should be
done in the fall so that the birds will have been mated for several
months before the breeding season begins in order to insure good
results. After the matings are made the geese can be allowed to run
together in larger flocks but the practice is frequently employed of
keeping the different matings in pens to themselves so as to avoid the
fighting which will otherwise occur between the ganders. During the
breeding season the ganders are quite savage and will fight fiercely.
Breeds of Geese[5]
_The Toulouse._ This breed is characterized by its very low down deep
broad massive body. The body should come well down in front and should
be so deep and full behind that it tends to drag on the ground when the
bird walks. The skin of the rear portion of the body should have folds.
The appearance or type of the Toulouse depends a great deal upon the
condition of flesh which a bird may be in at the time as a fat well
fleshed condition will improve type very materially. A dewlap, that is
to say, a pendulous flap of skin on the throat, is desired but
comparatively few birds show a well developed dewlap. It is more likely
to appear with age than it is in the younger birds. In color the
Toulouse breeds quite true. The principal difficulty which is
encountered is the occasional appearance of one, two or three white
flight feathers in the wing. These white flights constitute a
disqualification and must of course be avoided in the breeding. It is
necessary also to avoid any birds which lack in size, length, breadth or
depth of body, particularly depth in front. Birds of this breed are of
large size and make quick growth and for this reason are a fine market
goose although the dark colored pin feathers are somewhat of a drawback
from a market point of view.
[Footnote 5: For a complete and official description and list of
disqualifications of the standard breeds and varieties of geese, the
reader is referred to the American Standard of Perfection published by
the American Poultry Association, obtainable from Orange Judd Publishing
Company, New York, N. Y.]
_The Embden._ This breed is of good size but somewhat smaller than the
Toulouse. It has not quite so long a keel or underline as the Toulouse
and while deep in body it is not so baggy. There should be no dewlap in
this breed. The plumage should be pure white throughout, the only
difficulty of any importance occurring here being the occasional
appearance of slate on the backs of young geese. This, however, is not
serious as it almost invariably disappears with the first moult. Embden
geese are rapid growers and mature early which together with the fact
that their plumage is white makes them an excellent market bird.
_The African._ In type the African is much the same as the Toulouse
although not quite as large being about the size of the Embden. What is
desired is a low down body which is flat in keel and without any folds
of skin. The neck should be short. This bird unlike the Toulouse is
characterized by a knob or protuberance extending out from the head at
the base of the upper bill. This knob should be black in color and
should show no tinge of yellow on the top or about the base. If the knob
gets scarred or injured it is apt to turn yellow and freezing likewise
is apt to cause it to turn yellow. Birds of this breed both young and
old should show dewlaps, the absence of these in adult specimens
constituting a disqualification. As in the Toulouse avoid any white
flight feathers. The African makes an excellent market goose being like
the Embden and Toulouse, quick growing and early maturing. The ganders
are especially in favor for use in crossing with other varieties for the
production of market geese. It seems probable that some Brown Chinese
blood has been crossed into the Africans on various occasions probably
for the purpose of increasing the prolificacy of the African as the
Brown Chinese is an excellent layer. It is also true that crosses
between the Brown Chinese and the Toulouse are sometimes shown for
Africans but as a rule this cross results in too dark a bird and such
crosses should never be used for breeding purposes since they would not
continue to give the uniformity and other qualities obtained in the
first generation.
_The Chinese._ The Chinese is quite different in type from the three
preceding breeds. It is much smaller and higher set on legs and has a
body much more upright in carriage. The neck is long and slender and the
head has a large knob. An important part about the type is to secure a
very slender neck, another important point being to secure a very large
knob; the larger this is the better. There is, however, a decided
tendency for the knob to run small when the neck is slender and it is
difficult to secure in perfection the combination of a very slender neck
and a large knob. The Chinese geese should be in good condition but
should not be too fat when shown as too good a condition of flesh
injures the type materially. If fat there is a decided tendency for the
birds to bag down behind which is undesirable. The Chinese geese are the
best layers but the egg which they lay is smaller. On account of their
smaller size they do not make as good market geese where large sized
carcasses are desired but where smaller carcasses suitable for family
use are in demand the Chinese make a satisfactory market breed.
_The Brown Chinese._ In this variety the knob should be dark brown or
black. As in the African, injury or freezing may turn the knob yellow
which is undesirable. The plumage should be a rich brown shade of color,
a faded gray color being very undesirable. The stripe down the back of
the neck should be well defined and should be distinctly in contrast
with the rest of the neck color. White feathers in the primaries or
secondaries must be avoided.
_The White Chinese._ The knob in this variety should be orange and any
tendency toward yellow should be avoided. The plumage should be pure
white throughout. Occasional young females may show slate in the back
but this is not serious as it almost invariably disappears with the
first moult.
_The Wild or Canadian._ Contrary to expectation this breed when
domesticated is very peaceable and very tame. There is often, however, a
tendency for them to grow uneasy when the migratory season comes. To
keep the birds from flying away it is necessary to clip the flight
feathers of one wing or what is safer still to pinion the bird.
Pinioning consists of cutting off the first joint of one wing. This may
be done when the birds are small or may be done at any time and does not
seem to bother them much. One of the best ways to accomplish this is to
break the joint and then cut it off by using a chisel and hammer. Not
much bleeding will result but it is well to put a little iodine on the
cut. These birds breed very true in type and color and progress in the
mating simply consists of continuing to select those birds for breeders
which show markings in the greatest excellence. In type a Canadian goose
is quite different from that of the other breeds mentioned. It is
smaller, set much higher on legs and its body is neater and trimmer, and
is oblong and carried in a horizontal position. The neck is long and
slender. These birds mate only in pairs as a rule and the females do not
mature and lay until they are three years old. The ganders often breed
when they are two years old. Usually only a single sitting of eggs is
laid consisting of from 4 to 8. Usually, however, all of these eggs will
hatch and the young prove to be strong and easily reared.
_The Egyptian._ This is the smallest of the standard breeds of geese. In
type it more nearly approaches the Canadian than any other breed but it
is somewhat longer in legs, showing more of the thigh beneath the body.
The body is not carried in quite such a horizontal position as the
Canadian but slopes downward slightly from the breast to the tail. The
neck is neither so long nor quite so slender as that of the Canadian.
This breed is the brightest colored of any of the geese and breeds
fairly true in color and markings. Like the Canadian the Egyptian goose
is likely to become uneasy at times and one wing should therefore be
pinioned or the flight feathers clipped to keep the birds from flying
away. Like the Canadian the Egyptians mate in pairs only and lay but one
sitting during the year. The females do not lay until they are three
years old.
Neither the Egyptian nor the Canadian geese should be closely confined
or no eggs will be laid. The goose should be allowed to make her own
nest and hatch her eggs.
[Illustration: FIG. 50. Left--Egyptian Gander. Right--Sebastapol Goose.
(_Photograph from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of
Agriculture._)]
[Illustration: FIG. 51. Left.--Toulouse Gander. Right--Embden Gander.
(_Photographs from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Department of
Agriculture._)]
[Illustration: FIG. 52. Left--Wild or Canadian Gander. Right--African
Gander. (_Photographs from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S.
Department of Agriculture._)]
[Illustration: FIG. 53. Left--Brown Chinese Gander. Right--White Chinese
Gander. (_Photographs from the Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S.
Department of Agriculture._)]
Preparing Geese for the Show
The preparation of geese for the show is comparatively a simple matter.
It requires first of all that individuals shall be selected which
approach nearest to the standard requirements both in type and in color.
As to the actual preparation for exhibition the geese are practically
self-prepared. For a period of at least a week or ten days before they
are shipped to the show they should be given access to a grass range and
to running water. The grass range tends to put them in good condition
while the running water will give them an opportunity to clean
themselves. Any broken feathers should be plucked at least six weeks
before the birds are to be shown so as to give them an opportunity to
grow in new ones.
Since all of the common breeds of geese, with the exception of the
Chinese, should be shown in a fat condition in order to give them their
best type they should be given a grain mixture twice daily for a period
of at least ten days before the show in order to get them in good flesh
and to bring them up to standard weight. This ration should consist of
one part corn and two parts oats. In Chinese geese where it is desired
to have them in good condition of flesh but without showing any tendency
toward bagginess, oats alone should be fed as they are apt to put on too
much fat when corn is fed as well. When the birds are shipped to the
show they are quite likely to get their plumage soiled during the
journey. If this occurs fill a barrel about half full of water. As the
geese are taken from the shipping coops place two of them at a time in
the barrel, cover it over and leave them for a few minutes. Then take
them out and they will usually be clean.
Catching and Handling Geese
Never catch geese by the legs which are weak and are easily broken or
injured. For the same reason they should never be carried by the legs.
In catching geese grasp them by the neck just below the head. Often a
crooked stick is of value in getting hold of the birds by the neck.
Geese can be carried short distances by the neck without injury but it
is not advisable to carry them for any considerable distance in this
manner, particularly if they are fat. The best way to handle the geese
is to catch them by the neck, then place one arm over the shoulders and
around the bird's body thus holding the wings in place while both legs
are grasped with the hand. The neck should be held with the other hand
to keep the bird from biting. In releasing the bird in a pen or shipping
coop do not let go of the neck until the bird is placed where it is
wanted.
[Illustration: FIG. 54--Proper manner of picking up and carrying geese
with the head and neck under the arm. (_Photographs from the Bureau of
Animal Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture._)]
Packing and Shipping Hatching Eggs
Goose eggs for hatching must be shipped when they are fresh if they are
to be received in good condition and are to give good results in
hatching. They can be shipped long distances either by express or by
parcel post. In order to prevent breakage and to lessen the effects of
the jar to which the eggs are subjected during shipment they should be
carefully packed in a market basket or other suitable receptacle. The
same method of packing the eggs should be employed as with duck eggs
described on page 137.
Prices for Breeding Stock
While the demand for breeding stock is not so broad with geese as it is
with some other classes of poultry, there does exist a steady and
profitable demand for this class of fowls. Goose eggs for hatching are
usually sold in sittings of 5 and the price varies somewhat depending
upon the variety. As a rule, Embden and Toulouse eggs will bring from 60
cents to $1.20 each. Chinese goose eggs will bring from 40 cents to $1
each while the eggs of the African goose will bring from $1 to $2 each.
Of course the price of eggs for hatching like that of breeding birds
depends on the quality of the stock. The prices for the birds themselves
for breeding purposes will run anywhere from about $8 to $10 apiece for
good birds suitable for breeding on farm flocks, to $25 or even $50 each
of birds of especially fine quality.
CHAPTER XI
Management of Breeding Geese
_Range for Breeders._ Since grass or other vegetation, when plentiful,
will furnish practically the entire living both for breeding and growing
geese, it is by all means desirable to have suitable range for the
breeding stock. Aside from economy of production range is desirable from
the fact that the breeders keep in better condition and better results
in breeding and fertility are obtained. The range for breeding geese
should therefore consist of grass land or pasture. Often rather low wet
land can be used for this purpose, particularly if some higher land is
also available to provide a more favorable kind of grass. Often geese
can be ranged on the same pasture with horses or cattle. Later in the
season after the harvest, both breeding and growing geese can be given
the range of the stubble fields to good advantage as they will glean
most of the shelled grain. The entire flock of breeders is generally
allowed to run together but the flock may be divided if desired, or each
mating may be kept in a colony by itself if the fighting of the ganders
proves troublesome.
_Number of Geese to the Acre._ The number of geese which can be kept or
run to the acre depends of course upon the nature of the land available
for the purpose. The better the pasture and therefore the more green
feed available throughout the summer and fall, the more geese can be
run. In general, the practice is to run from 4 to 25 geese to an acre;
ten is a fair average under normal conditions.
_Water for Breeding Geese._ While water to which the geese can have
access for swimming is not absolutely essential for their well being,
they like it and it is well to provide water if possible especially
during the breeding season. It not only takes care of the problem of
supplying drinking water, but in the opinion of many goose raisers,
increases the fertility of the eggs laid. A natural water supply such as
a stream or pond in the pasture is therefore desirable, but if none is
available an artificial pond or tank can be furnished to good advantage.
_Distinguishing the Sex._ It is difficult to distinguish the sex of
geese. It is, of course, necessary to know the sex so as to provide the
proper number of ganders and so as to know what birds to pen together in
making a mating. Once the sex of a bird is determined it is well for the
novice to mark it by means of a suitable leg band so that its sex can be
easily distinguished in the future.
It is more difficult to distinguish the sex of young than of old geese.
The gander is generally slightly larger and coarser than the goose, with
a longer, thicker neck and larger head. The gander also has a shriller
cry than the goose whose cry consists of a harsher sound. Some goose
raisers claim that they can distinguish the sex of mature geese by the
body shape, the underline of the body of the gander from the tail to the
point where the legs join the body being nearly straight, while in the
goose this line tends to round out with the fuller development of the
abdomen. This difference is more marked during the laying season than at
other times. Considerable experience is necessary in order to
distinguish sex by any of the means described and the really sure way is
by an examination of the sexual organs or by observing the actions of
the geese when mating.
Upon examination the sphincter muscle which closes the anus of the
female when stretched will be found to have a folded appearance. If the
gander is placed upon his back and pressure applied around the anus, the
penis will protrude. This test is more easily made on a mature than on
an immature gander and is also easier to make during warm than during
cold weather.
_Purchase of Breeding Stock._ Geese when mated usually stay mated
permanently. Matings are not, therefore, changed from year to year as a
rule so long as they continue to give satisfactory results. If it
becomes necessary to make new matings or to break up old matings, this
should be done in the fall, so that the birds will be thoroughly used to
the new order of things by the time the breeding season arrives, and
the results in eggs laid and young stock grown will not, therefore, be
adversely affected. For this reason, any breeding stock purchased should
be secured in the fall rather than to wait until just before the
breeding season opens. As a rule, also, a better selection of breeding
stock to choose from is available to the purchaser in the fall.
_Time of Laying._ Geese start laying in the early spring and continue to
lay throughout the spring. With special attention given to the feeding,
they should begin in the northeastern part of the United States about
February 1 and should continue to lay until about June 1 when geese of
the heavier breeds such as the Toulouse, African and Embden will
generally be pretty well through. Some individuals will lay later than
this and the Chinese geese also have a rather longer laying season
extending further into the summer. The length of the laying season is
also affected by whether the geese are broken up when they become broody
or whether they are allowed to sit. The latter practice, of course,
stops the layings. It must be remembered that the Canadian and Egyptian
as a rule lay only a single small setting of eggs during the season.
As a rule geese lay during the night or the forenoon. The frequency of
laying varies, some geese laying every other day while others lay more
or less often.
_Housing._ Geese withstand the weather very well and do not need much in
the way of houses or shelter except during winter and during severe
storms. In the North it is the usual practice and good practice to
provide shelter for the geese, which may take the form of a poultry
house, or of any shed or barn available for the purpose. A shed with
openings on the south side makes an ideal goose shelter or house. Most
breeders in the South who give their flocks good attention also provide
shelter for them during the winter although geese are also successfully
kept in that section without shelter.
The houses provided for the breeders must be kept clean and as dry as
possible. The best way to do this is to bed them liberally with straw,
shavings or some similar material, especially during the winter. As the
bedding becomes soiled, more should be added and the house should be
cleaned out from time to time and fresh litter put in.
No equipment for the houses is necessary. The geese will lay their eggs
in nests which they make on the floor and if plenty of clean bedding is
provided, the eggs will not get badly soiled. Large boxes, barrels, or
similar shelter provided with an abundance of nesting material may be
scattered about the range to provide places in which the geese may make
their nests.
_Yards._ Usually no yards are provided for geese as they are allowed the
range of a pasture or are allowed to roam at liberty about the farm. Any
ordinary woven wire stock fence such as might be used to fence a pasture
will serve to keep the geese confined as well as the other stock. If
for any reason it is desired to confine geese to a yard, the effort
should be made to provide yard enough so that the geese will have a
constant supply of green feed. In a small yard this is impossible. A 2-1/2
or 3 foot fence is high enough to confine any of the common breeds of
geese and will also serve for Canadian and Egyptian geese if they have
been pinioned which should always be done.
_Feeding the Breeding Geese._ While the flock of geese may be allowed to
pick most of their living from a good grass range during the summer and
fall, it is necessary to feed them during the winter. In fact during the
summer it may be necessary to feed them lightly on grain or wet mash if
the pasture gets short. The quantity of feed necessary for this purpose
depends upon the condition of the pasture and must be judged by the
condition of the birds.
During the winter, they must be fed regularly. The feed given them
should consist of both grain and some form of roughage. It is necessary
to be careful not to overfeed so that the geese will become too fat, for
while they should be in good condition of flesh at the beginning of the
breeding season, if they are too fat, poor fertility and poor hatches
will result.
_Feed._ Oats makes the best feed for breeding geese as it is not too
fattening. Corn, wheat or barley fed alone is likely to prove too
fattening but a limited quantity should be fed for variety. The grain
should be fed twice a day throughout the winter and should be given
rather sparingly, depending on roughage to make up the bulk of the feed.
Vegetables, clover or alfalfa hay, chopped corn stover or silage make
good roughage for this purpose. Corn silage is a fine feed if it is not
moldy and does not contain so much corn as to be too fattening.
About three weeks or a month before it is desired to have the geese
commence laying, which should be at such a time that the first goslings
hatched will have good grass pasture, a mash should be added to the feed
to stimulate egg production. This mash is generally fed in the morning
with the vegetables or roughage and may consist of three parts bran or
shorts, one part corn meal and one-fourth part meat scrap. If available
buttermilk or skim milk can be used to mix the mash and replace the meat
scrap. Another mash for this purpose consists of corn meal one-fourth
part, bran two parts, and ground oats one part, mixed up with skim milk
or buttermilk.
Grit and oyster shell should be kept where the geese can help themselves
particularly during the laying season. Drinking water must be available
at all times and if a natural supply is not available, must be given in
drinking fountains or dishes which should be so arranged that the geese
cannot get their feet into the water. When they can get into the
drinking water, they will quickly get it into a filthy condition.
When the geese are running in a field with horses or cattle a small
enclosure should be fenced in to which the geese can gain access by
means of suitable openings but which will keep the other stock out. In
this should be placed the drinking fountain for the geese and in this
enclosure the geese should be fed. Otherwise the cattle or horses will
get most of the feed intended for the geese and in addition, some of the
geese may be stepped on or kicked and injured when the stock crowds
around at feeding time.
CHAPTER XII
Incubation
_Care of Eggs for Hatching._ Since egg production usually begins early
in the spring while the weather is still cold, it is necessary to gather
the eggs at frequent intervals to prevent their freezing or becoming
chilled. Later in the season daily collection will be satisfactory. The
eggs as collected should be kept in a cool place and where the
evaporation of the egg contents will not be too great. If set at fairly
frequent intervals, there will be no difficulty on this score. If they
are to be kept for some time, they may be stored in bran to prevent
evaporation. It is well to mark the eggs as gathered with the date they
are laid so as to overcome the possibility of saving too long any eggs
for hatching.
Some goose raisers think that it is best to wash goose eggs before
setting them. This belief is based on the fact that when a goose makes
her own nest and has access to water in which to swim she comes on the
nest with her feathers wet. It is to simulate this condition that the
eggs are washed. Certainly any dirty eggs should be washed.
_Methods of Incubation._ The most usual methods of hatching goose eggs
are by means of the chicken hen and the goose. Incubators may also be
used but do not as a rule seem to give as good results as they do with
hen or duck eggs. Turkey hens may also be utilized for this purpose but
are not commonly available although they make good mothers. Probably the
most common method of hatching is the use of chicken hens. Next common
is to allow the goose to hatch her own eggs. Goose eggs hatch well under
hens or geese. During the height of the season nearly every fertile egg
should hatch if the breeding geese are managed and fed so that they are
in good condition. Early in the season the eggs may not run as fertile
or hatch as well as later.
_Period of Incubation._ The period of incubation of goose eggs is
approximately 30 days, but may vary from 28 to 33 or occasionally even
35 days.
_Hatching with Chicken Hens._ Chicken hens are used very commonly to
hatch goose eggs both because they give good results and are readily
available and also because it is desirable to take the first eggs laid
by the geese away and not to let them get broody and sit so that they
will lay more eggs. For the latter reason practically all the eggs laid
early in the season are hatched by chicken hens.
The nest can be prepared for the hen either in a suitable place in a
poultry house or in a shed or other building or in a box or barrel on
the ground. As soon as the hen shows that she is ready to sit by staying
on the nest, in which has been placed a nest egg or two, for a couple of
nights in succession, she may be given a sitting of eggs. Four to 6
goose eggs will constitute a sitting for a common hen. The hen should be
confined to the nest being let off only once a day for exercise, feed
and water.
The sitting hen must be given good care, being even more particular in
this respect than when she is sitting on hens' eggs as the period of
incubation is longer. In addition to being careful to see that the hen
comes off her nest for food and water she should be dusted 2 or 3 times
during the hatch with some good insect powder to keep her free from lice
and therefore contented to stay on the nest. Two or 3 days before the
goslings hatch she should be dusted with especial care so that the
goslings will be free from vermin.
On account of the large size of the eggs the hen should not be depended
upon to turn them and this should be done by hand once or twice daily.
_Hatching with Geese._ All breeds of geese will hatch their eggs
although some are more persistently broody than others while there is a
considerable difference in individuals in this respect. Toulouse and
Chinese are perhaps the least broody of the breeds and are sometimes
termed non-broody. The eggs laid by geese are generally gathered as
laid. If this were not done they will become broody and stop laying
quicker than they do under this treatment.
The goose should be allowed to make her own nest. Often she will do this
in a barrel, box or other shelter if these are conveniently available.
When she shows that she is broody and has stopped laying she should be
given a sitting of eggs which will consist of 10 or 11. Geese are often
difficult to manage when they have young.
Wild and Egyptian geese should always be allowed to make their own nests
which they like to do on dry ground near the water, using straw leaves
or similar material to make the nest. They should not be disturbed as
they are ugly during this time. They will hatch practically every egg.
_Breaking Up Broody Geese._ A goose which shows a desire to sit, can be
broken up quite easily by confining her to a slat-bottomed coop without
any feed, but with plenty of water to drink, for from 2 to 4 days. After
being broken up she will generally commence laying again after an
interval of a few days.
_Hatching with an Incubator._ While it is more difficult to hatch goose
eggs in incubators than it is hen or duck eggs, this can be done by an
experienced operator with a fair degree of success. The incubator should
be operated at a temperature of 101.5 to 102.5 degrees F., with the
thermometer so placed that the bulb is on a level with the top of the
eggs. Beginning with the third day, the eggs should be turned twice a
day as with hens' eggs. Beginning about the tenth day, the eggs should
be cooled once a day, and they need more cooling than hens' eggs
require. They should be cooled down to a temperature of about 80 to 85
degrees. All goose eggs whether in incubators or under hens or geese
should be tested once during the hatch. The best time to do this is
sometime between the tenth and fourteenth days, when any infertile eggs
or dead germs should be thrown out.
_Moisture for Hatching Eggs._ Where eggs are being hatched in an
incubator, there is need for the use of considerable moisture. It should
be added first at about the end of the first week of incubation and
should be repeated a couple of times during the second week. This can
best be done by sprinkling the eggs liberally with water heated to about
100 degrees. Beginning with the 15th day and until 2 or 3 days before
the eggs are ready to hatch soak them in warm water for from one-half a
minute to a minute once every 2 or 3 days. For the last 2 or 3 days do
this daily.
When the eggs are being hatched by chicken hens or geese in nests
indoors or in boxes or barrels and in dry weather, moisture should be
added in the same manner and with the same frequency and amount as in
the incubator. When the nest is on damp ground, it is not necessary to
use any moisture on the eggs.
_Hatching._ Goslings as a rule hatch rather slowly and somewhat
unevenly, especially when under hens. For this reason it is well to
remove each gosling as it hatches from under the hen or goose and place
it in a covered, cloth-lined box or basket and keep near the stove
until the hatch is completed. As soon as the hatch is over, the goslings
that have been removed from the nest can be put back under the hen or
goose which is to be allowed to assume the duties of motherhood.
CHAPTER XIII
Brooding and Rearing Goslings
When the hatch is completed all the goslings which have been removed
from the nest should be returned; and the hen or goose removed to the
coop which she is to occupy while brooding them. At this time, if
hatched with a hen the goslings should be examined carefully on the head
and neck to see whether there are any head lice present. If any are
found the heads and necks of the goslings must be greased with a little
lard or vaseline. Not too much grease should be used as it may prove
harmful to the goslings.
_Methods of Brooding._ The most common methods of brooding goslings are
the use of geese, of chicken hens or of artificial means. Geese make the
best mothers but are not always available especially during the early
hatches. Geese may also prove rather unruly when they have young and for
this reason are not in favor with some goose raisers. When hatching is
done simultaneously with geese and hens it is the practice of some
raisers to give all the goslings hatched to the geese to rear.
Hens can be used very successfully for rearing goslings especially if
they are confined to a coop for the first week or two so that they
cannot range too far and too fast and tire the goslings out. Not over 6
or 8 goslings should be given to a hen to brood.
Artificial methods are very successful with goslings much more so in
fact than are artificial methods of hatching the eggs. Some goose
raisers prefer to use artificial means of brooding, especially if they
have only a few goslings and are brooding at the same time some chicks
or ducklings.
_Brooding with Hens or Geese._ A suitable roomy coop should be provided
to which the goslings with their mother, either hen or goose, can be
moved when the hatch is completed. The coop should be so constructed by
means of a slatted front or otherwise, that the hen can be confined and
the goslings allowed to range. It is very desirable to get the goslings
out on grass as soon as possible. A goose with goslings is often allowed
to have her liberty but many raisers prefer to confine her to a coop the
same as when a hen is used. The coop should have a board floor well
bedded with straw, shavings or similar material. This will not only help
to keep the goslings dry but will also serve to protect them from their
enemies during the night. For this same reason the coop should be so
constructed that it can be closed at night by means of a wire covered
door so as to shut out marauders, and at the same time allow plenty of
ventilation. The coop must be cleaned often so as to keep the goslings
clean and dry.
_Length of Time Brooding Is Necessary._ The time that goslings need
brooding will, of course, depend upon the weather. During mild weather
10 days is usually sufficient, after which they can do without any
brooding. Early in the season, brooding must be extended over a longer
period. This may mean anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks or even longer.
_Artificial Brooding._ For this purpose any brooder utilized for chicks
or ducks can be used for goslings. To start with they should have a
temperature of about 100 degrees but this can be reduced in a few days
until in a week or ten days it is only 70 to 80 degrees or if the
weather is mild artificial heat may be dispensed with entirely. Where
there are only a few goslings they may be put with a brood of ducks as
long as they need heat. It does not work so well to put them with chicks
both because they do not require a high temperature so long as the
chicks and also because they are so large as to be likely to tread on
and injure some of the chicks. Brooders should be well bedded with
straw, shavings or some similar material and should be cleaned out every
2 or 3 days so as to be kept clean and dry. Do not crowd the goslings;
give them plenty of room.
Some goose raisers do not depend upon heated brooders at all, especially
when only a few goslings are to be brooded. For the first day or two the
goslings are kept in a covered basket or box in the house near a fire
and after this are put out during the warmth of the day but brought into
the house and put in the basket or box at night until they are two or
three weeks old. The same practice should be followed with goslings
reared in brooders, these being used only during the night after the
first 2 or 3 days, the goslings being put out-doors during the day in
good weather.
When goslings which are being artificially brooded are put out during
the day on the grass, they should be confined at first. This can be
easily accomplished by building a triangular enclosure, formed of 3
boards, 1 foot wide or wider, placed up on edge. This enclosure can be
easily shifted to a new position each day thus giving the goslings fresh
ground and fresh grass.
General Care of Growing Goslings
Goslings should be kept dry and for this reason should be kept shut up
until the dew is off the grass in the morning. For the same reason they
should not be allowed access to water in which to swim until they are at
least 3 or 4 weeks old. When allowed to swim, care should be taken to
see that they can get out of the water easily.
Goslings caught in a cold rain will often be overcome and apparently
dead. Frequently they can be revived and saved by wrapping them in a
heated cloth and placing them near a warm fire. While they are still
young, goslings should be driven under shelter whenever a rain storm
comes up.
When allowed to run at liberty, goslings must be kept track of to some
extent. They may become lost and have to be driven back to their shelter
at night. Or they may fall into holes or get caught in fences and
corners and must be released. When allowed to run with larger stock they
are more or less liable to injury from being stepped upon or kicked.
A growing coop or shelter of some sort should be provided for the
growing goslings although this is not always done after they are pretty
well feathered out. Such a coop should be large enough so that the
goslings are not crowded, and should be well ventilated. It should have
a board floor and be capable of being closed so as to protect the
goslings from their enemies, but without cutting off ventilation.
If natural shade is not available where the goslings range, artificial
shade of some sort must be provided during the hot weather. Growing
goslings are quite susceptible to extreme heat and will not make as good
growth if not provided with shade. Artificial shade of boards or brush
can be easily provided.
If for any reason it is necessary to confine growing goslings, they
should be provided with good grass yards or runs and their coops or
shelters should be moved to a fresh location frequently.
It is better, if possible, to keep the growing stock separate from the
old breeding stock as they will do better and make more rapid growth
under these conditions. Usually, however, where only a few geese are
reared each year, old and young stock are allowed to range together.
_Feeding the Goslings._ Like chicks or ducks, goslings do not need to be
fed as soon as hatched, the yolk of the eggs providing all the
nourishment they need for at least 36 hours. They should, however, be
furnished water to drink as soon as the hatch is completed.
The first feed should consist of stale bread, soaked in milk or water.
With this material should be mixed boiled eggs chopped up fine. The
goslings should be fed 3 or preferably 4 times daily until they are 2 or
3 weeks old. Chopped grass or some other green feed should be added to
the feed, the quantity fed being increased steadily. It is important to
get the goslings out on grass as soon as possible, which should be after
the first 2 or 3 days if the weather is good, so that they will be able
to graze for themselves. Five per cent of fine grit or sharp sand should
likewise be added to the feed. Some growers prefer to feed the grit or
sand in a hopper to which the goslings have constant access and from
which they can help themselves. A constant supply of fresh drinking
water is essential and this should be provided in drinking fountains or
dishes such that the goslings cannot get their feet or bodies in them.
When a good grass range is available, the goslings, after they are 2 or
3 weeks old, will need only one light feed of mash daily in addition to
the grass they eat. Such a mash will consist of 2 parts shorts and 1
part corn meal, ground oats or ground barley. Where the pasture is good
many goslings are raised from the age of 2 or 3 weeks until they are
ready to be fattened without any other feed than the grass and other
material which they get for themselves. However, the feeding of one
light feed of mash a day is advantageous as it insures adequate feed for
their need and promotes quicker growth. After the goslings are 6 weeks
old, if they are still fed, the mash should be changed to equal parts
shorts, corn meal and ground oats with 5% meat scrap. This same mash can
be continued until fattening time. Whole grains are not generally fed to
goslings until they are well feathered and often not until it is desired
to fatten them.
_Percentage of Goslings Raised._ Goslings are for the most part quite
hardy and are comparatively easy to brood. This coupled with the fact
that they are relatively free from disease and are not much troubled
with insect pests makes it possible to raise a large per cent of the
thrifty goslings hatched. With good care and with good strong healthy
stock, it should be possible to raise in the neighborhood of 90% of the
goslings hatched.
_Rapidity of Growth._ Goslings make a very rapid growth. When marketed
as green geese they are usually turned off at from 12 to 16 weeks of
age. At this age they should weigh from 9 to 12 pounds, depending upon
the breed and upon the rapidity of growth. Many, probably most, young
geese are not marketed at as early an age as this but are held until the
Christmas season or later and marketed at heavier weight. The best grown
Toulouse goslings should attain a weight of 16 to 18 pounds by Christmas
or when 6 to 8 months old. Other breeds will weigh proportionately less.
Special attention or special feeding will, of course, increase the
weight over that attained without such feeding.
As a rule the heavier breeds such as the Toulouse do not get their full
growth until they are about 18 months old. After this as geese of both
sexes grow older, they will, of course, fill out more and attain greater
weight.
_Disease._ Goslings are remarkably free from disease and a very large
percentage of all strong goslings hatched should be reared. One of the
principal difficulties is diarrhoea. This is usually caused by faulty
feeding. It may be due to feeding too great a quantity of soft feed or
to giving soft feed in too sloppy a condition. Access to stagnant water,
unclean enclosures or unclean drinking dishes may also cause diarrhoea.
When partly grown goslings which are being given soft feed are troubled
with diarrhoea, this may sometimes be checked by substituting a light
feed of corn daily for a part of the soft feed.
Goslings are sometimes troubled with lameness. This is usually caused by
faulty feeding also, particularly by feeding a ration which is lacking
in something needed, such as some form of animal feed like beef scrap
which may cause a lack of mineral matter in the ration. If the goslings
cannot secure it for themselves a supply of grit or gravel should be
placed at their disposal.
There is an infectious disease of geese which sometimes causes trouble
known as goose septicemia or hemorrhagic septicemia. This is a disease
similar to fowl cholera and may attack either young or mature geese. It
is not often found on farms where the geese are raised in small lots,
but sometimes proves troublesome on farms where a large number of geese
are gathered together for fattening. The geese are often found dead when
one goes to feed them without having shown much preliminary sickness.
The disease is usually fatal. Shortly before they die the affected geese
may acquire an uncertain gait and may twist the head about and burrow it
in the dirt. Treatment is of no avail. If the disease occurs in a flock,
the affected birds should be removed and killed, while the rest of the
flock should be moved to new ground if possible. The ground which they
previously occupied should be plowed and any houses, shelter, feed
troughs, and drinking vessels should be thoroughly disinfected.
CHAPTER XIV
Fattening and Marketing Geese
_Classes of Geese Marketed._ The market geese consist principally of the
surplus young ganders not required for breeding purposes and such of the
old geese of either sex as it may be considered desirable to get rid of.
Some young females, when the number raised is in excess of the number
required for breeders also find their way to market. While these geese
are marketed in the largest numbers during the Thanksgiving and
Christmas holiday season, particularly the latter, some geese of course
find their way to market practically throughout the year. There is also
a rather limited trade in "green geese" which corresponds to the trade
in spring or "green" ducklings. Green geese are goslings about 12 to 16
weeks old, generally of the larger breeds, which are forced for rapid
growth and are made to weigh in the neighborhood of 10 pounds at that
age. These bring a good price and yield a good profit where there is
demand for this class of geese.
_Markets and Prices._ As with most classes of poultry, the large cities
offer the best market for geese. Especially the cities which have a
large foreign population make good markets as many foreigners are more
in the habit of using geese for a holiday dish than are native
Americans. The most favorable market usually occurs at Christmas when
roast goose and apple sauce is in considerable favor. Considerable
numbers of geese are also used at Thanksgiving time and in recent years
as the price of turkeys has steadily increased there has been an
increasing tendency to substitute goose for turkey on that day.
Following are prices paid for various classes of geese on the New York
wholesale market from May 1920 to June 1921 as reported by the New York
Produce Review. Quite a wide variation in price will be noted in many
cases which reflects the difference in condition of the geese as
received. In the case of express receipts of live geese where a wide
variation in prices occurs the high quotations represent the receipt of
especially fattened geese from nearby farms.
WESTERN GEESE, FROZEN
1920
May 5 25 @ 31c per lb.
12 25 @ 31c " "
19 25 @ 31c " "
26 25 @ 31c " "
June 2 25 @ 31c " "
9 25 @ 31c " "
16 25 @ 31c " "
23 25 @ 31c " "
30 23 @ 29c " "
July 7 23 @ 29c " "
14 21 @ 27c " "
21 21 @ 27c " "
28 21 @ 27c " "
Aug. 4 20 @ 25c " "
1921
Jan. 26 26 @ 34c " "
Feb. 2 26 @ 34c " "
9 26 @ 36c " "
16 26 @ 36c " "
23 26 @ 36c " "
Mar. 2 26 @ 36c " "
9 25 @ 35c " "
16 25 @ 35c " "
23 25 @ 35c " "
30 25 @ 35c " "
Apr. 6 25 @ 35c " "
13 25 @ 35c " "
20 25 @ 35c " "
27 25 @ 35c " "
May 4 25 @ 35c " "
11 25 @ 35c " "
FRESH DRESSED GEESE
1920
Nov. 17 34 @ 43c per lb.
24 30 @ 38c " "
Dec. 1 25 @ 36c " "
8 30 @ 36c " "
15 30 @ 39c " "
22 30 @ 40c " "
29 30 @ 40c " "
1921
Jan. 5 30 @ 37c " "
12 25 @ 35c " "
19 25 @ 34c " "
26 25 @ 34c " "
FRESH DRESSED GEESE
1921
Feb. 2 25 @ 34c per lb.
9 26 @ 36c " "
16 26 @ 36c " "
23 26 @ 36c " "
Mar. 2 26 @ 36c " "
9 25 @ 35c " "
16 25 @ 35c " "
23 25 @ 35c " "
LIVE GEESE--VIA FREIGHT
1920
May 5 18 @ 20c per lb.
12 22c " "
19 20 @ 22c " "
26 20 @ 22c " "
June 2 20 @ 22c " "
9 20 @ 22c " "
16 20 @ 22c " "
23 18 @ 20c " "
30 18 @ 20c " "
July 7 18 @ 20c " "
14 18 @ 20c " "
28 25c " "
Aug 4 25c " "
18 25c " "
25 25c " "
Sept. 1 25c " "
22 26c " "
29 26c " "
Oct. 20 25 @ 28c " "
27 27 @ 30c " "
Nov. 3 32c " "
10 32c " "
17 32c " "
24 28 @ 32c " "
Dec. 1 28 @ 30c " "
8 30 @ 34c " "
15 28 @ 35c " "
22 25 @ 30c " "
29 27 @ 32c " "
1921
Jan. 5 26 @ 32c " "
12 26 @ 30c " "
19 25 @ 29c " "
26 25 @ 29c " "
Feb. 2 27 @ 33c " "
9 28 @ 33c " "
16 26 @ 32c " "
23 25 @ 26c " "
LIVE GEESE--VIA FREIGHT
1921
Mar. 2 25c per lb.
9 18 @ 20c " "
16 18 @ 20c " "
23 20c " "
30 20c " "
Apr. 6 15 @ 18c " "
13 15 @ 18c " "
20 15 @ 18c " "
27 15 @ 18c " "
May 4 14 @ 16c " "
11 14 @ 16c " "
18 14 @ 16c " "
25 14 @ 16c " "
June 1 14 @ 16c " "
LIVE GEESE--VIA EXPRESS
1920
Nov. 24 30 @ 33c per lb.
Dec. 1 30 @ 32c " "
8 32 @ 35c " "
15 30c " "
22 30c " "
29 28 @ 35c " "
1921
Jan. 5 29 @ 38c " "
12 28 @ 38c " "
19 28 @ 36c " "
26 27 @ 37c " "
Feb. 9 28 @ 40c " "
16 28 @ 42c " "
23 26 @ 28c " "
Mar. 2 25 @ 28c " "
9 20 @ 23c " "
16 18 @ 22c " "
23 18 @ 22c " "
30 20 @ 23c " "
Apr. 6 17 @ 20c " "
13 17 @ 20c " "
20 17 @ 21c " "
27 16 @ 20c " "
May 4 15 @ 18c " "
11 15 @ 18c " "
18 15 @ 18c " "
25 15 @ 18c " "
_Prejudice Against Roast Goose._ There exists on the part of some
persons a prejudice against goose on the grounds that it is too greasy a
dish. When improperly cooked, goose will prove to be too greasy to suit
many fastidious palates but this condition is not so much the fault of
the fowl as it is of the method of preparation and cooking. When dressed
if the goose shows a large amount of abdominal fat, as it usually does
and should, a large part of this should be removed. This fat when tried
out is highly esteemed by many cooks and by other persons is treasured
as an efficacious treatment for croup in children. Also while the goose
is roasting, a part of the fat as it cooks out of the carcass should be
removed. Treated in this way one need have no fear that the roast goose
will prove too greasy but instead one will be pleasantly surprised at
the rich taste which the roast goose possesses.
_Methods of Fattening Geese for Market._ Many geese are sent to market
without any special treatment or effort to fatten them, being taken
right off pasture in such condition as they happen to be or at best with
only a half-hearted attempt to fatten them by feeding a little corn or
some other grain for a short period. When a real effort is made to
fatten geese for the market it is generally done in one of three ways.
First is pen fattening which is the method best adapted to small lots of
geese on the average farm. Second is by noodling which is only attempted
in sections where the goose raisers are somewhat of specialists and
where the effort is made to turn out geese of superior quality. Third is
fattening in large flocks which is practiced only by a very limited
number of farmers in scattered sections who take the unfattened geese
raised on the general farms and finish them for market.
_Pen Fattening._ For this purpose the geese are put in pens large enough
to hold them comfortably but without any yards. Not over 20 to 25 geese
should be penned together for this purpose. To get the best results the
geese should be kept as quiet as possible and to accomplish this the
pens are partly darkened and the geese disturbed only at feeding time.
The geese are fed three times daily; in the morning, at noon and at
night, being given all they will clean up. One feed should consist of a
moist mash composed of one part shorts and two parts corn meal. This
mash should not be sloppy. The other two feeds consist mainly of corn
with some oats or barley. Some roughage such as vegetables or hay should
also be supplied. The pens should be deeply bedded with good oat straw.
The geese will eat a considerable amount of this which thus helps to
supply the roughage which they need. The straw also, of course, serves
to keep the pen and the birds clean. A plentiful supply of good drinking
water is also necessary. The usual period of fattening is three to five
weeks and a gain of from 4 to 6 pounds per bird can be secured. This
method of fattening is commonly used by goose raisers in Wisconsin and
the geese from this state are noted for their fine quality.
A less intensive form of pen fattening is often used by farmers where a
small yard is provided in addition to the pen itself and where no effort
is made to darken the pen. If no other means for fattening are
available, a small yard can be built, a few boards arranged for a
shelter at one end and the birds fed in this enclosure as described
above.
_Noodling Geese._ Noodling geese is a method of hand feeding which has
for its purpose the production of the best fattened geese. It is not
employed to any extent except in the section about Watertown, Wisconsin,
where the farmers specialize to some extent on goose fattening. It is a
method requiring long hours and tedious labor and cannot be profitably
carried on unless a special price can be obtained for the product.
In noodling geese, 8 or 10 geese are placed in a pen about 8 by 12 feet
which is heavily bedded with straw. A partition extends halfway across
the pen and is utilized to keep the geese separate as they are fed.
Young ganders and any old ganders or geese which are to be marketed are
used for noodling.
The pen is kept dark and the geese should be disturbed only at feeding
time. The first feed is given at 5 o'clock in the morning and five feeds
are given daily at about 4 hour intervals, the last feed coming at 11 p.
m. However, when the geese are first put on feed they are noodled only
3 times a day this being gradually increased to 5 times. The feeder sits
on a box or stool in a corner of the pen, grasps each goose in turn
holding it between his legs to keep it from struggling as he stuffs it
with noodles. The goose is handled by its neck, never by its legs which
are easily injured, and is held with its back toward the feeder. The
feeder usually wears gloves to protect his hands from the severe bites
which the birds will inflict. The feeder must also handle the birds as
carefully as possible, especially as killing time approaches for the
flesh bruises easily and the discolored patches spoil the appearance of
the dressed goose.