CHAPTER XVIII

PASSING OF THE LAWLESS

A rude wooden cross set up in a pile of stones is one of the striking

features of Mexican landscape that is frequently seen. As the train

whirls along through a narrow pass, high up on the mountain sides the

cross is seen outlined against the sky; or, if you are pursuing your

journey by horse or mule, in the remote districts away from the railways,

your reverie is suddenly interrupted by coming upon one of these silent

sentinels unawares. These crosses are mute reminders of an age that is

passing away. Each one marks the spot where a murder has taken place in

times past. It is an appeal for the good Catholic to mutter a prayer

for the soul of the murdered one, who was thus without preparation

thrust into the world beyond. There was a time, and that not more than

a generation ago, when the murderous and lawless classes were numerous

in Mexico. The Mexican bandit was so much feared, that, even to this

day, some hesitate to travel in that country, and many more make walking

arsenals of themselves before turning their faces toward our southern

neighbour.

If the traditionary history that has come down to us is to be believed,

these robber clans can trace their lineage back to the peregrinating

merchants of the Aztecs, and Toltecs. The rich merchant of those days

travelled over the country visiting the various cities with his wares.

For self protection they were obliged to carry with them a large force of

armed retainers. This knowledge of their own power led them to violence.

If, for any reason, these merchants became angered at a town, or, if the

people refused to trade with them, they would attack it, pillage it and

carry off the inhabitants to be sold as slaves in other remote places, or

hold them for ransom. This course generally proved far more remunerative

than the more prosaic occupation of barter and trade. It was indeed a

strong town in those days that could afford to refuse to trade with some

of the powerful merchants. If one trader was not strong enough himself,

he could easily enlist the assistance of another of his class, as the

loot and slaves would be sufficient to remunerate both very well for the

undertaking.

Later came the freebooters, who, in early Spanish days, had things very

much their own way. Although many of these were well known, they would

visit the cities armed to the teeth and no one would dare to molest them.

It is even claimed, and with good reason, that many officials were in

league with these knights of the road, and gave them information, and

assisted them in their plans to waylay wealthy inhabitants. So long as

the outlaws did not interfere with matters of government, their immunity

was practically secure. There is one city in the northern part of Mexico

named Catorce, the Spanish numeral for fourteen, because, for a long

time, it was the stronghold of fourteen of the boldest, bravest and worst

bandits that Mexico ever produced, who terrorized the country round about

and could not be captured or subdued.

After independence, came a series of revolutions and uprisings for more

than a half century. The bandits then became guerillas, fighting on

whichever side offered the greatest advantage. They would loot a church,

or rob the hacienda of some wealthy landowner, with equal cheerfulness.

The place or person robbed depended upon whether the guerillas were

enlisted in the cause of the clericals, or anti-clericals. By reason

of the many turmoils and fights that took place, these guerillas became

a numerous and powerful class with their rendezvous in the mountains,

which, in no part of Mexico, are far distant. Before the advent of the

railroads and telegraph it was a difficult matter to cope with these

robber bands in Mexico because roads were lacking, and their haunts were

almost inaccessible. This was one of the first problems attacked by

President Diaz when he came into power, and he did it with the boldness,

originality and dash for which he was noted.

This new leader found the army a disorganized band of guerillas led by

a few men, not always over-scrupulous, and many parts of the country

overrun by bands of outlaws with whom the local authorities were utterly

unable to cope. Having some veteran troops after his many campaigns, Diaz

sent them after the bandits whenever opportunity afforded. They were

hunted and trailed into their mountain fastnesses. The soldiers were

instructed never to take captives. A little heap of fresh dirt, or a few

stones, marked the place where a living and breathing bandit had once

stood. This war of extermination made welcome to many the proposition

of Diaz. This was that he would furnish employment to those outlaws who

should surrender, and would grant to them protection. The President

being known as a man of his word, this proclamation had its effect and

large numbers formerly under the ban of law, surrendered.

[Illustration: A _RURALE_]

From this class of men the first companies of _rurales_ were formed.

Finding it was more profitable, or at least safer, to be in favour with

this aggressive government than under its ban, they willingly entered

this service. These men were brave and thoroughly familiar with all the

mountain retreats and haunts of the outlaw bands. They hunted down their

former confederates until a live bandit was a rare specimen. Travelling

once more became secure, and now there are few places in Mexico where

it is not perfectly safe for a traveller to journey. The companies of

rurales, of which there are many, form one of the most effective forces

for preserving order ever devised by any government. Like the famous

_guardia civil_ of Spain, the rurales patrol the remote mountain trails

and great plains of the central plateaus, and are in reality a body of

rural police. Many a lonely traveller has been made glad by the sight

of the gray uniform of this band. They are generally kind hearted, and

will do everything in their power for a foreigner. Their uniform is

the typical riding costume of the country, and differs from the French

appearance of the uniforms of the regular army. They are fine horsemen,

expert in the use of pistol and carbine, and form one of the most

picturesque cavalry bodies in the world.

There is no sickly sentimentality wasted upon law breakers, and the

highwayman, or robber, gets little sympathy. Few criminals get a second

opportunity to commit their outrages through the pardoning process. The

old _ley fuga_, or law of attempted escape, which was in force under

Spanish rule, under which Indians or slaves attempting to flee were shot,

was revived. Orders were promulgated to shoot highwaymen on sight, and

all other prisoners if escape was attempted. Few attempts to escape are

now made by prisoners, for the guards have a reckless way of sending

bullets after fleeing prisoners, so that no chains are needed to secure

them. The bullets are swift and any one in custody, even though held as

a witness, will be followed by the quick, death-dealing messengers, if

an attempt to escape is made. Gangs of convicts may be seen in various

places working on the streets, or on the roads, under military guard but

without shackle. The only report necessary in the event a prisoner is

killed is that he attempted to escape. It may be a harsh proceeding,

but it saves the state a great deal of money, and conviction is sure.

Furthermore, it relieves judge, jury and prison officials of much hard

work and annoyance.

A few years ago the Mexican army consisted of a few thousand irregular,

nondescript soldiers so common in Spanish-American countries. Such men it

was who placed Porfirio Diaz in power in 1876, the same year that we were

celebrating the first centennial of our independence. In promoting peace

this man of Mexico has not forgotten the arts of war. The army has been

improved until it has ceased to be made up of the comic-opera type of the

barefooted, half-naked soldier, and is now a well fed, well equipped, and

well clothed organization to which Mexicans can point with pride. To the

American eye the soldiers appear rather indifferent and insignificant,

because of their smaller stature and brown skin, which reveals the fact

that the regular soldier is generally drawn from the lower classes of

Mexicans.

Although Mexico might be termed a military nation, as military service

is made obligatory by the law of the country, yet in times of peace this

service is not enforced. It is said that the majority of the enlistments

are not even voluntary, but that recruits are drawn from the ranks of

those who are persistent law breakers—those guilty of petty criminal

offences which we would term misdemeanours. Many of these peon soldiers

who before enlistment never knew what it was to have regular meals and

wear clean clothes every day, leave the service after a few years much

better citizens, and possessing a better education, for schools are

maintained in connection with all the barracks where instruction is given

in reading, writing and mathematics. The pay is about forty cents per

day, in Mexican silver, and is good pay for that country when you take

into consideration the fact that the soldier has absolutely no expenses

except for such luxuries as he may want.

The standing army of Mexico consists of thirty thousand men and three

thousand two hundred officers. Of this number the infantry number

twenty-two thousand six hundred, cavalry five thousand five hundred,

artillery two thousand, engineers and other branches of the service

making up the remainder. This gives a soldier for every five hundred

inhabitants, as compared with one for every fifteen hundred inhabitants

in the United States. Both infantry and cavalry are equipped with the

Spanish Mauser rifles and carbines. The headquarters of the army

are in the City of Mexico, and several battalions of infantry and

regiments of cavalry are stationed there at all times. The country

is divided into a number of districts, at the headquarters of each

of which are stationed large bodies of troops. Nearly every town of

any size has a _commandancia_ where a few troops are quartered. This

general distribution of the military forces has been made with a prudent

foresight in order to prevent any local uprising.

[Illustration: ARMY HEADQUARTERS, CITY OF MEXICO]

In addition to the regular standing army, there are a number of armed

forces which would swell the number of available troops in time of war.

First and foremost are the _Rurales_ who number about three thousand five

hundred by actual count, but double that number in effectiveness. The

Fiscal Guards number about one thousand and are in the revenue service.

The police of the states and cities are compelled to undergo military

drill also, and could be drafted into the army as trained soldiers. These

several forces would constitute another army almost equal in number to

the regular standing army. Militia organizations have been provided for

by law similar to those organizations in our own country, but as yet

little has been done. When these plans are perfected, it is designed

to have the total war footing number a force of one hundred and fifty

thousand drilled and disciplined men.

The President of Mexico is the commander-in-chief of the army and navy.

The “West Point of Mexico” is located next to the presidential residence

and is called the Chapultepec Military Academy. It was founded in 1824.

During the war of 1847 Chapultepec was successfully stormed by the

American forces, but heroically defended by the cadets. A monument now

stands at the foot of the hill in memory of those cadets who fell in

that engagement, and a graceful tribute is paid to the memory of those

youthful patriots on each fourth of July, when wreaths are placed on

the monument by the American residents of the capital at the same time

that they decorate the graves of American soldiers who are buried near

the city. This school now ranks high as a military school, and more than

one-third of the commissioned officers of the army are graduates of this

institution. The graduate leaves this school with the rank of lieutenant.

The student must bind himself to serve seven years in the army, if he

takes the technical courses, and, if he is discharged, or refuses to

serve, must repay to the government $16 for each month he remained

in the academy. If war should occur, all retired graduates would be

compelled to report for service.

Not a generation ago the capital itself was the home of innumerable

thieves. In fact, a goodly percentage of the people were either thieves,

robbers or beggars. These were drawn from the _mestizo_ class, and formed

a picturesque but filthy group of blackguards. They would make love to

any one’s pocket, and argue with one another at the point of a long,

sharp knife. Each one carried a knife and revolver. “Unfortunate men,

women and children, the legitimate heritage of wrong, oppression and

misgovernment, thronged the streets begging in daytime, and committing

petty robberies by night. They slept by hundreds in doorways, on benches

in public parks, in ruined houses, and in the dirtiest of apartments. A

score or more of filthy beings of all ages and both sexes would sleep

together in one small room reeking with the miasma that rose from sewers

and unclean cobble-stone pavements.”

Vice was the natural outcome of such conditions. All natural feelings of

delicacy and shame were deadened. Morality was unknown, and they lived

like animals rather than human beings. Marriages were unthought of, and

children knew not their parents, for even their mothers deserted them. If

not deserted, they were frequently maimed and turned out into the street

to beg. Pulque and mescal added its touch to the picture. Disfiguring

diseases were added, and the name _leperos_ attached to them. Brantz

Mayer, a writer on Mexico, has given the following definition of the

_lepero_. “Blacken a man in the sun, let his hair grow long and tangled

and become filled with vermin; let him plod about the streets in all

kinds of dirt for years, and never know the use of a brush, or towel, or

water, even, except in storms; let him put on a pair of leather breeches

at twenty and wear them until forty without change or ablution; and over

all place a torn and blackened hat and a tattered blanket begrimed with

abominations; let him have wild eyes and shining teeth, features pinched

by famine into sharpness, and breast bared and browned; combine all these

in your imagination and you have a recipe for a Mexican _lepero_.”

These _leperos_ were the thieving class. They frequented all parts of the

city. Even the churches were not exempt and you were just as likely to

be robbed by some apparently devout, kneeling worshipper saying his _ave

marias_ in a sacred edifice as on the street. In the less frequented

streets many hold-ups took place, and the bodies of those murdered would

be found on the pavement in the morning. It was hardly safe to move about

the street after night had fallen. The thieves’ market was well known and

did a thriving business. Here were the pawn-brokers who did a profitable

business acting as “fences” for the thieves. Many instances are told by

foreigners who were robbed, and, in a few hours, found their property

exposed for sale in this market. They were obliged to pay considerable

sums to recover their own property.

All these types are now disappearing, and even the beggars are less

numerous. The former lawless _leperos_ are now seen in the poor venders

of lottery tickets who crowd every public place. Begging is forbidden

in most parts of the city. Vice has not disappeared, it is true, nor

has it in American cities. The poor peon still gets intoxicated and is

dirty, but he is more law-abiding than formerly. Conditions, which are

the result of neglect and misrule of centuries, can only be overcome

entirely by education, immigration and the infusion of saner ideas, and

this is a gradual process. A whole city, or a whole country, can not

be plowed up and re-sown in a season, as the corn fields of last year

were transformed into the waving fields of golden grain this year. A

generation is even too short a time. The change actually wrought has been

almost a miracle. Work can now be had by all who are willing to work,

and the government is making strenuous efforts to get rid of the idle

classes. It is a long and hard task, but another decade under present

conditions will work wonders.

An excellent police system is found in the capital and all the other

cities. A policeman is not hard to find. One is stationed at nearly every

street intersection. During the day he stands like a statue, occasionally

leaning against a door post. At night the policeman brings a lantern and

a blanket, and sets the lantern in the centre of the crossing, while he

stands beside it or not far away. The joker says the lantern is intended

to aid the thief in avoiding the officer of the law. Sometimes after the

people quit passing, he may lean up against a building and fall asleep,

but you can locate his vicinity by the lantern. As the windows are all

heavily barred, and the doors are heavy oaken affairs that it would take

a stick of dynamite to move, and as fires are infrequent, his lot is

not a very hard one. The police are very numerous, however, because the

government wants to keep informed in order that a revolutionary movement

may not gain any headway. One seldom hears of knock-downs now, and pocket

picking is about the only kind of robbery.

These guardians of the peace are generally called _serenos_. This name

clings to them from the old Spanish watchman whose duty it was to call

out the time of the night and state of the weather. As this was usually

clear, the watchman would say “_tiempo sereno_” meaning “weather clear.”

From the frequent repetition of this term the watchmen were dubbed

_serenos_. The Mexican _sereno_ is generally a faithful and reliable

official and is obliging to a stranger. They have made the streets in the

City of Mexico as safe as in Paris. The senses of sight and smell may be

offended more often, but purse and life are just as secure.

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