CHAPTER XIII

A TRANSPLANTED SPORT

The bull-fight as an amusement is the exclusive property of the Spaniard.

It originated in Spain and has never spread beyond the limits of Spanish

conquest. Perhaps it is this very exclusiveness that causes them to cling

to it so tenaciously, though legislatures and governments have made

vigorous efforts to abolish the brutal spectacles. It is, according to a

native writer, a proof of the superiority of the Spaniard, because “the

Spanish men are as much more brave than other men, as the Spanish bull is

more savage and valiant than all other bulls.” Rather, it seems to me to

be a survivor of the ancient gladiatorial contests, or fights between man

and beast in the great amphitheatres of Rome.

I had never before, even when standing within the historic walls of the

Colosseum, been able to picture in my own mind the scene of the arena

crowded with combatants while the expectant multitude filled the seats

in tier upon tier, until I found myself within the great bull-ring of

Madrid. There was the arena, and round about were the eager throng, a

crowd of fourteen thousand human beings who impatiently and anxiously

awaited the sound of the bugle which would announce the opening of the

spectacle of blood and brute torture. Then it was possible to understand

how, in an earlier and more brutal age, the Roman populace gloated over

the combats where the death of some of the participants was as much

fore-doomed as the fate of the bull who enters the ring to-day with a

defiant toss of his horns.

If popularity is to be judged by the amount of patronage, then the

bull-fight is the most popular amusement in Mexico to-day. The national

life is permeated with the sport. The Sunday bull-fight is the topic of

conversation in the capital for the following week. Even the children

indulge in imitations of this favourite game in their childish way. It

is only on Sundays and feast days that the _corrida de toros_ occurs.

Six days shalt thou do nothing and on the seventh go to the bull-fight,

runs an old Madrid saying. They probably go on the theory that a good

entertainment is better on that day than any other. It is useless to

argue with a Spaniard or Spanish-American about the brutality or

inhumanity of these spectacles as they will immediately remind us of the

prize-fights within our own borders which frequently result in death.

This is a gentle hint that we should clean our own Augean stables before

telling our neighbours what they should not do. Perhaps it is a rebuke

that is not entirely out of place.

The Plaza de Toros is always a great, circular building of stone or wood

with little pretence or ornament. It is built for the bull-fight and for

no other purpose. The interior is an immense amphitheatre, with seats in

tiers rising to the top where the private boxes are located. These alone

have a roof, as all the rest of the structure is open to the sky. Half

the seats are exposed to the bright sun and the other half are in shadow.

The seats on the _sol_, or sunny side, generally cost only about half

as much as those in the _sombra_, or shady part. The fights are usually

advertised “if the time and weather permits.” The ring itself is an arena

about a hundred feet in diameter, encircled by a high board fence with

a lower barrier on the inside, which serves as a means of escape for a

_torero_ who is too closely pursued by the irate bull. Sometimes a bull

will leap over this first barrier and then an exciting race follows.

An American will not soon forget the first sight of the full

amphitheatre. The scene is an exciting one and there is a tension of

the nerves in anticipation of what is to come. The bands play and, if

there is any delay, the thousands of impatient spectators will shout and

yell themselves hoarse. There is usually a cheer when the president for

the occasion and his companions take their seats. At length the gates

opposite the president are opened and a gaily caparisoned horseman,

called the _alguacil_, appears. He asks permission to kill the bulls.

This being granted, the president tosses him the key to the bull-pen,

which he catches in his hat. He is cheered if he does catch it and hissed

if he fails. The gate opens again and the gay company of bull-fighters is

announced by the blast of trumpets. These men arrayed in costumes of red,

yellow, green and blue silks, satins and velvets, glittering with beads,

jewels and gold braid, form a brilliant spectacle as they march across

the arena to salute the president, after the manner of the gladiators of

old. Every one taking part in this exhibition appears in this procession,

from the _matador_ to the men with wheelbarrows and shovels who clean up

the arena after each performance. I said all, but the principal character

himself is reserved until later. After saluting the president the company

march around the ring to receive the plaudits of the people.

The bull-fight is a tragedy in three acts. After the company have

withdrawn, the door through which the bull enters is unlocked and the

first act begins with a flourish of trumpets. The bull rushes out from a

dark stall into the dazzling light, furious with rage and trembling in

every limb. This is an intense moment and all eyes are centred upon the

newcomer. As he enters, a barbed steel hook covered with flowing ribbons

is placed in his shoulder. The ribbons indicate the ranch or _hacienda_

from whence he came. Even the street urchins can recognize the colours of

a _hacienda_ which has the reputation of producing animals that are noted

for their belligerent qualities.

Startled by the intense light and enraged by the stinging of the steel

hook, the bull stands for an instant recovering his senses. Sometimes he

will paw the earth, toss the dust over his back and bellow his defiance.

Around him in the ring are the _capeadores_, men on foot carrying red

capes, and _picadores_, men on horses armed with lances. These latter

sit motionless as statues upon their steeds that are blindfolded ready

for the sacrifice.

After a moment of uncertainty, the bull dashes either at a _capeador_

or _picador_. The former quickly runs to the barrier and nimbly leaps

over, leaving the bull more infuriated than ever. The horse attracts

his attention next and there is no way of escape for this poor, old,

broken down servant of man. The _picador_ makes no effort to save his

steed, which is blindfolded so that he may not see his danger, but simply

plants his blunt spear-point in the shoulder of the brute. Sometimes this

will save the horse, but it does not please the audience for a certain

number of horses must be sacrificed. More frequently the bull will, with

a single toss of the horns, overthrow both horse and rider in a heap.

The _capeadores_ then hover around with their cloaks and distract the

attention of the bull from the prostrate rider who is helpless because of

his iron armour. Once I saw a rider fall on the back of the bull much to

the surprise of both. It is seldom that a _picador_ is killed, for the

bull will nearly always leave him and chase a red cloak.

Fortunate, indeed, is the horse that is instantly killed. If able to

walk, he is ridden around in the ring again with blood streaming from

his wounds and trampling upon his own bowels. Or the poor brute may be

sewed up in a crude, surgical way in order to enable him to canter around

the ring a few more times. Once, only, in an experience covering several

bull-fights in several countries, have I seen a horse drop dead from the

first blow. The fight is not complete without the shedding of the blood

of horses, and sometimes the crowd will clamour for more horses before

this act is closed. There must be enough, for economy in this feature

will place the people in a bad mood. The audience must be catered to,

for if disappointed they are likely to demolish the ring and tear up

the seats as a method of showing their displeasure. This, in itself, is

sufficient to prove the debasing and brutalizing influence of this sport.

In the second act the _banderilleros_, men who plant the _banderillas_

in the neck of the bull, appear in the arena. This is the most artistic

and most interesting act in the entire performance, for great skill is

displayed and little blood spilled. These men come in the ring without

cape or any means of defence and depend entirely upon their skill and

agility for safety. They are finely dressed and are usually superbly

built fellows with lithe and muscular bodies. The _banderillero_ takes

with him a pair of barbed darts about two feet long and covered with

fancy coloured paper with ribbon streamers. He shakes these at the bull,

thus provoking an assault. Then, just when he seems to be on the bull’s

horns and the novice turns his face away to avoid the scene, he plants

the darts in the gory neck of the bull and steps lightly aside. These

darts re-enrage the bull, who has been getting rather tired of the whole

affair. He attacks whatever engages his attention. It may be only a dead

horse which he will then tear open, being aroused to fury by the smell of

the blood.

[Illustration: PLANTING THE _BANDERILLAS_]

There are usually two of these men and each plants four darts in the

bull’s neck. They must be placed in front of the shoulder and so firmly

inserted that they will not be shaken out. If successful in these

particulars, then the _banderillero_ who is a favourite will receive

prolonged applause and a perfect volley of complimentary comments. Even

the _matador_ himself ofttimes deigns to take part in this act. If so, he

performs the act in some daring and novel way. They will sometimes sit in

a chair and thus plant the darts, or take a pole and vault over the bull

after placing them. Occasionally a bull is cowardly and will not fight.

Then “fire” is called for and darts filled with powder which explodes in

the flesh are used. This will cause the bull to dance and skip around in

his agony, which is very pleasing to the audience and furnishes variety

to an otherwise monotonous exhibition.

The trumpet sounds the last act. This is the duel,—the death. Everything

has been done with reference to this act. The first two acts have been

intended to madden the animal and tire him by the violent exercise and

loss of blood. He is panting, his sides heave as though they would burst,

his neck is one mass of blood over which, as if in mockery, hang the

many-hued darts. The man with the sword would not stand much show with

a fresh and unwearied animal. This actor is the _matador_, or _espada_,

and, if known as one who kills his bulls with a single stroke of the

sword, he will receive great applause on entering. He steps forward to

the president’s box and makes a little speech, offering to kill the bull

to the honour of Mexico. Throwing his hat to some one in the seats,

(for it is considered an honour to hold any of his apparel) the hero

advances sword in hand toward the bull, who, during this by-play, has

been entertained by the cape-bearers again. He bears in his left hand a

staff, called the _muleta_, over which is a red flag, and in the right

a keen-edged sword. The flag serves both as a lure to the beast and a

protection to the man. He is usually pale and always alert, and studies

the animal for a moment to ascertain his disposition. This can not be

prolonged for the audience will not brook delay. The tension of nerves is

too great. As the bull makes a rush for the red flag, with head lowered,

the _matador_ plunges the keen blade into the bull’s shoulders up to the

hilt. The bull staggers and dies.

It is wonderful to see how excited and enthusiastic the crowd becomes

when the _matador_ has made a skilful killing. They rise and cheer and

wave their handkerchiefs. As he passes around the ring to receive their

applause, a perfect volley of hats, coats, handkerchiefs, and cigars are

thrown toward him. These are tossed back except the cigars or any money

that may have been included. If the killing has been poorly made, or in

a bungling manner, hisses replace cheers and boards or chairs may be

thrown instead of hats and cigars. At a fight in Guatemala City I saw one

_matador_ chased out of the ring, and he did not return again during that

performance. This was done after he had made three unsuccessful attempts

to kill the bull and had plunged two swords into the poor, tortured

animal without striking a vital spot.

Then comes the finale. Teams of gaily-decked mules are brought in to

drag out the dead bull and horses. The bloody places are covered over

with sawdust in order to prevent slipping. Even before the dead animals

are removed, the two or three _picadores_ appear on other sorry-looking

steeds, even worse than the first ones if such a thing were possible. The

trumpet sounds, the door flies open and another bull comes rushing in

to meet the same fate as the first. The play begins again with the same

variety of sickening incidents. Others follow in regular order until the

usual number of six bulls have been dispatched. The management is usually

very careful not to promise more than will be performed, for they know

the temper of the audience too well. At a bull-fight in Madrid, which I

attended, the management had promised ten bulls in its posters but the

tickets only called for eight. After the eighth bull had been dispatched

the end was announced, but the crowd refused to leave. All over the vast

amphitheatre rang the cry “_otro toro_” (another bull), repeated over

and over again in one swelling cadence with ever-increasing volume.

The management was obdurate and the multitudes left muttering their

maledictions.

Formerly gentlemen of the court mounted on the finest horses in the

kingdom entered the arena and fought the bull like the knights of old.

Now the sport has degenerated and is performed by professionals hired for

the purpose. I once had the opportunity of witnessing a bull-fight by

the Portuguese method. This is the bull-fight deprived of its disgusting

details. It is even more exciting and dispenses with the killing of both

bull and horses. The men with the red cloaks are employed just the same

but the men who place the _banderillas_ are mounted on horses. They are

not broken-down hacks, but magnificent, well-trained animals and good

care is taken that the bull does not make sausage meat of them. As a

further protection, the points of the bull’s horns are covered with balls

to prevent injury to the horses. Their sport consists in riding past

the bull, and placing the darts without permitting the bull to touch

the horse. It is a feat that requires great skill and a steady nerve.

After the bull is thoroughly tired out, a number of oxen are driven in

the ring, the exhausted bull is taken out and another one brought in to

continue the sport. In any form bull-fighting is bad enough, but if a

line can be drawn between degrees of evil, the method of the Portuguese

is the least to be condemned.

Tauromachy has many devotees who follow the fights in all their features

as the base ball fan watches the sporting page of the American newspaper.

In some places the spectacles are reported in all their most minute

details, even down to the number of minutes it took the bull to die

after receiving the fatal stroke. The killing of bulls is a science

and there are many different schools which have been founded by great

masters. A renowned _matador_ receives as much attention as the champion

prize-fighter in English speaking countries. They receive great sums of

money but are almost invariably improvident and save little. The fights

are not unattended by danger, for deaths are not infrequent and serious

injuries are a common occurrence.

Ladies attend these spectacles and seem to derive as much pleasure as

those who are supposed to be made of sterner stuff. Their black eyes

sparkle with excitement and they shower their appreciation upon the

successful one without reserve. It is the place for dress as the opera

is in other lands. All the gallantry in the Spanish nature comes to the

front on the way to and at the bull-fight. The enthusiasm, the manners,

the expressions—all are distinctly national.

In Mexico the light on the horizon seems to be growing brighter, and the

beginning of the end of this brutal and un-American sport is apparently

in sight. It is not in favour with the present officials in the national

capital and in many of the state capitals. Three of the most important

states absolutely forbid the bull-fights, and heavy penalties are

provided for any violations of the law. Statutes to prohibit them have

been enacted in the federal district on more than one occasion, but they

have been as often repealed so great was the popular demand for them. The

best people do not now attend the performances in the City of Mexico but

this fact has made little diminution in the crowd. Their places are taken

by foreigners resident there, many of whom are among the most ardent

supporters of the sport. I predict that within the next decade there will

be few states in the Republic of Mexico that will permit the bull-fight

within their borders. Such action may curtail a profitable industry and

remove a good market for worn-out horses, but these material losses

will be more than compensated in the development of those elements of

character which can not be measured by the low standard of mere dollars

and cents.

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