CUSTOMS AND CHARACTERISTICS
“A land of lutes and witching tones,
Of silver, onyx, opal stones;
A lazy land, wherein all seems
Enchanted into endless dreams;
And never any need they know,
In Mexico,
“Of life’s unquiet, swift advance,
But slipped into such gracious trance,
The restless world speeds on, unfelt,
Unheeded, as by those who dwelt
In golden ages, long ago,
In Mexico.”
—EVALEEN STEIN.
It is always interesting to know how the rest of the world lives, but an
experience with the customs and characteristics of a people impresses
travellers in widely different ways. Mexico is a land of strange
customs and strong characteristics which are deeply interesting to the
sympathetic tourist. “Oh! the charm of the semi-tropical Spanish life!”
says F. Hopkinson Smith. “The balconies above the patios trellised
with flowers; the swinging hammocks, the slow plash of the fountains;
the odour of jasmine wet with dew; the low thrum of guitar and the soft
moonlight half-revealing the muffled figures in lace and cloak. It is the
same old story, and yet it seems to me it is told in Spanish lands more
delightfully and with more romance, colour and mystery than elsewhere
on the globe.” On the other hand many matter-of-fact, unsympathetic
travellers see only the impractical ways, annoyances and inconvenient
customs like the writer who describes Mexico as “A land of lace and lice
and love, of flowers and fights and fleas; of babies and bull-fights
where pillow slips are open at both ends and where passengers get off the
front end of the street-cars; where keys often six inches in length are
fitted in keyholes turned upside down and invariably turned backward;
where the weather forgets to change from day to day and people sleep
under the same bed cover the year around.”
The Mexican has learned the secret of daily contentment. This is true
generally of the creole class as well as of the peon. The fact that some
seven thousand families practically own the entire landed estate of the
country does not inspire envy in the bosoms of the other millions. It
is a question whether the Anglo-Saxon and the Teuton can give these
people more than mere mechanical contrivances. Home does not necessarily
consist in an open fire, drawn curtains and frequent visits of curious
neighbours. Here homes are found where privacy is respected, family
affection is strong and there is respect for elders, love for parents
and kindly relations between masters and servants. Such a country is not
uncivilized and barbarous. There may be many odd and nonsensical customs
but a reason can generally be found for them. When studying the natives
it is enough to know that they are “an unselfish, patient, tender-hearted
people; a people maintaining in their every-day life an etiquette
phenomenal in a down-trodden race; offering instantly to the stranger
and wayfarer on the very threshold of their adobe huts a hospitality so
generous, accompanied by a courtesy so exquisite, that one stops at the
next doorway to re-enjoy the luxury.”
If one has absolutely nothing to do or suffers from the constitutional
ailment of having been born tired, Mexico is the place for him to rest.
Nor will he be lonesome in the occupation of loafing for on every bench
is a wayfarer for company. There is no Mexicanism more pronounced than
that of procrastination. Never do to-day what can be put off until
to-morrow is the revised motto. Nothing is so important that it cannot
wait until _mañana_ (to-morrow). An American, whom I met in Mexico,
and who had lived there a number of years characterized the country
as the land of _mañana_, _esperase_ and _poco tiempo_, or the land of
“to-morrow” and “wait-a-while.” Time is idled away. Nobody expects you
to be punctual and you are not censured should you fail to keep an
engagement. In fact, “you will probably be designated as a bore should
you insist on scrupulously and punctually keeping all your appointments,
for the man who always meets you on the dot is a nuisance in this
southern land. If you have an appointment with a Mexican at noon, go at
four o’clock in the afternoon and you will probably find him waiting
for you. Had you gone on time, he might have been absent. Never be in a
hurry, for constant hustle and bustle are the unpardonable sins. Respect
the native customs and doze or read for a couple of hours after lunch and
get busy as the sun nears the horizon.” The Mexican pays a compliment
to Anglo-Saxon push by adding _a la Inglesa_ to an appointment which is
intended to be kept punctually or “after the English fashion.” It is
impossible to educate the Mexican to American methods, so it behooves the
foreigner who goes to Mexico to make up his mind to do business after
the standards of that country. However lax or disappointing they may be
he must remember that in Mexico his methods are the strange ones and not
theirs, which are centuries old. In society calls lengthen to visits and
last hours and the hurried five-minute calls are happily unknown. The
longer the stay, the greater the compliment for it means that the visitor
is enjoying herself.
In a country where, until recently, the purchase of a foreign draft
was an all-day operation one cannot expect to do business in a very
strenuous way. The people have breathed the somnolent atmosphere so long
that they cannot be hurried. In fact, in some of the towns, the buzzards
that encircle the town seem to be the only living creatures actually
looking for something to do, for even the dogs would sneak down the alley
to avoid trouble. And yet in the face of all this the Yankee drummer
arrives in a town and scarcely takes time to brush the dust of travel
from his clothes before he starts out to visit his prospective customers.
He expects to round up his orders and take the train on the following
morning for the next town. After running against a few _mañanas_ from
day to day without an opportunity to show his goods he feels about as
disgusted as the enterprising American who, intending to revolutionize
agriculture, took down a large stock of the latest American farming
implements, but after a year’s effort had made no sale. The salesman who
will succeed is not the one who tries to introduce the hurry-up methods
of his own land, but the one who adapts himself to the country and does
not attempt to rush things. It will require days and perhaps weeks to
work a large city.
I met an Englishman in one of these large Spanish-American towns who was
a fair example of the successful European drummer. He had made this route
for years and was thoroughly conversant with the language and understood
the ways of the people. His methods were a good illustration of the
reason why English and German houses have for many decades controlled
trade in Spanish America. They keep their old men on the route as long as
possible, for a new man will not do much on his first trip. We stopped
at the same hotel and I had a good opportunity of observing his business
methods. For several days after arriving in the town he did nothing
but make social calls on his customers, take them to the theatre and
entertain them in a general way. During the next few days he invited
them to his rooms to inspect his stock which was large and varied. Then
he began to take orders. This method seems like a waste of time but
the orders secured were large and well repaid for the time taken. The
American drummer could not have controlled his impatience to be on the
move and would have made a failure. Many who drop into Mexico on a flying
trip, jump to the conclusion that the Mexican merchant is not so shrewd
a business man as the American. They are apt to mistake the deliberate
methods of the Latin race for poor methods. He consumes more time in
placing his order and there is less rush and bustle about his store, but
an experienced man will tell you that in the end he drives a pretty hard
bargain for he knows the market price of the goods and wants the best
discounts and longest credit.
Even the legal customs are peculiar and have proven decidedly
embarrassing to many Americans. A number of years ago, before railroads
were so numerous, the local officers always arrested the engineer and
conductor in the event that any one was killed, and they were thrust
into jail “incommunicado.” This means that you are to be incarcerated
seventy-two hours in solitary confinement without bail, at the end of
which time a judicial examination is given. An American whom I met there
told me of his “incommunicado” experience. He was arrested because he had
witnessed an affray and was held as witness, in solitary confinement, but
was released by the official after the judicious use of thirty dollars.
Their theory is that after a man has been kept in confinement for three
days, with only his own thoughts for company, he is much more likely to
tell the truth than if he had been in communication with his lawyers,
friends and the reporters all that time. And who can deny the truth of
their claim?
It is always best to keep out of the neighbourhood of trouble, or get out
of it as quickly as you can if it comes your way, especially if in the
remote districts, for offender and victim are both liable to arrest and
imprisonment. Most cases are put off from day to day until one party or
the other is weary of the proceeding. An instance which illustrates this
was related to me by a man who was arrested for misdemeanour. Knowing
the custom prevalent in the courts he hired an attorney to appear each
day for him. When the case was called the judge would ask “_Que quiere_”
(what do you want). After the case was explained he would dispose of it
with the simple word _mañana_. The other man appeared each day until
disgusted with the procedure and then dropped the matter. Lawyers charge
so much per word and are paid for each article as it is written. Mexican
notaries are very important personages. They take the place to a great
degree of the old-fashioned, family lawyer. They are regarded in much the
same light as the family confessor and are told the family secrets. To
their credit, be it said, that the notary is usually a man worthy of the
confidence placed in him.
The ceremonial and punctilious politeness of the Mexican, be he Don or
peon, is interesting and oftentimes amusing. The Spaniard on meeting a
friend on the street will stop and inquire one by one after the health
of his wife, each of his children and the various other members of his
household and then in turn will submit to the same interrogations from
his friend. After witnessing such a scene between two men in silk hats
you can turn down a side street and see a meeting between a poor Indian
in rags and an old withered woman selling lottery tickets. Removing his
tattered _sombrero_ he bows gravely, and, in the softest of Spanish,
says, “_A los pies de usted, señora_” (at your feet, lady). This is
done with a grace and ease of manner worthy of any station in life; and
her answer “My hands are for your kisses, señor,” is said in the same
gracious way worthy of a duchess. Should you ask the man for his name he
would be sure to add “_Su criado de usted_” (your servant).
The Mexicans are very proud and exclusive, and suspicious of the
newcomer. Seldom indeed is it that an American gains the _entree_ into
their homes but, if he succeeds, they will be found among the most
charming hosts in the world. This reserve is probably very natural. The
Mexican has been educated in the strict Catholic schools and is a victim
of custom old as his country, while the American coming to Mexico is a
mercenary, ambitious person engaged in commercial strife and in the race
for the almighty dollar. Then, the American is of a more matter-of-fact
temperament and does not appreciate the impulsive nature of the Mexican.
Money does not appeal to him except for the pleasure of spending it, and
no person is more lavish in the expenditure of money, if he has it, than
a Mexican gentleman.
The Mexican is a home lover and yet there is no word in the Spanish
language that corresponds to our word for home. _Casa_, or house, is
the nearest to it and the Mexican always speaks of his house when he
means his home. The exaggerated conventionalities are often carried to
the verge of the absurd. Perhaps there may be as much truth in their
expressions as in the polite but oftentimes meaningless civilities of
our own land. An American, on being introduced to a stranger, will feel
that he has satisfied the etiquette of the occasion by simply expressing
his pleasure in the acquaintance. The Mexican goes a step further and
presents the newly-made acquaintance with his house.
“_Su casa es numero ——_,” he says with a graceful bow giving the street
and number of his own house, which literally means “your house is number
——,” and usually adds, “It is entirely at your disposal; make yourself
at home.” It is simply a polite way of saying “I am glad to meet you.”
Perhaps five minutes later the incident is forgotten by the giver. One
writer has said that he met fourteen men at a club in Mexico and was
presented with thirteen houses. The fourteenth man was unmarried and not
a householder. Occasionally some one not familiar with the emptiness of
the phrase has presumed on its literal interpretation and called at one
of the houses presented to him but has been turned away without the least
sign of recognition.
If one expresses admiration for some article worn by another, he is
quickly informed that the article is “at his disposal.” If you happen
upon a Mexican at the dining hour, he will probably offer you his dinner.
If you decline it, the occasion requires that you should do so with
polite wishes for his digestion. These forms of hospitality are derived
from Spanish ancestors and were by them probably copied from the Moors,
after the open hand and open tent customs of the sons of the desert who
meant these expressions literally. It has an empty meaning now, for
nothing is left but the words. With all this seeming inconsistency and
insincerity, the Mexicans are exceedingly kind hearted and will willingly
do favours if approached in the right way; no service is too great
towards those for whom they have formed an attachment. They will often
accompany the departing guest for a long distance over hard roads as a
mark of courtesy and friendship.
We are all victims of habit more or less. But, whereas the American
welcomes innovations and adapts his habits to them, or forms new ones,
the Mexican does not want any change from the customs of his ancestors.
The expression “_no es costumbre_,” meaning it is not the custom, is a
final and decisive answer that does not admit of argument. You might as
well try to change the colour of the native as his habits. Americans
who keep Mexican servants are for ever running contrary to the customs
or prejudices of their help. For instance an American woman[2] who
lived here a number of years relates the trouble she had to induce her
servant to use a cook stove which she had imported from the United
States. She refused because “it would give her disease of the liver.” In
all seriousness she believed that such would be the result and nothing
could induce her to have anything to do with the new-fangled thing. A
peripatetic merchant came around selling eggs at six for a real. He
refused to sell two dozen for four reals because “_no es costumbre_,” as
eggs are always sold at six for a real, an incontrovertible argument.
[Illustration: MAKING _TORTILLAS_]
A household will have difficulty in getting along with only one servant
for it is customary to employ three or four in a small family and from
twenty to forty in a large house. Each servant will do his or her own
particular work cheerfully and will move about so lightly and airily that
you hardly know any one is around. However, ask the man _mozo_ to scrub
the floor, or the cook to make the beds, and you will see a regretful
look of the eye and be met with the ready answer, “_no es costumbre_.”
Marketing is a right jealously guarded too, for _es costumbre_ (it is the
custom) and one of the perquisites of the man servant, since he receives
a small fee from each person of whom purchases are made. The Indian
servants are not accustomed to beds and want nothing but a mat to sleep
upon. The traveller can see these in the halls at the hotel if he comes
in a little late. Here these dusky natives sleep more soundly than do
most Americans on the most luxurious of beds. An American lady in Oaxaca
took pity on her girl servant and bought a comfortable iron bed for her
to occupy. She then explained to her how the bed was used. Several days
later she asked the servant how she liked her bed. The girl said it was
fine—to lay her clothes on. The American woman finally gave up trying
to change the habits of her maid. Servants become very devoted to their
employers and their attachment is sometimes embarrassing. In case of a
death in the family they immediately don black and mourn as though the
lost one was a near relative of their own.
The economy of housekeeping and especially of the kitchen, even among
the rich, is remarkable. The Indian or _Mestiza_ women rule here and
the customs of a thousand years ago are the customs of to-day. The
_tortillas_, cakes made of maize, are the bread of the country. For
centuries these dusky women of Mexico have ground the corn for their
daily bread between two stones, the grains having first been soaked for
several hours in a solution of lime water. This smoothed, dished-out
stone is called a _metate_, an Aztec word, and the women work for hours
in beating the softened grains to a fine paste. Small pieces of the dough
are then worked between the hands, tossed and patted, and flattened out
until very thin. After this they are thrown upon a flat, iron griddle
over a charcoal fire. They are never allowed to brown and are without
salt or seasoning of any kind. After becoming used to them they prove
very palatable and many prefer them to the ordinary corn bread.
_Frijoles_, or beans, and generally black ones, are also invariably
served and are eaten twice every day without intermission on the table of
rich or poor. The _chili_, a pretty hot sort of pepper, is a favourite
dish that had better be avoided by the Americans, for the ability to
relish it can only be approached by degrees. _Tamales_ are relished by
the Mexican and can be found for sale in almost any of the markets. I
never see _tamales_ without thinking of the description given of them by
a big Texan in his bread dialect, in answer to a question from me as the
train was speeding across the mesquit prairies near San Antonio. “You
take cawn meal, some hawt (heart), livah and a little peppah and you make
a tamahle, suh.”
The use of sacred names or names of great personages among these people
is often astonishing. The names of Porfirio Diaz, Juarez and Hidalgo are
as numerous as the George Washingtons among the negroes of the south.
However, when the American stumbles upon a Pius Fifth, St. John the
Evangelist or even Jesus, in a dirty-face brown man clothed in rags, it
seems a strange incongruity. Talk with this humble bearer of a sacred
name or offer him a gratuity, and, as you depart, he will say, “_Vaya
usted con Dios_” (go, and God be with you), in such a simple and benign
manner that you almost feel as though a benediction were following you.
We are told by the early writers that the Aztecs had few stores, but
that nearly all the trading was done in the markets which were found in
every city, or by the great merchant princes who traversed the country
with their large army of burden-bearers and retainers, compelling
trade as well as seeking it. It is interesting to note the description
of the market in the capital in the time of Cortez written by Bernal
Diaz, one of his followers, and the historian of his expedition. He
expresses his astonishment at the great crowds of people, the regularity
which prevailed and the vast quantities of merchandise on display.
“The articles consisted of gold, silver, jewels, feathers, mantles,
chocolate, skins dressed and undressed, sandals, and great numbers of
male and female slaves, some of whom were fastened by the neck, in
collars, to long poles. The meat market was stocked with fowls, game and
dogs. Vegetables, fruits, articles of food ready dressed, salt, bread,
honey and sweet pastry made in various ways, were also sold here.
Other places in the square were appointed to the sale of earthen ware,
wooden household furniture such as tables and benches, firewood, pipes,
sweet canes filled with tobacco mixed with liquid amber, copper axes
and working tools, and wooden vessels highly painted. Numbers of women
sold fish and little loaves made of a certain mud which they find in the
lakes, and which resembles cheese. The entire square was enclosed in
piazzas under which great quantities of grain were stored and where were
also shops for various kinds of goods.”
[Illustration: A MEXICAN MARKET]
This description would answer very well to-day except as to slaves and
feathers. It is to be regretted that the beautiful feather work of that
race is a lost art. The market of the capital is located but a short
distance from the plaza and is an excellent place to study life. The
outer portion is occupied by small shops covered with protecting piazzas
but the central part is wholly occupied by the Indian merchants. During
the morning hours it is so closely packed that it is almost impossible
to force one’s way through the dense throng of humanity. The native,
squatted on the ground on a rush mat, with another mat suspended over him
for protection from the fierce sun, and his stock in trade spread before
him, is a picture worth studying. Many tribes are represented, as their
dress indicates, as well as the products of many different zones from the
cocoanut of the hot lands to the inferior pears of the cold zone. The
pottery from Guadalajara can be distinguished from that of Guadalupe or
Aguas Calientes by its colour and design. Each piece might tell a history
of an art passed down from father to son for countless generations, for
the son usually follows the occupation of his father. They never think
of changing method of manufacture or design. It is quite probable that
the pottery seen in the market to-day is the same as that viewed by
Cortez. Many of the vessels are curious and fantastic in form but always
ornamental in decoration. When one considers that much of this pottery
is made with no tools but pieces of broken glass and a horsehair, the
result is a marvel. With the hair they trim the top and with the glass
smooth off the rough places. The pottery market is an important one, for
articles used in the kitchen and on the tables of the poorer classes are
exclusively of this ware. For a small sum an entire kitchen outfit can be
purchased.
There are few Jewish merchants in Mexico for the Mexican is even more
persuasive in his mode of selling and his prices are fully as elastic.
In purchasing native articles on different occasions I tried several
dealers in order to discover whether they had a uniform bottom price.
They would invariably ask at least twice as much as they were willing
to accept. I found that if one would only show surprise at the price
asked, the question “What will you give” would immediately follow. They
were perfectly willing to get as much from you as possible but the
lowest price quoted by the various dealers was almost identical. Some
persons have facetiously characterized Mexico as the land of “_no hay_”
(pronounced eye) because it is such a common answer in marketing and
means “there is none.” In fact, the answer will always be “_no hay_” or
“_si, hay_” (yes, I have).
[Illustration: CANDY BOY AND GIRL]
There are many quaint and curious characters that one will find around
the market place. The candy man, or, boy, moves around with noiseless
tread crying his wares in a song which never varies any more than his
stock, which is always the same and arranged in exactly the same way. His
_dulces_, however, have merit and it is not necessary to change anything
already good. The _evangelista_, or letter writer, is here with a jug
of ink and pen on a little table ready to write a business letter, or
a _billet doux_ flaming with passion and extravagant phrases for the
unlettered lover. On the corners of the street may be seen the cobblers
ready to cut and fit sandals “while you wait.” His whole stock in trade
consists of a pile of scraps of sole leather and some leather thongs,
while his only tool is a curved, sharp knife.
In and out of the crowd the faithful _aguador_, or water-carrier, winds
his way bringing the refreshing water to thirsty mortals. He is not only
a very necessary person in this land of little rain, but is a person of
importance and knows the inner life of the household of his customers.
His costume and water vessels vary in the different cities but he is the
same honest character who ingeniously carries the love messages from
the “bear” to his inamorata. After a morning of hard work his faithful
wife brings his dinner of _tortillas_ and _frijoles_ to the fountain or
well, and there he sits and eats his humble meal while she watches her
lord and master until he has finished. Later in the day, tiring of his
work or feeling the burden of prosperity as his stock of copper coins
increases, he resorts to the pulque-shop and there shows his contempt for
the beverage he has been distributing by imbibing large quantities of
his favourite liquor.
Perhaps in no way is the general superstition and ignorance of the Indian
shown to better advantage than in their ideas of disease and medicine.
The _curandera_, usually a woman, admits having great knowledge of
anatomy and chemistry, and has a pharmacopœia all her own. The accounts
given here are vouched for by a writer in _Modern Mexico_ who is a native
of the country, understands these people and is entitled to belief.
_Aire_ (air), when introduced into the system through blows or unusually
forcible sneezing, causes swellings, sore eyes and nervous tremblings. It
is treated with plasters and bandages and lotions. When the alimentary
canal is obstructed it is _empacho_, which means that undigested food
has adhered to the stomach or the food has formed into balls and marbles
that rattle around inside the stomach or intestines. This disease demands
immediate and heroic treatment, and a drop of quicksilver swallowed at a
gulp is prescribed and will generally dislodge it or kill the patient.
_Tiricia_ is indicated by homesickness, melancholia or insomnia, and
is caused by a subtle vapour produced by the action of the moon on the
dew and is absorbed through the pores. Change of climate, good company
and tonics are a sensible prescription. _Mal de ojo_, or the evil eye,
causes the sufferer to fade away or die of inanition, and is a common
disease of children. Bright attractive objects are hung up to draw away
the attention of the “evil eye.” If a child is slow in talking, a diet
of boiled swallows is prescribed. One writer positively asserts that
blue and red beads ground fine and mixed in equal portions have been
given to persons suffering with paralysis, and the sufferers survived the
treatment. The _curandera_ is also called upon to mix love potions and
poisons that will cause delirium or even insanity and death.
Another instance is told in the same periodical of a woman who was
very sick with a disease from the effects of which she was practically
helpless. A _curandera_ had told the husband to get a white turkey and
tie it in the house and his wife would get well. When the turkey had
failed to cure her an old man _curandero_ was procured, who promised to
make her well if supplied with plenty of _aguardiente_ (brandy). Four
dollars worth was supplied him, and four dollars will buy a great deal
of poor brandy in Mexico. The old man laid himself down on the ground,
after filling himself up with the fire-water, pounded his head and kept
repeating weird incantations which could be heard a long distance away.
This was continued for several days until the supply of spirits gave out.
In the meantime the patient had improved somewhat and could use her arms
and body as far as the waist. The shrewd old man shrugged his shoulders
and said, “I have cured her as far as I can. You will have to get a
_curandera_ to complete the cure.” The poor woman soon died, because, as
the husband declared, she had been bewitched.