CHAPTER I

Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this

file which includes the original illustrations.

See 60135-h.htm or 60135-h.zip:

(https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/60135/pg60135-images.html)

or

(https://www.gutenberg.org/files/60135/60135-h.zip)

Images of the original pages are available through

Internet Archive. See

https://archive.org/details/mexicoherpeopleo02wint

MEXICO AND HER PEOPLE OF TO-DAY

* * * * * *

Uniform with This Volume

Panama and the Canal $3.00

BY FORBES LINDSAY

Cuba and Her People of To-day 3.00

BY FORBES LINDSAY

Brazil and Her People of To-day 3.00

BY NEVIN O. WINTER

Guatemala and Her People of To-day 3.00

BY NEVIN O. WINTER

Mexico and Her People of To-day 3.00

BY NEVIN O. WINTER

Argentina and Her People of To-day 3.00

BY NEVIN O. WINTER

Bohemia and the Čechs 3.00

BY WILL S. MONROE

In Viking Land. Norway: Its Peoples, Its Fjords

and Its Fjelds 3.00

BY WILL S. MONROE

Turkey and the Turks 3.00

BY WILL S. MONROE

Sicily, the Garden of the Mediterranean 3.00

BY WILL S. MONROE

In Wildest Africa 3.00

BY PETER MACQUEEN

L. C. PAGE & COMPANY

53 Beacon Street, Boston, Mass.

* * * * * *

[Illustration: A BELLE OF TEHUANTEPEC (_See page 180_)]

MEXICO AND HER PEOPLE OF TO-DAY

An Account of the

Customs, Characteristics, Amusements,

History and Advancement

of the Mexicans, and the Development

and Resources of Their

Country

by

NEVIN O. WINTER

Illustrated from Original Photographs

by the

Author and C. R. Birt

New Revised Edition

[Illustration]

Boston

L. C. Page and Company

MDCCCCXII

Copyright, 1907,

by L. C. Page & Company

(Incorporated)

Copyright, 1912,

by L. C. Page & Company

(Incorporated)

Entered at Stationers’ Hall, London

All rights reserved

Second Impression, May, 1908

Third Impression, June, 1910

New Revised Edition, January, 1912

Electrotyped and Printed by

The Colonial Press

C. H. Simonds & Co., Boston, U.S.A.

TO

My Mother

AND THE MEMORY OF

My Father

PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION

Since the first publication of “Mexico and Her People of To-day,” Mexico

has seen stirring times, and there has been a radical change in the

government. Revolution again broke forth, and the long dictatorship

of Porfirio Diaz has ended. These conditions have made advisable a

completely revised edition of this work, which the public and the press

have stamped with their approval to a degree that has been most pleasing.

To both public and press the author desires to return his most sincere

thanks, and he has in this revision endeavoured to be as accurate and

painstaking as in the original preparation. Furthermore, another trip

to that most interesting country has enabled the author to give a

description of a section but briefly treated in the previous edition.

New appendices have been added, consisting of a bibliography and a few

suggestions for those contemplating a trip to Mexico.

NEVIN O. WINTER.

TOLEDO, OHIO, _January, 1912_.

PREFACE

Many books have been written about Mexico, but several of the best works

were written a quarter of a century ago and are now out of print. This

fact and the developments of the past few years leads the author to

believe that there is a field for another book on that most interesting

country; a book that should present in readable form reliable information

concerning the customs and characteristics of the people of Mexico, as

well as the great natural resources of the country and their present

state of development, or lack of development.

It has been the aim of the author to make a complete and accurate

presentation of the subject rather than to advance radical views

concerning and harsh criticism of our next-door neighbours. With

this idea in mind he has read nearly every prominent work on Mexico

and Mexican history, as well as other current periodical literature

concerning that country during the two years devoted to the preparation

of this volume. It is hoped that the wide range of subjects, covering

the customs, habits, amusements, history, antiquities, and resources

will render the volume of value to any one interested in Mexico and her

progress.

If this volume shall aid in any way to a better understanding of Mexico

by Americans, or in furthering the present progressive movement in that

country, then the author will feel amply repaid for the months of labour

devoted to its preparation.

The author wishes to make special acknowledgment of obligation to his

friend Mr. C. R. Birt, his companion during the greater part of his

travels through Mexico, and to whose artistic sense in selection and

grouping the excellence of many of the photographs herewith reproduced is

due.

TOLEDO, OHIO, _September, 1907_.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. AZTEC LAND 1

II. ACROSS THE PLATEAUS 22

III. THE CAPITAL 46

IV. THE VALLEY OF ANAHUAC 74

V. THE TROPICS 90

VI. A GLIMPSE OF THE ORIENTAL IN THE OCCIDENT 111

VII. THE ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC 128

VIII. IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE ANCIENTS 144

IX. WOMAN AND HER SPHERE 162

X. THE PEON 183

XI. CUSTOMS AND CHARACTERISTICS 201

XII. HOLIDAYS AND HOLY-DAYS 225

XIII. A TRANSPLANTED SPORT 243

XIV. EDUCATION AND THE ARTS 257

XV. MINES AND MINING 274

XVI. RAILWAYS AND THEIR INFLUENCE 290

XVII. RELIGIOUS FORCES 308

XVIII. PASSING OF THE LAWLESS 328

XIX. THE STORY OF THE REPUBLIC 343

XX. THE GUIDING HAND 369

XXI. THE REVOLUTION OF 1910 396

XXII. THE SIERRAS AND BEYOND 415

XXIII. THE RUINED CITIES OF YUCATAN 438

XXIV. THE PRESENT AND THE FUTURE 456

APPENDICES 479

INDEX 485

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

A BELLE OF TEHUANTEPEC (_See page 180_) _Frontispiece_

SNOW-CAPPED POPOCATAPETL 4

GENERAL MAP OF MEXICO 6

AN INDIAN MAIDEN 10

“THE LAND OF BURROS AND _SOMBREROS_” 22

MARKET SCENE IN SAN LUIS POTOSI 30

COCK-FIGHTING IN MEXICO 33

THE _MAGUEY_ 41

MAP OF THE VALLEY OF MEXICO 46

THE PATIO OF AN OLD RESIDENCE 48

THE CATHEDRAL 60

A PICTURESQUE PULQUE SHOP 66

THE CALENDAR STONE 77

SCENES ON THE VIGA CANAL 82

CASTLE OF CHAPULTEPEC 86

BRIDGE AT ORIZABA.—THE BUZZARDS OF VERA CRUZ.—AVENUE OF PALMS,

VERA CRUZ 98

AN INDIAN HOME IN THE HOT COUNTRY 104

RICE CULTURE 109

THE AQUEDUCT, OAXACA.—A FOUNTAIN IN OAXACA 116

THE MARKET-WOMEN OF OAXACA.—THE POTTERY-MARKET, OAXACA 118

CROSSING THE RIVER ON MARKET-DAY 121

THE MARKET, TEHUANTEPEC 132

ENTRANCE TO THE UNDERGROUND CHAMBER, MITLA.—NORTH TEMPLE,

MITLA.—HALL OF THE MONOLITHS, MITLA 157

A ZAPOTECO WOMAN 161

“PLAYING THE BEAR” 170

WASHING ON THE BANKS OF A STREAM 177

A PEON AND HIS WIFE 184

A CARGADOR 198

MAKING _TORTILLAS_ 215

A MEXICAN MARKET 218

CANDY BOY AND GIRL 220

BURNING AN EFFIGY OF JUDAS AT EASTER-TIME 233

CANDLE BOOTHS IN GUADALUPE 240

BEGGARS OF THE CITY OF MEXICO 242

PLANTING THE _BANDERILLAS_ 250

AN AZTEC SCHOOLGIRL 266

PEON MINERS AT LUNCH 280

ALONG THE MEXICAN SOUTHERN RAILWAY 300

WAYSIDE SHRINE WITH AN OFFERING OF FLOWERS 312

A _RURALE_ 332

ARMY HEADQUARTERS, CITY OF MEXICO 336

A VILLAGE CHURCH 364

A COMPANY OF _RURALES_ 370

SR. DON FRANCISCO I. MADERO 411

A GROUP OF PEONS 419

TARAHUMARI INDIANS 421

CRUMBLING RUINS OF THE ANCIENT MEXICAN CIVILIZATION 441

AN OLD CHURCH 451

PRIMITIVE TRANSPORTATION 457

PRIMITIVE PLOUGHING NEAR OAXACA 465

MEXICO AND HER PEOPLE TO-DAY

CHAPTER I

AZTEC LAND

Prescott says: “Of all that extensive empire which once acknowledged

the authority of Spain in the New World, no portion for interest and

importance, can be compared with Mexico;—and this equally, whether we

consider the variety of its soil and climate; the inexhaustible stores of

its mineral wealth; its scenery, grand and picturesque beyond example;

the character of its ancient inhabitants, not only far surpassing in

intelligence that of the other North American races, but reminding us, by

their monuments, of the primitive civilization of Egypt and Hindoostan;

or, lastly, the peculiar circumstances of its conquest, adventurous and

romantic as any legend devised by Norman or Italian bard of chivalry.”

Mexico is a country in which the old predominates. The American visitor

will bring back more distinct recollections of the Egyptian carts and

plows, the primitive manners and customs, than he will of the evidences

of modern civilization. An educated Mexican whom I met, chided the

Americans for this tendency, for, said he, “all that is written of Mexico

is descriptive of the Indians and their habits, while progressive Mexico

is ignored.” This is to a great extent true, for it is the unique and

ancient that attracts and holds the attention of the traveller. For this

reason tourists go to Egypt to see the pyramids, sphinx and tombs of the

Pharaohs.

It is not necessary for the traveller to venture out upon perilous seas

to see mute evidences of a life older than printed record. In this land

of ancient civilization and primitive customs, there are cities which

stand out like oriental pearls transplanted to the Occident from the

shores of the Red Sea. Here in Mexico can be found pyramids which are

no mean rivals to those great piles on the Egyptian deserts; crumbling

ruins of tombs, and palaces, and temples, ornamented in arabesque and

grecque designs, not unlike the structures along the banks of the mighty

Nile; and the same primitive implements of husbandry which we have

viewed so often in the pages of the large family Bible. Then, as an

additional attraction, there is the actual presence of the aborigines,

Aztec, Zapotec, and Chichimec, speaking the same language, observing the

same ceremonies, and following the same customs which were old when the

foreigners came.

There is no history to enlighten us as to the age of these monuments,

and there are few hieroglyphics to be deciphered upon which a Rosetta

Stone might shed light. The student is led to wonder whether the Egyptian

civilization antedated the Mexican, or whether the former is simply the

Mexican learning and skill transplanted to the Orient and there modified

and improved. It is quite possible, that, while our own ancestors were

still barbarians, and little better than savages, swarming over northern

Europe, the early races in Mexico had developed a civilization advanced

and progressive. They knew how to build monuments which in masonry and

carving teach us lessons to-day. They made beautiful pottery and artistic

vessels, and they used gold for money and ornaments.

Notwithstanding the fact that for a thousand miles the republics of

Mexico and the United States join, the average American knows less

concerning Mexico than he does of many European countries; and it is much

misunderstood as well as misrepresented. Mexico possesses the strongest

possible attractions for the tourist. Its scenic wonders are unsurpassed

in any other part of the globe in natural picturesqueness; and no country

in Europe presents an aspect more unfamiliar and strange to American

eyes, or exceeds it in historic interest.

Vast mountains including snow-capped Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl, the

loftiest peaks on the American continent, are seen here amid scenes

of tropical beauty and luxuriance. Great cities are found with their

customs and characteristics almost unchanged since they were built by the

Spaniards; and there are still more ancient cities and temples which were

built by prehistoric races.

[Illustration: SNOW-CAPPED POPOCATAPETL]

It is a land of tradition and romance, and of picturesque contrasts.

At almost every turn there is something new, unique, interesting, and

even startling. It has all the climates from the torrid zone to regions

of perpetual snow on the summits of the lofty volcanic peaks, and is

capable of producing nearly every fruit found between the equator and

the Arctic circle. The softness and sweetness of the air; the broken

and ever-varying line of rugged hills against a matchless sky; the

beautiful views between the mountain ranges; the care-free life which

is omnipresent each add their charm to the composite picture. Dirt is

everywhere and poverty abounds, but even these are removed from the

commonplace by the brilliant colour on every hand.

F. Hopkinson Smith in “A White Umbrella in Mexico” epitomizes this

marvellously attractive country as follows: “A land of white sunshine,

redolent with flowers; a land of gay costumes, crumbling churches, and

old convents; a land of kindly greetings, of extreme courtesy, of open,

broad hospitality. It was more than enough to revel in an Italian sun,

lighting up a semi-tropical land; to look up to white-capped peaks,

towering into blue; to look down upon wind-swept plains, encircled by

ragged chains of mountains; to catch the sparkle of miniature cities,

jewelled here and there in oases of olive and orange; and to realize

that to-day, in its varied scenery, costumes, architecture, street life,

canals crowded with flower-laden boats, market plazas thronged with

gaily-dressed natives, faded church interiors, and abandoned convents,

Mexico is the most marvellously picturesque country under the sun. A

tropical Venice! A semi-barbarous Spain! A new Holy Land.”

Mexico contains a greater area than is generally understood. It is shaped

very much like a cornucopia with an extreme length of nineteen hundred

miles, a breadth of seven hundred and fifty miles, and an area of nearly

eight hundred thousand square miles. At its narrowest point, the Isthmus

of Tehuantepec, it is only one hundred and twenty-five miles across

from ocean to ocean. There is a double range of mountains, one near the

Pacific coast and the other near the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, between

which lie the great table lands, or plateaus, which constitute a large

part of the surface.

[Illustration]

Three distinct climates are found in Mexico determined by altitude.

Those regions six thousand feet or more above sea level are called the

_tierras frias_, or cold lands. This is only a relative term, for the

cold does not correspond with that of our own northern states. Though

termed “cold,” the mean temperature is not lower than that of Central

Italy. Those lands lying at an altitude of six thousand feet, down to

three thousand feet, above sea level are termed the _tierras templadas_,

or temperate lands. This is a region of perpetual humidity and is

semi-tropical in its vegetation and temperature. An altitude from four

thousand to six thousand feet in Mexico gives a most delightful climate.

Along both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts there is a more or less

broad tract called the _tierra caliente_, or hot land, which is a truly

tropical region. Forests of dense growth cover the soil, so thick that it

is impossible to penetrate them without blazing your way as you go, and

in the midst of which tower trees of magnificent size, such as are to be

seen only in the tropics. Here it is that nature is over-prodigal in her

gifts; and here it is that the _vomito_, as yellow fever is called, lurks

with fatal effect. The winds from the sea generally mitigate the fierce

heat, especially if one can remain out of the sun during the middle

of the day. Sometimes these winds on the Atlantic coast acquire great

velocity, and burst forth upon the unprotected shores with terrific fury

as the so-called “northers.” There is no true winter here, but there is a

rainy season from June to October, and a dry season from November to May,

the former being the colder.

“In the course of a few hours,” says Prescott, “the traveller may

experience every gradation of climate, embracing torrid heat and glacial

cold, and pass through different zones of vegetation including wheat and

the sugar-cane, the ash and the palm, apples, olives, and guavas.” The

dwellings vary also. In the hot lands the habitations are constructed

of bamboo and light poles open to sun and wind, for the only shelter

needed is protection from the elements; in the temperate region the huts

are made of heavier poles, and are somewhat more durable; in the higher

lands they are built of adobe or stone. Sugar cane and coffee, and even

the banana, will grow up to four thousand feet. Wheat grows best at six

thousand feet and pines commence here too. At seven thousand feet cactus

appears, and the _maguey_, ushering in an entirely different zone. Mexico

is a country of extremes of heat and cold, poverty and riches, filth and

cleanliness, education and extreme ignorance.

Every schoolboy knows of Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond in bonnie Scotland,

and most people are familiar with the location of Lago di Como, in Italy.

And yet I should not be surprised if fair-sized towns could be found in

the United States where no one could tell whether such a body of water

as Lake Chapala existed or not. As a matter of fact it is ten times

as large as all the lakes of Northern Italy combined; and it embraces

islands larger than the entire surface of Loch Lomond. Its steely

blue waters and rugged shores need only the magic pen of the novelist

or poet to tell of its beauties and invest each nook and glen with

romance, and the charming villas of Como to make Chapala as picturesque

and fascinating as those better known lakes. It is almost a hundred

miles long and thirty-three miles wide at the widest point, and covers

fourteen hundred square miles. Patzcuaro and Cuitzeo are also lakes of

considerable size near Chapala, and all of them are six thousand feet

or more above sea level. They only await development and advertising to

become popular resorts.

The vast majority of the inhabitants of Mexico are descendants of Indian

races who were found there by the Spanish conquerors, and mixtures

of those natives with European settlers. Of the fourteen millions of

inhabitants only about nineteen per cent. are white; of the remainder,

forty-three per cent. are Indians and thirty-eight per cent. mixed. There

is a greater resemblance of the Mexican Indians to the Malay races of

Asia than to the American Indians. Their intensely black hair and eyes,

brown complexion, small stature, and even a slight obliquity of the eyes

bear a strong resemblance to the Japanese. I have seen it stated that,

if a Japanese is dressed in Mexican costume, and a Mexican in Japanese

dress, it is difficult to tell which is the Jap and which the Mexican.

Students of languages say that there is a strong similarity between the

Mexican tongues and oriental languages. The different tribes do not

mingle much and seldom intermarry, and this fact may contribute to their

physical deterioration.

[Illustration: AN INDIAN MAIDEN]

Whence came this people? No one can answer. It is generally supposed that

the Aztecs came from what are now the south-western states of the Union,

and wandered into the Valley of Mexico. They were defeated by the tribes

then dwelling there, and sought refuge on the shores of Lake Texcoco.

There they beheld a golden eagle of great size and beauty resting on a

prickly cactus and devouring a serpent which it held in its talons, and

with its wings outstretched toward the rising sun. This was the sign for

which they had been looking, and there they proceeded to erect their

capital. They first built houses of rushes and reeds in the shallow

water and lived upon fish, and constructed floating gardens. As the

waters receded somewhat they built more durable structures, including

great palaces and temples. They extended their sway over neighbouring

races beyond the Valley and conquered tribe after tribe, although never

claiming dominion over more than a small portion of the present confines

of Mexico. The legend of the eagle and the cactus is still preserved in

the coat-of-arms of the present republic.

Of the Aztecs and their history prior to the conquest little is known,

except that the country was called Anahuac. Prescott has made his

“Conquest of Mexico” as fascinating as a novel, but he has shown the

romantic side based upon knowledge of the most fragmentary character. The

writings which pass for history were either written by bigoted priests

who could not see anything good in an idolatrous people, and who, to

please the leaders, painted the Aztecs in blackest colours to justify the

cruel measures taken, or they were written by Spaniards who never visited

the country of which they presumed to write. As it has been said, “a

most gorgeous superstructure of fancy has been raised upon a very meagre

foundation of fact.” Their civilization was in many respects marvellous

and far ahead of that of any other race on the western hemisphere. Under

the Montezumas they had grown into a powerful nation, and their rule was

one of barbaric splendour and luxury.

The Aztecs succeeded an older race called the Toltecs who were also far

advanced in civilization. They were nature worshippers and not only did

not indulge in human sacrifices, but were averse to war and detested

falsehood and treachery. A Toltec noble is said to have instructed his

son after the following manner before sending him away from home: “Never

tell a falsehood, because a lie is a grievous sin! Speak ill of nobody.

Be not dissolute, for thereby thou wilt incense the gods, and they

will cover thee with infamy. Steal not, nor give thyself up to gaming;

otherwise thou wilt be a disgrace to thy parents, whom thou oughtest

rather to honour, for the education they have given thee. If thou wilt be

virtuous, thy example will put the wicked to shame.”

Both of these races were also great builders and sculptors and had

cultivated the art of picture-writing. They were well housed, decently

clothed, made cloth, enjoyed vapour baths, maintained schools, and had a

large assortment of household gods. They mined some, and in agriculture,

at least, were far ahead of the Mexicans of to-day.

The vandalism of the Spaniards in destroying the writings and other

records of the early races is rebuked by Prescott as follows: “We

contemplate with indignation the cruelties inflicted by the early

conquerors. But indignation is qualified with contempt when we see them

thus ruthlessly trampling out the sparks of knowledge, the common boon

and property of mankind. We may well doubt which has the strongest claim

to civilization, the victor or the vanquished.”

The Mexico of to-day cannot be understood without looking for a

moment at its settlement and the manner of the conquest. The Spanish

_conquistadores_ who flocked to these shores with Cortez were a different

race from those early settlers, who, persecuted and denied liberty of

conscience in the land of their birth, sought a new home on our own

hospitable shores. With the union of the crowns of Castille and Aragon

by the marriage of Ferdinand and Isabella, and the discovery of the New

World, Spain had suddenly leaped to the front, and become, for a time at

least, the greatest nation of the day. Ships were constructed in great

numbers and sent out, filled with voyagers, “towards that part of the

horizon where the sun set.”

In the sixteenth century she had practically become the mistress of the

seas and the most powerful nation in the world. Her soldiers were brave

and the acknowledged leaders of chivalry, but the curse of the Spaniards

was their thirst for gold, and her decay was rapid. When Cortez and his

band of adventurers came to the court of Montezuma, and saw the lavish

display of vessels and ornaments made of the precious metal, they thought

they had discovered the land of gold for which they were searching.

Attracted by the glowing reports of untold wealth, thousands of Spaniards

soon followed the first bands of _conquistadores_, and they rapidly

spread over the entire country occupied by the Aztecs, ever searching

for the mines from whence this golden harvest came. While the leaders

were imprisoning and torturing the Aztec chieftains to force them to give

up the hiding places of their treasures, the priests, who everywhere

accompanied the soldiers, were baptizing thousands into the new faith and

using the confessional for the same end. Thus religious bigotry and the

mania for worldly riches went side by side, and ever ringing in the ears

of both priest and warrior was the refrain:

“Gold! Gold! Gold! Gold!

Bright and yellow, hard and cold.”

Shortly after the conquest all the desirable lands were parcelled out

among the invaders and the few Indian _caciques_ who had helped, with

their powerful influence, in their subjugation. The Spaniards rapidly

pacified the country, for the Aztec masses, however warlike they may have

been before the coming of the Spaniards, were subdued by one blow. They

were soon convinced that opposition to the power of Spain was useless.

The priests, also, through their quickly acquired influence, taught

submission to those whom God, in His infinite wisdom, had placed over

them. Chiefs who would not yield otherwise were bribed to use their power

over their vassals in favour of the Spaniards. Thus by force, bribery,

intrigue, diplomacy, treachery, and even religion, the Indians were

reconciled and the spirit of opposition to the Spaniards broken. The

result was a new and upstart nobility who ruled the country with an iron

hand in the course of a few decades; and the natives, with the exception

of the chiefs, were made vassals of these newly made nobles.

An era of building followed, in which great palaces after the _grandiose_

ideas of Spain were constructed by Indian workmen. Churches were built

with lavish hand, for these nobles thought to atone for their many

misdeeds by constructing and dedicating places of worship to Almighty

God, who, according to the teaching of the priest, was the God of the

poor, oppressed Indian as well as the God of the haughty Spaniard who

had enslaved him. As one writer has said: “When John Smith and his

followers were looking for gold mines in Virginia and the Pilgrims were

planting corn in Massachusetts, an empire had been founded and built up

on the same continent by the Spaniards, and the most stupendous system

of plunder the world ever saw was then and there in vigorous operation.”

Cortez was searching for “a people who had much gold” of which he had

heard. It was not God but gold that drew him in his campaign over Mexico.

He did not aim to Christianize the natives so much as enrich himself and

acquire empire for his sovereign, and religion was a subterfuge plausible

and popular in that age.

“I die,” said the patriot Hidalgo, when about to be executed in 1811,

“but the seeds of liberty will be watered by my blood. The cause will

not die; that still lives and will surely triumph.” His prediction

came true, and freedom from the Spanish yoke of three centuries was

secured ten years later after the shedding of much blood. Peace did

not follow at once, however, for in the fifty years succeeding the

declaration of independence the form of government changed ten times,

and there were fifty-four different rulers, including two emperors and a

number of dictatorships. Special privileges are difficult to eradicate

when established by long usage, and those enjoying them yield only to

force. The Church, which had imposed on the people such a vast number

of priests, friars, and nuns, and had acquired the most of the wealth

of the country, clung with the grip of death to its privileges and

property. The changes came gradually, but it has been a half-century

since the Church and State were formally separated by constitutional

amendment. The bigoted and despotic Romanism, which was allied with the

Spanish aristocracy, has at last been subdued. A more tolerant spirit is

springing up towards other forms of religious faith through the efforts

of a powerful and liberal government. Education is also freeing the

people from the superstitious ignorance which has hitherto prevailed

in most parts of Mexico. There are occasional outbursts of fanaticism,

but they are quickly suppressed, and the government is making an honest

effort to preserve freedom of worship to all faiths.

The United States of Mexico is a federation composed of twenty-seven

states, three territories, and the federal district in which the

capital is located. The states are sovereign within themselves and are

held together under a federal constitution very much like our own.

This constitution was adopted on the 5th of February, 1857, and its

semi-centennial was recently celebrated with a few of the original

signers present. There is a congress composed of two bodies, the Senate

and Chamber of Deputies which meets twice each year. Each state is

represented in the former by two senators and in the latter by one

representative for each forty thousand of population. The right of

suffrage is restricted so that only a small proportion of the population

can exercise that privilege. They have not really reached popular

government, and politics, as we know them in the United States, do not

exist. A presidential election scarcely caused a ripple on the surface.

President Diaz was no doubt the popular choice, but comparatively few

votes were cast at his last election. The rule of the Diaz government

although decidedly autocratic was beneficient, and has redounded to the

good of the country. Though practically an absolute ruler, President Diaz

always acted through the regularly organized channels of a complete form

of republican government, and outwardly, at least, there was no semblance

of a dictatorship.

Mexico is a country of great natural resources and possibilities which

have been only partially developed. Its soil is remarkably fertile and

could support five times, and, if water could be found on the plateaus,

ten times the present population. And I say this notwithstanding the

fact that one man has said that Mexico is the poorest country south

of Greenland, and north of the south pole. The flora of the country,

among which are many useful and medicinal plants, is exceedingly rich

and varied. More species of fibre plants are found there than in any

other country, and the commercial utility of these plants is not yet

fully appreciated. In no country has there been greater waste of natural

resources than the Spanish conquerors caused in Mexico. It is as a mining

country that Mexico has been best known and the Mexican silver mines have

been famous ever since the discovery of the New World, and they are

still the greatest single source of wealth. Some of them which have been

worked for centuries are still yielding small fortunes in the white metal

each year.

The Mexican has his own view of the United States and does not call our

boasted progress and much-vaunted civilization, with its hurry, brusque

ways and the blotting out of the finer courtesies, an improvement. He

appreciates our mechanical contrivances and electrical inventions, but

prefers to enjoy life after his own fashion and in the way he thinks

that God intended in order to keep men happy. The civilization received

by Mexico in the sixteenth century was looked upon as equal to the best

in existence, and to this was added an ancient civilization found in

the country. From these sources a manner of living has been evolved

which bears evidences of culture and refinement. This system has flowed

on through the intervening centuries, undisturbed by the march of

progress, until the last quarter of a century. Things cannot be changed

to Anglo-Saxon standards in a year, or two years, or even a generation.

To Americanize Mexico will be a difficult if not impossible undertaking,

and there are no signs of such a transition. Americans who live there

fall into Mexican ways and moral standards more frequently than Mexicans

are converted to the American point of view. The influence of traditions,

customs, and climate, and the centuries-old habit of letting the morrow

take care of itself is too great to be overcome.

Mexico and Her People of To-day An Account of the Customs, Characteristics, Amusements, History and Advancement of the Mexicans, and the Development and Resources of Their Country · 第 1 / 24 章