an old thing decayed or ruinated, hauing bene a faire and great citie neere
two miles in length, being all vauted vnderneath for prouision of fresh
water, which water commeth thither but once euery yeere, out of one of the
foure riuers of paradise (as it is termed) called Nilus, which in September
floweth neere eighteene foote vpright higher then his accustomed manner,
and so the banke being cut, as it were a sluce, about thirty miles from
Alexandria, at a towne called Rossetto, it doth so come to the saide Citie,
with such aboundance, that barkes of twelue tunne doe come vpon the said
water, which water doth fill all the vaults, cesternes, and wels in the
said Citie, with very good water, and doth so continue good, till the next
yeere following: for they haue there very litle raine or none at all, yet
have they exceeding great dewes. Also they haue very good corne, and very
plentifull; all the Countrey is very hot, especially in the moneths of
August, September, and October. Also within the saide Citie there is a
pillar of Marble, called by the Turkes, King Pharaoes needle, and it is
foure square, euery square is twelue foote, and it is in height 90 foote.
Also there is without the wals of the said Citie, about twentie score
paces, another marble pillar, being round, called Pompey his pillar: this
pillar standeth vpon a great square stone, euery square is fifteene foote,
and the same stone is fifteene foote high, and the compasse of the pillar
is 37 foote, and the height of it is 101 feete, which is a wonder to thinke
how euer it was possible to set the said pillar vpon the said square stone.
The port of the said Citie is strongly fortified with two strong Castles,
and one other Castle within the citie, being all very well planted with
munition: [Sidenote: Cayro.] and there is to the Eastward of this Citie,
about three dayes iourney the citie of Grand Cayro, otherwise called
Memphis: it hath in it by report of the registers bookes which we did see,
to the number of 2400 Churches, and is wonderfully populous, and is one
dayes iourney about the wals, which was iourneyed by one of our Mariners
for triall thereof. Also neere to the saide citie there is a place called
the Pyramides, being as I may well terme it, one of the nine wonders of the
world: that is, seuen seuerall places of flint and marble stone, foure
square, the wals thereof are seuen yards thicke in those places that we did
see: the squarenes is in length about twentie score euery square, being
built as it were a pointed diamond, broad at the foote, and small or narrow
at the toppe: the heigth of them, to our judgement, doth surmount twise the
heighth of Paules steeple: within the said Pyramides, no man doth know what
there is, for that they haue no entrance but in the one of them, there is a
hole where the wall is broken, and so we went in there, hauing torch light
with vs, for that it hath no light to it, and within the same, is as it
were a great hall, in the which there is a costly tombe, which tombe they
say, was made for kinq Pharao in his life time, but he was not buried
there, being drowned in the red sea: also there are certaine vauts or
dungeons, which goe downe verie deepe vnder those Pyramides with faire
staires, but no man dare venter to goe downe into them, by reason that they
can cary no light with them, for the dampe of the earth doth put out the
light: the red sea is but three dayes iourney from this place, and
Ierusalem about seuen dayes iourney from thence: but to returne to Cayro.
There is a Castle wherein is the house that Pharaoes wiues were kept in,
and in the Pallace or Court thereof stande 55 marble pillars, in such
order, as our Exchange standeth in London: the said pillars are in beigth
60 foote: and in compasse 14 foote: also in the said Citie is the castle
were Joseph was in prison, where to this day they put in rich men, when the
king would haue any summe of money of them: there are seuen gates to the
sayd prison, and it goeth neere fiftie yardes downe right: also, the water
that serueth this castle, commeth out of the foresaide riuer of Nilus, vpon
a wall made with arches, fiue miles long, and it is twelue foote thicke.
Also there are in old Cayro two Monasteries, the one called S. Georges, the
other S. Maries: and in the Courts where the Churches be, was the house of
king Pharao. In this Citie is great store of marchandize, especially
pepper, and nutmegs, which come thither by land, out of the East India: and
it is very plentifull of all maner of victuals, especially of bread,
rootes, and hearbes: to the Eastwards of Cayro, there is a Well, fiue miles
off called Matria, and as they say, when the Virgin Marie fled from
Bethleem, and came into Ægypt, and being there, had neither water, nor any
other thing to sustaine them, by the prouidence of God, an Angell came from
heauen, and strake the ground with his wings, where presently issued out a
fountaine of water: and the wall did open where the Israelites did hide
themselues, which fountains or well is walled foure square till this day.
[Sidenote: Carthage.] Also we were at an old Citie, all ruinated and
destroyed, called in olde time, the great Citie of Carthage where Hannibal
and Queene Dido dwelt: this Citie was but narrow, but was very long: for
there was, and is yet to bee seene, one streete three mile long, to which
Citie fresh water was brought vpon arches (as afore) aboue 25 miles, of
which arches some are standing to this day. [Sidenote: Argier.] Also we
were at diuers other places on the coast, as we came from Cayro, but of
other antiquities we saw but few. The towne of Argier which was our first
and last part, within the streights standeth vpon the side of an hill,
close vpon the sea shore: it is very strong both by sea and land, and it is
very well victualed with all manner of fruites bread and fish good store,
and very cheape. It is inhabited with Turkes, Moores, and Iewes, and so are
Alexandria and Cayro. In this towne are a great number of Christian
captiues, whereof there are of Englishmen onely fifteene, from which port
we set sayle towardes England, the seuenth of Ianuarie, Anno 1587, and the
30 day of the sayd moneth, we arriued at Dartmouth on the coast of England.
* * * * *
The second voyage of M. Laurence Aldersey, to the Cities of Alexandria, and
Cayro in Aegypt. Anno 1586.
I Embarked my selfe at Bristoll, in the Hercules, a good ship of London,
and set saile the 21 day of Februarie, about ten of the clocke in the
morning, hauing a merry winde: but the 23 day, there arose a very great
storme, and in the mids of it we descried a small boate of the burden of
ten tunnes, with foure men in her, in very great danger, who called a maine
for our helpe. Whereupon our Master made towards them, and tooke them into
our ship, and let the boate, which was laden with timber, and appertained
to Chepstow, to runne a drift. The same night about midnight arose another
great storme, but the winde was large with vs, vntill the 27 of the same
moneth, which grew then somewhat contrary: yet notwithstanding we held on
our course, and the tenth day of March, we described a saile about Cape
Sprat, which is a little on this side the streight of Gibraltare, but we
spake not with her. The next day we described twelue saile more, with whom
we thought to haue spoken, to haue learned what they were, but they made
very fast away, and we gaue them ouer.
Thursday the 16 of March, we had sight of the streights, and of the coast
of Barbary. The 18 day we passed them, and sailed towards Patras. Vpon the
23 of March, we met with the Centurion of London which came from Genoa, by
whom we sent letters to England, and the foure men also which we tooke in,
vpon the coast of England, before-mentioned.
The 29th of March we came to Goleta a small Iland, and had sight of two
shippes, which we iudged to be of England.
Tuesday the fourth of April, we were before Malta, and being there
becalmed, our Maister caused the two ship boates to be had out, and they
towed the ship, till we were out of sight of the Castle of Malta. The 9 day
of April we came to Zante, and being before the towne, William Aldridge,
seruant to Master Thomas Cordall of London, came aboord us, with whom our
Master and twelue more of our company, thought to haue gone on shoare: but
they could not be permitted: so we all came aboard againe, and went to
Patras, where we arriued vpon good Friday, and lay there with good
enterteinement at the English house, where was the Consull Master Grimes,
Ralph Ashley, and Iohn Doddington, who very kindly went with vs, and shewed
vs the pleasures of the towne.
They brought vs to the house of the Cady, who was made then to vnderstand
of the 20 Turks that wee had aboard, which were to goe to Constantinople,
being redeemed out of captiuitie, by sir Francis Drake in the West Indies,
and brought with him into England, and by order of the Queenes Maiestie
sent now into their Countrey. Whereupon the Cady commanded them to be
brought before him, that he might see them: and when, he had talked with
them, and vnderstood howe strangely they were deliuered, he marueiled much,
and admired the Queenes Maistie of England, who being but a woman, is
notwithstanding of such power and renowne amongst all the princes of
Christendome, with many other honourable wordes of commending her Maiestie.
So he tooke the names of those 20 Turkes, and recorded them in their great
bookes, to remaine in perpetuall memory. After this, our foresaid
countreyman brought mee to the Chappel of S. Andrew where his tombe or
sepulchre is, and the boord vpon which he was beheaded, which boord is now
so rotten, that if any man offer to cut it, it falleth to powder, yet I
brought some of it away with me.
Vpon Tuesday in Easter weeke, wee set out towards Zante againe, and the 24.
of April with much adoe, wee were all permitted to come on shoare, and I
was caried to the English house in Zante, where I was very well
entertained. The commodities of Zante are Currants and oyle: the situation
of the Towne is vnder a very great hill, vpon which standeth a very strong
Castle, which commaundeth the Towne. At Zante wee tooke in a Captaine and
16. souldiers, with other passengers. Wee departed from Zante vpon Tuesday
the 15. of April, and the next day we ankered at a small Iland, called
Striualia, which is desolate of people, sauing a fewe religious men, who
entertained vs well, without taking any money: but of courtesie we bestowed
somewhat vpon them for their maintenance, and then they gaue vs a couple of
leane sheepe, which we caried aboord. The last day of Aprill, wee arriued
at Candie, at a Castle, called Sowday, where wee set the Captaine,
Souldiers, and Mariners ashoare, which wee tooke in at Zante, with all
their carriage.
[Sidenote: The Islands of Milo, in olde time called Sporades.] The second
day of May wee set saile againe, and the fourth day came to the Islands of
Milo, where we ankered, and found the people there very courteous, and
tooke in such necessaries as we wanted. The Islands are in my iudgement a
hundred in number, and all within the compasse of a hundred miles.
The 11. day, the Chaus, which is the greatest man there in authoritie, for
certaine offences done in a little Chappell by the water side, which they
saide one of our shippe had done, and imputed it to mee, because I was
seene goe into it three dayes before, came to vs, and made much a doe, so
that we were faine to come out of our shippe armed: but by three pieces of
golde the brabling was ended, and we came to our shippe. This day wee also
set saile, and the next day passed by the Castle of Serpeto, which is an
old ruinated thing, and standeth vnder a hils side.
The 13. day we passed by the Island of Paris, and the Island of the bankes
of Helicon, and the Island called Ditter, where are many boares, and the
women bee witches. The same day also wee passed by the Castle of Timo,
standing vpon a very high mountaine, and neere vnto it is the Island of
Diana.
The 15. of May, wee came to Sio, where I stayed thirtie and three dayes. In
it is a very proper Towne, after the building of that Countrey, and the
people are civil: and while we were here there came in sixe Gallies, which
had bene at Alexandria, and one of them which was the Admiral, had a Prince
of the Moores prisoner, whom they tooke about Alexandria, and they meant to
present him to the Turke. The towne standeth in a valley, and a long the
water side pleasantly. There are about 26. winde-mils about it, and the
commodities of it are cotton wooll, cotton yarne, mastike, and some other
drugs.
As we remained at Sio, there grew a great controuersie betweene the
mariners of the Hercules, and the Greekes of the towne of Sio, about the
bringing home of the Turkes, which the Greekes took in ill part, and the
boyes cried out, Viue el Re Philippe: whereupon our men beate the boyes,
and threwe stones, and so a broile beganne, and some of our men were hurt:
but the Greekes were fetcht out of their houses, and manacled together with
yrons, and threatned to the Gallies: about fortie of them were sent to the
prison, and what became of them when we were gone, we know not, for we went
thence within two dayes after, which was the 19. of Iune.
The 20. day wee passed by the Island of Singonina, an Island risen by the
casting of stones in that place: the substance of the ground there is
brimstone, and burneth sometimes so much that it bloweth vp the rockes.
The 24. of Iune wee came to Cyprus, and had sight in the way of the
aforesaide sixe Gallies, that came from Alexandria, one whereof came vnto
vs, and required a present for himselfe, and for two of the other Gallies,
which we for quietnesse sake gaue them.
The 27. of Iune, wee came to Tripolie, where I stayed till the fift of
Iuly, and then tooke passage in a smal barke called a Caramusalin, which
was a passage boat, and was bound for Bichieri, thirteene miles on this
side Alexandria, which boate was fraighted with Turkes, Moores, and Iewes.
The 20. day of Iuly, this barke which I passed in ranne vpon a rocke, and
was in very great danger, so that we all began some to be ready to swimme,
some to leape into the shippe boate, but it pleased God to set vs quickly
off the rocke, and without much harme.
[Sidenote: The English house in Alexandria.] The 28. of Iuly I came to
Bichieri, where I was well entertained of a Iewe which was the Customer
there, giuing me Muskadine, and drinking water himselfe: hauing broken my
fast with him, he prouided mee a Camell for my carriage, and a Mule for mee
to ride vpon, and a Moore to runne by me to the City of Alexandria, who had
charge to see mee safe in the English house, whether I came, but found no
Englishmen there: but then my guide brought me aboord a ship of Alderman
Martins, called the Tyger of London, where I was well receiued of the
Master of the said ship, whose name was Thomas Rickman, and of all the
company.
The said Master hauing made me good cheere, and made me also to drinke of
the water of Nilus, hauing the keyes of the English house, went thither
with me himselfe, and appointed mee a faire chamber, and left a man with me
to prouide me all things that I needed, and euery day came himselfe to me,
and caried me into the City, and shewed me the monuments thereof, which be
these.
[Sidenote: The monuments of Alexandria.] Hee brought mee first to Pompey
his pillar, which is a mighty thing of gray marble, and all of one stone,
in height by estimation about 52. yards, and the compasse about sixe
fadome.
The City hath three gates, one called the gate of Barbaria, the other of
Merina, and the thirde of Rossetto.
He brought me to a stone in the streete of the Citie, whereupon S. Marke
was beheaded: to the place where S. Katerine died, hauing there hid
herselfe, because she would not marry: also to the Bath of S. Katerine.
I sawe there also Pharaos needle, which is a thing in height almost equall
with Pompeys pillar, and is in compasse fiue fadome, and a halfe, and all
of one stone.
I was brought also to a most braue and daintie Bath, where we washed our
selues: the Bath being of marble, and of very curious workemanship.
The Citie standeth vpon great arches, or vawtes, like vnto Churches, with
mightie pillars of marble, to holde vp the foundation: which arches are
built to receiue the water of the riuer of Nilus, which is for the vse of
the Citie. It hath three Castles, and an hundred Churches: but the part
that is destroyed of it, is sixe time more then that part which standeth.
The last day of Iuly, I departed from Alexandria towards Cayro in a passage
boate, wherein first I went to Rossetto, standing by the riuer side, hauing
13. or 14. great churches in it, their building there is of stone and
bricke, but as for lodging, there is little, except we bring it with vs.
From Rosetto wee passed along the riuer of Nilus, which is so famous in the
world, twise as broad as the Thames at London: on both sides grow date
trees in great abundance. The people be rude, insomuch that a man cannot
traueile without a Ianizary to conduct him.
[Sidenote: The Turkes Lent.] The time that I stayed in Ægypt, was the
Turkes and Moores Lent, in all which time they burne lamps in their
churches, as many as may hang in them: their Lent endureth 40. dayes, and
they haue three Lents in the yere: during which time they neither eate nor
drinke in the day time, but all the night they do nothing else.
Betwixt Rossetto and Cayro there are along the water side three hundred
cities and townes, and the length of the way is not aboue three hundred
miles.
To this famous Citie of Cayro I came the fift day of August, where I found
M. William Alday, and William Cæsar, who intertained me in very good sort.
M. Cæsar brought mee to see the Pyramides which are three in number, one
whereof king Pharao made for his owne tombe, the tombe it selfe is almost
in the top of it: the monuments bee high and in forme 4. square, and euery
of the squares is as long as a man may shoote a rouing arrowe, and as high
as a Church, I sawe also the ruines of the Citie of Memphis hard by those
Pyramides.
The house of Ioseph is yet standing in Cayro, which is a sumptuous thing,
hauing a place to walke in of 56. mighty pillars, all gilt with gold, but I
saw it not, being then lame.
The 11. day of August the lande was cut at Cayro, to let in the water of
the riuer of Nilus, which was done with great ioy and triumph.
The 12. of August I set from Cayro towards Alexandria againe, and came
thither the 14. of August The 26. day there was kept a great feast of the
Turkes and Moores, which lasted two dayes, and for a day they neuer ceased
shooting off of great Ordinance.
[Sidenote: The English Consul at Argier.] From Alexandria I sailed to
Argier, where I lay with M. Typton Consull of the English nation, who vsed
me most kindly, and at his owne charge. Hee brought mee to the kings Court,
and into the presence of the King, to see him, and the maners of the Court:
the King doeth onely beare the name of a king, but the greatest gouernment
is in the hands of the souldiers.
The king of Potanca is prisoner in Argier, who comming to Constantinople,
to acknowledge a duety to the great Turke, was betrayed by his owne nephew,
who wrote to the Turke, that he went onely as a spy, by that meanes to get
his kingdome. I heard at Argier of seuen Gallies that were at that time
cast away at a towne called Formentera: three of them were of Argier, the
other foure were the Christians.
We found here 13. Englishmen, which were by force of weather put into the
bay of Tunis, where they were very ill vsed by the Moores, who forced them
to leaue their barke: whereupon they went to the Councell of Argier, to
require a redresse and remedy for the iniurie. They were all belonging to
the shippe called the Golden Noble of London, whereof Master Birde is
owner. The Master was Stephen Haselwood, and the Captaine Edmond Bence.
The thirde day of December, the pinnesse called the Mooneshine of London,
came to Argier with a prize, which they tooke vpon the coast of Spaine,
laden with sugar, hides, and ginger: the pinnesse also belonging to the
Golden Noble: and at Argier they made sale both of shippe and goods, where
wee left them at our comming away, which was the seuenth day of Ianuarie,
and the first day of February, I landed at Dartmouth, and the seuenth day
came to London, with humble thankes to Almightie God, for my safe arriuall.
* * * * *
A letter of the English Ambassadour to M. Haruie Millers, appointing him
Consull for the English nation in Alexandria, Cairo, and other places of
Egypt.
Hauing to appoint our Consull in Cayro, Alexandria, Egypt, and other parts
adiacent, for the safe protection of body and goods of her Maiesties
subiects; being well perswaded of your sufficient abilitie; in her
Maiesties name I doe elect and make choise of you, good friend Haruie
Millers, to execute the same worshipfull office, as shall be required for
her Maiesties better seruice, the commodity of her subiects, and my
contentation: hauing and enioying for merit of your trauell in the premises
the like remuneration incident to the rest of ours in such office in other
parts of this Empire. Requiring you (all other affaires set aside) to
repaire thither with expedition, and attend vpon this your charge, which
the Almighty grant you well to accomplish. For the due execution whereof,
wee heerewith send you the Grand Signiors Patent of priuilege with ours,
and what els is needfull therefore, in so ample maner, as any other Consull
whosoeuer doeth or may enioy the same. In ayd whereof, according to my
bounden duety to her Maiesty our most gracious Mistresse, I will be ready
alwayes to employ my selfe to the generall benefit of her Maiesties
subiects, for your maintenance in all iust causes incident to the same. And
thus eftsoones requiring and commanding you as aboue sayd, to performe my
request, I bid you most heartily well to fare, and desire God to blesse
you. From my mansion Rapamat night Pera this 25 of April 1583.
* * * * *
A letter to the right honourable William Hareborne her Majesties
Ambassadour with the Grand Signior from Alger.