JAFFA.
JAFFA, January 26, 1890.
Having spent two days in Jerusalem industriously sight-seeing, one
noon-day I took a seat in the fine carriage provided, my only companion
being a dragoman, and we were soon bowling along over the fine road to
Jaffa.
The engineers are surveying for a railroad from Jaffa to Jerusalem and
the people expect that it will be completed in a year. The journey may
then be made in an hour. The moon came up at 6 P.M., and as we passed
along the road through the mountains I saw sights and scenery not to be
soon forgotten. I felt safe, for every few miles there was a stone
watch-tower, occupied by guards, and often we met them on the road,
mounted and armed with guns. It was a ride of thrilling interest, for
over this route have passed many times the heroes of old, and on yonder
field of Sharon, now smiling with flowers, was once fought a great
battle. The carriage rushed on, and half-way we changed horses. Being
very cold, I walked ahead for a couple of miles, meeting caravans and
single camels, and numerous donkeys laden with wood, and men coming from
the fields with their oxen and their ploughs. The black-eyed natives
eyed me curiously, but said nothing, and soon the carriage overtook me,
and I was so well warmed up by my walk that I felt comfortable for the
remainder of the trip.
We were detained for two days at Jaffa on account of the rough sea,
which prevented steamers from landing, but being in a comfortable hotel,
I was content and spent the time looking about the ancient city.
A young Arab offered to sell me a tame hyena for twenty francs. It was
nine months old, and as playful as a young dog. At last the sea became
smooth, and I entered one of the heavy boats, and the three strong
Turkish boatmen put me over the rough waters in good style on board the
Russian steamer _Poccir_ from Alexandria bound for Odessa.