YOKOHAMA.
YOKOHAMA, Oct. 12, 1889.
The Grand Hotel, where I am located, is very large and first-class in
all respects. It is two hundred feet long, fronting the matchless bay,
with an extension along a canal of two hundred feet.
From the room I occupy, I look down upon the canal and a fine bridge
which spans it. Across this bridge goes a constant procession of men,
women, and children, some horses and carriages, and occasionally a
single ox drawing a cart. But every thing looks so different, and is
managed so differently from what one has been accustomed to, that I am
more and more impressed with the idea that I am no longer in this world,
but in some wonderland beyond the stars.
The view of the bay from the front of the hotel is said to be, by some,
the finest in the world. The harbor is very large, and could float all
the navies of all nations. At anchor, in different directions, are
iron-clad war-ships, English, French, German, Italian, Russian, and
Japanese,--only one showing the stars and stripes, the _St. Mary_, an
old side-wheel boat, about as large as a Brooklyn ferry-boat, and of
course about as useless.
One of the naval vessels flying the British flag is an immense iron-clad
of six thousand tons. With the commander, Captain May, I became
acquainted. He has on board an Armstrong gun of one hundred and twenty
tons, the largest I think ever made, which will throw a bolt of half a
ton a dozen miles, and penetrate through a wrought-iron plate twelve
inches thick.
The captain expressed himself as having serious doubt of the efficiency
of such monster ships and guns in actual warfare, as smaller, swifter
crafts could run around them, and have great advantages in that respect.
Most of the coal used in this part of the world comes from England, and
is consequently very high-priced.
The harbor is crowded with many large passenger steamers, and a great
fleet of fishing craft. Towards evening the latter presented a
beautiful appearance, coming in.
I took a short walk beyond the canal and over steep hills. There are few
horses or oxen to be seen. Most of the transportation is done by men. A
two-wheeled cart, loaded with perhaps five hundred brick, was being
pushed up a steep hill by eight men, who rested often and were much
fatigued by their exertions.
Last evening our party started for a moonlight excursion along the
smooth and finely macadam-paved streets of the city. Under the guidance
of one of our number, _jinrickishas_--the national cab for transporting
light packages and passengers--were called, The translation of this word
is _pullman-car_, and thus we have the extraordinary coincidence of the
same name for a crude vehicle, drawn by a man, and for the splendid
Pullman palace cars of America, which, with the Wagner, so far surpass
in elegance and comfort all others.
Away we went at a tremendous pace, each having a Chinese lantern, my
carriage leading. We passed through well-lighted streets, lined with
stores filled with showy goods, into the suburbs, a mile or two away,
and stopped at a tea-house, where we were received with much bowing and
ceremony by the women in charge, who spoke a little English. We were
shown up a narrow stair-way into a small hall, and a bargain was made
for a national performance by two musicians and ten dancing girls, who
presently appeared, draped in beautiful Japanese costumes. These dancing
girls were all very pretty, with their almond eyes and dark skins, and
apparently not more than twelve or fifteen years old. They were the most
jolly and laughing young women one ever saw. They shook hands with all
the company, and then danced very nicely, to very poor music, in their
swaying robes. At a signal, these robes were thrown aside, and the girls
appeared in long loose dresses made of white and red material, much like
the stripes on the American flag. The dancing, which was very graceful,
continued for some time; but the show became somewhat monotonous. The
ladies did not care to see any thing more, and we came away. Again we
took to the road, making a very unique procession by moonlight--passing
over many bridges and boulevards, and rows upon rows of brilliantly
illuminated tea-houses,--and returned to the hotel.
The natives do not wear European clothing as much as I expected. The
upper part of their persons is covered with a loose sack, often open in
front, and the jolly and laughing children of ten years and under are
generally entirely nude.
This morning all hands took another trip through the markets. We
examined cane factories, and stores filled with silks and beautiful
goods of native manufacture. Again we looked upon the street scenes and
their never-ending wonders.
From my bedroom window I see a large factory for the making of ice,
which is sold at a penny a pound and is the greatest of comforts in this
country. Butter and cigars are so strong and bad that I have left off
the use of them, and do not expect to try them again until I get to
Austria; but soda-water of excellent quality is to be had everywhere,
and is a great comfort.
We spent the evening listening to the splendid Japanese Marine Band
which played lovely music for two hours in front of the hotel; all the
musicians were natives. It was gayly bright at the hotel, the entire
front being illuminated by paper lanterns of various colors; the big
ships in the bay shown by their own numerous lamps, and the light of
the full moon glittering upon the moving waters. I have seen no such
beautiful show since 1887, when, at the city of Florence, I witnessed
great festivities attendant upon the unveiling of a statue to an Italian
patriot; the great dome of the cathedral, the bridges, and the boats on
the river Arno, the palaces on the hills, and the whole beautiful city
being illuminated in the most splendid manner--but this is a digression
and I must write now about Japan.
I have to-day wandered about the city alone, and have seen more of the
well-to-do natives. These are better dressed--always the flowing
dressing-gown pattern, and stilted and inconvenient slipper-like shoes.
Everywhere, the babies are carried in bags, on the backs of their
mothers, or more often by the older children. There are great numbers of
babies to be seen all over the city, carried about in this way, and they
always appear very happy, well fed, and comfortable.
This morning at two o'clock I was awakened by an earthquake which rolled
my bed about the room. It lasted twenty seconds or so, but I did not
think it worth while to get up, and soon went off to sleep again. I am
told such entertainments are frequent in this country, and one must get
used to them.