Artistic unity is certainly not the chief characteristic of Hereford
Cathedral, but it is doubtful whether the absence of that quality dear to
a purist is not more than compensated for by the fine examples of
different periods, which make the massive pile as a whole a valuable
record of historical progress. And surely it is more fitting that a great
ecclesiastical edifice should grow with the successive ages it outlasts,
and bear about it architectural evidence of every epoch through which it
has passed.
Almost in the midst of the city the sturdy mass of the cathedral building
reposes in a secluded close, from which the best general view is obtained.
The close is entered either from Broad Street, near the west window, or
from Castle Street; the whole of the building lying on the south side of
the close between the path and the river. The space between the Wye and
the cathedral is filled by the Bishop's Palace and the college of the
Vicars Choral.
On the east are the foundations of the castle, which was formerly one of
the strongest on the Welsh marches.
The cathedral is especially rich in architecture of the Norman, Early
English, and Early Decorated periods.
The work of the Norman builders, found chiefly in the interior, survives
in the exterior aspect rather in the "sturdy" quality remaining through
the subsequent building being imposed upon the old foundations. The side
apses of the original triple eastern termination were converted into the
present eastern transept; an operation, the result of which helps to
produce an intricate outline already irregular through the projections of
the porch of Bishop Booth.
The *Central Tower*, a splendid example of Decorated work, is of two
stages above the roofs, with buttresses at the angles. It is covered with
a profusion of ball-flower ornament, which, except in the south nave aisle
of Gloucester Cathedral, is nowhere else so freely used.
[Illustration: BISHOP BOOTH'S PORCH AND NORTH TRANSEPT.]
BISHOP BOOTH'S PORCH AND NORTH TRANSEPT.
_Photochrom Co., Ld., Photo._
Pershore Abbey is not far from Hereford, and from the disposition of the
upper windows of the central tower and the style and position of the
dividing pilasters and bands of ornament, it seems likely that the earlier
lantern of Pershore is partly responsible for its design.
In old prints of the cathedral the great central spire which formerly
existed is shown. It was a timber erection, covered with lead. When this
was taken down at the time of the great repairs and rebuilding of the west
end, a stunted, squat appearance was given to the building. In the year
1830 Canon Russell presented a sum of money to the Dean and Chapter to
build four appropriate pinnacles at the angles.
The tower which formerly stood at the west end was similar in design to
the central one, but rose only one stage above the leads of the nave. This
seems to have been used as a belfry; whereas the central tower was a
lantern.
The large projecting *North Porch*, completed in 1530 by Bishop Booth, is
Perpendicular, and somewhat resembles, though it is later in date, the
porch in the centre of the west front at Peterborough. The front entrance
archway has highly enriched spandrels and two lateral octagonal staircase
buttress turrets at the angles. These have glazed windows in the upper
portions, forming a picturesque lantern to each. This outer porch consists
of two stories, the lower of which is formed by three wide, open arches,
springing from four piers at the extreme angles, two of which are united
with the staircase turrets, the others with the ends of the old porch. The
upper story, containing an apartment, is sustained on a vaulted and
groined roof, and has three large windows, with elaborate tracery.
In the north transept the massive buttresses with bevelled angles, of
which those at the angles are turreted, with spiral cappings, the
remarkable windows, tall without transoms, and rising nearly the whole
height of the building, show to great advantage. The clerestory windows,
like those in the outer wall of the triforium in the nave of Westminster,
are triangular on the exterior.
On the eastern side of this transept, which has an aisle, is an unusual
architectural feature. The windows of the triforium have semi-circular
arched mouldings, enclosing a window of three lights of lancet-shaped
arches. Beneath the aisle window is a pointed arched doorway, which was
probably an original approach to the shrine of Cantilupe.
In the angle is a staircase turret, which is circular at the bottom and
polygonal above; and this probably was an access to a private apartment
for a monk over the aisle of the transept containing the sacred shrine.
Continuing an examination of the north side of the cathedral one notices
the buttresses of the north-east transept, the Stanbury Chapel, the
windows, parapet, and roof of the aisle, the clerestory windows with
arcade dressings to the walls, and the modern parapet above the whole.
[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW, FROM THE WEST.]
GENERAL VIEW, FROM THE WEST.
_Photochrom Co., Ld., Photo._
The style of the arcade and window, and also the blank window or double
arch, with two smaller arches within the clerestory wall, claims especial
attention, as well as the ribbed roof rising above the Norman triforium.
We now come to the Early English work of the *Lady Chapel*, the east end
of which is especially noticeable, with its bold angular buttresses rising
from immense bases. The numerous and large base mouldings running round
the wall of this building, its tall lancet-shaped windows, arcades, and
ovolar and lozenge-shaped panels, are so many interesting peculiarities of
design.
The Audley Chapel projects on the south side. The angular, embattled
parapet at the end is a modern addition.
The south side of the cathedral is not easily examined by the public,
being shut within the walls of a garden between the Bishop's and the
Vicars' Cloisters.
The *Bishop's Cloisters* consist of two walks only, or covered corridors,
though that on the west, which was pulled down in the reign of Edward VI.
to make room for a pile of brick building appropriated to the Grammar
School, and in its turn demolished in 1836, is now in course of
restoration.
It does not appear that the cloisters ever had a walk on the north side
against the cathedral.
These cloisters are of Perpendicular date, and between a continued series
of buttresses are windows of large dimensions, with mullions and tracery.
The vaulting of the roof is adorned with numerous ribbed mouldings, at the
intersections of which are shields charged with sculptured figures,
foliage, arms, etc. These ribs spring from slender pillars between the
windows and corbels heads on the other side: over the exterior of the
windows are carved grotesque heads, of which we give some illustrations.
The south walk of the cloisters is the more richly groined. At the
south-east corner is a square turreted tower containing a small chamber,
which has been carefully and completely restored. It has always been
called the "Ladye Arbour," although no one has been able to discover the
origin of this name or the use to which the chamber was put; many
antiquarians suggest a possible reference to the Virgin.
[Illustration: EXTERIOR OF THE LADY CHAPEL. DRAWN BY A. HUGH FISHER.]
EXTERIOR OF THE LADY CHAPEL. DRAWN BY A. HUGH FISHER.
The entrance doorway to the *Chapter-house* from the east walk still
remains, but is walled up. It consists of a pointed arch under a lofty,
richly ornamented pedimental moulding, having clustered shafts on the
sides, with foliated capitals. The archway is divided by a slender pillar
into two smaller openings. The once elegant chapter-room to which this
doorway communicated, whether or not they fell, as Britton asserts,
"beneath the fanatic frenzy of the Cromwellian soldiers," was certainly
neglected; and then, as long as any material could be got from it, treated
as a stone quarry by Bishop Bisse and his successors. This chapter-house
appears to have been a beautiful piece of design of the rich Decorated
period. It was decagonal in plan, with a projecting buttress at each
angle. Each side, except the one occupied by the entrance, was sub-divided
into five panels or seats. Remains of three sides only are left, and these
only as far as the window-sills.
Against the south wall of the cloisters, towards its east end, are some
remains of two Norman chapels, one above the other. The lower was
dedicated to St. Katherine and the upper to St. Mary Magdalene.
"The form, excepting a portico and choir (_i.e._ chancel) was an exact
square; four pillars in the middle, with arches every way, supported the
roof; the portico was composed of a succession of arches retiring inwards,
and had a grandeur in imitation of Roman works; two pillars on each side
consisted of single stones. There was a descent of a few steps to the
lower chapel, which had several pillars against the walls made of single
stones, and an octagonal cupola on the four middle pillars. The walls were
much painted, and the arched roof was turned with great skill, and
resembled the architecture which prevailed during the declension of the
Roman Empire (see Stukeley, Havergal, etc.).
Mentioning the existence of the doorway and two small windows in the
remaining north wall, the author of _The Picturesque Antiquities of
Hereford_ proceeds to say: "These are extremely interesting, as they
pertained to an edifice which once stood on the south side of this wall,
and is believed to have been the original church of St. Mary, the patron
saint of the cathedral before the translation of the body of St.
Ethelbert. It was the parish church of St. Mary, to which the residences
in the cathedral close belonged. Transcripts of registers of marriages
there solemnised so late as the year 1730 are existent in the Dean's
archives."
A second cloister, known as the *Vicars' Cloister*, connects the Vicars'
College with the south-east transept. The arrangement here may be compared
with that of Chichester, as showing the most probable plan of the latter
before the destruction of the south walk and its connection with the
cloister of the Vicars Choral.
In the area of the Bishop's Cloister was formerly a preaching cross, which
fell into a decayed state during the latter part of the last century.
Beneath it was a dome of masonry which closed the aperture to a well of
considerable depth, which had been formed with great exactness. This well
still exists beneath a plain square stone. Another well was (according to
Stukeley) situated between the College and the Castle Green, with a
handsome stone arch over it.
[Illustration: THE CLOISTERS, WITH THE LADIES' ARBOUR.]
THE CLOISTERS, WITH THE LADIES' ARBOUR.
_Photochrom Co., Ld., Photo._
Building operations are still in progress at Hereford, and it was proposed
to mark the year of Her Majesty's Jubilee by a special restoration,
dealing principally with the west end and central tower.