almonds blanched and pounded quite fine, with a dessert spoonful of
orange flower water, half a pound of the crumb of french bread, half a
pound of currants washed and picked, a quarter of a pound of sifted
sugar, a little mace, cloves, and cinnamon pounded, a gill of mountain
wine, and the yolks of four eggs beaten. Mix all well together, fill the
entrails of a pig three parts full, tie each end, and boil them half an
hour.
_Sausage Meat._
TAKE the lean meat of young pork chopped small, and to a pound of it add
a pound of the flay and fat chopped, some breadcrumbs, nutmeg, allspice
and mace pounded, a small quantity of each, a little grated lemon peel,
sage, parsley, thyme, and two eschallots, chopped very fine, an egg
beaten, and season with pepper and salt. Mix all well together, with the
hands, or pound it in a marble mortar; then make it into cakes and broil
it, or put it into the entrails of a pig nicely cleaned.
_Calf's Liver roasted._
MAKE an incision in the under part of a calf's liver, fill it with a
stuffing made with beef marrow, breadcrumbs, grated nutmeg, one
eschallot, two mushrooms, parsley and thyme chopped fine, and one egg
beaten. Then sew it up, lard it with small slips of fat bacon, put a
piece of veal caul over, and roast it gently. When it is to be served up
take off the caul, glaize the top, put under it some good cullis sauce,
and plenty of fried parsley round.
_To dry Herbs._
GATHER marjoram, savory, thyme, basil, parsley, &c. on a dry day, when
in season, and not blown. Divide them separately into small bunches, as
in that state they will dry best. Then hang them on a line in a dry room
or place where the air has free admission, but no direct rays of the
sun. When they are perfectly dry (which will require two or three weeks
to accomplish) put them in rows in boxes close covered, and set them in
a dry place.
_To make Anchovie Liquor to be used in Fish Sauces._
PUT into a stewpan one pound of best anchovies, two quarts of water, two
bay leaves, some whole pepper, a little scraped horseradish, a sprig of
thyme, two blades of mace, six eschallots chopped small, a gill of red
port, half the rind of a lemon, a gill of ketchup; boil all together
twenty minutes, and rub them through a tamis cloth with a wooden spoon.
When the essence is cold put it into pint bottles, cork them close, and
set them in a dry place.
_Potted Lobster._
BOIL two live hen lobsters in strong salt and water till half done; then
take the meat and spawn out of the shells, put it into a stewpan, add a
little beaten and sifted mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, salt, a small
quantity of lemon juice, a spoonful of essence of ham, a dessert
spoonful of anchovie liquor, the same as for fish sauce, and simmer them
over a fire for ten minutes. Then pound the meat in a marble mortar,
reduce the liquor almost to a glaize, put it to the meat with a quarter
of a pound of fresh butter, mix them well together, press the mixture
down into small flat preserving pots, cover with clarified butter, and
when cold put white paper over the pots, and set them in a dry place.
N. B. Prawns, shrimps, crayfish, and crabs, may be done in the same
manner.
_To clarify Butter for Potting._
PUT fresh butter into a stewpan with a spoonful of cold water, set it
over a gentle fire till oiled, skim it, and let it stand till the
sediment is settled; then pour off the oil, and when it begins to
congeal put it over the different ingredients.
_Potted Cheese._
TO a pound of grated parmezan or cheshire cheese add three ounces of
cold fresh butter, a little sifted mace, and a tea spoonful of mustard.
Mix all well in a marble mortar, put it into small pots, cover with
clarified butter, and set the pots in a cold dry place.
_Potted Veal._
CUT small a pound of lean white veal, put it into a stewpan, with two
ounces of fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, salt, sifted mace,
a bay leaf, allspice, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, and mushroom powder, a
small quantity of each, a little parsley, thyme, savory, and two
eschallots chopped fine. Put them over a fire and stew them ten
minutes; then pound them, and add a pound of the mellow part of a boiled
pickle tongue and half a pound of cold fresh butter. Mix them well
together with two eggs beaten; then press the mixture down tight into
small pots, cover them with paper, put them into a moderate oven, bake
them twenty minutes, and when the meat is cold put clarified butter
over.
_Potted Larks or Small Birds._
PASS them with the same ingredients as for veal, and when they are half
done take them out and put the lean veal in. When the forcemeat is made
put the birds into the pots with it, bake them, and proceed in the same
manner as with potted veal.
N. B. Pheasants, partridges, chickens, &c. may be done in the same way,
but will take a longer time baking.
_To dry Morells, Mushrooms, and Champignons._
TAKE morells and champignons of the largest size, forced mushrooms of
the size of a shilling, and let them be gathered fresh; then take off
the stalk, wash them free from grit, drain them dry with a cloth, run a
fine twine through them with a large needle, hang them up in a warm dry
place, and when they are perfectly dry put them into paper bags in boxes
close covered. When they are wanted for use lay them in warm water for
half an hour, and prepare them as if they were fresh.
_Mushroom Powder._
AFTER the mushrooms or champignons are dried whole they may be set
before a fire till crisp; then grind and sift them through a fine sieve,
and preserve the powder in small bottles close corked.
_Potted Beef._
TAKE two pounds of the fillet out of the inside of a rump of beef and
two pounds of best fat bacon. Cut them small, put them into a marble
mortar, add to them a small quantity of parsley, thyme, savory, four
eschallots chopped fine, some pepper, salt, two spoonsful of essence of
ham, a spoonful of mushroom powder, sifted mace, cloves, and allspice, a
little of each, two eggs beaten, and a gill of rhenish wine. Pound all
well together till quite fine; then fill small pots with the mixture,
cover with paper, bake it very gently for forty minutes, and when cold
cover with clarified butter.
_Tarragon Vinegar._
PUT into a stone jar half a pound of fresh gathered tarragon leaves and
two quarts of best common vinegar, and let them ferment a fortnight;
then run it through a flannel bag, and add to it a quarter of an ounce
of isinglass dissolved in cyder. Put it into a clean jar, let it stand
till fine, pour it off, put it into small bottles, cork them close, and
set them in a dry place.
N. B. In the same manner may be done elder flowers, &c. &c.
_Walnut Ketchup for Fish Sauces._
TO a quart of walnut pickle add a quarter of a pound of anchovies and
three gills of red port; boil them till reduced one third, strain it,
and when cold preserve it in small bottles close corked.
_To pickle Tongues, &c._
TAKE large tongues perfectly fresh, cut some of the root away, make an
incision in the under part, rub them well with common salt, and lay
them in a tub or pan close covered for four days. Then pound together
two parts of saltpetre, one part of common salt, one part of bay salt,
and one part of moist sugar. Rub the tongues well with the mixture, put
all into the pan, and turn them every two days till pickled enough,
which will be in ten days.
N. B. Pigs faces and hams to be done in the same manner, but according
to their size let them lay in the different pickles for longer periods,
and when well coloured smoke them. If it be wished to have the hams or
tongues of a westphalia flavour add some socho to the pickle.
_India Pickle._
TAKE large fresh cauliflowers in the month of July, pick them into small
pieces, wash them clean, put them into a pan with plenty of salt over
them for three days; then drain and lay them separately to dry in the
sun, repeatedly turning them till they are almost of a brown colour,
which will require several days. Then put plenty of whole ginger, slices
of horseradish, peeled garlick, whole long pepper, peeled eschallots and
onions, into salt and water for one night; drain and dry them also; and
when the ingredients are ready, boil more than a sufficient quantity of
vinegar to cover them, and to two quarts of it add an ounce of the best
pale turmeric, and put the flowers and the other ingredients into stone
jars, pour the vinegar boiling hot over, cover them till the next day,
then boil the pickle again, and the same on the third day; after which
fill the jars with liquor, cover them over close with bladder and white
leather, and set them in a dry place.
N. B. In the same manner may be done white cabbages cut into half
quarters, whole french beans, heads of celery, heads of asparagus,
onions whole or sliced, or pickling melons peeled thin, cut into halves,
and formed like an indian mango.
_To dry Artichoke Bottoms._
GATHER the largest firm artichokes when in season, cut off the stalks,
and boil them till the leaves and choke can be taken away. Afterwards
put them on a baking plate and set them in a very slow heated oven, or
hang them up in a warm place to dry, and when perfectly so put them into
paper bags. When they are wanted for use lay them in warm water and
salt, and when pliable trim them neat, braise them in stock and lemon
juice, which will preserve them white, and when they are done enough, if
for ragout, cut them into pieces; if for dishes, serve them whole with
good cullis sauce over them.
_To pickle Cucumbers, &c._
GATHER jerkins not too large, lay them in a strong brine of salt and
water for three days, then wipe them dry, and put them into stone jars.
Then put a sufficient quantity of vinegar to cover them into a
preserving pan, add plenty of whole ginger and black pepper, a middling
quantity of mace, allspice and cloves, some slices of horseradish,
peeled onions, eschallots, and a small quantity of garlick. Let the
ingredients boil for ten minutes, and pour them with the liquor over the
cucumbers; cover the jars with cabbage leaves and a plate, set them in a
warm place, the next day drain the liquor from them, boil it, and pour
over them again, and if on the third day they are not green enough, boil
the vinegar again, pour it over, and when cold tie bladder and white
leather over the jars, and set them in a dry place.
N. B. In the same manner may be done walnuts, love apples, barberries,
capsicums, french beans, nasturtiums, and small pickling melons peeled
very thin and cut into quarters.
_Rules to be observed in Pickling._
IT is recommended that the best common vinegar be in general used for
pickling, and that it be put into a well-cleaned copper or
brass-preserving pan just before it is to be put over the fire, and when
it boils not to remain in the pan.
There can be no occasion of the many arts that are used in order to
preserve the ingredients green, if the vegetables are gathered fresh, on
a dry day, when in season, and the process followed that has been
recommended.
Further directions could be given that might be attended with greater
expence, but which would scarcely answer a better purpose, excepting
only to those who are in the habit of extensive practice.
_To pickle Onions._
PEEL small button onions into milk and water, in which put plenty of
salt; set it over a fire, and when it boils strain the onions, wipe them
dry, and put them into glasses. Have ready cold white wine vinegar, in
which whole white pepper, ginger, mace, and slices of horseradish have
been boiled. Pour it over the onions, and cover them with bladder and
leather.
_To pickle Mushrooms._
TAKE a sufficient quantity of double distilled white wine vinegar to
cover the mushrooms; add to it whole white pepper, ginger, mace, peeled
eschallots, and a small quantity of garlick if approved; boil all
together ten minutes and let it stand till cold. Then peel fresh forced
button mushrooms into water, wash them clean, strain, and put them into
a stewpan. To a quart of mushrooms add the juice of a lemon and a table
spoonful of salt. Cover the pan close, set it over a fire, and when the
liquor is sufficiently drawn from the mushrooms put the whole into
glasses and cover them with the pickle. Tie bladder and white leather
over the glasses.
The general rule has been deviated from of making the pickle for onions
and mushrooms with double distilled white wine vinegar, as in this
instance it is requisite to preserve them white. It is likewise
recommended that they be put into small jars or glasses for use; for
this reason, that, if exposed to the air but for a short space of time,
they will discolour.
_To pickle Beet Roots._
BOIL the roots till three parts done, and cut them into slices of an
inch thick. Then take a sufficient quantity of vinegar to cover them,
and add to it whole allspice, a few cloves, mace, black pepper, slices
of horseradish, some onions, eschallots, a little pounded ginger, some
salt, and a few bay leaves. Boil the ingredients together twenty minutes
and strain it, and when the pickle is cold add a little bruised
cochineal. Put the slices of beet into jars, add the pickle, put a small
quantity of sweet oil on the top, and tie the jars down close.
N. B. When the beet is wanted for use mix well together sweet oil,
mustard, some of the liquor in which the roots were pickled, and a very
little sifted sugar. Lay the slices in a deep plate and pour the mixture
over.
_To pickle Artichoke Bottoms._
TAKE large fresh and sound artichokes, boil them just enough to take
the leaves and choke away, then trim and lay them in salt and water;
after which boil (for five minutes) a sufficient quantity of vinegar to
cover them, in which put whole allspice, black pepper, ginger, mace,
cloves, eschallots, salt, a few bay leaves, and some slices of
horseradish. Drain and wipe dry the bottoms, put them into jars, add the
liquor and ingredients to them, and tie them down close. When they are
fit for use serve them up in a deep plate with a little of the pickle,
oil, and mustard mixed with it.
_To pickle large Cucumbers._
PEEL them very thin, cut them into halves, throw the seeds away, and lay
the cucumbers in salt for a day. Then wipe them dry, fill them with
mustard seed, peeled eschallots, garlick, small slips of horseradish,
and mace. After which tie them round with twine, put them into jars,
pour over them some boiling liquor made as for india pickle or for
jerkins, and cover them down close till fit for use.
_To pickle Red Cabbage._
CUT a fresh light red cabbage into slips, wash it clean, and put it into
a pan with plenty of salt for two days. Then boil together for half an
hour a sufficient quantity of vinegar to cover the cabbage, together
with bruised black pepper, mace, allspice, cloves, ginger, nutmeg, and
mustard seed, a middling quantity of each. Strain the vinegar and
ingredients, and let them stand till cold; then add a little bruised
cochineal, drain the cabbage on a large sieve till dry, put it into the
jars, add the pickle, and tie the jars down close; or the liquor may be
poured over the cabbage boiling hot; and when cold, before the jars are
tied down, add a little bruised cochineal. This method will make the
cabbage sooner fit for use.
N. B. Onions may be peeled and done whole in the same manner, and mixed
with red cabbage.
_To pickle Currants._
TO a quart of double distilled white wine vinegar add half a pound of
loaf sugar, whole ginger, one ounce of salt, and a pint of red currant
juice; boil all together, skim it clean, and let it stand till cold.
Then pick and put some best ripe red currants into glasses, fill them
with the pickle, and cover them down close with bladder and leather.
_To pickle Barberries._
BRUISE and strain ripe barberries, and to a pint of juice add three
pints of vinegar, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, an ounce of salt,
and a quarter of an ounce of pounded and sifted ginger. Boil all
together, skim it clean, and put bunches of the best ripe barberries
into jars, pour the pickle boiling hot over, and let it stand till cold;
then add a little bruised cochineal, and tie the jars over close.
N. B. Bunches of currants may be done in like manner.
_Sour Crout._
TAKE large white cabbages when in season, cut them into halves, and then
into slips; wash them clean and drain them dry. After which put into a
tub a layer of cabbage, then a layer of salt, afterwards a small
quantity of pounded and sifted coriander seeds, and so on alternately;
when the tub is nearly full put a weight over to press it well, and set
it in a cold dry place covered with a coarse cloth. When it is wanted
for use put some of the cabbage into boiling water over a fire for five
minutes, and strain it. Have ready some pieces of salted bouillie beef
(of a quarter of a pound each) nearly boiled enough; likewise some
pieces of pickle pork of the same number and weight. Then put them into
a stewpan, add the cabbage, fresh butter, a little vinegar, onions
sliced very thin, some whole pepper, allspice, and mace, tied in a bit
of cloth. Let all stew till tender; then take out the spices, season the
cabbage to the palate with cayenne pepper, and serve it up with fried
onions (done as per receipt), with fried sausages round the crout.
_Peas Pudding, to be eaten with boiled Pork._
LAY a pint of best split peas into water for half an hour; strain, pick,
and put them into a cloth, tie them tight, and boil them gently for
three hours. Then put the peas out of the cloth into a stewpan, mash
them well with a wooden spoon, add a bit of fresh butter, a little
pepper and salt, the yolks of two eggs, and mix all well together. Put
the mixture into a clean cloth, tie it up, and let it hang near a fire
for half an hour; then turn it out on a dish, and pour melted butter
over.
_Currie, or Pepper Water._
CUT a chicken into pieces, blanch and wash it, put it into a small
stewpot, add a table spoonful of currie powder, half a pint of veal
broth, and simmer them till half done. Then peel and cut into thin
slices two good sized onions, fry them with two ounces of fresh butter
till nearly done and of a brown colour; then add them to the chicken,
together with a pint of veal broth, half a bay leaf, the juice of half a
lemon, two table spoonfuls of the juice of tamarinds, which are to be
dissolved in boiling water and strained. Boil all together till the
chicken is nearly done; then take it out, put it into another stewpan,
rub the ingredients through a tamis sieve, and add it to the fowl with
a table spoonful of flour and water to thicken it. Make it boil, season
it well to the palate with cayenne pepper and salt, skim it clean, and
serve it up in a bowl.
_Grills and Sauce, which are generally eaten after Dinner._
SEASON some small pieces of ready-dressed fowl or turkey with pepper and
salt, and grill them gently till of a nice brown colour. In the mean
time put into a stewpan a gill and a half of cullis, an ounce of fresh
butter, a table spoonful of mushroom ketchup, the juice of a lemon, and
a small bit of the rind, a little cayenne pepper, a tea spoonful of the
essence of anchovies, and one eschallot chopped fine. Boil all the
ingredients together five minutes, strain the liquor, and serve it up in
a sauceboat; the pieces of chicken, &c. on a dish.
_Salmé of Woodcocks._
TAKE two woodcocks half roasted, cut them up neatly, and let the
trimmings with the entrails be pounded in a marble mortar; then put them
into a stewpan, add half a pint of cullis, two eschallots chopped, half
a gill of red port, and a bit of rind of lemon; season to the palate
with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. Boil the ingredients ten minutes,
and strain the liquor to the carved woodcocks, which stew gently till
done. Serve them up in a deep dish with sippets of fried bread strewed
over.
_To make a Haggess._
TAKE the heart and lights of a sheep, and blanch and chop them; then add
a pound of beef suet chopped very fine, crumb of french roll soaked in
cream, a little beaten cinnamon, mace, cloves, and nutmeg, half a pint
of sweet wine, a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, a sufficient
quantity of flour to make it of a proper consistence, a little salt, the
yolks of three eggs, and some sheep chitterlings well cleaned and cut
into slips. Mix all together, and have ready a sheep's bag nicely
cleaned, in which put the mixture; then tie it tight and boil it three
hours.
_French Black Puddings._
PICK, wash, and boil, till three parts done, two pounds of grits or
rice; then drain it dry, put it into a stewpan with a quart of pigs
blood preserved from curdling, with plenty of salt stirred into it when
taken from the animal; add to them ground pepper, pounded and sifted
mace, cloves, nutmeg, and allspice, a small quantity of each, a gill of
cream with a bit of crumb of french bread soaked in it, together with
chopped savory, thyme, parsley, and pennyroyal, a little of each. Mix
the ingredients over a slow fire for twenty minutes, and when cold put
with them plenty of the flay cut into small dice. Have ready the
entrails cleaned very nice, fill them with the mixture three parts full,
tie the ends, put the puddings into hot water, boil them gently a
quarter of an hour; if they are to be eaten directly when done, prick
them with a fork and broil them upon a very clean gridiron for ten
minutes: if they are not to be eaten immediately when made, put them on
clean straw, and when they are wanted for use put them into boiling
water, let them simmer ten minutes, then take them out, and prick and
broil them as above.
N. B. If large puddings they will take longer periods in boiling and
broiling.
_Milk Punch._
TO a gallon of milk add a little cinnamon, cloves, mace, lemon and
orange peel, a pint of brandy, a pint of rum, plenty of orange and
lemon juice, and sweeten to the palate. Then whisk with it the yolks and
whites of eight eggs, put it over a brisk fire, and when it boils let it
simmer ten minutes; run it through a jelly bag till quite clear, put it
into bottles, and cork it close.
N. B. The rum and brandy should be added when the milk is cleared.
_Plum Pottage._
TO veal and beef broths (a quart of each) add a pound of stoned pruens
and the crumb of two penny french rolls, rubbing all through a tamis
cloth; then mix to the pulp half a pound of stoned raisins, a quarter of
a pound of currants, a little lemon juice, some pounded cinnamon, mace,
and cloves, a pint of red port, a pint of claret, a small quantity of
grated lemon peel, and season to the palate with lump sugar. Let all
simmer together for one hour; then add a little cochineal to make it of
a nice colour, and serve it up in a tureen. Let it be of the consistence
of water gruel.
_Candied Orange or Lemon Peels._
TAKE either lemon or orange peels well cleaned from the pulp, and lay
them in salt and water for two days; then scald and drain them dry, put
them into a thin syrup, and boil them till they look clear. After which
take them out, and have ready a thick syrup made with fine loaf sugar;
put them into it, and simmer till the sugar candies about the pan and
peels. Then lay them separately on a hair sieve to drain, strew sifted
sugar over, and set them to dry in a slow oven; or the peels may be cut
into chips, and done in the same manner.
_Lemonade or Orangeade._
TO a gallon of spring water add some cinnamon and cloves, plenty of
orange and lemon juices, with a bit of each peel; sweeten well with loaf
sugar, and whisk with it the whites of six eggs and one yolk. Put it
over a brisk fire, and when it boils let it simmer ten minutes; then run
it through a jelly bag, and let it stand till cold before it is drunk.
This mode is recommended, the liquor having been boiled.
_Poivrade Sauce for Game, Maintenon Cutlets, &c._
PEEL and chop small twelve eschallots; add to them a gill and a half of
vinegar, a table spoonful of veal consumé, half an anchovie rubbed
through a fine sieve, a little cayenne pepper, and salt. Serve it up in
a sauceboat cold, if to be eaten with cold game; but if to be eaten
with hot, roast, or grills, make it boiling.
_Lobster Sauce for Fish._