top; then blanch and braise it, or roast it gently till very tender
with a veal caul over. When it is to be served up take off the caul,
glaize the top of the breast, and put round it white oyster sauce. (See
receipt for _Oyster Sauce_.)
_Lamb's Head minced._
CHOP the head in halves, and blanch it with the liver, heart, and
lights. Then chop the heart, &c. and add to them a little parsley
chopped very fine, a small quantity of shredded lemon peel, and some
cullis; then stew it gently till done, and season to the palate. Wash
the head over with yolk of egg, season it with pepper and salt, strew
fine breadcrumbs over, and bake it gently till very tender. When it is
to be served up, colour it with a salamander, put the mince under, and
the brains fried round it, with rashers of broiled bacon.
N. B. To prepare the brains, clean them in warm water, wipe them dry,
dip them in yolk of egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard.
_Breast of Lamb with Benshamelle._
TAKE off the under bone, then blanch and put it into a stewpan, with
parsley, thyme, and eschallots, chopped very fine, a bit of fresh
butter, pepper, salt, a little essence of anchovie, and lemon juice. Let
it simmer over a slow fire till nearly done; then lay it on a dish, and,
when almost cool, egg and breadcrumb it, broil it over a slow clear fire
till tender, and let it be of a nice brown colour. Serve it up with a
benshamelle sauce under.
_Breast or Tendrons of Lamb en Matelote._
CUT the breast into two long slips, trim off the bone and skin, cut them
into small pieces, blanch and boil them in a little stock and lemon
juice. When nearly done, add peeled and half-boiled button onions,
pieces of pickle cucumber cut of the same size, a few button mushrooms
stewed, some slices of throat sweetbreads, blanched omlet of egg (the
same kind as for garnishing) cut into pieces the form of dice, and lean
ham cut in the same manner; then add a cullis or benshamelle. When it is
to be served up, put sippets of fried bread round.
_Breast of Lamb with Peas._
CUT off the under bone, and then blanch and braise it. When it is to be
served up, glaize the top and put the stewed peas under.
_To stew Peas for Sauce: for Lamb, Veal, Chickens, &c._
TO a quart of shelled young green peas add two ounces of fresh butter, a
very little sifted sugar, and some salt. Put them into a stewpan, cover
it close, simmer the peas till nearly done, then add some good-seasoned
cullis, and stew them till tender.
_Lamb Cutlets with Cucumbers._
TAKE the bone from a loin of lamb, cut it into chops, beat them flat
with a chopper, and trim off some of the fat. Pass them with a piece of
fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, lemon juice, and
pepper and salt. When three parts done, put them on a dish, and, when
nearly cool, egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard till of a
light brown colour. Drain them dry, place them round each other in the
dish, and serve them up with the cucumber sauce in the center.
N. B. In the same manner may be done mutton and veal cutlets.
_Neck of Lamb glaized._
CUT the scragg and the chine bone from a neck of house lamb; then take
off the skin, trim part of the fat away to lard the neck lengthways,
blanch it, and braise or roast it gently with a veal caul over. When it
is to be served up, glaize the larding, and put round it white onion
sauce made thus:
_Onion Sauce._
TAKE boiled onions, rub them through a hair sieve; then add to them
fresh butter, cream, flour, salt, a very little of each, and let it stew
five minutes.
_Lamb Cutlets with Tendrons._
CUT a neck of house lamb into chops, leaving only the long bone; then
beat them flat, and pass them with parsley, thyme, eschallots, chopped
very fine, and add a little lemon juice, mushroom powder, pepper, and
salt. When they are three parts done lay them on a dish, and when half
cold breadcrumb them and broil them on a stewpan cover over a slow fire
with a bit of fresh butter. When they are to be served up, put in the
center of the dish some braised tendrons of the breast of lamb, and
round them the cutlets, and turnip sauce over the center.
_Turnip Sauce._
PARE four turnips, sweat them with a little water till they are done and
the liquor reduced, then rub them through a tamis sieve. Add to them a
small quantity of benshamelle, and then cut some more turnips in shapes
as for a haricot. Sweat them in the like manner, and add the benshamelle
to them.
_Lamb Cutlets with Tendrons another way._
THE tendrons may be served in the center of the dish, with the cutlets
larded, braised, and glaized, to go round them; and the sauce made in
the same manner, but instead of benshamelle add cullis.
_Shoulder of Lamb glaized._
BONE a shoulder of house lamb, then season it with pepper, salt,
mushroom powder, and beaten spice; fill the cavity with some light
forcemeat; sew it up, and make it in the form of a leg of lamb; after
which blanch it, and braise in a little stock and bards of fat bacon.
When it is done wipe it dry, glaize it, and serve it up with sorrel
sauce under; or a strong cullis sauce with a little tarragon of vinegar
in it.
_Shoulder of Lamb en Epigram._
ROAST a shoulder of lamb till three parts done, and let it stand till
cold; then take the blade-bone out with the meat, leaving only the skin
whole in the form of a fan. Cut the meat into slips, add to it parsley,
thyme, eschallots, and mushrooms, chopped fine, some good-seasoned
cullis, and a little lemon pickle. Let it stew gently for a quarter of
an hour; and let the fan of the shoulder and the blade bone be broiled,
and served up over the stew.
_Shoulder of Lamb grilled._
ROAST it till three parts done, then score it with chequers, season with
pepper and salt, and grill it gently till done. Let it be of a light
brown colour, and serve it up with a sauce over it made with cullis,
ketchup, lemon juice, and a bit of fresh butter.
_Hind Quarter of Lamb marinated._
BONE the leg, fill the cavity with a light forcemeat well-seasoned, sew
it up and lard the top part of the quarter with slips of fat bacon. When
done, take a quart of veal stock, half a gill of vinegar, whole black
pepper, some salt, two bay leaves, three onions cut in pieces, a little
garlick, and half a pint of rhenish wine. Boil all the ingredients
together a quarter of an hour, put the lamb into a deep dish, and strain
the liquor to it. Let it lay five or six hours, turn it several times,
then roast the lamb gently with a veal caul over it. When it is nearly
done, let it colour a little and glaize the top. Serve it up with a
sauce under it, made with the above liquor boiled down almost to a
glaize, with some cullis added.
N. B. In the same manner may be done a shoulder or leg of lamb.
_Hind Quarter of Lamb with Spinach._
BOIL the leg, preserve it as white as possible, serve it up with spinach
under, and the steaks round it very hot. The loin to be cut into chops,
and seasoned with pepper and salt; then fried or broiled. Pick and boil
the spinach till nearly done; then strain and squeeze it dry, chop it,
and add a little piece of fresh butter, pepper, and salt, a little
cullis or cream, and let it stew for five minutes.
N. B. The spinach may be served up as a dish with fried bread round it.
_Leg of Lamb with Oysters._
BONE the leg, fill the cavity with light forcemeat, and some blanched
and bearded oysters pounded with it. Sew it up, put over it slices of
lemon, salt, bards of fat bacon, and paper. Roast it gently, and when
it is to be served up, glaize it, and put a sauce round it made with
oysters blanched and bearded, stewed mushrooms, boiled button onions,
some cullis, and the oyster liquor they were blanched in. Season to the
palate with cayenne and lemon juice.
_Currie._
CUT two young chickens into pieces, and blanch and drain them dry; then
put them into a stewpan with two table spoonfuls of currie powder and a
gill of veal stock, and stew them gently till half done. Then cut into
slices three middling-sized onions, and put them into a stewpan with a
table spoonful of currie powder, a quart of veal stock, two ounces of
jordan almonds blanched and pounded fine, and boil till the onions are
tender; then rub it through a tamis sieve to the chicken, and season to
the palate with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon or tamarind juice. Let
the chickens stew till three parts done, then pour the liquor into
another stewpan, and add three ounces of fresh butter, a very little
flour and water, and reduce it to three gills. Strain it through a tamis
sieve to the chickens, and let them simmer till tender.
N. B. Rabbits may be done in the same manner.
_Plain Rice to be eaten with Currie._
PICK one pound of rice, and wash it very clean; then have ready some
boiling water and put the rice in. Let it simmer till three parts done,
and strain and wash it in several waters till free from slime. Drain it
in a large hair sieve, and when dry put it into a stewpan with some
paper and the cover over it. Set it in a moderate oven for one hour and
a half, or longer, if there be a greater quantity.
_Currie of Lobster._
BOIL lobsters till three parts done, and pick and cut the claws and
tails into good-sized pieces; then add currie powder, and proceed with
the same directions as with the chickens, only pound the body of the
lobsters and spawn, if any, and add them to the almonds and other
ingredients.
_Currie of Veal._
CUT a piece of breast of veal into tendrons, and fry them in a little
lard till of a light colour; then drain them dry, add currie powder, and
proceed with the same directions as for chicken currie.
_Currie of Mutton._
TAKE three pounds of the best end of a loin of mutton, cut off the bone
and some of the fat; then cut the meat into small square pieces, fry
them, and proceed with the same directions as for veal.
_Pig's Head Currie._
TAKE a young porker's head, cleave it in half, blanch and wash it, then
cut it into small thick pieces, fry them, and dress in the same manner
as veal and mutton; only omit the fresh butter, as there will be a
sufficient quantity of fat.
_Directions for roasting._
OBSERVE that in roasting it requires a good quick fire, but not too
strong, and the meats should be well-jointed, trimmed neat, and covered
with paper to preserve it from being too high a colour. Beef and mutton
should not be done too much; veal, pork, and lamb, should be done well;
and some little time before it is to be served up, take the paper off,
sprinkle the meat with salt, and when of a proper colour, froth it with
butter and flour. Large poultry to be papered and done in the same
manner; but small poultry, such as chickens, woodcocks, rabbits, wild
fowls, &c. will not require papering. The time the several articles will
take roasting depends upon a little practice, as the weather and the
different strengths of fires make a material alteration. I have given
directions for some particular roasts which require a preparation; as
for others which are served with sauces, they may be found under their
respective heads: and for the trimmings of meat, &c. I have wrote a
receipt to make into soup, or they may be put into the beef stock pot.
_Soup for a Family._
CUT the particles of meat from the trimmings of different joints, as
beef, mutton, veal, pork, &c. and when done put the bones into a pot,
cover with water, and boil them till the goodness is extracted. Then
strain the liquor, wash the trimmings of the vegetables, such as
turnips, carrots, onions, leeks, celery, and a little cabbage. Cut all
small, put them into a pot with the above liquor and some split peas;
boil till the peas are tender, add a little dry mint, and rub it through
a tamis cloth or sieve. Then season the meat with pepper and salt,
sweated down till three parts tender, and add the pulp. Boil all
together till the meat is done, skim it and serve it up with fried bread
in the form of dice.
_To prepare a Haunch of Venison, or Mutton, for roasting._
TAKE great care the venison is well hung and good. Wipe it, take the
skin from the top part, and put butter and plenty of salt over it; then
put paste confined on with four or five sheets of paper braced with
packthread. Roast it gently, and ten minutes before it is done, take off
the paper, let it colour gradually, and froth it with flour and butter.
Serve up with the venison warm currant jelly in a boat, and some good
gravy with a little red port in it in another sauce boat.
_To roast Woodcocks or Snipes._
TAKE out the trail, then roast the birds, and ten minutes before they
are done bake a toast, put the trail into a stewpan, with a little
cullis and fresh butter, and boil them together. When the woodcocks are
to be served up put the sauce over the toast, and the woodcocks upon it.
N. B. If the woodcocks are thin roast them with a bard of bacon over.
_To roast Larks._
TAKE the entrails out of the birds, wash and wipe them dry, put them
upon a lark spit, with small thin slices of fat bacon and a piece of a
vine or green sage leaf between each, if approved; and while roasting,
put over them crumbs of bread, or roast them plain. When they are done,
serve them up with fried breadcrumbs round them, and melted butter in a
sauce boat.
_To fry Breadcrumbs._
RUB crumbs of bread through a hair sieve, have ready a clean frying pan,
put them into it with a piece of fresh butter, set them over a moderate
fire, keep stirring with a wooden spoon till they are of a light brown
colour, and put them upon a plate.
_Turkeys._
TO be roasted with a stuffing in the breast, and served with bread sauce
in a boat.
_Rabbits._
TO be roasted either plain, or a stuffing, with the liver chopped in it,
put into the belly, and served up with parsley and butter in a boat.
_Hares._
TO be dressed in the same manner as rabbits, with stuffing; but served
up with cullis and fresh butter put over, and warm currant jelly in a
sauce boat.
_Hare roasted another way._
STUFF as above, and while roasting drudge it with flour, baste it with
milk, and so alternately till a quarter of an hour before the hare is
done; then baste it with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter put into
the dripping pan. Serve it up with a cullis sauce and butter put over,
and currant jelly in a sauce boat.
N. B. Baste it repeatedly, as there must be a good crust over. It will
require three pints of warm milk for that purpose.
_Pigeons._
MAY be roasted with a little stuffing in them, or plain; and served up
with parsley and butter.
_Quails, or Ruffs and Rees._
TO be roasted with bards of bacon and vine leaves over them, with sauce
in a boat made with cullis and red port in it.
_Guinea Fowls, Pea Fowls, Pullets, Chickens, and Turkey Poults._
TO be roasted either larded or plain, and served up with gravy under,
and bread and egg sauces in separate boats.
_Wild Fowl._
TO be roasted plain, not done too much, and served up with onion sauce
in a boat; as also a small quantity of gravy and red port boiled
together.
_Partridges and Pheasants._
TO be roasted plain, and served up with poivrade sauce hot, and bread
sauce in boats.
_Green Geese and Ducklings._
TO be roasted with pepper and salt put in the bellies, and served with
green sauce in a boat.
_Other Geese and tame Ducks._
TO be roasted with onion and sage chopped fine, seasoned with pepper and
salt put into the inside, and served up with apple sauce in a boat.
_To roast a Pig._
MAKE a stuffing with chopped sage, two eschallots, two eggs,
breadcrumbs, and fresh butter, and season with pepper and salt; put it
into the belly, sew it up, spit it, and rub it over with a paste brush
dipped in sweet oil. Roast it gently, and when done cut off the head;
then cut the body and the head in halves, lay them on a dish, put the
stuffing with the brains into a stewpan, add to them some good gravy,
make it boil, and serve up the pig with the sauce under it.
_To roast Sweetbreads._
BLANCH heart sweetbreads till half done, then wash and wipe them dry,
cut off some of the pipe, put yolk of eggs on the tops with a paste
brush, and strew fine breadcrumbs over. Roast them gently till done and
of a nice colour, serve them up with a toast under and melted butter
poured over, together with some cullis sauce round.
_To roast Ribs of Beef._
BONE the beef, roll it round like a fillet of veal, put a good stuffing
in the center, bind it tight, roast it gently, and serve it up with
brown oyster sauce round it.
_Fillet of Veal._
TO be done in the same manner as the above, with white oyster or cullis
sauce round.
_Observations on Meat and Poultry._
MEATS to be preferred when of a good fatness and the lean appears juicy,
but not particularly streaked with fat, as it then frequently happens to
eat hard. When the season will permit let it hang for a week, and not
more, as I have found that period bring it to its best state. Poultry,
likewise, should be chosen tolerably fat and of a soft grain. Let them
hang three or four days, which will add to their better eating; except
woodcocks, snipes, larks, or pigs, which should be dressed fresh. Be
particular that the poultry are trussed very neat.
_Stuffing for Turkies, Hares, Veal, &c._
CHOP very fine beef suet, parsley, thyme, eschallots, a very small
quantity of marjoram, savory, basil, and lemon peel, with grated nutmeg,
two eggs (or milk), pepper, salt, and an anchovie chopped (if approved).
Mix all well together.
_Gravy for Roast Meat, Steaks, and Poultry._
CUT slices of chuck beef, veal, and lean ham; pare onions, turnips, a
carrot, and cut them with celery; then add a bunch of parsley and thyme,
a few whole pepper, and a little mace. Put all the ingredients into a
stewpan, set them over a moderate fire, sweat down till the liquor
becomes of a light brown colour, and be careful not to let it burn.
Discharge it with water or beef stock, season to the palate with salt,
and, if required, add a little liquid of colour. Let it simmer till the
meat is perfectly done, skim it free from fat, and strain it through a
tamis cloth.
_Peloe of Rice._
WASH, pick, and dress, in the same manner as the directions for plain
rice, observing only, that, before it is to be set in the oven, add a
little pounded mace with the rice; and put into a stewpan a chicken half
boiled and a piece of pickle pork three parts boiled, and cover with the
rice. When it is to be served up, put the fowl and pork at the bottom of
the dish, the rice over, and garnish with boiled or fried button onions
and halves of hard eggs, which should be hot.
_Peloe of Rice another way._
WASH and pick two pounds of rice, boil it in plenty of water till half
done, with a dozen of whole cardamum seeds; then drain it, pick out the
seeds, put the rice into a stewpan, with three quarters of a pound of
fresh butter and some pounded mace, and salt to the palate. Take a loin
of house lamb or some fresh pork cut into small pieces; put them into a
frying-pan, add cinnamon, cloves, cummin and cardamum seeds, a small
quantity of each pounded and sifted, with a bit of butter and some
cayenne pepper, and fry the meat till half done. Then take two bay
leaves, four good-sized onions sliced, and add to them a pint and a half
of veal stock. Boil them till tender and rub them through a tamis cloth
or sieve; then boil the liquor over a fire till it is reduced to half a
pint, add it to the fried meat and spices, together with some peeled
button onions boiled. Then put some of the rice at the bottom of another
stewpan, then a layer of meat and onions on the rice, and so on
alternately till the whole is put in. Cover the pan close, set it in a
moderately heated oven for two hours and a half, and when it is to be
served up turn the rice out carefully on a dish.
_Timbol of Rice._
PICK, wash, and parboil the rice; then strain it, put it into a stewpan
with a little oiled butter and yolk of egg. Simmer it gently till
tender; then fill an oval tin mould with the rice, press it down close,
take the shape out of the mould, wash it lightly with a paste brush with
yolk of egg, and set it in a quick oven. When it is a good colour cut a
square piece out of the top, scoop out the inside, and fill the cavity
with fricassee of chickens, or any thing else you please.
_Petit Patties of Chicken and Ham._
SHEET the pans with puff paste, and put a bit of crumb of bread the
bigness of a dice in each; then cover them with more paste, trim round
the pan, wash the tops of the paste with egg, and bake the patties of a
light colour. When they are to be served up take out the bread, have
ready the white meat of dressed fowl, lean ham, an eschallot chopped
fine, a spoonful of consumé of veal, a little cream, flour, salt,
cayenne, and lemon juice, a small quantity of each. Mix all the
ingredients together over a fire, boil them for five minutes, fill the
patties with it, and serve them up very hot.
_Patties of Lobsters or Oysters._
BAKE patties as before directed, fill them with lobsters or oysters
chopped, add to them a little strong consumé of veal, a small quantity
of flour, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, a bit of lemon peel, an eschallot
chopped fine, an anchovie rubbed through a sieve, and mixed over a fire
for five minutes.
N. B. The lobsters or oysters are to be half boiled before they are
chopped.
_Forcemeat Patties._
SHEET the pans as for chicken patties, but instead of bits of bread fill
them with a light forcemeat well-seasoned. Cover and bake them, and
serve them up with a little cullis added to the forcemeat.
_Pulpton of Chicken, Rabbits, &c._
TAKE veal suet or beef marrow, chop it, put it into a stewpan over a
fire till melted, and when lukewarm mix it to some flour with a little
water into a paste. Knead it well, and rub fresh butter round the inside
of a mould of any shape, and strew vermicelli upon the butter. Then
sheet the mould over the vermicelli with the paste rolled of the
thickness of half an inch, and within the paste put a layer of chicken,
slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, truffles, and
morells; after which put a little light forcemeat round with a paste
over, close it well, egg, and bake it gently. When to be served up, turn
it out of the mould, make a little hole in the top, and put into it a
good cullis.
N. B. Cut the chicken in pieces and blanch them; the sweetbreads,
truffles, and morels to be blanched, and afterwards season with pepper
and salt.
_Fishmeagre Pie._
BONE and cut into pieces a male carp; make it into a forcemeat with some
of the roe, parsley, thyme, eschallots chopped very fine, a quarter of a
pound of fresh butter, pepper, salt, a little beaten spice, half a pint
of cream, four eggs, and crumb of french bread. Afterwards take pieces
of eel, salmon, and skate, pass them with sweet herbs, pepper, salt,
lemon juice, and a bit of butter. When they are cold, put some of the
forcemeat at the bottom of a deep dish, and mix with the fish some
stewed mushrooms, button onions, truffles and morells blanched, and the
roe cut into pieces, and put them into the dish with more forcemeat
round the top; then cover with puff paste, ornament with leaves of
paste, egg it, and bake it. When it is to be served up cut a small hole
in the center of the top, and add a good cullis.
_Raised Ham Pie, with Directions for making a raised Crust._
TAKE water boiling hot, put a piece of fresh butter into it, and mix it
with flour into a paste, and as it gets cold knead it several times,
taking care it is of a good consistence but not too stiff, and then
raise it into any shape you please. Have ready part of a ham boiled till
half done, trim it to the shape of the crust, which must be big enough
to put some light forcemeat at the bottom and round the ham when in the
pie. Cover it with the same kind of paste, pinch round the top, and egg
and ornament it. Just before it is set in the oven add half a pint of
madeira wine, bake it gently for four hours, and when it is to be served
up add some good cullis, but be careful it is not too salt.
_Raised Chicken Pie._
CUT chicken into pieces, and put them into a stewpan, either blanched or
not, with a bit of fresh butter, lemon juice, pepper and salt, parsley,
thyme, eschallots chopped very fine, and a little pounded mace. When the
chicken are half done put them on a dish, and when cold raise the crust,
put light forcemeat at the bottom, the chicken upon it, and more
forcemeat round the top. Cover, bake gently, and when served up, cut off
the lid, and add a ragout of sweetbreads, cocks combs, &c. &c.
N. B. Rabbits and veal may be done in the same manner; as also pigeons,
but they are to be put into the crust whole.
_Flat Chicken Pie (or Tourte)._