THE
ART OF COOKERY
_MADE EASY AND REFINED_.
[Transcriber's Notes: Text that was superscripted in the original is
framed as w^{th.}. Spelling in this text is fluid and archaic. Changes
made are noted in the list at the end of this text.]
THE ART OF COOKERY _MADE EASY AND REFINED_;
COMPRISING
AMPLE DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING EVERY ARTICLE REQUISITE FOR FURNISHING
THE TABLES
OF THE
NOBLEMAN, GENTLEMAN, AND TRADESMAN.
BY
JOHN MOLLARD, COOK;
Lately one of the Proprietors of Freemasons' Tavern, Great
Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields; now removed to
Dover Street, Piccadilly, formerly THOMAS'S.
_SECOND EDITION._
_LONDON_:
PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,
AND SOLD BY J. NUNN, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S
INN FIELDS, AND ALL BOOKSELLERS IN TOWN
AND COUNTRY.
1802.
_T. Bensley, Bolt Court, Fleet Street._
PREFACE.
THE mode of cookery which the author of the following sheets has pursued
for a series of years having obtained the most distinguished approbation
of the public, has induced him to commit his practice to paper; in doing
which, a deviation has been made from the usual introductory methods of
other treatises of the kind, in omitting to give particular directions
for the choice of fish, meats, poultry, and vegetables, and at what
times they respectively might be in season, &c. &c. the author
conceiving the simpler method to be the most acceptable: and,
therefore, as actual knowledge must ever supersede written forms, he
would advise a frequent attendance at the different markets, fully
assured that experience will convey greater instruction in marketing
than all the theories which could be advanced. There are, nevertheless,
some useful observations interspersed in the course of the work for that
purpose; the author having confined himself chiefly to the practical
part of cookery; he has also given some directions in a branch of the
confectionary business: in both of which it has been his constant
endeavour that they might be rendered as simple and easy as possible,
and that economy might pervade the whole.
The receipts are written for the least possible quantities in the
different made-dishes and sauces, it being a frequent error in most of
the books that they are too expensive and too long; by which means the
art has been rendered intricate in the extreme, both in theory and
practice.
Independent, also, of a close adherence to any given rules, there are
other qualities essential to the completion of a thorough cook; such as,
an acute taste, a fertile invention, and a rigid attention to
cleanliness.
The preceding hints and subsequent directions, it is hoped, will prove
fully adequate to perfection in cookery; the work being entirely
divested of the many useless receipts from other professions, (which
have been uniformly introduced in books of the like nature,) and
nothing inserted but what has an immediate reference to the art itself.
There is prefixed a Bill of Fare for each month in the year, as a
specimen of the seasons, which may be altered as judgment directs. There
is annexed, also, at the end of the volume, an Index, by which, from the
first letter or word of the different articles, will be found their
respective receipts.
February 2d, 1802.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Beef stock 1
Veal stock, for soups ib.
Consumé, or the essence of meat 2
Cullis, or a thick gravy ib.
Liquid of colour for sauces, &c. 3
Benshamelle 4
To make a passing of flour and butter for cullis
or benshamelle ib.
Soup a la reine 5
Crayfish soup ib.
Vermicelli soup (white) 6
To make a leason ib.
Cleared brown stock for gravy soups ib.
Rice soup 7
Celery soup 8
Turnip soup ib.
Cressey soup ib.
Santé, or spring soup 9
Onion soup 10
Green peas soup ib.
Old peas soup 11
Peas soup another way 12
Giblet soup 13
Fish Meagré soup 14
Mock turtle of calf's head ib.
Mutton broth 15
Real turtle 16
Callipee 19
Glaize for hams, larding, roasted poultry, &c. 20
Fish plain boiled, how to be prepared 21
Fish generally fried 22
---- to prepare for frying, &c. 23
Broiled fish, how prepared ib.
------ salmon ditto 24
------ mackarel, common way 25
To stew fish ib.
Water souchée of perch, flounders, soles, eels, &c. 26
Roasted pike or sturgeon ib.
Bacquillio with herbs 27
Entrée of eels 28
------ of soles ib.
------ of whitings, &c. 29
------ of salmon ib.
------ of smelts, &c. 30
------ of mackarel 31
Mackarel the german way ib.
Olios, or a spanish dish 32
The olio, how to be made 34
Hodge podge, or english olio 36
Light forcemeat for pies or fowls, &c. 38
Forcemeat balls for ragouts, &c. ib.
Egg for balls 39
Omlets of eggs for garnishing or cutting in slips ib.
Ox cheek 40
Beef tails 41
Haricot sauce 41
Beef collops 42
Fillet of beef larded ib.
Beef palates 43
Rump of beef a-la-daube, or braised ib.
To make Spanish onion sauce 44
Savoy sauce ib.
Ashée sauce 45
Brisket of beef with Spanish onions ib.
------- with ashée or haricot 46
Rump of beef a-la mode ib.
Baked beef 47
Marrow bones 48
Mutton rumps marinated ib.
To make marinate 49
Haricot mutton cutlets ib.
Fillet of mutton with cucumbers 50
Stewed cucumbers ib.
Mutton cutlets with potatoes 51
------ a la Maintenon 52
Cutlets a la Irish stew 53
Pork cutlets with red or white cabbage ib.
To stew cabbage 54
Pork cutlets with robert sauce ib.
To make robert sauce 55
Pork cutlets another way ib.
Fillet of pork roasted 56
Pigs feet and ears ib.
To prepare pigs feet and ears 57
Compotte of pigeons ib.
Pigeons a la craupidine 58
Pigeons glaized 59
Pigeons a la sousell ib.
Hashed calf's head 60
Breast of veal en gallentine 61
Breast of veal ragout ib.
Neck of veal en erison 62
Neck of veal larded 63
Veal cutlets larded ib.
Loin of veal a la cream 64
Veal tendrons (brown or white) 65
Celery sauce, (white), for veal, chickens, turkies,&c. 66
Celery sauce, (brown), for pullets, &c. ib.
Veal cutlets au natural 67
Veal collops (brown) ib.
------------ (white) 68
Fricando veal 69
Sorrel sauce ib.
Veal olives 70
Breast of veal with oysters ib.
Lamb's head minced 71
Breast of lamb with benshamelle 72
Breast or tendrons of lamb en matelote ib.
------ of lamb with peas 73
To stew peas for sauce, for lamb, veal, chickens, &c. ib.
Lamb cutlets with cucumbers 74
Neck of lamb glaized 75
Onion sauce ib.
Lamb cutlets with tendrons ib.
Turnip sauce 76
Lamb cutlets with tendrons another way 77
Shoulder of lamb glaized 77
---------------- en epigram 78
---------------- grilled ib.
Hind quarter of lamb marinated 79
-------------------- with spinach 80
Leg of lamb with oysters ib.
Currie 81
Plain rice to be eaten with currie 82
Currie of lobster 83
----- of veal ib.
------ of mutton ib.
Pig's head currie 84
Directions for roasting ib.
Soup for a family 85
To prepare a haunch of venison, or mutton, for
roasting 86
To roast woodcocks or snipes 87
-------- larks 88
To fry breadcrumbs ib.
To roast turkies 89
-------- rabbits ib.
-------- hares ib.
-------- hares another way ib.
-------- pigeons 90
-------- quails, or ruffs and rees ib.
-------- guinea fowls, pea fowls, pullets, chickens,
and turkey poults 91
-------- wild fowl ib.
-------- partridges and pheasants ib.
-------- green geese and ducklings ib.
-------- other geese and tame ducks 92
-------- a pig 92
-------- sweetbreads 93
-------- ribs of beef ib.
-------- fillet of veal ib.
Observations on meat and poultry 94
Stuffing for turkies, hares, veal, &c. ib.
Gravy for roast meat, steaks, and poultry 95
Peloe of rice ib.
------------- another way 96
Timbol of rice 97
Petit patties of chicken and ham 98
Patties of lobsters or oysters 99
Forcemeat patties ib.
Pulpton of chicken, rabbits, &c. 100
Fishmeagre pie 101
Raised ham pie, with directions for making a
raised crust 102
Raised chicken pie 103
Flat chicken pie (or tourte) ib.
Pigeon pie 104
Raised turkey pie with a tongue 105
------ macaroni pie 106
------ beef steak pie ib.
Veal pie 107
Pork pie 108
Eel pie 109
Mutton pie ib.
Sea pie 110
Rissoles ib.
To fry parsley 111
Puffs with chicken, &c. ib.
Wings and legs of fowls with colours 112
----- larded and glaized 113
Fowl a la Menehout 114
Pulled chicken (or turkey) ib.
Another way 115
Pullet a la Memorancy ib.
Chickens with lemon sauce 116
To make lemon sauce ib.
Fricassee of chickens or rabbits (white) 117
Chickens or turkies with celery 118
Turkies, pullets, or chickens, with oyster sauce ib.
To make white oyster sauce ib.
Chickens with peas 119, 120
Fricassee of chickens or rabbits (brown) ib.
To fry oysters for a dish 121
Directions for poultry, &c. plain boiled ib.
Jugged hare 122
Glaized hare 123
Duck aux naves ib.
A duck with cucumbers 124
------ a la benshamelle 125
Hashed mutton ib.
------ venison 126
------ fowls 127
------ hare, wild fowl, pheasants, or partridges 128
Broiled beef steaks ib.
Beef steak pudding 129
Oyster sauce for beef steaks 130
To dress mutton, lamb, or pork chops in a plain
manner ib.
To dress veal cutlets 131
Minced veal for a dish ib.
----------- another way 132
Partridges or pheasants au choux ib.
----------------------- with truffles 133
Turkey with truffles 134
Truffle sauce for turkies, &c. ib.
Turkey with chesnuts 135
------ with ragout 136
Rabbits with onions ib.
Glaized sweetbreads 137
Matelote of rabbits ib.
Sweetbreads en erison 138
Stewed giblets plain ib.
------ with peas 139
Green truffles for a dish ib.
Rabbits en gallentine for a dish 140
Ham braised ib.
Jerusalem artichokes stewed 141
-------------------- another way 142
Mashed potatoes ib.
Cauliflower with parmezan cheese 143
----------- a la sauce ib.
----------- a la cream 144
Stewed artichoke bottoms ib.
French beans a la cream for a dish 145
Stewed cardoons ib.
Vegetables in a mould 146
Broiled mushrooms 147
Stewed mushrooms (brown) and (white) 147, 148
Mashed turnips ib.
Potatoes creamed 149
Stewed watercresses ib.
A neat dish of vegetables 150
Vegetable pie ib.
Fried potatoes 151
Fried onions with parmezan cheese 152
Pickle tongue forced 153
Stewed endive ib.
Forced cucumbers 154
To stew peas for a dish ib.
Salad of asparagus 155
Asparagus peas ib.
--------- another way 156
Stewed asparagus for sauce 157
Directions for vegetables ib.
Pickled oysters 158
Oyster atlets 159
Scollop oysters 160
Oyster loaves 161
Ragout of sweetbreads (brown) ib.
--------------------- (white) 162
Poached eggs with forrel or endive 163
Buttered eggs ib.
Fried eggs, &c. 164
Eggs a la trip 165
Omlet of eggs ib.
Fricassee of tripe 167
Lambs tails and ears ib.
Curried atlets 168
To stew maccaroni 169
Stewed cheese ib.
To prepare a batter for frying different articles,
being a sufficient quantity for one dish 170
Fried celery ib.
----- peths 171
----- sweetbreads ib.
----- artichoke bottoms ib.
----- tripe and onions 172
Hard eggs fried ib.
To dress a lamb's fry 173
--------------------- another way ib.
Puffs with forcemeat of vegetables ib.
Rammequins 174
To dress part of a wild boar 175
Plovers eggs, to be served up different ways 176
Buttered lobsters ib.
Meat cake 177
Collared pig 178
Red beef for slices 179
Savory jelly 180
Aspect of fish 181
------ of meat or fowl 182
Canopies 183
Salmagundy ib.
Salad of lobster 184
French salad 185
Blancmange ib.
Dutch blancmange 186
Riband blancmange 187
Cleared calves feet jelly ib.
Marbrée jelly 188
Bagnets a l'eau 189
Apple fritters for a dish 190
Golden pippins a la cream 191
-------------- another way 192
Stewed pippins another way 193
Cream for pies 193
Mince meat 194
Compote of oranges 195
Tea cream 196
Virgin cream 197
Coffee cream ib.
Burnt cream ib.
Pastry cream 198
Almond paste ib.
Cheese cakes 199
Almond nuts 200
To make syllabub ib.
Trifle 201
Tarts or tartlets 202
Paste for stringing tartlets ib.
To stew apples for tarts 203
Fried puffs with sweetmeats 204
Pyramid paste ib.
Icing for a cake 206
Cherries in brandy for desserts ib.
To make buns 207
Orgeat ib.
Orange marmalade 208
Raspberry jam 209
Quince jam 210
Green gage jam ib.
Apricot jam 211
Preserved apricots for tarts or desserts ib.
Currant jelly 212
Crisp tart paste 213
Eggs and bacon another way ib.
To make puff paste 214
------- an almond cake 215
Almond custards 216
Rhubarb tart ib.
Orange pudding 217
Rice pudding 218
Tansey pudding 219
Almond pudding ib.
Marrow pudding 220
Bread pudding ib.
A rich plum pudding 221
Batter pudding ib.
Boiled apple pudding 222
Apple dumplings 223
Baked apple pudding ib.
Damson pudding 224
-------------- another way ib.
Baked fruit pudding another way 225
Muffin pudding with dried cherries 226
Potatoe pudding 227
Carrot pudding ib.
Ice cream 228
Observation on stores ib.
Partridge soup 229
Collared eels 230
White puddings 231
Sausage meat 232
Calf's liver roasted 233
To dry herbs ib.
To make anchovie liquor to be used in fish sauces 234
Potted lobster ib.
To clarify butter for potting 235
Potted cheese 236
------ veal 236
------ larks or small birds 237
To dry morells, mushrooms, and champignons 238
Mushroom powder ib.
Potted beef 239
Tarragon vinegar ib.
Walnut ketchup for fish sauces 240
To pickle tongues, &c. ib.
India pickle 241
To dry artichoke bottoms 243
To pickle cucumbers, &c. 244
Rules to be observed in pickling 245
To pickle onions 246
--------- mushrooms ib.
--------- beet roots 247
--------- artichoke bottoms 248
--------- large cucumbers 249
--------- red cabbage 250
--------- currants 251
--------- barberries ib.
Sour crout 252
Peas pudding, to be eaten with boiled pork 253
Currie, or pepper water 254
Grills and sauce, which are generally eaten after
dinner 255
Salmé of woodcocks 256
To make a haggess ib.
French black puddings 257
Milk punch 258
Plum pottage 259
Candied orange or lemon peels 260
Lemonade or orangeade 261
Poivrade sauce for game, Maintenon cutlets, &c. 261
Lobster sauce for fish 262
Oyster sauce for fish 263
Shrimp sauce for fish 264
Dutch sauce for fish ib.
Anchovie sauce for fish 265
Observations in respect of fish sauces, &c. ib.
Apple sauce, for pork, geese, &c. 267
Green sauce for ducklings or green geese 268
Fennel sauce for mackarel ib.
Bread sauce, for turkies, game, &c. 269
Melted butter ib.
To make melon citron 270
Rusks, or tops and bottoms 271
Wafers ib.
Cracknels 272
To bake pears 273
To clarify sugar ib.
Syrup of cloves, &c. 274
----- golden pippins 275
----- capillaire 276
Flowers in sugar ib.
Syrup of roses 277
To preserve cucumbers ib.
----------- currants 278
----------- barberries 279
Gooseberry fool 280
Sago 281
Oatmeal pottage, or gruel ib.
To bottle gooseberries, &c. for tarts 282
----------------------- another way 283
Small cakes ib.
Diet bread cake 284
Sponge biscuits ib.
Common seed cake 285
Cinnamon cakes ib.
To make red colouring for pippin paste, &c. for
garnishing twelfth cakes 286
Twelfth cakes ib.
Bristol cakes 287
Hyde park corner cakes 288
Good gingerbread nuts ib.
Bride cake 289
Rice cakes 290
Bath cakes 291
Pancakes ib.
Shrewsbury cakes 292
Portugal cakes, or heart cakes 293
Macaroons ib.
Mirangles 294
Ratafias 295
Lemon puffs ib.
Chantilly basket 296
Green codlins, frosted with sugar 297
Pound cake ib.
Yest cake 298
Rich plum cake 299
Dried cherries 300
Pippins with rice 301
To make English bread ib.
French bread 302
Pulpton of apples 303
A sweet omlet of eggs 304
To keep cucumbers for winter use for sauces ib.
To preserve mushrooms for sauces 305
Pullet roasted with batter ib.
Dutch beef 306
Mushroom ketchup ib.
Suet pudding 307
Savoy cake 308
Nutmeg syrup ib.
Sweetbreads with veal and ham 309
Essence of ham for sauces 310
Ox heart roasted ib.
Slices of cod fried with oysters 311
Small crusts to be eaten with cheese or wine after
dinner ib.
Devilled almonds 312
Boiled tripe and onions ib.
------ sweetbreads 313
Broiled sweetbreads ib.
Conclusion, with remarks 314
ERRATA.
Page 43, line 1 and 2, for _beef pallets_ read _beef palates_.
---- 61, ---- 19, ---- _half_ read _halves_.
---- 77, ---- 17, ---- _tarragon of vinegar_ read _tarragon
vinegar_.
---- 177, ---- 18, ---- _pickled_ read _picked_.
---- 183, ---- 19, ---- _solomongundy_ read _salmagundy_.
[Illustration:
For January.
_1^{st.} Course_
_Soup Santé_
_Small Ham_
_Tendlons Veal white_
_Slises Crimp'd Cod_
_M^{d.} & whole Potatoes_
_Rump Beef glaiz^{d} w^{th.} Harricott_
_Brocoli_
_Whitings Broil'd_
_Pullet w^{th.} Oyster Sauce_
_Raiz'd Lamb Pies_
_Mock'd Turtle_
2^{d.} Course
_Wood Cocks Roast._
_Scollop Shells_
_Stew'd Mushrooms_
_Apple Fritters_
_Triffle_
_Shellfish in an Ornamented Ba^{s.}_
_Jelly_
_Fry'd Puffs w^{th.} Sweetmeats_
_Stew'd Cardoons_
_Omlett w^{th.} Cullis_
_Partridges Roast._
Neele Sc. Strand]
[Illustration: FEBRUARY.
_1^{st.} Course_
_Soup Cressey_
_Frieandd Veal w^{th.} Sorrell_
_Petite Patties_
_Tongue w^{th.} M^{d.} Turnips_
_Fillet Mutton Roasted w^{th.} Celleri_
_Chickens Boil'd_
_Beef Pallets_
_Cutlets Pork w^{th.} Stew'd red Cabbage_
_Rice Soup_
_Crimp'd Seaite_ }
} _to remove Soup_
_Water Soucher_ }
_2^{d.} Course_
_Capon Roasted_
_Golding Pippins Cream'd_
_Lobster Sallad_
_Forc'd Asparagus_
_Sweetbread Roast_
_Forc'd French Beans_
_Slic'd Brawn_
_Teal Roast_
_Ribband Blancmange_
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
[Illustration: MARCH.
_1^{st.} Course_
_Soup and Boullie_
_Soles Fry'd and Boild_
_Crimp'd Cods Head_
_Soup ala Reine_
_2^{d.} Course_
_Fillet Pork Roast._
_Harricott of Begetables_
_Potatoes Mash'd_
_French Pie_
_Mash'd Turnips_
_Veal Olives_
_Leg Lamb and Spinach_
_3^{d.} Course_
_Turkey Roast._
_Marbree Jelly_
_Tourte_
_Brocoli ala Sauce_
_Pick'd Crabb_
_Sausages_
_Pyrimid of Paste_
_Large Pidgeons Roast._
_Pippins w^{th.} Rice_
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
[Illustration: APRIL.
_1^{st.} Course_
_Mock'd Turtle_
_Tongue Boild &c._
_Chickens w^{th.} Sweetbreads White_
_Sallad_
_Beef Forc'd and Roasted w^{th.} Oy^{s.} Sauce_
_Rice_
_Currie_
_Vermiceli Soup_
_Cutlets Lamb_
_Crimp'd Salmon & Fry'd Smelts_ }
} _to remove Soup_
_Stew'd Tench_ }
_2^{d.} Course_
_Levrett Roast_
_Apricot tart w^{th.} Carrimel_
_Dutch Blancmange_
_Stew'd Cellery_
_Prawnes_
_Mushrooms Broild_
_Almond Cake_
_Ducklings Roast._
_Apple Tart_
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
[Illustration: MAY
_1^{st.} Course_
_Giblet Soup_
_Mullets Broild_
_Turbot_
_Spring Soup_
_2^{d.} Course_
_Haunch Mutton roast_
_Potatoes Each way_
_Compotte of Pidgeons_
_Chickens_
_Beef Tails Stew'd_
_Ham Glaiz'd_
_Vegetable Puffs Fry'd_
_3^{d.} Course_
_Green Goose Roast_
_Jelly w^{th.} Strawberrys_
_Asparagus_
_Pine Apple Tartlets_
_Goosberry Tart_
_Artichoack Bottoms_
_White Blancmange_
_Turkey Poults Roast_
_Ornament w^{th.} Flowers_
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
[Illustration: JUNE.
_1^{st.} Course_
_Green Peas Soup_
_Chicken Tourte_
_Cutlets Mutton_
_Cauliflowers_
_Roast Beef_
_New Potatoes_
_Tendlons Veal w^{th.} Peas_
_Crimp'd Trout_
_Lambs Head Minc'd_
_2^{d.} Course_
_Duckling Roast._
_Shellfish_
_Cherry Tart_
_French Beans ala Cream_
_Sweetbread Roast._
_Jelly & Blancmange_
_Neck House Lamb Roast._
_Codling tart Cream'd_
_Green Peas_
_Plovers Eggs_
_Pidgeons Roast._
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
[Illustration: JULY.
_1^{st.} Course_
_Rabbits w^{th.} Onions_
_Turtle_
_Chickens_
_Garden Beans_
_Calla Pash_
_Cauliflower_
_Small Ham Glaiz'd_
_Turtle_
_Fillet Lamb w^{th.} Cucumbers_
_2 Small dishes Fish
to remove Turtle_
_2^{d.} Course_
_Goosberry Cream in Cups_
_Haunch Venison roast_
_Apricot Tart_
_French Beans_
_Pick'd Crabb_
_Artichoak Bottoms_
_Raspberry Tourte_
_Poullet roast._
_Mirangles_
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
[Illustration: AUGUST.
_1^{st.} Course_
_Soles Each way_
_Brest Lamb w^{th.} Celleri_
_Pullet w^{th.} Oy^{s.}_
_Potatoes_
_Onion Soup_
_Stew'd Spanish Onions_
_Fillet Beef Larded & Glaiz'd_
_Salmon & Fry'd Fillets of Haddock_
_Raiz'd Ham Pie_
_Small Chine Mutton Roasted to remove the Soup_
_2^{d.} Course_
_Wheat Ears roast_
_Orange Puffs_
_Jelly w^{th.} Peaches_
_Scollop Shells_
_Frame_
_Mushrooms Stew'd White_
_Almond Custards_
_Levrett Roast_
_Pulpton of Apples_
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
[Illustration: SEPTEMBER.
_1^{st.} Course_
_a Pike Baked_
_Fricassee of Chickens_
_Fillet Mutton & Stew'd Endive_
_Fry'd Celleri_
_Turnip Soup_
_French Sallad_
_Fillet Pork Roast_
_Crimp'd Cod and Fry'd Smelts_
_Cutlets Veal Larded_
_2^{d.} Course_
_Partridges Roast_
_Ragout of Sweetbreads_
_Maceroni_
_Muffing pud^{g.} w^{th.} dry'd Cherries_
_Chantillie Baskett_
_Damson Tart_
_Eggs ala Trip_
_Larks Roast_
_Lambs Fry_
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
[Illustration: OCTOBER.
_1^{st.} Course_
_Johndoree_
_Pidgeons ala Craupidine_
_Foule w^{th.} Trouffles Sauce_
_Cauliflower_
_Partridge Soup_
_Stew'd Spinach_
_Chicken Puffs_
_Trout_
_Rump Beef w^{th.} Spanish Onions_
_2^{d.} Course_
_Wild Duck Roast_
_Raspberry Tourte_
_Jellys_
_Fry'd Sweetbreads_
_Ribs House Lamb Roast_
_Oyster Attets_
_Apples Frosted_
_Pheasant Roast_
_Marrow Pud^{g.}_
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
[Illustration: NOVEMBER.
_1^{st.} Course_
_Water Souchee_
_Pickle Tongue Forc'd_
_Raiz'd Pie w^{th.} Macroni_
_Ragout of Vegetables_
_Soup and Boullie_
_Cauliflower & French Beans_
_Chickens w^{th.} Bershamelle_
_Slices Cod Fry'd w^{th.} Oyster Sauce_
_Cutlets Pork w^{th.} Fry'd Potatoes_
_Loine Veale ala Cream to remove Soup_
_2^{d.} Course_
_Wood Cocks Roast_
_Fritters_
_Coffee Cream_
_Jerusalem Artichoaks_
_Potted Beef Moddled_
_Stew'd Water Cresses_
_Preserved Apricot Tart_
_Partridges Roast_
_Golding Pippins w^{th.} Jelly_
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
[Illustration: DECEMBER.
_1^{st.} Course_
_Turbot_
_Leg Lamb w^{th.} Spinach_
_Wings and Legs Fowles Glaiz'd_
_Pidgeon Tourte_
_Hodge Podge_
_Pickled Beet Roots_
_Pheasant Au Choux_
_Crimp'd Cods Head_
_Small Chine Mutton Roast_
_2^{d.} Course_
_Turkey Roast_
_Apple Tart w^{th.} Perfumed Cream_
_Potted Charr_
_Pancakes_
_Stew'd Cardoons Brown_
_Jellies_
_Lambs Tails w^{th.} Bershamelle_
_Minced Pies_
_Prawnes_
_Potatoe Pudding_
_Snipes Roast_
_Neele Sc. Strand_]
THE
ART OF COOKERY.
_Beef Stock._
CUT chuck beef into pieces, put it into a pot, set it on the fire, with
a sufficient quantity of water to cover it. When it boils skim it clean;
add a bunch of parsley and thyme, cleaned carrots, leeks, onions,
turnips, celery, and a little salt. Let the meat boil till tender, skim
off the fat, then strain it through a fine hair sieve.
_Veal Stock, for Soups._
TAKE a leg of veal and some lean ham, cut them into pieces, put them
into a pan with a quart of water, some peeled carrots, turnips, onions,
leeks, and celery; draw them down till nearly tender, but of no colour;
then add a sufficient quantity of beef stock to cover the ingredients,
boil all together one hour, skim it free from fat, and strain it. Some
game drawn down with it will make it excellent.
N. B. I have directed the veal stock not to be drawn down to a colour,
as in that state it will answer two purposes; first, for white soups;
and, secondly, as it might be coloured with a bright liquid to any
height, which will be directed for gravy soups. It frequently happens,
likewise, that, if not strictly attended to, it will burn.
_Consumé, or the Essence of Meat._
REDUCE veal stock to a good consistence, but be careful not to let it
colour.
_Cullis, or a thick Gravy._
TAKE slices of ham, veal, celery, carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, a
small bunch of sweet herbs, some allspice, black pepper, mace, a piece
of lemon-peel, and two bay leaves; put them into a pan with a quart of
water, and draw them down till of a light brown colour, but be careful
not to let it burn; then discharge it with beef stock. When it boils,
skim it very clean from fat, and thicken it with flour and water, or
flour and butter passed. Let it boil gently three quarters of an hour;
season it to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt;
strain it through a tamis cloth or sieve, and add a little liquid of
colour, which may be made as in the following receipt.
_Liquid of Colour for Sauces, &c._
PUT a quarter of a pound of the best brown sugar into a frying pan very
clean from grease, and half a gill of water; set it over a gentle fire,
stirring it with a wooden spoon till it is thoroughly burnt and of a
good bright colour, then discharge it with water; when it boils skim it
and strain it. Put it by for use in a vessel close covered.
_Benshamelle._
TAKE white veal, lean ham, turnips, celery, onions cut in pieces, a
blade of mace, a little whole white pepper; sweat them down till three
parts tender, then discharge it with beef stock. Let it boil, skim it
clean, and thicken with flour and water, or flour and butter passed; add
to it a sufficient quantity of cream to make it quite white. Let it
simmer gently half an hour, and strain it through a tamis cloth.
N. B. Let it be of the thickness of light batter.
_To make a passing of Flour and Butter for Cullis or Benshamelle._
PUT fresh butter into a stewpan over a fire, when it is melted add a
sufficient quantity of sifted flour to make it into a paste, and mix
them together with a whisk over a very slow fire for ten minutes.
_Soup a la Reine._
TAKE three quarts of veal stock with a blade of mace boiled in it; then
strain it to the crumb of four penny french rolls, three quarters of a
pound of sweet almonds blanched and pounded very fine, likewise the
white meat of dressed fowl pounded. Let all simmer together for ten
minutes, and rub them through a tamis cloth till the soup is of a proper
thickness; season it to the palate with salt; make it boil, and serve it
up with a gill of cream in it.
_Crayfish Soup._
TAKE three quarts of veal stock, the crumb of four penny french rolls,
the meats of a hen lobster, and half a hundred crayfish pounded, with
some live lobster spawn; add all together, make it boil, skim it clean,
rub it through a tamis cloth, make it of a middling thickness, and
season to the palate with salt and a little cayenne pepper. Serve it up
with crust of french bread cut into small round pieces.
_Vermicelli Soup, white._
TAKE three quarts of veal stock and two ounces of vermicelli, boil them
together a quarter of an hour, rub it through a tamis cloth, season with
salt, make it boil, skim it, and add a leason. Let it simmer for five
minutes.
_To make the Leason._
TAKE the yolks of four eggs, half a pint of cream, and a little salt,
mixed well together.
_Cleared brown Stock for Gravy Soups._
TAKE three quarts of veal stock perfectly free from fat; add a small
quantity of liquid colour to make it of a fine brown; season to the
palate with salt and a little cayenne pepper; beat up together two
yolks, two whites, and two shells of eggs; whisk them with the stock,
set it over a fire, let it boil gently ten minutes, then strain it
through a tamis cloth. This stock is required for rice, brown
vermicelli, celery, santé, or turnip soups.
N. B. I have directed the brown stock, for gravy soups only, to be
cleared with eggs, as that method has been most approved, it being
pleasant to the eye, and equally agreeable to the palate.
_Rice Soup._
ADD to three quarts of cleared stock two ounces of rice, washed, picked,
parboiled, and drained dry. Let it boil gently till the rice is tender.
_Celery Soup._
CUT celery heads two inches long then, some of the white part into small
pieces; wash, blanch, and drain it, and put to it three quarts of
cleared stock. Make it boil, skim it, and let the celery simmer till
tender.
_Turnip Soup._
PARE good and firm turnips, cut them with a knife or scoop into shapes,
fry them with a bit of lard till of a light brown colour, then drain and
wipe them free from fat (or they may be steamed with a very little
water, to prevent them from burning, till they are half done); then put
to them cleared stock, and boil them gently till tender.
_Cressey Soup._
TAKE twelve large red carrots, scrape them clean, cut off only the red
part in thin slices, and put them in a stewpan with a quart of water;
add cleaned turnips, celery, leeks, and onions, cut in pieces, and half
a pint of split peas. Stew all together till tender, adding some stock
to prevent burning; then rub it through a tamis, and put to the pulp
five pints of veal stock and some blanched water-cresses; make it boil
for twenty minutes, skim it, season it with salt, and serve it up.
N. B. To be the thickness of peas soup.
_Santé, or Spring Soup._
PARE, and cut into shapes, turnips and carrots, likewise celery heads
about two inches long; wash them, and steam them separately with a very
little water till they are three parts done; then cut the white part of
the celery into small pieces, likewise leeks, cabbage, cos lettuces,
endive, and chervil, of each a small quantity; blanch and drain them
dry, then put all the vegetables together; add to them three quarts of
cleared brown stock, and boil them gently till tender. In spring add
young green peas, tops of asparagus, and button onions, steamed as the
above.
N. B. A small piece of bouillie beef may be stewed till tender; and ten
minutes before it is to be served up wipe it dry, and put it into the
soup with the vegetables.
_Onion Soup._
TAKE eight middling-sized peeled onions, cut them into very thin slices,
pass them with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter and flour till
tender; then add three quarts of veal stock; make it boil twenty
minutes; skim it, season it with salt, and add a leason; mix it well
with a whisk, make it simmer, and serve it up.
_Green Peas Soup._
TAKE one quart of young green peas, four turnips pared and cut in the
form of dice, two cos lettuces cut in small slices, two middling-sized
onions cut very fine; wash them, add a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter, and stew them till nearly done. Then take two quarts of large
fresh green peas, and boil them in three quarts of veal stock till
tender; strain and pound them, preserving the liquor; then rub the peas
through a tamis, and add the pulp with the liquor to the above herbs, a
little flour and water, pepper and salt, and season to the palate, with
a bit of sugar if approved. Boil all together half an hour; skim it and
when it is to be served up, add the pulp of some boiled parsley rubbed
through a tamis to make it look green.
N. B. Cut pieces of bread into thin sippets, dry them before the fire,
and serve up on a plate.
_Old Peas Soup._
TAKE chuck beef cut into pieces, knuckles of ham and veal, pickle pork
cut into square pieces of half a pound each; put all into a pot with
peeled turnips, leeks, onions, carrots, and celery, cut into slices, and
some old split peas, with a sufficient quantity of water; when it boils,
skim it, and add a very small bunch of dried mint. Let the ingredients
boil till tender, then take the mint out, rub the soup through a tamis
till of a good thickness; when done, add to the liquor, turnips cut in
form of dice, celery and leeks cut small and washed. Make the soup boil,
skim it, season with pepper and salt, and serve it up with the pork in
it. Some bread cut in form of dice, and fried, to be served up on a
dish.
N. B. The pork to be taken out when nearly done, and added to the soup
half an hour before it is served up.
_Peas Soup another way._
PUT the peas with the above-mentioned vegetables into a pot with some
water; stew them gently till tender, then add a little dried mint, and
rub them through a tamis cloth; put the pulp to some good veal stock,
likewise add some turnips pared and cut into forms like dice, some leeks
and celery cut small and blanched; season to the palate with pepper and
salt; then making it boil, skim it, and stew the herbs till tender.
Serve it up with pieces of pickle pork in it.
N. B. The pickle pork to be cut into small square pieces and boiled till
nearly done, and then added to the soup a quarter of an hour before it
is to be served up to table. Let the soup be of a proper thickness.
_Giblet Soup._
LET the giblets be scalded, picked clean, and cut in pieces; which done,
put them in a stewpan, season them with herbs and spice, the same as for
real turtle; add some veal stock, stew them till nearly done, pick them
free from the herbs, chop the bones down, strain, thicken, and season
the liquor, as for real turtle; make it boil, then add it to the
giblets, stew them till tender, and serve them up with egg and forcemeat
balls.
_Fish Meagré Soup._
TAKE pieces of different sorts of fish, such as salmon, skate, soles,
&c. Sweat them till tender, with turnip, onion, celery, a clove of
garlick, and a blade of mace; then add some plain veal broth. Let all
simmer together for half an hour; then strain and skim it free from fat;
season with salt and cayenne pepper; clear it with white of eggs, and
colour with a little saffron.
N. B. It may be served up with celery or rice in it.
_Mock Turtle of Calf's Head._
TAKE a scalp cleaned by the butcher, scald it for twenty minutes, then
wash it clean, cut it into pieces two inches square, add a gallon of
veal stock, and boil them till nearly done. Have ready some pieces of
veal cut in form of dice, but four times larger, seasoned with herbs,
spices, and onions, the same as real turtle; and strain to it the liquor
the scalp is boiled in. Let the meat simmer till almost done; pick it,
and add to it the scalp with forcemeat and egg balls; then thicken the
liquor as for real turtle, and when it boils skim it clean, put it to
the meats, and simmer all together half an hour.
_Mutton Broth._
TAKE a neck of mutton cut into pieces, preserving a handsome _piece_ to
be served up in the tureen. Put all in a stewpot with three quarts of
cold beef stock, or water with a little oatmeal mixed in it, some
turnips, onions, leeks, celery cut in pieces, and a small bunch of thyme
and parsley. When it boils skim it clean, and take the _piece_ of mutton
out when nearly done, and let the other boil till tender; then have
ready turnips cut in form of dice, some leeks, celery, half a cabbage,
and parsley, all cut small, and some marigolds; wash them, strain the
liquor of the meat, skim it free from fat, add it to the ingredients,
with the _piece_ of mutton, and a little pearl barley if approved;
season with salt, simmer all together till done, and serve it up with
toasted bread on a plate.
_Real Turtle._
HANG the turtle up by the hind fins, and cut off the head overnight; in
the morning cut off the fore fins at the joints, and the callipee all
round; then take out the entrails, and be careful not to break the gall;
after which cut off the hind fins and all the meat from the bones,
callipee and callipash; then chop the callipee and callipash into
pieces; scald them together, the fins being whole, but take care not to
let the scales set. When cleaned, chop the fins into pieces four inches
long; wash the pieces of the callipee, callipash, and fins, and put
them into a pot with the bones and a sufficient quantity of water to
cover; then add a bunch of sweet herbs and whole onions, and skim it
when the liquor boils. When the fins are nearly done take them out,
together with the remainder of the turtle, when done, picked free from
bone. Then strain the liquor and boil it down till reduced to one third
part; after which cut the meat into pieces four times larger than dice;
put it into a pot, add a mixture of herbs chopped fine, such as knotted
marjoram, savory, thyme, parsley, a very little basil, some chopped
onions, some beaten spices, as allspice, a few cloves, a little mace,
black pepper, salt, some veal stock, and the liquor that was reduced.
Boil the meat till three parts done, pick it free from herbs, strain the
liquor through a tamis sieve, make a passing of flour and three quarters
of a pound of fresh butter, mixing it well over a fire for some time,
and then add to it madeira wine, (if a turtle of seventy pounds weight,
three pints,) and the liquor of the meat. When it boils, skim it clean,
season to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt, and
strain it to the pieces of fins and shell in one pot, and the lean meat
into another; and if the turtle produce any real green fat, let it be
boiled till done, then strained, cut into pieces, and added to the fins
and shell, and then simmer each meat till tender. When it is to be
served up, put a little fat at the bottom of the tureens, some lean in
the center, and more fat at the top, with egg and force-meat balls, and
a few entrails.
N. B. The entrails must be cleaned well, then boiled in water till very
tender, and preserved as white as possible, and just before they are
strained off add the balls. If a callipash is served up, the shell to be
cut down on each side, and chop the pieces for the soup; the remaining
part of the back shell to be pasted round with a raised crust, egged,
ornamented, and baked, and the soup served in it in the same manner as
in the tureens.
_Callipee._
TAKE a quarter of the under part of a turtle of sixty pounds weight, and
scald it, and when done, take the shoulder-bone out and fill the cavity
with a good high-seasoned forcemeat made with the lean of the turtle;
put it into a stewpan, and add a pint of madeira wine, cayenne pepper,
salt, lemon juice, a clove of garlick, a little mace, a few cloves and
allspice tied in a bag, a bunch of sweet herbs, some whole onions, and
three quarts of good beef stock. Stew gently till three parts done; then
take the turtle and put it into another stewpan, with some of the
entrails boiled and some egg balls; add a little thickening of flour and
butter to the liquor, let it boil, and strain it to the turtle, &c. then
stew it till tender, and the liquor almost reduced to a glaize. Serve it
up in a deep dish, pasted round as a callipash, ornamented and baked.
N. B. I think the above mode of serving it up in a dish the best, as it
frequently happens that the shell of the callipee is not properly baked.
_Glaize for Hams, Larding, roasted Poultry, &c._
TAKE a leg of veal, lean of ham, beef, some indifferent fowls, celery,
turnips, carrots, onions, leeks cleaned and cut into pieces, a little
lemon peel, mace, and black pepper, a small quantity of each; add three
quarts of water, sweat them down till three parts done, discharge with
water, and boil it till the goodness is extracted; then skim it, and
strain the liquor into a large pan. Next day take the fat from it very
clean; set the stock over a fire, and when warm clear it with whites and
a few yolks of eggs; then add a little colour and strain it through a
tamis; boil it quick till reduced to a glaize, and be careful not to let
it burn.
N. B. In the same manner may be made glaize of separate herbs or roots,
which will be serviceable on board a ship, or in the country, where
herbs or roots cannot be procured at all times; and they are to be
preserved in bottles, as they will not, when cold, be of a portable
substance.
_Fish plain boiled to be prepared thus:_
PUT them in clean boiling pump water well salted, and when served up to
be garnished with fresh picked parsley and scraped horseradish; except
salt fish, which should be properly soaked, then cut in pieces and put
in cold water, and when it boils let it simmer six or eight minutes, and
serve it up on a napkin with boiled parsnips and potatoes round, or on a
plate, and egg sauce in a boat.
N. B. Fish should be chosen very fresh and of good appearance, it adding
as much to their beauty as gratifying to the palate when dressed, there
being in my opinion but two sorts--good and bad. But as an exception to
the above observation, skate will be better for eating if kept for one
or two days in a cool place before it is dressed.
_Fish generally fried._
PIECES of skate.
Whitings.
Fillets of haddocks.
Smelts.
Soles.
Perch.
Flounders.
Slices of hollibut.
Slices of cod.
_To prepare the above for frying, &c._
WIPE the different sorts of fish dry, beat yolk of eggs, and spread it
over them with a paste brush; then put crumbs of bread over the egg.
Have plenty of lard in an iron frying pan, and when it almost boils put
a proper quantity and fry them of a fine gold colour; drain them dry,
and serve them up with fried parsley.
N. B. The crumbs to be rubbed through a hair sieve. The parsley also to
be picked, washed, and dried with a cloth, then to be put into the lard
not very hot, and fried of a green colour. Sprinkle a little salt over.
_Broiled Fish prepared thus:_
WIPE the fish dry, flour them well, and have the gridiron clean; then
rub the bars with a veal caul, and put the fish at a proper distance.
Broil them gently over a clear coal fire till of a fine colour, and
serve them up directly.
N. B. Fish in general to be floured, except herrings, which are only to
be scored with a knife, and the following methods of broiling other fish
to be observed.
_Broiled Salmon to be prepared thus:_
TAKE pieces or slices of salmon, wipe them dry, dip them in sweet oil,
and season with pepper and salt; fold them in pieces of writing paper,
broil over a clear fire, and serve them up very hot.
N. B. In the same manner are to be done red mullets, &c.
_Broiled Mackarel, common way._
WIPE them dry, split them down the back, sprinkle with pepper and salt,
and broil them gently.
_To stew Fish._
ADD to some cullis a few chopped eshallots, anchovies, a bay leaf,
horseradish scraped, a little quantity of lemon peel, and some red port;
season it well with cayenne pepper, salt, and juice of lemon, and when
it boils let it be of a proper thickness, and strain it to the fish;
then stew it gently, and serve it up in a deep dish with the liquor, and
fried bread round it. If carp or tench, some of the hard roe mixed in
batter and fried in pieces. The roes likewise of different fish may be
stewed in the same manner, and served up as a dish of themselves. Eels,
soles, or other fish may be done the same way.
_Water souchée of Perch, Flounders, Soles, Eels, &c._
TAKE perch cleaned and fresh crimped; put them into boiling pump water
well-seasoned with salt, and when they boil, skim them clean. Take them
out with a large skimmer, put them into a deep dish, strew parsley roots
and scalded parsley over, and add some of the liquor. Serve them up as
hot as possible, with slices of brown bread and butter on a plate.
N. B. The time the fish are to boil must be according to their size; and
the parsley roots are to be cleaned, cut into slips, and boiled by
themselves till tender.
_Roasted Pike or Sturgeon._
LET the fish be well cleaned, then make a stuffing of capers,
anchovies, parsley and thyme chopped fine, a little grated nutmeg and
lemon peel, pepper, salt, breadcrumbs, fresh butter, and an egg. Fill
the fish and sew it up; turn it round, and fasten the head with the
tail; then egg the fish over and breadcrumb it; after which bake or
roast it gently till done, and of a good brown colour. Serve it up with
a sauce over, made of cullis, fresh butter, cayenne, anchovie essence,
and lemon pickle.
_Bacquillio with Herbs._
LET the fish be well soaked; then boil them and pick free from bone.
Wash and chop small some spinach, sorrel, green onions, and parsley;
after which add fresh butter, essence of anchovies, cayenne pepper, and
plenty of the juice of seville oranges. Sweat the herbs down, add the
fish, and simmer them till tender.
_Entrée of Eels._
TAKE good-sized eels, bone and cut them in pieces of three inches long;
pass them over a slow fire in a small quantity of sweet herbs and
eshallots, fresh butter, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When three parts
done put all on a dish, dip each piece in the liquor, breadcrumb, and
broil them over a clear fire. Serve them up with anchovie sauce in a
boat.
_Entrée of Soles._
LET good-sized soles be cleaned and filletted; roll them up, put them
into a stewpan, add a little fresh butter, lemon juice, pepper, and
salt, and simmer them over a slow fire till done. Serve them up with a
sauce over, made of button onions, mushrooms, egg balls, pickle
cucumbers scooped round, slices of sweetbreads, and good strong cullis
coloured with lobster spawn.
N. B. The above fillets may be fried, and served up with the sauce
round.
_Entrée of Whitings, &c._
TAKE fillets of haddocks or whitings, wet them with whites of eggs, and
lay upon them slices of salmon, seasoned with pepper and salt. Put them
into a stewpan with a little fresh butter; stew the fish over a slow
fire till done, with the pan close covered. Serve them up with a sauce
over, made with chopped parsley, chopped mushrooms and eshallots, a
little rhenish wine, mustard, and cullis, mixed and boiled together for
ten minutes.
_Entrée of Salmon._
MAKE white paper cases, and put a little sweet oil at the bottom of
each. Cut into pieces some fresh salmon, pepper and salt them, and put
them into the cases; then set them over a fire on a baking plate and in
a stewpan covered over, with a fire at top and bottom. When broiled
enough, serve them up with poached eggs on the top of the salmon, and
anchovie sauce in a boat.
_Entrée of Smelts, &c._
CLEAN, turn round, and fry of a good colour, some fresh smelts; then
three parts boil a slice of fresh crimped cod cut two inches thick; pull
it into flakes, have ready some benshamelle, whisk it with the yolks of
two eggs, add the flakes of the cod, season with salt and lemon juice to
the palate, and simmer the fish over a slow stove till done. Serve it up
with the fried smelts round the dish, and a few over the stew.
_Entrée of Mackarel._
SPLIT them down the back, season with pepper and salt, and lay a sprig
of fennel in them. Broil them gently, and when served up, the fennel to
be taken out, and a mixture of fresh butter, chopped parsley, green
onions, pepper, salt, and plenty of lemon juice to be put in its stead.
_Mackarel the German way._
SPLIT them down the back and season with pepper and salt; broil them,
and serve them up with the following sauce in a boat:--pick and wash
fennel, parsley, mint, thyme, and green onions, a small quantity of
each. Boil them tender in a little veal broth; then chop and add to them
some fresh butter, the liquor, a grated nutmeg, the juice of half a
lemon, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Let it boil, and make it of a
proper thickness with flour and water.
_Olios, or a Spanish Dish._
THE articles that are wanted consist of the following: viz.
Leg of mutton of ten pounds.
Leg of veal ditto.
Chuck beef ditto.
Lean ham six pounds.
Best end of a neck of mutton.
Breast of veal, small.
Two pieces of bouillie beef of one pound each.
Two pair of pigs feet and ears.
A bologna sausage.
A fowl.
A pheasant.
Two partridges.
Two ruffs and rees.
Two quails.
Two teal.
Two pigeons.
Two rabbits.
One hare.
Two stags tongues.
One quart of burgonza peas.
Turnips.
Carrots.
Celery.
Onions.
Leeks.
Parsley.
Thyme.
Garlick.
Allspice.
Cloves.
Mace.
Nutmegs.
Black pepper.
Haricot roots.
Fried bread.
Eggs.
Saffron, and
Lemons.
_The Olio to be made as follows:_
TAKE the beef, veal, mutton, and ham; cut them into pieces, put them
into a pot, cover with water, and when it boils skim clean; then add
carrots, celery, turnips, onions, leeks, garlick, parsley, and thyme,
tied in a bunch; allspice, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, mace, and a
little ginger, put in a cloth. Boil all together till it becomes a
strong stock, and strain it. Then cut the breast of veal into tendrons,
and best end of neck of mutton into steaks, and half fry them; pigs feet
and ears cleaned; hare cut into joints and daubed with bacon; bouillie
beef tied round with packthread; poultry trussed very neat, with the
legs drawn in close; the tongues scalded and cleaned; and the rabbits
cut into pieces. When the different articles are ready, blanch and wash
them, then braise each in a separate stewpan, with the stock that was
strained. When the different things are braised enough, pour the liquors
from them into a pan, leaving a little with each to preserve from
burning. When they are to be served up, skim the liquor very clean, and
clear it with whites of eggs; then cut turnips and carrots into
haricots, some button onions peeled, and heads of celery trimmed neat;
after which blanch them, cut the bologna sausage into slices, boil the
burgonza peas till three parts done, then mix all together, add some of
the cleared liquor, and stew them gently till done. The remainder of the
liquor to be coloured with a little saffron, and served up in a tureen
with a few burgonza peas in it.
When the olio is to be served up, take a very large deep dish, make
several partitions in it with slips of fried bread dipped in whites of
eggs, and set it in a slow oven or before a fire; then lay the
tendrons, birds, beef, mutton, fowls, &c. alternately in the partitions,
and serve up with the haricot roots, &c. over.
N. B. The whole of the liquor to be seasoned to the palate with cayenne
pepper and lemon juice.
[This receipt for a Spanish olio is only written to shew how expensive a
dish may be made, and which I saw done. As a substitute I have
introduced the following english one, which has been generally approved;
and I think, with particular attention, it will exceed the former in
flavour.]
_Hodge Podge, or English Olio._