CHAPTER XVII.

EDUCATION--LAST NIGHT IN SAN ANTONIO--FAREWELL.

One of our number, visiting the public schools of San Antonio one day,

found the course of studies for boys of very respectable extension,--it

comprised all the usual elementary branches, including the History of

Spain, such a history of that country at least as is good for Cuban boys

to learn. For the education of girls, a single hour was reserved, and

into this were crowded the necessary reading and writing, a little

instruction in accounts, and the geography of the island. My friend

remonstrated against this unequal division of the spoils of time, but

those in authority insisted that it was according to the rights of

Nature, as follows.

_American._ Do you mean to say that boys should be taught five or six

hours a day, and girls only one?

_Schoolmaster._ Certainly.

_American._ Why do you make this difference?

_Schoolmaster._ Because women need so much less education than men.

_American._ Why is that?

_Schoolmaster._ They have less mind, in the first place, and then their

mode of life demands less cultivation of what they have.

_American._ What knowledge do you consider necessary for a woman? only

reading and writing, I suppose.

_Schoolmaster._ Yes, and a little arithmetic. They must fill up the rest

of their time with sewing, and household matters.

_American._ But supposing you were required to add something to this

small amount of instruction, what would it be?

_Schoolmaster_ (after some reflection). I scarcely know, unless indeed

_a slight coloring of Grammar_.

Our American, now excited, brings in view the good of the race. "Do you

not think," he says, "that by elevating the organism of the mothers, you

elevate the intellectual chances of the whole race? Stupid mothers will

have stupid sons,--the results of culture are inherited."

The master replies that that is not his business, but Don Juan, who

happens to be present, being appealed to, assents, and thinks it might

be as well if a mother could have an idea. So far, so good, but a

jealous-hearted woman to whom the conversation was reported smiled to

observe how both American and Cuban made woman subservient to the

interests of the race. "And if she should never be a mother," said this

one, "educate her for herself, that she may give good counsel, and

discern the noble and the beautiful. For women are good to inspire men,

as well as to bear them, and for their own sakes, they have a right to

know all that elevates and dignifies life." And this brings to mind

another brief conversation overheard in one of our voyages.

_Young Wife_ (holding up a number of the "Atlantic Monthly"). Ought

women to learn the alphabet, dear? what do you think?

_Young Husband._ Oh! certainly--don't they have to teach it?

But the time draws nigh for us to leave San Antonio. Our return passages

are engaged in the next Isabel. If this steamer prove such a Bird of

Gladness as the papers and her consignees say, then our once weary

voyage will become a veritable translation,--only three days of

sunshine, smoothness, and turtle-soup for luncheon, and you land in

Charleston in undisturbed equilibrium of manners and of dress. Well,

more of this anon.

But to-night is our last night in San Antonio. We have danced our last

_contra-danza_ with Dotor Hernandez, and had our last chat with Maria

Luisa and her mother. Juanito was there, that evening, and as we were

all in a musical mood, he played through whole piano-forte arrangements

of "Norma" and "Lucia," and we all screamed through the score, some six

notes too high for the voice, Papa and Mamma applauding us, and did

wonders in "Casta Diva" and "_Chi mi frena_." But this is all at an end,

and one of us stands alone at her open window, and looks for the last

time on the quiet scene,--just before her is the little pasture where

the goats pick up a scanty subsistence all day, and where shadows and

moonlight play such wild freaks at night. This morning, as she sat at

that window and worked, two men in haste carried a coffin past it. She

always sees coffins, and sometimes writes about them,--that one gives

tone to her thoughts to-night. For the house opposite is now dark and

still,--the parlor where Mariquilla embroiders her chemises, and Dolores

pulls lint for the sick is silent and deserted. The trees stand up there

in the moonlight, and the river runs among its shallows so near that one

hears its voice. And Hulita thinks: fifty years from this time--that

river will be running just as it is now, and those trees, or others like

them, will be standing at the angle of the picture as I now see them,

but where shall we, friends of to-day, be? Dead, or old enough to die.

Juanito will be a man in years, then, with white hairs, scarcely

remembering the American lady who praised his compositions in

church-music. The Dotor, Papa, and Mamma cannot be alive, Maria Luisa

will be a Grandmother, and if Hulita lives, her infirmities will make

death a welcome deliverance. So she envies that moon, the trees, the

river, who can all stay and be eternal. She saw the coffin to-day,--very

like she will see the whole no more. Good-night, dear moon, dear

shadows, dear unlearned, unsophisticated people,--I shall leave you

to-morrow, forget you never.

And the next day comes the bustle of departure, and packing of trunks,

for we are to take the afternoon train down to Havana. Doña Tomasita

sends a parting gift of fruit, as much as one man and one stout boy can

carry. The fruit is as follows: one bushel of golden, honeyed

oranges,--oh! the glory of all oranges are those of this island,--the

same quantity of _chaimitos_ and _mameys_, and a huge fagot of

sugar-cane. We hasten to share these good creatures with those

immediately at hand, having lauded Doña Tomasita to the skies and paid

her messengers. What could be carried away we took with us. Then came

the parting with Polonia, who wrung her hands as usual, and cried out:

"Know thou, girl, that I shall miss thee much." "And I thee, too, thou

dear old half-mad charcoal figure,--thou art human, though black, and

canst ache over the ironing-table as well as another. Let these few

reals console thee, as far as may be, for the loss of my sympathy. If we

ever get the Island, I will help thee to ease and good wages.

"But not so to thee, roguish Antonio. 'Art thou not free and perfidious?

We intrusted a sum of money to thine hand to pay the negro

baggage-carrier, and to slightly fee thyself, and we ascertain all too

late, by the complaints of the injured negro, that thou didst slightly

fee him, and pay thyself for services never rendered. Wherefore dread

our coming, or the Day of Justice, by whomsoever administered!'"----

We have taken affectionate leave of the family of the house opposite,

promising to write, with the remainder of our mortal lives as the vague

term of fulfilment. A trinket or two made the younger ones happy, while

the whole family solemnly united to bestow on me a little set of

vignettes of Cuba, folded fan-fashion, and purchasable for the sum of

five reals. Not without much explanation was it delivered to me,--this

was the Cock-fight, this the Bull-fight, this the Tacon theatre. I

received these instructions without any of that American asperity which

led a celebrated Chief Justice to say: "There are some things, Mr.

Counsel, which the Court is supposed to know," and gratefully departed.

We walked to the _dépôt_, in the hot afternoon sun, our smaller pieces

conveyed on a barrow, and the huge trunk resting, for fifty cents, on

the head of a stalwart negro.--_Mem._ A negro could carry the round

earth on his head, if he could only get it there. And here came the

discovery of Antonio's vileness,--he had had an eighth of an ounce,

wherewith to pay the carriers. According to the bargain, as rehearsed to

us, he was to pay them a dollar and three fourths, which would leave him

three reals for himself. He professed to have done this with so

ingenuous an air, that we were a little ashamed of so small a fee, and

added thereto the small remnant of our change. Only at the last moment,

when the train was puffing and smoking alongside, did the poor blacks

venture to say that one dollar was very little for carrying all those

trunks. Our hearts were stirred, but the train was there, the purse

empty, and Antonio out of sight. Wherefore, let him, as before said,

avoid our second coming.

But there never was a departure without an omission. Something you have

forgotten that you meant to take, or you have brought with you something

that should have been left. Wending your way from an English mansion of

splendid hospitality, a stray towel has found its way into your

portmanteau. Before you have discovered this, a confidential letter from

the housekeeper overtakes you informing you of the fact, and begging you

to return the missing article at once, which you do for six stamps, with

a slight tingle in the cheek. In the present instance we have taken

nought that was not ours, but we have left an article of domestic

dignity and importance.

Stranger, if you should ever sit at that tea-table in the hotel at San

Antonio, with the lamp smoking under your nose, and the three tasteless

dishes of preserves spread before your sight, a cup of astringent

nothingness being offered to you, and a choking stale roll forming the

complement of your evening service,--if there and thus you should see a

white teapot, with bands of blue, that looks as if it had seen better

days, oh then remember us! For we had scarcely settled ourselves in the

cars, when a pensive recollection came over us. It was too late to do

anything,--we only touched the shoulder of our friend, who was as usual

intent upon palms and scenery, and remarked, with a look of melancholy

intelligence, "The Teapot is left behind!"

A Trip to Cuba · 第 17 / 19 章