CHAPTER VII.

HAVANA--THE JESUIT COLLEGE.

The gentlemen of our party go one day to visit the Jesuit College in

Havana, yclept "_Universidad de Belen_." The ladies, weary of dry goods,

manifest some disposition to accompany them. This is at once frowned

down by the unfairer sex, and Can Grande, appealed to by the other side,

shakes his shoulders, and replies, "No, you are only miserable women,

and cannot be admitted into any Jesuit establishment whatever." And so

the male deputation departs with elation, and returns with airs of

superior opportunity, and is more insufferable than ever at dinner, and

thereafter.

They of the feminine faction, on the other hand, consult with more

direct authorities, and discover that the doors of Belen are in nowise

closed to them, and that everything within those doors is quite at

their disposition, saving and excepting the sleeping-apartments of the

Jesuit fathers,--to which, even in thought, they would on no account

draw near. And so they went and saw Belen, whereof one of them relates

as follows.

The building is spacious, inclosing a hollow square, and with numerous

galleries, like European cloisters, where the youth walk, study, and

play. We were shown up-stairs, into a pleasant reception-room, where two

priests soon waited on us. One of these, Padre Doyaguez, seemed to be

the decoy-duck of the establishment, and soon fastened upon one of our

party, whose Protestant tone of countenance had probably caught his

attention. Was she a Protestant? Oh, no!--not with that intelligent

physiognomy!--not with that talent! What was her name? Julia (pronounced

_H_ulia). Hulia was a Roman name, a Catholic name; he had never heard of

a Hulia who was a Protestant;--very strange, it seemed to him, that a

Hulia could hold to such unreasonable ideas. The other priest, Padre

Lluc, meanwhile followed with sweet, quiet eyes, whose silent looks had

more persuasion in them than all the innocent cajoleries of the elder

man. Padre Doyaguez was a man eminently qualified to deal with the sex

in general,--a coaxing voice, a pair of vivacious eyes whose cunning was

not unpleasing, tireless good-humor and perseverance, and a savor of

sincerity. Padre Lluc was the sort of man that one recalls in quiet

moments with a throb of sympathy,--the earnest eyes, the clear brow, the

sonorous voice. One thinks of him, and hopes that he is satisfied,--that

cruel longing and more cruel doubt shall never spring up in that

capacious heart, divorcing his affections and convictions from the

system to which his life is irrevocably wedded. No, keep still, Padre

Lluc! think ever as you think now, lest the faith that seems a fortress

should prove a prison, the mother a step-dame,--lest the high,

chivalrous spirit, incapable of a safe desertion, should immolate truth

or itself on the altar of consistency.

Between those two advocates of Catholicity, Hulia Protestante walks

slowly through the halls of the University. She sees first a Cabinet of

Natural History, including minerals, shells, fossils, and insects, all

well-arranged, and constituting a very respectable beginning. Padre Lluc

says some good words on the importance of scientific education. Padre

Doyaguez laughs at the ladies' hoops, which he calls Malakoffs, as they

crowd through the doorways and among the glass cases; he repeats

occasionally, "_Hulia Protestante?_" in a tone of mock astonishment, and

receives for answer, "_Si, Hulia Protestante_." Then comes a very

creditable array of scientific apparatus,--not of the order employed by

the judges of Galileo,--electric and galvanic batteries, an orrery, and

many things beside. The Library interests us more, with some luxurious

Classics, a superb Dante, and a prison-cage of forbidden works, of which

Padre Lluc certainly has the key. Among these were fine editions of

Rousseau and Voltaire, which appeared to be intended for use; and we

could imagine a solitary student, dark-eyed and pale, exploring their

depths at midnight with a stolen candle, and endeavoring, with

self-torment, to reconcile the intolerance of his doctrine with the

charities of his heart. We imagine such an one lost in the philosophy

and sentiment of the "Nouvelle Héloise," and suddenly summoned by the

convent-bell to the droning of the Mass, the mockery of Holy Water, the

fable of the Real Presence. Such contrasts might be strange and

dangerous. No, no, Padre Lluc! keep these unknown spells from your

heart,--let the forbidden books alone. Instead of the Confessions of

Jean Jacques, read the Confessions of St. Augustine,--read the new book,

in three volumes, on the Immaculate Conception, which you show me with

such ardor, telling me that Can Grande has spoken of it with respect.

Beyond the Fathers you must not get, for you have vowed to be a child

all your life. Those clear eyes of yours are never to look up into the

face of the Eternal Father; the show-box of the Church must content

them, with Mary and the saints seen through its dusty glass,--the august

figure of the Son, who sometimes reproved his Mother, crowded quite out

of sight behind the woman, whom it is so much easier to dress up and

exhibit. What is this other book which Parker has read? Padre Doyaguez

says, "Hulia, if you read this, you must become a Catholic." Padre Lluc

says, "If Parker has read this book, I cannot conceive that he is not a

Catholic." The quick Doyaguez then remarks, "Parker is going to Rome to

join the Romish Church." Padre Lluc rejoins, "They say so." Hulia

Protestante is inclined to cry out, "The day that Parker becomes a

Catholic, I too will become one"; but, remembering the rashness of vows

and the fallibility of men, she does not adopt that form of expressing

_Never_. Parker might, if it pleased God, become a Catholic, and then

the world would have two Popes instead of one.

We leave at last the disputed ground of the Library and ascend to the

Observatory, which commands a fine view of the city, and a good sweep of

the heavens for the telescope, in which Padre Lluc seemed especially to

delight. The Observatory is commodious, and is chiefly directed by an

attenuated young priest, with a keen eye and hectic cheek; another is

occupied in working out mathematical tables;--for these Fathers observe

the stars, and are in scientific correspondence with Astronomers in

Europe. This circumstance gave us real pleasure on their account,--for

science, in all its degrees, is a positive good, and a mental tonic of

the first importance. Earnestly did we, in thought, commend it to those

wearied minds which have undergone the dialectic dislocations, the

denaturalizations of truth and of thought, which enable rational men to

become first Catholics, and then Jesuits. For let there be no illusions

about strength of mind and so on,--this is effected by means of a vast

machinery. As, in the old story, the calves were put in at one end of

the cylinder and taken out leather breeches at the other, or as glass is

cut and wood carved, so does the raw human material, put into the

machine of the Catholic Church, become fashioned according to the will

of those who guide it. Hulia Protestante! you have a free step and a

clear head; but once go into the machine, and you will come out carved

and embossed according to the old traditional pattern,--you as well as

another. Where the material is hard, they put on more power,--where it

is soft, more care; wherefore I caution you here, as I would in a mill

at Lowell or Lawrence,--Don't meddle with the shafts,--don't go too near

the wheel,--in short, keep clear of the machinery. And Hulia does so;

for, at the last attack of Padre Doyaguez, she suddenly turns upon him

and says, "Sir, you are a Doctrinary and a Propagandist." And the good

Father suffers her to depart in peace. But first there is the chapel to

be seen, with its tawdry and poor ornamentation,--and the dormitories of

the scholars, with long double rows of beds and mosquito-nettings. There

are two of these, and each of them has at one end a raised platform,

with curtains and a bed, where rests and watches the shepherd of the

little sheep. Lastly, we have a view of the whole flock, assembled in

their play-ground, and one of them, looking up, sees his mother, who has

kindly accompanied our visit to the institution. Across the distance

that separates us, we see his blue eyes brighten, and, as soon as

permission is given, he bounds like a young roe to her arms, shy and

tender, his English blood showing through his Spanish skin,--for he is a

child of mixed race. We are all pleased and touched, and Padre Lluc

presently brings us a daguerreotype, and says, "It is my mother." To us

it is an indifferent portrait of an elderly Spanish woman,--but to him,

how much! With kindest mutual regard we take leave,--a little surprised,

perhaps, to see that Jesuit priests have mothers, and remember them.

A Trip to Cuba · 第 7 / 19 章