Frankfort on the Maine.
You will be surprised at our remaining so long at a place where there
is no court, and few of those entertainments which allure and retain
travellers. The truth is, the D—— of H—— seems fond of this place; and
as for my own part, I have formed an acquaintance with some very worthy
people here, whose friendship I shall take every occasion to cultivate.
Society here is divided into Noblesse and the Bourgeois. The first
consists of some noble families from various parts of Germany, who have
chosen Frankfort for their residence, and a few original citizens of
Frankfort, but who have now obtained the rank of nobility. The citizens
who connect themselves with strangers, have made their fortunes by
commerce, which some of them still follow.
There is a public assembly for the nobility once a week, at which they
drink tea, converse, or play at cards from six to ten. On the other
nights, the same company meet alternately at each other’s houses, and
pass the evening in the same manner. None of the Bourgeois families are
invited to these parties; but they have assemblies of the same kind among
themselves, and often entertain their friends, and the strangers with
whom they are acquainted, in a very hospitable manner at their tables.
The noblemen who reside in Frankfort, and the nobility of all degrees,
and of every nation, who accidentally pass through it, cheerfully accept
of these invitations to dine with the citizens, but none of the German
ladies of quality condescend so far. While their fathers, husbands, and
brothers, are entertained at a Bourgeois table, they chuse rather to
dine at home by themselves; and they certainly judge wisely, if they
prefer a spare diet to good cheer.
The distinction of ranks is observed in Germany, with all the scrupulous
precision that a matter of that importance deserves. There is a public
concert in this place supported by subscription. One would imagine that
the subscribers would take their seats as they entered the room, that
those who came earliest would have their choice.—No such matter.—The
two first rows are kept for the ladies of quality, and the wives and
daughters of the citizens must be contented to sit behind, let them come
at what hour, and pay what money they please.—After all, this is not so
bad as in an assembly of nobility, where commons are not permitted to
sit, even in the lobby, whatever price they may have paid for their seat
in parliament.
Since we arrived, the theatre has been opened for the winter, by a troop
of German comedians. I was there the first night; previous to the play,
there was a kind of allegorical prologue, intended as a compliment to
the magistrates of Frankfort. This was performed by Justice, Wisdom,
and Plenty, each of whom appeared in person, with the usual attributes.
The last was very properly personated by a large fat woman, big with
child. As to the two former, I hope, for the sake of the good people of
Frankfort, that they are better represented in the town-council, than
they were on the stage. This prologue was concluded by a long harangue
pronounced by the plumpest Apollo, I dare venture to say, that ever
appeared in the heavens above, or on the earth beneath.
After this the play began, which was a German translation of the English
play of George Barnwell, with considerable alterations. Barnwell is
represented as an imprudent young man; but he does not murder his uncle,
as in the English play, or commit any gross crime; the German translator
therefore, instead of hanging, only marries him at the end of the piece.
Most of the plays represented on the German stage, are translations
from the English or French; for Germany, so fertile in writers in
divinity, jurisprudence, medicine, chymistry, and other parts of natural
philosophy, has produced few poets till of late.
Jam nova progenies cœlo demittitur alto,
and the German muse is now admired all over Europe. Her beauties are felt
and applauded by men of genius, even through the medium of a translation,
which is a strong proof of her original energy. It must, however, be a
great discouragement to German poetry in general, and to the dramatic in
particular, that the French language prevails in all the courts, and
that French plays are represented there in preference to German.
The native language of the country is treated like a vulgar and
provincial dialect, while the French is cultivated as the only proper
language for people of fashion.—Children of the first families are
instructed in French, before they acquire their mother-tongue, and pains
are taken to keep them ignorant of this, that it may not hurt their
pronunciation of the other. I have met with people who considered it as
an accomplishment to be unable to express themselves in the language
of their country, and who have pretended to be more ignorant, in this
particular, than they were in reality.
I have been assured by many, who understand the German language well,
that it is nervous, copious, most expressive, and capable of all the
graces of poetry. The truth of this appears by the works of several late
writers, who have endeavoured to check this unnatural prejudice in their
countrymen, and to restore the language of their ancestors to its native
honours.—But what are the efforts of good sense, taste, and genius, in
opposition to fashion, and the influence of courts?
Among the winter amusements of this place, traineau parties may be
reckoned. These can take place in the time of frost only, and when there
is a considerable quantity of snow upon the ground. I had an opportunity
of seeing a very splendid entertainment of this kind lately, which was
given by some young gentlemen to an equal number of ladies.
A traineau is a machine in the shape of a horse, lion, swan; or in that
of a griffin, unicorn, or some other fanciful form, without wheels; but
made below like a sledge, for the conveniency of sliding over the snow.
Some are gilded, and otherwise ornamented, according to the whim of the
proprietor.—A pole stands up from one side, to which an ensign or flag is
fastened, which waves over the heads of those placed on the machine. The
lady, wrapped in fur, sits before, and the gentleman stands behind on a
board made for that purpose.
The whole is drawn by two horses, which are either conducted by
a postillion, or driven by the gentleman.—The horses are gaudily
ornamented, and have bells hanging from the trappings which cover them.
This party consisted of about thirty traineaus, each attended by two or
three servants on horseback with flambeaux; for this amusement was taken
when it began to grow dark.—One traineau took the lead;—the rest followed
at a convenient distance in a line, and drove for two or three hours
through the principal streets and squares of Frankfort.—The horses go at
a brisk trot or canter; the motion of the traineau is easy and agreeable;
the bells, ensigns, and torches, make a very gay and showy appearance,
which seemed to be much relished by the parties immediately concerned,
and admired by the spectators.
A few days after this exhibition, as we were preparing to set out for
Hanau in a traineau, Mr. S——, brother to Lord S——, arrived at the inn.
Though he had travelled for two days and nights, without having been in
bed, he was so little fatigued, that he went along with us. Hanau is
some leagues distant from Frankfort. We had a full proof of the smooth
movement of the traineau, which, in the time of frost, and when there is
a proper quantity of snow on the ground, is certainly the most delightful
way of travelling that can possibly be imagined.
Hanau is the residence of the Hereditary Prince of Hesse Cassel. As we
entered the town we met the Princess, who is sister-in-law to the King of
Denmark. She, with some of the ladies of the court, was taking the air
also in a traineau.
Besides the troops of Hanau, two regiments of Hanoverians are there at
present. The Hereditary Prince is not on the best terms with his father.
He lives here, however, in a state of independency, possessed of the
revenues of this country, which is guaranteed to him by the Kings of
Britain, Denmark, and Prussia: but there is no intercourse between this
little court and that of Hesse Cassel.
After dinner we returned to Frankfort. The D—— prevailed with Mr. S——
to remain a longer time at Frankfort than he had intended. He is a
sensible young man of spirit and ambition. His grandfather, the old
Earl of D——, endeavours to seduce him into holy orders, promising him
a living of 2000l. a year, which is in the gift of the family. This
you will acknowledge to be a temptation which few younger brothers
could withstand. Nature, however, seems to have destined this young
gentleman for another line in life. My own opinion is, he would rather
have the command of a troop of dragoons, than be promoted to the See of
Canterbury.