Strasbourg.
Nothing can form a finer contrast with the mountains of Switzerland
than the plains of Alsace. From Basil to Strasbourg, is a continued,
well cultivated plain, as flat almost as a bowling-green. We saw great
quantities of tobacco hanging at the peasants doors, as we came along,
this herb being plentifully cultivated in these fields.
We have passed some days very agreeably in this town. One can scarcely
be at a loss for good company and amusement, in a place where there is
a numerous French garrison. Marechal Contades resides here at present,
as commander of the troops, and governor of the province. He lives in a
magnificent manner. The English who happen to pass this way, as well as
the officers of the garrison, have great reason to praise his hospitality
and politeness.
After dining at his house, with several English gentlemen, he invited
the company to his box at the playhouse. Voltaire’s Enfant Prodigue was
acted; and for the Petite Pièce, le François à Londres. Our nation is a
little bantered, as you know, in the last. The eyes of the spectators
were frequently turned towards the Marechal’s box, to observe how we
bore the raillery. We clapped heartily, and showed the most perfect
good-humour. There was indeed no reason to do otherwise. The satire is
genteel, and not too severe; and reparation is made for the liberties
taken; for in the same piece, all manner of justice is done to the real
good qualities belonging to the English national character.
An old French officer, who was in the next box to us, seemed uneasy,
and hurt at the peals of laughter which burst from the audience at
some particular passages: he touched my shoulder, and assured me that
no nation was more respected in France than the English;—adding, ‘Hanc
veniam damus, petimusque vicissim.’
It were to be wished that French characters, when brought on the English
stage, had been always treated with as little severity, and with equal
justice; and not so often sacrificed to the illiberal and absurd
prejudices of the vulgar.
I have seen the greater number of the regiments perform their exercise
separately, and there has been one general field-day since I came
hither. The French troops are infinitely better clothed, and in all
respects better appointed than they were during the last war. For this
reformation, I am told they are obliged to the Duc de Choiseul, who,
though now in disgrace, still retains many friends in the army.
There are, besides the French, two German regiments in this garrison.
These admit of the discipline of the cane upon every slight occasion,
which is never permitted among the French troops. Notwithstanding their
being so plentifully provided with those severe flappers to rouse their
attention, I could not perceive that the German regiments went through
their exercise with more precision or alertness than the French; and any
difference would, in my opinion, be dearly purchased at the price of
treating one soldier like a spaniel.
Perhaps what improves the hardy and phlegmatic German, would have a
contrary effect on the more delicate and lively Frenchman; as the same
severity which is requisite to train a pointer, would render a greyhound
good for nothing.
After all, I question very much whether this shocking custom is
absolutely necessary in the armies of any nation; for, let our martinets
say what they please, there is surely some difference between men and
dogs.
With respect to the French, I am convinced that great severity would
break their spirit, and impair that fire and impetuosity in attack, for
which they have been distinguished, and which makes French troops more
formidable than any other quality they possess.
I must own I was highly pleased with the easy, familiar air, and
appearance of good will, with which the French officers in general speak
to the common soldiers.—This, I am told, does not diminish the respect
and obedience which soldiers owe to their superiors, or that degree
of subordination which military discipline exacts. On the contrary,
it is asserted, that to these properties, which the French possess in
common with other soldiers, they join a kind of grateful attachment and
affection.
In some services, the behaviour of the officers to the private soldiers
is so morose, severe, and unrelenting, that a man might be led to believe
that one of their principal enjoyments was to render the lives of the
common men as miserable as possible.
If a certain degree of gentleness does no harm in the great articles
of obedience and subordination, it is surely worth while to pay some
attention to the feelings of so large a proportion of mankind, as are
by modern policy necessitated to follow a military life. To put _their_
happiness entirely out of the question, in the government of the armies
of which they form infinitely the major part, is rather hard treatment of
creatures who are of the same species, employed in the same cause, and
exposed to the same dangers with their officers.
When I began this, I intended to have told you a few things about
Strasbourg, instead of which I have been led out of my way by French and
German soldiers.—Digressing is a trick to which I am very subject, and
rather than not be indulged in it, I would throw away my pen altogether.
The D—— of H—— arrived here exactly at the time he proposed.