Geneva.
The mildness of the climate, the sublime beauties of the country, and
the agreeable manners of the inhabitants, are not, in my opinion, the
greatest attractions of this place.
Upon the same hill, in the neighbourhood of Geneva, three English
families at present reside, whose society would render any country
agreeable.
The house of Mr. N—— is a temple of hospitality, good humour, and
friendship.
Near to him lives your acquaintance Mr. U——. He perfectly answers your
description, lively, sensible, and obliging; and, I imagine, happier
than ever you saw him, having since that time drawn a great prize in the
matrimonial lottery.
Their nearest neighbours are the family of Mr. L——. This gentleman,
his lady and children, form one of the most pleasing pictures of
domestic felicity I ever beheld. He himself is a man of refined taste, a
benevolent mind, and elegant manners.
These three families, who live in the greatest cordiality with the
citizens of Geneva, their own countrymen, and one another, render the
hill of Cologny the most delightful place perhaps at this moment in the
world.
The English gentlemen, who reside in the town, often resort hither, and
mix with parties of the best company of Geneva.
I am told, that our young countrymen never were on so friendly and
sociable a footing with the citizens of this republic as at present,
owing in a great degree to the conciliatory manners of these three
families, and to the great popularity of an English nobleman, who has
lived with his lady and son in this state for several years.
I formerly mentioned, that all who live in town, must return from their
visits in the country at sun-set, otherwise they are certain of being
shut out;—the Genevois being wonderfully jealous of the external, as well
as the internal enemies of their independency. This jealousy has been
transmitted from one generation to another, ever since the attempt made
by the Duke of Savoy, in the year 1602, to seize upon the town.
He marched an army, in the middle of a dark night, in the time of peace,
to the gates, applied scaling ladders to the ramparts and walls, and
having surprised the centinels, several hundreds of the Savoyard soldiers
had actually got into the town, and the rest were following, when they
were at length discovered by a woman, who gave the alarm.
The Genevois started from their sleep, seized the readiest arms they
could find, attacked the assailants with spirit and energy, killed
numbers in the street, drove others out of the gate, or tumbled them over
the ramparts, and the few who were taken prisoners, they beheaded next
morning, without further process or ceremony.
The Genevois annually distinguish the day on which this memorable exploit
was performed, as a day of public thanksgiving and rejoicing.
It is called le jour de l’Escalade. There is divine worship in all the
churches.—The clergymen, on this occasion, after sermon, recapitulate all
the circumstances of this interesting event; put the audience in mind of
the gratitude they owe to Divine Providence, and to the valour of their
ancestors, which saved them in so remarkable a manner from civil and
religious bondage; enumerate the peculiar blessings which they enjoy; and
exhort them, in the most pathetic strain, to watch over their liberties,
remain steady in their religion, and transmit these, and all their other
advantages, unimpaired to their posterity.
The evening of the jour de l’Escalade is spent in visiting, feasting,
dancing, and all kinds of diversions; for the Genevois seldom venture
on great festivity, till they have previously performed their religious
duties—In this, observing the maxim of the Psalmist,—to join trembling
with their mirth.
The State keeps in pay a garrison of six hundred mercenaries, who mount
guard and do duty every day. But they do not trust the safety of the
republic to these alone. All citizens of Geneva are soldiers. They are
exercised several hours, daily, for two months, every summer; during
which time they wear their uniforms, and at the end of that period are
reviewed by the Syndics.
As they receive no pay, and as the officers are their fellow-citizens,
it cannot be imagined that these troops will perform the manual exercise
and military evolutions, with the exactness of soldiers who have no other
occupation, and who are under all the rigour of military discipline.
Nevertheless they make a very respectable figure in the eyes even of
disinterested spectators; who are, however, but few in number, the
greater part consisting of their own parents, wives and children. So,
I dare swear, there are no troops in the world, who, at a review, are
beheld with more approbation than those of Geneva.
Even a stranger of a moderate share of sensibility, who recollects
the connection between the troops and the beholders, who observes the
anxiety, the tenderness, the exultation, and various movements of the
heart, which appear in the countenances of the spectators, will find it
difficult to remain unconcerned:—But sympathising with all around him, he
will naturally yield to the pleasing emotions, and at length behold the
militia of Geneva with the eyes of a citizen of the republic.
Geneva, like all free states, is exposed to party-rage, and the public
harmony is frequently interrupted by political squabbles. Without
entering into a detail of the particular disputes which agitate them at
present, I shall tell you in general, that one part of the citizens are
accused of a design of throwing all the power into the hands of a few
families, and of establishing a complete aristocracy. The other opposes
every measure which is supposed to have that tendency, and by their
adversaries are accused of seditious designs.
It is difficult for strangers who reside here any considerable time, to
observe a strict neutrality. The English in particular are exceedingly
disposed to take part with one side or other; and as the government has
not hitherto attempted to bribe them, they generally attach themselves to
the opposition.
Walking one afternoon with a young nobleman, who, to a strong taste for
natural philosophy, unites the most passionate zeal for civil liberty,
we passed near the garden, in which one of those circles which support
the pretensions of the magistracy assemble. I proposed joining them. No,
said my Lord, with indignation; I will not go for a moment into such a
society: I consider these men as the enemies of their country, and that
place as a focus for consuming freedom.
Among the citizens themselves, political altercations are carried on
with great fire and spirit. A very worthy old gentleman, in whose house
I have been often entertained with great hospitality, declaiming warmly
against certain measures of the council, asserted, that all those who
had promoted them deserved death; and if it depended on him, they
should all be hanged, without loss of time. His brother, who was in
that predicament, interrupted him, and said, with a tone of voice which
seemed to beg for mercy, Good God! brother! surely you would not push
your resentment so far: you would not actually hang them? Oui assurément,
replied the patriot, with a determined countenance, et vous, mon très
cher frère, vous seriez le premier pendu pour montrer mon impartialité.