the east, like its Florida namesake, is a lazy, sluggish stream. Its
headsprings are in the crest of the Blue Ridge, all the way from the
high Pinnacle and Hebron range to Sugarloaf and Bearwallow. The
immediate basin of the stream from a short distance below Flat Rock, to
its mouth, bears a unique character, being the only marsh in Western
North Carolina. Its width varies from one fourth to two miles, and its
length may be estimated at ten miles. A rank growth of vegetation is
annually submerged. A soil of vegetable mold several feet in depth has
been formed. Recent surveys show that the decline is sufficient to admit
of perfect drainage, which would make this one of the most valuable
agricultural and grazing tracts in the country.
The crest of the Blue Ridge, in Henderson county, is an undulating
plateau, which will not be recognized by the traveler in crossing. The
Saluda mountains, beyond Green river, are the boundary line of vision on
the south. The general surface features of the central part of this
pearl of counties will be best seen by a glance at the pictorial view
from Dun Cragin, near Hendersonville.
Above the mouth of Ochlawaha the bottoms of French Broad gradually
widen. The foot hills being the fartherest distance apart above the
mouth of Little river, Boylston creek, Cathey’s creek, Davidson’s river,
Little river and both forks of French Broad all have tempting valleys.
It should be remarked that a large percentage of the land in these fair
and fertile bottoms has been badly worn by much poor farming, but very
little is worn out, so that there is yet not only hope but certainty of
redemption by proper management. The expense of reinvigorating exhausted
tracts is materially lightened by the presence of limestone outcrops.
As a grazing district the upper French Broad has advantages over any
other section of equal extent, though there are elsewhere small
localities which surpass any portion of it. These advantages are, extent
of level tillable land for hay and grain, altitude which insures low
temperature and healthfulness, and third, proximity to the best wild
range in the Balsams and Blue Ridge. The scientific agriculturist will
be able to draw conclusions from the following recapitulations of
conditions: abundance of rain, perfect drainage, warm sun, cool breezes,
and an alluvial soil with occasional outcrops of lime rock.
All the good grains produce well. Vegetables grow to a large size.
Experiments in the culture of tobacco have been successful in the main,
and the industry may become an important one. The population is more
intelligent than in most rural districts. The one great thing needed is
adequate and cheap transportation facilities. One railroad taps this
territory at Hendersonville, but more are needed. There remain large
tracts of unimproved lands which might be reduced to a state of
cultivation. What is locally known as the Pink Beds, in the northwestern
part of Transylvania, a dense forest plateau, is an absolute wilderness
in which a lost traveler might wander for days before finding his way to
a settlement. Among the spurs of the Balsam range and Blue Ridge, and in
the valley of Green river there are many thousand acres of forest.
The Pigeon river in North Carolina is exclusively the property of
Haywood county. Its water sheds are, on the west the main chain of the
Balsam range, and on the south and east the Balsams and New-found
mountains. The political division follows almost exactly this line. The
principal tributaries of the Pigeon, each draining fine valleys, are, on
the west Cataluche, Jonathan’s creek and Richland creek; on the east
Fines creek. The main channel is divided by Cold mountain into two
prongs. The valley of Pigeon throughout its whole length is wide and
undulating, except where it cuts its way through the Smoky mountains
into Tennessee. Below the junction of Richland creek the soil is a
mixture of sand and gravel. Farther up it partakes more of a clayey
character. The fertility of the mountains is evidenced by the great size
and variety of the forest growth. The ranges being high, the coves are
long, and give to the distant view from the valley a peculiarly pleasing
effect. Good crops of corn, wheat, oats, buckwheat, etc., can be raised
almost to the crest of the highest mountains. The Balsams furnish more
wild range than any other chain. Haywood has for many years had the
reputation of being the best wheat county in the transmontane portion of
the state, and with proper cultivation has the capacity to sustain that
reputation. The culture of tobacco in the northern and lower portion
has been entirely successful, and will soon become an important element
of industry.
Across the Balsam range into Jackson and Swain counties we recognize
newer settlements. This fact partially accounts for sparcer population
and less extensive tracts under cultivation. But a better reason is
found in the more broken condition of the country and consequent
narrowness of the valleys. Of the fertility of the mountains in Jackson
there can be no doubt, for the trees are larger and of finer texture
than of any other locality. Swain county differs from Jackson in having
more river bottom land, a sandier soil, and a warmer climate. About
one-third of its territory is a wilderness, unpenetrated except by
hunters and herders. We refer to the great Smoky mountain chain and its
southward spurs. The valley of the Tuckasege is not wide but embraces
many valuable farms. There is nothing like a continuous stretch of
bottom along its affluents. The Little Tennessee is bordered at places
by wide and fertile alluvions. Swain county has the conditions of soil
and climate requisite to the production of the very best quality of gold
leaf tobacco. Having mild winters, the fertile slopes of the Cowee and
Smoky ranges might be reduced to valuable pastures.
The valley of the Tennessee and its branches placed Macon first of the
counties west of the Balsam range in population and wealth. With the
assistance of its valuable mineral deposits, it will probably be able to
maintain its position. Above Franklin wide bottoms stretch from both
sides of the Little Tennessee, exposing several thousand acres of level
surface, with a soil of gravel and vegetable loam, washed from the
neighboring slopes and higher altitudes of Northern Georgia. The ascent
of the Cullasaja to the crest of the Blue Ridge is very gradual until an
undulating plateau of several miles length and varying width is reached.
On this plateau is the village and settlement of Highlands. If you
reach it from Franklin, and doubt that you are on the top of a mountain
range 3,700 feet high, express yourself to any resident and in fifteen
minutes he will have you looking over a precipice of 1,100 feet, while
far below you in the blue distance waves the upper plain of South
Carolina. The climate of the Macon highlands is cool and bracing. The
showers, which are at all seasons numerous, are, however, warm, the
clouds coming from the heated low lands farther south. Wheat and oats
produce well, and corn yields a fair harvest. But the most promising
hope of this section, agriculturally speaking, lies in dairying and
stock raising. Land is cheap, and both indigenous and cultivated grasses
grow luxuriantly.
At Franklin the traveler will certainly hear of the Ellijay, whose
valley is a competing candidate for admiration, with the princely peaks
which hide it in their evening shadows. There are some substantial
improvements in the valley of Burningtown creek. The best wild range, in
Macon county, is in the Nantihala mountains. I was shown a five-year-old
horse which was born in the mountains, and had “never received a
mouthful of grain or cured roughness.” Many farmers leave their cattle
out to range all winter. Sheep raising would be profitable, if carried
on extensively enough to afford the employment of a shepherd. It must
not be inferred, from what has been repeatedly said pf wild range,
grazing, and stock-raising, that the mountain slopes, which comprise
two-thirds of the surface of the intermontane country, are covered with
a sod of indigenous grasses. They are rather marked by the absence of
grasses, as all deep-shaded forests are. It is on the treeless tops that
cattle subsist and fatten, the tufts under the trees being only
occasional, except where a fallen tree or cliff has made an opening for
heat and light to enter. There are among the trees, however, abundance
of herbs and shrubs upon which sheep and goats would subsist.
Of Clay, Graham, and Cherokee counties, little need be said. All the
trans-Balsam counties bear a general family likeness. The valley of the
Cheowah, near Robbinsville, is the most attractive part of Graham. The
valley of Hiawassee, with its tributaries, Nottelley and Valley river,
belongs to the sixth natural division of Western North Carolina. There
is, in both Cherokee and Clay counties, a large percentage of level
land. Speculators have invested largely in the former, mainly on account
of the iron and marble deposits which lie exposed.
Taken altogether, the best results, agriculturally, are to be obtained
from the cultivation of the grasses, vegetables, and tobacco. The
cereals can never be produced with profit beyond the narrow limit of
home demand.
The subject of horticulture is, in North Carolina, an important one.
Vegetables, grains, and grasses, of the same variety, flourish in a wide
range of territory, but fruits are tender darlings of climate. In regard
to temperature, the heart of the Alleghanies is a peninsula of the
northern north temperate zone projecting into the southern. While this
fact has been known, and its advantages appreciated for more than half a
century, there has been inexplicable tardiness in utilizing it. How much
longer will the great South continue to buy, in the markets of the
North, what can be produced more cheaply and of better quality in her
own highland valleys? The piedmont region is adapted to a great variety
of semi-temperate fruits. The persimmon, grape, plum, and thorned
berries, are found, wild, abundantly everywhere. We know of no instance
in which the cultivated varieties of these fruits have failed, when
properly planted and attended. The peaches raised in the shade of the
Blue Ridge are of unexcelled flavor. They will stand comparison with the
best Delaware productions. Apples and pears may be classed among the
piedmont fruits, but the former are of better flavor on the higher
altitudes. Grapes grow large and mature thoroughly in the cool dry month
of September. The vines seem large and healthy.
It is only in the lower valleys that peaches of good size and flavor can
be raised. The plumb, that most difficult of all fruits to protect from
destruction by insects, grows on the slopes to full ripeness. Experiment
with cultivated grapes has been limited, but the luxuriance and variety
of the wild vines, indicate a soil and climate favorable to this
industry. The nativity of the Catawba is traced to this highland region,
and is still found, side by side with the fox and blue wine grape. There
is nothing more beautiful in rural scenery, than these luxuriant vines,
winding and entwining among the branches of a spreading tree, until they
have completely smothered it in their tendril grasp.
The apple finds a congenial home among these southern mountains. In
flavor, and perfection of development, this fruit will compare with the
choicest production of Michigan. The trees grow large and healthy; there
are fewer, than in most sections, of those destructive insects which
burrow the wood and sting the fruit. The winters are never cold enough
to freeze the buds, and frost need not be looked for after the
blossoming season, making the crop much more reliable than at the North.
Abundance of moisture gives the fruit full size, and the autumns being
cool and long, the ripening process is slow and natural. The whole
mountain country is adapted to apple orchards. At present, the upper
French Broad valley--Henderson and Transylvania--excel all other
sections, both in quality and quantity. Tons of apples are annually
wasted, which, if carried to the market at reasonable cost of
transportation, would furnish no inconsiderable revenue.
Horticulturists are just beginning to appreciate the advantages of the
thermal or “no frost” zone. It was Silas McDowell, of Macon county, who
first called attention to the existence of certain belts along the
southern slope of the Blue Ridge and projecting spurs, wherein the fall
of frost was unknown, and the season more than a fortnight earlier in
spring, and later in fall than the adjacent slope on either side. So
marked is the effect that a green band, in early spring, seems to be
stretched across the side of the mountain. The line on both sides is
clearly defined, and does not vary more than a few feet from year to
year. The scientific bearings of this singular phenomenon are
intelligently discussed by Mr. McDowell, in a paper published in the
Smithsonian Reports in 1856. An explanation for the existence of such a
belt is derived from a theoretical knowledge of the directions and
commingling of air currents, determined by the conformation of the
slope.
Sections of this frostless zone are found on almost every spur of the
main chain of the Blue Ridge from Catawba county to Georgia, the largest
area in any unbroken tract being on the side of Tryon mountain in Polk
county. Its economic value for fruit and vegetable culture is
inestimable. Like conditions of climate exist nowhere on the continent.
The season is as long as in Southern Georgia and South Carolina, while,
on the other hand, the thermometer never ranges higher than in New York,
Ohio or Michigan. These conditions, for grapes, pears, peaches and
apples, are perfect. The climatic conditions with respect to moisture
are favorable, and in some respects superior to famous fruit growing
districts.
The forest growth of Western North Carolina is a subject in which there
is at present a wide and growing interest. Of the territory west of the
river Catawba, more than three-fourths is yet covered with the original
forest. Almost every variety of hard wood, indigenous to the eastern
part of the United States, is found on the piedmont plain, or on the
mountain slopes. Within a day’s journey for an ox-team grow the
steel-like persimmon, the inelastic hemlock, and the impervious balsam
fir. The trees in most localities are so thick as to form an
impenetrable shade. Their size and quality depend mainly upon fertility
and altitude. While there are poplars six feet in diameter, at the
stump, and sixty feet to the first limb, cherries four feet stumpage,
and walnuts eight, these are the exceptions, and the ones that become
celebrated. The thousands upon which the operating lumberman must rely
for his returns, are of profitable size, but not giants, as the
uninitiated might infer from advertising circulars or occasional notices
in the local newspapers.
Yellow pine is found in the piedmont region in considerable size and
quantity. The quality is inferior to the best southern pines, but it
serves very well for most domestic purposes. White pine of superior
grade and large trees are found in many of the mountain valleys, but its
growth can not be said to be general. The regions likely to become
available, are in Madison county, Haywood and Swain. The largest white
pines in the state are in the latter county on the banks of Larkie
creek.
Oaks, of almost every variety, abound everywhere. It is the boast of the
state that nineteen of the twenty species of oak are found within her
territory; at least fourteen are found west of the Catawba river. The
common white oak, which is the most valuable, grows in every valley and
cove lower than 4,000 feet, and, in solidity and tenacity, is far
superior to the growth of lower altitudes. The same is true of ash and
hickory, which abound everywhere. The white hickory of the piedmont
plains is being already purchased, and manufactured into spokes and
handles. The white ash of the mountain valleys has a fine grain and firm
texture. The best growth may be looked for in the dark coves. North
Carolina hickory commands a ready market, large quantities being
consumed by the export trade. The factory at Greensboro draws a large
percentage of its supplies from the western section.
Black walnut, here, as elsewhere, was the first wood hunted out by
speculators. But few trees remain within available reach of
transportation east of the Blue Ridge, and those in the western counties
which are yet standing, have been sold to speculators. More than twenty
million feet of walnut timber have changed ownership since 1880. As fast
as the railroad creeps through the valley toward its western terminus,
these princes of the forest are being reduced to lumber and shipped to
northeastern markets. In quality, southern mountain walnut takes high
rank; in size, it compares with the trees of the flat-lands of the
north. A tree was cut in Haywood county recently which measured over
eight feet across the stump, and forty-seven to the first limb. Four
feet stumpage is not an extraordinary size.
The predominant growth of the mountains, both in the piedmont and
trans-Blue Ridge sections, is chestnut. On some ridges it is almost the
exclusive growth, but occurs, in diminished numbers, though increased
size, in the dark coves. The great trees are of no value, except for
rails, fire-wood, and charcoal; the young and vigorous are of greater
value as a cabinet wood, and for house finishing. Tons of nuts fall to
the ground annually. The mountain farmer, in fact, relies upon the
chestnut as a staple food for his hogs. In addition to its uses, the
chestnut tree is a factor in giving character to the landscape. Its
creamy bloom blends beautifully with the mellow pink of the kalmia, and
brilliant scarlet of the rhododendron.
Next to the chestnut in the glory of its bloom, comes the locust. This
tree, as a scattered growth, may be found almost everywhere. It grows
tall and symmetrical, and ranges in diameter from six inches to two
feet. Locust is a valuable commercial wood. It is little effected by
dampness or earth, and is consequently used for fence posts, and in
ship-building extensively. It is also used in the manufacture of heavy
wagons, for hubs.
Poplars in the Southern Alleghanies attain great size and in symmetry of
form excel all other trees. The use of its lumber are almost as varied
as oak, and being somewhat scarcer, it commands a higher price in the
market. It is found on almost every slope and in every valley. The
poplar blossom contains more sugar than the bloom of any other forest
tree. The bee keeper among the Alleghanies can always rely on well
filled honey combs.
Black birch is a wood just beginning to receive the attention of
manufacturers, and the day is not far distant when it will take a high
place among cabinet woods. The rapid consumption of walnut is warning
far-seeing lumbermen to cast about for a substitute. Black gum and black
birch seem to be the most available candidates. There are several
varieties of birch, but none equals the product of the Southern
Alleghanies in beauty of grain or richness of color. It is mainly a cove
growth, and attains to workable size. Black gum is found, but only as
isolated trees.
Cherry, which of American woods for ornamental purposes, is second only
to walnut, is found in some sections of the mountain regions in great
abundance. The Smoky range, together with its projecting spurs from the
Virginia line south, is noted for the size of its cherry forests. The
vicinity of Roan mountain and the headwaters of the Ocona Lufta excel
all other sections. The high coves of the Balsam range also contain
large and valuable trees.
Maple, linn, sycamore, cucumber, mulberry, sassafras, dogwood, sourwood,
gopher, and buckeye is a partial list of the remaining deciduous trees.
Above all, enveloping the summits of the highest ranges in impenetrable
shade, silent and somber, stand forests of balsam fir. The general
character of these dense, dark thickets is described elsewhere. The wood
itself remains briefly to be spoken of. The fir of the North Carolina
Alleghanies differs from the species in the far north, both in the size
of the tree and in the smoothness and density of the wood. It may be
looked for in the three localities, each, however, embracing a large
area of territory--the culmination of the Balsams at the corners of
Haywood, Transylvania and Jackson; on the great Smoky chain, and within
the ellipse of the Blacks. The “female tree,” which is cone shaped and
has limbs to the grounds, is worthless except for the resin of the
blister drawn out by puncturing the bark at a certain season of the
year, and used as the base of medicinal preparation. The “male tree”
grows to a diameter of two feet, and has a straight, clear trunk to the
length of thirty to sixty feet. The wood is straight, fine grained,
firm, and unelastic. It is highly charged with acetic sap, which makes
the green lumber very heavy. When dried it becomes light--lighter than
white pine. In color it is as white as the paper on which this is
printed, and the density and firmness of the grain makes it susceptible
of high polish. The same structure renders it impervious to water. The
writer was shown a churn made of balsam staves which had been in use for
thirty years. The wood under the surface was not even stained. This wood
has received no attention from wood manufacturers, but it may some time
be valuable for ship-building, buckets, and for house-finishing. For the
latter purpose it will rival in color and surface the world-famed satin
wood of California.
The arborescent kalmia and rhododendron, which grow along almost every
mountain stream, have a practical use. The ivy and laurel, as they are
locally called, attain, in some of the fertile coves, a diameter of
three inches, and the roots are even larger. Their graceful crooks and
turns and bulbous, burly roots, make them exceptionally fine timber for
all kinds of rustic devices--fences, flower urns, chairs, etc. The wood
can be worked only when green; dried, it becomes as hard as bone. Its
density, hardness, and mottled grain, make it a valuable wood for pipe
bowls and knobs, also for light tool handles and shuttles. No use is
made of these shrubs at present, except for rustic furniture.
At present, Hickory manufactures more lumber than any other town in the
state west of the Catawba. Highlands, on the Blue Ridge, probably
deserves the second place, though the industry is only in its infancy.
We have no hesitancy in saying that the forests in the western section
are intrinsically more valuable than in the middle belt of North
Carolina, or in any part of South Carolina. Five thousand square miles
of area are awaiting enterprising dealers and manufacturers in wood.
Capital, transportation inducements, and business capacity, aided by
mechanical skill, are needed--three requisites to the development of a
great industry, with which the region can be supplied only from abroad.
Thus far this sketch has been written mainly from personal observation.
We now come to a subject, however, in the treatment of which authorized
publications and the investigations of other individuals must be relied
upon. Our errors in what shall be said upon the subject of mineralogy
will be errors of omission. There has never been anything like a
systematic exploration of the Southern Alleghanies. This statement will
surprise no one familiar with the country, for such a task would involve
years of expensive labor, an investment which the state legislature has
never shown an enthusiastic willingness to make. We might quote a page
of axioms applicable to this subject. “What is worth doing, is worth
doing well,” “The most economy is sometimes the greatest folly.” But we
forbear the repetition of platitudes. The state publications tell us,
with well-founded pride, that North Carolina was the first government in
America to order a geological survey. Can she, on that account, afford
to be the last state to publish a full exposition of her geological
structure and mineral resources? Private enterprise, however, is
annually adding to the stock of information, and gradually the general
character of mineral deposits is becoming known. We were told by many a
hostess during our rambles that she “had kep’ a powerful site of them
rock-hunters.” The mineral excitement was highest from 1872 to 1875. Mr.
King, in a paper published in Scribner’s Monthly, descriptive of a trip
through the mountains in 1874, says: