1842
_Nice, January 1, 1842._--Yesterday I made a very beautiful excursion
with my son-in-law. We drove to the foot of a crag on which a convent
for men is built. The church is pretty, especially by reason of a
projecting portico from which there is a beautiful view of the sea
including Nice, the Fort of Saint Elmo, and of the chief points of the
landscape in a delightful setting. We walked up to the convent which
is called Saint Pons: the religious order there established is
comparatively new, and is called _gli oblati della santissima
Virgine_; young ordained priests from the time when they are allowed
to say Mass, and until they can perform the holy office of confession,
or in other words receive the cure of souls, spend a year here in
preparation. This institution seems to me to be peculiar to Nice, and
in my opinion is a very wise idea.
_Nice, January 2, 1842._--Yesterday evening I went with the
Castellanes to the official reception given by the Governor of
Nice.[48] It is customary here that on New Year's Day every native who
has been presented at Court and all foreigners should attend this
reception, the men in uniform and the women in full dress. The idea is
that in this way one congratulates the King and Queen of Sardinia. The
ceremony somewhat resembles a London Drawing-room, or one of the great
diplomatic routs at Paris. There were some curious figures, but on the
whole the society was unexceptionable and the crowd suffocating. Some
games were made up in the last reception-room where it was not so
hot, and refreshments went round, while flowers, which are never
wanting here, were to be seen everywhere in profusion, and the light
was brilliant. The whole scene looked very well. I went round the
rooms twice, once on my son-in-law's arm and the second time with the
Duke of Devonshire, who pays me much attention. The Grand Duchess was
covered with diamonds but not with beauty, for she had no head-dress,
which made her look old. The Princesse Marie also looks better when
she is not so over-dressed.
[48] Comte de Maistre.
_Nice, January 3, 1842._--The churches here are most displeasing. It
is very difficult to sit down and one is surrounded by dirty and
unpleasant people who spit and are verminous. The architecture is also
spoilt by wretched rags of gilt and silken material, worn out and
torn, which make the most unpleasant effect. The singing of the
penitents, who are here organised as brotherhoods, is by no means
melodious. Apart from what I saw of the Jesuit college, nothing in the
way of religion edifies me here. In the streets you are attacked by
the most hideous beggars; all the staircases are crowded with them and
are so filthy that one's skirts are only fit to throw away when one
gets home.
_Nice, January 4, 1842._--It is grey damp weather, and one might think
oneself at Brighton; it has lasted now for three days and makes one
think one is being swindled. When the weather was bright there was
always the possibility of catching some inflammation of the chest,
because the bitter wind counteracts the heat of the sun and therefore
becomes the more dangerous. When the sun goes down the wind certainly
falls, and then we are confronted by the great grey expanse of the sea
which looks like a shroud prepared for our burial. We might still be
at Paris or London.
I hear from Paris that the condemnation of Dupoty will probably be
attacked by an appeal to the Chamber of Deputies upon grounds of
illegality.[49] However, the nomination of M. Sauzet to the Presidency
by a great majority is a good omen for the Ministry. It is not yet
known what will be the consequence of Salvandy's return from Madrid;
he declined to hand the letters accrediting him as ambassador to
Espartero; the Ambassadors at Paris consider that he was quite right,
and quote as a precedent a similar case under Louis XIV.
[49] Dupoty, an ardent republican, had vigorously opposed the
July Government in certain newspapers under his management. When
Quesnel made his attempt upon the life of the Duc d'Aumale in
1841, Dupoty was prosecuted and brought before the Chamber of
Peers on a charge of moral complicity. He was condemned to five
years imprisonment, and did not recover his liberty until the
amnesty of 1844.
_Nice, January 4, 1842._--I hear from Paris that the second trial
before the Chamber of Peers will not be protracted or complicated. The
revelations made by the accused, who have been condemned to death
though they will not be executed, have made it possible to arrest some
sixty individuals, all from the same class; only four or five of them
will be brought up for sentence, who are somewhat above the working
class and are most deeply compromised. It is said that the most
important result of this second trial will be to show the ties
existing between the Communists, the party of equality and the reform
party, to which M. Arago and others belong, and of which M. Dupoty was
the secretary.
The question of etiquette which hindered Salvandy in Spain is largely
occupying men's minds. M. Guizot said that he sent precise
instructions to Salvandy to return if Espartero persisted in his
refusal to allow him to present his letters to the little Queen. His
return was expected. It is somewhat derogatory to France that her
Ambassador should be allowed to depart because he claims a natural
right. When Cellamare and some other ambassador came to Paris, they
handed their letters of credit to Louis XV. who was then six years of
age and not to the Duc d'Orléans who was acting as Regent. This has
been constantly repeated but produces no effect at Madrid.
_Nice, January 6, 1842._--Yesterday it snowed for several hours in
succession, at Nice, of all places. An icy wind was blowing which
froze us though we were sitting close round the stove in which I am
burning an enormous quantity of fir-cones and sticks of olive wood
which are sold here by the pound, and though my extravagance in this
respect is ruinous I cannot get warm.
_Nice, January 7, 1842._--Yesterday it snowed nearly all day and the
snow remained so long upon the ground that on the terrace which
divides my house from the sea, and which is a public walk, all the
street boys of Nice gathered and made large snowballs which they
hurled with savage and animal yells at every passer by. I watched this
strange spectacle from my windows as I did not go out all day.
My huge room reduces me to despair for two reasons; in the first place
because it cannot possibly be heated and in the second because it has
brought down upon me a demand for an evening reception, issued by the
Grand Duchess. I gave in, though with some regret, for it is always
more or less of an inconvenience and I am extremely lazy. I have
therefore handed over the room to Princesse Marie, to Fanny and to
Pauline: I have ordered my son-in-law to make all the necessary
arrangements and have declared that I will have nothing to do with it
except pay the bills and receive the visitors. It is well for youth to
be at work. The Grand Duchess wishes to get up a quadrille and is
stirring Nice to its foundations for that purpose. The reception is to
take place on Monday next, the 10th. There are a hundred and fifty
people on my list: it will be called a tea with dancing; the quadrille
will be given by twelve ladies representing the months of the year and
four children representing the seasons; these details may not be quite
accurate as I am not interfering in the business. The Grand Duchess
and Pauline, who is more vigorous now than I have seen her for a long
time, together with Comte Eugène de Césole, settle all these matters
at the house of the Grand Duchess; I shall only abandon my room upon
the morning of the day.
_Nice, January 11, 1842._--My reception took place yesterday. It was
not exactly a ball but a tea with a little music, after which there
were several figure dances, a mazurka and two waltzes. It was all over
by one o'clock.
When Count Pahlen left Paris, our embassy at St. Petersburg received
orders not to appear at Court on St. Nicholas' Day and the ambassadors
pleaded illness as an excuse. M. de Kisseleff and all the Russians
were then ordered not to appear at the Tuileries on New Year's Day. On
this subject Barante writes as follows: "I had been expecting for some
time that the strange idea of showing some personal feeling, apart
from Cabinet policy, would oblige the Emperor to form a definite
resolution. I think, however, that at present he will try to make his
action as little resolute as possible. Probably the return of Count
Pahlen will be indefinitely delayed."
Apart from this our Ministry has a majority and seems well content.
_Nice, January 13, 1842._--I hear from Paris that M. de Salvandy has
been ordered to return with all his attachés; his embassy will have
been of very short duration. Thus we are on as bad terms with the
extreme south of Europe as with the extreme north. Every one is agreed
in saying that Espartero's demands were inadmissible and that he was
urged to them by England.
_Nice, January 16, 1842._--At St. Petersburg invitations have been
withdrawn which had been sent to Casimir-Perier[50] for several
parties, while the boxes at the theatre to the right and left of his
own have been vacated by orders of the authority. What will be the end
of all this?
[50] Then French Chargé d'Affaires at St. Petersburg.
_Nice, January 17, 1842._--Yesterday I spent the latter half of the
morning with the wife of the governor, the Comtesse de Maistre, who
was at home with her family. Her sister-in-law[51] who is unmarried,
is a clever person. M. de Maistre is an excellent talker and Madame de
Maistre seems a most pleasant woman; I have spent the most enjoyable
visits here, as regards conversation, that Nice can offer.
[51] Afterwards Madame de Terray; she was born in 1787.
_Nice, January 19, 1842._--Yesterday was a charming day and I went for
a walk for two hours with my son-in-law, strolling by the sea,
watching the poor galley slaves at work in the harbour; observing the
effects of the sunlight on the sea and the brilliant reflections upon
the mountains, the upper parts of which were covered with snow;
watching also the ships with their lateen sails, and from time to time
exchanging a few words with acquaintances who were attracted by this
charming day to follow our example.
Madame de la Redorte writes from Paris that an unparalleled ovation
has been given by the Carlist party to the Russian Chargé d'Affaires,
M. de Kisseleff, after the outburst of personal feeling: he was
triumphantly received at their club without any suggestion on his
part. However, he has been invited to the great hall at the Tuileries
and I presume he will appear there. She also says that the intimacy
between M. Guizot and Madame de Lieven has become of such a character
as to arouse public feeling, and that reference will probably be made
to it in the Chamber of Deputies. The newspapers apparently take no
notice of the matter.
_Nice, January 20, 1842._--I spent yesterday morning in preparing the
decorations for a quadrille which has been entrusted to my care. After
dinner I dressed the hair of my four ladies; their entrance to the
ball with their four gentlemen was most successful; Pauline and Fanny
in blue and black, Madame de Césole and an Italian lady in rose and
black, all four covered with diamonds and wearing the Spanish mantilla
very gracefully. M. de Césole and Frederick Leveson, the son of Lord
Granville, were the blue knights, while Lord Aston and a young Russian
were the knights in rose colour. It was a pretty ball, excellently
lighted, with a large number of tasteful and fashionable costumes, but
I thought our quadrille was the prettiest of all. Madame de Césole and
Pauline were the queens of the entertainment. Madame de Césole has a
very Spanish face, and though worn by the cares of six children in
immediate succession, she is still very pretty with the help of a
little adornment; she is a very nice and pleasant person. Pauline
looks quite beautiful: she is, moreover, very fashionable, much sought
after, and takes the lead, more or less, everywhere. She seems to
please every one, even the most serious, and her success makes her the
more beautiful.
_Nice, January 21, 1842._--I have a letter from the Duc de Noailles
announcing the marriage of his daughter to their cousin Maurice. He
then devoted four pages to eulogising the talent of Mlle. Rachel and
told me that he is advising her to play Célimène, and that the chief
advice he has given is to be deeply in love, as the whole secret of
the part consists in that.
Yesterday the weather was very fine and I took advantage of it to
ascend with my son-in-law, on foot, an imposing mountain which
separates old from new Nice; a winding path has been made by which the
ascent is comparatively easy. From the summit the view over the sea at
certain times discloses not only the island of Sainte Marguerite, but
also Corsica; to right and left the old and new town are spread out as
in a panorama, while at the back one sees a circle of hills which shut
in Nice from the north; these hills are covered with villas, churches
and convents and stand out against a background of fine rocks which
are over-topped by snow-covered peaks. The variety and extent of the
view make this walk interesting. On the top of the mountain upon a
wide expanse are to be found the remains of an old ruined fort.
_Nice, January 24, 1842._--Yesterday after dinner I went to the Grand
Duchess Stephanie, to hear a new play by Scribe read; it is making
some stir in Paris and is called _The Chain_. It was read to us by M.
de Maistre, who is a good reader. The play is in five acts; the
dialogue is witty, the plot well developed and the stage management
perfect, in short it is distinctly interesting, but to me the
triviality of style characteristic of the author was obvious and an
excessive complication of incident spoils the rapidity of the action
and fatigues the spectator for the moment. On the stage it should go
very well.
Barante writes: "Our little quarrel with Russia seems to be composed;
pinpricks have been answered by pinpricks. The Emperor is pleased to
let the matter drop and perhaps will behave more carefully in future.
It is said that Count Pahlen may be back in six weeks. The fears of
all the Russians here that they may be recalled from their dear Paris
are quite amusing.
"M. de Salvandy is to arrive to-day, after an extraordinary experience
as ambassador. The result would have been the same with any one else,
but I am assured that his language, his attitude and his despatches
have been something unheard-of in the annals of diplomacy. I am sorry,
for he is an upright and excellent man of talent and sound judgment."
So much for Barante. I have also a letter from Salvandy himself dated
January 16 and written from Tours on his way back to Paris: "For six
weeks I have lived in the midst of constant annoyance and
apprehension, and continual work, with more despatches than any
energetic and permanent embassy ever produced, has filled my days and
my nights. I have encountered difficulties which I pointed out and in
the face of which I received the strongest reassurances, but hateful
intrigues rendered them insurmountable. For sixteen days no written
message reached me and even ordinary couriers have been stopped. I
protracted negotiations as long as possible, and cut them short when I
was bound either to flee or to be driven away. Now what is to be done?
One point I will guarantee, that France can do what she wishes in
Spain; Spain has offered me full satisfaction for the insolence
suggested to her authorities. At Bayonne I found an excellent note
from Lord Aberdeen, hoping that English influence was not to be found
in this matter and pronouncing in favour of the principles supported
by France. At Paris I shall learn what will be the result of the
business."
_Nice, January 26, 1842._--The Duchesse d'Albuféra writes telling me
that M. de Salvandy has returned to Paris and says that a large number
of ridiculous observations are attributed to him; for instance, he is
said to have written from Tolosa, "The French Embassy is touching the
Pyrenees and to-morrow will pass the Bidassoa." At every stage he sent
his attachés one after the other, riding headlong to Paris to announce
his progress. He has left the young son of M. Decazes at Madrid as
Chargé d'Affaires. The unanimous assent of the Cortes to Espartero's
demands further complicates the question.
The new _Stabat_ by Rossini is now the rage at Paris; it is said to be
superb but by no means religious, and I hear that secular words would
suit the composition quite as well. In any case it is enough to show
that this fine musical genius is not dead, as might have been feared
in view of his long silence. Grisi is said to be admirable in the
solos of this _Stabat_; her head has been turned by the singer Mario;
her husband wishes to separate from her but she declines for some
reason unknown, while the refusal obliges her at this moment, for some
reason unknown to me, to pay her husband eight hundred thousand
francs, which by no means pleases the lady. She expressed her grief to
Lablache who advised her, with his inimitable Italian accent, to have
the separation rather than to pay and said, "But what does it matter
to you? Everybody knows that you are a bad lot!" In view of so
excellent a quotation, I make no further comment.
_Nice, January 28, 1842._--Yesterday I called upon Princesse Marie who
is confined to the house by indisposition. She told me of several
royal marriages: that of Princess Marie of Prussia, the king's cousin,
with the Crown Prince of Bavaria; this is a mixed marriage, but all
the children will be brought up as Catholics. One of the young
princesses of Bavaria is to marry the Hereditary Archduke of Modena;
the Crown Prince of Sardinia will marry one of the daughters of the
Archduke, who is Viceroy of Milan; while the Princess of Nassau, the
half-sister of the reigning duke, is to marry the Prince of Neuwied. I
wish that some husband could be found for poor Marie herself. I think
this would be the best remedy for her mother's terrible attacks of
nerves.
Madame de Lieven writes as follows: "Salvandy has been wanting in
tact, Aston in goodwill, and the Spanish Government in common sense;
for all this is obviously against its interests. Attempts have been
made to point this out through other powers. Recent events at Madrid
regarding the point of etiquette remove all possibility that
Espartero's regency will be of long duration. The English Cabinet has
espoused the cause of France, but somewhat late, for Salvandy had then
gone, while Aston had previously supported the claims of Espartero.
However, English opinion has been noted and will have full weight.
"I need say nothing further concerning the so-called indisposition of
Périer and Kisseleff, as it has come to an end. My brother tells me
that our Ambassador will shortly return here.
"The King of Prussia has actually gone to England.[52] Imagine that
when he reached Ostend the English ships had not arrived. In general,
people think that the King of Prussia has been more than obliging;
certainly no great Sovereign ever did as much. Lord Melbourne will be
present at the baptism, the Palmerstons have been invited for another
day, and Lady Jersey I should think not at all. She has not seen the
Queen since her husband was chief equerry. I do not know why King
Leopold is not to be present at the baptism. It is strange."
[52] King Frederick William went to England for the baptism of
the Prince of Wales, to whom he stood godfather.
_Nice, February 2, 1842._--This is a day which used always to be kept
as a festival in our house; M. de Talleyrand was born on February 2,
1754; he would now be eighty-eight years of age, and has been dead
nearly four years. As one advances in life these painful anniversaries
which mark progress with bitter memories become more frequent.
Yesterday I paid a visit to France with the Grand Duchess and a fairly
numerous company, that is to say, we crossed the Var and went to the
castle of Villeneuve which belongs to M. de Panis, a Provençal
gentleman of considerable wealth and importance. I had met him before
at the house of one of his cousins. He spends his winters at this
residence near the Var: he has restored it and if he had not daubed
the old walls and the great towers with yellow paint, it would be as
remarkable for its architecture as it is for its position and the
view.
_Nice, February 7, 1842._--Yesterday in consequence of a headache I
missed one of the chief amusements of Italy, the battle of confetti,
which takes place on the Sunday before Ash Wednesday. Everybody was
upon the promenade throwing handfuls, and I met people in the evening
who had thrown so energetically that they could not raise their arms.
This festival is a great delight to all the street boys who yell so
loudly that I could hear them in my bed. A little French warship is in
the harbour here: the crew disembarked and came on to the promenade
and the sailors in holiday attire danced a special dance of their own.
It was said to be very pretty. My son-in-law has invited the officers
of the brig to be present at an entertainment given at his house this
evening.
There is a strange custom in force here during the carnival: in the
morning all the streets are full of masks and gaiety reaches the
height of insanity, but at nightfall the masks disappear and every
member of a confraternity assumes the dress of a penitent; men and
women alike with candles in their hands follow processions which
emerge at the same moment from every church, to the sound of bells;
the priest bearing the holy sacrament under a canopy concludes the
procession. Wherever these processions go they produce a strange
effect: there are penitents in grey, white, black and red and every
one in the streets falls upon their knees; the penitents sing and wave
their candles and the general spectacle is rather gloomy than
edifying. When these processions are over the masked balls begin. The
processions are intended to expiate or counterbalance the excesses of
the carnival.
_Nice, February 8, 1842 (Shrove Tuesday)._--Yesterday morning was
spent in preparing Pauline's costumes. The Grand Duchess lent her some
diamonds and these with her own and mine looked very well. She was
very pretty and gave an excellent reproduction of the difficult part
of the Duchesse de Chevreuse in _A Duel under Richelieu_, which is a
high-flown melodrama: this was followed by a duo-bouffe sung by two
Italians and then came a little piece, _The Heirs_, in which my
son-in-law took the part of Alain most creditably. The whole company
acted very well, the room was pretty and all the accessories perfect.
The actors came to supper at my house and the Grand Duchess surprised
me by appearing. She insisted that my health should be drunk, as the
entertainment was given for my birthday which was on the 6th of
February but was put off to avoid falling upon a Sunday. The party did
not break up until two o'clock in the morning; it was somewhat tiring
but they all showed such kindness to me that I could not but be duly
grateful and have an agreeable recollection of it.
_Nice, February 9, 1842 (Ash Wednesday)._--Yesterday I was able to
take part in all the carnival absurdities in progress. First there was
lunch with dancing at the house of a great Russian lady, which is
situated in one of the finest gardens in Nice. We then went to Corso
where the battle of confetti had already begun. I was with the Grand
Duchess, Princesse Marie and Fanny: after driving round we halted upon
a reserved terrace from which we were able to throw our handfuls upon
the passers by; they replied from below and the most fashionable threw
little bunches of violets or roses instead of confetti or sweets.
Sweets are thrown with a kind of spoon with which they can be sent a
long way; the women wear masks of iron wire, for if these sweets are
thrown vigorously they can hurt when they strike the bare flesh. What
is remarkable but real, is the kind of fury which comes over the
coolest, and people lose their heads sooner or later. Pauline was more
excited than any one in the Corso. I was told that the late Emperor of
Austria, Francis II., who was certainly anything but a lively
character, happened to be at Rome in carnival time and took part in
the contest like a madman. Members of fashionable society show the
greatest vigour; the common people only think of picking up the
sweets. The military band was playing at the end of the promenade, the
weather was superb and we stayed out of doors until nightfall without
feeling cold. At half-past eight there was a ball given by some other
foreigners, which was by far the prettiest, the best arranged and the
most cheerful of all that have been given here.
The Grand Duchess has told me a piece of news which vexes her:
Princess Alexandrina of Baden is to marry the Hereditary Prince of
Coburg; it is hard for her to see possible husbands passing her
daughter by, seeing that Princesse Marie is far pleasanter, more
distinguished and richer than her cousin. The Grand Duchess is anxious
to know what will become of her daughter after her, especially in view
of the death of the Queen Dowager of Bavaria. She is also uneasy
concerning the Wasa family, whose affairs are terribly involved.
_Nice, February 10, 1842._--The weather yesterday was incomparable and
the month of May is not more beautiful at Paris, so after hearing the
office of the Ashes and lunching, we took advantage of the weather.
The Castellanes in their little carriage drawn by two Corsican ponies,
Fanny, Count Schulenburg, my brother-in-law, who had come from Milan
to pay me a short visit, and myself, went to Villefranche, a
picturesque little seaport; the road thither was not very easy, but
the view was admirable. A Sardinian warship was leaving the harbour
and from the top of the fort which serves as a state prison, we saw
her setting sail and making the necessary manœuvres to catch the
breeze before she left the harbour and entered the open sea. The slow
and measured movements of the fine ship gliding over a sea of marble
and diamonds, with the white sails shining in the southern sun, formed
one of the most beautiful sights conceivable and one which strikes the
mind even more than the eyes.
_Nice, February 17, 1842._--Yesterday I received the following letter
from poor Salvandy; "Since my return I have been overcome with a
constant sense of deep depression, disgust and weariness; an attack of
gout has come rather as a help than as an additional burden, as it has
excused me from going out or seeing people; only for the last few days
have I been in communication with the salons. I should need volumes to
tell you all that has astonished or saddened me upon my return. My
action has received entire approval, except as concerns my long delay
before leaving Madrid; whereas society accuses me of acting with
undue precipitation. In the comparatively narrow circle where I
thought I had my friends, I have encountered most unwelcome
malevolence. I find that my period of delay by which I hoped to
facilitate the adoption of a policy, if any were possible, has been
used to poison public feeling against me; society ladies can repeat
numberless quotations from my despatches, naturally imaginary or
distorted; ladies, moreover, whom I thought would be most likely to
take my part, as they are those who are in closest touch with the
chief officials of the department. However, as I have been obliged to
send all my despatches to the great Courts, marks of flattering
approval have been returned. Saint-Aulaire writes to say that they are
imperishable memorials of public right, and Bresson sends me a similar
message from the Prussian Court.
"The Ministerial position here seems to me very precarious. You will
see the amount of our majority yesterday; only eight votes upon the
question of incompatibility. I am inclined to think that we may do
better upon the electoral question, but MM. de Lamartine, Passy, Dupin
and Dufaure will speak against the Ministry; supposing that we are
successful in spite of this effort, a shock remains which we shall
probably not survive. What will happen then? A Cabinet without Thiers
or Guizot is difficult to form and even more difficult to maintain in
office, and if the one was not possible the other will not be yet; but
I am entirely outside this movement. On the day of my arrival when I
had an attack of gout, I hastened to pay my respects to the King, the
Prince Royal, Queen Christina and M. Guizot, being convinced that I
should not be able to do so the next day, and in fact I have been
confined for several days to my armchair."
Madame de Lieven writes to-day as follows: "The King of Prussia has
won golden opinions at London; he pleased the Court, the town, the
clergy, the journalists and the people. Even that which we from a
distance are inclined to think too sentimental has been successful in
England; I mean his acts of worship with Mrs. Fry,[53] &c. He is said
to be seriously meditating a union of the Anglican and Lutheran
churches, and it is thought that something will come of his journey to
England from this point of view. I do not think that the idea will
please his subjects and at Paris it is received with much opposition."
[53] Mrs. Fry was a Quakeress, well known at London for her
charity. The King of Prussia had been anxious to see her, and in
the course of this visit she asked him to give his subjects the
fullest liberty of conscience.
"The entertainment given to the King by the Duke of Sutherland was
fairy-like; he is said to have been greatly struck by it. Some sign of
boredom with Court life on his part is thought to have been perceived.
The Queen's evening receptions do not amuse him nor is he interested
by her conversation, or by her handsome husband playing chess like an
automaton.
"Sainte-Aulaire pleases the English as much as ever and his wife will
soon start to rejoin him. Barante is awaiting the return of Pahlen.
Some people think that he will not return, but we shall see.
"The carnival was magnificent and the ball given by the Duc d'Orléans
more magnificent than any ball under the Empire or the Restoration.
People are now occupied with domestic matters; the Ministry combats
all reforms and the reformers are fairly strong.
"Lehon will not return here as ambassador. The Cowleys open their
house next week."
It is true that the King of Prussia's journey to London caused much
displeasure at Berlin. It was thought that a great Sovereign was going
to too much trouble and expense and showing too much courtesy to a
Queen so distantly related. National pride and avarice were wounded.
The presents brought by the King were magnificent and his fortnight's
tour during which he was the Queen's guest in England, is said to
have cost him a million crowns, which is an enormous sum for
poverty-stricken Prussia. Moreover the religious reunion to which
Madame de Lieven refers is exactly what Prussia does not want; the
late King, who was greatly honoured, nearly brought confusion upon
his country by interfering too constantly with religious practices and
dogma, and the seeds of ill-temper still remain in the country to the
inconvenience of the Government. If these should be restored to life,
men's minds and, what is worse, their consciences will be in a ferment
and an additional cause of discord will be introduced into a country
where religious feeling is already very sensitive.
_Nice, February 21, 1842._--Yesterday I went to the convent of Saint
Barthélemy. It is customary here to go every Sunday during Lent to
hear vespers in one of the many convents by which Nice is surrounded.
The whole population goes out, eats and drinks in front of the
churches, where toys and flowers are sold. Music and dancing are
forbidden during Lent, and popular pleasures are therefore reduced to
eating. The crowds of people, the carriages, the donkeys, and the
riding horses of strangers make the scene animated and pretty.
_Nice, February 23, 1842._--I have just heard of the death of poor
Pozzo di Borgo. It was best for him and for his family that his life
should end, as he merely vegetated. He leaves an income of four
hundred thousand francs; half to his nephew Charles, the husband of
Mlle. de Crillon, with his residence in Paris and his villa at Saint
Cloud, and the remainder to his relatives in Corsica.
_Nice, February 25, 1842._--Yesterday there was a heartrending scene
in front of my windows; a terrible storm arose which has not even
to-day sunk to rest; the unfortunate ships were struggling with the
fury of the waves the whole day, and we sat for a long time watching
their fate. Fortunately none were lost.
In spite of the terrible weather I went out to take my offering to a
collection which was being made for the Sisters of Saint Vincent de
Paul, at the hospice which they conduct. There I saw Mlle. de Maistre,
the eldest daughter of the Governor, who is twenty-one years of age
and is spending her novitiate as a Sister of Charity in the hospice.
She has a definite call to the work, and seems happy; she is said to
be clever and well educated, as all the family are; she has a
pleasant face, intelligent and calm.
M. Pasquier, I am told, is being complimented on his nomination to the
French Academy. M. Molé will introduce M. de Tocqueville, and M. de
Barante will do the same for M. Ballanche; I do not know who will
introduce M. Pasquier. M. de Tocqueville is taking the place of M. de
Cessac, formerly director of the Ministry of War under the Empire, and
not a promising subject for a eulogy; indeed, it will be difficult for
any one to treat it, and especially so for M. de Tocqueville, who does
not belong to that time either in point of age or mental habits. He
mentioned his difficulty to M. Thiers, who told him that he might
perhaps be able to help him and would give him some interesting
information, as he possesses letters from the Emperor to M. de Cessac
which he would send him. M. de Tocqueville, in fact, received the next
day, in an envelope, a letter from Napoleon to M. de Cessac, which
began as follows: "My dear Cessac, you are a fool." M. de Tocqueville
himself related this amusing incident to his cousin, the Marquis
d'Espeuil, who is here. M. d'Espeuil married Mlle. de Chateaubriand, a
near relation of M. de Tocqueville.
_Nice, February 27, 1842._--I have a letter from M. de Barante who
seems less certain concerning the return of Count Pahlen to Paris;
probably the return will be indefinitely delayed until some incident
settles the matter one way or the other. Meanwhile Périer is at St.
Petersburg and his official position is quite correct, but society
continues to regard him as an outcast, wishing to show that its sense
of patriotism and self-respect has been wounded.
Barante gives me better news of the domestic situation. The majority
of forty-one seems to be really important, as the opposition, which
combined every shade of opinion, had set all their hopes upon this
discussion. The Minister himself hardly expected so large a majority.
The speeches of M. Dufaure and M. de Lamartine were received by the
Centres with the strongest censure; every word which seemed to
conform to the doctrines of the Left aroused opposition; in short,
there is a certain reaction in favour of order and conservatism. We
have now to see if it will have any influence upon the elections. If
this hope were realised, France would be in a better position than for
the last ten years. Such at least is the idea of Barante, though he is
rather optimistic.
He also tells me that M. de Chateaubriand, whom he met at Madame
Récamier's house at the Abbaye-au-Bois, has grown surly, taciturn and
displeased with everybody and everything. Madame Récamier has a
difficult task, as her business is to soothe the touchiness of wounded
pride and to provide a series of the successes for which alone M. de
Chateaubriand cares to live. I could never feel the smallest sympathy
for this barren and vain character.
_Nice, March 3, 1842._--This evening we are to celebrate Mid-Lent by
an entertainment from which I would gladly be excused, not that I
anticipate any bad results, but because I think pleasure of this kind,
if it is not to result in a fiasco, demands more time and trouble than
it is worth. Moreover the Castellanes have given me the task of
sending out the invitations, and my fingers are worn out with writing
addresses: further, I myself and none other have to make the four
costumes of Pauline and those of Charles de Talleyrand: then they want
me to coach them in their parts; I am to receive the company; I have
also to play in a wretched little scene in the second piece, which is
trifling, but I have to learn my part and repeat it, and finally I
have to provide supper for the actors. This is too much. However, I
have spent my life in being tyrannised over by somebody, and to give
way is, I think, a part that I have least forgotten in my past life,
and I have sometimes obeyed more reluctantly than now.
_Nice, March 4, 1842._--I feel somewhat stupid this morning:
yesterday's performance was too long, and the supper which followed it
prolonged the evening still further. I think people were amused. The
prettiest part of the entertainment was the prologue composed by my
son-in-law. It was a clever criticism of the previous performance, in
which a handsome young boy satirised the different actors and
suggested a young débutante to take the place of the prima donna, who
was supposed to be suddenly indisposed: then two boys dressed as
lacqueys of the last century brought in a little sedan chair, gilded
and surmounted by a crown of lighted candles; from this chair came out
my little girl, Marie, in full dress of the time of Louis XV.,
powdered wig, long dress and many diamonds. Nothing could have been
prettier, more dignified, more stately and gracious. On leaving her
chair she went round the stage exactly like a great lady. The prologue
was charming and was greatly appreciated; I foolishly began to weep
with emotion on seeing the gracefulness of this dear child. The
melodrama was very well played: the _Malade Imaginaire_ was not
sufficiently well known or taken sufficiently briskly; moreover it
made the entertainment much too long. The costumes of the melodrama
were magnificent, and in the _Malade Imaginaire_ were precisely those
of Molière's age. To conclude, the three couplets at the end, composed
by the Grand Duchess, were charming and in the best of taste.
_Nice, March 14, 1842._--Prince Wasa arrived here yesterday from
Florence, where he has left his wife, to pay a few days' visit to his
mother-in-law, the Grand Duchess Stephanie. I think she would have
been glad to avoid this attention. She took him about everywhere as
soon as he arrived, and we met them on the French schooner, commanded
by M. de Clérambault. A party of us, including the Castellanes, Fanny,
Charles de Talleyrand and myself, paid a visit to this vessel and to
the yacht of Lord Ranelagh, which is also at anchor in the harbour at
Nice. M. de Clérambault was a comrade of my son, M. de Dino, when he
was serving in the Navy. I was much impressed to see in his cabin,
round his mother's portrait, a rosary and a little crucifix which had
been given him by the Pope on the condition that he would hang them up
in his cabin, which he scrupulously does. This young officer greatly
distinguished himself at the capture of Saint Juan d'Ulloa[54] and
was decorated in consequence at the age of twenty-eight. What a pity
my son did not follow the same career.
[54] High-handed action in Mexico to the detriment of French
residents obliged the French Government to raise claims in 1837,
which produced no result. A French fleet then blockaded the fort
of Saint Juan d'Ulloa, which commands the entrance to Vera Cruz.
The fleet, under the command of Rear-Admiral Baudin, captured the
fort on November 27, 1838, after a resistance of several months,
and then obliged the Mexican Government to sign a treaty at Vera
Cruz on March 9, 1839.
_Nice, March 15, 1842._--Yesterday morning was devoted to the open
air. The Grand Duchess had arranged a picnic of twenty people,
including ourselves. We drove, each from our own starting-places, to
an inn situated at the top of a mountain which rises between the bay
of Nice and that of Villefranche; then returning by another mountain
we went to Beaulieu, where we lunched under great olive-trees. After
this we mounted donkeys and followed a rather narrow path round the
bay of Saint-Soupir and reached Saint-Hospice, where Lord Ranelagh's
yacht was lying. The weather was so fine, the sea so calm and the
distance so short that even I was persuaded to venture. However, far
from being contrary, the wind was so light that we hardly moved, and
spent an hour and a half in returning to Nice, a journey usually made
in half an hour.
_Nice, March 18, 1842._--Madame de Lieven writes that Sainte-Aulaire
is giving great satisfaction, both at London and at Paris, but there
is and will be, none the less, a certain amount of friction between
the two Cabinets. The King of Prussia will go to St. Petersburg at the
end of June.
M. Bresson writes that Count Maltzan is not likely to take the
portfolio of Foreign Affairs, and it is not yet known whether the King
will decide to replace him with Kanitz or Bülow. The two men represent
divergent views. Kanitz is a pietist and legitimist, while Bülow is
neither one nor the other.
_Nice, March 21, 1842._--For some days I have been feeling distinctly
ill, and the day before yesterday my feverishness became so pronounced
that I was obliged to go to bed, and was soon afterwards covered with
an eruption all over my body. It is an epidemic which has been
prevalent here for the last fortnight, and is called in Italian
_rosalia_; it is a medium between scarlatina and measles, and is less
malignant than either of these diseases, though at the same time it
makes the patient feel very ill.
_Nice, March 24, 1842._--People here are very kind, and every one
shows more interest in me than I deserve on account of my illness. The
Grand Duchess came to see me as soon as her daughter was attacked by
the same disease, and her fears of carrying infection were removed.
The Comtesse Adèle de Maistre, a sister of the Governor--a kind,
clever, and benevolent saint, who has taken a fancy to me--nurses me
as if I was her sister, for which I am deeply grateful. The good prior
of the Récollets de Cimier heard from his mendicant brother, who
brings me flowers in exchange for what I put in his wallet, that I was
ill, and came to see me; I was very glad to see him. The doctor
assures me that my convalescence is in sight, and that in a few days
he will allow me to go into the open air. In this climate eruptive
sicknesses are not as serious as they are elsewhere.
_Nice, March 27, 1842._--Society here is about to disperse. However,
some foreign families remain at Nice even during the summer; the
climate and the cheapness of living induces many people to stay, if
not permanently, at any rate for several years in succession.
This morning I was suddenly aroused by cannon-shots, announcing Easter
Day. These, with the rattles of the street boys and the guns of the
garrisons, made an appalling uproar. Yesterday all the houses, and
every room in every house, were blessed by one of the parish priests,
who sprinkles all the dwellings with water, and is followed by a
choir-boy.
A letter from Germany, which I have just received, gives me some news
of considerable importance to my personal interests. My nephew has
definitely refused to agree to the arrangement proposed by his mother,
and my sister has sold me the whole of the allodial part of Sagan, or
the part which she claimed to be subject to this condition. This will
considerably complicate my business, and will absolutely force me to
travel to Prussia next year.
_Nice, March 29, 1842._--Yesterday I went for a drive, and left cards
upon all who had inquired for me during my illness. I feel that the
open air did me much good.
M. de Barante writes to say that M. de Rémusat is giving readings from
a work called _Abélard_;[55] he speaks of it as a singular production
in dramatic form, the reading of which will occupy three sessions of
three hours each--a very long period.
[55] This work by M. de Rémusat eventually appeared in 1845; it
contains a masterly exposition of Abélard's teaching and his
scholastic philosophy.
_Nice, March 30, 1842._--I hope soon to leave this town, and I shall
write more freely as soon as I am on French territory; for in the
Sardinian states before a letter arrives or leaves its starting-place,
it has generally been opened several times. The traces are obvious,
and this knowledge has often paralysed my pen.
_Nice, April 1, 1842._--Yesterday evening I went to a great ball given
by the Duke of Devonshire, as a conclusion to the season at Nice. Like
everything that he does, it was magnificent; the lighting of the hall
was especially novel and beautiful; there were no chandeliers, but
three great arches formed of palm branches and surmounted with a row
of candles; each of these arches was placed upon the pillars at each
side of the hall, a most novel and tasteful device. I there said
good-bye to all the company present. I leave Nice fairly well
satisfied with my stay. There have been some drawbacks, but the good
side outweighs the bad, and my general recollections will be pleasant.
_Aix-en-Provence, April 3, 1842._--I left Nice yesterday and was very
sorry to part from the Castellane trio. They are no less sorry at my
departure. The weather was superb, the sea a deep blue, the flowers
abundant and the road admirable as far as Cannes. The hills of the
Esterel were still somewhat rough. I came on here without stopping,
hoping to find the Abbé Dupanloup and to have a talk with him. I only
missed him by an hour. He has been forced to go forward without
stopping, owing to the regulations of the postal service; he left me a
little note expressing his regret. I am now starting for Nîmes and
shall go by way of Arles, a road which I do not know. Nîmes I visited
during my first journey to the south, in 1817, a terribly long time
ago.
_Nîmes, April 5, 1842._--I arrived here yesterday evening. It was
raining when we passed by Arles and I was unable to visit the points
of interest. I was especially struck by the new and magnificent road,
full of works of art, which crosses the most frightful country in the
world and leads here from Aix. First of all it crosses a district
called the Crau, which is horribly sterile and is composed of nothing
but pebbles. Water has been drawn from the Durance to irrigate this
accursed land by an infinity of little canals. It can only be hoped
that these measures may evoke a little vegetation. From Arles onwards
the country is less ugly, though the Camargue is not beautiful, and
apart from some wild oxen I saw nothing curious. The girls of Arles
have a great reputation for their beauty and their pretty costumes.
Here I was unfortunate, for I saw nothing but very ugly faces and very
dirty and slovenly dresses.
My travelling companions, Fanny, her governess and Charles de
Talleyrand are starting to see the Pont du Gard which I saw a long
time ago. On their return we shall visit the curiosities of the town
and go on together to Montpellier.
_Montpellier, April 6, 1842._--Yesterday we visited the antiquities of
Nîmes, which I was glad to see again. They are well preserved, and I
can remember that some years ago they made me understand the charm of
real proportion. Unfortunately the weather is wretched and it is very
vexing to encounter rain in a country which constantly suffers from
drought.
_Toulouse, April 8, 1842._--We left Montpellier the day before
yesterday at the end of the morning. I gave lunch to the Rector of the
Academy[56] and to his eldest daughter who is my goddaughter, for her
mother, who died of the cholera, had been brought up with me, and I
have always kept up my connection with this very estimable family.
Then we went to see the Fabre[57] museum which is poor, and the better
chosen and better arranged museum of the Marquis of Montcalm. Finally,
under umbrellas, we went round the famous promenade of Peyrou. In good
weather, which we did not enjoy yesterday, the sea, the Pyrenees, the
Cévennes and the Alps, can be seen from a certain point. All that we
could see was the castle, the aqueducts and the equestrian statue of
Louis XIV.
[56] At that time M. Gergonne, officer of the Legion of Honour.
[57] The museum of Montpellier is now one of the best of
provincial museums. It was founded in 1825 by Fabre, who returned
to his native town after a stay of forty years in Italy, and
brought with him a fine collection of pictures, some of which
came to him from Alfieri, several works of art and a valuable
library, which he bequeathed to the town of Montpellier on his
death.
_Bordeaux, April 10, 1842._--We came on here from Toulouse without
stopping. The weather was better but a bitter wind succeeded the rain,
and I am now taking care of myself by the fire while the others
explore the town. I have repeatedly visited the south of France and
can now afford to take my travelling duties easily. To-day we shall
start again, and the day after to-morrow, if God wills, we shall sleep
at Rochecotte. I am longing to be at rest in my own dear home.
Letters from Berlin say that Bülow is really to succeed Maltzan. He
owes his triumph to the fact that he is the opposite of Kanitz.
Maltzan is in a sanatorium at Charlottenberg.
Madame de Lieven has fallen a victim to influenza: M. Guizot does not
leave her bedside; both are absolute devotees to music. M. Guizot will
talk of nothing else and professes inability to sleep after visiting
the opera. He is the subject of much ridicule in consequence.
The military manœuvres this summer will extend from Alsace to
Champagne. Such towns as Châlons, Vitry, &c., will be attacked. The
Duc d'Orléans will lead the forces.
_Rochecotte, April 13, 1842._--At last I am at home again!
At Bordeaux while we were at lunch I had an unexpected call from the
Abbé Genoude. I have often met him on different occasions, but never
in my own house. He was staying in the same hotel, had just been
preaching, and so paid me this unexpected attention. He is a clever
and even an agreeable man, and is anxious to be gracious and
insinuating. I was extremely polite, as he is not a good subject for
rebuffs, but I went no further. As he went out he drew Charles de
Talleyrand aside; he often used to see his mother in times past, and
told him that his newspaper was entirely at my orders[58] if at any
time I wished to insert anything. This is very strange and very
characteristic of the age.
[58] The Abbé Genoude was manager of the _Gazette de France_.
_Rochecotte, April 16, 1842._--I have a letter from Toulouse from the
Castellanes. They are waiting until the sea will allow them to cross
to Corsica; however, if the weather does not moderate in two days they
intend to go to Perpignan by land. I hope I shall find that they have
executed this latter idea.
_Rochecotte, April 17, 1842._--The Castellanes have decided for
Corsica[59].
[59] The sight of the Corsican coast and the reading of Mérimée's
novel, _Colomba_, which had just appeared in the _Revue des Deux
Mondes_, stirred the enterprising character of the Marquis de
Castellane to anxiety to make this journey, which he carried out
with his family, and the excursion, which was somewhat
adventurous at that time, lasted nearly two weeks. On his return
to France he went to Perpignan, where the commandant was his
father, the Comte de Castellane, who had been appointed
Lieutenant-General after his return from the siege of Antwerp.
Sainte-Aulaire writes to me from London as follows: "I have not left
my most troublesome task to the end of my labours: the failure to
ratify the treaty, the controversy concerning Algiers, and more than
all the Anglophobia which our press maintains and proclaims, has made
my political position somewhat difficult. Beneath all this friction,
however, there is a desire and a necessity upon either side to avoid a
breach. Upon this I am attempting to work and it will eventually have
its effect. I am very kindly treated by society. The Court is cold but
polite."
M. de Salvandy writes from Paris; "Politics are pervaded by a cold
and morose spirit. M. Guizot's influence is now predominant. Questions
concerning the right of visitation are causing him much trouble and
perplexity. The King is very busy with the Spanish question and that
of marriage; the mission of M. Pageot is bearing fruit; the vetos
which I have advised and secured have obviated resolutions which would
have been disgraceful and dangerous. Only a Bourbon will reign over
Spain. Meanwhile M. Molé is turning to literature: on Thursday he will
introduce M. de Tocqueville to the French Academy; if fortune favours
him, this will be an event, for he is gaining ground and strengthening
his position by absence and retirement. Of the three rivals, Thiers
loses ground whether he is in action or repose: M. Guizot is likely to
lose by action what he gains by speech; M. Molé is strengthening his
position by inaction and silence after improving it in the struggle."
_Rochecotte, April 21, 1842._--There is to be an entertainment to-day
at the Tuileries. _Polyeucte_ and _Richard Cœur de Lion_ will be
played.
The Queen is to take a seat in the Academy this morning for the
reception of M. de Tocqueville by M. Molé; these formalities are
becoming quite fashionable.
Public opinion in Paris is rising against England and shows some
exasperation concerning the right of visitation. We are assured that
the electors will require from the deputies undertakings in their
manifestoes not to yield upon this point. Madame de Lieven, who is
generally optimistic, is said to be much depressed and to be repeating
that things are going wrong. At London the one topic is a fancy dress
ball for May 12 which has thrown the ladies into great excitement;
they are sending to Paris for pictures and models.
Pauline writes to me from Ajaccio that she is very pleased with her
expedition and she has already forgotten the thirty-six hours'
seasickness and is on her way to Sardinia with her husband. This news
arouses considerable misgivings in my mind, but her energy shows that
she is strong again and at any rate it keeps her away from the cold of
Auvergne; moreover, if she is interested and happy what more can be
wished?
_Rochecotte, April 22, 1842._--Barante writes on the evening before
the session of the Academy, to which I have referred: "The session
will be very fine: both speeches are quite remarkable; it will be a
grave but courteous tournament on the questions of the Revolution, the
Empire and the Democracy. M. Royer-Collard is delighted by the
prospect; public opinion is quite eager and the Academy pleased to
find itself so fashionable. I fear that when I introduce M. Ballanche
next week I shall not come off so well, for the work of the subject of
my speech obliges me to give a philosophical address which is perhaps
a little too solemn both for the occasion and the audience.
"Politics are entirely preoccupied by questions of railway
construction, and how the deputies will disentangle these matters I do
not know."
_Rochecotte, April 24, 1842._--My letters from Paris and the
newspapers are full of the speeches of M. Molé and of M. de
Tocqueville: they agree in saying that the former was quite successful
and the latter extremely wearisome; what I have read myself in the
_Journal des Débats_ leaves me with the same impression.
The newspapers report the death of Marshals Moncey and Clausel.
_Rochecotte, April 25, 1842._--So far as I can hear the methods of
amusement adopted by young ladies of the present day are quite
unparalleled; the clique known as the _lionnes_ devise forms of
entertainment worthy of the Regency. On this question I remember the
answer of M. de Talleyrand to a young lady who replied somewhat rudely
that during his youth people were just as bad; "that may be," said M.
de Talleyrand, "but not in the same way."
Madame Mollien sends me an account of the entertainment at the
Tuileries. She says that the room when every one had taken their
places was a fine sight, but that order was preceded by a period of
utter chaos. The authorities had resolved that everybody should make
their way to the drawing-room and follow the Royal Family. The result
was that the last princess was followed by a general rush of all the
ladies, without any respect for rank or position: the crowd grew
denser as it advanced, and the rush degenerated into a battle; Madame
de Toreno lost her mantilla, and this part of the proceedings was
perfection of its kind. The dramatic performance was dull: although
the King set the example by applauding, he was not imitated; a want of
harmony between the audience and the stage was obvious. M. Thiers went
sound asleep.
Paris is raised to universal enthusiasm by a portrait of the Duc
d'Orléans which Ingres had just painted and which is said to be
admirable.
_Rochecotte, April 17, 1842._--The castle of Coblentz is being rebuilt
as a royal residence: eight hundred workmen are now occupied in making
it habitable for next autumn, as the King of Prussia proposes to spend
September and October there.
The following is a copy of M. Royer-Collard's opinion of the session
of the Academy: "M. Molé carried off the honours and overshadowed M.
de Tocqueville, in my opinion, unjustly. I had read the speeches and
was keenly interested by M. de Tocqueville's, although I could foresee
that it would not rouse the sympathies of the audience. Elevation of
thought, some admirable passages and fine ideas, did not
counterbalance the accuracy of the criticism. I then learnt that the
Emperor and the Empire have a greater influence over men's minds than
I was aware. M. Molé had realised the fact more clearly than myself
and had turned it to excellent account: to considerable talent and an
infinite power of dissimulation he adds a sprightliness of delivery
which will never be surpassed. The laudation of the Empire and the
blackening of the democracy were the vengeance which he took upon the
superior speech of M. de Tocqueville." M. Royer-Collard has announced
that he will no longer come forward as a candidate for election;
probably one of his nephews will take his place in the next Chamber.
Here is an extract from Madame de Lieven's letter; as always, I give
it word for word: "There is very little prospect of seeing Pahlen back
at Paris. People think that Gourieff will possibly be sent: he is a
clever man and immensely rich; his wife is still pretty and inclined
to flirtation, so these qualities will suit Paris very well. You will
be sorry to hear of the misfortune which overtook M. Humann this
morning; he has just had an apoplectic stroke and there is no hope of
his recovery. You used to see him often at Baden as I sometimes did,
and both of us liked him. He was a figure of some importance, and it
will be difficult to find any one to take his place. Queen Victoria is
wholly occupied with her fancy dress ball: she will appear as Queen
Philippa and insists that her Court should wear costumes of that age;
Lord Jersey is obliged to agree, much to his consternation. His
married daughter has arrived at Vienna[60] and Prince Paul Esterhazy
wishes to go to London in order to prevent Lady Jersey from following
her daughter. It is even said that he wishes to retain his post, but
Metternich asserts that the ambassador does not reside at Vienna. Paul
Medem is in high favour with the Metternich household. Arnim is going
away on leave and Bernstorff will take his place meanwhile. I am
astonished that Bülow should have sent him here; I have an idea that
Bülow will endeavour to be a very interfering Minister. Queen
Isabella's marriage occupies the attention of every Cabinet, including
that of Vienna, but no one knows what the end of the affair will be."
[60] On February 8, 1842, Prince Nicolas Esterhazy had married
Lady Sarah Villiers, daughter of Lord and Lady Jersey.
I am sorry to hear of M. Humann's death: he was kind and obliging, and
was a man of original and distinguished talent; only a week ago he
spoke very kindly of me to the Duchesse d'Albuféra, and a kind
character will always be regretted. The _Journal des Débats_ also
reports the death of Bertin de Veaux. I feel it to be sad news, though
he had fallen out of our society for some time. He had a remarkable
mind and was very good-hearted; he remained most affectionate to
myself and to the memory of M. de Talleyrand. For twenty years he had
enjoyed our intimacy, shared our family habits and our confidence; and
thus the ranks are thinned and one's loneliness grows apace.
_Rochecotte, April 28, 1842._--The Cabinet has wisely completed its
numbers without delay[61] and has forced M. Lacave Laplagne to take
the vacancy on the refusal of M. Passy, but the loss of M. Humann is
none the less real and the perplexity of the Ministry has
correspondingly increased. Yesterday's newspaper relates a somewhat
amusing remark by Marshal Soult, who said when he heard of several
deaths during the last week, "Indeed! Apparently they are beating the
roll-call in the next world."
[61] By filling the place of M. Humann.
_Rochecotte, May 2, 1842._--I have heard from the Castellanes from
Bonifacio at the moment when they were about to cross to Sardinia.
This unusual expedition, thank Heaven, has been a great success. They
should now be on their way from Toulon to Perpignan. I shall be glad
to hear that they have returned to the Continent, if only because I
shall have news of them more constantly and more regularly.
The successful confinement of the Duchesse de Nemours and the birth of
the Comte d'Eu has naturally caused much delight among the Royal
Family.
_Rochecotte, May 5, 1842._--I have heard from Pauline from Toulon; she
gives no details, as she was disembarking, but I know that she is on
dry land and am relieved.
The Duc de Orléans wished to hear the _Abélard_ of M. de Rémusat and
spent three evenings at the house of Madame Récamier for that purpose.
A dozen members of the Opposition were also there, including M. and
Madame Thiers.
_Rochecotte, May 6, 1842._--The Castellanes are now at Perpignan and
are delighted with their tour in Corsica and Sardinia. Pauline rode on
horseback with a dagger in her waist-belt: she slept in the house of
the bandits and supped with Orso della Robbia, the hero of
Colomba;[62] she took shelter beneath the rock where the two gunshots
were fired and accepted, as a token of admiration, a dagger stained
with blood shed in the vendetta. The best part of it is that she had
the strength to go through these wanderings, that she is perfectly
happy and interested, that her husband is delighted with the
accomplishment of so original an enterprise, while their little Marie
is as healthy and cheerful as ever.
[62] _Colomba_ is a striking picture of a Corsican vendetta,
which has remained a famous and popular book. Mérimée first
published it in the _Revue des Deux Mondes_, where it appeared
during the winter of 1842.
The Carlist party is dividing more and more. The Duc de Noailles is at
the head of the moderate faction, which grows stronger. Berryer
remains at the head of the other, which is little more than a group,
and is steadily drifting towards the left.
_Rochecotte, May 10, 1842._--I have had good news from the
Castellanes. I miss them greatly. The pleasant company of Pauline, the
infinite resource of Henri's conversation and the pretty ways of
Marie, are a great help to me: I can trust myself to them and never
feel tired, and in their society I can unbend; they have become quite
necessary to me; they form part of all my projects and plans for the
future, and I cannot conceive my old age separated from them. I
flatter myself that I too have a real part in their life. Yesterday I
had a charming letter from Henri, full of confidence and tenderness,
saying what I was to them and to himself in particular. As soon as his
eccentricities have been forgotten, his good qualities become a real
tie of affection; he is entirely upright, loyal and sincere, of high
moral dignity and perfect nobility of heart. Louis, my son, is also a
pleasant companion and perfectly reliable; Alexandre has his good
points, but his position embitters his character and destroys the
equability of his temper. I am sometimes very sorry for him, as
financial reasons do not allow him to take the position he would
prefer. He is fond of his children, for which I do him full justice: I
also am fond of his granddaughter, who is sweet and pretty, and I grow
sad at the thought of what her future may be. At one time I was able
to do without children quite easily, but now I am entirely changed,
and I feel that something is really wanting when one or more of these
little people are not about me. I can give them my time with real
earnest and feel greatly drawn to these weak little beings for whom
Providence may have such great and strange destinies in store. It is
strange how age changes one's character, and it is a great blessing
granted by Providence which thus enables us to avoid many a thorn in
our paths.
_Rochecotte, May 11, 1842._--Newspapers yesterday told us of the
dreadful accident that happened on the railway on the left bank from
Versailles to Paris: the details are appalling. _Galignani_ gives them
in full, though the exact number or the names of the dead are not yet
known. The bodies, especially those which suffered from fire, are so
disfigured as to make identification impossible. Since the railways
were opened, this is the greatest, the most complicated and dreadful
accident which has occurred. I think the damages should be enormous;
the authorities will then be more careful, for accidents only happen
from want of precaution and attention.
_Rochecotte, May 15, 1842. (Whit Sunday.)_--M. de Barante arrived
yesterday at the end of the morning, pleasant, kind and affectionate
as ever. The people he found here are something of an obstacle to
conversation. He told me no news of any importance and his own future
remains very uncertain. If the health of M. de La Tour Maubourg
remains as deplorable as it is, he will be obliged to retire and
Barante will then go to Rome. The question of St. Petersburg may
remain open for a long time.
The only topic of conversation at Paris is the lavish magnificence of
Mr. Hope's residence and the entertainments given there. They are said
to equal nothing less than the drawing-rooms of Versailles under Louis
XIV.[63]
[63] William Hope, a Dutch financier of English origin,
son-in-law of General Rapp and the owner of a vast fortune,
settled in Paris in a house in the rue Neuve des Mathurins, which
became a social centre. When this house became too small for his
numerous entertainments, Mr. Hope built the large residence at
No. 57 Rue Saint Dominique, which was bought after his death
by Baron Seillière. He bequeathed it to his daughter, who
became Princesse de Sagan by her marriage with Boson de
Talleyrand-Perigord, Prince de Sagan and grandson of the Duchesse
de Talleyrand.
_Rochecotte, May 16, 1842._--Yesterday as I was driving to mass at the
parish church, the coachman insisted upon taking a wrong turning
through the woods in spite of my remonstrances. He upset the carriage
and broke his right leg. Madame de Sainte-Aldegonde and myself were
sitting at the back of the carriage, Madame de Dino and M. de Barante
in front, while Jacques was on the seat behind. He jumped in time and
suffered no harm: Barante and my daughter-in-law were also unscathed;
as I was sitting on the side towards which the carriage overturned,
Madame de Sainte-Aldegonde fell upon me and I was thus crushed by my
neighbour and the hood of the carriage. We were rescued by some people
who were going to mass. Madame de Sainte-Aldegonde wrenched the
muscles of her neck in trying to hold herself back; but the only real
subject for pity was the coachman. The rest of the day was spent in
recovering from the shock of this event and in the various little
cares necessitated by it.