CHAPTER XIV.

REMARKS ON IRRIGATION.

The ancient prosperity of Cyprus must have been due to artificial

irrigation, which ensured a maximum of production, similar to the

inundated lands of Egypt. In the latter country the Nile is a "Salvator

Mundi," without which Egypt would be a simple prolongation of the Nubian

and Libyan deserts, in the absence of a seasonable rainfall. The

difference between the great cereal-producing portion of Cyprus and the

Delta of Egypt is, that, although the plain of Messaria has been formed

chiefly through the action of the Pedias river and other periodical

mountain streams, which have deposited a rich stratum of soil during

inundations, the rivers are merely torrents, or simple conduits, which

carry off the waters of heavy storms, or intervals of rain, and act as

drains in conveying the surplus waters during floods; while at other

times they are absolutely dry.

If the Nile were controlled by a series of weirs or dams, with sluices

to divert the high waters of the period into natural depressions within

the desert, to form reservoirs at high levels for the supply of Egypt in

seasons of scarcity, the command of the water-supply would be far

preferable to the chances of rain in the most favoured country. Water,

like fire, should be the slave of man, to whom it is the first

necessity; therefore his first effort in his struggle with the elements

should reduce this power to vassalage. There must be no question of

supremacy; water must serve mankind.

Many years ago I published, in the Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia, my

ideas for the control of the Nile and the submersion of the cataracts by

a series of weirs, with water-gates for the facility of navigation;

which with certain modifications will some day assuredly be carried out,

and will render Egypt the most favoured country of the world, as

absolute mistress of the river which is now at the same time a tyrant

and a slave. The Pedias of Cyprus may during some terrific rainfall

assume proportions that would convey a most erroneous impression to the

mind of a stranger, who, upon regarding the boiling torrent

overspreading a valley of some miles in width in its impetuous course

towards ancient Salamis, might conclude that it was a river of the first

importance. The fact is that no RIVER exists in Cyprus: what should be

rivers are mere channels, watercourses, brooks, torrents, or any of the

multifarious names for stream-beds that may be discovered in an English

dictionary. At the same time that the natural channels are dry during

the summer months, through the want of power in the water-head to

overcome the absorption of the porous soil throughout its course, it

must not be forgotten that a certain supply exists at the fountain head,

within practicable distance, which might be stored and led from the

mountains to the lower lands for the purposes of irrigation. When we

reflect that in the proverbially wet climate of England there is a

considerable difficulty in assuring a supply of wholesome water, and

that the various water companies have made enormous profits, it is not

surprising that in a neglected island like Cyprus there should be

distress in the absence of abundant rain. The uninitiated in England

seldom appreciate the labour and expenditure that has supplied the

response to the simple turning of a tap within an ordinary house. If

they would follow the artificial stream from the small leaden pipe to

the distant reservoir, they would discover that a glen or valley has

been walled in by a stupendous dam, which imprisons a hill-rivulet

before it can have descended to the impurities of habitations, and that

the pressure of waters thus stored at an elevated level forces a supply

to a town at a distance of many miles. This same principle might be

adopted in numerous localities among the mountains of Cyprus, where the

streams are perennial, but are now exhausted by the absorption of the

sandy beds before they have time to reach the villages in the lower

lands. Iron pipes might be laid to convey a water-supply to certain

districts, upon which a rate would be levied per acre and the crops

would be ensured.

The government at the present moment obtains a revenue in kind, or in a

money valuation of the corn taken at the threshing-floor; thus in the

absence of a crop through drought, or other accident, the revenue

suffers directly together with the owner: no crop, no revenue. The main

strength of a country lies in an annual income free from serious

fluctuations, and the extreme instability of Cyprus is the result of the

peculiar uncertainty of seasons which is a special feature in its

meteorological condition. It is therefore incumbent upon the government,

as an act of self-preservation, to take such measures of precaution as

will render certain the supply of water, which is all that is required

to ensure the average produce of the soil, and thereby to sustain the

revenue.

I do not indulge in engineering details, but, from the experience I have

gained by a personal examination of the localities, I am convinced that

no difficulty whatever exists that would not be overcome with a very

moderate outlay. The mountains are admirably situated, with a watershed

upon all sides, thus offering the greatest facilities for reservoirs and

pipes that would radiate in every direction. This subject will demand a

careful inquiry by hydraulic engineers, as it is a special branch of the

profession that requires wide experience, and large sums may be

fruitlessly expended through ignorance, where a trifling amount well

administered might achieve great results.

One of the first necessary steps in an examination of the subterranean

water-supply of Cyprus will be "borings" that will test the existence

of artesian springs. There are in many portions of the island extensive

plateaux at high altitudes that would absorb a considerable rainfall, in

addition to a large superficial area of mountains and hills that would

exert the requisite pressure to force the water above the surface of a

lower level upon boring, should it now lie beneath some impervious

stratum. Boring will alone solve this question. Should artesian wells be

practicable in certain localities, an immense blessing will be conferred

upon the island.

In the meantime the native method already described, of connecting

chains of wells from different springs converging to a main channel or

subterranean tunnel, is an original form of Cyprian engineering

thoroughly understood by the population, which should be strenuously

encouraged. It is a common fault among English people to ignore the

value of native methods, and to substitute some costly machinery which

requires skilled labour and expense in working; this must in time get

out of order and necessitate delay and extra outlay in repairs;

generally at a period when the machine is most required.

It is a curious fact that the shadoof or lever and bucket worked by

hand, which is so generally used throughout Egypt, is unknown in Cyprus,

where in many localities it would be easily worked when water is within

five to eight feet of the surface. This arrangement only requires a pole

of about twenty feet in length supported upon an upright post, so as to

play like a pump-handle by the balance of a weight attached to one end

to counterbalance the pail of water suspended to a long stick and short

rope at the other extremity. In Egypt the weight at the short end is

merely a mass of clay tempered with chopped straw beaten together to

represent about 150 lbs. or whatever may be required; this adheres, and

forms a knob to the end of the lever.

A man holds the long thin stick suspended at the other extremity to

which the bucket is attached, and pulls it down hand over hand until the

utensil is immersed in the water; when full, it is so nearly

counterbalanced by the weight at the end of the lever that a very slight

exertion raises it to the desired level, where it is emptied into a

receiver. Many years ago, when at Gondokoro, I arranged a double shadoof

of parallel levers and two galvanised iron buckets of four gallons each,

worked by two men. I timed the labour of this simple machine, and proved

that the two men delivered 3600 gallons within an hour. The men exerted

themselves to a degree that could not have been continued throughout the

day, and the buckets, of English make, were far more capacious than the

simple leather stretched upon a hoop of sticks that is used in Egypt;

but there is no reason for such inferior adjuncts. It may be safely

assumed that with proper appliances the double shadoof, worked by two

men, will deliver 2000 gallons an hour for a working day of six active

hours, or a total of 12,000 gallons. In Cyprus the wages of a labourer

are one shilling a day, therefore the cost of raising 12,000 gallons

would be only two shillings, provided the water is only five feet from

the surface. There are many portions of the Messaria plain where the

water is even nearer, but the shadoof could work profitably at six, and

even at eight feet, and it possesses the advantage of such extreme

cheapness of original cost that the outlay is insignificant.

Where fuel is expensive, and cattle and human labour cheap, the ancient

Egyptian water-wheel will deliver a supply at a cheaper rate than steam.

It has the merit of being always ready; there is no delay in lighting

fires and getting up the steam; there is no expensive engineer who may

be sick or absent when required; but the wheel is turned either by night

or day by mules or oxen, driven by a child. Wind vanes might be attached

to this principle, and could be connected on favourable occasions.

The peculiarity throughout the lower levels in Cyprus (specially

exhibited in the plain of Messaria) of a water-supply within a few feet

of the surface, at the same time that the crops may be perishing from

drought, is in favour of the general adoption of the Egyptian wheel.

Although this simple construction is one of the oldest inventions for

raising water, and is generally understood, I may be excused for

describing it when upon the important topic of irrigation.

A large pit is sunk to about three feet below the level of the water,

and should the earth not be sufficiently tenacious for self-support, the

sides are walled with masonry; this pit would usually be about twenty

feet long, four feet wide, and twenty feet deep for a first-class wheel.

When the wooden wheel of about seventeen feet diameter has been fixed

upon its horizontal shaft, it is arranged with a chain of large earthen

jars; those of Egypt contain about three gallons each, but the Cyprian

pots are very inferior, scarcely exceeding the same number of quarts.

These jars are secured upon a double line of stiff ropes formed in

Cyprus of the long twisted wands of myrtle, which are exceedingly tough,

and are substitutes for willows in basket-work. When completed, the

chain resembles a rope ladder, with the numerous jars sufficiently close

together to represent spokes separated by about sixteen inches. This is

suspended over the edge of the wheel, and hangs vertically; the lower

portion of this necklace-like arrangement being about three feet below

the water, or as near the bottom as is possible with safety to the jars.

When the wheel turns the necklace of pots must of necessity obey the

movement, and as they dip successively and fill in the deep water, they

in turn rise to the surface with the revolutions of the wheel; upon

passing the centre they invert, and empty their contents into a large

trough connected with a reservoir capable of containing many hundred

hogsheads. A circular chain or ladder of twenty feet diameter will

contain about twenty jars of three gallons each--equalling a delivery

of about two and a half gallons per jar, as there is generally a loss of

water during the movement; therefore one complete revolution of the

wheel would deliver fifty gallons into the reservoir.

The wheel is turned by a simple contrivance of wooden cogs and drivers,

worked by a long revolving lever, to which, for a powerful machine such

as I have described, a pair of mules or oxen would be necessary. A child

sits upon the pole or lever and keeps the animals to their work.

There is no specified limit to the depth at which this instrument can

work, as it must depend upon the length of chain and the number of jars,

which of course increase the weight and strain upon the machinery and

animals. In Cyprus, where the water is generally near the surface, the

advantages are obvious, and I feel convinced that no modern invention is

so well adapted for the Cypriote cultivator.

The cost of erection of such a machine complete, together with the

sinking of the pit, is calculated, at an average of localities, as 12

pounds; a pair of oxen will cost 10 pounds: thus the water-wheel in

working order will amount to 22 pounds. One wheel will irrigate eighty

donums, or about forty acres of cereals, but the same instrument would

only suffice for about six acres of garden ground, which requires a more

constant supply of water. It may therefore be understood that in

calculating the power of a water-wheel, various conditions must be

considered, and I shall confine myself to the farm, upon which it will

be necessary to establish one water-wheel or sakyeeah for every forty

acres; this entails a first outlay of eleven shillings per acre; and at

once ensures the crop and renders the farmer independent of the seasons.

But including the cost of constructing the numerous water-channels of

clay to conduct the stream to the desired fields, together with the

expense of erecting the reservoirs of masonry upon a sufficient scale, I

should raise the original outlay for irrigation by cattle-wheels to 20

shillings per acre (1 pound). This would include the services of a pair

of oxen for other work when the sakyeeah should not be required.* (*The

wheel I have described is double the power of those in general use in

Cyprus, where a single animal works the sakyeeah, and it would irrigate

a larger acreage.) According to this calculation, which exceeds by a

large margin the figures given to me by several native farmers, the

owner of a hundred acres must only expend 100 pounds to ensure his

annual crops! To us this appears nothing, but to the Cypriote it is

everything. Where is he to obtain one hundred pounds? To him the sum is

enormous and overpowering.

In times of scarcity, which unfortunately are the general conditions of

the country, owing to the deficiency of rain, the farmer must borrow

money not only for the current expenses of his employment, but for the

bare sustenance of his family; he has recourse to the usurer, and

henceforth becomes his slave. The rate of interest may be anything that

can be imagined when extortion acts upon one side while poverty and

absolute famine are the petitioners. The farm, together with the stock,

are mortgaged, and the expected crops for a stipulated number of seasons

are made over to the usurer at a fixed sum per measure of corn, far

below the market price. Another bad season adds to the crushing burden,

and after a few years, when the unfortunate landowner is completely

overwhelmed with debt, perchance one of the happy years arrives when

propitious rains in the proper season bring forth the grand

cereal-producing power of Cyprus, and the wheat and barley, six feet

high, wave over the green surface throughout the island. The yield of

one such abundant crop almost releases the debtor from his misery;

another year would free him from the usurer; but rarely or never are two

favourable seasons consecutive; the abundant harvest is generally

followed by several years of drought. This pitiable position may be

quickly changed by government assistance without the slightest risk.

The first necessity is capital, and the usurer must disappear from the

scene. I do not think that an agricultural bank will be practically

worked, as the value of money in the east is above 6 per cent., which is

the maximum that the Cyprian cultivator should pay. The government must

advance loans for the special erection of water-wheels, or other methods

of irrigation, at 6 per cent., taking a mortgage of the land as their

security; this loan upon water-works to take precedence of all others.

The government can borrow at 4 per cent., and will lend at 6, which is

not a bad beginning for a national bank. The water-wheels can be

constructed in a few weeks, and their effect would be IMMEDIATE; there

would be no doubtful interval of years, but the very first season would

leave the cultivator in a position to repay the loan; at the same time,

the government would reap the direct benefit of a certain revenue from

the irrigated and assured production of the land.

This is no visionary theory; the fact is already patent in the few farms

belonging to wealthy land-owners that I have already described, as

exhibiting the simple power of a few water-wheels to produce abundance,

while upon the margin of such verdant examples the country is absolutely

desert, parched and withered by a burning sun, yielding nothing either

to the owner or to the revenue, while at the same time the water-supply

is only four or five yards beneath the feet of the miserable proprietor,

who has neither capital nor power to raise it to the surface.

There is no necessity for the government to embark in any uncertain

enterprise, neither should they interfere with the native methods of

irrigation; and above all things, no money should leave the island to

fill the pockets of English contractors in the purchase of pumps, or

other inventions. All that is required by the Cypriote is capital; lend

him the money at 6 per cent.: the government will be saved all trouble,

and the profit to all parties will be assured. The money expended in the

erection of water-wheels or other works will circulate throughout the

island in the payment of native labour, and will relieve the wants of

many who, in the absence of land, must earn their livelihood by manual

labour. "Water!" is the cry throughout this neglected island; it has

been the cry in Eastern lands from time immemorial, when in the thirsty

desert Moses smote the rock, and the stream gushed forth for multitudes;

when Elijah mocked the priests of Baal with, "Call him louder!" in their

vain appeal for rain, and the "little cloud, no bigger than a man's

hand," rose upon the horizon in answer to his prayer. In the savage

tribes of Africa, the "rain-maker" occupies the position of priest and

chief. In England, the clergy offer prayers for either rain or for fine

weather. In Cyprus the farmer places the small picture of the Virgin

upon his field, before which he lights his tapers, which the wind

extinguishes; at the same time THE WATER-SUPPLY IS CLOSE BENEATH HIS

FEET, and the expenditure of a few pounds sterling would produce a

permanent blessing and uninterrupted prosperity by practical common

sense and labour, without any miraculous interposition in his behalf.

There are few countries where such facilities exist for irrigation, and

the work should be commenced without delay. Should next year be one of

drought like the spring of 1879, the greatest misery will befall the

population; there is already sufficient disappointment in the want of

progress since the British occupation, and the feeling will be

intensified should the assistance of government be withheld in this

crying necessity of artificial irrigation.

The Cypriote well-sinker is wonderfully clever in discovering springs,

and I have already described the method of multiplying the water-power

of one source by securing and concentrating the neighbouring sources.

This work only requires money, and the inhabitants, without further

assistance than loans secured by a water-rate upon the district, will

rapidly develop the natural supply. There should be a special commission

appointed, in each of the six districts of Cyprus, to investigate and

report officially upon this subject. In forming the commission, care

should be taken that the native element should predominate, and that no

enthusiastic English engineer, blooming with new schemes, should thrust

into shadow the Cyprian intelligence upon the working of their own

systems. If I were an English engineer employed in any work, I should

probably have the natural failing of enforcing my own opinions; but from

many years' experience I have come to the conclusion that the

inhabitants of a country are generally better qualified than strangers

for giving practical opinions upon their own locations. There is plenty

of intelligence in Cyprus; the people are not savages, but their fault

is poverty, the natural inheritance of Turkish rule; and we, the

English, have the power to make them rich, and to restore the ancient

importance of the island. In England, at the time that I am writing,

money is not worth 2 per cent. owing to the general depression of trade;

the money-market has been in this plethoric or dropsical state for the

last three years, and there appears to be no hope upon the commercial

horizon of a favourable change. In Cyprus the resources are great, but

the capital is wanting, and the strange anomaly is presented that the

exchange of the British for the Turkish flag has not increased public

confidence. Something must be done to change the present stupor; if

Cypriotes were Candians (Cretans) their voices would be forcibly heard,

and the Turkish rule beneath the British uniform would be quickly

overthrown. The Cypriote, down-trodden for centuries, is like sodden

tinder that will not awaken to the spark: he is what is called "easily

governed;" which means an abject race, in which all noble aspirations

have been stamped out by years of unremitting oppression and injustice;

still, like the Cyprian ox, he ploughs the ground. It is the earth alone

that yields the world's wealth: if we have no other thoughts but

avarice, let us treat the Cypriote as we should his animal, and make him

a wealth-producer. England has acquired the reputation of the civiliser

of the world; it is in this character that we were expected to effect a

magic change in the position of Cyprus; instead of which we have

hitherto presented a miserable result of half-measures, where

irresolution has reduced the brilliant picture of our widely-trumpeted

political surprise to a dull "arrangement in whitey-brown" . . . which

is the pervading tint of the Cyprian surface in the absence of

artificial irrigation.

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