CHAPTER IV.

THE ACROPOLIS OF ATHENS.

I suppose there can be no doubt whatever that the ruins on the Acropolis

of Athens are the most remarkable in the world. There are ruins far

larger, such as the pyramids, and the remains of Karnak. There are ruins

far more perfectly preserved, such as the great Temple at Pæstum. There

are ruins more picturesque, such as the ivy-clad walls of mediæval abbeys

beside the rivers in the rich valleys of England. But there is no ruin,

all the world over, which combines so much striking beauty, so distinct a

type, so vast a volume of history, so great a pageant of immortal

memories. There is, in fact, no building on earth which can sustain the

burden of such greatness, and so the first visit to the Acropolis is and

must be disappointing. When the traveller reflects how all the Old World’s

culture culminated in Greece—all Greece in Athens—all Athens in its

Acropolis—all the Acropolis in the Parthenon—so much crowds upon the mind

confusedly that we look for some enduring monument whereupon we can fasten

our thoughts, and from which we can pass as from a visible starting-point

into all this history and all this greatness. And at first we look in

vain. The shattered pillars and the torn pediments will not bear so great

a strain: and the traveller feels forced to admit a sense of

disappointment, sore against his will. He has come a long journey into the

remoter parts of Europe; he has reached at last what his soul had longed

for many years in vain: and as is wont to be the case with all great human

longings, the truth does not fulfil his desire. The pang of disappointment

is all the greater when he sees that the tooth of time and the shock of

earthquake have done but little harm. It is the hand of man—of reckless

foe and ruthless lover—which has robbed him of his hope. This is the

feeling, I am sure, of more than have confessed it, when they first wound

their way through the fields of great blue aloes, and passed up through

the Propylæa into the presence of the Parthenon. But to those who have not

given way to these feelings—who have gone again and again and sat upon the

rock, and watched the ruins at every hour of the day, and in the

brightness of a moonlight night—to those who have dwelt among them, and

meditated upon them with love and awe—there first come back the remembered

glories of Athens’s greatness, when Olympian Pericles stood upon this rock

with careworn Phidias, and reckless Alcibiades with Pious Nicias and

fervent Demosthenes with caustic Phocion—when such men peopled the temples

in their worship, and all the fluted pillars and sculptured friezes were

bright with scarlet, and blue, and gold. And then the glory of remembered

history casts its hue over the war-stained remnants. Every touch of human

hand, every fluting, and drop, and triglyph, and cornice recalls the

master minds which produced this splendor; and so at last we tear

ourselves from it as from a thing of beauty, which even now we can never

know, and love, and meditate upon to our hearts’ content.

Nothing is more vexatious than the reflection, how lately these splendid

remains have been reduced to their present state. The Parthenon, being

used as a Greek church, remained untouched and perfect all through the

Middle Ages. Then it became a mosque, and the Erechtheum a seraglio, and

in this way survived with little damage till 1687, when, in the

bombardment by the Venetians under Morosini, a shell dropped into the

Parthenon, where the Turks had their powder stored, and blew out the whole

centre of the building. Eight or nine pillars at each side have been

thrown down, and have left a large gap, which so severs the front and rear

of the temple, that from the city below they look like the remains of two

different buildings. The great drums of these pillars are yet lying there,

in their order, just as they fell, and some money and care might set them

all up again in their places; yet there is not in Greece the patriotism or

even the common sense to enrich the country by this restoration, matchless

in its certainty as well as in its splendor.

But the Venetians were not content with their exploit. They were, about

this time, when they held possession of most of Greece, emulating the

Pisan taste for Greek sculptures; and the four fine lions standing at the

gate of the arsenal at Venice still testify to their zeal in carrying home

Greek trophies to adorn their capital. Morosini wished to take down the

sculptures of Phidias from the eastern pediment, but his workmen attempted

it so clumsily that the figures fell from their place, and were dashed to

pieces on the ground. The Italians also left their lasting mark on the

place by building a high square tower of wretched patched masonry at the

right side of the entrance gate, which had of late years become such an

eyesore to the better educated public, that when I was first at Athens

there was a subscription on foot to have it taken down—not only in order

to remove an obtrusive reminiscence of the invaders, but in the hope of

bringing to light some pillars of the Propylæa built into it, as well as

many inscribed stones, broken off and carried away from their places as

building material. This expectation has not been verified by the results.

The tower was taken down by the liberality of M. Schliemann, and there

were hardly any inscriptions or sculptures discovered.

A writer in the _Saturday Review_ (No. 1134) attacks this removal of the

Venetian tower, and my approval of it, as a piece of ignorant and

barbarous pedantry, which from love of the old Greek work, and its

sanctity, desires to destroy the later history of the place, and efface

the monuments of its fortunes in after ages.(36) This writer, whose

personality is unmistakable, thinks that even the Turkish additions to the

Parthenon should have been left untouched, so that the student of to-day

could meditate upon all these incongruities, and draw from them historical

lessons. And, assuredly, of all lessons conveyed, that of a victory over

the Turks would be to this writer the most important and the most

delightful.

If this great man will not silence us with his authority, but let us argue

with him, we might suggest that there are, no doubt, cases where the

interests of art and of history are conflicting, and where a restoration

of pristine beauty must take away from the evidences of later history. The

real question is then, whether the gain in art is greater than the loss in

history. In the case of the Parthenon I think it is, now especially, when

records and drawings of the inferior additions can be secured. It may be

historically important to note the special work and character of every

generation of men; but surely for the education of the human race in the

laws of beauty, and in general culture, some ages are worth nothing, and

others worth everything; and I will not admit that this sort of education

is one whit less important than education in the facts of history.

Of course, artistic restorations are often carried too far; a certain age

may be arbitrarily assumed as the canon of perfection, and everything else

destroyed to make way for it. There are few ages which can lay claim to

such pre-eminence as the age of Pericles; yet even in this case, were the

mediæval additions really beautiful, we should, of course, hesitate to

disturb them. But the Venetian tower, though a picturesque addition to the

rock when seen from a distance, so much so, that I felt its loss when I

saw the Acropolis again, had no claim to architectural beauty; it was set

up in a place sacred to greater associations, and besides there was every

reasonable prospect that its removal would subserve historical ends of far

more importance than the Venetian occupation of the Acropolis. A few

inscriptions of the date of Pericles, containing treaties or other such

public matter, would, in my opinion, have perfectly justified its removal,

even though it did signify a victory of Christians over Turks.

In any case, it seems to me unfair that if every generation is to express

its knowledge by material results, we should not be permitted to record

our conviction that old Greek art or old Greek history is far greater and

nobler than either Turkish or Venetian history, and to testify this

opinion by making their monuments give way to it. This is the mark of

_our_ generation on the earth. Thus the eighteenth century was, no doubt,

a most important time in the history even of art, but where noble

thirteenth century churches have been dressed up and loaded with

eighteenth century additions, I cannot think the historical value of these

additions, as evidence of the taste or the history of their age,

counterbalances their artistic mischievousness, and I sympathize with the

nations who take them away. Of course, this principle may be overdriven,

and has been often abused. Against such abuses the remarks of the great

critic to whom I refer are a very salutary protest. But that any barbarous

or unsightly deforming of great artistic monuments is to be protected on

historical grounds—this is a principle of which neither his genius nor his

sneers will convince me. As for the charge of pedantry, no charge is more

easily made, but no charge is more easily retorted.

Strangely enough, his theory of the absolute sanctity of old brick and

mortar nearly agrees in results with the absolute carelessness about such

things, which is the peculiarity of his special enemies, the Turks. The

Turks, according to Dodwell, who is a most trustworthy witness, never

destroyed the old buildings unless they wanted them for masonry. He tells

us not to believe that the figures of the remaining pediment were used as

targets by the Turkish soldiers—a statement often made in his day. However

that may be, I have little doubt, from what I saw myself, that Greek

soldiers in the present day might so use them. But the Turks did take down

some pillars of the Propylæa while Dodwell was there, for building

purposes, an occurrence which gave that excellent observer the opportunity

of noting the old Greek way of fitting the drums of the pillars together.

He even got into his possession one of the pieces of cypress wood used as

plugs between the stone masses, and has given a drawing of it, and

explained the method of its use, in his admirable book.(37)

But the same traveller was also present when a far more determined and

systematic attack was made upon the remaining ruins of the Parthenon.

While he was travelling in the interior, Lord Elgin had obtained his

famous firman from the Sultan to take down and remove any antiquities or

sculptured stones he might require, and the infuriated Dodwell saw a set

of ignorant workmen, under equally ignorant overseers, let loose upon the

splendid ruins of the age of Pericles. He speaks with much good sense and

feeling of this proceeding. He is fully aware that the world would derive

inestimable benefit from the transplanting of these splendid fragments to

a more accessible place, but he cannot find language strong enough to

express his disgust at the way in which the thing was done. Incredible as

it may appear, Lord Elgin himself seems not to have superintended the

work, but to have left it to paid contractors, who undertook the job for a

fixed sum. Little as either Turks or Greeks cared for the ruins, Dodwell

says that a pang of grief was felt through all Athens at the desecration,

and that the contractors were obliged to bribe workmen with additional

wages to undertake the ungrateful task. He will not even mention Lord

Elgin by name, but speaks of him with disgust as “the person” who defaced

the Parthenon. He believes that had this person been at Athens himself,

his underlings could hardly have behaved in the reckless way they did,

pulling down more than they wanted, and taking no care to prop up and save

the work from which they had taken the supports.

He especially notices their scandalous proceeding upon taking up one of

the great white marble blocks which form the floor or stylobate of the

temple. They wanted to see what was underneath, and Dodwell, who was

there, saw the foundation—a substructure of Peiræic sandstone. But when

they had finished their inspection they actually left the block they had

removed, without putting it back into its place. So this beautiful

pavement, made merely of closely-fitting blocks, without any artificial or

foreign joinings, was ripped up, and the work of its destruction begun. I

am happy to add that, though a considerable rent was then made, most of it

is still intact, and the traveller of to-day may still walk on the very

stones which bore the tread of every great Athenian.

The question has often been discussed, whether Lord Elgin was justified in

carrying off this pediment, the metopes, and the friezes, from their

place; and the Greeks of to-day hope confidently that the day will come

when England will restore these treasures to their place. This is, of

course, absurd, and it may fairly be argued that people who would bombard

their antiquities in a revolution are not fit custodians of them in the

intervals of domestic quiet. This was my reply to an old Greek gentleman

who assailed the memory of Lord Elgin with reproaches. I told him that I

was credibly informed the Greeks had themselves bombarded the Turks in the

Acropolis during the war of liberation, as several great pieces knocked

out and starred on the western front testify. He confessed, to my

amusement, that he had himself been one of the assailants, and excused the

act by the necessities of war. I replied that, as the country seemed then

(1875) on the verge of a revolution, the sculptures might at least remain

in the British Museum until a secure government was established. And this

is the general verdict of learned men on the matter. They are agreed that

it was on the whole a gain to science to remove the figures, but all

stigmatize as barbarous and shameful the reckless way in which the work

was carried out.

I confess I approved of this removal until I came home from Greece, and

went again to see the spoil in its place in our great Museum. Though there

treated with every care—though shown to the best advantage, and explained

by excellent models of the whole building, and clear descriptions of their

place on it—notwithstanding all this, the loss that these wonderful

fragments had sustained by being separated from their place was so

terribly manifest—they looked so unmeaning in an English room, away from

their temple, their country, and their lovely atmosphere,—that one

earnestly wished they had never been taken from their place, even at the

risk of being made a target by the Greeks or the Turks. I am convinced,

too, that the few who would have seen them, as intelligent travellers, on

their famous rock, would have gained in quality the advantage now diffused

among many, but weakened and almost destroyed by the wrench in

associations, when the ornament is severed from its surface, and the

decoration of a temple exhibited apart from the temple itself. We may

admit, then, that it had been better if Lord Elgin had never taken away

these marbles. Nevertheless, it would be absurd to send them back, as has

recently been advocated (in 1890) by some ignorant English

sentimentalists. But I do think that the museum on the Acropolis should be

provided with a better set of casts of the figures than those which are

now to be seen there. They look very wretched, and carelessly prepared.

There are, indeed, preserved in the little museum on the Acropolis the

broken remains of the figures of the eastern pediment, which Morosini and

his Venetians endeavored to take down, as I have already told. They are

little more than pieces of drapery, of some use in reconstructing the

composition, but of none in judging the effect of that famous group.

But we must not yet enter into this little museum, which is most properly

put out of sight, at the lowest or east corner of the rock, and which we

do not reach till we have passed through all the ruins. As the traveller

stands at the inner gate of the Propylæa, he notices at once all the

perfect features of the buildings. Over his head are the enormous

architrave-stones of the Propylæa—blocks of white marble over twenty-two

feet long, which span the gateway from pillar to pillar. Opposite, above

him and a little to the right, is the mighty Parthenon, not identical in

orientation, as the architects have observed, with the gateway, but

varying from it slightly, so that sun and shade would play upon it at

moments differing from the rest, and thus produce a perpetual variety of

lights. This principle is observed in the setting of the Erechtheum also.

To the left, and directly over the town, stands that beautifully decorated

little Ionic temple, or combination of temples, with the stately Caryatids

looking inwards and towards the Parthenon. These two buildings are the

most perfect examples we have of their respective styles. We see at first

sight the object of the artists who built them. The one is the embodiment

of majesty, the other of grace. The very ornaments of the Parthenon are

large and massive; those of the Erechtheum for the most part intricate and

delicate. Accordingly, the Parthenon is in the Doric style, or rather in

the Doric style so refined and adorned as to be properly called the Attic

style.

For the more we study old Athenian art—nay, even old Athenian character

generally—the more are we convinced that its greatness consists in the

combination of Doric sternness and Ionic grace. It is hardly a mediation

between them; it is the adoption of the finer elements of both, and the

union of them into a higher harmony. The most obvious illustration of this

is the drama, where the Ionic element of recitation and the Doric choral

hymn were combined—and let me observe that the Ionic element was more

modified than the Doric. In the same way Attic architecture used the

strength and majesty of the older style which we see at Corinth and

Pæstum; but relieved it, partly by lighter proportions, partly by rich

decorations, which gave the nearer observer an additional and different

delight, while from afar the large features were of the old Doric majesty.

Even in the separate decorations, such as the metopes and friezes, the

graceful women and the long-flowing draperies of the Ionic school were

combined with the muscular nakedness of the Doric athlete, as represented

by Doric masters. Individual Attic masters worked out these contrasted

types completely, as we may see by the _Discobolus_ of Myron, a

contemporary of Phidias, and the _Apollo Musagetes_ of Scopas, who lived

somewhat later.(38)

In fact, all Athenian character, in its best days, combined the

versatility, and luxury, and fondness of pleasure, which marked the

Ionian, with the energy, the public spirit, and the simplicity which was

said to mark the better Doric states. The Parthenon and Erechtheum express

all this in visible clearness. The Athenians felt that the Ionic elegance

and luxury of style was best suited to a small building; and so they

lavished ornament and color upon this beautiful little house, but made the

Doric temple the main object of all the sacred height.

It is worth while to consult the professional architects, like Revett,(39)

who have examined these buildings with a critical eye. Not only were the

old Athenian architects perfect masters of their materials, of accurate

measurement, of precise correspondence, of all calculations as to strain

and pressure—they even for artistic, as well as for practical purposes,

deviated systematically from accuracy, in order that the harmony of the

building might profit by this imperceptible discord. They gave and took,

like a tuner tempering the chords of a musical instrument. The stylobate

is not exactly level, but curved so as to rise four inches in the centre;

the pillars, which themselves swell slightly in the middle, are not set

perpendicularly, but with a slight incline inwards: and this effect is

given in the Caryatids by making them rest their weight on the outer foot

at each corner, as Viollet-le-duc has admirably explained. Again, the

separation of the pillars is less at the corners, and gradually increases

as you approach the centre of the building. The base of the pediment is

not a right line, but is curved downward. It is not my province to go into

minute details on such points, which can only be adequately discussed by

architects. What I have here to note is, that the old Greek builders had

gone beyond mere mathematical accuracy and regularity. They knew a higher

law than the slavish repetition of accurate distances or intervals; they

had learned to calculate effects, to allow for optical illusions; they

knew how to sacrifice real for ideal symmetry.

The sculptures of the Parthenon have given rise to a very considerable

literature—so considerable that the books and treatises upon them now

amount to a respectable library. The example was set by the architect of

the building itself, Ictinus, who wrote a special treatise on his

masterpiece. As is well known, it was sketched in chalk by the French

painter, Jacques Carrey, a few years before the explosion of 1687; and

though he had but very imperfect notions of Greek art, and introduced a

good deal of seventeenth century style into the chaste designs of Phidias,

still these drawings, of which there are copies in the British Museum, are

of great value in helping us to put together the broken and imperfect

fragments which remain.(40)

The sculptured decorations of the building are of three kinds, or applied

in three distinct places. In the first place, the two triangular

_pediments_ over the east and west front were each filled with a group of

statues more than life-size—the one representing the birth of Athene, and

the other her contest with Poseidon for the patronage of Athens. Some of

the figures from one of these are the great draped headless women in the

centre of the Parthenon room of the British Museum: other fragments of

those broken by the Venetians are preserved at Athens. There are,

secondly, the _metopes_, or plaques of stone inserted into the frieze

between the triglyphs, and carved in relief with a single small group on

each. The height of these surfaces does not exceed four feet. There was,

thirdly, a band of reliefs running all around the external wall at the top

of the cella, inside the surrounding pillars, and opposite to them, and

this is known as the _frieze of the cella_. It consists of a great

Panathenaic procession, starting from the western front, and proceeding in

two divisions along the parallel north and south walls, till they meet on

the eastern front, which was the proper front of the temple. Among the

Elgin marbles there are a good many of the metopes, and also of the pieces

of the cella frieze preserved. Several other pieces of the frieze are

preserved at Athens, and altogether we can reconstruct fully three-fourths

of this magnificent composition.

There seems to me the greatest possible difference in merit between the

metopes and the other two parts of the ornament. The majority of the

metopes which I have seen represent either a Greek and an Amazon or a

Centaur and Lapith, in violent conflict. It appeared plainly to me that

the main object of these contorted groups was to break in upon the

squareness and straightness of all the other members of the Doric frieze

and architrave. This is admirably done, as there is no conceivable design

which more completely breaks the stiff rectangles of the entablature than

the various and violent curves of wrestling figures. But, otherwise, these

groups do not appear to me very interesting, except so far as everything

in such a place, and the work of such hands, must be interesting.

It is very different with the others. Of these the pediment

sculptures—which were, of course, the most important, and which were

probably the finest groups ever designed—are so much destroyed or

mutilated that the effect of the composition is entirely lost, and we can

only admire the matchless power and grace of the torsos which remain. The

grouping of the figures was limited, and indicated by the triangular shape

of the surface to be decorated—standing figures occupying the centre,

while recumbent or stooping figures occupied the ends. But, as in poetry,

where the shackles of rhyme and metre, which encumber the thoughts of

ordinary writers, are the very source which produces in the true poet the

highest and most precious beauties of expression; so in sculpture and

painting, fixed conditions seem not to injure, but to enhance and perfect,

the beauty and symmetry attainable in the highest art. We have apparently

in the famous Niobe group, preserved in Florence, the elements of a

similar composition, perhaps intended to fill the triangular tympanum of a

temple; and even in these weak Roman copies of a Greek masterpiece we can

see how beautifully the limited space given to the sculpture determined

the beauty and variety of the figures, and their attitudes. It was in this

genius of grouping that I fancy Phidias chiefly excelled all his

contemporaries: single statues of Polycletus are said to have been

preferred in competitions. To us the art of the _Discobolus_ of Myron

seems fully as great as that of any of the figures of the Parthenon; but

no other artist seems to have possessed the same architectonic power of

adapting large subjects and processions of figures to their places as

Phidias.(41) How far he was helped or advised by Ictinus, or even by

Pericles, it is not easy to say. But I do not fancy that Greek statesmen

in those days studied everything else in the world besides statecraft, and

were known as antiquaries, and linguists, and _connoisseurs_ of china and

paintings, and theologians, and novelists—in fact, everything under the

sun. This many-sidedness, as they now call it, which the Greeks called

_πολυπραγμοσύνη_ and thought to be meddlesomeness, was not likely to

infect Pericles. He was very intimate with Phidias, and is said to have

constantly watched his work—hardly, I fancy, as an adviser, but rather as

an humble and enthusiastic admirer of an art which did realize its ideal,

while he himself was striving in vain with rebel forces to attain his

object in politics.

The extraordinary power of grouping in the designs of Phidias is, however,

very completely shown us in the better preserved band of the cella frieze,

along which the splendid Panathenaic procession winds its triumphal way.

Over the eastern doorway were twelve noble sitting figures on either side

of the officiating priest, presenting the state robe, or _peplos_, for the

vestment of Athene. These figures are explained as gods by the critics;

but they do not in either beauty or dignity, excel those of many of the

Athenians forming the procession. A very fine slab, containing three of

these figures, is now to be seen in the little museum in the Acropolis.

This group over the main entrance is the end and summary of all the

procession, and corresponds with the yearly ceremony in this way, that, as

the state entrance, or Propylæa, led into the Acropolis at the west end,

or rear of the Parthenon, the procession in all probability separated into

two, which went along both sides of the colonnade, and met again at the

eastern door. Accordingly, over the western end, or rear, the first

preparations of the procession are being made, which then starts along the

north and south walls; the southern being chiefly occupied with the

cavalcade of the Athenian knights, the northern with the carrying of

sacred vessels and leading of victims for the sacrifice. The frieze over

the western door is still in its place; but, having lost its bright

coloring, and being in any case at a great height, and only visible from

close underneath, on account of the pillars and architrave in front, it

produces no effect, and is hardly discernible. Indeed it evidently was

never more than an architectural ornament, in spite of all its artistic

beauty.

The greater number of the pieces carried away by Lord Elgin seem taken

from the equestrian portion, in which groups of cantering and curveting

horses, and men in the act of mounting, and striving to curb restive

steeds, are brought together with extraordinary effect. We can see plainly

how important a part of Athenian splendor depended upon their knights, and

how true are the hints of Aristophanes about their social standing and

aristocratic tone. The reins and armor, or at least portions of it, were

laid on in metal, and have accordingly been long since plundered; nor has

any obvious trace remained of the rich colors with which the whole was

painted. There appears no systematic uniform, some of the riders being

dressed in helmets and cuirasses, some in felt wide-awakes, and short

flying cloaks. It must remain uncertain whether the artist did not seek to

obtain variety by this deviation from a fixed dress. There can be no doubt

that Greek art was very bold and free in such matters. On the other hand,

the type of the faces does not exhibit much variety. At the elevation

above the spectator which this frieze occupied, individual expression

would have been thrown away on figures of three feet in height: the

general dress, and the attitudes, may have been, when colored, easily

discernible.

But I confess that this equestrian procession does not appear to me so

beautiful as the rows of figures on foot (carrying pitchers and other

implements, leading victims, and playing pipes), which seem to come from

the north wall, and of which the most beautiful slabs are preserved at

Athens. Here we can see best of all that peculiar stamp which shows the

age of Phidias to have been the most perfect in the whole of Greek

sculpture. This statement will not be accepted readily by the general

public. The Apollo Belvedere, the Capitoline Venus, the Dying

Gladiator—these are what we have been usually taught to regard as the

greatest wonders of Greek plastic art; and those who have accustomed

themselves to this realistic and sensuous beauty will not easily see the

greatness and the perfection of the solemn and chaste art of Phidias.

[Illustration: Part of the West Frieze of the Parthenon, Athens]

Nevertheless, it will always be held by men who have thought long enough

on the subject, that the epoch when Myron and Phidias, Polycletus and

Polygnotus, broke loose from archaic stiffness into flowing grace was,

indeed, the climax of the arts. There seems a sort of natural law—of slow

and painful origin—of growing development—of sudden bloom into

perfection—of luxury and effeminacy—of gradual debasement and decay—which

affects almost all the arts as well as most of the growths of nature. In

Greek art particularly this phenomenon perpetually reappears. There can be

little doubt that the Iliad of Homer was the first and earliest long

creation in poetry, the first attempt, possibly with the aid of writing,

to rise from short disconnected lays to the greatness of a formal epic.

And despite all its defects of plan, its want of firm consistency, and its

obvious incongruities, this greatest of all poems has held its place

against the more finished and interesting Odyssey, the more elaborated

Cyclic poems, the more learned Alexandrian epics—in fact, the first full

bloom of the art was by far the most perfect. It is the same thing with

Greek tragedy. No sooner had the art escaped from the rude wagon, or

stage, or whatever it was, of Thespis, than we find Æschylus, with

imperfect appliances, with want of experience, with many crudenesses and

defects, a tragic poet never equalled again in Greek history. Of course

the modern critics of his own country preferred, first Sophocles, and then

Euripides—great poets, as Praxiteles and Lysippus were great sculptors,

and like them, perhaps, greater masters of human passion and of

soul-stirring pathos. But for all that, Æschylus is _the_ tragic poet of

the Greeks—the poet who has reached beyond his age and nation, and

fascinated the greatest men even of our century, who seek not to turn back

upon his great but not equal rivals. Shelley and Mr. Swinburne have both

made Æschylus their master, and to his inspiration owe the most splendid

of their works.

I will not prosecute these considerations further, though there may be

other examples in the history of art. But I will say this much concerning

the psychological reasons of so strange a phenomenon. It may, of course,

be assumed that the man who breaks through the old, stiff conventional

style which has bound his predecessors with its shackles is necessarily a

man of strong and original genius. Thus, when we are distinctly told of

Polygnotus that he first began to vary the features of the human face from

their archaic stiffness, we have before us a man of bold originality, who

quarrelled with the tradition of centuries, and probably set against him

all the prejudices and the consciences of the graver public. But to us,

far different features seem prominent. For in spite of all his boldness,

when we compare him with his forerunners, we are struck with his modesty

and devoutness, as compared with his successors. There is in him, first, a

devoutness toward his work, an old-fashioned piety, which they had not;

and as art in this shape is almost always a handmaid of religion, this

devoutness is a prominent feature. Next, there is a certain reticence and

modesty in such a man, which arises partly from the former feeling, but

still more from a conservative fear of violent change, and a healthy

desire to make his work not merely a contrast to, but a development of,

the older traditions. Then the old draped goddess of religious days, such

as the _Venus Genitrix_ in Florence, made way for the splendid but yet

more human handling which we may see in the Venus of Melos, now in the

Louvre. This half-draped but yet thoroughly new and chaste conception

leads naturally to the type said to have been first dared by Praxiteles,

who did not disguise the use of very unworthy human models to produce his

famous, or perhaps infamous ideal, which is best known in the _Venus de

Medici_, but perhaps more perfectly represented in the Venus of the

Capitol. There is, too, in the earlier artist that limited mastery over

materials, which, like the laws of the poet’s language, only condenses and

intensifies the beauty of his work.

Such reserve, as compared with the later phases of the art, is nowhere so

strongly shown as in the matter of _expression_. This is, indeed, the rock

on which most arts have ultimately made shipwreck. When the power over

materials and effects becomes complete, so that the artist can as it were

perform feats of conquest; when at the same time the feeling has died out

that he is treading upon holy ground, we have splendid achievements in the

way of intense expression, whether physical or mental, of force, of

momentary action, of grief or joy, which are good and great, but which

lead imitators into a false track, and so ruin the art which they were

thought to perfect. Thus over-reaching itself, art becomes an anxious

striving after display, and, like an affected and meretricious woman,

repels the sounder natures which had else been attracted by her beauty. In

Greek art especially, as I have already noticed in discussing the Attic

tomb reliefs, this excess of expression was long and well avoided, and

there is no stronger and more marked feature in its good epochs than the

reserve of which I have spoken. It is the chief quality which makes the

school of Phidias matchless. There is in it beauty of form, there is a

good deal of action, there is in the frieze an almost endless variety; but

withal there is the strictest symmetry, the closest adherence to fixed

types, the absence of all attempt at expressing passing emotion. There is

still the flavor of the old stiff simplicity about the faces, about the

folds of the robes, about the type of the horses; but the feeling of the

artist shines through the archaic simplicity with much clearer light than

it does in the more ambitious attempts of the later school. The greatest

works of Phidias—his statue of Zeus at Elis, and his Athene in the

Parthenon—are lost to us; but the ancients are unanimous that for simple

and sustained majesty no succeeding sculptor, however brilliant, had

approached his ideal.(42)

We may say almost the same of the great temple which he adorned with his

genius. It is just that perfection of the Doric temple which has escaped

from the somewhat ponderous massiveness and simplicity of the older

architecture, while it sacrificed no element of majesty to that grace and

delicacy which marks, later and more developed Greek architecture. On this

Acropolis the Athenians determined to show what architecture could reach

in majesty and what in delicacy. So they set up the Parthenon in that

absolute perfection where strength and solidity come out enhanced, but in

no way overlaid, with ornament. They also built the Erechtheum, where they

adopted the Ionic Order, and covered their entablature with bands of small

and delicate tracing, which, with its gilding and coloring, was a thing to

be studied minutely and from the nearest distance. Though the inner

columns of the Propylæa were Ionic (and they were very large), it appears

that large temples in that Order were not known in Attica. But for small

and graceful buildings it was commonly used, and of these the Erechtheum

was the most perfect.

In its great days, and even as Pausanias saw it, the Acropolis was covered

with statues, as well as with shrines. It was not merely an Holy of Holies

in religion; it was also a palace and museum of art. At every step and

turn the traveller met new objects of interest. There were archaic

specimens, chiefly interesting to the antiquarian and the devotee; there

were the great masterpieces which were the joint admiration of the artist

and the vulgar. Even all the sides and slopes of the great rock were

honeycombed into sacred grottos, with their altars and their gods, or

studded with votive monuments. All these lesser things are fallen away and

gone; the sacred caves are filled with rubbish and desecrated with worse

than neglect. The grotto of Pan and Apollo is difficult of access, and

was, when I first saw it, an object of disgust rather than of interest.

There are left but the remnants of the surrounding wall, and the ruins of

the three principal buildings, which were the envy and wonder of all the

civilized world.

The walls are particularly well worth studying, as there are to be found

in them specimens of all kinds of building, beginning from prehistoric

times. There is even plain evidence that the builders of the age of

Pericles were not by any means the best wall builders; for the masonry of

the wall called the Wall of Themistocles, which is well preserved in the

lowest part of the course along the north slope, is by far the most

beautifully finished work of the kind which can anywhere be seen: and it

seems to correspond accurately to the lower strata of the foundations on

which the Parthenon was built. The builders of Pericles’s time added a

couple of layers of stone to raise the site of the temple, and their work

contrasts curiously in its roughness with the older platform. Any one who

will note the evident admiration of Thucydides for the walls built round

the Peiræus by the men of an earlier generation will see good reason for

this feeling when they examine these details.

The beautiful little temple of Athena Nike, though outside the

Propylæa—thrust out as it were on a sort of great bastion high on the

right as you enter—must still be called a part, and a very striking part,

of the Acropolis. It is only of late years that the site has been cleared

of rubbish and modern stonework, and the temple rebuilt from the original

materials, thus destroying, no doubt, some precious traces of Turkish

occupation which the fastidious historian may regret, but realizing to us

a beautiful Greek temple of the Ionic Order in some completeness. The

peculiarity of this building, which is perched upon a platform of stone

and commands a splendid prospect, is, that its tiny peribolus, or sacred

enclosure, was surrounded by a parapet of stone slabs covered with

exquisite reliefs of winged Victories, in various attitudes. Some of these

slabs are now in the Museum of the Acropolis, and are of great

interest—apparently less severe than the school of Phidias, and therefore

later in date, but still of the best epoch and of marvellous grace. The

position of this temple also is not parallel with the Propylæa, but turned

slightly outward, so that the light strikes it at moments when the other

building is not illuminated. At the opposite side is a very well preserved

chamber, and a fine colonnade at right angles with the gate, which looks

like a guard-room. This is the chamber commonly called the Pinacotheca,

where Pausanias saw pictures of frescoes by Polygnotus.

Of the two museums on the Acropolis, the principal one requires little

comment and is very easily seen and appreciated. In an ante-room are the

archaic figures of which I have already spoken, with the remains taken

from about the Parthenon, together with casts of the Elgin marbles, and

many small and beautiful reliefs, apparently belonging to votive

monuments. There are also two figures of young men, with the heads and

feet lost, which are of peculiarly beautiful Parian marble, and of very

fine workmanship. But the visitor is very likely to pass by the little

Turkish house, which is well worth a visit, for here are the cypress plugs

from the pillars of the Parthenon or Propylæa; here are also splendid

specimens of archaic vases, such as are very hard indeed to find in any

other collection. The large jars from Melos which are here to be seen have

the most striking resemblance in their decoration to the fragment of a

similar vessel, with a row of armed figures round it, which was found at

Mycenæ, and is now in the Ministry of Public Instruction. Lastly, there

stands in the window a very delicately worked little Satyr, as the pointed

ears and tail show, but of voluptuous form—rather of the hermaphrodite

type: there is hardly a better preserved statuette than this anywhere at

Athens. It seemed a pity that such a gem should be hidden away in so

obscure a place; and I hope that by this time it has been brought into the

larger and official museum.

I will venture to conclude this chapter with a curious comparison. It was

my good fortune, a few months after I had seen the Acropolis, to visit a

rock in Ireland, which, to my great surprise, bore many curious analogies

to it—I mean the rock of Cashel. Both were strongholds of religion—honored

and hallowed above all other places in their respective countries—both

were covered with buildings of various dates, each representing peculiar

ages and styles in art. And as the Greeks, I suppose for effect’s sake,

have varied the posture of their temples, so that the sun illumines them

at different moments, the old Irish have varied the orientation of their

churches that the sun might rise directly over against the east window on

the anniversary of the patron saint. There is at Cashel the great

Cathedral—in loftiness and grandeur the Parthenon of the place; there is

the smaller and more beautiful Cormac’s Chapel, the holiest of all, like

the Erechtheum at Athens. Again, the great sanctuary upon the Rock of

Cashel was surrounded by a cluster of abbeys about its base, which were

founded there by pious men on account of the greatness and holiness of the

archiepiscopal seat. Of these, one remains, like the Theseum at Athens,

eclipsed by the splendor of the Acropolis.

The prospect from the Irish sanctuary has, indeed, endless contrasts to

that from the pagan stronghold, but they are suggestive contrasts, and

such as are not without a certain harmony. The plains around both are

framed by mountains, of which the Irish are probably the more picturesque;

and if the light upon the Greek hills is the fairest, the native color of

the Irish is infinitely more rich. So, again, the soil of Attica is light

and dusty, whereas the Golden Vale of Tipperary is among the richest and

greenest in the world. Still, both places were the noblest homes, each in

their own country, of religions which civilized, humanized, and exalted

the human race; and if the Irish Acropolis is left in dim obscurity by the

historical splendor of the Parthenon, on the other hand, the gods of the

Athenian stronghold have faded out before the moral greatness of the faith

preached from the Rock of Cashel.

Rambles and Studies in Greece · 第 4 / 17 章