TO AUCKLAND, IN NEW ZEALAND.
LEAVING SYDNEY--ANCHOR WITHIN THE HEADS--TAKE IN MAILS AND PASSENGERS
FROM THE 'CITY OF ADELAIDE'--OUT TO SEA AGAIN--SIGHT NEW
ZEALAND--ENTRANCE TO AUCKLAND HARBOUR--THE 'GALATEA'--DESCRIPTION OF
AUCKLAND--FOUNDING OF AUCKLAND DUE TO A JOB--MAORI MEN AND
WOMEN--DRIVE TO ONEHUNGA--SPLENDID VIEW--AUCKLAND GALA--NEW ZEALAND
DELAYS--LEAVE FOR HONOLULU.
On the last day of December, 1870, I set out for Honolulu, in the
Sandwich Islands, embarking as second-class passenger on board the
'City of Melbourne.' Our first destination was Auckland, in New
Zealand, where we were to stop for a few days to take in passengers
and mails.
I had been so fortunate as accidentally to encounter a friend, whom I
knew in Maryborough, in the streets of Sydney. He was out upon his
summer holiday, and when he understood that I was bound for New
Zealand, he determined to accompany me, and I had, therefore, the
pleasure of his society during the earlier part of my voyage.
As we steamed down the harbour I had another opportunity of admiring
the beautiful little bays, and sandy coves, and wooded islets of Port
Jackson. The city, with its shipping, and towers, and spires,
gradually receded in the distance, and as we rounded a headland Sydney
was finally shut out from further view.
We were soon close to the abrupt headlands which guard the entrance to
the bay, and letting drop our anchor just inside the southern head, we
lay safely sheltered from the gale which began to blow from the east.
There we waited the arrival of the 'City of Adelaide' round from
Melbourne, with the last mails and passengers for England by the
California route.
But it was some time before the 'Adelaide' made her appearance. Early
next morning, hearing that she was alongside, I hurried on deck. The
mails were speedily brought off from the inward-bound ship, together
with seven more passengers. Our anchor was at once weighed, and in ten
more minutes we are off. We are soon at the entrance to the Heads; and
I see by the scud of the clouds, and the long line of foaming breakers
driving across the entrance, that before long we shall have the spray
flying over our hurricane deck. Another minute and we are outside,
plunging into the waves and throwing the water in foam from our bows.
I remain upon deck, holding on as long as I can. Turning back, I see a
fine little schooner coming out of the Heads behind us, under a good
press of sail. On she came, dipping her bows right under the water,
but buoyant as a cork. Her men were aloft reefing a sail, her yards
seeming almost to touch the water as she leaned over to leeward.
Passing under our stern, she changed her course, and the plucky little
schooner held up along the coast, making for one of the northern
ports.
Taking a last look at the Sydney Heads, I left the further navigation
of the ship in the hands of the captain, and retired below. I was too
much occupied by private affairs to see much more of the sea during
the next twenty-four hours. New Year's Day though it was, there was
very little jollity on board; indeed, as regarded the greater number
of the passengers, it was spent rather sadly.
The weather, however, gradually moderated, until, on the third day of
our voyage, it became fine, such wind as there was being well aft. On
the fifth day, the wind had gone quite down, and there only remained
the long low roll of the Pacific; but the ship rolled so heavily that
I suspect there must have been a very strong under-current somewhere
about. Early in the forenoon we sighted the "Three Kings' Island," off
the extreme north coast of New Zealand. At first they seemed to
consist of three detached rocks; but as we neared them, they were
seen to be a number of small rocky islands, with very little
vegetation on them. The mainland shortly came in sight, though it was
still too distant to enable us to recognise its features.
Early next morning, we found ourselves steaming close in shore past
Cape Brett, near the entrance to the Bay of Islands. The high cliffs
along the coast are bold and grand; here and there a waterfall is
seen, and occasionally an opening valley, showing the green woods
beyond. In the distance are numerous conical hills, showing the
originally volcanic character of the country. During the forenoon we
passed a huge rock that in the distance had the appearance of being a
large ship in full sail; hence its name of the "Sail Rock."
The entrance to the harbour of Auckland, though by no means equal to
Port Jackson, is yet highly picturesque. On one side is the city of
Auckland, lying in a hollow, and extending up the steep hills on
either side; while opposite to it, on the north shore of the Frith of
Thames, is a large round hill, used as a pilot signal station.
Situated underneath it are many nice little villas, with gardens close
to the sea. The view extends up the inlets, which widens out and
terminates in a background of high blue mountains. From Auckland, as
from Sydney, the open sea is not to be seen--there are so many
windings in and out before the harbour is reached.
A fine Queen's ship was lying at anchor in the bay, which, on inquiry,
we found to be the 'Galatea,' commanded by the Duke of Edinburgh. The
'Clio' also was anchored not far off. We were soon alongside the long
wooden pier, to which were also moored several fine clipper ships, and
made our way into the town. As the principal street continued straight
in from the pier, we were shortly enabled to see all the principal
buildings of the place.
Though a small shipping town, there seems to be a considerable amount
of business doing at Auckland. There is a good market-place, some
creditable bank buildings, and some three or four fine shops, but the
streets are dirty and ill-paved. The Supreme Court and the Post
Office--both fine buildings--lie off the principal street. The
Governor's house, which occupies a hill to the right, commands a fine
view of the bay, as well as of the lovely green valley behind it.
Auckland, like Sydney, being for the most part built upon high land,
is divided by ravines, which open out towards the sea in little coves
or bays--such as Mechanics' Bay, Commercial Bay, and Official Bay. The
buildings in Mechanics' Bay, as the name imports, are principally
devoted to ship-building, boat-building, and rope-making. The shore of
Commercial Bay is occupied by the store and shop-keeping people, while
Official Bay is surrounded by the principal official buildings, the
Government storehouses, and such like.
I have been told here that Auckland is completely out of place as the
capital of the colony, being situated at the narrowest part of the
island, far away from the principal seats of population, which are in
Cook's Straits and even further south. The story is current that
Auckland is due to an early job of Government officials, who combined
to buy up the land about it and when it had been fixed upon as the
site of the capital, sold out their lots at fabulous prices, to the
feathering of their own nests.
A great many natives, or Maoris, are hanging about the town. It seems
that they are here in greater numbers than usual, their votes being
wanted for the passing or confirmation of some land measure. Groups of
them stand about the streets talking and gesticulating; a still
greater number are hanging round the public-houses, which they enter
from time to time to have a drink. I cannot say I like the look of the
men; they look very ugly customers indeed--beetle-browed and
down-looking, "with foreheads villanous low." Their appearance is all
the more revolting by reason of the large blue circles of tattoo on
their faces. Indeed, when the New Zealander is fully tattooed, which
is the case with the old aristocrats, there is very little of his
original face visible, excepting perhaps his nose and his bright black
eyes.
Most of the men were dressed in the European costume, though some few
were in their native blankets, which they wear with grace and even
dignity. The men were of fine physique--tall, strong, and
well-made--and, looking at their keen fierce eyes, I do not wonder
that they have given our soldiers so much trouble. I could not help
thinking, as I saw them hanging about the drinking-shops, some half
drunk, that English drink will in the long run prove their conquerors
far more than English rifles.
There were many Maori women mingled with the men. Some of them were
good looking. Their skin is of a clear dark olive; their eyes dark
brown or black; their noses small and their mouths large. But nearly
all of them have a horrid blue tattoo mark on their lips, that serves
to give them--at least to European eyes--a repulsive look.
Many of the women, as well as the men, wear a piece of native
greenstone hanging from their ears, to which is attached a long piece
of black ribbon. This stone is supposed by the Maoris to possess some
magical virtue. Others of them--men, as well as girls--have sharks'
teeth hanging from their ears and dangling about their faces,--the
upper part of the teeth being covered with bright red wax.
Mixed with the Maoris were the sailors of the 'Galatea,' rolling about
the streets, and, like them, frequent customers of the public-houses.
In fact, the sailors and the Maoris seemed to form a considerable
proportion of the population of the place.
The landlord of the hotel at which we stayed--the 'Waitemata'--having
recommended us to take a drive into the interior, we set out at midday
by stage coach for Onehunga. Auckland being situated at the narrowest
part of the North Island, Onehunga, which is on the west coast, is
only seven miles distant by land, though five hundred by water.
The coach started at noon, and it was hard work for the four horses
to drag the vehicle up the long steep hill at the back of the town.
Nice country-houses stood on both sides of the road, amidst fresh
green gardens; the houses almost buried in foliage.
From the high road a magnificent landscape stretched before us. It
reminded me very much of a particular view of the Lake of Geneva,
though this was even more grand and extensive. The open sea was at
such a distance, and so shut out by intervening high land, that it was
scarcely visible. The lovely frith or bay, with its numerous inlets,
islands, and surrounding bright green hills, lay at our feet. The blue
water wound in and out amongst the hills on our right for a distance
of about fifteen miles. There was a large open stretch of water,
surrounded by high mountains, towards the west. Right before us was
the entrance to the bay, with the pilot-station hill on one side and
Mount Victoria on the other. Between these two hills, high land stood
up in the distance, so that the whole gave one the impression of a
beautiful inland lake rather than of a sea view. It was, without
exception, the most magnificent prospect I had ever looked upon. Yet
they tell me this is surpassed by the scenery in other parts of New
Zealand; in which case it must indeed be an exceedingly picturesque
country.
We drove along through a pretty green country, with fine views of the
plains toward the right, bounded by distant blue mountains. In about
another quarter of an hour, after passing through the village of
Epsom, we came in sight of the sea on the west coast, and were
shortly set down at Onehunga, on the shore of Manukau Bay. Onehunga is
a small township, containing a few storehouses, besides
dwelling-houses, with an hotel or two. The view here was also fine,
but not so interesting as that on the eastern side of the island.
Plains, bounded by distant mountains, extended along the coast on one
side, and high broken cliffs ran along the shore and bounded the sea
in front of us. After an hour's rest, at Onehunga, we returned to
Auckland, enjoying the drive back very much, in spite of the
inconveniently-crowded coach.
There was a sort of gala in Auckland that evening. A promenade concert
was given on the parade-ground at the barracks, at which the band of
the 'Galatea' played to the company. The Prince himself, it was
announced, would perform on the occasion. It was a fine moonlight
night, and the inhabitants of Auckland turned out in force. There must
have been at least two thousand well-dressed people promenading about,
listening to the music. The Prince's elephant was there too, and
afforded a good deal of amusement. How the poor brute was slung out of
the 'Galatea,' got on shore, and got back on ship-board again, was to
me a mystery.
I went down to the steamer at the appointed time of sailing, but found
that the 'City' was not to leave for several hours after time. The
mail express was to wait until Mr. and Mrs. Bandman--who had been
acting in Auckland--had received some presentation from the officers
of the 'Galatea'! It seemed odd that a mail steamer should be delayed
some hours to suit the convenience of a party of actors. But there
are strange doings connected with this mail line. Time is of little
moment here; and, in New Zealand, I suspect time is even less valued
than usual. They tell me that few mails leave New Zealand without
having to wait, on some pretext or another. There does not seem to be
the same activity, energy, and business aptitude that exists in the
Australian colonies. The Auckland people seem languid and half asleep.
Perhaps their soft, relaxing, winterless climate has something to do
with it.
Having nothing else to occupy me before the ship sailed, I took leave
of my Australian friend, gave him my last messages for Maryborough and
Majorca, and went on board. I was wakened up about midnight by the
noise of the anchor coming up; and, in a few minutes more, we were off
and on our way to Honolulu up the Pacific.