CONCLUSION OF MAJORCAN LIFE.
VICTORIAN LIFE ENGLISH--ARRIVAL OF THE HOME MAIL--NEWS OF THE
FRANCO-GERMAN WAR--THE GERMAN SETTLERS IN MAJORCA--THE SINGLE
FRENCHMAN--MAJORCAN PUBLIC TEAS--THE CHURCH--THE RANTERS--THE
TEETOTALLERS--THE COMMON SCHOOL--THE ROMAN CATHOLICS--COMMON SCHOOL
FETE AND ENTERTAINMENT--THE MECHANICS' INSTITUTE--FUNERAL OF THE TOWN
CLERK--DEPARTURE FROM MAJORCA--THE COLONY OF VICTORIA.
The reader will observe, from what I have above written, that life in
Victoria is very much like life in England. There are the same people,
the same callings, the same pleasures and pursuits, and, as some would
say, the same follies and vices. There are the same religious bodies,
the same political movements, the same social agencies--Teetotal
Societies, Mechanics' Institutes, Friendly Societies, and such like.
Indeed, Victoria is only another England, with a difference, at the
Antipodes. The character, the habits of life, and tone of thought of
the people, are essentially English.
You have only to see the interest with which the arrival of every mail
from England is watched, to recognise the strength of the tie that
continues to unite the people of the colony with those of the Old
Country. A flag is hoisted over the Melbourne Post Office to announce
its coming, and soon the news is flashed by telegraph all over the
colony. Every local post-office is eagerly besieged by the expecters
of letters and newspapers. Speaking for myself, my most exciting day
in the month was that on which my home letters arrived; and I wrote at
intervals all through the month against the departure of the outgoing
mail.
The excitement throughout the colony became intense when the news
arrived from England of the defeat of the French before Metz. The
first news came by the 'Point de Galle,' and then, six days later,
intelligence was received _via_ San Francisco, of the disaster at
Sedan. Crowds besieged the office of the local paper at Talbot when
the mail was telegraphed; and the doors had to be shut to keep them
out until the telegram could be set up in type and struck off. At
first the news was not believed, it was so extraordinary and
unexpected; but the Germans in the town accepted it at once as true,
and began their rejoicings forthwith. The Irish at Talbot were also
very much excited, and wished to have a fight, but they did not
exactly know with whom.
There are considerable numbers of Germans settled throughout the
colony, and they are a very useful and industrious class of settlers.
They are for the most part sober and hard-working men. I must also add
that they minister in no small degree to the public amusement. At
Maryborough they give very good concerts. Here, the only band in the
town is furnished by the German settlers, and being a very good one,
it is in request on all public occasions. The greater number of the
Germans live at MacCullum's Creek, about a mile distant, where they
have recently opened a Verein or Club, celebrating the event, as
usual, by a dance. It was a very gay affair. The frantic Deutschers
and their Fraus danced like mad things--Tyrolese waltzes and
old-fashioned quadrilles. There was a great deal of singing in praise
of Vaterland and Freundschaft, with no end of "Hochs!" They kept it
up, I was told, until broad daylight, dispersing about eight o'clock
in the morning.
The Germans also give an annual picnic, which is a great event in the
place. There is a procession in the morning, headed by their band and
the German tri-colour flag. In the afternoon there are sports; and in
the evening continuous dancing in a large marquee. One of the chief
sports of the afternoon is "Shooting at the Eagle" with a cross-bow,
and trying to knock off the crown or sceptre from the effigy of a
bird, crowned with an eagle and holding a sceptre, stuck up on the top
of a high pole. The crown or the sceptre represents a high prize, and
each feather struck off represents a prize of some value or other.
The French have only one representative in the town. As I soon got to
know everybody in the place, dropping in upon them in their houses,
and chatting with them about the last news from home, I also made the
acquaintance of the Frenchman. He had last come from Buenos Ayres,
accompanied by Madame. Of course the news about the defeat of the
French army was all false--merely a vile _canard_. We shall soon know
all. I confess I like this French couple very much. Their little house
is always so trim and neat. Fresh-plucked flowers are usually set out
on the mantel-piece, on the arrangement and decoration of which Madame
evidently prides herself. Good taste is so cheap and so pleasant a
thing, that I wish it were possible for these French people to
inoculate their neighbours with a little of it. But rough plenty seems
to be sufficient for the Anglo-Saxon.
I must tell you of a few more of the doings of the place, to show how
very much life here resembles life in England. The place is of course
newer, the aggregation of society is more recent, life is more rough
and ready, more free and easy, and that is nearly all the difference.
The people have brought with them from the old country their habits of
industry, their taste for holidays, their religious spirit, their
desire for education, their love of home life.
Public Teas are an institution in Majorca, as at home. There being but
little provision for the maintenance of religious worship, there is a
constant whipping up for money; and tea-meetings are usually resorted
to for the purpose of stimulating the flagging energies of the people.
Speakers from a distance are advertised, provisions and hot water are
provided in abundance; and after a gorge of tea and buns, speeches are
fired off, and the hat goes round.
We had a great disappointment on one occasion, when the Archdeacon of
Castlemaine was advertised to preach a sermon in aid of our church
fund, and preside at the subsequent tea-meeting. Posters were stuck
up; great preparatory arrangements were made; but the Archdeacon did
not come. Some hitch must have occurred. But we had our tea
nevertheless.
The Ranters also are great at tea-meetings, but still greater at
revival meetings. Matthew Burnett, "the great Yorkshire evangelist,"
came to our town to rouse us from our apathy, and he certainly
contrived to work up many people, especially women, to a high pitch of
excitement. The meetings being held in the evenings, and continued far
into the nights, the howling, shouting, and groaning were by no means
agreeable noises to such sinners in their immediate neighbourhood as
slept lightly,--of whom I was one.
Burnett was at the same time the great star of the Teetotallers, who
held him in much esteem. He was a man of a rough sort of eloquence,
probably the best suited for the sort of people whom he came to
address and sought to reclaim; for fine tools are useless for doing
rough work. Another very good speaker at their meetings was known as
Yankee Bill, whose homely appeals were often very striking, and even
affecting in a degree. At intervals they sang hymns, and sang them
very well. They thus cultivated some taste for music. They also kept
people for the time being out of their favourite "publics." Like many
teetotallers, however, they were very intolerant of non-teetotallers.
Some even went so far as to say that one must be a teetotaller to get
to heaven. Yet, notwithstanding all their exaggerations, the
teetotallers do much good; and their rough appeals often penetrate
hearts and heads that would be impervious to gentler and finer
influences.
Let me not forget to mention the public entertainments got up for the
benefit of the common school of the town. The existing schools being
found too small for the large number of children who attend, it was
proposed to erect another wing for the purposes of an infant school.
With this object, active efforts were made to raise subscriptions; the
understanding being that the Government gives a pound for every pound
collected in the district.
The difficulties in managing these common schools seem to be
considerable, where members of different religious persuasions sit on
the Managing Committee. At Majorca the principal difficulty seemed to
be with the Roman Catholics; and it was said that their priest had
threatened to refuse absolution to such parents as allowed their
children to attend the common school. Whatever truth there might be in
this story, it is certain that about thirty-six children _were_
withdrawn, and instead of continuing to receive the elements of a good
education, they were entrusted to the care of an old man quite
incompetent for the office, but who was of the right faith.
I was enlisted as a collector for the school fund, and went round
soliciting subscriptions; but I found it up-hill work. My district lay
in the suburbs, and I was by no means successful. A good many of
those I called upon were Ranters; and I suspect that the last
sensation preacher had carried off what otherwise might have fallen to
my share. I was tolerably successful with the diggers working at their
claims. At least they always gave me a civil answer. One of them said,
"Well, if our washing turns out well on Saturday, you shall have five
shillings." And the washing must have turned out well, for on Saturday
evening the digger honestly brought me the sum he had named.
Further to help the fund, a fete was held in the open air, and an
entertainment was given by amateurs in the Prince of Wales's
Theatre,--for our little town also boasts of its theatre. The fete was
held on Easter Monday, which was kept as a holiday; and it commenced
with a grand procession of Odd Fellows, Foresters, German Verein,
Rechabites, and other clubs, all in their Sunday clothes, and many of
them wearing very gorgeous scarfs. The German band headed the
procession, which proceeded towards the paddock at MacCullum's Creek
used on such festive occasions. There all the contrivances usually
adopted for extracting money from the pockets of the visitors were in
full operation. There was a bazaar, in which all manner of useless
things were offered for sale; together with raffles, bowls, croquet,
dancing, shooting at the eagle, tilting at the ring, and all sorts of
sports; a small sum being paid on entry. I took up with a forlorn Aunt
Sally, standing idle without customers, and by dint of sedulous
efforts, contrived to gather about a pound in an hour and a half. All
did their best. And thus a pleasant day was spent, and a good round
sum of money was collected for the fund.
The grand miscellaneous entertainment was also a complete success. The
theatre was filled with a highly-respectable audience, including many
gaily-dressed ladies, and all the belles of Majorca and the
neighbourhood. Indeed I wondered where they could all come from. The
performances excited the greater interest, as the whole of them were
by amateurs, well known in the place. The songs went off well; and
several of them were encored. After the concert, the seats were
cleared away, and the entertainment wound up with the usual dance. And
thus did we each endeavour to do our share of pleasant labour for the
benefit of the common school.
The reading-room of the Mechanics' Institute is always a source of
entertainment when nothing else offers. The room is small but
convenient, and it contains a fair collection of books. The Telegraph
Office, the Post Office, Council Chamber, and Mechanics' Institute,
all occupy one building,--not a very extensive one,--being only a
one-storied wooden erection. One of the chief attractions of the
reading-room is a collection of Colonial papers, with 'Punch,' 'The
Illustrated News,' and the 'Irish Nation.' On Saturday nights, when
the diggers wash up and come into town, the room is always well filled
with readers. The members of the Committee are also very active in
getting up entertainments and popular readings; and, in short, the
Mechanics' Institute may be regarded as one of the most civilising
institutions in the place.
But my time in Majorca was drawing to an end. One of the last public
events in which I took part was attending the funeral of our town
clerk, the first funeral I have ever had occasion to be present at. A
long procession followed his remains to the cemetery. Almost all the
men in the township attended, for the deceased was highly respected.
The service was very solemn, held under the bright, clear, blue
Australian sky. Poor old man! I knew him well. I had seen him so short
a time ago in the hospital, where, three hours before he died, he gave
me his blessing. He was then lying flushed, and in great pain. All
that is over now. "Dust to dust, and ashes to ashes." The earth
sounded as it fell upon his coffin; and now the good man sleeps in
peace, leaving a blessed memory behind him.
* * * * *
I was now under orders for home! My health was completely
re-established. I might have remained, and perhaps succeeded in the
colony. As it was, I carried with me the best wishes of my employers.
But I had no desire to pursue the career of bank-clerk further. I was
learning but little, and had my own proper business to pursue. So I
made arrangements for leaving Australia. Enough money had been
remitted me from England, to enable me to return direct by first-class
ship, leaving me free to choose my own route. As I might never have
another opportunity of seeing that great new country the United States
of America, the question occurred, whether I might not be able to
proceed up the Pacific to San Francisco, _via_ Honolulu, and cross
America by the Atlantic and Pacific Railway. On inquiry, I found it
would be practicable, but not by first-class. So I resolved to rough
it a little, and proceed by that route second class, for which purpose
my funds would be sufficient. I accordingly took my final leave of
Majorca early in December--just as summer was reaching its height; and
after spending three more pleasant weeks with my hospitable and kind
friends in Melbourne, took my passage in the steamer for Sydney, and
set sail the day after Christmas.
* * * * *
On looking over what I have above written about my life in Victoria, I
feel how utterly inadequate it is to give the reader an idea of the
country as a whole. All that I have done has merely been to write down
my first impressions, unpremeditatedly and faithfully, of what I saw,
and what I felt and did while there. Such a short residence in the
colony, and such a limited experience as mine was, could not have
enabled me--no matter what my faculty of observation, which is but
moderate--to convey any adequate idea of the magnitude of the colony
or its resources. To pretend to write an account of Victoria and
Victorian life from the little I saw, were as absurd as it would be
for a native-born Victorian, sixteen years old, to come over to
England, live two years in a small country town, and then write a book
of his travels, headed "England." And yet this is the way in which the
Victorians complain, and with justice, that they are treated by
English writers. Some eminent man arrives in the colony, spends a few
weeks in it, perhaps rushes through it by railway, and hastens home to
publish some contemptuous account of the people whom he does not
really know, or some hasty if not fallacious description of the
country which he has not really seen. I am sure that, however crude my
description may be, Victorians will not be offended with what I have
said of themselves and their noble colony; for, small though the
sphere of my observation was, they will see that I have written merely
to the extent of my knowledge, and have related, as faithfully as I
was able, the circumstances that came within the range of my own
admittedly limited, but actual experience of colonial life.
[Illustration: SYDNEY, PORT JACKSON.]