PROVISIONS GONE--CROSS THE BLUE RIDGE--SECURING FOOD--GOING THROUGH
BIG LICK--RAIN AND DARKNESS--WE ARE COMPELLED TO SEEK SHELTER--LYING
OVER--THE TOBACCO--ITS OWNER--MORE FOOD LAID IN--UP THE VALLEY--STRIKE
FOR THE ALLEGHANIES--DIFFICULT TRAVELING--ROUGH COUNTRY--WE REACH A
STREAM--TOO WEARY TO FORD--FALL BACK TO HIDE--MAKING OUR BED--FALL
ASLEEP.
Having parted with Taylor, our travels were resumed through the later
hours of the night. Once or twice in traveling the distance of four, or
four and a half miles, we almost concluded to return to him, but feared
disaster might come upon us if we turned back. It soon became evident
that daybreak was at hand, but we proceeded a mile farther before
turning into the woods. The sun was just rising when we began making
our bed, for the 27th of February, in a place surrounded by woods and
brush. On lying down we fell asleep. We awoke about the middle of the
afternoon. Shortly after arousing from our slumbers, we eat the last
of our mush. A little salt was all we had left of the supplies we had
received from our negro friends in Henry county. When, where, and how
our next supply of food should be secured we did not know. We judged we
should cross the mountain during the approaching night, and determined
to give ourselves no concern on the score of rations until the valley
on the other side was reached.
The sad event of the previous night formed the subject of our
conversation for the evening. "It wouldn't surprise me a bit," said
Wood, "if Taylor should beat us to the lines yet."
"He may," said Trippe, "if he lives through the first night or two,
does well, and is lucky enough to secure the services of a good guide
to take him through by the short cuts."
"Our lines will be down this way some of these days," said Smith.
"The only difficulty with Taylor," remarked Trippe, "will be in
avoiding Rebel citizens and finding a true Union friend to care for him
a few days."
"He must have nothing to do with any body but a negro," said
Sutherland, "or he's a goner." "Boys," he continued, "supposing it
should become necessary for us to separate into two squads, how'll we
divide?"
"Draw cuts," answered Wood.
"If it should become necessary for us to separate," remarked Trippe,
"it will most likely be under such circumstances as will forbid drawing
cuts."
"Yes, boys," answered Wood, "we'll have to draw cuts now, and have the
thing understood."
Five small sticks were accordingly prepared. They were of two different
lengths. It being understood how the division should stand, we drew
cuts. It was decided that Smith, Wood, and Sutherland should go in one
direction, while Trippe and I should go in another. We determined,
however, never to separate unless no other alternative would answer,
and to push on and endeavor to reach our lines together.
At sunset we began arranging our things for journeying. As soon as it
was dark we sought the road, and on reaching it we heard voices. We
retired a few paces into the bushes and waited until a half dozen or
more persons, mostly if not all colored, had passed by. "Now, boys,"
whispered Wood, as the women and children were passing, "here is a
good chance to get something to eat." But we had decided to cross
the mountains before looking after food, and allowed the opportunity
to pass. We then set out on our ninth night of travel, and had gone
but little more than a mile when we came to a considerable branch.
We crossed it with but little trouble, and soon after passed near a
house on the road whose occupants had not retired for the night. We
got by the house without attracting attention, or at least without
exciting curiosity. On following the road a little further, we found
it commenced its winding ascent of the mountain, passing through a
gap near the boundary line between Franklin and Bedford counties, Va.
We had heard before leaving prison that the Blue Ridge Mountains were
infested with bush-whackers. We had a wholesome dread of these, and
advanced cautiously up the road, hoping, if there were any, we should
hear or see them before they should hear or see us.
In little more than an hour's time we reached the highest point in
the gap, over which the road passed. We met with no one to dispute
our progress, and the descent of the western slope was immediately
commenced. We had followed the road but a short distance down the
mountain-side, when, on making a turn in the road, we saw a light
ahead, apparently about one hundred yards distant from us. Judging it
to be the light of a torch, or small fire, we halted, and, on doing so,
we heard voices engaged in conversation. Trippe at once proposed going
ahead alone a few yards to see what might be seen. We consented, and he
did so. A few minutes of intense anxiety to us passed, as we imagined
the reports concerning bush-whackers were about to be verified. Before
Trippe returned we heard a door shut, the fire or light at the same
time disappearing. We then knew there was a house, or hut of some kind,
near the road, not far from us; but of the number and character of its
occupants we were not so well informed.
On coming back to us Trippe reported a house down there, and the
light we had seen was the light of a fire in the house. Trippe said,
further, that some one was just leaving the house, and, as soon as that
person had started off down the road, the conversation ceased, and the
door of the house was closed. We waited a few minutes for the folks in
the house to get to sleep, and for the person on the road ahead of us
to get out of our way, when we again started forward. On coming to the
house we found it a very small one, situated within a few steps of the
road. Passing it without discovery, we slowly walked on, and in due
time reached the valley below.
Near the foot or base of the ridge was what appeared to be a
considerable stream of water; but on reaching it we found it to be
more wide than deep. We went a short distance down stream and found
four foot logs, from sixteen to twenty feet long, extending across
the stream. On these we crossed, and on reaching the opposite side we
halted for awhile to rest before proceeding to the road.
"If we only had some meat and bread," said Smith, "now would be a good
time to eat it."
"This would be a good place, too," added Sutherland, "as water is
handy."
"I guess we wouldn't be particular as to the place," observed Smith,
"if we only had something to eat."
Being reminded of the fact that we were out of rations we resolved
to try our luck at the first house that came in our way. We were not
long in reaching one, probably not more than half an hour. As we had
crossed the mountain without difficulty; as we felt glad we had not
met with guerrillas--felt considerably hungry, and were, withal,
much emboldened, we were not overcautious in our movements. Each of
our party of five entered the yard through the gate in front, and on
reaching the house--an old two-story frame house, unpainted--we rapped
violently at the front door. There was no answer from within. We called
and rapped repeatedly, but with the same results. We then passed around
the house to its south side, where we found another door. Sutherland
knocked loudly on it, but no response came. He then put his mouth to
the string-hole and asked, "Is any body at home?"
A man inside answered, in a tone of voice indicating fright, "I guess
there's somebody about."
"Why don't you get up, then?" asked Sutherland. "Nobody's going to hurt
you."
"What do you want?" inquired the man.
"We want something to eat, and want you to get up and set about getting
it forthwith," said Sutherland. He refused to even get out of bed,
whereupon Sutherland demanded, "Shall we burst your door down?" and
Wood added, "and come in and burst your noggin?"
The man said, "That rests with you," and inquired, "Who are you, and
where are you going?"
"We are soldiers going to Rocky Mount Court-House," Sutherland answered.
"Go on over the mountain, and you will be fed in the morning," returned
the man.
Preferring to risk our chances at the next house to doing any very rash
or violent acts, we left this one, telling the man he showed a very
poor quality of patriotism.
"If it was any other time, if it twas daylight, I might do something
for you."
"We don't have to stand picket in the night-time; we don't have to
march, skirmish, and frequently fight in the night-time, I suppose?"
retorted Sutherland, in a very unamiable voice.
"And skedaddle in the night-time from such rusty Butternuts as you
are," added Smith, in a tone just loud enough not to be heard by the
man, as we were withdrawing from the yard.
We passed out of the yard through the gate to the road as quickly as
we could, intending to hurry on our way. As Sutherland closed the gate
he threatened the man with, "We shall report you when we get to Rocky
Mount, mark that."
On starting forward on the road Wood observed, "We commenced too heavy
on the gentleman: we got him so badly scared he didn't know what to do,
or how to do it."
We kept up our conversation, dwelling chiefly on the causes, real and
supposed, of our failure in procuring food, and of the method to be
resorted to in supplying our necessities. It was agreed that Wood and
I should try our hands at the next house. It was after midnight, and
should we not reach the next house soon we decided not to disturb its
inmates, as we must have time to get out of reach after so doing before
hiding for the day.
In a few moments we halted in front of a house on the south of the
road at a distance of sixty or seventy yards from it. Wood and I
entered the yard and approached a door in the one-story part of the
house, supposing the darkies slept there. On knocking slightly at
the door, and hearing no answer, we jerked the latch string once or
twice. A voice inside--which was undoubtedly that of an elderly white
person--remonstrated strongly against being disturbed at so late an
hour. Wood seeing the smoke-house a few steps to his left, went to
examine it, and proceeded from thence to the yard south of the house.
At the same time I stepped upon the porch in front of the two-story
part of the house, and walked on it until I discovered a pair of steps
or stairs. On going up the steps I found the porch had a second story
also. Just at the top of the steps was a doorway to the second story of
the main building. I found the door fastened, when I called out, asking
if any one was inside. A voice, plainly that of a negro, answered there
was. I told him to get up, and come out doors, as there were some folks
at the road who would like very much to see him. The negro declined,
saying, "You can't come dat game on dis chile: Ise not coming out dar."
"Get out of bed and come to the string hole," said I, "I want to speak
to you." He did so, when I said, "Put your ear to the string-hole."
He complied; and in a loud, distinct whisper, I pronounced the word
"Yankees." As soon as the negro could draw on his clothing, the bar of
the door came down and he and I descended the steps into the yard.
On seeing us, Wood approached, saying to the negro, "Where did you come
from?"
"Ise from Knoxville," was the answer.
"But just now, where did you come from just now?" asked Wood.
"From up in the loft," was the negro's reply.
"Come out to the road, old fellow," said I, "there's some more Yankees
out there."
"Lord, massa! golly! dat so?" ejaculated the astonished negro.
We then went to the road accompanied by the negro. On rejoining Trippe,
Smith, and Sutherland, at the point where we had left them, the last
named, on seeing the negro, remarked, "You don't expect us to eat that
fellow, do you?"
We lost no time in telling the negro what was wanting; that we were
hungry and had no provisions. The negro said the cellar and smoke-house
were locked, and the old master had the keys. We asked him how soon he
could get something for us to eat. He replied, "In the mornin', 'fore
massa and mistress gits up."
"How about the keys; don't the whites get up and unlock?"
"No, sah; we gits de keys, onfastens, and gits breakfast 'fore de white
folks gits out o' bed," replied the negro.
On ascertaining beyond doubt that provisions would be furnished us in
the morning, we had the negro conduct us to a safe hiding-place for
the day, which was near at hand. He took us to a secure retreat in
the midst of a large grove of heavy oak timber situated about a mile
from the house, on the north of the road. In all directions from our
hiding-place for the day--Sunday, February 28th--were open fields.
The woods or grove we were in covered three or four hundred acres of
land. Our camp for the day was close to a rivulet, and was immediately
surrounded by tall dead grass; and a little further from us were
numerous small trees and bushes. The negro told us he would fetch us
breakfast by ten o'clock, and then hurried home.
It was an hour or more before day when we made our usual preparations
for sleep. Soon after lying down we were lost in slumber. Near nine
o'clock, A. M., we awoke from our slumbers and got up and washed our
faces at the rivulet. Our toilet completed, we had not long to wait for
the appearance of our negro friend, with a small basket of eatables, a
pitcher of milk, and a mug of molasses. We fared sumptuously on wheat
cakes, fried bacon, potatoes, molasses, and milk. When we had finished
our meal the negro took the molasses and milk pitchers in his basket
and went homeward. While eating we learned from the negro that we were
in Roanoke county, and that the nearest town on the road we expected
to travel was Big Lick, a station on the East Tennessee and Virginia
Railroad.
Shortly after noon the negro came out and talked quite a while with
us. He wished to know when we would have another meal brought out. We
expressed our willingness to receive another meal at any time before
sunset. We asked the negro how much provision he could furnish us to
carry with us. He replied that he had not a good chance in day-time to
get at the meat, flour, and potatoes, without being seen by his master
or mistress, and at night he had no chance at all to secure any thing,
as the cellar and smoke-house were always locked at dark by the whites,
who kept the keys until morning.
The man on whose provision we were subsisting was named Schooler, or
Schuyler. Being an original secessionist, he left Knoxville, Tennessee,
and settled in Roanoke county, Virginia, where he would be less
troubled with Federal troops. The negro had also lived in Knoxville,
and had before seen Yankee soldiers. When he left us he went home, and
soon returned with another supply of food for our present consumption.
While we were eating, the negro informed us that Schooler, his master,
had seen the man at whose house we had attempted to get rations on the
previous night. The man told Schooler of the demonstrations we had made
at his house before leaving it to go on over the mountain. Schooler in
turn told the man that he, too, had been interrupted during the night,
but the disturbers of his sleep had done no harm, and gone on, he knew
not where.
Our supper finished, we had an understanding with the negro as to the
place where we should receive the corn and meat. He then left us, and
we rolled up our blankets and made other needful preparations for our
tenth night's travel. Just at dark we started for the point designated
to receive what provisions our negro host could provide for us. As we
found him there with the corn and meat, we were not long delayed. We
were told it was seven miles to Big Lick, and that Salem Court-House
was nine miles west of that place. I gave the negro one of my blouses
as a slight compensation for his services to us, and as a token of
remembrance. We thanked the negro heartily for befriending us in
the hour of need, and then put the corn, which was shelled, in our
haversacks, and the meat in our pillow-slip, and started for the road,
accompanied that far by the negro.
On reaching the road we bade our negro friend farewell and left him.
We found the road better than we expected, and pushed forward rapidly,
hoping to get around Big Lick by midnight. We had thought of bearing
to our right and passing east of the place. As soon as we thought we
had gone six miles we saw a few small houses not far ahead of us, and
concluded to pass them before commencing our circuit around the town.
When we were just opposite the first house, Wood supposed it to be
the domicile of a negro family, and went to the door, opened it, and
asked how far it was to Big Lick. "You are there now," was the answer
given. Closing the door without asking any more questions, Wood hastily
rejoined us at the road.
On finding we were in town we pushed on through it, walking silently
and briskly. Near the railroad depot we halted, and after consulting
briefly concluded to leave the road, so as to elude pursuers, fearing
the man we had inquired of might be a white Rebel, and might collect
a party to look after us in the morning. After leaving the road we
reached in a few minutes' time the railroad bridge. We passed under
the bridge, walking partly in the waters of the little stream which
it spanned until we gained the woods north of the railroad. We then
traveled due northward until the sky became cloudy, when it grew much
darker, and we found great difficulty in making our way through strange
woods, with no road to guide us.
Before morning it began raining, and the night became black and dismal
in its last hours. We could scarcely proceed, but we kept on the move.
Just at daylight we came to a road running east and west. It seemed to
be a very public one. As it was raining hard we thought we should not
be seen, and we crossed the road and pushed on northward something more
than a mile, when we halted in the midst of a considerable forest of
pines. Through this forest was a string of rail-fence, and as it was
raining hard, so that we could not make our bed down on the ground, we
placed rails across from one panel to another, on which we sat with our
coats and blankets disposed about us so as to shed the water off as
much as possible. In this manner we occupied two corners of the fence;
three of us in one corner and two in the other.
Near noon we were compelled by the severity of the storm to seek
shelter. We started and kept close to the fence on its north side,
going in an easterly direction. In a few minutes we came to another
fence, running north through open fields. We changed our course, and
followed it until we came to a branch running in a south-east course.
As the ground was much lower near the branch we could follow it and
at the same time be screened from view. Soon we came in sight of a
lone building to our left a short distance, in the edge of the woods.
We went directly to it, and found it to be a tobacco-house. In it we
found shelter from the rain, as the roof was good. We then took off our
coats and blankets, and wrung the water from them. As there was a lot
of corn-blades tied in bundles stacked in one corner of the room, we
soon had a good resting-place. A small lot of tobacco leaves, hanging
above our heads, soon attracted our attention, when the following
conversation took place:
"There's some tobacco," said Smith. "I'll bet there will be somebody
out here before night to look at it."
"Not while it rains this way," said Trippe.
"Well, let them come," said Wood, "it belongs to nobody but a darkie,
any how."
"And when he comes out here we'll only have him to furnish us with more
rations," said Sutherland.
"I'm only afraid he won't come," added Trippe.
There was no floor in the tobacco-house, and we cleared the corn-blades
and straw from the center and built a fire. For fuel we used tobacco
sticks, of which there was a large quantity piled up in a corner of
the building. After burning enough sticks to make sufficient coals
and ashes for the purpose, we went to parching corn. This we did by
scattering the corn near the fire and raking hot ashes and coals over
it. When the corn was parched sufficiently, we raked it from the ashes
with small sticks. After eating all we wished of parched corn and
broiled meat, we parched a lot of corn for future use.
The rain continued falling, and the day was far spent, when we came to
the conclusion we should be compelled to lie over for the approaching
night--February 29th. At dark we stretched our blankets on sticks
around the fire, for the twofold purpose of drying them and concealing
the fire. Soon we were obliged to allow the fire to go down, as its
light shone against the roof and through the cracks of the building
between the logs. We had seen but one house during the evening from
where we were, and that was away some distance to the north of us. But
for fear somebody would be passing, and see the light of our fire, and
thus discover us, and publish the fact of our presence in the vicinity,
we put it out entirely. Becoming reconciled to the necessity of
stopping over for the night and following day, we thought we would make
the best of it, and rest, and recuperate as much as possible in that
time. So, taking time and pains, and a goodly quantity of corn-blades,
we made us a good bed. A roof over our heads and the pelting rain-storm
without were conducive to sleep, and the night was passed in quiet and
repose.
We waked up shortly after daylight in the morning, but did not get
out of bed until about eight o'clock, A. M. The rain had ceased, but
clouds still overspread the sky, causing us to feel doubtful about
getting off even that night. We went out one at a time to the pools
of water, and washed our hands and faces. Soon after we built a fire
and began parching corn, and broiling meat for breakfast and dinner.
While thus engaged, Sutherland, looking through a crack between logs,
espied an old negro approaching. As he was alone he gave us no concern,
and we were not averse to his coming. Approaching nearer and nearer
the building, the old negro finally came upon our trail and noticed
our tracks. He followed them a few steps, when, discovering they led
to the tobacco-house, he came to a halt. He watched the house closely
for a moment or two, when hearing or seeing us, he turned to go back.
Sutherland opened the door and said, "Hullo, old man! that'll never do;
come in here, we'll not hurt you."
The old man turned about, and after further entreaty approached the
house and entered it. He had come out to examine his tobacco. He was
well stricken in years, being ninety years of age, having children,
grandchildren, and great grandchildren. On account of his age he was
slow of speech and comprehension. We had trouble in getting him to
understand who and what we were, and the situation in which we were
placed. He did not seem, at first, to correctly understand the meaning
of the term Yankee, but soon came to it, inquiring, "Is you uns some of
them fellers that's penned up in the 'backer-houses in Richmond?" We
answered that we were. We found it necessary to impress on his mind the
necessity of keeping secret from the whites the fact of our presence
in the country. Our need of procuring provisions from time to time was
also explained to the old man. We urged the old man to either bring
or send us some meat of some kind, if nothing else, and to have it at
the tobacco-house by sunset. He promised to do so, and shortly after
examining and arranging his tobacco, he went slowly on his way home.
We finished our breakfast, and continued parching corn for awhile. A
little before noon we laid-ourselves down, and slept until about three
o'clock in the evening.
On getting up we finished parching corn, and then all the provisions
we had with us were ready for eating. When we first got up the sky was
partially clear, and by sunset it was cloudless. Just after sunset
the old negro arrived with some six or eight pounds of meat, mostly
boiled beef, the remainder being a small piece of side meat. A couple
of corn-dodgers were also furnished us, which we set apart for our
midnight meal. Having got our baggage, quartermaster and commissary
stores, ready for the trip, we expressed our obligations to the aged
negro who had befriended us, and bade him good-by. He then started
home, and soon after we set out on our eleventh night's journey, March
1, 1864.
Finding the ground soft and well saturated with water, we thought we
should do well if we trudged through eight or ten miles that night.
On reaching the road, which had been pointed out to us by the negro,
we found the walking much better than we expected, as the water
could not so easily penetrate its hard surface. In a short time we
passed the house where lived the owner of the plantation to which the
tobacco-house in which we had been sheltering belonged. The house was
near the road, and the lights in it were burning brightly. While we
were passing the house the dogs began a lively barking, and kept it up
until we had gone some distance, and crossed a creek, when we heard no
more of them. Near midnight we halted at the road side amid a cluster
of small trees, and eat some beef and corn-bread.
We soon resumed our travels. As we could not walk very rapidly, owing
to the condition of the road, we put in the whole time until day-break,
so that we could have it to say that we were at least eight or ten
miles nearer our goal than when setting out. The road we were traveling
bore northward in its general direction, but as the country on either
side was covered with unfenced woods, it frequently deviated from its
general course. At length day-break came, and we went to the left of
the road in search of a secure hiding-place for the day, March 2, 1864.
The distance gone over during the night had not been more than eleven
miles, or twelve at the furthest, but we were that distance further
north, which was a gratifying feature of the night's journey. The
ground being yet very damp, we were compelled to seek an open space in
which to make our bed, and a quantity of brush and leaves on which to
make it, so that our bedding should not get damp or muddy. A suitable
hiding-place having been found, we collected leaves and brush from the
adjacent woods, and made our bed on them, and retired to sleep for the
day. We went about a mile from the road before locating our camp. It
was further than may have been necessary, as the road was not a very
public one, judging from appearances, and the country was very sparsely
settled.
Some time in the evening we awoke and got up, finding the sky clear,
and the weather mild for the time of year. We found we had not stopped
convenient to water, but on looking around a little we found water not
far off sufficient for our needs. As we had no use for fire we built
none, but made a meal on parched corn and beef, and quietly awaited
the approach of night. The evening was spent in conversation, dwelling
chiefly on our trip, past and prospective. We talked of things that
had taken place, which, if we had them to do over again, we should do
differently; of some fork of the road or cross-road, where, if we were
only there again, we would take a different course. Sometimes we would
imagine certain things to happen us, and decide in our minds what we
should do, should the event actually transpire. Our minds seemed always
occupied, either with thoughts and reflections on the journey, so far
as completed, or with plans and expedients for the journey yet before
us.
At dark our luggage was fitted up in readiness for starting out on the
twelfth night of our travels, being the thirteenth night out. In a half
hour's time we were on the road, wending our way northward. We found
the road had improved under the day's sunshine, and we were enabled to
make better progress than we had made on the previous night. On coming
to a cross-road near midnight we stopped a few minutes to eat a little
and consult as to the course to take, north or west. It was evident
that, no matter which course we took, we should soon reach the first
ranges of the Alleghany Mountains. As we had previously determined
to travel in day-time across the ridges, gorges, valleys, and barren
wastes of those mountains, we thought we would turn west and reverse,
as soon as possible, the order of our times of sleep and travel,
sleeping at night and traveling in day-time. We accordingly turned our
faces to the west. By so doing we did not reach the mountains as soon
as we should have done had we continued in the northward course.
We spent another night and day, March 3, 1864, in the valley between
the Blue Ridge and Alleghany Mountains. Nothing deserving of particular
notice transpired during that day. An hour or more before day, on the
early morning of March 4th, we came to a considerable stream, washing
the base of one of the principal ridges of the Alleghanies. We had
been traveling the greater part of the night over a very rough and
hilly road, and were getting tired and sleepy. As we expected to begin
traveling in day-time over the mountains on the day then approaching,
in accordance with our previous programme, we determined not to cross
the stream that night, or morning rather, and followed the road back
a short distance to where the woods bordered it on the south. We then
left the road and entered the woods, going in a south-east course a
little more than a half mile. In a spot surrounded by small trees and
bushes, where the surface of the ground was covered with rock large and
small, we halted for the day, March 4th. We cleared the rocks from a
small space, sufficiently large for our bed. We then made it and went
to rest for a few hours.