LAST VISIT TO THE STRAITS
[Sidenote: 1869. Singapore, Nov. 7.]
It was no small pleasure to be allowed another visit, although a
farewell one, to the Straits Settlements. Just after sunset, as the P.
and O. _Salsette_ entered New Harbour, a larger ship than usual, loomed
through the mist--the _Rodney_ on her way home. In less than half an
hour I was at dinner with Algie Heneage. They had, as might have been
expected, a long and tedious passage down, but adhered to the sapient
instructions issued by the Admiralty, not to use steam unless in case
of danger. The extra time and pay of the crew would be more than
expense of fuel.
Both Governor and Judge had made preparations to receive us, and
had sent their carriages. It was arranged, as the steamer would go
alongside the P. and O. wharf early to-morrow, we should land there
more conveniently, when the wife and children should go to Sir Benson
and Lady Maxwell, and I to Sir Harry and Lady Ord.
[Sidenote: Nov. 8.]
As the _Salsette_ hauled alongside the coaling pier, I saw my old
friend, W. H. Read. He was one of a deputation who had come to invite
me, on the part of the community, to a luncheon on the morrow. Large
dinner at Government House--a palace. Whampoa there. He gave me a pair
of cassowaries to add to the museum on board _Rodney_, also some pigs
to establish a breed at Bishopstoke!
[Sidenote: Nov. 9.]
Had intended to have paid a visit to the _Rodney_, but continued rain
set in, which lasted till it was time to start for the entertainment,
which took place in the P. and O. Office building. His Excellency
kindly drove me there. The room was prettily fitted with flags
and flowers, while on the walls were the names in large letters,
formed with flowers, of the ships I had served in on the station.
Beginning with _Magicienne_, in which I was a Lieutenant, there came
in succession, _Dido_, _Mæander_, _Raleigh_, finishing with the old
_Rodney_ (now without flag flying). The chair was occupied by my old
friend W. H. Read, with Sir Benson Maxwell, the Chief Justice, on his
left. The tables were full; the guest of the day received with cheers!
The chairman came at once to the toast which had brought them together,
and went into a long detail of the ships in which I had served and
commanded on this station, beginning with _Magicienne_. A laugh was
raised when he alluded to the Tumongong of Muar offering me the hand of
his daughter. “Then,” Read said, “there was the _Dido_. I remember her
well, with her taunt spars, sky-sail poles, flying kites, and graceful
hull, dashing about the station in every direction, and always in for
a fight when one was to be had.--The _Mæander_, with Sir James Brooke;
his merits recognised, the K.C.B. installation took place here. The
_Raleigh_, in which fifty-gun frigate he sailed into this beautiful
harbour from the westward to show his confidence in its safety, and
the wisdom of the P. and O. in taking his advice when he told them of
its existence in 1849.--Fatshan, ‘the smartest cutting-out affair of
modern times.’ Last comes the _Rodney_, of which vessel I can only say
we have seen too little; but we endorse the verdicts of Hong Kong and
Yokohama: he never undertook what he did not carry out, and a better
passport to posterity after such a stirring life no man need possess.”
Read concluded his speech by asking them to drink “Long life and
prosperity to the gallant Admiral, with three times three--and don’t be
afraid of bringing the roof down!”
Got through the returning of thanks with what composure I could muster
before so many good old friends. Sir Benson Maxwell made a kind speech
about the wife and children, which was warmly received, and to which I
did my best to respond. The meeting, which was a great success, broke
up only in time to go on board the steamer. My farewell cheer was
from the last of that noble class of ships, the _Rodney_. Friends had
collected on the P. and O. wharf to give us “one cheer more.”
[Sidenote: Penang, Nov. 11.]
At 8 A.M. we anchored off Penang, my kind old friend Lewis the first
on board to welcome me; also a letter from Colonel Anson inviting us
to pass the few hours of our stay with him. The steamer remaining for
six hours, we had only time to make a hurried call on the Lewises
before going on board. Old Jack Rodyk on the pier to see me off. Adieu,
Penang; and adieu for ever the Straits and China!
[Sidenote: Galle, Nov. 17.]
Came to before breakfast in what is called Galle Harbour, but an open
and dangerous anchorage. Money has been voted to build a breakwater. We
found no fewer than five of the P. and O. steamers, the _Surat_ being
told off to take the passengers to Suez. _Surat_ the same I came out
in near three years ago, but my old friend Dunn no longer in command,
having lodged his ship on a reef in the Red Sea, from which she had a
narrow escape.
Keppel Garnier went at once on board the _Surat_ to see about berths,
while Risk went on shore to see if we could not have possession of
what is called “Queen’s House,” the original residence of the Dutch
Governors, who thoroughly understood comfort. It was noon before he
returned, it having been necessary to telegraph to the Governor,
Sir Hercules Robinson, at Colombo, for permission; the reply being,
“Certainly, if not occupied by Lady Napier.” Lady Napier was on her way
to join her husband in Calcutta, and sailed shortly after our arrival
in the harbour. Our steamer was to start again at 5 P.M. for Suez, but
it was a pleasant change for the children and ourselves, if only for a
few hours.
[Illustration: _Jack Rodyk._]
We had no sooner taken possession than the house was inundated with
venders of all sorts--curios, inlaid workboxes, and desks of antique
fashion, carved elephants in ebony and ivory, tortoise-shell combs,
porcupine quills, walking sticks, precious stones by a dirty native,
who called himself “Stony Merchant,” whose goods we were informed were
all manufactured in Birmingham.
Of course the children wanted everything. Colin got the model of a
native boat, May an ebony elephant. I treated myself to a pair of ivory
ones, which were removed from the sitting-room table while we were at
dinner, most probably by the man to whom I had paid fifteen shillings
for them. We enjoyed a fresh-water bath. In the adjoining room was an
enormous bed, big enough not only for the Dutch Governors of former
days, but Vrouws and families! Among the callers was Wodehouse of the
Civil Service, a nice fellow, agreeable as most of that numerous family
are. The harbour-master conducted us on board the Government boat.
It was dark, but it did not require much light to find that the deck
was covered with some thirty or forty children, varying from the age of
six downwards.
[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]
Coaled at Aden.
[Sidenote: Suez, Dec. 3.]
Suez.--The _Surat_ was the first of the P. and O. steamers that landed
her passengers alongside the wharf close to the new dock. A train took
us to the hotel, where we found the great traveller, Sir Samuel, with
Lady, Baker; they had lately been at Quidenham. We had a walk and talk
with them.
[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]
The train took us off at 8 P.M. without giving us a chance of seeing
anything of the canal or country. After fourteen hours’ suffering we
got out of the train and embarked in a small steamer close by, which
conveyed us to Marseilles. Hence across France and so home.