CLOSE OF CHINA COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1869. Yedo, Sept. 1.]
Here I am in the Mikado’s summer palace at Yedo. Invited by H.R.H. the
Duke of Edinburgh, at whose disposal this delightful residence was
placed but yesterday. Proceedings have first to be recorded. The day
commenced with heavy rain, which continued, but the Duke had decided on
hoisting the royal standard at 8 A.M., landing in state, and holding
a levée for Britishers and Foreign Ministers at the Legation at 11.
Having previously gone on board and been saluted by all the men-of-war
present at 10.30, we left the _Galatea_ in the Prince’s barge. Yards
manned and another royal salute.
H.R.H. was received on landing by a guard from the 10th regiment,
another of French marines, while the road was lined up to the Legation
by the 10th and Japs together: contrast good. The Prince was cheered
from the yards of his own ship on leaving, which was repeated by such
ships as he passed in his way. Had the weather been anything but rainy,
the whole thing would have had a grand effect. After the levée we had
luncheon at the Legation, then the Prince, putting on shooting jacket
and _Rodney_ hat, proposed a walk in Curio Street. H.R.H. having
visited my wife, we mounted ponies and had a very fair inspection;
many things were selected and put aside for future bargainings.
[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]
I was on board _Galatea_ by 9 A.M. At 10 we started in steam launch
for Kanagawa, where Parkes had sent his carriages and mounted escort.
In the first were H.R.H., Parkes, myself, and Mitford (latter told
off expressly for attendance on the Prince); the other brought Elliot
Yorke, Haig, and Adams.
Weather fine, journey agreeable, the only _contretemps_ being the
springs of our vehicle breaking down and causing us twice to alight for
repairs; but the Japanese roads, however good they may have been, are
not quite prepared for the wheel traffic now existing between Yedo and
Yokohama. We were preceded the whole way by a mounted escort of Japs,
while innumerable small guards turned out and presented arms after
their own demi-French instruction.
At the Palace the Duke was received by a Prince, and the party
appointed by the Japanese Government to attend His Royal Highness. No
place could have been better adapted. Suites of apartments completely
furnished in European style, while the walls were covered with
curiously painted Japanese paper. A guard of twenty-five marines had
arrived before us. Our Royal Marine guard was confronted by a similar
number of Japs, who formerly belonged to the Tycoon, and had been well
drilled by the French. In the Prince’s sitting-room was a magnificent
bronze vase covered with beautifully executed birds, dragons, etc.,
one of the presents from the Mikado. After luncheon Minwaji-no-Mia, a
Prince of the Royal blood, paid a visit. Not much to be done in the
afternoon. The Legation retired to their respective houses. We strolled
through the pretty, well-kept grounds, made to look as little formal
and like nature as possible. The Prince is showing me every kindness
and consideration, selecting a room next that occupied by himself,
consulting me as to costume for dinner. And on my suggesting round
jackets as the coolest, he appeared in one, with gold lace trousers,
which appeared to be the mess dress of _Galatea_. Dinner quiet, and
good coffee, the best I have tasted. The Prince chatted with me long
after dinner, and seemed really anxious for advice as to his future
movements, hoping I would give him concise orders while within the
limits of the station, so I sent a despatch for Risk and Dawson that we
might arrange the same.
I waited an opportunity to ask His Royal Highness about his narrow
escape at Sydney; he kindly showed me the wound at the right of the
spine--a hole into which I could thrust the end of my little finger.
Among the things sent yesterday were ten magnificent volumes of about
14 ins. square by 4 ins. deep, containing coloured pictures--in fact, a
complete history of Japan, a thing I believe no money could purchase.
In front of the Prince’s window were large China bowls containing
beautiful broad-tailed specimens of goldfish. Other China bowls, ranged
on stands, contained hundreds of flowers, dwarfed trees, etc., all of
which His Royal Highness was to consider his own.
[Sidenote: Palace of the Mikado, Japan, Sept. 3.]
It rained all yesterday. In the afternoon we managed to get over to a
covered-in place within the Palace grounds to see a combat of swords
and spears. Two at a time appeared on the platform; the swords were of
bamboo. The practice was interesting enough; heavy blows and thrusts
were exchanged. An umpire decided when the fatal blow or thrust had
been delivered. The head was protected by helmet and steel masks.
Armour on the left side, as far down as the waist.
After bowing to the audience, the combatants saluted one another: on
the same principle, I suppose, as our antagonists in the prize-ring
shake hands before punching one another’s heads. When the supposed
fatal blow was given, the vanquished walked off, while the victor
uncovered his head and “kow towed” to H.R.H. The combats with long
spears were conducted on same principle. The men were selected from the
Japanese guard.
The Minister said that had he educated the warriors of different
Daimios they would be sure to fight it out afterwards to the death
if different chiefs’ followers met. Risk came up in steam launch to
arrange a revised route for _Galatea_, she being three weeks behind
time. Having duly considered the whole, and what Kellett might have
had to say had he not been pitched on his head before leaving England,
which delayed his arrival, we were of opinion that I should give up the
San Francisco route, accompany the Prince to Peking, meet my successor
at Hong Kong or Singapore, and telegraph to the Board accordingly.
The forenoon continued rainy. After luncheon a man of Mitford’s came
with curios--apparently a bundle of rubbish; there were, however, two
swords, which Mitford pronounced to be excellent because the owner
had names written, which he pronounced to be certificates of their
manufacture by an extinct artist. The Prince paid some £80, and to my
mind there is no proof that he was not taken in, and Mitford too.
[Sidenote: Yedo.]
We rode, a largish party, to see the tombs of the Tycoons, situated in
the midst of a well-wooded garden or park. The most beautiful temples
and elaborate carvings of any I have seen. We were allowed to inspect
everything, being in company of His Royal Highness.
On reaching home we found mats before the door and preparations for
jugglers: wonderfully clever; and here, as in other parts of the world,
there was music, such as it is, with the usual buffoon or clown.
To-morrow we are to have a procession and the Prince’s visit to the
Mikado, which we look forward to as rather a bore.
[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]
One of the Japanese princes, Parkes, and Adams joined the dinner last
night. After that we had conjurors; the pretty butterfly trick was
beautifully performed. Yesterday Aitkin missed a small ivory-handled
clasp-knife from my dressing-table, and this morning my gold watch,
which I have had for forty years, and which I had given to my dear boy,
has disappeared--I think while I was taking my bath.
[Sidenote: Sept. 5.]
I put the case of theft into Mitford’s hands, who, having engaged the
servants, offered to guarantee their honesty with his life, or rather
undergo torture on the wheel if any act of dishonesty could be brought
against any one of them. However, before breakfast was announced, the
culprit was discovered to be the Japanese lamp-trimmer, and not only
was my watch restored, but knives, gold rings, and money belonging to
others were found in his possession. The only difficulty now will be to
save the unfortunate wretch from decapitation. A guard of fifty marines
having been landed from the _Adventure_, we had a late breakfast, and
with the Legation mounted escort, a Jap ditto, and streets lined in a
way, we proceeded in two carriages for the Mikado’s residence within
the moat and castle walls.
[Sidenote: Sept. 6.]
The Prince, Parkes, and self were the principal persons, and, in
fact, the only ones admitted into the same room as His Majesty. No
presentations took place and everything was as formal as need be, but
exceedingly curious. A more friendly meeting took place afterwards
at a small bungalow in the pleasure grounds of the castle, which are
very extensive. Mitford acted as interpreter, and the exclusiveness
surrounding the Mikado’s person was broken through. The Prince
presented him with a beautiful gold box, on the lid of which a
miniature of himself was set in diamonds.
After dinner on Saturday (4th) we had theatricals in the evening.
Performers all women; acting supposed to be very good, and the greatest
decorum preserved throughout. Yesterday morning we witnessed a game of
cup and ball on a large scale, which took place on a plot of ground
railed off for the occasion. A number of horsemen, about eight on each
side, compete in throwing the greatest number of balls through a hole
in a planking at the end of the ground, which is about two hundred
yards in length by twenty broad. The balls are red and white. The
riders are distinguished by their costume, which is very picturesque.
Each man is armed with a staff of bamboo, about five feet long, at
the end of which is a sort of cup, by which they manage to pick up
the balls, which are, in the first place, thrown on the ground on the
opposite end from the board in which the hole is.
They then ride towards it and throw the ball at the hole and go back
for another. The balls bound back within the enclosed ground, and are
again picked up. The saddle is never quitted. They jostle one another,
knock the balls from each other’s staffs, pick up and throw altogether
away the balls of their adversaries. A signal from behind points out
the number and colour of the balls that have passed through the hole.
The next thing was the interior of a great Daimio’s Palace and to
be entertained in regular Japanese fashion. The house of the Daimio
selected for the occasion belonged to a Japanese noble whose income is
estimated at £800,000 a year. He was absent, but a Prince of Japan was
there to receive and do the honours.
A Japanese fish dinner has been often described. We had to sit on
the mats and eat with chop-sticks, drink cups of hot _saki_ with the
chief men, into which fun the Duke of Edinburgh cordially entered. In
front of the banqueting room was a theatre, and a selection of plays
performed during the feast. This was done by the retainers of the
Daimio, according to ancient custom. The actors were men; the chief
performers wore masks. The dresses were gorgeous, and looked as if new
for the occasion. We did not understand the language, but Mitford had
kindly, beforehand, translated the plays. The motion of the actors
was so exactly like that of a turkey cock with his tail spread out,
that any one who has watched that bird, or a peacock under similar
circumstances, strutting about, needs no further description.
After the plays were over certain mysterious-looking boxes were brought
from the theatre and placed at the feet of the Prince for inspection.
On being opened they proved to be the masks that had been used on this
occasion, four in number, carved out of wood and painted. There was
the lovely face of woman, the comic, the tragic, and one I may call
the diabolical. These were said to be 400 years old. After this we
pulled on our boots, mounted, and rode away, escorted as before, taking
rather a circuitous route that the Prince might see something more of
the city. On getting home found that Stanhope had come up to stay with
Adams.
A covered place has been erected in front of the house for the
acrobats, so convenient that you see everything from a chair in the
verandah. Another such place has also sprung up, which looks like an
equestrian circus, but which I find is to be used for wrestling. In
fact, nothing has been forgotten by these kind and hospitable people
that can add to the comfort or amusement of our Prince.
I forgot to mention that after our return on Saturday we found the
falconers waiting in full costume. The hawking, however, was very tame.
A small species of water-rat was driven out of the ditches, which a
small hawk clawed before it had gone 5 yards.
[Sidenote: Sept. 7.]
Wrestling appears to be a national pastime, and is conducted with much
order and ceremony. The Prince had a large party of Daimios and chiefs
to luncheon yesterday, after which meal we proceeded to see the combat.
One side of the square, which must have been about 80 yards, was
covered in and fitted with chairs and seats for the Prince and his
friends. On the raised platform in the centre, which was about 20 feet
square, and likewise roofed over, was an altar, on which incense was
offered to propitiate some deity. The leading wrestlers from one side
then appeared and formed a ring on the platform, and went through
certain mystic movements, clapping of hands, extending arms, then
legs, stamping heavily with first one foot, hands resting on one knee,
then the other.
This over, they retired to a small building erected at the corner near
the end of the building in which the Prince and his guests sat, and
from which to the platform there was a pathway railed off. Another
party then issued from the opposite corner at the other end of the
Prince’s stand, and went through the same ceremony. After these had
retired, a herald summoned a man from each side. Certain ceremonies
were again gone through. A friendly pinch of salt was brought by each
and mixed with the soil on which they stood; they extended the arms and
stamped and kow-towed and then squatted and watched each other like two
game-cocks, until the signal was given by the umpire, when they sprang
at each other with a yell and wrestled in earnest. I did not observe
anything peculiar in that manner of wrestling. There must have been as
many as a hundred of each of the best. The wrestling of the champions
was reserved for the last and was exceedingly fine. The good Prince
Nwajima and the smaller officer Uwajima were the only strange guests.
After dinner the walks through the pleasure-grounds were lighted up,
and from one of the summer-houses on the edge of the lake we witnessed
some inferior fireworks, but the best these good people could produce.
In another pavilion was a native band in full costume, probably the
Mikado’s. The night was calm and fine. On return from the Legation, I
found in my room a present from His Majesty in the shape of a handsome
sword.
Acrobats came shortly after breakfast and performed some of the most
extraordinary balancing ever seen. For instance: a man lying on his
back balances on the soles of his feet four small things piled on
one another. One of them was a glass bowl with fish in it; another,
a bird-cage with a canary; a larger box on top, out of which came a
child, who climbed to the end of a branch that projected nearly at
right angles from a bamboo-tree growing out of the upper box--difficult
to describe, as I never saw the like.
After luncheon there was fishing with casting-nets: all good in its
way, the scenery being so picturesque.
[Sidenote: Yedo to Yokohama, Sept. 7.]
Events, although small, have followed each other so rapidly as to
leave no time to write. By 10 A.M. on the 8th, Princes of the blood
royal, Prince Nwajima, and the Daimios of lesser note, assembled at
the summer palace to accompany the Duke on board the _Galatea_, she
having come over from Yokohama on the previous evening, where they were
to inspect the ship and remain to luncheon. The _Ocean_ and _Pearl_
came over early in the morning. The morning had been rainy, but held
up as we embarked. The launch grounded outside the islands, and as the
tide was falling we cast off, and pulled on board the ships which were
anchored between five and six miles from the shore. As we approached,
the ships broke their masthead flags, manned yards, and fired royal
salutes; looking as no other nation’s ships can look--ropes taut and
yards square. Everything was most successful. The afternoon turned out
fine, without being too hot. The royal visitors took their departure
in _Ocean_ steam-launch at about 3.30 P.M., yards manned, and another
salute. Our Prince’s royal standard was, after giving the steam-launch
proper time to get out of sight, hauled down and my flag hoisted in its
place; and then the signal made to weigh.
We proceeded across under easy steam, and anchored at sunset, when the
flag was transferred to the _Ocean_. On landing, it was evident, by
the concourse of people, that the Prince was expected. He, however,
preferred remaining in his own snug quarters on board, and I took
advantage of the Legation carriage to get a lift up the hill. In the
morning I went down to Aspinall’s office to thank him for his most kind
offer of taking the entire charge and trouble of the bungalow off my
hands, and then into Curio Street, where I invested $800 for H.R.H.
in bronzes; also a trifle for myself. Grand dinner given by the 10th
(Lincoln Regiment) to H.R.H.
[Sidenote: Yokohama Sept. 12.]
_Sabbath._--Pouring with rain, sufficiently to prevent our attending
divine service. A great dinner was given on Friday night at the
Legation, including the Japanese Princes, such foreign ministers as
were in Yokohama, foreign Admirals, and officers commanding ships,
followed by a ball, our countrywomen appearing to advantage. Prince
tired; made his escape after two quadrilles and one waltz, which he
danced with our friend Mrs. Marshall.
H.R.H. took a quiet breakfast with us this morning, approving of
our curry, and then went home to be tatooed. The merchants having
kindly determined on giving me a parting dinner, invitations came out
yesterday, including the Prince among the Captains invited to meet me.
[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]
The kind friends who had decided on entertaining me at a parting dinner
determined no expense or trouble should be spared. The press, too,
entered cordially into the idea, and each had its leading article
puffing me up to any extent. There was one painful part in all this to
me: the speech which it entailed, that I had to prepare; although no
preparation was necessary, one could think of nothing else. On Monday
(13th), the Prince, Parkes, self, and the party who saw the Mikado at
Yedo, were photographed by Beato. Inspected afterwards the _Salamis_;
clean and improved.
On Tuesday (14th), H.R.H. planted some valuable shrubs in my bungalow
ground. They had formed part of the ornaments of the Mikado’s palace in
which the Duke had resided at Yedo. In the evening the dinner came off.
[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]
Nothing was left undone by my entertainers; about eighty sat down,
including the Minister, Chief-Justice Sir E. Hornby, Colonel Norman,
and Captains of ships--among them H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh. My
staff were also among the guests; _Ocean’s_ band in great form. Behind
the head of the table was a place screened by flower-pots, where the
wife and a few ladies were stowed.
Got through my speech better than I expected; the whole thing was a
complete success and ended by my being carried on the shoulders of
my entertainers round the tables, preceded by the Prince’s Highland
piper! Yesterday we had plenty to do, packing up and shifting on board
_Salamis_, intending to sail on arrival of mail. Embarked with wife and
chicks on board _Salamis_. It was determined to wait no longer for the
mail, or our time at Peking must be cut short.
On a signal from _Salamis_ at 3 P.M., _Galatea_, _Ocean_, and _Pearl_
weighed, and formed into line. All the foreign men-of-war manned
rigging and cheered. The _Galatea_ had just fired a parting salute to
Sir Henry Parkes, when the Japanese battery fired a royal salute,
returned by _Galatea_. The American Admiral gave me a parting salute,
which _Ocean_ returned. Many of the merchant ships were dressed with
flags, and a large American steamer, with a greater part of the
community and _Delaware’s_ band on board, accompanied our little
squadron, led by _Salamis_. After standing down the bay some miles at
half-speed, the American steamer _Nautilus_ passed up the line with
many ladies on board, giving each of us parting cheers. Poor Parkes
fancied he should never have another Naval Chief who would so cordially
co-operate with him. Our friendship was of long standing; his friendly
grasp at parting was touching! I met him first when he was a boy, and I
commanded _Dido_ in 1842. In 1858, he wrote--“Oh for a Keppel, just for
one month.”
* * * * *
I was among those who stood by to see Parkes’ monument unveiled in St.
Paul’s Cathedral.