YANG-TSE-KIANG TRIP
[Sidenote: 1869. April 1.]
Pilot on board; we were ready for a further start up the river, but
found I had been imposed on. The pilot had agreed to take us as far as
Shi-show, but had not stated when he could take us on to I-Chang. As
time was the only thing of which I had none to spare, I-Chang had to
be given up. In September and October, I believe the _Rodney_ might
be brought up as far as the first rapids. Swinhoe, the two surveying
officers, Dawson and Palmer, and the two representatives of the Chamber
of Commerce at Shanghai, had to be transferred to the _Faust_ and
_Opossum_, and in exchange we received our navigating Lieutenant,
Taylor. I doubt the Yang-tse being navigable except to a peculiar
class of steamer, adapted to the purpose of ascending the rapids above
I-Chang; but that need not prevent enterprising merchants establishing
themselves, as the Russians have done for years, in the capital and
large cities of the rich province of Se-Chuen; and they might establish
a consul, but it is a question whether our relations with China are
at present such that our consul and traders would feel secure without
the protection of a gunboat. Regret not being able to accompany them
farther, but having so much interesting work before me, ought not to
be greedy.
Having seen our friends take their departure in the _Faust_, we
weighed anchor for our return, and were drifting down broadside on
to the stream without room to go ahead, our stern close to the bank,
which being of mud, I recommended backing into. Her head immediately
paid off down stream, but my advice had been fatal to further rapid
progress. Although no shock was felt, the rudder’s head was twisted and
the rudder unmanageable. On examination, it was found we had to drift
down. I did not like to upset the exploring and surveying expedition
by sending for the _Opossum_, but determined on sending an officer to
Hankow for the _Zebra_ to come up to Hankow. Nothing could have been
more unfortunate than this event, or so completely adapted to upset the
arrangements I had made during the short time I was likely to remain
on the station. The hot season approaching, my anxiety to get to the
northward was great.
My galley, with Mr. Lee, took her departure at about 6 P.M. on a
journey of 220 miles to Hankow, but with a strong current and the
prospects of an occasional lift by sailing.
[Sidenote: Apr. 2.]
Our misfortunes had not come to an end. The morning was fine. We got
under way with the prospects of a good day before us; I had been
calculating with our American pilot whether we should not be close on
our galley at Hankow. We were coming to a part of the river where there
are a succession of islands a-wash, and we ought to have crossed to
the opposite or right bank of the river. _Salamis_ awkward to handle.
The only way the rudder would act was the wrong one; the American
pilot recommended to warp across. The stocks of both bower anchors
had broken. In trying to cross, the ship grounded on the upper side of
the first of the above-named islands. Our hope was in the rise of the
river, while it was possible that the island might rise too! We were
in a fix. Twelve long days were spent getting the ship afloat and to
rights. The bank shifting occasionally, moved the position.
On the 14th the house-boat _Fanny_ arrived from Hankow. Risk and
ourselves went down in her to Hankow, arriving on the 18th. The
_Salamis_ followed three days later, when the flag was rehoisted.
On the 25th the French man-of-war _Flamon_ arrived, saluted us, and
also, with three guns, the late Viceroy’s wife and son on their
departure. Weighed and arrived at Shanghai on the 27th.
[Sidenote: Apr. 30.]
_Salamis_ paid off: recommissioned by Commander Miller.
[Sidenote: May 11.]
Transferred wife and children with Flag-Lieutenant to the care of my
kind friend Raby in the _Adventure_, and steamed down the Woosung.
[Sidenote: May 15.]
Came to off Chefoo, a pretty port with red cliffs and good beaches.
Found Lord Charles Scott in the _Icarus_. Went on in the afternoon and
arrived off Taku in time to pick up our old pilot Bandi. Crossed the
bar of the Peiho with the flood-tide, which we carried for 40 miles,
making with three boilers, for one hour, over 30 miles.
Started again at daylight and got to Tientsin at 9.30, having fouled
but one junk and only touching the bottom once.
[Sidenote: May. 17.]
Mr. Morgan, the Consul, lost no time in making arrangements for our
start for Peking. Our party consisted of Charlie Scott, Miller,
Risk, and Dob Crosbie, my nephew. We had six boats, covered in and
convenient for sleeping, another for cooking, one for servants. A
Commander-in-Chief could not travel without a mandarin, who arranged
everything and saved much trouble and annoyance. Mandarin Chaing Lao
(the fifth of the brothers Chaing) arrived about 6 P.M., and we then
spent the next forty-eight hours going up the Peiho, carried by the
flood through the crowds of junks which nearly block up the river.
The crew were willing enough as long as time was allowed them for
“chow-chow” and smoke. We travelled all night.
[Sidenote: May. 19.]
We might have reached Tung-Chow this evening, but as the gates of
Peking are closed at 6 P.M., we enjoyed a quiet night by stopping short
of the town.
[Sidenote: Peking, May 20.]
Peking.--We had not arrived many minutes before Sir Rutherford’s
stud-groom, with two mounted orderlies, arrived, bringing letters from
His Excellency, stating that horses had been sent on over night. Carts
for our luggage would leave Peking early in the morning. “Don Juan,”
the same horse I rode during our delightful excursion into Mongolia
in 1867, was sent for me. By 9 A.M. we were at the British Legation,
received with the same welcome and hospitality I had experienced when
last here. Conolly took care of Risk; the rest of us were distributed
over the Legation. I was in my old quarters. The baths were luxuries
after our journey, for the water of the Peiho is too muddy for bathing.
Lady Alcock and her daughter joined us at the 12 o’clock breakfast: the
latter a bright, pretty girl, nice to everybody. Those who had not been
in Peking before were shown the sights within reach by Conolly. I had
much to discuss with Sir Rutherford. We agreed that although our late
proceedings had not been approved of by the Foreign Office, what we did
was for the best, and so far from drawing the country into war, the
steps taken were the only ones that averted such a misfortune. Went to
see the Joss that the Sergeant of Minister’s Bodyguard has brought for
me.
* * * * *
I sent a photograph of it to General Knollys. It came home in the
_Rodney_ and is now comfortably housed at Sandringham.
* * * * *
The interpretation of the inscription at the foot of the Joss is as
follows:--
Respectfully made on a lucky day of the tenth month of the
twenty-eighth year of His Majesty K’-ang-Hsi.
In English dates, October or November 1690.
The dinner-party this evening included Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hart. He
holds a high position in the Imperial Customs, and has control over a
larger revenue than was ever held by a foreigner in China, or perhaps
any other country. Hart has the appointing of all the heads for
collecting the foreign duties, as well as of the Harbour Masters and
Commanders of Revenue cruisers. He chooses the positions and raising
of lighthouses as well as the placing of lightships. Two years ago he
applied to me for opinions respecting the proper positions of these
lights, which I directed Commander Brooker to furnish. He took great
pains and wrote several folios of information on the subject.
I was gratified to learn that Hart had, upon my recommendation,
reserved the appointment of Commander of a revenue boat, with £800
a year, for my old friend Claude de Crespigny. Dob Crosbie, who
had kindly undertaken the duties of Master of the Horse to the
Commander-in-Chief, took an early ride with Conolly to the Horse
Bazaar to look for a quiet pony or two. He got hold of a fairish Dun,
which is docile enough, I think, to carry Colin at Yokohama.
[Sidenote: May 23.]
To forenoon church--a modest little building with no appearance of
extra ceremonies.
[Sidenote: May 24.]
Our traps started by early carts for Tung-Chow. The Joss went off on
Saturday. Sir Rutherford directed that it should be carefully covered
with matting for fear any _dévote_ Chinaman should take umbrage at
a god being removed from the Celestial Empire. The mandarin who
accompanied us was anxious to know if I should burn incense before it
when I got home. I have no doubt he thought I was a convert to Buddhism.
The fur merchants had many pretty things, but I selected a small piece
of the sea-otter skin, sufficient to make a muff, and was told it was
valued above sable. I had also some commissions with the silk-seller,
and chose some pieces of maize and other silk, which, as Mr. Pepys
would have said in his diary, “did me much pleasure.”
After _déjeuner_ we took leave of our friends, and mounted our horses
to ride quietly back, much tried by hot wind and clouds of dust. Ice,
however, was plentiful and cheap. Late in the evening our small fleet
was again under way, increased now by two more boats containing the
Joss and sundry carved stones. We had likewise to distribute through
the fleet 8 good-sized cages, containing 16 pheasants from Mongolia for
my friend Tom de Grey. “Crossoptelon Manchuricum” worth “some” should
they reach England alive. Drank Her Majesty’s health _en route_ with
honours.
[Sidenote: Peiho River to Tientsin, May 25.]
This has been a scorching sun with a burning wind, while hot sand
found its way into the interior of our boats, as well as into our eyes
and everything we ate or drank. We managed a walk of two or three
miles, which can always be accomplished without detaining the boats
by watching on the chart (the Admiralty one is very good) where the
river takes an unusual sweep round, when you walk across to the nearest
point. No rain having fallen for three weeks, the ground was hard and
hot; and the natives anticipated a bad harvest.
Among the odds and ends one sees in the shops in Peking, nothing is
more curious, as well as absurd, than the children’s toys. Conolly’s
Chinese servant was put in requisition to make a double collection--one
for our children and the other for them to send by the _Rodney_ to
numerous cousins.
[Sidenote: May 26.]
It was near midnight before we got alongside the _Salamis_.