THE COMMAND IN CHINA
[Sidenote: 1868. Nov. 1.]
At the same time we heard of the fresh complications in China, the mail
brought news of the loss of the _Rattler_ on September 24, in Shakotan
Bay. My grief was great. Poor _Rattler_; unlucky nephew! In the midst
of their trouble the French sloop _Dupleix_, with the ever kind Captain
du Petit Thours, arrived, and took them off to Yokohama.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]
[Sidenote: Saigon. Nov. 5.]
We arrived at Saigon on November 5. There was no difficulty in finding
a pilot off Cape St. James. We proceeded at once up the river to
Saigon. On landing, was received by the French officials with every
demonstration of respect. The Governor’s carriage, drawn by four grays,
and a mounted escort, conveyed me to Government House, where apartments
for self and staff were ready. Marie Gustave Hector Ohier was Governor
and Naval Commander-in-Chief in China and Japan. He had served in the
French Naval Brigade in the Crimea; but we were on different Attacks,
and did not meet. His A.D.C. and Flag-Lieutenant, Comte G. F. Edmond de
Grancy, likewise a good fellow; his mother was English, and he spoke
our language fluently.
[Sidenote: Saigon.]
Saigon appears to have been well selected as a dockyard and arsenal;
situated 25 miles up a river navigable for line-of-battle ships, it
might be rendered invulnerable in these days of infernal machines:
a legitimate defence, as it can seldom be used except against an
aggressor. In the arsenal were all the means of building ships-of-war.
Several old line-of-battle lay in the river, besides an immense
troopship, equal to our largest. French rulers are energetic and
active. By means of convict labour, which they obtain from Bourbon,
they carry on roads and raise buildings.
The site for a magnificent city, with squares and palaces, is marked
out; but the great thing wanted is population, which, in spite of
the assurances of the young Comte de Grancy, beloved by the natives,
is now fast disappearing. In the temporary banquetting room, where I
was entertained, were pictures of the Emperor and Empress, to which
was added that of Isabella of Spain. Saddle horses were placed at our
disposal. Visited a large breeding establishment, chiefly of Australian
mares and Arab horses; but the produce were a weedy-looking lot! There
was a zealous and enterprising naturalist in one Monsieur Pierne,
Directeur du Jardin Botanique, Saigon, who appeared to work unassisted.
I was told that one road extended some 900 miles in a northerly
direction, which must bring them not far from our Burmese possessions.
We heard from the officers of the gunboats who make excursions up the
river that they frequently get shots at elephants and that tigers
are numerous. The sport may be good, but I should think the climate
was not to be trifled with. Nothing in the shape of curios was to be
obtained, with the exception of small boxes and stands inlaid with
mother-o’-pearl, in the making of which the natives seem to excel.
[Sidenote: Nov. 7.]
Sailed in the afternoon, having been escorted back as I had arrived.
When taking leave of Admiral Ohier on shore, I requested him not to
return my visit, as the one I now paid him was in return for that he
paid me at Hong Kong, when he departed without giving me an opportunity
of waiting on him. I was off the following morning for Singapore, where
we arrived on the 10th, staying only to coal before paying a long
promised visit to Siam.
[Sidenote: Bankok, Nov. 15.]
We arrived at Bankok on the 15th. The Consul-General, Colonel Knox,
kindly offered me the hospitality of the Consulate. W. H. Read was
already there, having come up at my request to settle some consular
matters which required attention. The young King Khoulalonkorn had but
recently succeeded his father, whose obsequies were proceeding.
In one of the principal temples, the remains of His Majesty were placed
in a huge silver urn, from which a ribbon passed through the hands
of numerous priests, whose duty it was to pray day and night for the
repose of the King’s soul. The ceremonies continue for a year, after
which all that is left of the departed is consigned to the flames.
Nothing could exceed the kindness of the young King: an intelligent and
good-looking youth. Banquets and entertainments were the order of the
day, and there was much of interest to see in the beautiful temples,
palaces, and buildings, placed in the most picturesque scenery.
[Sidenote: Nov. 18.]
On the 18th left for Sarawak, paying a short visit, and arrived at
Singapore on the 27th.
[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]
Weighed and steamed to the westward.
[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]
Came to in Penang Roads.
[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]
Mail steamer arrived, bringing the wife, Colin and little May, who were
quickly embarked.
[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]
Arrived at Singapore, but for the duties of command, with wife and kids
on board, my kind old friends made me feel doubly at home. Alongside
Kampong Bahru I felt the harbour was my own: it was scarcely discovered
when in the _Mæander_. I recommended it to a shifting Board of
Admiralty as the fittest coaling station in the Far East.
[Sidenote: Dec. 19. Labuan.]
Arrived at Labuan. Mr. Pope Henessey was the first on board; he had
a grievance. The officer in command of a gunboat had declined to
fire a royal salute when directed by the Governor to do so, on Mr.
Disraeli becoming Prime Minister. Explained that owing to accidents no
man-of-war mounting less than ten guns was allowed to fire a salute.
However, I was told that the zealous Governor had dug up some old
buried guns, and had his salute fired, not quite to regular time.
Vast improvements had been made since our last visit. Mr. Hugh Low,
the Secretary, had married his daughter to the Governor. Low was a
botanist, and had introduced that delicious fruit, the pumalo. Dr.
Treacher, the late Rajah’s friend, held a government appointment. De
Crespigny had left the navy and become a Resident. We remained till the
23rd.
[Sidenote: Dec. 26.]
[Sidenote: Dec. 31.]
Came to in Manila Bay. Courteously received as before in _Dido_,
and again in the _Mæander_. It has altered little in the past
five-and-twenty years, except to become more like a town on the
Riviera than those one finds in the East under our own flag. There are
plate-glass windows in the shops, a handsome boulevard, cafés, and
bands playing.
[Sidenote: 1869. Jan. 1.]
We were no sooner clear of Manila Bay than we began to experience what
it was to face the north-east monsoon. All my party were prostrate.
_Salamis_ was so sudden in her movements that cots were given up and
beds spread on the deck. My boy was in a burning fever--caught, we
supposed, at Labuan--patient and good, calling only for drink, but
unable to bear clothing.
[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Jan. 3.]
At 8.30 we came to in Hong Kong. Keppel Garnier started to ask Dr.
Hill to come from the _Melville_, hospital ship. The Governor and Lady
Macdonnell kindly arranged everything for our reception at Government
House, where we went on arrival. Doctors Murray and Dodds were soon in
attendance. After consultations, they tried to persuade us that Colin
would pull through. On service, wives and children ought to remain at
home!
However, the boy soon mended.
Nothing could have been more fortunate than the quarters into which
we had been so kindly received. There was scarcely a person in Hong
Kong who did not sympathise with us. Coxswain Webb was better than any
nurse. Our children were much at the Bertrand’s, where their charming
little daughter, Louise, took kindly to them. But all this has no
business in a sailor’s log!
Time passed pleasantly; with any other than the true Irish hospitality
with which we were entertained I should have fancied we were
over-staying our welcome. The flagship _Rodney_ did not put in an
appearance until the 21st. She had then to make good defects, and leave
was due to the crew.
[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
We started, children and all, by the 8 A.M. steamer to pay a visit
to my old friend Robertson at his Yamun in Canton. Nothing could be
prettier than the passage through the Cap Sing Moon Pass, and when we
came to the Boca Tigris Forts I had much to relate of bygone days.
There, too, to the northward, was the fort I, with a small squadron,
in 1857, was instructed to capture, which “pidgin” was spoilt by the
Chinese not wanting to fight. I have at Bishopstoke the cap and sword
which the Chinese Governor threw away that he might not be recognized.
After a short stop at Whampoa, we arrived at the Pier of Canton, where
Robertson waited with chairs to receive us. Wenny Coke, who arrived a
few days previously from the north, came with us in the steamer, and
was also put up by Robertson.
Archdeacon Gray had kindly undertaken to show all there was. But we had
arranged to return in a day or two, and our time would not allow of our
seeing a tithe of what the kind Archdeacon wished. We, however, saw
one or two joss-houses, only curious when the meaning of the various
grotesque figures and inscriptions were explained. The City of the Dead
was the most extraordinary. It is a walled town, surrounded by a ditch,
as if it was ever likely to be attacked! It is here that all those who
can afford it deposit their dead until some auspicious day for the
funeral occurs, which may not be for years. Others who, having come
from some distant province to hold office under Government, deposit
their dead relatives in these clean and snug lodgings until they have
made their fortunes, or are turned out, as the case may be.
The city is composed of one-storied houses, the streets straight and
painfully quiet; some of the houses contained one, but the others
two or three coffins resting on stretchers. There were joss sticks
burning in most, with a change of raiment and other little comforts
the departed might require, and as there were a few priests about, I
daresay the “comforts” were appreciated.
Having an appointment to meet the Viceroy at the Consul’s Yamun, I
was obliged to leave the sightseers and had not time to partake of
an excellent luncheon; as it was I followed the Viceroy’s train of
followers, and had only donned my uniform in time to enter the room as
the Consul received him with a salute of three guns.
Our interview was the same as on a previous occasion, only now, as
established old friends, we were much more cordial. The children amused
themselves in the small, walled park attached to the Yamun, but a
change of weather and a cutting N.E. wind coming on, our experienced
friend the Archdeacon cautioned us to be careful.
Went out again curio-hunting, and on our return found a despatch
from the Commodore detailing an outrage at Swatow, in which some
well-known, ill-disposed villagers had fired into the _Cockchafer’s_
boats, wounding eleven persons (some badly), and the Commodore, pending
further instructions, was preparing to punish the offenders.
It was fortunate my being in Canton with the Consul, as it enabled
us at once to communicate with the Viceroy, Swatow being under his
jurisdiction. The boats of the _Cockchafer_, when away exercising
up the River Han, were assailed by stones by the inhabitants of the
semi-piratical village of Ou-teng-foi.
The Commander landed, intending to remonstrate with the headman of
the village, but as he could get no one to conduct him to his house,
he seized a well-dressed Chinaman who was near, and who had witnessed
the outrage, that he might take him before the Consul at Swatow to be
examined.
Without further provocation the villagers opened fire on the
_Cockchafer’s_ boats, who, finding themselves opposed to some six
hundred Chinese, made a running fight of it, as they retreated down the
river, killing and wounding several of their assailants, returning with
the gunner and a boatswain’s mate dangerously, and eight others, in a
less degree, wounded.
I at once placed myself in communication with the Viceroy of the two
Kwang provinces. That part of the department, Quang Tung, lying to
the northward and eastward of Canton had long resisted the Imperial
Power, refusing to pay taxes, while they themselves levied blackmail
on traders passing from Chow-Chow-Fou. An imperial army of from five
to six thousand troops was gradually making its way to Chow-Chow-Fou,
bringing the villages under subjection as it marched.
The inhabitants of the villages of Tang-Tau and Po-leng had on one
occasion roasted alive the mandarin who had been sent to govern them.
They placed another mandarin between two planks and sawed him in
halves. The Viceroy immediately sent orders for the army to advance,
and appointed two Commissioners, with a force and a couple of gunboats,
to co-operate with our forces towards the punishment of the offending
villages. The Commodore was ordered to take command of the _Rinaldo_,
_Perseus_, _Leven_, _Bouncer_, and _Cockchafer_, together with a party
of seamen and marines from the _Rodney_.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]
These being soon ready, the Commodore proceeded to Swatow, with orders
to make preparations, but wait the arrival of the Commissioners and
Chinese forces. I, intending to follow in the _Salamis_, returned to
Hong Kong, and on the 30th hoisted the flag on board her, and left same
afternoon. Whether the Commodore thought that I should personally
supersede him in the command, I do not know. When I arrived at Swatow
on the 31st, I found he had neglected the latter part of his orders,
and the morning after his arrival, without waiting for the Viceroy’s
Commissioners, proceeded to land his marines and march up the banks to
protect the boats which conveyed the force up the creek that led to the
offending villages.
At 8 A.M. (28th January) an advance was made on the village of
Tang-Tau, which, together with that of Po-leng, had assisted the
villages of Ou-teng-foi in their attack. These three villages offered
more or less resistance: at each, the inhabitants were first to open
fire, and showed a bold front, but the Sneiders soon doubled up those
who did not take the earliest opportunity of dispersing as our men
advanced. Tang-Tau was burned. Po-leng was spared, as the inhabitants
made little resistance. Ou-teng-foi, which was barricaded, had their
defences destroyed, and principal houses burned. It was difficult to
ascertain the amount of loss of the villagers, as they were smart in
carrying off their killed and wounded, but the Commodore, thinking they
were sufficiently punished, re-embarked and returned to his ships. No
looting of any sort was allowed, although geese and poultry were in
plenty.
Our casualties were five wounded; the worst being Lieutenant Herbert
Gye, whose face and hands were badly burned by an explosion of
gunpowder lying loose on the floor of a house he was endeavouring to
set fire to. Lieutenant Aitkin was severely bambooed before and behind
by two Chinamen who rushed on him unawares, and Lieutenant Lloyd was
wounded in the foot by falling into a cleverly concealed trap armed
with a spear and intended for greater mischief.
The next day, 29th, the headmen of the villages sent in their
submission in the following terms, translated from the original:--
_Humble Petition_--
The Inhabitants of Tang-Tau, Po-leng, and Ou-teng-foi.
On the 8th day of this month, some children, seeing your great
country’s war-boats passing, were much frightened, and, racing away,
foolishly excited our people to attack them, for which the great army
has entered our villages and punished us.
We repent our fault fully, and, prostrating ourselves, beg,
undeserved, that mercy may be shown us, and promise that men and
women will, one and all, live peaceably and quietly for coming
generations under your favour.
Trusting that the great Consul will grant our prayers, etc.
Of course the Viceroy, to whom I had promised that the force I was
about to send from Hong Kong should wait to co-operate with his and his
Commissioners, was greatly disappointed, and I expect our Minister at
Peking (Sir Rutherford Alcock) will be the same.
[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]
10 A.M.--Weighed, and stood out of river Canton.
[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
Arrived at Foochow. Proceeded up river Min, and anchored off Pagoda.