NORTH CHINA PORTS
[Sidenote: 1867. Amoy, May 31.]
At Amoy we found the _Cormorant_, a pretty fast despatch gunboat,
Commander Broad, whose master came with him and piloted us to a berth
in the inner harbour, thereby exciting the jealousy of our own smart
master, who might have made a mistake in the passage between the
town and the island of Kulangsau. Later in the year this place was
celebrated for that prince of fruits, the pumalo. Of course there are
many others, but none to be compared to it.
The trade here, although one of the first ports open to foreigners, is
not equal to Swatow. It is one of the outlets for the enormous province
of Fuh Kien, and an accessible port. There is a rare animal here in the
shape of a really _active_ Chinese Admiral, and piracy within reach of
his station is unusual, although it is supposed that time, place and
opportunity offering, his cruisers are not above levying blackmail.
A good dock, 286 feet long, and capable, owing to a great rise and
fall of tide, of taking in vessels drawing 17 feet, into which the
_Cormorant_ will go on Tuesday next for repairs. Our Consul appears
to be conspicuously and well-housed on the highest part of Kulangsau,
commanding a view both up and down the river. On this island most
Europeans live, keeping their offices in the town of Amoy. Coal to be
had, and always ready, but the coolies lazy, coal being sent in ten or
twelve-ton boats.
[Sidenote: June 1.]
French mail arrived, bringing news up to May 6. A wonderful change is
here! No news of importance. Rumours of warlike preparations. Nations
hesitate nowadays before striking a first blow, but those armed to
the teeth are not so easily kept in check. The only really sad news
from England is the continued suffering of that most amiable of all
Princesses.
Broad gave me a pair of walrus teeth, put on board him by a
suspicious-looking junk, manned and armed for war, but there was no
proof of aggression.
[Sidenote: June 3.]
Inspected _Cormorant_ at 10 A.M. In excellent order. Received with
manned yards. No room for ball practice, but clear for action, and guns
loaded within three minutes. Noon.--Weighed in _Pearl_ and steamed out,
two boilers. An old _St. Jean d’Acre_, Shearman, chief engineer.
[Sidenote: June 4.]
In the morning we were off the Dogs’ Islands, and a pilot shortly on
board. Although we made sail, we were too late to save the high water
over the bar; brought up until the morning. While at anchor observed
numbers of curious-looking snakes floating past; they did not appear
lively, and the pilot pronounced them to have been washed out of the
paddyfields. Had one caught in a bucket. It appeared more dead than
alive, and it was with difficulty that we discovered its mouth and
something like eyes; it was a brownish colour, about a foot long, and
as transparent as a jelly-fish: some of us thought it was a piece of
seaweed, even after handling.
The tail end appeared more lively than the head; at different parts of
the body it had the appearance of having been ripped in two by a piece
of thread tied round the body. Some one on board had read in some book
that if you broke these snakes at their apparent joints, each piece
became a separate snake. The head was considerably thicker than the
other part of the body; it tapered gradually to the tail. While moving
in the water it looked like a lively and dangerous animal, but in a
basin of water it was almost inanimate.
[Sidenote: June 5.]
Soon after 9 A.M. weighed and steamed into the entrance of the river
Min. Carrying the tide with us, we made rapid progress through a
tortuous channel until we came to the contracted entrance of the Kiu
Pai Pass, when nothing can be prettier than the scenery, which again
opens into a wide expanse for three or four miles, and then the channel
enters between high rocky hills, not unlike the best parts of the
scenery on the Rhine.
Three miles of this brought us to Pagoda Island, where we anchored. The
city of Foo-chow is some ten miles higher up, but to be approached only
by small craft. From this port three clipper tea-ships started last
year, performing the most extraordinary sea race on record, the three
ships arriving in London within a few hours of each other. Several
are now loading and two or three are already off--beautiful ships,
reminding one of fine old sailing days of _Dido_, which class of ship
they greatly resemble.
[Sidenote: June 7.]
On June 7, steamed down against the tide, and steered for the
Yang-tse-Kiang.
[Sidenote: June 9.]
Having picked up a pilot off Gützlaff Island, we came to in the evening
off Woosung, doubtful whether, with our draught, 20 feet 2 inches, we
could proceed over the bar.
[Sidenote: June 10.]
Having transported some of the guns forward, we crossed the bar and
steamed up to Shanghai.
[Sidenote: Shanghai.]
Little like the place we took possession of twenty-five years ago. It
is difficult to recognise the Chinese element at all in this great
commercial port; even the pilots are European. The buildings, roads,
carriages, consular flags, merchant steamers, as well as those vessels
propelled by rope and canvas, all tend to hide from sight that Shanghai
still belongs to China. French, American, and Prussian men-of-war are
here. No saluting on account of close quarters.
Landed in afternoon; kindly taken in by George Fitzroy and his wife,
having known him from the time he was of the same age as a sweet little
girl resembling what he was. The comfort and quiet of this place is
what I wanted. Mrs. Fitzroy is a charming person. Although requiring
quiet, had not time to frame an excuse before I found myself engaged to
dine with Mr. Winchester, the Consul, to meet Sir Rutherford Alcock,
who is here making his annual tour of visits to the Consulates at the
Treaty Ports; with him are Mr. Conolly (very tall) and Major Crossman
of the Royal Engineers, employed by Government to inspect and report
on all buildings within its jurisdiction, naval, consulate, colonial,
or military; also my old friend Wade, once of 98th, perhaps the most
efficient scholar and interpreter in China.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Rattler_, June 11.]
A court-martial detained the _Pearl_ and _Rattler_ (in charge of
station). _Argus_ also here, attending on the Minister, with a new
commander just appointed in Hallowes.
_Algerine_, with a smart little lieutenant, Domville, will proceed
south as soon as her commander is clear of the doctor. We have also
_Acorn_, hospital ship, Mr. Roe in charge, an intelligent surgeon.
[Illustration: Map--Eastern Archipelago]
[Sidenote: June 13.]
Although not well enough to enjoy dinner at Consulate on Tuesday, was
pleased at meeting Sir Rutherford Alcock, when we arranged for my visit
to Peking.
We have a coal depot and store-houses here, away from any river
frontage, and as inconveniently situated as a place of the sort could
be. An advantageous sale, as well as purchase of a more suitable site,
might now be made, but the Admiral is not invested with the necessary
power.
The Vice-Consul, Mr. John Markham, has promised me some good shooting,
three days’ journey from this, in the proper season, after September.
Heard of the failure of the house of Dent and Co. Independent of the
ruin of so many poorer people, that of John Dent causes universal
sympathy and regret.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Manila_, June 15.]
Shifted flag from _Rattler_ on board _Manila_. At noon sailed, having
written the Commodore of my intention to go to Nagasaki, which may
reach Hong-Kong in time to save his going to Shanghai. Yesterday the
Fitzroys had a dinner party, including the Minister, the _attaché_,
Conolly, Wade, and Commander Swan. Birds’-nest soup.
[Illustration: _Sir Rutherford Alcock._]
Had conversation with Sir Rutherford as to the next steps towards
the suppression of piracy. We agreed that the disarming, as far as
heavy guns were concerned, of all traders was necessary. He thought
the Chinese Government were sincere in their expressed wish to put it
down. The promised co-operation with other European Powers is necessary
to prevent jealousies. In searching junks for guns the presence of
a responsible Chinese authority necessary. Respectable interpreters
should be found for our cruisers.
After I have consulted with my brother Admirals of France and United
States, Russia, Prussia and Netherlands too, if I can get them,
intend to address Sir Rutherford on the subject, and get them to do
likewise to their respective Ministers. Sir Rutherford agreed with
me that the small Portuguese settlement of Macao was a nuisance--the
haunt of pirates: the centre of that diabolical trade in kidnapped
coolies, worse in its features than the traffic in slaves. Besides, the
Portuguese have no legal right to Macao.
To enjoy a visit to Peking one should go up about the middle of
September, so as to have a walk on the hills where all the Foreign
Ministers reside during the hottest of weather, returning to Pekin the
last week in that month. Mr. Conolly seemed to think that he could
easily obtain some of the crossoptalon, the species of pheasant so
coveted by Lord de Grey.
[Sidenote: Nagasaki, June 18.]
Entered the deep bay which forms the beautiful harbour of Nagasaki.
Feeling still invalidy, took advantage of a lull to land in a boat
brought off from shore by Mr. Alt, and proceeded at once to his
prettily-situated residence high up on the side of a hill. Flag was
shifted to _Pelorus_.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Pelorus_, June 30.]
On 24th the weather held up and we formed a riding party of
six--Haswell, Risk, Lindau, Norton, Alt, and self--and landed where
the ponies had been sent, and rode to the village of Tokito. Nothing
can be prettier than the scenery, while every available flat was
under cultivation, chiefly padi; the fields, with their mud banks,
were small, but the irrigation perfect. Natives simple and civil to a
degree. The village, prettily situated on the bank of what appeared to
be an inland sea, was inhabited by fishermen. Our ponies were entire
and savage, kicking each other whenever opportunity offered; roads not
much near Nagasaki, but particularly good when we got within Prince of
Omera’s territory.
Risk led the way on a pulling pony, much against his will. On our
return, tide being out and boat unable to come up to the spot at which
we disembarked, we rode home through the town, the most curious feature
of the ride being the facility with which the ponies travelled up and
down a steep flight of stone steps.
Had one short afternoon in the china and curio shops. Market in
everything spoilt since the influx of Europeans; prices higher, and
china, particularly that called the egg china, much inferior to what
I had formerly received from here. Mr. Lindau gave me a magnificent
specimen of the teredo or borer--the largest I have seen.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, June 26.]
On the 26th _Salamis_ arrived, having the Commodore on board on leave.
Shifted flag. The pending troubles in Japan appear to have excited
the Saimonirai to renewed animosity against Europeans, and it became
necessary to restrict the leave of the men, and to oblige officers to
carry revolvers. I think my secretary, W. B. Risk, and nephew, Dob
Crosbie, are now alive owing to this precaution; for one afternoon,
returning in company from the native town of Nagasaki, a two-sworded
man, heated by liquor, threw up his sleeve and was proceeding to draw
his sword, when Risk’s revolver made its appearance, and the Saimonirai
swaggered past. A few moments later, a number of Europeans in hot
pursuit of the same man, informed them that he had cut down some people
in the settlement, and the Portuguese Consul had barely escaped with
his life.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_. Inland Sea.]
4 A.M.--Weighed; dirty weather. So left the pretty scenery to keep for
some more auspicious day. Made for Spex Straits, through which passage
nothing can be prettier, but Japan is a new and interesting country,
with--apparently--everything within itself, while the wants of the
natives are few, and all appear happy and contented; a state of things
to which the boasted superiority and civilisation of the European will
speedily put an end.
Beautiful pasture appeared on most of the hills, but beyond a few
bullocks and buffaloes as beasts of burthen, and for agricultural
purposes, cattle are not required by these simple people. They look
strong and healthy, but eat no meat.
On emerging from these narrow and winding Straits, in which there is
depth of water for the largest ships, we made the entrance to the
Inland Sea through the Straits of Shimonoseki; the rain kept off,
and the sea without a ripple, the _Salamis_ made light work. As we
entered the Straits, in addition to the ever-changing scene of hills
and valleys, wood and pasture, coves, inlets, and snug anchorages, the
scent of flowers was wafted off.
[Sidenote: July 1.]
Daylight, got under weigh from off Kokura and steamed through the
Straits; a strong tide against us gave time to enjoy the scenery
and examine the numerous curious-looking trading vessels, arriving,
departing, and at anchor off the town of Shimonoseki. After passing
these we came to the dismantled batteries which Chioshiu, the Prince
of Nagato, considered strong enough to guard the Inland Sea against
all foreigners, but which in 1863 Admiral Kuper, assisted by the
French, proved to the contrary, and by treaty afterwards stipulated
that the fortifications should not be rebuilt, an agreement which has
been strictly adhered to. After passing the Straits and the weather
continuing dirty we ran for the island of Hime Sima, and came to off a
large fishing village.
[Sidenote: Inland Sea, July 2.]
Weighed at 4.30 and steered to the eastward through this beautiful
Inland Sea, altering course occasionally as we threaded our way between
the islands, bringing up in the afternoon on the south side of Cape
Kadzitoi, a snug anchorage, near a fishing village, but the boats had
not come in. Tried our seine on a sandy part of the beach, but without
success. Natives venturing alongside and afterwards on board with much
coquetting,--simple, quiet, good sort of people. Got a pretty bivalve
and a helix that must have been washed from the land by the rains; with
more time some fine shells might be collected.
[Sidenote: July 3.]
4.30.--Weighed and stood to the eastward, passing islands on both sides
with all the appearance of a pretty, moving panorama--water perfectly
smooth. Numerous native boats about, some fishing, while others were
under their grotesque but picturesque sails.
[Sidenote: July 4.]
4.30 A.M.--Weighed. Fine weather. Sun shining, it being just before
the time of high water, met the last of the flood, and passed through
the Naruto (Japanese for gate of the sea), ran alongshore to the S.E.
Coming into the open we met a strong breeze and head sea. By the
morning we had again run into fine weather.
[Sidenote: Yokohama to Yedo, July 5.]
At 4 P.M. we came to in Yokohama, but on receiving a letter from Sir
Harry Parkes, inviting self and three friends to Yedo, weighed again
and ran the distance to Yedo, 15 miles, in an hour and five minutes.
The French admiral, Rose, in the _Guerinere_, had saluted my flag as
soon as they could well make it out. _Perseus_ returned, _Basilisk_
and two gunboats in the anchorage. Commander Stevens ill on shore in
hospital. Several men-of-war of various descriptions, wearing the
Government flag of the Tycoon, or more properly Shogoon, which I trust
we shall have the means of licking into shape. The British Government
well represented in Sir Harry Parkes, who appears to be very properly
and prettily mated, with three children here and two at home, one of
those here a fine and handsome boy, same age as my Colin.
[Illustration: _Harry Parkes._]
[Sidenote: Yedo, July 10.]
Yesterday was fixed for our visit to the Minister for Foreign Affairs,
an office lately decided upon, at the instigation of Sir Harry. We
formed a respectable _cortège_. The Minister with his staff of three,
Commodore, Secretary, Flag-Lieutenant and self. Orders--cocked hats
and side arms. We were all well mounted, escorted by our guard of
eight lancers, two of whom preceded. The rear of all was brought up
by a native guard, mounted on disreputable-looking ponies. Notice had
been given of our intended visit, and the usual curiosity exhibited.
Our route to the castle lay through some three miles of town. We were
properly received. Guards in the entrance kneeling. In the audience
chamber table and chairs to suit such visitors provided. Tea, tobacco,
saki, pipes and sweetmeats.
Conversation commenced, as in all civilised places, about the weather;
then, naval matters, site for the buildings, for the instructing
officer to live in, assurances of good feeling, etc., during which a
couple of hours slipped away, when we returned as we came.
Was struck with the ease and gentleman-like bearing of these Japanese
officials. Their costume dark, and nothing imposing about it, as in
case of the Chinese. Hearing that I was about to return to Yokohama, my
visit was returned this morning by the minister and officials connected
with the Naval Department.
[Sidenote: Yedo, July 11.]
We had another ride yesterday, as we have had each day, through this
wonderful and interesting city. We rode to the bridge, from which
distances to all parts of the kingdom are reckoned, by the outer mole,
through such pretty scenery of water, green banks and trees, that after
having made a tour of some five-and-twenty miles, it was difficult to
believe that we had never been outside the town of Yedo. During the day
the following little event unfortunately occurred:--
The minister is not allowed to move without being followed by a dozen
of these ragamuffin guards, which the Japanese Government maintain are
necessary for his protection, but which are nothing more than mounted
spies--now and then, when we were trotting, one of these fellows would
pretend to get excited and dash past the minister. Each day some of
them had been checked and ordered back to their places in the rear; but
yesterday one of them, whether from over-excitement or impudence is not
known, dashed past me, and was stopped by Sir Harry Parkes, who applied
the crop of a heavy hunting whip across his shoulders and held the same
over the head of the officer or man in charge, threatening to serve him
out also if he did not keep his men in better order. Sir Harry then
made one or two mounted orderlies turn the whole native squad of twelve
into a side road; one that led to the inner route. They scampered off,
a ridiculous and ignominious retreat.
However, before we got home, we saw four following, but at so
respectable a distance that a looker-on could not have discovered that
we were the objects of their observation. The only pity was, that the
minister did not leave the dirty work of inflicting the chastisement
to one of the orderlies or one of his staff, who all looked as if they
would have liked the fun.
[Sidenote: Yokohama, July 22.]
At sea in the _Salamis_, _Serpent_, surveying vessel, Captain Bullock,
in company. Sir Harry Parkes to follow in _Basilisk_. Our object to
meet at Hakodadi, then proceed north and to the West Coast and decide
on the best port for trading purposes. Harbour, with calls to make,
visitors to receive, exercise to take, curio shops, etc., is not the
place to keep up a journal. After six days at Yedo, partaking of the
hospitality of Sir Harry and Lady Parkes, the _Salamis_ arrived and
took us back to Yokohama. I was promptly called on by the French
Admiral Rose, one of the most agreeable of Frenchmen, his chief of
staff, Flag-Lieutenant, and all appeared to be of same stamp.
I visited Monsieur Leon Roches, Minister Plenipotentiary, on whom, I
was informed, I ought to call; likewise a good fellow, and who appeared
to be, as described by his countryman Rose, more of the Zouave Colonel
than the Diplomatist. There is more to see and be amused with in
Yokohama than at most places. The Club is well managed by a ci-devant
marine officer, W. H. Smith, but that which makes the society and place
most agreeable is the presence of the 2nd Battalion of the 9th (Norfolk
Regiment), commanded by Colonel Knox. After having given me a grand
entertainment (proper word, I believe) we were made honorary members of
their mess. Then a party was formed to visit the statue of “Daibootz,”
a Great Bhudda. We were four sailors, with eight from the garrison, the
distance about 15 miles. Ponies were kindly lent to most of us, Mr. W.
Davison, P. and O. Agent, mounting me.
[Sidenote: July 24.]
We got away at 7.30. Most of the journey was performed Indian file, one
of the officers of 9th, well acquainted with the roads, leading the
way; but what made the single file more necessary was the viciousness
of the Japanese ponies, who obstinately refused every attempt on our
part to get them to associate with one another; a stamp, a scream, and
a kick follow in quick succession, if you are for a moment thrown off
your guard by the beauty of the surrounding scenery, which for constant
variety I never saw equalled.
About three hours brought us to the once celebrated (in Japanese
annals) city, now village, of Kama Kura, passing through which, and by
the entrances to grounds surrounding sacred temples, we came to the
end of a straight bit of road where a path turns off abruptly to the
right, leading to the famous bronze statue, but here we dismounted to
examine the spot and have again described to us the cruel murder which
took place in 1864 of two fine young fellows of the 20th Regiment,
Major Baldwin and Lieutenant Bird, who were cut down by some fanatical
Yakonie, while returning from a visit to the Great Bhudda.
The assassins were eventually executed in front of the English camp;
one of them requesting to chaunt a song before being executed, prided
himself on what he had done and would do again if he lived, and
cautioned his countrymen that the foreigner would take the country from
them. Had this fellow died fighting he might have been a patriot; as it
was, he and another committed a most dastardly murder on two unarmed
gentlemen by lying in ambush and striking behind.