BOUND FOR CHINA
[Sidenote: 1867. Malta, Mar. 2.]
It was half-past ten o’clock on the night of March 2nd when we
arrived at Malta. Clarence Paget came off; we landed together. Rem
Macdonald kept with me, but all the shops were closed, and the Carnival
commenced. Left a letter at Admiralty House and re-embarked.
We were off before daylight, and arrived at Alexandria on the 7th.
Here, met my old friend James Willoughby, who had been appointed Joint
Superintendent, with a military man, to attend the transit through
Egypt of our troops to India. It was about four when we reached
Cairo. Here we were joined by Harry Stephenson, who had come _viâ_
Southampton. We were informed that we were not to go on to Suez until
the following day. A rush was made to secure beds. The best had been
already bespoken by the Southampton passengers. However, Stephenson had
thought of us and secured rooms. The transit through Egypt is managed
by the Government. Most of the officials are French and wear the fez
and Egyptian uniform, as well as religion, for the time, with equal
ease.
[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
We made another start at 10 A.M. and took a plentiful supply of
oranges, which we found agreeable crossing the desert. At Suez I found
another friend in Dunn the Captain of the P. and O. steamer _Surat_;
we first became acquainted when he was in command of one of the hired
transports at Balaklava. He kindly took me in his gig to visit the
great dock and engineering works carried on by the French under M. de
Lesseps. Time, money, and perseverance will, I believe, complete the
great work of the Suez Canal. De Lesseps is sanguine at no distant
period of being able to pass a ship of the line from the Mediterranean
to the Red Sea. No English capitalists have, however, invested a
shilling in the affair, and the whole nation has come in for an amount
of abuse, attributing our reluctance to share in the French glory to
bad motives.
We did not get away until the morning of the 9th. Among our passengers
was Dr. Milman, the newly-appointed Bishop of Calcutta. He read prayers
on Sunday and gave us a short extemporary discourse. On Perim we have a
lighthouse: some eight years ago, the mail steamer on passing observed
a French brig-of-war surveying; and on the afternoon of the next day
the French captain mentioned to Colonel Coghlan, the Governor of Aden,
with whom he was dining, that he was going the next morning to take
possession of Perim in the name of the French Government. Coghlan,
without rising from table, or taking any apparent notice of what had
been said, pencilled a few words on a scrap of paper to the Captain
of Artillery ordering him to proceed at once with a party and hoist
the British colours on the island. The French captain’s disappointment
the next day when he found himself forestalled would have been worth
seeing. A correspondence took place between the two Governments; when
it was proved that we had prior possession during our war with France,
when we retained Perim, but under a promise we should not fortify it.
Cain is supposed to have been buried there, or thereabouts.
[Sidenote: Aden, Mar. 14.]
Early on Thursday morning we came to in Aden. The Resident, Colonel
Merewether, immediately sent off to invite me to Government House while
the _Surat_ coaled, and sent his carriage to the landing place. It was
pleasant to get into a cool airy house, and to write one’s letters
in peace and quiet. After dinner at three o’clock, we were taken to
see those wonderful water tanks that have lately been cleaned, whose
ancient date no one has been able to decide. The cement with which
the rock’s sides and bottom of the ravine are lined, as well as the
steps, is as perfect and in as good repair as if yesterday’s work. They
had had no rain for eighteen months, but an aqueduct was in progress,
which will shortly bring a supply from a stream some six miles distant.
Experienced much attention and kindness from Captain Dunn.
[Sidenote: Galle, Mar. 23.]
The cleanliness and comfort of the _Surat_ spoilt us for any other
vessel. Nevertheless, on arriving at Point de Galle at 8 A.M. on
the 23rd, we were transferred to _Ottawa_. The yards were manned as
the last little attention the Captain could pay me on quitting the
ship. On landing at Point de Galle I was received by Colonel Hodgson,
Brigadier-General and Commander-in-Chief. In the reign of George
II. this officer’s grandfather and the then Commodore Keppel had
been selected to act together for the capture of Belle Isle from the
French: a friendship between the families was then established and has
continued ever since. We passed the heat of the day in the “Queen’s
House,” occupied by the General, who, after having entertained us at
dinner, embarked with us on board the _Ottawa_: he going to the Straits
Settlements on an official inspection.
We found the _Ottawa_ comparatively small, ill ventilated, with a
suffocating smell of opium. But there was the same civility and
attention that we had experienced on board all the P. and O. Company’s
ships.
[Sidenote: Penang, Mar. 29.]
Anchored in Penang Roads. Went on shore during the six hours the
steamer was to stay, and visited my kind old friends, Mr. and Mrs.
Lewis, both Rodyks, and found one or two other friends of former days
still remaining.
[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]
Found the Straits much improved by a light-vessel, as well as by a good
light on Cape Ricardo.
[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 31.]
Sunday at 2 P.M. the _Ottawa_ steamed alongside the P. and O. Company’s
wharf in New Harbour, Singapore. Captains Edge of _Satellite_, Ross of
_Pearl_, Menzies of _Osprey_, and Suttie of _Salamis_ were there to
receive me, as well as friend W. H. Read and the Governor’s secretary,
Mr. Plow, brother to a lad who was with me in the _Forte_. Many other
friends were also there.
As the new Governor, Sir Harry Ord, was to be installed in due form on
the morrow, a few arrangements for salutes and officers’ attendance had
to be made. At 3 P.M. my flag was hoisted on board the _Salamis_ and I
became Commander-in-Chief of the China station, and, being senior, at
once assumed the duties. It being Sunday negatived the salute until the
following morning. On landing was driven by friend Read to his house,
where, by previous arrangement, took up my quarters.
[Sidenote: April 1.]
Read’s house was on one of the numerous hills, each of which is crowned
by a residence. On looking out in the early morning from the verandah,
an extensive view in front of the town and anchorage, and from behind
of the country inland. How many associations of bygone days--some sad,
but many more, pleasant--were brought to mind.
The morning commenced by saluting my flag. At noon we repaired to
the Town Hall to assist in the inauguration of the new Governor, and
the transfer of Straits Settlements from the Indian to the Colonial
Government. Separate salutes were fired on each occasion: an event in
the history of Singapore.
[Sidenote: April 1 to 4.]
Read kindly allotted a room in his new godown, which was close to a
landing-place, for an office, and the business of the station under the
new Chief was commenced. Receiving and returning visits occupied much
time, and in evenings, dinners to meet the Governor, the Military and
Naval Commanders-in-Chief, were the order of the day. The weather was
hot and the weight of epaulettes at these ceremonious dinners told.
[Sidenote: April 5.]
Early on the morning of the 5th, and sooner than was expected,
the _Princess Royal_ hove in sight. It seldom happens that a
Commander-in-Chief is relieved by a senior, and more than the usual
amount of jealousy between those in command and those whose reign was
so suddenly at an end took place. However, I found my old friend George
King the same as ever. Inspected _Salamis_ and examined the comfortable
quarters that had been fitted for the use of self and staff.
[Sidenote: April 6.]
Returned King’s visit; was received on board _Princess Royal_ with
manned yards; finished with an excellent luncheon and inspection of the
many curios collected in Japan and elsewhere. Nephew Augustus Hill on
board in R.M.L.I.
[Sidenote: April 8.]
_Princess Royal_ was off at daylight. Had King been senior, I have no
doubt but that he would have remained longer.
[Sidenote: April 13.]
The _Pearl_ started in advance of us for Sarawak. Ross had permission
to use his own discretion about going up to the town. Paid a visit
to the Tumongong of Johore, who now styles himself “Maharajah.” I
recollect him in his father’s time in different circumstances. He has
been to England, received at Court, and decorated with the Star of
India.
[Sidenote: Singapore, April 14.]
Among the improvements at Singapore is an exceedingly neat and handsome
church. No want of opportunities for writing to England, as the French
packets run alternate weeks with the regular P. and O. Company.
There are few ships without a favourite dog--in _Salamis_ Suttie has
one Carlo, an intelligent mongrel and great favourite. On shore he can
take his own part, although not too big. He is besides a good pointer
as well as retriever.
[Sidenote: April 15.]
I had fixed 15th April for the inspection of the _Satellite_ as well
as that for our departure for Sarawak, Labuan, Manilla, and Hong-Kong.
Before leaving the _Salamis_, I had a visit from M. Troplong, the
French Consul, who was very anxious that we should join his nation in
avenging the defeat they had experienced last year at the hands of the
Coreans.
While I was inspecting the _Satellite_, my friend General Hodgson, with
Colonel Young, went on board the _Salamis_, which then got under weigh,
W. H. Read and Goodlake with us. _Satellite_ hoisted flag and saluted
the General on his leaving. There was consternation on board on its
being discovered that Carlo was nowhere to be found. His description
was written out and a reward offered on shore for his recovery, but it
was unfortunately the season when the policemen are directed to destroy
all stray dogs. Alas, poor Carlo!
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, April 16.]
Observing from the bridge one of these small Nipa Palm islands floating
ahead, and not having gone to quarters when I inspected the _Salamis_,
I thought this would be a good opportunity, so we beat to quarters and
opened fire on the floating island.
In the middle of the rushing about incidental to going to quarters, and
with the first cartridge, who should turn up but the dog Carlo, jumping
with delight on his master and everybody else. Welcome little dog!
the last time the magazine was opened was on Sunday, when the gunner
went down at 8.40 P.M. to get a cartridge for the nine o’clock gun, it
being dark, the dog must have got locked in. How he existed or what his
feelings were in that atmosphere he knows best. If I had not fancied
the Nipa Palm for a target, poor Carlo might have been smothered or
starved to death.
[Sidenote: April 17.]
[Sidenote: Sarawak.]
Early morning found us off Tanjong Datu; before eight we had passed the
Santobong entrance, and soon after rounded Tanjong Sipang and stood
for the Maratobas entrance to the Sarawak River. These bold headlands
and magnificent scenery, although I had visited them frequently since,
brought fresh to my mind some five-and-twenty years ago, when I first
came up in the _Dido_ with James Brooke on board, and gave the first,
and nearly the only, help he ever had in securing his position; thereby
enabling him to carry out his philanthropic views for the benefit of
a strange race. If he has not succeeded to the full extent of his,
then, sanguine hopes, still there is no man living or to come who,
single-handed, will have benefited his fellow-creatures to the extent
Brooke has.
In 1842 piracy, slavery, and head-hunting were the order of the day.
The sail of a peaceful trader was nowhere to be seen, not even a
fisherman’s hut along the length of this beautiful coast. Far into
the interior the Malays and Dyaks warred on one another. Now, how
different! Huts and fishing-stakes are to be seen all along the coast;
the town of Kuching, which on the visit of the _Dido_ had scarcely 800
inhabitants, now has a population of over 20,000. At least 250,000 of
the aborigines who called themselves warriors are now peaceful traders
and cultivators of the soil. The jungle is fast being cleared to make
way for farms; and to prove what industry can do, Miss Burdett-Coutts
has taken a tract of 500 acres of jungle--far from being the most
productive soil that could be found--where everything that is likely
to thrive within the tropics will be introduced into this model farm.
Fruits such as pineapple, bananas, mangosteens, and oranges were doing
well. Rice and sago, mulberry trees to feed silkworms, were all in
progress.
On arriving up the river at the Quop junction, we found the _Pearl_ had
proceeded up, drawing over 19 feet water. Rejoicing in our steaming up
this beautiful river, and just abreast of a shelf of rocks on which
I so nearly lost the _Dido_, I found that my ill-luck in finding the
bottom had not forsaken me. I believe the helm was ported to avoid
running down a canoe that attempted to cross our bows. And we were
bumped hard upon the rocks! With a rising tide we did not remain, but
we knew not until long afterwards what mischief was done.
On approaching the capital, the _Pearl_ saluted my flag, and after
coming to an anchor higher up, she hoisted the flag and saluted that
of Sarawak. A guard of honour received me on landing, where I was met
by my old friend and shipmate, Charles Johnson, now Tuan Muda. He had
changed his name to that of Brooke. A nice boy, spoilt by assuming a
name he was then unfit for! _Pearl_ had not escaped the _Dido_ rocks,
and Captain Ross brought on board _Salamis_ a piece of false keel and
sheets of copper, which divers found displaced! These accidents are sad
bores, occurring too at a time when I wished to establish a reputation
at the Admiralty as a cautious and careful chief.
[Sidenote: April 18.]
_Pearl_ started against the afternoon flood-tide to precede us to
Labuan. We remained a few days to enjoy the hospitality of the Tuan
Muda, who repeatedly expressed the good effect our visit would
have--the influence which would be felt to the farther end of the
Rajah’s dominions.
All the native chiefs came to visit me, the “Rajah Laut” (Sea King)
as they styled me, but most of my original friends who had fought for
the suppression of piracy had passed away. All the occurrences of that
stirring time were fresh in the memory of the children, and old Patingi
Alli’s son was now one of the principal chiefs, a most useful and
worthy man. His gallant old father was killed with many others while
serving with the _Dido’s_ boats.
In the evenings we rode with the Tuan Muda along a two-mile road, cut
through that ever interesting and magnificent jungle.
[Sidenote: April 20.]
About three in the afternoon we took our departure, the Tuan Muda
having supplied us with turkeys and geese that would have done credit
to a Norfolk farm. A sumpitan, a necklace, and three Dyak swords, some
deer horns and alligators’ eggs, were among the curios we brought away.
The Tuan Muda is quiet, reserved, and gentlemanlike, with
a determination not to be surpassed, with a sense of
justice--qualifications fully appreciated by the chiefs.
[Sidenote: Labuan, April 22.]
8 A.M.--Came to in Victoria Harbour, Labuan. Several old friends came
on board--Hugh Low, Acting-Governor; Claude de Crespigny, Harbour
Master, formerly a lieutenant with me; and Dr. Treacher, one of the
Rajah’s earliest followers. Each of them I had known some twenty years
before. All the troops, part of a Sepoy regiment, formed a guard to
receive me on landing, when I became the guest of my friend Low. His
daughter has just come out from home, a nice-looking girl, not quite
seventeen. Her mother was a daughter of “Billy” Napier, and came out
with me in the _Mæander_. I was present at her wedding with Low. The
poor girl died at Labuan when her daughter, who is very like her, was
but two years old. Mrs. Low’s grave is in one of the loveliest spots of
Low’s beautiful garden, hidden from view by a grove of orange trees.
The boy, Brooke Low, is still in England. Low and De Crespigny kindly
added to my collection of shells. Harry Stephenson and self were put up
at Government House. W. H. Read and Goodlake, he being the bearer of a
letter from Yelverton, were received elsewhere.
_Salamis_ proceeded in the afternoon to Coal Point. The island of
Labuan having been ceded by the Sultan of Brunei, was taken possession
of in the name of the Government by Captain Rodney Mundy under Sir
Thomas Cochrane, on account of the coal mines. These mines, owing to
bad management and a jobbing company, have not succeeded as they might
have done, but the island has been useful in other ways. Our occupation
has driven piracy from the N.W. Coast, though it is still rife to the
eastward of Borneo. The slave trade has likewise had a check, and their
treatment on the opposite coast has been ameliorated, as it is known
that slaves have only to escape to British territory to be free. Power
has passed from the Sultan and his chiefs.
We had a Consul at Brunei once, but he has been replaced by a native
agent. The United States are represented by a disagreeable scamp named
Moss, who has hitherto lived by his wits. He persuaded the Sultan to
cede to him a portion of the north-eastern coast, as well as some of
the adjacent islands, to none of which had the Sultan any just claim;
fortunately no valid agreement was drawn up. When Mr. Moss had to make
a first deposit, no money was forthcoming; he enlisted a countryman,
by name Terrie, who was to find the needful and go partners on
condition that the property ceded was to be placed in his name.[4] The
title-deeds were returned to the Sultan to be altered. In the meantime
they fell out. No money was forthcoming, and the Sultan retained the
title-deeds, which Mr. Moss wished to have returned to him.
[4] This portion of the island was ceded to the British North Borneo
Company by Royal Charter in 1881.
As Mr. Moss could now neither borrow nor steal, he decided on the dodge
of setting fire to his own house, and accused the Sultan of having
instigated his people to do it, hoping not only to be revenged for the
detention of the title-deeds, but to receive indemnification. But the
cleverest fellows outwit themselves: the fact of his having removed
his wife and small effects to Labuan a few days previously, and then
the statement that he was fired on twelve times with musketry, which no
one heard, are facts.
On Wednesday, being mounted by Low, we rode through the magnificent
jungle peculiar to Labuan, by the Coal Point Road; eight miles brought
us there. At 10 A.M. went on board _Pearl_, under manned yards, and
inspected a perfect man-of-war. She sailed in the afternoon for
Hong-Kong; we took until night to complete coal and followed in the
morning; steering for the Palawan passage with every prospect of fine
weather.