SHORE TIME
[Sidenote: 1861. Oct.]
Although surrounded by friends, England to me was no longer the same
happy place. I felt aggrieved and annoyed. Jane West kindly undertook
to share my troubles.
[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]
The marriage ceremony was performed by her brother Richard, assisted by
the Rev. Hon. Robert Liddell, Vicar of St. Paul’s, Knightsbridge.
[Sidenote: Nov.]
We went abroad, travelled through France and Italy: remained some time
in Florence, met many kind friends, visited the churches and shops
without the means of purchasing. On convenient occasions my good wife
invited me to join in prayer. Anxious to display my French, usually
answered, “Toujours près.”
[Sidenote: Paris, Dec. 14.]
The good Prince Consort departed this life. Her poor Majesty! Universal
grief!
[Sidenote: 1862. Jan. 10.]
Returned to England. We retook possession of our cottage at
Bishopstoke, although I had a kind and good tenant in Sir John Bayley,
owner of the _Nymph_, a 61-ton cutter yacht lying at Southampton; he
kindly vacated the cottage. While arrangements were being made, we took
lodgings in Sloane Street, my wife’s parents living in Cadogan Place.
[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]
Son Colin was born, an event which took off the rough edge of
discontent. The gallant Clyde stood godfather. Am not going to bore
my readers with particulars of my shore life. I may state that I still
had kind friends, and enjoyed the best of shooting; also, being a light
weight, had frequent mounts with hounds.
[Sidenote: 1863. Jan. 1.]
Heard of Princess Alice’s accident at Broadlands, Isle of Wight. Her
phaeton was overturned, but H.R.H. fortunately not much hurt. The Hon.
Mrs. Bruce was in attendance.
[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]
The Prince of Wales took his seat for the first time in the House of
Lords. Navy much exercised about the building of ironclads.
[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
Attended Prince of Wales’s levée with Eyre. Over a thousand
presentations, besides seventeen hundred who attended. Amongst other
old shipmates, met Prince Victor of Hohenlohe.
[Sidenote: Mar. 7.]
This was indeed a happy and exciting day for London. The arrival and
procession through the city and streets by the most lovely Princess
that ever visited this country. The excitement and fatigue must have
been great, but Her Royal Highness allowed no one to see it.
[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]
Marriage of the Prince and Princess of Wales at Windsor.
* * * * *
As before mentioned, I was fond of a race, as was my brother-in-law,
Sir Joseph Hawley; he had engaged Porter as his trainer. I amused
myself at Kingsclere and learned something. Settled down at the
cottage, Bishopstoke.
[Sidenote: April 20.]
My brother Tom died at Brighton. He had been for some time in delicate
health. In 1856 I took him to the Cape for the sea voyage. He was
buried at Quidenham.
[Sidenote: May 18.]
At Epsom races. Derby won by Mr. R. C. Naylor’s “Macaroni.” Stakes
valued at £7200.
[Sidenote: May 22.]
Oaks won by Lord Valentine’s “Queen Bertha.”
[Sidenote: June 4.]
Cup Day, Ascot. A brilliant meeting. First appearance of Prince and
Princess of Wales. Cup won by Mr. Merry’s “Buckstone.”
[Sidenote: Aug. 14.]
My much-esteemed friend Lord Clyde died, aged seventy-one.... Attended
his funeral on 21st.
[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
The King of the Greeks, brother to the Princess of Wales, arrived in
England.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: Dec.]
The River Itchen running between my kitchen and flower-garden, was
full of trout, and there was a small summer-house through which I
could conduct a running stream from the river. I wrote to Mr. Buckland
to help me in breeding trout. In the upper part of the summer-house
I had a tank, which could be renovated and a small stream of water
introduced into a succession of troughs of spawn,--these overflowed
into each other. It was great fun watching the tiny things come to life
and gradually increase in size, until it was time to put them into the
river. Chamberlayne and others, through whose property the Itchen ran,
took a great interest in the experiment. From my little preserve on the
Itchen, Frank Buckland stocked the rivers in Tasmania with trout, which
has proved very successful.
[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]
Heard with deep regret of the death of Thackeray. He had, some years
before, proposed me as a member of the Cosmopolitan Club, a pleasant
gathering of Bohemians, who met as a rule about midnight in Watt’s
Studio, Charles Street, Berkeley Square. Up to the end of its days my
name was up on the walls of the Club as “absent on special business.”...
[Sidenote: 1864. Jan. 8.]
Poor Denmark was not getting on in her war with Prussia; offered my
services. But the rank of Vice-Admiral interfered.
[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]
Prince of Wales at University Boat Race, attended by General Knollys
and Colonel Keppel.
[Sidenote: Apr. 3.]
Garibaldi arrived at Southampton. Landed in his full uniform: red
shirt, felt hat, and walking-stick. He was taken by Mr. Seely of iron
pigs notoriety over Portsmouth Dockyard. Garibaldi, after three weeks’
visit, left in the Duke of Sutherland’s yacht _Undine_ for Caprera.
[Sidenote: June 20.]
Capture of _Alabama_ by Federal cruiser _Kearsage_.
* * * * *
Three millions afterwards paid by England! So much for arbitration!
[Sidenote: July 6.]
Bishopstoke being near Southampton, was a good deal on board Tom
Chamberlayne’s (of Cranberry) yacht the _Arrow_, R.Y.S.; at that
period had not been beaten. Fred Delmé Radcliffe had a nice yacht, the
_Freak_, but nothing could pass _Arrow_. Being an honorary member of
the Royal Yacht Squadron, consoled myself as best I could. Astonishing
how sailing improves the appetite. Off Hurst Castle was our host’s
favourite anchorage.
[Sidenote: Guernsey, July 7.]
Charles Radcliffe joined. Guernsey, too, was a favourite anchorage.
Market well supplied with fruit and vegetables, but you should not
spoil your appetite by looking at the disgusting conger-eel.
[Sidenote: July 8.]
Breakfasted off mackerel caught just before. After breakfast joined by
Delmé Radcliffe and son Herbert. We started in hopes of engaging one
Lanourie, a celebrated salt-water fisherman, but found he was already
engaged by Mr. Petre of the _Osprey_. Arrived _Eugenie_, R.Y.S.; joined
by Fred Delmé Radcliffe; had a good dinner with Frankland and Colonel
Denny.
[Sidenote: _Arrow_ yacht, July 9.]
On the highest part in the centre of the town is a granite tower
erected in memory of Her Majesty’s visit. After a climb up a spiral
staircase, we obtained a view of the island. The tide being out, the
numerous rocks appeared as if they had risen like pinnacles from the
deep; makes one feel thankful one is not the owner of a yacht. During
the night we were joined by the _Firefly_, Sir H. Oglander. A strong
north-easter made us prisoners. Chamberlayne has a party at Cranberry,
and I am due at home! News of Friday’s debate in the House on vote of
censure. The position of Federal troops in Virginia critical.
[Sidenote: July 10.]
By steamer to Cowes; dined with Sir Thomas Whichcote on board his
_Enchantress_.
[Sidenote: July 11.]
Landed early at Southampton, on to Bishopstoke, saw wife and kid
(Colin), returned to _Enchantress_, and off with first of south-wester
to the eastward. Monty Thorold on board. Frankland in _Eugenie_ had got
start, but we caught her up this side of Beachy Head. Took Dutch pilot.
[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
Readers rejoice. Some friend has borrowed a month of my journal and
left me neither on shore nor afloat.
[Sidenote: Aug. 12.]
Sunset not far from the Sluis Gate entrance. Detained a couple of hours
for want of water. Worked over the bar and came to in Goree Channel
shortly after midnight.
[Sidenote: Aug. 13.]
_Eugenie_ brought up outside the bar. Having worked up to Helvets Maas,
changed pilot and hauled into entrance of Vourme Canal. Here had to
wait our turn. _Eugenie_ rejoined; got through first tack. Taken in tow
by horses, to me a novel mode of travelling. Canal about six miles in
length. Secured inside the lock.
On passing through, saw sundry partridges, hares, wild duck, and
plover; cattle, carts and carriages, latter primitive in appearance. At
noon anchored off Rotterdam. Landed in afternoon; ascended the Church
Tower, magnificent and extensive view. Inside the church are two good
sculptures of Admirals de Witt and Coremiar. Town clean. Corry and
Conellan dined with us.
[Sidenote: Aug. 15.]
[Sidenote: The Hague.]
Started by train for the Hague. Visited Museum and Picture Gallery.
Lunched at a Café by the way, particularly clean. We then drove to
the King’s Country Palace, distant some miles; road shaded by some of
the tallest oaks and elms I ever saw. At the Palace we were civilly
received by the servants. Although the Queen was residing in it, we
were shown over the charming country residence. On our preparing to
leave, a footman suggested writing our names in a book lying open on a
side-table. I had no other costume than a pea-jacket and sailor’s hat.
We had just turned into the road from the outer gate, when a messenger
came running with Her Majesty’s commands for my return, when I was sent
for, and received by Her Majesty Queen Sophie Frederique Mathilde at
the door of the ante-room, and desired to follow her into a charming
boudoir. After a few kind words, I was desired to sit down. Her
Majesty hoped that I had not forgotten my Dutch extraction, and other
kind expressions. I mentioned that I had had the honour of being a
Groom-in-Waiting to Her Majesty Queen Victoria. I was allowed to kiss
the royal hand on departing: my friends having kindly waited in the
carriage, enjoying the fragrant weed.
On our way back we visited the bazaars. A more curious collection of
pretty things I had never seen. Returned by train, and so on board the
pretty and beautifully clean _Enchantress_, having seen a good deal,
and I, in particular, well pleased by the reception I had received. The
_Eugenies_ came to dine.
[Sidenote: Aug. 16.]
In the evening my new friend Mr. Itmann came on board and agreed to
accompany us to Amsterdam.
[Sidenote: Amsterdam, Aug. 17.]
By 9.15 train. Two flys took us from the station at Amsterdam to the
Palace. We first mounted the belfry and had a fine view of Zuyder Zee
and surrounding country. We came in for a tune on the bells, as well as
the striking the hour of noon on the more ponderous one. The Palace is
as dismal and as uninteresting a building as one could well go through.
Old Spanish flags and other trophies taken from their greatest enemy
are suspended in the Throne Room. There is a large picture by Wappers
of the gallant young officer, Van Speyk, who blew his ship up, with
himself and crew, after getting on shore, when boarded by the Belgians
in 1831.
We went to the picture-gallery; an ill-arranged building, but
containing some good pictures. Amsterdam, with its trade and canal
streets, is very like Rotterdam. At 5 P.M. we returned by a train
_viâ_ Utrecht; but there is so much sameness about this great grazing,
cattle-supporting country, that unless I had been told I should have
thought we were returning by the same line. In Amsterdam we had
luncheon at a restaurant, but the cooking not much, although things
were clean. Got on board _Enchantress_ a little after seven.
[Sidenote: Rotterdam, Aug. 18.]
After luncheon went on shore with Itmann and examined a small galliot
pleasure-boat, of about eighteen or twenty feet in length, and to
which I had taken a fancy. For her length, as comfortable as a vessel
could be, the middle part decked over. Mast and sails fitted, and for
stability as safe as a church. Should like to have her in the Itchen,
off Bishopstoke. Weather bad.
[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]
Weighed at 11 A.M. Wind just sufficient to allow us, with ebb tide, to
fetch down, which we did cleverly in one hour. Same distance when going
up taking us four hours, in tow of a dirty steamer. Arrived at Nieuwe
Sluys entrance to the Vourme Canal at noon. Process of getting through
the lock gates slow. We heard of a large ship coming through yesterday,
requiring forty-two horses to tow her up. By 2 P.M. we were through the
gates, and, with the assistance of the foresail, wind abeam, kept the
three horses at the tow rope in a jog-trot. _Eugenie_ having had half
an hour’s start, made sail and slipped away without the encumbrance
of horses, and was, partly owing to the haze, out of sight ahead. The
canal is crossed by sundry bridges which draw up, and the passing
between the posts requires a nicety in steering. In meeting vessels it
is customary, or rather it is the printed law, to keep to the right
or starboard side. At about 3.40 a deeply-laden English collier was
observed most pertinaciously keeping the mid-channel, as if she did
not intend to give way an inch to, what she most likely considered us,
the weaker vessel; in vain we hauled in so close to the shore that one
might have reached it with a moderate length of foot: however, we had
all but squeezed through, when the _Leveret_, of Whitby, at last, and
when too late, put her helm a-port, thereby throwing her quarter very
rudely against _Enchantress’s_ bow, by which she lost a whisker and had
her cathead and upper works considerably damaged; to say nothing of the
foresail, which was rent in twain.
The nimble _Leveret_ did not escape without a scratch, inasmuch as
_Enchantress’s_ anchor having hooked the _Leveret’s_ main rigging,
tore away three of the shrouds, and having cleared her upper works fore
and aft, the anchor finding nothing left to hold on by, tumbled into
the water and was soon weighed, catted, and fished. While we proceeded
on our way, the collier was observed to rush frantically into the
rushes on the wrong bank of the river.
At 4 P.M. we brought up at Helviotsluys end of the canal. All
appearances of a gale of wind, although in the right direction, we are
better inside the canal.
[Sidenote: Helviotsluys, Aug. 21.]
Gale continuing, but glass rising. If wind veers to eastward the sea
must go down a bit. Visit from the _Eugenies_ or Irish Brigade, who
likewise had been in some danger by a huge steamer. Whichcote, not
intending the lubberly _Leveret_ to escape the punishment due, sent
Haywood, his master, back to Rotterdam by steamer to lay the case
before Her Majesty’s Consul and proper authorities; this, however, may
detain us another day, as the master cannot be back before to-morrow.
Landed and visited the town, which is entered by a drawbridge, and
surrounded by a ditch. Fortifications in tolerable repair, but no
guns mounted: they were lying in rows inside one of the bastions. In
the centre of the town was an old 50-gun frigate, for the training of
youths for their navy. In the evening the _Eugenies_ came on board and
we had a rubber.
[Sidenote: Aug. 22.]
_Eugenie_ got through the gates at an early hour, but brought up
outside. Gale over, glass rising, but no easterly wind. A young
Dutchman, probably an attorney’s clerk, came on board, the bearer of
a letter from the master of the _Leveret_, the purport of which was
that he should send Whichcote a bill of damages as soon as his defects
were made good. Tom Whichcote, having read the document, tore it up
and threw it overboard, and told the messenger he might tell Mr. Clark
(the master of the _Leveret_) to go to a hot place. The scribe having
remarked that Sir Thomas had a peculiar way of conducting business,
retired in haste. In the afternoon a pilot came on board and conducted
us through the gates--an operation we could have done as well. Came to
outside preparatory to a start in the morning.
[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]
Got pilot on board. Weather hazy. Wind hanging to W.S.W. Message from
the Irish Brigade proposing to keep the inner water and so go down to
Flushing; not a bad idea, to which we agreed. Landed sea pilot and
tried for a river one; only one in store, so settled to wait. At 9 A.M.
observed _Eugenie_ working down for the sea. However, Tom Whichcote was
not to be influenced into again changing his mind; having got on board
a river pilot, we weighed and ran to S.E., keeping between certain
black and white buoys.
After rounding the S.E. end of Goree and Overflacker, the tide having
fallen, and the channel narrow and wind in our faces, we came to.
Observed sundry seals basking in the sun on the patches of drying sand
left by the falling tide. _Eugenie_ and ourselves no longer in company,
and as their manœuvring scented somewhat of the humbug it was not to be
regretted. Having been to-day at noon in 4° 5´ E. Long.--wonder whether
I shall ever be so far _East_ again.
These Dutch pilots, although well acquainted with shoals and dangers,
do not understand the handling of a fast fore and aft rigged schooner.
They have no idea of the time they are in stays, nor of the length of
time they hold their way; consequently, instead of merely pointing out
to the captain of the vessel the dangers or shoals he had to avoid,
took to working her himself and twice fixed her on the mud bank. The
second time she was only got off by a rising tide. Much time was lost,
and we brought up for the night earlier than we otherwise should.
[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]
Weighed at an early hour, with a southerly wind. Haywood, the master,
appeared to have had enough of narrow channels and mud banks, so took
the Keeten Mast Channel, leading to the southward, and we stood on to
Brouwershaven, where we came to at 9 A.M. to wait tide, change pilot
for a deep-sea one, and obtain provisions. This being the main channel
for large ships to Helviotsluys and Rotterdam, we found several French,
American, and Dutch.
Water being low as we came down, the banks were covered with various
birds. Two of the crew landed in the night and had got within twenty
yards of a flock of wild ducks, but, unsportmanlike, they had neglected
to examine their guns, which obstinately refused to go off, so the
ducks did! At 11.30 boat returned with a regular old salt as sea pilot;
not much to be done in the way of grub, and the only newspaper, dated
Friday last, was in the possession of one of the American skippers,
with most likely news from the States.
Weighed, wind W.S.W., fresh ebb tide; worked out cleverly; twelve miles
before we were clear of the outer shoals; discharged pilot and took our
departure from the Fairway buoy. I took the helm. A refreshing breeze,
but rising sea. Name it not, but at four, dinner-time, my old inside
revolted. I felt so sea-sick that I preferred turning in, to facing
dinner. Made a second attempt at supper-time with same result. By 11.30
made Lowestoft Light.
[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]
At noon we were off the North Foreland. Dirty weather; we wisely came
to in Margate Roads. Glass falling; westerly gale.
[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]
Gale continuing. Got _Daily Telegraph_ from a stranger, but neither he
nor three others could tell what horse had won the Ebor Handicap last
week at York!
[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]
Sad death of friend Speke. Accidentally shot getting over a stone wall
near Box, Bath.
[Sidenote: Oct.]
It was about this time that my kind friends at Singapore realised the
position in which I was placed. Now that the subject of the transfer of
the Straits Settlements from the India to the Colonial Office was under
the consideration of the Government, I think my friends were almost
unanimous in wishing that I should be appointed Governor of the Straits
Settlements.