EAST COAST SPORT
[Sidenote: 1860. Aug.]
After leaving Delagoa Bay it was not much out of our way to pass the
small island of Europa, said to abound in turtle.
[Sidenote: Europa Island, Aug. 2.]
We made it at about 9 P.M. on Thursday, August 2. The moon was at
its full. Although a partial eclipse darkened it for a while, by the
time we were off the north end of the island the moon shone out in
full splendour. It was thought that nothing would be easier than to
heave the ship to and send a boat in and bring off as many turtle as
we required. At 10 P.M. a party shoved off in the cutter, and shortly
afterwards Heneage, O’Rorke, and self left in the galley.
We found a sea breaking on a reef that bounded the coast, but farther
to the west the breakers became smaller as we got under its lee. A
coral reef extending along the coast a full half mile from the shore
was clearly distinguishable. Watching our opportunity we got on to
shelving coral, it being dead low water, and then found that we had a
good quarter of a mile to haul her over water which varied from nothing
to six or eight feet with deep holes. However, these were made clear by
the light of the moon, and nothing was left but to haul the boat over,
or return on board. The water deepened into a comparatively clear
space between it and the shore, forming a sort of lagoon. The boat was
easily pushed through this, and we landed shortly after midnight.
Leaving the remainder to light a fire and prepare for a night’s
bivouac, O’Rorke and self started along the beach to the westward to
look for turtle. Although there were the tracks of many in the sand, we
had travelled two miles before we came to marks that appeared fresh. A
large turtle had been coquetting about, as is their wont, in search of
a fit spot in the dry sand to deposit her cargo of eggs.
In this instance, it was evident that the old lady had been difficult
to please, as after many turns and windings the track led again inland;
and sure enough, ten yards from the beach, then about eight inches
deep, appeared a small oval-shaped hillock, exposed by day to the heat
of the sun. It was evident, when we got alongside, the turtle was
sleeping away the time until the rising tide had lifted her high enough
to allow of her proceeding to sea for further amusement.
The first she must have known of our presence was by the feel of our
hands under the outer edge of her shell--a sort of tickling under
the ribs--by which we endeavoured to turn her on her back. This she
resented by striking out with all four fins, and not only covering
O’Rorke with sand and water, but sending me sprawling on my back.
Luckily she was aground.
O’Rorke started into the jungle, returning presently with two branches,
the best he could get, to act as levers, with which to turn her over.
This was a far more troublesome job than we expected. The weight of
the brute alone was 360 lbs., and the strength of the foremost fins
wonderful; however, after considerable twisting and manœuvring we
managed, with our levers, to get her off side to the edge of a hollow
about eight feet by six, and with this advantage, and a heave together,
we turned her over. There she lay on her back flapping wet sand, but
comparatively helpless. The tide was now rising, and there was nothing
left but for O’Rorke to return to where we had left the boat for
assistance, leaving me to manage the best I could. I suppose I am the
first Admiral who ever kept the middle watch on a turtle. As the sea
rose over the outer reef it came rolling in to where I was seated, and
as each roller lifted my charge she renewed her struggles to get rid of
me. Our object was to keep her head towards the sandy beach, which rose
rather abruptly, by inserting one end of the lever, which was crooked,
under her back and behind her fore fins when she raised herself up,
which she did whenever a roller came to her assistance. To prevent
her floating, I seated myself on her stomach. By these means I caused
her to heave herself in nearer the shore, but in doing this I got so
plastered with wet sand that I must have had the appearance of a small
pyramid. At another time she gave me such a slap on the knee, I thought
my leg was broken; the pain was great.
I never had so troublesome a watch; it appeared to me O’Rorke had been
hours away, although the good fellow had run there and back. Having to
keep 360 lbs. weight struggling to save its embryo family from being
made into omelets, herself into “soups and steaks,” as I saw afterwards
chalked on her back, was no small undertaking. Nor can I describe my
delight when some of the boat’s crew hove in sight. Another struggle
with the brute and I must have given in or have been carried out to sea
holding on to the hind fins, like my friend King George of Tonga Tabu.
[Illustration: _My middle watch._]
Having secured our turtle, a further walk along the sandy beach, a bend
to the S.W. brought us within reach of unpleasant smells, and close to
a projecting point, within sight of the remains of a huge whale, from
which rats, by thousands, were rushing towards the jungle; when the
crabs, to say nothing of conger eels, cleared the bones of the monster,
they fell to the ground.
We secured several joints of the backbone, which, when cleaned and
covered with canvas, were formed into curious camp stools, in my garden
at Bishopstoke. How the monster got where we found him, over the
half-mile of coral-bound coast, we wondered; unless the unfortunate
brute was thrown over the reef and stranded during one of those fearful
hurricanes which visit these latitudes.
[Sidenote: Europa Island, Aug. 2.]
The shooting was not much. There were some goats running wild; the sire
of this stock was described as a magnificent fellow, with an immense
beard and strong smell. A few pigeons were seen, but so unaccustomed
were they to the intrusion of human beings as to allow themselves, when
fatigued, to be chased from bush to bush, knocked over by stones or
sticks. The frigate birds, some black, visit these latitudes.
[Sidenote: Aug. 3.]
Much excitement was caused at low tide by our men chasing, between the
openings of the coral, rock cod, conger-eels, and parrot fish--the
latter of a brilliant green colour, some of them weighing four or five
pounds.
[Sidenote: Mozambique, Aug. 7.]
5 P.M.--Came to in Mozambique Harbour in 5-1/2 fathoms. A berth that
would suit the _Forte_. Care to be taken running in, in a long ship.
Saluted Portuguese flag. Like most Portuguese forts, on a grand scale,
but the guns are small and out of date; about 100 men. A few small
vessels at anchor. Trade small, principally in ivory, rhinoceros horns,
and ebony. Slaver in disguise. Was received by the Governor, Don Joao
Tavares de Almeida, who did me the honour of dining with me on board.
No Consul. One Don Joao de Costa Sourez most obliging.
[Sidenote: Aug. 9.]
7 A.M.--Weighed, made sail.
[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
Having been in these seas before, I cautioned Captain de Horsey to
keep a good look-out for slavers. We were running under sail with
light southerly winds, and proposed fires being lighted and banked up.
De Horsey was particular about desecrating the Sabbath, but in the
afternoon a sail was reported. Later she was made out from the masthead
standing to the eastward. I advised De Horsey to take his glass and see
for himself.
Before he was half-way up the fore-rigging I gave the order to light
the fires. The smoke had no sooner ascended than the look-out on the
fore-top-gallant yard sang out, “She’s gone round without taking her
studding sails in.” The wind fell light by sunset. We stopped engines
under the stern of a fine rakish-looking ship. Lieutenant Adeane was
sent on board, and took possession of the _Manuela_, formerly the
_Sunny South_, a Rio packet of upwards of 702 tons. She had 846 slaves
on board, and was waiting to complete 900 before proceeding round
the Cape to Cuba. She had been hovering off the coast for weeks to
complete her cargo. We sent her into Pomony. I went on board, she was
a fine-looking ship, seven feet between decks. However, on looking down
the fore hatchway, the stench was intolerable. Sent prize in charge of
Lieutenant Burlton to the Mauritius.