ASCENDING THE MISSISSIPPI.

Westward from Lake Michigan all the railroads are laid across the

prairie land _en route_ to various cities on the Mississippi River,

several of them having St. Paul and Minneapolis for their objective

points, although some go by quite roundabout ways. The great "Father

of Waters" comes from Northern Minnesota, flows over the Falls of St.

Anthony at Minneapolis, and is a river of much scenic attractiveness

down to Dubuque and Rock Island, its width being usually about three

thousand feet, excepting at the bends, which are wider, the

picturesque bluffs enclosing the valley sometimes rising six hundred

feet high. The railways leading to it traverse the monotonous level of

prairie in Illinois and Wisconsin, excepting where a stream may make a

gorge, and the face of the country is everywhere almost the same. The

Moline Rapids in the Mississippi above Rock Island afford good

water-power, and here the Government, owning the island, has

established a large arsenal, which is the base for all the western

army supplies. The admirable location has made cities on either bank,

Rock Island in Illinois and Davenport in Iowa, both being commercial

and manufacturing centres, and the latter city having the larger

population. The Mississippi flows through a rather wide valley, with

pleasant shores, having villas dotted on their slopes. The Moline

Rapids, which are said to have a water-power rivalling the aggregate

of all the cataracts in New England, descend twenty-two feet in a

distance of fourteen miles. Above them, the river flows between

Illinois and Iowa, and various flourishing towns are passed, the

largest being Dubuque, with fifty thousand people, the chief

industrial city of Iowa, and a centre of the lead and zinc manufacture

of the Galena district. This was the first settlement made by white

men in Iowa, the city being named for Julien Dubuque, a French trader,

who came in 1788 with a small party to work the lead-mines. Iowa is

known as the "Hawkeye State," and its name is of Dakotan Indian

derivation, meaning "drowsy," which, however, is hardly the proper

basis for naming such a wide-awake Commonwealth. Opposite Dubuque is

the northern boundary of Illinois, and above, the Mississippi

separates Iowa from Wisconsin.

The Mississippi bordering bluffs now rise much higher and become more

picturesque, Eagle Point, near Dubuque, being elevated three hundred

feet. Prairie du Chien, just above the mouth of Wisconsin River, was

one of the earliest French military posts. This region was the scene

of the "Black Hawk War," that chief of the Sacs battling to get back

certain lands which in 1832 had been ceded by the Sac and Fox Indians

to the United States. He was finally defeated back of the western

river shore, the boundary between Iowa and Minnesota being nearby.

Minnesota is the "North Star State," and its Indian name, taken from

the river, flowing into the Mississippi above St. Paul, means the

"cloudy water." The river scenery becomes more and more picturesque as

the Mississippi is ascended, the bluffs rising to higher elevations.

La Crosse is a great lumber manufacturing town, drawing its timber

from both Minnesota and Wisconsin. Above, where islands dot the

channel, is perhaps the most beautiful section of the river.

Trempealeau Island, five hundred feet high, commands a magnificent

view, and the Black River flows in through a splendid gorge. Winona is

a prominent grain-shipping town, and at Wabasha the river expands into

the beautiful Lake Pepin, thirty miles long and from three to five

miles wide, with attractive shores and many popular resorts. Over the

lake rise the bold round headland of Point No Point on one side and

the Maiden Rock on the other. St. Croix River flows in above on the

eastern bank, making an enlargement known as St. Croix Lake, and the

upper Mississippi is now wholly within Minnesota, having here at the

head of navigation the famous "Twin Cities" of St. Paul and

Minneapolis.

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