CROSSING THE MOUNTAIN TOP.

At the eastern base of the main Allegheny range a long mountain valley

stretches broadly from the far northeast to the southwest, and here is

Tyrone, a settlement of extensive iron works, and the outlet of the

greatest bituminous coal-fields of Central Pennsylvania, the

Clearfield district, the town of Clearfield being about forty miles to

the northwest. Northeast of Tyrone, this valley is called the Bald

Eagle Valley, a picturesque and fertile region; and to the southwest

it is the Tuckahoe Valley. At the base of the Bald Eagle Mountain,

thirty-three miles from Tyrone, is the town of Bellefonte, another

iron region, handling the products of the Bald Eagle and Nittany

Valleys, and receiving its name from the "Beautiful Fount" which

supplies the town with water. This is one of the most remarkable

springs in the Alleghenies, pouring out two hundred and eighty

thousand gallons of the purest water every minute. Following the

Tuckahoe Valley southward, at the base of the main Allegheny range we

come to the Pennsylvania Railroad town of Altoona, and eight miles

farther to Hollidaysburg. Each is a representative town--Hollidaysburg

of the past methods of crossing the mountain top, and Altoona of the

present.

In 1836 Mr. David Stephenson, the famous British railway engineer,

made a journey across Pennsylvania by the methods then in vogue, and

wrote that he travelled from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, three hundred

and ninety-five miles by the route taken, in ninety-one hours, at a

cost of three pounds sterling, about four cents a mile, and that one

hundred and eighteen miles of the journey, which he calls

"extraordinary," were by railroads, and two hundred and seventy-seven

miles by canals. This was the line used for twenty years, a main route

of travel from the seaboard to the West, having been put into

operation in 1834. It followed the Columbia Railroad from Philadelphia

to Columbia on the Susquehanna, the canal up the Susquehanna and

Juniata Rivers to Hollidaysburg, a portage railroad by inclined planes

over the main Allegheny Mountain ridge to Johnstown, and the canal

again, down the Conemaugh and Allegheny Rivers to Pittsburg. There

were one hundred and seventy-two miles of canal from Columbia to

Hollidaysburg, which went through more than a hundred locks and

crossed thirty-three aqueducts, having risen about six hundred feet

above the level at Columbia when it reached the eastern face of the

mountain. The canal west of Johnstown was one hundred and five miles

long, descended sixty-four locks, and went through a tunnel of one

thousand feet. The Portage Railroad of thirty-six miles crossed the

mountain by Blair's Gap, above Hollidaysburg, at twenty-three hundred

and twenty-six feet elevation, through a tunnel nine hundred feet

long. There were ten inclined planes, five on each side. The steepest

side of the Allegheny Mountain being its eastern face, the railway

from Hollidaysburg to the summit, though only ten miles long, ascended

fourteen hundred feet, while twenty miles of railway on the western

side descended eleven hundred and seventy-two feet. The cars hauled up

the planes each carried three tons of freight, and three cars were

hauled at a single draft. There could be twenty-four cars carrying

seventy-two tons passed over in one hour, which was ample for the

traffic at that time, the average business being three hundred tons of

freight a day. This amount would be carried in less than ten of the

big cars of to-day. It took passengers eight hours to go over the

mountain, halting one hour on the summit for dinner.

This route was superseded by the Pennsylvania Railroad crossing above

Altoona, opened in 1854, a road made for ordinary trains; and then

Hollidaysburg became a town of iron manufacture, losing the bustle and

business of the Portage, which was abandoned. The railroad company

acquired a large tract of land between the main Allegheny range and

the Brush Mountain to the southward, which has a deep notch, called

the "Kettle," cut down into it, opening a distant prospect of gray

mountain ridges behind. Here has been established the most completely

representative railway city in the world, having enormous railway

shops, a gigantic establishment, and a population of thirty-five

thousand, almost all in one way or another dependent on the

Pennsylvania Railroad. Altoona is at an elevation of about eleven

hundred feet above tide, and the railway climbs to the summit of the

mountain by a grade of ninety feet to the mile, winding around an

indented valley to get the necessary elevation. At its head this

valley divides into two smaller glens, with a towering crag rising

between them. Having ascended the northern side, the railway curves

around, crossing the smaller glens upon high embankments, doubling

upon itself, and mounting steadily higher by running up the opposite

side of the valley to the outer edge of the ridge. This sweeping curve

gives striking scenic effects, and is the noted Pennsylvania "Horse

Shoe," and the huge crag between the smaller glens, in which the head

of the Horse Shoe curve is partly hewn, is Kittanning Point. This

means the "great stream," two creeks issuing out of the glens uniting

below it; and here was the route, at sixteen hundred feet elevation,

of the ancient Indian trail across the mountain, the "Kittanning

Path," in their portage between the Juniata and Ohio waters. It shows

how closely the modern railroad builder has followed the route set for

him by the original road-makers among the red men. The Pennsylvania

Railroad carries four tracks over the mountain, piercing the summit by

two tunnels at about twenty-two hundred feet elevation, with two

tracks in each. The mountain rises much higher, and has coal mines,

coke ovens and miners' cabins on the very top. This is the watershed

dividing the Atlantic waters from those of the Mississippi, flowing to

the Gulf, and Gallitzin, a flourishing mining village, is the summit

station of the railway.

[Illustration: _The Conemaugh near Florence_]

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