We awake this morning in the Strait of Messina, scene of the late
frightful catastrophe. On our right, but at some distance, is the
city of that name, once fair as few cities are, now a corpse, torn
and disfigured, with the light of life gone out of it. Farther up
the Strait, on our left, is ruined Reggio. At a first glance the
ruins are not seen, but closer scrutiny, with the help of a pair of
glasses, reveals them. One very large building in the upper part of
the town is still on its feet. In many cases the walls are left
standing, mute witnesses of the ruin within and without. I cannot
discern a single church tower or steeple in all the stricken city.
By ten o'clock we are off Cape Spartivento (Split-the-wind), the toe
of the Italian boot, and by twelve the last of the tall hills of
Southern Italy has faded away on the horizon.
Great is Italian reverence for that which has been and is, an
admirable sentiment in its way, but one which tends to conserve in
being things that are and ought not to be. For example. I was
awakened this morning at five o'clock by a rattling noise which I
took to be due to some iron fastening having become loose. I groped
my way on deck, but could see nothing. Meeting one of the stewards,
I asked him what made the noise, "E il temone--it is the
steering-gear," he made answer, and suggested that I could get a room
on the lower deck where the noise would not be heard. Going on deck
after daylight I found the clatter was caused by a bolt, which kept
the rod of the steering-gear in place, having too much play. The
ship's smith was busied hard by with mending a windlass, and I drew
his attention to the matter. He eyed me in mild wonderment, and with
a characteristic shrug of the shoulders, said, "E sempre stato
cosi--It has always been like that." So there you are! Hundreds
upon hundreds of passengers have been robbed of their sleep by the
clatter of this bolt, but what of that? The nuisance must go
unabated, because--E sempre stato cosi!
P. S. I must set on record the fact that the thing has since been
remedied: for the future, passengers in stateroom No --, of the
Regina Margherita may rest in peace.
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