GAMES AND ATHLETICS FOR GIRLS
The finest type of physical vigor is developed from playing vigorous
outdoor games. This applies to girls as well as to boys. Games have the
great advantage over drills and gymnastics that they are worth while for
the fun alone. Play is a necessary and natural activity for every
individual. Unless each one of us gives the proper share of her time to
wholesome forms of recreation, she cannot be cheerful and happy, and
thus she cannot influence those around her toward greater happiness.
Each one of us should so plan each day that we shall spend at least one
hour playing vigorous games outdoors. The younger girls should use the
whole afternoon for play and recreation. No girl can become a normal
woman without having had her share of joyful and active play.
Girls nowadays are playing more and more, and growing stronger and more
athletic. As a result they have better health and greater beauty. No
beauty parlor can produce the perfect complexion and bright eyes which
nature gives to the out-of-doors girl.
[Illustration]
There are certain cautions which girls should use in practicing games
and athletics. After they are twelve or thirteen, they should avoid
sports like high or broad jumping, which cause a heavy jar upon landing.
Girls should not compete in long distance running, or in games which
call for violent and long-continued exertion. Basket-ball may easily be
too severe if played according to boys' rules or for long halves. In
such games there should be a gradual preparation for the competition. An
examination of the heart by a physician is very desirable, before this
type of game is played. Girls frequently overdo rope-skipping. No girl
should jump more than fifty times in succession. Excessively keen
competition under trying conditions frequently has a bad effect upon
girls of a nervous temperament. Of course, girls should rest and not
take part in active games when they are physically incapacitated. There
are, however, a wide variety of games and sports in which girls may find
both pleasure and profit. The ideal type of exercise for girls is found
in swimming, walking and similar activities in which the exertion is not
excessively violent, and which call for long-continued or repeated
efforts. Girls excel in endurance in such sports.
Team games are especially valuable for girls as they need the moral
discipline of learning to efface themselves as individuals and to play
as a member of the team. That is, they learn to cooperate. Among the
team games suitable for girls are: field hockey, soccer, baseball played
with a soft ball and basket-ball.
Among athletic events that may be used for girls, are: short sprints,
usually not over fifty yards, throwing balls for distance, relay races
and balancing competitions.
Walking is a delightful sport when done at a good pace, in the country.
All girls are fond of rope-skipping and skating.
Novelty competitions, in wide variety, may easily be invented to amuse a
group of Scouts. The following will suggest many other variations: A
short walking match, heel and toe. The distance may vary from twenty to
one hundred yards or more. The same competition may be conducted going
backward.
Have all the girls take a prone position, face downward, hands and feet
in a specified position. On a signal, get up and run to the finishing
line. The usual signal is "On your marks," "Get set," "Go." There should
be no movement whatever until the final signal "Go." Have the players
hop backward or forward in a race. Various combinations of these will
readily suggest themselves.
Two or more teams of girls may find much fun in simple passing games.
Arrange the teams in line, either seated or standing. Have them pass
such an object as a bean bag, ball or stick in a specified way. For
instance, if the girls are seated, one behind the other, the bean bag
may be passed backward over the right shoulder with one hand, around the
back of the last girl, and forward over the left shoulder. The game
starts with the bag on the ground in front of the leader, and is
finished when the leader replaces it there, after it has passed through
the hands of each girl on the team. Be careful to see that there are the
same number of girls on each team, and that the lines occupy, when
arranged, the same space on the ground. Next let the players pass the
bag backward overhead with both hands, and forward in any manner they
like.
The following variation will introduce an additional feature that makes
the game all the livelier. Let the object be passed back to the last
player who then runs forward and takes the place of the leading player,
every player in that line moving back one position as this player runs
to the front of the line. This is continued until the captain or leader
has gone through every place in the line and run back to the front. The
team whose captain gets to the front first, wins the game.
Another stage of this game may be played by stretching a cord or rope
across in front of the two lines, eight or ten feet high. As each player
advances, the bag or ball must be thrown over the rope from the near to
the far side, caught, and then thrown back. Any player failing to catch
the object must make the throw over again. After she returns to the head
of the line, the object is passed back to the last player in the same
manner, and the game continues until the captain or leading player has
passed through every position in the line, and come back to the front.
A similar game may be played with a basket-ball and basket-ball goals,
each girl being required to shoot a goal at one or both ends of the
basket-ball court. In the woods or in camp a ring or hoop may be
substituted for the basket-ball goal.
Hundreds of such simple games are found in the books on games listed in
the Handbook. A few of the more useful and popular games are described
below.
Three Deep
Twenty-four or more players form a circle of pairs with space enough
between the players (who stand closely one behind the other, facing the
center of the circle) to allow the runners to turn and run in all
directions. Two players on the outside of the circle and at a distance
from each other begin the game. One of these is called the "tagger," the
other is "It." She tries to tag "It" before she can secure a place in
front of any of the pairs forming the circle. If she succeeds, roles are
changed, the player who has been tagged then becomes the "tagger" and
the former "tagger" tries to secure a place in front of some pair. But
whenever the runner (the player pursued) has succeeded in getting in
front of a pair before being tagged, then the hindmost (the last or
third, in the respective rank) must take to her heels and seek to evade
the unsuccessful "tagger" who now turns her attention to the new runner.
In trying to evade a tagger the successive players may run in any
direction, either left or right, outside the circle, but not pass in
front of any one rank to another rank in such a manner as to induce
wrong starts. A hindmost player may also form in front of his own rank,
making the second player in such rank hindmost or "third." The play is
always directed against the third or last of a rank, two players being
the number limited to each place.
(When classes of players in the beginning are too large the circle may
be formed by rows or ranks of threes, instead of twos or pairs.)
Expert players may form several circles and run from circle to circle,
two pairs playing simultaneously. The above play may be varied in a
number of ways.
Day and Night
The players divide into two parties, form in two lines, back to back,
about three paces apart. One of the lines is named the "Day Party" the
other the "Night Party." The leader has a disk painted black on one side
and white on the other. (A coin may be used instead of the disk.) In
front of each party is a goal. The leader throws the disk into the air.
If the disk alights with the white side up the leader calls "Day." The
"Day Party" then rushes toward its goal and the "Night Party" pursues,
tagging as many players of the "Day Party" as possible. These they take
back to their own line. The disk is thrown again, and the party whose
side turns up starts for their goal as before. The game continues in
this way until all the players on one of the sides are lost.
Sculptor
One of the players is chosen as the "Sculptor" and she arranges the
other players in different positions and attitudes as statues. No player
dares move or speak, for as soon as she does the sculptor punishes her
by beating her with a knotted handkerchief or towel (the sack-beetle).
After having arranged the players to suit her fancy the sculptor leaves
the playground, saying: "The sculptor is not at home." No sooner is she
gone than the statues come to life, sing, dance, jump and play havoc in
general. On the return of the sculptor she counts, "One, two, three,"
and any player who is not in her former posture at "Three" receives a
beating with the knotted handkerchief from the sculptor. Should the
sculptor punish the wrong statue all the players rush at her with
knotted handkerchiefs and drive her to a goal previously decided upon,
and the game is resumed with some other player as sculptor.
Cross Tag
Any player who is chased may be relieved by any other player running
between her and the one trying to tag her. The latter must then run
after the player who ran between, till she in turn is relieved.
Dodge Ball
Of any even number of players, half form a circle, while the other half
stand inside the ring, facing outward. The players in the center dodge
the ball, which, while in play, is thrown by any of those forming the
circle. Those who are hit with the ball take their places among those
around the circle, and have an equal chance at those remaining in the
center. One is put out at a time. This is kept up until no one is left,
in the circle, after which the players exchange places, that is, those
who were in the circle now form around the circle, and _vice versa_.
Kim's Game
Place twenty or thirty small articles on a tray or table, or the floor,
and cover with a cloth--different kinds of buttons, pencils, corks,
nuts, string, knives, or other such small things. Make a list and have a
column opposite for each player's name. Uncover for just one minute and
then take each player by herself and check off the articles she can
remember. The winner is the one who remembers the most.
Morgan's Game
Players run quickly to a certain bill-board or shop window where an
umpire is posted to time them a minute for their observation. They then
run back to head-quarters and report all they can remember of the
advertisements on bill-board or objects in shop window.
Scout Meets Scout
Patrols of Scouts are to approach each other from a distance. The first
to give the signal that the other is in sight wins. In this game it is
not fair to disguise but hiding the approach in any way is admissible.
You can climb a tree, ride in any vehicle, or hide behind some slowly
moving or stationary object. But be sure to keep in touch with the one
who is to give the signal.
It is best that others should not know the Scouts' secret passwords, so
one is given at a time in this book for those that can _search best_.
Acting Charades
may be indoors or out. A very good one is for two or three players to
act as if they wanted some special thing that is in sight. The first who
discovers what this is then selects some other players to act with her.
Unprepared Plays
Relate the plot of some simple play, after which assign a part to each
of several to act out. Let them confer for a short time and then act it.
This develops many fine talents and is one of the most useful games for
the memory, expression, and imagination.
A Scout always shakes hands when she loses a game and congratulates the
winner.
INVENTORY GAME. Let each girl go into a room for half a minute and when
she comes out let her make a list of what she has seen. Then compare
lists to find who has seen the most.
TESTING NOSES. This is easiest with the competitors blindfolded. Let
them smell different things and tell what they are. Also the objects may
be placed in bags but this means much more work.
CHASING AN OWL. Another good stalking game is chasing the owl. This is
done in thick woods where one Scout represents the owl hooting at
intervals and then moving to one side for a distance. Each pursuer when
seen is called out of the game and the owl, if a real good one, may get
safely back to her stump.
TURKEY AND WILDCAT is played by the turkey blindfolded "going to roost"
in some place where there are plenty of twigs or dry leaves to crack and
rustle. At the first sound the turkey jumps. If not then in reach of the
wildcat she is safe and another wildcat has a chance. This is sometimes
very laughable for the turkey being blindfolded may jump right on the
wildcat.
FAR AND NEAR. On any walk, preferably in patrol formation, let each keep
a list of things seen such as birds, flowers, different kinds of trees,
insects, vehicles, tracks, or other "sign." Score up in points at the
end of the walk on return to the club rooms.
ATHLETIC FEATS
The Palm Spring
Stand at a little distance from a wall with your face toward it and
leaning forward until you are able to place the palm of your hand quite
flat on the wall; you must then take a spring from the hand and recover
your upright position without moving either of your feet. It is better
to practice it first with the feet at a little distance only from the
wall, increasing the space as you gradually attain greater proficiency
in the exercise.
Foot-Throw
Put a basket-ball between your feet in such a manner that it is held
between your ankles and the inner side of the feet; then kick up
backward with both your feet and in this manner try to jerk the ball
over your head, catching it when it comes down.
Hand Wrestling
Two players face each other, feet planted firmly, full stride position
apart, right hands grasped. Each player tries to displace the other
player. One foot moved displaces a player.
Sitting Toe Wrestle
Two players sit on a mat facing each other, knees bent perpendicularly,
toes touching opponent's. Pass stick under knees and clasp your hands in
front of knees. When the signal is given, attempt to get your toes under
opponent's toes and upset her.
(An excellent list of games to be used while in camp will be found on
page 440 of _Games for the Home, School, and Gymnasium_, by Jessie H.
Bancroft. See, also, additional books listed under this topic in the
Handbook.)
CAMPING
It is advisable that Patrols or Companies should have some place of
their own at which to camp. Some small plot of woodland is easily
secured near most any of our cities. At the beaches it is frequently
impossible to secure the privacy desirable. The seaside is not easily
fenced in. If you own your camping ground all desirable sanitary
conditions can be looked after and buildings of a more or less permanent
nature erected. Even a "brush house" in a spot which you are allowed to
use exclusively is better than having to hunt a place every time you
want to camp out. "Gypsying" from place to place is unadvisable.
When you have your own camp, too, much better chances for study will be
found possible. You will have your own trees, flowers, and birds to
notice and care for, and a record of them is valuable even in a very
limited space. Think of the beautiful work of White--_The Natural
History of Selborne_.
Name your camp by all means. Long ago we formed the habit of naming all
our camps using by preference the name of the first bird seen there. Now
we use the Seminole name. So we have our "Ostata" and "Tashkoka." Some
of the names are too hard, though, for civilized tongues. "Mooganaga"
for instance, might hurt somebody's mouth when she tries to pronounce
it.
When going into camp _never_ forget matches. When leaving camp I used to
put all my spare matches into a dry empty bottle, cork it tight, and
hide it. After many years I have found my matches as good as "new" where
I had hidden them. By rubbing two sticks together one can make a fire
without matches.
Camping out is one of my hobbies. Walks and picnics are all very well
as far as they go, but to get the full benefit of actual contact with
Nature it is absolutely necessary to camp out. That does not mean
sleeping on wet bare ground but just living comfortably out of doors,
where every breath of heaven can reach you and all wild things are in
easy reach. A camp can be easily planned within daily reach of many of
our large cities but should be far enough to escape city sounds and
smells. It is not a camp, however, if it is where a stream of strangers
can pass by at any time of the day or night within sight and hearing.
Water is a supreme requisite at any camp. Water to swim in may be
dispensed with in extreme cases, but you can't carry your water with you
and have a comfortable time. I have been where I had to do it so I know
how it is. Also I have had to dig water out of the ground. That is not
an easy operation so be sure and camp near a well or spring. Wood, too,
you will want and it must be dry. Don't try to cook with fat pine. It's
all right to kindle with but not for cooking. Your bacon fried over it
will be as fine eating as a porous plaster. Fry your potatoes. If you
must roast them dig a hole in the ashes and cover them deep. Then go
away and forget them. Let some one else come along and cook all sorts of
things on top of them. When you come back rake them out of the ashes and
astonish every one.
Be sure your cooking fire is not too big. You must be able to get up to
it comfortably close without scorching your face. Start a small fire and
feed it as required with small dry twigs. Cooking over an outdoor fire
is a fine art and has to be studied carefully. It should be called
almost a post-graduate course in the camp studies. Of course the regular
camp-fire can be made as big and smoky as you like. Smoke is fine to
watch but not to breathe. Even the mosquitoes dislike it.
[Illustration]
Roughing it is all very fine to talk about, but it is best to make your
camp as comfortable as possible. The ground is good to sleep upon but
not stones and sticks. It's really astonishing how big a stick, no
longer than your finger, can grow in one night. Take my word for it and
don't try it. It won't pay. A hammock is my preference but a cot is
about as good. On a pinch twigs and grass are not to be despised. Moss
is apt to be moist but there is no possible objection to clean dry sand.
Be sure not to let your fire get away from you and spread. Besides the
damage to trees and fences that it may do it is impossible to tell what
suffering it may cause to animal life. So, be very careful.
* * * * *
To prevent forest fires Congress passed the law approved May 5, 1900,
which--
~Forbids setting fire to the woods, and~
~Forbids leaving any fires unextinguished.~
When you leave your camp clean up. Fragments of food--not pickles--can
be put up somewhere for the birds. At some of our camps we have regular
places to feed the birds and they get to know what time to come there.
Here in the woods my wrens have established for themselves the hour of
sunrise, and it is partly to escape their scolding for neglect that I
get up with the sun. Mrs. Jenny scolds furiously but for actual singing
she can beat any bird in the woods.
Perhaps you notice that we have said nothing about snakes. Now it is
really a very rare thing to see a snake in the woods. You have to look
very carefully to find them, for they seem to be about the most timid of
all creatures. So far as danger from poisonous snakes is concerned you
are in much more danger from the driver of a dray than from a snake.
Take our word for it, snakes are much more afraid of you than you are
of them. Give them the least little bit of a chance and they will be out
of the way before you can see them. A gorged snake--that is one that has
just taken a full meal--may be sluggish but in a majority of cases he
will crawl away and hide in some secure place till the process of
digestion is over. Do not go near a tub if you are afraid of water for
you can get drowned in it about as easy as you can get bitten by a snake
in the woods and to wind up the subject, not one-tenth of the people who
get snake bitten, die from it. A very few do die but most of them die
from the bad treatment they receive afterwards. The "deadly auto" will
not get out of your way but all snakes will.
Once in a while you may find clinging in a low bush a pretty little
green snake. It will readily submit to being handled and is perfectly
harmless. We have found these snakes useful in the house to kill flies.
The harmless snakes are the brown snake, the common banded moccasin, the
black mountain snake, the green snake. The garter and ring-necked snakes
wear Eve's wedding-ring as a collar. They cannot hurt and they eat up
quantities of insects, but beware of the yellow and brown rattlesnakes,
especially after rainy weather, for it is said that after wet weather
they cannot make any noise with their rattles and therefore you are not
warned of their presence. The most deadly snake, the moccasin, is
brownish with a flat head.
The green lizards, too, will almost rid a house of flies if left to
wander about at will. The fence lizard, a scaly alligator looking chap,
is just as useful but never gets tame.
Try petting a toad some time. He will get to be quite at home in a
garden and pay well, for he will eat all kinds of destructive insects.
Some gardeners buy toads, paying as high as a quarter apiece, for they
know how much good they can do. A toad digs his hole backwards. Watch
him and see the fun. In the spring if there is water near he may be
induced to sing to you. If you think he is slow and clumsy you have only
to see how quick he can catch a fly.
Provisioning a Camp
This should be a matter of mature consideration. Unless there is some
place near by where deficiencies can be supplied your camp may be a
misery instead of a pleasure. Have lists made out of the things each is
to bring, if it is to be a cooperative affair. It may be best to have a
committee, even if it is a committee of one, to do all the buying. But
even in this case individual tastes must be consulted. A full list
should be made out and strictly adhered to. At one camp where each
brought what she thought best there were six cans of soup, four pounds
of sugar, and no tea or coffee.
Canned goods are all very well if you do not have to carry them too far.
So too are potatoes. For lightness on long trips, dried fruits and meal
or grits are a wise selection. Oatmeal is light and easy to cook.
Prepared batter-cake flour is a pure joy to the camp cook. Once when
camping in the mountains we had unexpected difficulties. We were at such
an elevation that water boiled at too low a temperature to cook many
things "done," so the frying-pan there reigned supreme. As to that same
frying-pan be sure to select the "long handled kind." If not you will
have to splice out the handle with a long stick. Never pack up your
"unwetables" in paper bags. At any time a shower or even a heavy dew at
night may make you run short on salt, sugar, or flour. Covered tin cans
are too cheap to make it necessary to run any such risks. Have a lantern
and oil of course. Candles blow out too easily to be of much use. For
sudden calls for a light the pocket electric affair is very good and
cheap. Keep it standing up. The batteries waste quite fast if it is left
down on the side.
The quantity of provisions to be taken depends on the length of stay.
Consult any good military or naval ration list and a very good guess can
be made. They all seem to lay stress on beans which certainly are very
good if you have the "Boston" appetite.
Keep your camp clean. Keep it in order. Let your motto be, "Tidy as you
go." It is as bad to have to hunt for a thing you want in camp as it is
at home and particularly exasperating if, when you have found it, you
must wash it before using. "A place for everything and that place
anywhere" is a bad camp rule, though it does sound as if it was a real
easy way of disposing of the matter. Dig a hole to throw slops in and do
not let them "fly" on the ground. You may want to sit down right there.
Whatever the birds will eat should be put aside for them. All other
scraps and things that may become offensive _must_ be buried. Don't
start to breed flies or fever. When near the water some part of this
rule may be dispensed with in favor of the fish and crabs. They may be
judiciously baited up, but if you are going to fish for them see that
they are not overfed.
There are times and seasons when wild fruits and berries are a most
welcome addition to the camp fare, but unless you are perfectly sure of
the supply do not reckon on them too much in making up your provision
list. Better let them be a sort of joyful surprise. So too of fish and
game. "Don't count your chickens before they are hatched." Fresh smilax
shoots can scarcely be told from asparagus. Palmetto cabbage well cooked
is fine; poorly prepared it is vile. Let some one that knows about these
things "do" them for you.
The "gipsy kettle" is picturesque and only picturesque. Drive a stout
crotched stake on each side of the fire and put a stout stick across
them. Use strong wire hooks--S-shaped on which to hang pots over the
fire. If hung through the handle on the stick they are apt to boil over
and put out the fire before you know it. They may be quickly lifted from
the wire hooks as soon as they begin to look dangerous. Even the
coffee-pot may be rigged with a wire handle by which to be hung. Wire
and string are our special hobbies in camp. Fan a fire instead of
blowing it. Your breath has lost most of its combustible gas. A tin or
wooden plate makes a good fan. Put away dry kindling every night. You
don't know what sort of weather it will be tomorrow.
Use all precaution against your fire spreading. This is particularly
necessary where there are tents. A dry tent will almost "whisk" up in
smoke if the fire catches it. Rake dry leaves well away from about the
fire. It may be best sometimes to make "a burn" round the camp. Do this
a little at a time beating out all traces of the fire in the part burnt
over. Be in no hurry about this but be thorough. Leave no smouldering
embers or chunks of rotten wood smoking behind you. Burn clean as you
go.
Camp Oven
The camp kitchen or camp oven is made with two lines of soda bricks,
stones, or thick logs flattened at the top, about six feet long,
slightly splayed from each other, being four inches apart at one end and
eight inches at the other. The big end should be towards the wind, so
that a sort of tunnel is formed in the big end at windward. Start your
fire and the draught will carry the heat along the tunnel.
Daily Routine in Camp
_Have a set of general orders posted every morning. There should be one
officer of the day and one orderly. These will be appointed in turn. The
general order should be read before breakfast and include all duties and
so far as possible the excursions and games for the day. In appointing
cooks and details for the various duties be sure not to work the
"willing horse" too hard but let all share as much alike as possible.
Some will always want to volunteer too often and some will try to avoid
certain duties distasteful to themselves or "swap" with others. This
should not be allowed but helping must never be barred completely.
Inspect camp personally at least once a day and call attention to
shortcomings kindly without chiding. You can help your girls to help
themselves. A "driver" in camp is sure to breed hard feelings and cause
discontent. The camp is a hard school for the instructor. One of the
necessary laws in a camp is that after lights are out at night, no one
must speak. Silence should reign._
* * * * *
In some places mosquitoes are very troublesome. Oil of citronella will
drive them away for a time but a "smudge" may be necessary. They won't
stay in smoke or wind, so hunt the breeze. There are some other flies
just as bad to which the same treatment may be applied. "Black-flies" of
the northern woods are about the worst insect pest in America, though
the mosquitoes in some parts of the South, are nearly as bad. In some of
the coast regions, too, there is a species of "sand-fly" or midge that
is exceedingly annoying, but all of these are readily controlled by the
"smudge." This is a steady smoke not necessarily of an ill-smelling
nature. One of the very best materials for a "smudge" is green cedar
branches. They need some pretty hot coals to keep them smouldering but
are very effective.
Very few accidents need happen in camp. But still it may be a wise
precaution to go over with each patrol, before the camping trip, some
simple exercise in bandaging and other "First Aid" exercises. In a book
of the scope of this one it is not possible to give a full course of
instruction in such matters, so it seems best to make only casual
mention and leave details to the judgment of the patrol leaders and
captains.
[Illustration]
If any boating is to be a part of the program they should inform
themselves carefully which of their patrol can swim and just how expert
they are. Also instruct in methods of throwing things to a drowning
person or one who has just met with some mishap in a boat--such for
instance as losing an oar. A board or a plank should not be thrown
toward a person in the water but launched toward them. When adrift in an
unmanageable boat cast anchor and wait for assistance. _Never rock a
boat for fun._ A Scout who so far forgets herself as to do such a
foolhardy act should be forbidden to go into a boat again for some time
as a punishment. Most drowning accidents are from some such _fun_. It is
_sin_--not _fun_.
When bathing obey strictly all orders regarding distance to be ventured
and other rules. You may think they are mere summary restrictions but
you are probably not the best judge.
Last summer a party of boys were bathing. Contrary to orders they
scattered apart instead of keeping close together. While the Captain's
back was turned looking after the smaller boys, some of the big boys
began to dare each other to go farther and farther out. When the Captain
blew the whistle for them some still persisted in swimming away from the
beach and one of them was drowned. And to make it still worse he drowned
in shallow water where, if he had only known or had kept his wits about
him, he could have waded ashore.
Camp Orders
_In going into camp it is essential to have a few "Standing Orders"
published, which may be added to from time to time, if necessary. These
should be carefully explained to patrol leaders, who should then be held
fully responsible for their Scouts carrying them out exactly._
_Such orders might point out that each patrol will camp separately from
the others, and that there will be a comparison between the respective
camps as to cleanliness and good order of tents and surrounding
ground._
_Patrol leaders to report on the good or indifferent work of their
Scouts, which will be recorded in the Captain's book of marks._
_Bathing should be under strict supervision to prevent non-swimmers
getting into dangerous water. No girl must bathe when not well._
_Bathing picket of two good swimmers will be on duty while bathing is
going on, and ready to help any girl in distress. This picket will be in
the boat with bathing costume and overcoat on. They may bathe only when
the general bathing is over and the last of the bathers has left the
water. If bathing in the surf, a stake should be driven into the sand on
the beach and a rope securely fastened to the stake so that non-swimmers
can hold on to the rope in the water._
_Orders as to what is to be done in case of fire alarm._
_Orders as to boundaries, grounds to be worked over, damages to fences,
property, good drinking water, etc._
_No Scout allowed out of bounds without leave._
_No lads allowed inside bounds without leave._
Camping Equipment Necessary for One Week or Longer
1 Transport wagon.
2 Tents for girls.
1 Tent for officer.
3 Mallets and sufficient tent-pegs.
2 Blankets for each Scout.
2 Blankets for officer.
1 Kit bag each (2 ft. by 1 ft. or bigger).
8 Waterproof ground sheets.
3 Buckets.
3 Hurricane lamps.
2 Balls of twine (medium).
1 Spade.
1 Hatchet.
Kitchen Equipment
Bowls.
2 Saucepans.
1 Large frying pan.
Kettle.
Gridiron.
Butcher knife.
Kitchen fork.
Spoons, ladles, and tea strainer.
Six tea cloths.
Cleaning rags.
Chopping board and knife.
Kitchen soap and scouring powder.
1 Dish pan.
Clothing and Equipment for Each Scout
1 Set of underwear, cotton flannel nightgown, and lisle or
cotton stockings for each week. Do not take silk stockings.
1 Dress besides Scout uniform.
1 Pair heavy shoes.
1 Pair rubbers.
3 Handkerchiefs.
1 Apron.
1 Sweater or coat.
Hairbrush and comb and tooth-brush.
3 Towels.
Haversack.
2 Pillow-cases.
Soap and wash rag or sponge.
Bathing suit.
1 Plate.
1 Cup and saucer.
"Hussif" fitted with needles, thread, scissors.
Paper pad and envelopes and pencil.
Knife and fork.
Teaspoon and large spoon.
2 Woolen blankets.
SCOUTCRAFT
Useful Knots
Everyone should be able to tie knots. A knowledge of knots is useful in
every trade or calling, and forms an important part of a Girl Scout's
training.
As it may happen some day that a life may depend on a knot being
properly tied you ought to know the proper way.
THE BOWLINE is a loop that will not slip after the first grip. First
make a loop, then pass the end up through it, round the back of the
standing part, and down through the loop again. It is often used as a
halter for horses.
THE RUNNING BOWLINE. This is the nautical slip knot. First make the loop
as in the ordinary bowline but allow a good length of end (A). Pass it
round the standing part and up through the loop, and continue as in the
ordinary bowline.
THE REEF KNOT. It is used to join two dry ropes of the same thickness.
It will not slip, and can be easily untied when wanted. Do not confuse
it with the "Granny" knot. It is the _only_ knot used in First Aid work.
THE CLOVE HITCH is made with two half-hitches. When fastened to a pole
and pulled tight it can slip neither up nor down. Greatly used in
pioneering work.
THE HALF-HITCH. Pass the end round a pole, then round the standing part,
then through below itself again.
[Illustration: Bowline.]
[Illustration: Running Bowline.]
[Illustration: Half Hitch.]
[Illustration: Reef Knot.]
[Illustration: Clove Hitch.]
[Illustration: Fisherman's Knot.]
[Illustration: Round Turn and Two Half-Hitches.]
[Illustration: Sheep Shank.]
[Illustration: Slip Knot.]
[Illustration: Sheet Bend.]
[Illustration: Middleman's Knot.]
[Illustration: Overhand Loop Knot.]
THE FISHERMAN'S KNOT. Make this knot by tying a simple knot on rope B
with the end of rope A, then tie a similar knot on rope A with the end
of rope B. Pull the standing parts and the knots will remain fast.
ROUND TURN AND TWO HALF-HITCHES. It is used for making fast a rope so
that the strain will not jamb hitches.
THE SHEET BEND. Used for uniting two dry ropes of different thicknesses.
First form a loop, then pass the end of the other rope up through the
loop, round the back of the end and standing part of loop, and through
below itself.
THE SHEEP-SHANK. A Scout should never cut rope unless absolutely
necessary. To shorten a guy rope on tent or marquee, gather the rope in
the form of two long loops and pass a half-hitch over each loop. It
remains firm under a good strain and can be easily undone when required.
MIDDLEMAN'S KNOT. Somewhat similar to the fisherman's knot but in this
case only one rope is used. Can safely be used as a halter.
THE SLIP KNOT. You sometimes want to release a knot quickly so this knot
is used. It is simply the reef knot with one of the ends (A) pushed
through one of the loops. To release, pull end A.
OVERHAND LOOP KNOT. When pulling a rope you may wish to gain more
purchase on it or you may wish to insert a short stick to pull with. Use
the loop knot shown in our diagram.
IMPORTANT. Many of the knots shown on these pages are open so that you
may more easily see their working, but when in use they should always be
drawn taut.
The Mariner's Compass
Boxing the compass consists in enumerating the points beginning with
north and working around the circle as follows:
North
North by East
North, Northeast
Northeast by North
Northeast
Northeast by East
East, Northeast
East by North
East
East by South
East, Southeast
Southeast by East
Southeast
Southeast by South
South, Southeast
South by East
South
South by West
South, Southwest
Southwest by South
Southwest
Southwest by West
West, Southwest
West by South
West
West by North
West, Northwest
Northwest by West
Northwest
Northwest by North
North, Northwest
North by West
North
[Illustration]
How to Read a Map
Conventional Signs & Lettering Used in Field Sketching
[Illustration: CONVENTIONAL SIGNS ETC]
Conventional Signs enable you to give information on a sketch or map in
a simple manner which is easily understood. In addition to the sign it
is often necessary to give an additional description, _e. g._, whether a
railway is double or single, the width of roads, the nature of woods
(oak, pine, etc.), etc.
[Illustration: CONVENTIONAL SIGNS ETC]
Whatever lettering is used should be legible and not interfere with the
detail of the sketch. All lettering should be horizontal, except the
names of roads, railways, rivers, and canals, which should be written
along them.
Remember to fill in the North point on your sketch, as it is useless
without it. Leave a margin of about an inch all round your sketch and
state the scale that you have made your sketch, _e. g._, two inches to
the mile.
[Illustration: CONVENTIONAL SIGNS ETC]
SIGNALLING
CONTINENTAL
Used on Submarine Cables, Wireless and in Foreign Countries
A .-
B -...
C -.-.
D -..
E .
F ..-.
G --.
H ....
I ..
J .---
K -.-
L .-..
M --
N -.
O ---
P .--.
Q --.-
R .-.
S ...
T -
U ..-
V ...-
W .--
X -..-
Y -.--
Z --..
1 .----
2 ..---
3 ...--
4 ....-
5 .....
6 -....
7 --...
8 ---..
9 ----.
0 -----
Period ......
Comma .-.-.-
Interrogation ..--..
Colon ---...
Semi-colon -.-.-.
Quotation Marks .-..-.
The letter A is used for the word "Error"
" " K " " " " " "Negative"
" " L " " " " " "Preparatory"
" " N " " " " " "Annulling"
" " O " " " " " "Interrogatory"
" " P " " " " " "Affirmative"
" " R " " " " " "Acknowledgment"
The Morse Code of Signals is not hard to learn but it requires much
practice to "receive" even when the message is sent slowly. The
old-fashioned instruments were fitted with a ribbon on which the dots
and dashes were recorded, but all modern operators depend on the ear.
The code is as follows:
[Illustration: The American Morse Telegraph Alphabet]
A .-
B -...
C ...
D -..
E .
F .-.
G --.
H ....
I ..
J -.-.
K -.-
L -
M --
N -.
O . .
P .....
Q ..-.
R ...
S ...
T -
U ..-
V ...-
W .--
X .-..
Y .. ..
Z ... .
& . ...
$ ... .-..
NUMERALS
1.--.
2..-..
3...-.
4....-
5 ---
6......
7 --..
8 -....
9 -..-
0 -- [1 long dash, not 2 regular dashes]
[Illustration: NUMERALS]
_Punctuation_
Comma, . --. --
Semi-colon, Si
Colon, Ko
Period, .. -- --..
Interrogation, --.. --.
Quotation, Qn
Paragraph, -- -- -- --
Exclamation, -- -- --
Parenthesis, Pn
Brackets, Bn
Dollar mark, Sx
Dash, Dx
Hyphen, Hx
Underline, Ux
_Signals_
4. Start me.
5. Have you anything for me?
9. Train order (or important military message)--give away.
13. Do you understand?
All sorts of changes may be made when the signals are committed to
memory. Flags--up for a dot and side for a dash is one of the commonest
and easiest for the beginner; or whistles--long and short blasts. Even
the hand or a hat may be substituted; coughing, stamping, and scratching
with the foot or a bit of stick. In fact endless changes may be invented
for use with this Code.
COMMANDS AND SIGNALS
_For the use of the Girl Scouts the following list of words of command
and whistle signals has been compiled._
Commands
"Fall in" (in line).
"Alert" (stand up smartly).
"Easy" (stand at ease).
"Sit easy" (sit or lie in ranks).
"Dismiss" (break off).
"Right" or "Left" (turn accordingly).
"Patrol right or patrol left" (patrol in line wheels).
"Quick march" (step off with the left foot first).
"Double" (run with arms down).
"Scouts' pace" (walk fifty paces and run fifty paces alternately).
Whistle Signals
1. One long blast means "Silence," "Alert," "Listen for next signal."
2. A succession of long slow blasts means "Go out," "Get farther away,"
or "Advance," "Extend," "Scatter."
3. A succession of quick short blasts means "Rally," "Close in," "Come
together," "Fall in."
4. Alternate short and long blasts mean "Alarm," "Look out," "Be ready,"
"Man your alarm posts."
5. Three short blasts followed by one long one from the Captain calls up
the patrol leaders.
Any whistle signal must be instantly obeyed at the double as fast as you
can run, regardless of anything you may be doing.
By previous agreement many other signals may be arranged. It all depends
on the exigencies to be met or the special order or information to be
conveyed. But these few important signals should be strictly adhered to
in all drills and exercises of Scouts. The compiler of the present
volume thinks it unwise to print the secret words so they are left for
the patrol leaders and Captain to communicate verbally.
Hand Signals
"ADVANCE"} Swing the arm from rear to front, below the shoulder.
"FORWARD"}
"RETIRE" Circle the arm above the head.
"HALT" Raise the arm to full extension above head.
"DOUBLE" The closed fist moved up and down between
your shoulder and thigh.
"QUICK TIME" To change from the "Double" to the "Quick Time," raise the
hand to the shoulder.
"REINFORCE" Swing the arm from the rear to the
front above the shoulder.
"LIE DOWN" With the open hand make two or three
slight movements towards the ground.
"WHEEL" Extend your arm in line with your
shoulder and make a circular movement
in the direction required.
"INCLINE" Extend your arm in line with your
shoulder and make a turn with your
body in the direction required.
Indian Signs
Burnt sticks are placed at the last camp-fire to tell the direction the
Indians have gone from this spot. Two of them always make a V point and
if the third is laid at the point of the [V=] it means north. Across the
open end of the [=V] it means south. At one side |V it means east and V|
would mean west. Now the above mark as made to indicate south would
really mean southwest, if the stick which indicates direction were a
little way to the west side--V-. Northwest would be V_.
[V=] North
[=V] South
|V East
V| West
V- Southwest
V_ Northwest
Scout Signs.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sign | Secret | Meaning.
| Patrol or |
|Troop Sign.|
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[symbol]| |Road to be followed.
[symbol]| | Letter hidden 3 paces from here in direction of arrow.
[symbol]| | This path not to be followed.
[symbol]| | "I have gone home."
[symbol]| | War or trouble about.
[symbol]| | Peace.
[symbol]| | We camped here because one of us was sick.
[symbol]| | A long way to good water, go in direction of arrow.
[symbol]| | Good water not far, in this direction.
[symbol]| | This is good water.
[symbol]| | Signature of Scout No. 4 of the Fox Patrol, 21st Glasgow.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Shaking a blanket: I want to talk to you.
Hold up a tree-branch: I want to make peace.
Hold up a weapon (axe) means war: I am ready to fight.
Hold up a pole horizontally, with hands on it: I have found something.
Self-Defense
SHOOTING
All Scouts should know how to shoot. By this we do not mean that you
should go all day behind some big dog and try to kill the birds he finds
for you, for that is the most useless form of shooting, all things
considered, that can be devised. What we mean is that Scouts should know
how to load and fire a gun or other firearm so as not to be at a loss
for a means of defense should an emergency arise. It is one of the best
means to "be prepared." Our preference for practice of this kind is a
small rifle as it is less dangerous than any form of pistol and it
affords excellent training for hand and eye. Avoid, however, the very
high power modern firearms--that kind that "shoot today and kill next
week," as there is too much danger of reaching some one that is out of
sight. The same may be said of the automatic pistol which fills too
large a circle with missiles of sudden death.
ARCHERY
The bows and arrows of our ancestors are not to be despised as a means
of training hand and eye. Archery is excellent practice for the eye, and
good exercise for the muscles. It makes no noise, does not disturb game
or warn the enemy. Scouts should know how to shoot with bows and arrows,
and they can make them for themselves. The arrow, twenty-six inches
long, must be as "straight as an arrow" and tipped with a heavy head,
with wings to keep it level. Ash wood is the best. The bow should be
unstrung when not in use, or it will get bent. It is usually made your
own height. Old gloves should be worn.
STARS
How to Find the Time by the Stars
Fig. 1 shows the stars around the northern pole of the heavens (Pole
Star), and the Pointers of the Great Bear, which direct us to the Pole
Star.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
Since all stars appear to rise in the East and set in the West (which is
really due to our earth turning round under them), the Pointers revolve
once around the Pole Star in the opposite direction to the hands of a
clock, once in twenty-four hours, or they swing through a quarter of a
circle once in six hours; it is thus a simple matter after a little
practice to judge what part of the imaginary circle they will pass
through in an hour or less.
Assuming that all the stars rise four minutes earlier each night, and
that the Pointers of the Plough are vertically above the Pole at
midnight at the end of February, we may calculate the position of the
Pointers for any hour of the night.
The First Twenty Stars in Order of Brightness
Date of
rising at
9 P.M. in the
East.
1. Sirius, the Dog-star Dec. 4
2. (Canopus, of the Ship)
3. (Alpha, of the Centaur)
4. Vega, of the Lyre April 1
5. Capella, of the Charioteer Aug. 21
6. Arcturus, of the Herdsman Feb. 20
7. Rigel, of Orion Nov. 4
8. Procyon, the Little Dog-star Nov. 27
9. (Achernar, of Eridanus)
10. (Beta, of the Centaur)
11. Altair, of the Eagle May 26
12. Betelgeux, of Orion's right shoulder Oct. 30
13. (Alpha, of the Southern Cross)
14. Aldebaran, of the Bull's right eye Oct. 2
15. Pollux, of the Twins Nov. 4
16. Spica, of the Virgin Mar. 1
17. Antares, of the Scorpion May 9
18. Fomalhaut, of the Southern Fish Aug. 27
19. Deneb, of the Swan Apr. 22
20. Regulus, of the Lion Jan. 1
Orion
Then there is another set of stars representing a man wearing a sword
and a belt, named "Orion." It is easily recognized by the three stars in
line, which are the belt, and three smaller stars in another line, close
by, which are the sword. Then two stars to right and left below the
sword are his feet, while two more above the belt are his shoulders, and
a group of three small stars between them make his head.
Now the great point about Orion is that by him you can always tell which
way the North or Pole Star lies, and which way the South, as you can see
him whether you are in the South or the North part of the world. The
Great Bear can be seen only when you are in the North, and the Southern
Cross when you are in the South.
[Illustration]
If you draw a line by holding up your staff against the sky, from the
center star of Orion's belt through the center of his head, and carry
that line on through two big stars till it comes to a third, that third
one is the North or Pole Star.
Then if you draw a line the other way, beginning again with the center
star of the belt, and passing through the center star of the sword, your
line goes through another group of stars shaped like the letter L. And
if you go about as far again past L, you come to the South Pole, which
unfortunately is not marked by any star. Roughly Orion's sword, the
three small stars, points North and South.
East and West. Orion sets due west, and rises due east, so that, if you
can catch him rising or setting, you know where the points of the
compass are. Constellations, such as Orion, or the Bull, rise in the
east, four minutes earlier each succeeding night--that is about half an
hour earlier every Saturday.
Read _The Song of the Fifty Stars_ by Arthur A. Carey, and try to find
each star on a chart and then in the Heavens.
The Song of the Fifty Stars
Alpherat, Caph, and Algenib--three leading stars--
Move in front of all the host,
Turning from East to West,
Over the rounded dome;
And, near the head of the line, the Star of the North,
Polaris, turns his round and marks the hub of the wheel.
From Alpherat, North and East, Andromeda shoots,
Like a branch, with Mirach and Almach; while, far in the South,
Achernar shines, a beacon-light, at the "End of the River."
From Almach pass to Algol, of the changing face,
Called by the Arabs the Demon--
The Medusa of the Greeks.
But, not so fast! lest we forget the little changing star
Whose place is West of Algol, farther South--
Mira, "the Wonderful," in Cetus or the Whale.
Algol leads to Mirfach, the brightest star of Perseus,
Who saved the captive Andromeda, daughter of Cepheus, "the Monarch,"
And royal Cassiopeia.
Then comes, surrounded by her sisters, gentle Alcyone,
The peaceful, daughter of the King who rules the tempestuous winds;
And, running in pursuit of these--the happy Pleiades--
Aldebaran, "the Follower," shines from the eye of the Bull.
Next comes Capella--the Mother Goat--watching her three Kids;
Her yellow light the color of our Sun.
Capella and Rigel move in line, and afterwards comes Nath,
Who marks the horn of the butting Bull.
Orion, the Hunter, on the Equator--the Giant of the Arabs--
Shines glorious North and South;
Bellatrix his left shoulder; Mintaka marks his belt.
After Mintaka comes Betelgeux, right shoulder of Orion;
While, between them in order, though farther North,
Is Zeta of Taurus, the Bull, who marks the other horn.
The next is Menkalinan, the shoulder of the Charioteer;
And, two degrees to the Eastward, the Circle of the Solstice passes by.
While, far down in the South,
Canopus gleams from the stern of Argo, the Ship.
Sirius, Star of the Greater Dog, brightest of all in the heavens,
Is followed by Castor, one of the Twins.
While Procyon--"Dog-in-advance"--the bright "forerunner" of Sirius,
Is followed by Pollux, the greater of the Twins.
Next Regulus comes in the Lion's heart, Denebola, the tip of his tail;
While, between them in order, Merak and Dubhe, the pointers,
Point to their aim in the North.
Two brilliant stars in the Southern Cross are Alpha and Beta Crucis,
The former a glorious double Sun, with a third star in attendance;
To see them ourselves we must travel far,
But we know that the glory is great in the South,
Although from us it is hidden.
Next, in the hand of the Virgin, the pointed Ear of Wheat--
Spica of the Romans--
Not far from the Autumn Equinox.
Now, back to the North we go, and look for Mizar and Alcor--
The Indian Squaw with the little papoose on her back,
And the tip of the tail of the Greater Bear
Where Benetnasch commands.
Now, again to the South, where the forefeet of the Centaur
Are marked by Beta and Alpha;--the former is known as Hadar--"the Ground";--
The latter sun is nearest to ours
And famous as Serk-t, toward whom the ancient Egyptians
Turned their temples in homage--
And, between them in order, the great and distant Arcturus
Shines out warm in the North.
Pulcherrima--most beautiful--must be sought by those who love her;
For she is modest and shy in the presence of the Great One.
Nearby is Gemma, the Bud,
In the beautiful Northern Crown.
Near the point where the "roof-tree" crosses the Zodiac Ring
Is a warm, red star in Scorpio.
This is Antares; while, in the North,
Etanin marks the Dragon's head.
Mu Sagitarii--closer still to the Solstice and Ecliptic--
Marks the northern part of the heavenly Archer's bow.
On summer evenings, high above our heads,
Vega shines with cool and brilliant light;
While, to the South and East, is Altair of the Eagle.
Nearby is the Northern Cross, or Cygnus,
Whom we call "the Swan,"
With Deneb Adige marking her outspread tail.
The nose of Pegasus, the soaring horse,
Shines out in the star Enif, or Epsilon of Pegasus--a triple star--
While Fomalhaut gleams in the South,
Guarding the Fish's Mouth.
Now Scheat and Markab, hand in hand, watch for the stragglers--
Bringing up the rear of all the Fifty Stars that have passed by.
The Sun Clock
When you have been able to find the North Star it will be very easy to
set up a sun-dial. This device is not so valuable now as standard time
is universally used. If you know the difference between "sun time" and
standard time, the sun-dial can be referred to with a fair amount of
accuracy and many people regard it as a curiosity.
Select a place where the sun shines all day and the ground is level. Set
up a post or stake perpendicular and firm. At night go and "sight" a
straight stick at the North Star and fasten it securely. This stick will
now be parallel to the axis of the earth and its shadow will fall at the
same line on any given hour no matter what season of the year it may be.
At noon by the sun the shadows of the slanting stick and the upright one
will coincide. This gives you the "sun noon" and the time by a standard
watch or clock will tell you what correction to apply to your dial to
convert its time into standard. Having once established the noon, or "no
hour" mark the I, II, III, IV, V, and VI with stakes. Then calculate the
correct sun time of VI A.M. by your standard watch and stake out the
morning hours. Halves and even quarters can be marked between if you
wish.
A flower dial can be made by having your upright post a pretty tall
one, say ten or even twenty feet, and planting rows of flowers like
spokes of a wheel along the hour lines. It may be possible even to
select such as are likely to open at or near the indicated hour. The
entire semicircle of pegs will also make a pretty finish with tall
ornamental foliage plants or shrubs.
PRACTICE
_Make a sun-dial on the ground, mark the hours with stones or sticks,
and see if it shows the time every day._
AMONG THE STARS
Scouts must be able to find their way by night, but unless they practise
it they are very apt to lose themselves. At night distances seem much
greater, and land-marks are hard to see.
When patrolling in dark places, keep closer together, and in the dark or
in the woods or caves keep in touch with each other by catching hold of
the end of the next Scout's staff.
The staff is also useful for feeling the way.
WINTER EVENINGS.--_Cut out a quantity of little stars from stamp edging.
Take an old umbrella, open, and stick the stars inside it, in the
patterns of the chief constellations, then hold it overhead, and turn it
once round for twenty-four hours, making the stars rise in the east._
_The sun and the moon appear almost the same size as a rule. When we are
a little nearer the sun, in winter, he looks a trifle larger than the
moon._
_To study the constellations, go out when the stars are bright, armed
with a star map and a bicycle lamp to read it by, and spread a rug on
the ground to lie on, or have a deck-chair, or hammock. Watch for
meteors in August and November._
_Let each girl try to draw a sketch map of a given constellation, from
memory._
GARDENING
Now what about the gardens, for it goes without saying that Girl Scouts
must have gardens. Getting right down and smelling the fresh soil is
good for any one. It is mother earth's own breath. Watching the growth
of our seeds is a veritable joy of joys. But what had we better plant?
Why not let every one plant at least one tree? Never mind what kind of a
tree. We will talk about that in a minute but decide at the outset that
you will have at least one tree growing this year. Your trees will be a
legacy to posterity, a gift from the Girl Scouts to their country. For
in this United States of ours we have cut down too many trees and our
forests are fast following the buffalo. Nay, the bare face of the land
has already begun to prove less attractive to the gentle rains of heaven
and offers far too open a path to the raw blasts of winter. In many
sections of our country the climate is drier and colder than it was
before so much of the forest was destroyed. We are just waking up to
this sad fact which it will take many years to rectify. So let us plant
trees.
A tree is a tree anyway be it large or small. Some are useful food
producers while others are of value for ornament or timber. All are
good. There are no bad trees. So if you plant and raise a tree there can
be no mistake. Whatever kind you select you will have done well. Fruit
and nut trees will of course appeal most strongly to the young,
especially to those with good healthy appetites. Many very young trees
can be made to return some fruit in a comparatively short time by being
budded or grafted. Scouts should learn how to bud and graft. It is not
hard. Pears, plums, figs, and peaches all do well in the South as do
also some apples and grapes. Peach trees though are in the main
short-lived. But trees of different kinds can be grown all over the
country. Apples and pears are at their best in the North and many kinds
are very long-lived trees. There are apple trees known to be a hundred
years old still bearing. Sugar maple does well where there are long
winters, and a wood of them--locally called a "sugar bush"--is a paying
piece of property. Most fruit trees are best bought from dealers or
obtained from your friends. They do not come "true," as it is called,
from the seed. A Baldwin apple-seed will not produce a Baldwin apple.
But as all the varieties are got by selecting from seedlings we can
experiment if we wish. We are already saving apple-seeds for next year,
and it will certainly be grand if we can get a new kind of apple and
name it the Girl Scout.
We shall not make many suggestions about flowers. Any and all kinds of
flowers will do in your gardens but do not neglect our own wild ones.
Take the goldenrod for instance. The finest we have ever seen is grown
in a city garden. Many other of our wild flowers will bear cultivating
and some well repay the care necessary to "tame" them. The atamasco lily
seems to be perfectly at home in the garden and so does the bloodroot.
Violets of course would be favorites if our native species were not with
one exception scentless. As any gardener's book will tell you all about
our "tame" flowers it is not necessary to say much about them.