Another letter to the same congregation a few months later reads:
"The first impression on the mind of an individual in approaching the
shores of China from the south, and sailing along the coast, as far north
as Amoy, is anything but favorable. So great is the contrast between the
lovely scenery and dense vegetation of many of the islands of the Indian
Archipelago, and the barren and worn-out hills which line the southern part
of the coast of China, that in the whole range of human language it would
seem scarcely possible to find a more inappropriate term than the term
'Celestial' whereby to designate this great empire. Neither is this
unfavorable opinion removed immediately on landing. The style of building
is so inferior, the streets are so narrow and filthy, the countenances of
the great mass of the people, at least to a newcomer, are so destitute of
intelligent expression, and the bodies and clothing, and habits of the
multitudes are so uncleanly, that one is compelled to exclaim in surprise,
'Are these the people who stand at the top of pagan civilization, and who
look upon all men as barbarous, except themselves?' Besides, everything
looks old. Buildings, temples, even the rocks and the hills have a
peculiar appearance of age and seem to be falling into decay. I am happy
to say, however, that as we become better acquainted with the country and
the people, many of these unfavorable impressions are removed. After
passing a little to the north of Amoy, the appearance of the coast entirely
changes. Even in this mountainous region we have valleys and plains, which
would suffer but little by comparison with any other country for beauty and
fertility. I also love the scenery around the city of Amoy very much. The
city is situated on the western side of an island of the same name. This
part of the island in its general appearance is very similar to the coast
of which I have spoken. It is rocky and mountainous and barren. There
are, however, among these barren hills many small fertile spots, situated
in the ravines and along the watercourses, which on account of their high
state of cultivation form a lovely contrast with the surrounding
barrenness. Wherever the Chinese, at least in this part of the Empire, can
find a watercourse, by cultivation they will turn the most barren soil into
a garden. The sides of the ravines are leveled by digging down, and
walling up, if necessary, forming terraces or small fields, the one above
the other. These small fields are surrounded by a border of impervious
clay. The water is conducted into the higher of these terraces, and from
them conducted into those which are lower, as the state of the crops may
demand. Often a field of paddy may be seen inundated, while the next field
below, in which perhaps the sweet potato is growing, is kept perfectly dry.
Among the hills there is much of picturesque scenery, and some that is
truly sublime. The Buddhists have exhibited an exquisite taste for natural
scenery, in selecting such places for the situation of many of their
temples."