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[Illustration: CASTLE OF XIMENA, AND DISTANT VIEW OF GIBRALTAR
_On Stone by T. J. Rawlins from a Sketch by Capt C. R. Scott_
_R. Martin lithog 26, Long Acre_
_Published by Henry Colburn, 13 Great Marlborough St._]
EXCURSIONS
IN THE
MOUNTAINS
OF
RONDA AND GRANADA,
WITH CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES
OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN.
BY
CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT,
AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND CANDIA."
"_Aqui hermano Sancho, podemos meter las manos
hasta los codos, en esto que llaman aventuras._"
DON QUIJOTE.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,
GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1838.
LONDON:
F. SHOBERL, JUN. 51, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET.
CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Cordoba--Post Road to
Cadiz--Carlota--Ecija--Carmona--Road from Ecija to
Gibraltar--Locusts--Osuna--Saucejo--An Olla in
perfection--Ronda--Splendid Scenery on the road to Grazalema--Distant
View of Zahara--Grazalema--Extensive Prospect from the Pass of
Bozal--Secluded Orchards of Benamajama--Pajarete--El
Broque--Ubrique--Difficult Road across the Mountains to Ximena--Our
Guide in a rage--Fine Scenery--Ximena--Strength of its Castle--Road to
Gibraltar 1
CHAPTER II.
Departure for Cadiz--Road round the Bay of Gibraltar--Algeciras--Sandy
Bay--Gualmesi--Tarifa--Its Foundation--Error of Mariana in supposing it
to be Carteia--Battle of El Salado--Mistake of La Martiniere concerning
it--Itinerary of Antoninus from Carteia to Gades verified--Continuation
of Journey--Ventas of Tavilla and Retin--Vejer--Conil--Spanish Method of
Extracting Good from Evil--Tunny Fishery--Barrosa--Field of
Battle--Chiclana--Road to Cadiz--Puente Zuazo--San Fernando--Temple of
Hercules--Castle of Santi Petri--Its Importance to Cadiz 33
CHAPTER III.
Cadiz--Its Foundation--Various Names--Past Prosperity--Made a Free Port
in the hope of ruining the trade of Gibraltar--Unjust Restrictions on
the Commerce of the British Fortress--Description of Cadiz--Its vaunted
Agremens--Society--Monotonous Life--Cathedral--Admirably built Sea
Wall--Naval Arsenal of La Carraca--Road to Xeres--Puerto Real--Puerto de
Santa Maria--Xeres--Its Filth--Wine Stores--Method of Preparing
Wine--Doubts of the Ancient and Derivation of the Present Name of
Xeres--Carthusian Convent--Guadalete--Battle of Xeres 64
CHAPTER IV.
Choice of Roads to Seville--By Lebrija--Mirage--The Marisma--Post
Road--Cross Road by Los Cabezas and Los Palacios--Difficulty of
Reconciling any of these Routes with that of the Roman
Itinerary--Seville--General Description of the City--The
Alameda--Display of Carriages--Elevation of the Host--Public
Buildings--The Cathedral--Lonja--American Archives--Alcazar--Casa
Pilata--Royal Snuff Manufactory--Cannon Foundry--Capuchin
Convent--Murillo--Theatre of Seville--Observations on the State of the
National Drama--Moratin--The Bolero--Spanish Dancing--The Spaniards not
a Musical People 90
CHAPTER V.
Society of Seville--Spanish Women--Faults of Education--Evils of Early
Marriages, and Marriages de Convenance--Environs of Seville--Triana--San
Juan De Alfarache Santi Ponce--Ruins of Italica--Italica not so ancient
a City as Hispalis--Young Pigs and the Muses--Departure from
Seville--The Marques De Las Amarillas--Weakness, Deceit, and Injustice
of the Late King of Spain--Alcala De Guadiara--Utrera--Observations on
the Strategical Importance of this Town--Moron--Military operations of
Riego--Apathy of the Serranos during the Civil War--Olbera--Remarks on
the Itinerary of Antoninus 123
CHAPTER VI.
Ronda to Gaucin--Road to Casares--Difficulty in Procuring
Lodgings--Finally Overcome--The Cura's House--View of the Town from the
Ruins of the Castle--Its Great Strength--Ancient Name--Ideas of the
Spaniards regarding Protestants--Scramble to the Summit of the Sierra
Cristellina--Splendid View--Jealousy of the Natives in the matter of
Sketching--The Cura and his Barometer--Departure for the Baths of
Manilba--Romantic Scenery--Accommodation for Visiters--The Master of the
Ceremonies--Roads to San Roque and Gibraltar--River Guadiaro and
Venta 154
CHAPTER VII.
The Baths of Manilba--A Specimen of Fabulous History--Properties of the
Hedionda--Society of the Bathing Village--Remarkable Mountain--An
English Botanist--Town of Manilba--An Intrusive Visiter--Ride to
Estepona--Return by way of Casares 179
CHAPTER VIII.
A Shooting Party to the Mountains--Our Italian Piqueur, Damien
Berrio--Some Account of his Previous Life--Los Barrios--The Beautiful
Maid, and the Maiden's Levelling Sire--Road to Sanona--Reparation
against Bandits--Arrival at the Caseria--Description of its Owner and
Accommodations--Fine Scenery--A Batida 202
CHAPTER IX.
Luis de Castro 226
CHAPTER X.
Don Luis's Narrative is interrupted by a Boar--The Batida
resumed--Departure from Sanona--Road to Casa Vieja--The Priest's
House--Adventure with Itinerant Wine-Merchants--Departure from Casa
Vieja--Alcala De Los Gazules--Road to Ximena--Return to
Gibraltar 249
CHAPTER XI.
Departure for Madrid--Cordon drawn round the Cholera--Ronda--Road to
Cordoba--Teba--Erroneous Position of the Place on the Spanish Maps--Its
Locality agrees with that of Ategua, as described by Hirtius, and the
Course of the River Guadaljorce with that of the Salsus--Road to
Campillos--The English-loving Innkeeper and his Wife--An Alcalde's
Dinner spoilt--Fuente De Piedra--Astapa--Puente Don
Gonzalo--Rambla--Cordoba--Meeting with an old Acquaintance 267
CHAPTER XII.
History of Blas El Guerrillero--_continued_ 294
CHAPTER XIII.
Unforeseen Difficulties in Proceeding to Madrid--Death of King
Ferdinand--Change in our Plans--Road to
Andujar--Alcolea--Montoro--Porcuna--Andujar--Arjono--Torre
Ximeno--Difficulty of Gaining Admission--Success of a
Stratagem--Consternation of the Authorities--Spanish Adherence to
Forms--Contrasts--Jaen--Description of the Castle, City, and
Cathedral--La Santa Faz--Road to Granada--Our Knightly
Attendant--Parador de San Rafael--Hospitable Farmer--Astonishment of the
Natives--Granada--El Soto de Roma--Loja--Venta de
Dornejo--Colmenar--Fine Scenery--Road from Malaga to Antequera, and
Description of that City 325
CHAPTER XIV.
Malaga--Excursion of Marbella and
Monda--Churriana--Benalmania--Fuengirola--Discrepancy of Opinion
respecting the Site of Suel--Scale to be adopted, in order to make the
measurements given in the Itinerary of Antoninus agree with the Actual
Distance from Malaga to Carteia--Errors of Carter--Castle of
Fuengirola--Road to Marbella--Tower and Casa Fuertes--Disputed Site of
Salduba--Description of Marbella--Abandoned Mines--Distance to
Gibraltar 363
CHAPTER XV.
A Proverb not to be lost sight of whilst travelling in Spain--Road to
Monda--Secluded Valley of Ojen--Monda--Discrepancy of Opinion respecting
the Site of the Roman City of Munda--Ideas of Mr. Carter on the
Subject--Reasons adduced for concluding that Modern Monda occupies the
Site of the Ancient City--Assumed Positions of the Contending Armies of
Cneius Pompey and Cæsar, in the Vicinity of the Town--Road to
Malaga--Towns of Coin and Alhaurin--Bridge over the Guadaljorce--Return
to Gibraltar--Notable Instance of the Absurdity of Quarantine
Regulations 382
CHAPTER XVI.
The Knight of San Fernando 410
APPENDIX 439
EXCURSIONS
IN THE
MOUNTAINS
OF
RONDA AND GRANADA.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM CORDOBA--POST-ROAD TO
CADIZ--CARLOTA--ECIJA--CARMONA--ROAD FROM ECIJA TO
GIBRALTAR--LOCUSTS--OSUNA--SAUCEJO--AN OLLA IN
PERFECTION--RONDA--SPLENDID SCENERY ON THE ROAD TO
GRAZALEMA--DISTANT VIEW OF ZAHARA--GRAZALEMA--EXTENSIVE PROSPECT
FROM THE PASS OF BOZAL--SECLUDED ORCHARDS OF
BENAMAJAMA--PAJARETE--EL BROQUE--UBRIQUE--DIFFICULT ROAD ACROSS THE
MOUNTAINS TO XIMENA--OUR GUIDE IN A RAGE--FINE
SCENERY--XIMENA--STRENGTH OF ITS CASTLE--ROAD TO GIBRALTAR.
On leaving Cordoba, we turned our horses' heads homewards, taking the
_arrecife_, or high road, to Seville and Cadiz. This appears to follow
the _direct_ Roman military way given in detail in the Itinerary of
Antoninus; the distances from station to station, on the modern road,
agreeing perfectly with those specified in the Itinerary, which, as it
runs very straight as far as Ecija, would not be the case if the Roman
road had diverged either to the right or left, as some are disposed to
make it, placing _Adaras_ (one of the intermediate stations) on the
margin of the Guadalquivír.
Several monuments, bearing inscriptions alluding to this military way,
are preserved at Cordoba. They all describe it as being from the temple
of Janus _to_ the Boetis, (meaning, it must be presumed, the _mouth_
of the river) and to the ocean.
The road is no longer paved, as it is described to have been in those
days; but, nevertheless, it is good enough to enable a lumbering
diligence to pulverize the gravel daily on its tedious way between
Madrid and Seville. It is also furnished with relays of post horses,[1]
but the posting establishments being, as in most other countries of
Europe, under the direction of the government, is a satire upon the term
_post haste_.
From Cordoba to Ecija is ten leagues.[2] The road, on reaching the river
_Badajocillo_, or Guadajoz, which is crossed by a lofty stone bridge,
commanding a fine view of Cordoba, leaves the rich alluvial valley of
the Guadalquivír, and enters upon an undulated tract of country, that
extends nearly all the way to Ecija. At three leagues is the scattered
village and post-house of Mango-negro, and three leagues beyond that
again, the settlement of Carlota. The ride is most uninteresting; as,
besides being tamely outlined and thinly peopled, the country is nearly
destitute of wood, and, in the summer season, of water; though, judging
from the extraordinary number of bridges, especially on drawing near
Carlota, there must be a superabundance in winter. Carlota is one of the
numerous villages which Charles the Third colonized from the Tyrol. It
consists principally of isolated cottages, standing some hundred yards
apart, and the same distance from the road; but there is a small
congregation of houses round the chapel, post-house, and _Casa del
Ayuntamiento_,[3] and a _Gasthof_, which I can say, from personal
experience, would do no discredit to Innsbruck itself.
The parish contains 250 houses, and a population of 1500 souls. The
fields round Carlota certainly appear to be better tilled than those in
other parts of the country, and there is a German tidiness about its
white cottages, as well as a platterfacedness about the little
white-headed urchins assembled round the doors, that are quite
anti-Spanish.
We obtained an excellent dinner at the _Tyroler Adler_, and, in the
afternoon, taking a by-road that struck off from the post route to the
right, cantered through plantations of olives nearly all the way to
Ecija,--four leagues. In the whole of the distance we did not see a drop
of running water, until we arrived on the brow of the hill overlooking
the river Genil. From this spot there is a fine view of the city of
Ecija, situated on the opposite bank.
The volume of the Genil increases but little between Granada and Ecija;
for its principal feeders, though falling into it below Granada, are
expended in irrigating the _vega_; and the _salados_, on the western
side of the _Serranía de Ronda_, are mostly dry during the summer. In
winter, however, the Genil is so increased, that the bridge at Ecija (a
solid stone structure of eleven arches,) is carried quite across the
valley, although the bed of the river is not above 100 yards wide.
Ecija is the Astigi of the Romans. It stands on a gentle acclivity, some
little distance from the Genil, and bears evident marks of antiquity.
Almost all traces of its walls have disappeared, however; and what
little remains of its tapia-built castle shows it to have been a work of
the Moors. The principal streets are wide, and contain many good houses;
and the _plaza_ is particularly well worth a visit from the lovers of
the picturesque.
The city contains sixteen convents, and two hospitals, with churches in
proportion. None of them offers much to interest the protestant
traveller; but, I believe, several boast of possessing valuable relics.
The Royal stud-house is fast going to decay.
The population of Ecija is estimated at 30,000 souls; a number that
appears totally disproportioned to the size of the city; particularly,
as it contains but a few tanneries, and trifling manufactories of shoes,
saddlery, &c. But, from the extreme fertility of the soil in its
neighbourhood--considered the most productive and best cultivated in
Andalusia--it is very possible this amount may not be exaggerated; for
in Spain the agriculturalists do not scatter themselves about in small
villages and hamlets over its surface, as in other countries, but
assemble together in large towns; so that those places which are
situated in fertile districts are as densely populated as our
manufacturing towns.
The distance that a Spanish peasant sometimes travels daily, to and from
his work, is truly surprising, in a people that, generally speaking,
like to save themselves trouble. Whilst getting in the harvest, however,
they erect _ranchas_, or rush huts, to shelter them from the midday sun
and night dews, and dwell in these temporary habitations until their
work is completed.
The crops of corn in the neighbourhood of Ecija are remarkably fine,
yielding forty to one, and though not so tall, perhaps, as those of the
_vega_ of Granada, the grains are larger and better ripened.
I must not omit to say a good word for the _Posada_,--the
Post-house,--which I do the more willingly from being so seldom called
upon to speak in terms of commendation of Spanish "houses of
entertainment." Suffice it to observe, that, provided the traveller be
very hungry, and moderately fatigued, he may reckon on getting a supper
that he will be able to eat, and a bed whereon--albeit hard--he may
obtain some hours' unmolested repose.
The remainder of the post road to Seville is so perfectly uninteresting,
that, reserving the Andalusian capital for a future tour, I shall take a
more direct route back to Gibraltar, through the _Serranía_ de Ronda;
merely offering a few remarks on the town of Carmona, which is situated
about two thirds of the way between Ecija and Seville, and referring my
readers to the Itinerary in the Appendix for any further details as to
the distances from place to place along the road.
Carmona is one of the few Roman towns of Boetica of whose identity
there is scarcely a doubt; its name having undergone little or no
change. It is mentioned by most of the ancient writers, and called by
them, indifferently, Carmo and Carmona, and by Julius Cæsar was esteemed
one of the strongest posts in the whole country. Its position,
considered relatively with the adjacent ground, is, indeed, most
commanding; being on the edge of a vast plateau of very elevated land,
which, stretching many miles to the south, falls abruptly along the
course of the river Corbones.
The Roman name for this river is, I think, doubtful. Florez, and most
antiquaries, suppose it to be the _Silicensis_. Some, and, as it appears
to me, with better reason, give that name to the Badajocillo. Be that as
it may, the Corbones is but an inconsiderable stream, and is now crossed
by a stone bridge of three arches.
The ascent to Carmona is very steep and tedious. The city is entered
through a triumphal Roman arch, which was repaired and spoilt by order
of Charles III. Another Roman gateway stands at the southern extremity
of the town, by which the road to Seville leaves it; and various parts
of the walls which yet encompass the place are the work of the same
people. The castle, however, is a relique of the Moors, and in a very
ruinous condition.
This stronghold was wrested from the Moors by San Fernando, after a six
months' investment. It was a favourite place of residence of Peter,
surnamed the Cruel, who, looking upon it as impregnable, left his
children there in fancied security when he took the field for the last
time against his brother. Soon after Peter's death, however, it fell
into the hands of his rival, who, according to some accounts, caused the
children (his nephews) to be put to death in cold blood.
The streets of Carmona are wide, clean, and well-paved; and the alameda
is enchanting, commanding a superb view of the ruined fortress, and over
the rich vales of the Corbones, and more distant Guadalquivír, and
embracing, at the same time, the whole chain of the Ronda mountains to
the eastward.
The population of the place is about 10,000 souls. The inn is execrable.
The post road to Cadiz is directed from Carmona on Alcalà de Guadiara,
where a branch to Seville strikes off, nearly at a right angle, to the
east, thereby making a considerable détour. But in summer, carriages
even may proceed to Seville by a cross road, which not only lessens the
dust, but reduces the distance from six _long_ to the same number of
_short_ leagues; or, in other words, effects a saving of about three
miles.
I now return to Ecija, and take the road from that city to Osuna; which
is tolerably good, and practicable for carriages during the greater part
of the year. The distance is five (very long) leagues. The country
presents a slightly undulated surface, and, excepting round the edges of
some basins wherein extensive lakes have been formed, is altogether
under the plough. At a little distance from the road, on the left hand,
a stream, called _El Salado_, flows towards the Genil. It does not
communicate with these lakes, nor has the name it bears been given from
its being impregnated with salt.
During our ride, we observed a number of men advancing in skirmishing
order across the country, and thrashing the ground most savagely with
long flails. Curious to know what could be the motive for this
Xerxes-like treatment of the earth, we turned out of the road to inspect
their operations, and found they were driving a swarm of locusts into a
wide piece of linen spread on the ground at some distance before them,
wherein they were made prisoners. These animals are about three times
the size of an English grasshopper. They migrate from Africa, and their
spring visits are very destructive; for in a single night they will
entirely eat up a field of young corn.
The _Caza de Langostas_[4] is a very profitable business to the
peasantry; as, besides a reward obtained from the proprietor of the soil
in consideration for service done, they sell the produce of their
_chasse_ for manure at so much a sack.
Osuna is generally admitted to be the Urso,[5] Ursao, and Ursaon, of the
Roman historians; though it agrees in no one particular with the
description given of that place by Hirtius; for it is not by any means
"strong by nature;" it is in the vicinity of extensive
forests--rendering it perfectly absurd to suppose that Cæsar's troops
"had to bring wood thither all the way from Munda;"--and, so far from
"there being no rivulet within eight miles of the place,"[6] a fine
stream meanders under its very walls.
The town is situated at the foot of a hill that screens it effectually
to the eastward, and the summit of which is occupied by an old castle of
considerable strength and size, but now fast crumbling to decay. The
streets are wide and well paved, the houses particularly good;--indeed,
some of the palaces of the provincial nobility (with whom it was
formerly a favourite place of residence) are strikingly handsome; in
particular, that of the Duke who takes his title from the city; and
notwithstanding that the streets are overgrown with grass, and the
houses covered with mildew, I am, nevertheless, disposed to call Osuna
the best built and handsomest city in Andalusia, it contains a
university, fourteen convents, for both sexes, and a population of
16,000 souls; but has little or no trade--in fact, though on the
crossing of two high roads, (viz., from Gibraltar to Madrid, and from
Granada to Seville) it has all the dullness of a secluded country
village.
The vicinity is very fruitful in olives and corn; the soil is a whitish
clay. To the S.E. the country is tolerably level all the way to
Antequera, and to the west is nearly flat to Seville; but at about a
mile southward from the city, shoot up the entangled roots of the
mountains of Ronda, presenting on that side a belt of very intricate
country. There are two roads to that place, the distance by the better,
which, I think, is also rather the shorter, of the two, is nine leagues.
It leaves Osuna by the gate of Granada, and, crossing the
before-mentioned stream (which is one of the sources of the Corbones),
advances some distance along a wide olive-planted valley. It then quits
the great road to Granada (which continues along the valley), and
ascends a steep and very long hill, from the crest of which, distant
about three miles from Osuna, there is a splendid view of the city, and
of the spacious plains extending to and bordering the distant
Guadalquivír, studded with the towns of Marchena, Fuentes, Palmar, and
Carmona.
The road continues along the summit of the elevated range of hills which
it has now attained, for about five miles, winding amongst some
singularly mammillated hummocks, that have very much the appearance of
the tumuli left in an exhausted mining country. A succession of strongly
marked and peculiarly rugged ravines present themselves along the
eastern side of the ridge, and the ground falls also very abruptly in
the opposite direction; but to the south, whither the road is directed,
the descent is much more gradual; and from the foot of the hill, which
is bathed by a rivulet wending its way to the Genil, the country is
tolerably level, and the road extremely good the remaining distance to
Saucejo.
In former days, this route was practicable for carriages throughout, and
with very little labour it might again be made so; but, though the high
road from the capital to Algeciras and Gibraltar, it is but little
travelled. The other road from Osuna to Ronda joins in here on the
right.
The village of Saucejo is a post station three leagues from Osuna, and
six from Ronda. It contains some eight hundred inhabitants, great
abundance of stabling, but not one decent house. The posada is a
peculiarly unpromising establishment, and the landlady's face such as to
shut out all hope of any sound wine being found within its influence. We
had left Osuna so late in the day, however, that it would have been vain
to attempt reaching Ronda ere nightfall.
We, therefore, reluctantly took possession of the _sala_, and,
presenting our sour-faced hostess with a rabbit and some partridges that
we had purchased on the road, asked if she could furnish the other
requisites for the concorporation of an _olla_, and whether it would be
possible to let us have our meal ere midnight; to both of which
questions, with sundry consequential nods of the head, she replied
severally, _en casa llena, presto se guisa la cena_.[7] Notwithstanding
this assurance, our supper was long in making its appearance, for the
operations of an _olla_ cannot be hurried. But, when it did come, it
bespoke our landlady to be a _cordon bleu_ of the first class; the
_pimento_[8] had been administered with judgment; the _berza_[9] had
duly extracted the flavour from the rabbit and partridges; the
_chorizo_[10] had imparted but the desirable smack of garlic to the
other ingredients; and the nutty savour of the _tocino_[11] was beyond
all praise. Nor was her wine such as we had expected; though somewhat
too light to have much influence on the digestion of the unctuous mess
placed before us.
From Saucejo the road again branches into two, one route proceeding by
way of Almargen, the other by the Venta del Granadal. Both are
_reckoned_ six leagues; but the last mentioned is better than the other,
as well as shorter by several miles. It crosses a considerable stream
(here called the Algamitas, but which is, in fact, the main source of
the Corbones) by a ford, about three miles from Saucejo. The descent to
the stream is very bad, and, after keeping along its bank for another
mile, the road mounts to some elevated table land, from which the view
to the westward is obstructed by the rocky peaks of two detached
mountains about a mile off. These may be considered the outposts of the
Serranía in that direction; and, on the rough side of the more
considerable of the two, is the _Hermita de Caños Santos_.
The country becomes very wild as the road advances, and rugged tors,
partially covered with wood, rise on all sides. At nine miles from
Saucejo is the lone venta of Grañadal, and beyond it the mountains rise
to a yet greater height, but their slopes are less abrupt, and are
covered with forests of oak and cork. At twelve miles a track branches
off to the right, proceeding to the little town of Alcalà del Valle,
which, though distant only about half a mile, is not visible from the
road. Soon after, a wide valley opens to the view, at the bottom of
which, encased by steep rocky banks, flows the river _Guadalete_. This
river is by some considered the _Lethe_ of the ancients; but, if it be
so, our long-cherished notions of the beauty of the Elysian fields have
been wofully faulty, for the country is rather tame, and the soil stony
and ungrateful. Thus far, however, it answers the description of Virgil,
that you
"Breathe in ample fields the soft Elysian air."
The town of Setenil is perched on a crag overhanging the left bank of
the Guadalete, and distant about three miles from the road, which keeps
under the broad summit of the hills forming the northern boundary of
Elysium. The sides of these are partially cultivated, and, from time to
time, a low cottage is met with as the road proceeds; but it soon enters
a cork-forest, and, threading its dark mazes for about four miles,
gradually gains the crest of the chain of hills overlooking the vale of
Ronda to the north, whence a splendid view is obtained of the fertile
basin, its rock-built fortress, and jagged sierras.
The descent on the southern side of the hills is rather rapid, and,
after proceeding downwards about a mile, the road is joined on the left
by the other route from Saucejo. From hence to Ronda is two short
leagues. The road still continues descending for another mile; and, in
the course of the two following, it crosses three deep ravines, watered
by copious streams, and planted with all sorts of fruit-trees.
In the bottom of one of these dells is ensconced the village of Arriate.
The last is a deep and very singular rent that extends, east and west,
quite across the basin of Ronda. Immediately after crossing this
fissure, the road begins to ascend the range of hills whereon Ronda is
situated, and, after winding for three miles amongst vineyards, olive
grounds, and corn-fields, enters the city on its north side.
We were seven hours performing the journey, although the distance is but
six _leguas regulares_.
I have already given so full a description of Ronda, that I will pass on
without further remark.
To vary the scenery, and moved by curiosity to visit some of the scenes
of our acquaintance Blas's exploits, we determined to take a somewhat
circuitous route homewards, by way of Grazalema and Ubrique.
The distance to the first named town is three long leagues. The road
descends gradually to the south-western extremity of the basin of Ronda,
where the Guadiaro, forming its junction with the Rio Verde, enters a
rocky defile, and is lost sight of amidst the roots of the rugged
sierras that spread themselves in all directions towards the
Mediterranean.
Crossing the last named stream just before its confluence with the
Guadiaro, the road at once begins ascending towards a deeply marked gap,
that breaks the ridge of the mountains which rise along the right bank
of the stream.
The pass is about four miles from Ronda, and commands a splendid view of
the fruitful valley, which lies, like an outspread _cornucopia_, at its
foot. On the other side, too, the scenery is not less fine, though of a
totally different nature. There a singular double-peaked crag rises up
boldly and darkly on the left hand, casting its shadow on the bright
foliage of an oak forest, which, deep sunk below the rest of the
country, spreads its verdant covering as far to the eastward as where
the huge Sierra Endrinal raises its cloud-enveloped head above all the
other mountains of the range. High seated on the side of this, a white
speck is seen which, in the course of time, proves to be the town of
Grazalema, whither we are bending our steps.
Proceeding onwards, from the pass about a mile, the little village of
Montejaque shows itself, peeping from between the two peaks of the
mountain on the left, and, seemingly, quite inaccessible, even to a
goat.
It is inhabited by a horde of half-tamed Saracens, who pride themselves
greatly on having foiled all the attempts of the French to make
themselves masters of the place;[12] and, as this elevated little
village is but three quarters of a mile from the high road, (which is
the principal communication between Malaga and Cadiz) it must have
possessed the means of annoying the enemy considerably.
For the next two miles our way lay along the spine of a somewhat
elevated ridge; whence we looked down upon the before-mentioned wooded
country on one side, and on the other into a well cultivated valley.
From the bed of this, but at several leagues' distance, the rock-built
town of Zahara rears its embattled head.
This little fortress is very noted in Moorish history; its capture by
Muley Aben Hassan, during a period of truce, having provoked the renewal
of the war which led to the loss of the crown, not only to himself
first, but to his race afterwards.
One of the sources of the Guadalete flows in this valley, bathing the
walls of Zahara, which stands on the site of the Roman town of
Lastigi.[13] The present name, I should imagine, (considering the
locality) is derived rather from the Arabic word _Zaharat_ (mountain
top) than _Z[=a]hara_, (flowery) as supposed by Mr. Carter; for the
streets are cut out of the live rock on which the place is built.
The road to Grazalema, now mounting another step, enters a dark forest,
and, continuing for five miles along the top of a narrow ridge, descends
into a vine-clad valley, that spreads out at the foot of the rough
sierra on the side of which Grazalema is seated.
The ascent to the town is very bad, and is rendered worse than it
otherwise would be by being paved--for a paved road in Spain is sure to
be neglected. We scrambled up with much difficulty, and alighting at the
posada, remained for an hour or two, to procure some breakfast, and
examine the place.
It is a singularly built town, the streets being heaped one above
another, like steps; and in several instances they are even worked out
of the native rock. There is, nevertheless, a fine open market-place,
which we found well supplied with fruit, vegetables, and game, including
venison and wild boar; and the town possesses several manufactories of
coarse cloths and serges.
From its situation, immediately over the mouth of a deep ravine, by
which alone access can be obtained to one of the principal passes in the
Serranía, Grazalema occupies a very important military position, and may
be considered almost inassailable; for, whilst at its back a perfectly
impracticable mountain covers it from attack, it is protected to the
north and east by the precipitous ravine it overlooks; up the side of
which, even the narrow road from Ronda has not been practised without
much labour. The only side, therefore, on which it has to apprehend
danger, is that fronting the pass above it--i.e. to the westward. But it
has the means of offering an obstinate resistance, even in that
direction.
Commanding, as it thus does, so important a passage over the mountains,
there can be but little doubt that Grazalema stands upon, or near, the
site of some Roman fortress; and, for reasons which I shall hereafter
mention, I feel inclined to place here the town of Ilipa.[14]
The inhabitants amount to about 6,000, and are a savage,
ruffianly-looking race. During the "War of Independence," assisted by
their brethren of the neighbouring mountain fastnesses, they frequently
rose against their invaders, driving them out of the place; and on one
occasion they repulsed a French column of several thousand men, which
was sent to dispossess them of their stronghold.
On leaving Grazalema, the road enters the narrow, rock-bound ravine
leading up to the pass, down which a noisy torrent rushes, leaping from
precipice to precipice, and lashing the base of the crag-built town,
whence we had just issued. A newly-built bridge, whose high-crowned arch
places it beyond the anger of the foaming stream, gives a passage to the
road to Zahara, which winds along the eastern face of the Sierra del
Pinar. Our route, however, continues ascending yet a mile and a half
along the right bank of the torrent, ere it reaches the long descried
gap in the mountain chain, the name of which is _El Puerto Bozal_.
This is considered one of the most elevated passes in the whole Serranía
de Ronda, and must be at least 4,000 feet above the level of the sea.
The mountains on either side rise to a far greater elevation; that on
the right, distinguished by the name of _El Pico de San Cristoval_, is
said (as has already been stated) to have been the first land made by
Columbus on his return from the discovery of the "New World."
The views from this pass are truly grand. At our backs lay the
beautifully wooded country we had travelled over in the morning--Ronda
and its vale, and the distant sierras of El Burgo and Casarabonela.
Before us, a wild mountain country extended for several miles; and
beyond, spreading as far as the eye could reach, were the vast plains of
Arcos, through which the gladdening Guadalete, winding its way past
Xeres, turns to seek the bay of Cadiz, whose glassy surface the white
walls of its proud mistress, and the deep blue ocean, could be seen
distinctly on the left, though at a distance of more than fifty miles.
From the Puerto Bozal, a _trocha_, directed straight upon Ubrique,
strikes off to the left; but the saving in point of distance which this
road offers, is counterbalanced by its extreme ruggedness. We,
therefore, took the more circuitous route to that place by El Broque,
which, for the first five miles, is itself sufficiently bad to satisfy
most people. The views along it, looking to the south, are very fine;
but the lofty barren range of San Cristoval, on the side of which it is
conducted, shuts out the prospect in the opposite direction.
At length, crossing over a narrow tongue that protrudes from the side of
the rugged mountain, we entered a dark, wooded ravine, and began to
descend very rapidly, and, to our astonishment, by a very good road.
After proceeding in this way about a mile, the valley gradually
expanding, we emerged from the wood, and found ourselves in a
sequestered glen of surpassing loveliness. A neat white chapel, with a
picturesque belfry, stood on a sloping green bank on our right hand,
and, scattered in all directions about it, were the trim, vine-clad
cottages of its frequenters, each screened partially from the sun in a
grove of almond, cherry, and orange trees. A crystal stream gurgled
through the fruitful dell, which was bounded at some little distance by
high wooded hills and rocky cliffs.
This secluded retreat is called _La Huerta[15] de Benamajáma_,--the
peculiarly guttural name proving it to have been a little earthly
paradise of the Moors.
The road, which had thus far been nearly west, here, continuing along
the course of the little river Posadas, turns to the south; and, keeping
under a range of wooded hills on the left hand, in about an hour reaches
El Broque. This portion of the road is very good, and from it, looking
over the great plain bordering the Guadalete, may be seen the lofty
tower of _Pajarete_, perched on a conical mound, at about a league's
distance. The justly celebrated sweet wine called by this name was
originally produced from the vineyards in its vicinity, but it is now
made principally at Xeres.
El Broque is a small clean town, abounding in wood and water, and
containing from 1500 to 2000 inhabitants. To the east it is overshadowed
by a range of lofty, wooded hills, which may be considered the last
buttresses of the Serranía; for the road to Cadiz, which here branches
off to the right, crossing the Posadas, traverses an uninterrupted plain
all the way to Arcos.
The route to Ubrique, on the other hand, again strikes into the
mountains; though, for yet two miles further, it follows the course of
the little river and its impending sierra. Arrived, however, at the
mouth of a ravine, which brings down another mountain-torrent to the
plain, it turns to the north, keeping along the margin of the stream,
until the bridge of Tavira offers the means of passage; when, crossing
to the opposite bank, it once more enters the intricate belt of
mountains.
The name of the stream which is here crossed is the Majaceite; and on
its right bank, close to the bridge, is a solitary venta. The scenery is
extremely beautiful. The mountains of Grazalema, which we had traversed
in the morning, form the background; the ruined tower of Alamada,
perched on an isolated knoll, stands boldly forward in middle distance;
and close at hand are the rough, coppiced banks and crystal current of
the winding Majaceite.
From hence to Ubrique the country is very wild and rugged. The town is
first seen (when about a league off) from the summit of a round-topped
hill, six miles from El Broque. It is nestled in the bottom of a deep
valley, hemmed in by singularly rugged mountains. The first part of the
descent is gradual, but a steep neck of land must be crossed ere
reaching the town; and, as if to render the approach as difficult as
possible, the road over this mound has been paved.
Amongst the rude masses of sierra that encompass Ubrique, numerous
rivulets pierce their way to the lowly valley, where, collected in two
streams, they are conducted to the town, and, fertilizing the ground in
its neighbourhood, cause it to be encircled by a belt of most luxuriant
vegetation. The mountains in the vicinity abound also in lead-mines, but
they are no longer worked. "Where are we to find money? Where are we to
look for security?" were the answers given to _my_ question, "Why not?"
The streets of Ubrique are wide, clean, and well paved; the houses lofty
and good; but the inn, alas! affords the wearied traveller little more
than bare walls and a wooden floor. The population of the place may be
estimated at 8000 souls. It contains some tanneries, water-mills, and
manufactories of hats and coarse cloths. It does not strike me as being
a likely site for a Roman city.
We were on horseback by daybreak, having before us a long ride, and, for
the first five leagues (to Ximena), a very difficult country to
traverse. For about a mile the road is paved, and confined to the vale
in which Ubrique stands by a precipitous mountain. But, the westernmost
point of this ridge turned, the route to Ximena (leaving a road to
Alcalà de los Gazules on the right) takes a more southerly direction
than heretofore, and, entering a hilly country, soon dwindles into a
mere mule-track. Ere proceeding far in this direction, another road
branches off to Cortes, winding up towards some cragged eminences that
serrate the mountain-chain on the left. The path to Ximena, however,
continues yet two miles further across the comparatively undulated
country below, which thus far is under cultivation; but, on gaining the
summit of a hill, distant about four miles from Ubrique, a complete
change takes place in the face of the country; the view opening upon a
wide expanse of forest, furrowed by numerous deep ravines, and studded
with rugged tors.
The road through this overshadowed labyrinth is continually mounting and
descending the slippery banks of the countless torrents that intersect
it, twisting and winding in every direction; and, on gaining the heart
of the forest, the path is crossed and cut up by such numbers of
timber-tracks, and is screened from the sun's cheering rays by so
impervious a covering, that the difficulty of choosing a path amongst
the many which presented themselves was yet further increased by that of
determining the point of the compass towards which they were
respectively directed.
The guide we had brought with us, though pretending to be thoroughly
acquainted with every pathway in the forest, was evidently as much at a
_nonplus_ as we ourselves were; and his muttered _malditos_ and
_carajos_, like the rolling of distant thunder, announced the coming of
a storm. At length it burst forth: the track he had selected, after
various windings, led only to the stump of a venerable oak. Never was
mortal in a more towering passion; he snatched his hat from his head,
threw it on the ground, and stamped upon it, swearing by, or at--for we
could hardly distinguish which--all the saints in the calendar. After
enjoying this scene for some time, we spread ourselves in different
directions in search of the beaten track; and, at last, a swineherd,
attracted by our calls to each other, came to our deliverance; and our
guide, after bestowing sundry _malditos_ upon the wood, the torrents,
the timber-tracks, and those who made them, resumed his wonted state of
composure, assuring us, that there was some accursed hobgoblin in this
_hi-de-puta_ forest, who took delight in leading good Catholics astray;
that during the war an entire regiment, misled by some such
_malhechor_,[16] had been obliged to bivouac there for the night, to the
great detriment of his very Catholic Majesty's service.
Soon after this little adventure we reached a solitary house, called the
_Venta de Montera_, which is something more than half way between
Ubrique and Ximena; _i.e._ eleven miles from the former, and nine from
the latter. A little way beyond this the road reaches an elevated chain
of hills, that separates the rivers Sogarganta and Guadiaro; the summit
of which being rather a succession of peaks than a continuous ridge,
occasions the track to be conducted sometimes along the edge of one
valley, sometimes of the other. The mountain falls very ruggedly to the
first-named river, but in one magnificent sweep to the Guadiaro.
The views on both sides are extremely fine; that on the left hand
embraces Gibraltar's cloud-wrapped peaks, the mirror-like Mediterranean,
Spain's prison-fortress of Ceuta, and the blue mountains of Mauritanía;
the other looks over the silvery current of the Sogarganta, winding
amidst the roots of a peculiarly wild and wooded country, and towards
the rock-built little fortress of Castellar.
The road continues winding along this elevated heather-clad ridge for
four miles, and then descends by rapid zig-zags towards Ximena.
The town lies crouching under the shelter of a rocky ledge, that,
detached from the rest of the sierra, and crowned with the ruined towers
of an ancient castle, forms a bold and very picturesque feature in the
view, looking southward. The town is nearly a mile in length, and
consists principally of two long narrow streets, one extending from
north to south quite through it, the other leading up to the castle. The
rest of the _callejones_[17] are disposed in steps up the steep side of
the impending hill, and can be reached only on foot.
The old castle--in great part Roman, but the superstructure Moorish--is
accessible only on the side of the town (east), and in former days must
have been almost impregnable. The narrow-ridged ledge whereon it stands
has been levelled, as far as was practicable, to give capacity to this
citadel, which is 400 yards in length, and varies in breadth from 50 to
80. It rises gently, so as to form two hummocks at its extremities; and
the narrowest part of the inclosure being towards the centre, it has
very much the form of a calabash.
A strongly built circular tower, mounting artillery, and enclosed by an
irregular loop-holed work of some strength, occupies the southern peak
of the ridge; and a fort of more modern structure, but feeble profile,
covers that in which it terminates to the north. An irregularly indented
wall, or in some places scarped rock, connects these two retrenched
works along the eastern side of the ridge; but, in the opposite
direction, the cliff falls precipitously to the river Sogarganta;
rendering any artificial defences, beyond a slight parapet wall, quite
superfluous.
Numerous vaulted tanks and magazines afforded security to the ammunition
and provisions of the isolated little citadel; but they are now in a
wretched state, as well as the outworks generally; for the fortress was
partially blown up by Ballasteros, (A.D. 1811) upon his abandoning it,
on the approach of the French, to seek a surer protection under the guns
of Gibraltar.
In exploring the ruined tanks of this old Moorish fortress, chance
directed our footsteps to an unfrequented spot where some smugglers were
in treaty with a revenue _guarda_, touching the amount of bribe to be
given for his connivance at the entry of sundry mule loads of contraband
goods into the town on the following night.
We did not pry so curiously into the proceedings of the contracting
parties, as to ascertain the precise sum demanded by this faithful
servant of the crown for the purchase of his acquiescence to the
proposed arrangement, but, from the elevated shoulders, outstretched
arms, and down-stretched mouth, of one of the negociators, it was
evident that the demand was considered unconscionable; and the roguish
countenance of the custom-house shark as clearly expressed in reply,
"But do you count for nothing the sacrifice of principle I make?"
From the ruined ramparts of Fort Ballasteros (the name by which the
northern retrenched work of the fortress is distinguished) the view
looking south is remarkably fine. The keep of the ancient castle,
enclosed by its comparatively modern outworks, and occupying the extreme
point of the narrow rocky ledge whereon we were perched, stands boldly
out from the adjacent mountains; whilst, deep sunk below, the tortuous
Sogarganta may be traced for miles, wending its way towards the
Almoraima forest. Above this rise the two remarkable headlands of
Gibraltar and Ceuta; the glassy waterline between them marking the
separation of Europe and Africa.
That Ximena was once a place of importance there can be no doubt, since
it gave the title of King to Abou Melic, son of the Emperor of Fez; and
that it was a Roman station (though the name is lost,) is likewise
sufficiently proved, as well by the walls of the castle, as by various
inscriptions which have been discovered in the vicinity. At the present
day, it is a poor and inconsiderable town, whose inhabitants, amounting
to about 8000, are chiefly employed in smuggling and agriculture.
On issuing from the town, the road to Gibraltar crosses the Sogarganta,
having on its left bank, and directly under the precipitous southern
cliff of the castle rock, the ruins of an immense building, erected some
sixty years back, for the purpose of casting shot for the siege of
Gibraltar!
The distance from Ximena to the English fortress is 25 miles. The road
was, in times past, practicable for carriages throughout; and even now
is tolerably good, though the bridges are not in a state to drive over.
It is conducted along the right bank of the Sogarganta; at six miles, is
joined by a road that winds down from the little town of Castellar on
the right; and, at eight, enters the Almoraima forest by the "Lion's
Mouth," of which mention has already been made. The river, repelled by
the steep brakes of the forest, winds away to the eastward to seek the
Guadiaro and Genil.
Here I will take a temporary leave of my readers, to seek a night's
lodging at a cottage in the neighbourhood, which, being frequented by
some friends and myself in the shooting season, we knew could furnish us
with clean beds and a _gazpacho_.