Chapter VII

Along the Rio Grande Western Railroad

We drove into Marysvale on the morning of June 15, but did not see the

town until we were directly over it, so to speak. It lays just under a

bluff and we were literally on top of it before we could see it. We

had expected to find a much larger place, as it is the terminal of the

Rio Grande Western Railroad, but it is a rather dilapidated looking

town of only three hundred population, set down in a basin. The

location is ideal. Swiss mountains with snow caps to the north and

east, a swift little river on the edge of the town, and high

tablelands to the south protect it from the winds. It could be made a

charming place and may be some day, but it held nothing of interest

for us except the postoffice, and so after getting our mail and some

provisions we started for Salina, which we understand is about

seventy-five miles north of here on the railroad.

The trail took us across the river and over the Sevier Range of

mountains into Poverty Flat, which we reached at 2 P. M. The pull over

the Sevier Range was short, but steep. It was only thirteen miles, but

the first eight seemed to be straight up. If the road had not been

very good, it would have been impossible for us to have made it even

with three horses, but having reached the top we had a magnificent

view, and we enjoyed looking down at the town and river and over the

mountains, while the horses were getting their lungs into working

order again, before dropping down to Poverty Flat.

At a ranch we obtained permission to put our horses in the corral and

give them a good feed of alfalfa, and, as they had done a day’s work,

we decided to stay here until the next day. We got a bit of family

history and some local traditions from the man at the ranch. His name

I have forgotten, but that is immaterial. He did not belong to the

Race Suicide Club. He had ten children; two were married. He and his

family live in the town of Monroe near here in the winter, and the

children go to school. They come out here and farm in the summer. We

understood Monroe was called “Monkeytown,” and it seems that both the

town and the mesa were nicknamed by an Irishman years ago, who

probably was quite a wit, and the names still stick. Two or three

different parties had tried to make a living on the mesa and had been

starved out, so he called it “Poverty Flat.” He evidently was a man

who had ideas of his own, and, believing most of the folks in town to

be only imitators, he conceived a great dislike for them, and when he

went away from home, which he did quite frequently, if any one asked

where he was from he would say, “From Monkeytown.” So, while it is

“Monroe” on the map, it is still “Monkeytown” to the surrounding

country.

The next morning we drove past Elsenor and on to Monroe, which we

found to be quite a good-sized town with telephone and electric light,

and it seemed quite up to date for a town away from the railroad. From

Monroe we went on ten miles farther to Richfield, a town of two

thousand population, on the railroad, where we mailed some letters,

leaving at 3:30 P. M. for Salina. We made twenty-five miles this day

and passed through three Mormon towns, all seeming prosperous, and the

country well irrigated. Just north of Richfield we saw a new

irrigation ditch which, when completed, will take care of about a

thousand acres. The Sevier Valley here reminded us of Southern

California, but the orange trees were lacking. The day was fine, but

the snow still lay in patches on the mountains and the air had a chill

in it.

We camped at night on the desert side of the valley, and just as we

were about to turn in the wind came up, the sky was overcast, and it

began to rain. So we put down our wagon cover and made the bed inside,

but just as we got inside, much to our disgust, the moon came out and

it was all over. We were inside, so we stayed, but did not sleep as

well as usual.

Friday morning, the seventeenth, we drove the twelve miles into

Salina, over a very dusty road. That short sentence seems an easy way

over twelve miles of horrible road, but it could not be helped. It was

the only road, and we had begun to find that in this country the roads

were all dusty that were travelled much, and those that were not

travelled much were practically impassable, because they were not

roads at all--just trails. This seemed to be the dryest year in the

history of this country and the farther along we went the more

complaints we heard. We had not seen any rain since starting and,

except for the false alarm of the night before, we were to travel a

good many miles more before getting rained on.

Reaching Salina, where we expected to leave the railroad and go east

to Green River, we made a few purchases in the provision line and then

inquired as to the trail over into Castle Valley. We were surprised

when told we couldn’t get up Salina Canyon into the valley, and that

if we were going to Green River we would have to go north about a

hundred miles, and that while it probably was one hundred and fifty

miles farther that way, we could make it easily enough, but with our

outfit we couldn’t possibly make the canyon trail because it was

washed out. As this was not the first time we had been told we would

have to depart from our straight line and go around, we decided not to

be easily discouraged, and so began to look about for some one who

knew absolutely the condition of the trail.

We were not long in finding a young fellow who had come over a few

days before, and he walked out and took a look at our outfit. He

looked quite a while at the wide tires and the wagon top and finally

said, “I believe I could make it with my team, but I would advise you

fellows not to try it.”

I said, “Do you mean that your team could take that wagon over, or do

you mean they could take your wagon?”

“I mean I could drive them over with that wagon, but they are used to

the mountains and rocks, and I don’t think that team can do it.”

“All right,” I said, “over we go. I think this team is as good as

yours, and if you can do it, I can.”

So we started, but I had occasion several times to think he was right

before we got there, as you will see, but I had begun to believe in

those horses and in my ability to drive them anywhere with that big

wagon, except up a tree.

The Cruise of a Schooner · 第 7 / 15 章