CHAPTER IX

Buttevant Barracks--Army Life--Mess-room Talk--Condition of the

Barracks--Balleybeg Abbey--Old Church--Native Wedding--Kilcoman

Castle, Spenser's Home--Doneraile Court--Mrs. Aldworth, the only

Woman Free Mason--Irish Wit--Regimental Plate--Departure from the

Barracks.

In the barracks at Buttevant are at present quartered a battalion of the

Dublin Fusiliers, a regiment which dates back to the days of Charles

II., and which has spent most of its years in India. Now this battalion

is back home and I doubt not that both officers and men find the cool

grey skys and green fields a welcome contrast to the blazing heavens and

burnt brown stretches of the Far East. Yet I imagine that there will be

certain moments of longing for the land where they have made their home

for so many years,--a land which never entirely releases her hold upon

those who have dwelt there.

"If a year of life you give her;

If her temples, shrines you enter;

The door is closed, you may not look behind."

But that state has not arrived with these men yet and they are very

contented to be "at home."

[Illustration: Photo by W. Leonard

Dinner at Buttevant Barracks]

These barracks at Buttevant are spacious and, as barracks go, very

comfortable. Situated in a good hunting country, one hears horse and

hound talk intermingled with the many bugle calls and the stirring

sounds of the fife. The campus or compound, a great green square

surrounded by the quarters, is constantly a gay spot, often with

lawn-tennis and cricket going on in its centre, and there are always the

officers' wives and children, giving the scene just that touch and charm

which can only come from women's presence.

Orderlies are leading or riding around the drive the hunters recently

purchased at the neighbouring horse fair, and constant are the comments

upon each nag as it passes,--mingled with much badinage at the expense

of the purchasers.

The regimental band of fifty men discourses sweet music. Tea is on in

the mess-room--soldiers in khaki and soldiers in scarlet coats are

everywhere. Snatches of songs come from the different quarters and life

does not seem hard to these soldiers, at least not now, and yet--the

call to arms and the chance of a skirmish is always welcome at first,

until they realise that "War is Hell" and once entered upon cannot be so

easily stopped. There is no thought of war here now and life goes

merrily onward.

At seven-thirty the dressing bugle sounds and we are off to reassemble

in the officers' mess at eight for that most important function,

dinner. I confess I feel slovenly in my black clothes amongst the

scarlet and gold of the officers. The mess dress of the army is very

effective, a scarlet jacket fitting closely and showing a generous shirt

front, dark blue trousers with scarlet stripes, strapped over patent

leather boots bearing spurs,--a dress becoming to any man. Once he knows

you, a British officer is always very cordial and agreeable; there are

few exceptions to that rule. I am certainly given a cordial welcome

amongst them on my first evening.

Dinner announced, we file down to the mess-room where if you imagine

things are crude or camp-like you are mistaken. The spacious apartment

is adorned with the "colours" old and new of the whole regiment (as this

is the headquarters of all its battalions and all such things are here

stored), most of them torn with the strife of battle. The table, of

Bombay oak (which travels with the regiment wherever it goes), is of

great width and as long as the room will permit. For dinner it is decked

with magnificent plate in the form of candelabra, cups and fantastic

salt-cellars, etc. There are flowers and snowy linen of course, and the

room is brilliant with scarlet coats and the mellow light of wax

candles. The dinner goes merrily on, while outside the regimental band

discourses its best. Towards the end we are brought to our feet with

"Gentleman, the King," and so, to the national anthem, drink the health

of his Majesty.

(I must compliment this band. It is excellent, and I believe is

considered the best in south Ireland.)

After dinner, we adjourn to the smoking-room upstairs, and "bridge"

comes in for proper attention.

Not caring for the game, Major Beddoes and I are seated before the fire.

The room is a large one and, I am thankful to say, does not possess

electric lights; a shaded lamp throws a warm glow downward upon the card

tables while the flashes of the firelight bring the scarlet coats and

gold braid of the players, and the tattered battle flags beyond them

into bold relief now and then.

The air is full of tobacco smoke, but aside from our subdued voices and

an occasional remark thrown at me by the players because I neither smoke

nor play, the room is very quiet. Outside, the barracks and the town

seem to have gone to sleep save for an occasional bugle call or sentry

challenge.

There had been some commotion below earlier in the evening because of a

young setter pup, which Capt. D. had shut up in his room, having eaten

one of the Captain's new walking boots, and Major Beddoes had some words

with his man, whom he had discovered wearing one of his, the Major's,

best dress shirts. "Sure, Major, 'twasn't soiled enough to give to old

Mag beyant there to wash, and I jest thought I would give it a wear or

so mesell, knowin' ye wouldn't care."

But those incidents of barracks life have passed on, when I ask the

Major what he thinks are the real feelings of the English for

Americans,--do you like us?--he is enough like a Yankee to throw the

query back at me with the parties reversed; but I came first upon the

field and insist upon that advantage. After some moments of quiet

pulling at his beloved pipe, he answers, "I think individually, yes,--as

a nation, _no_, and you have probably discovered that for yourself, and

the feeling on our part may be based on jealousy. You are also aware

that the same holds in your own land toward our people. As a general

thing we like your women, but not your men, and our opinion of the

latter is probably influenced by those of your citizens who have turned

their backs upon their own land and settled amongst us. Of these I do

not include those who have come amongst us for business reasons,--they

always expect to go 'home,' and are at all periods of their sojourn here

Americans,--but those others who, drawing their entire support from

their own country, settle here and become more anti-American than any

Englishman ever was. We despise them, and no matter how hard they may

work for it, they will never be looked upon otherwise than as

strangers,--their children, reared over here, possibly, but never

themselves, for whether we like you or not, we do think that one born in

America should be proud of that fact and not a cad. Do you agree with

me?"

[Illustration: Photo by W. Leonard

Buttevant]

"Assuredly, and personally whatever pride in the past I possess is

centred in those of my ancestors who helped to make and preserve our

great nation,--beyond them, while it is interesting to trace backward

into the countries of the old world, it is simply a pastime."

"You certainly send us funny lots of people during the touring months."

"Yes,--but have you ever tried to talk to them?"

"Just recall that lot at Mallow the other day. Could any party on the

surface be more unattractive?"

"You are quite correct, but if you had spoken to that most aggressive

looking man and his more aggressive looking wife and daughter, you would

have discovered well educated and intelligent people, such as form the

real backbone of a nation. They have consumed six summers travelling in

Norway alone, and thoroughly appreciate that beautiful country. They

believe that the world is a better book than any ever enclosed between

covers, and they intend to read it, and when the years bring old age

upon them, all that world will still be an open volume, its changes and

improvements fully appreciated and understood. Can you not excuse much

that is unpleasant in people like these? And do they not compare

favourably with the masses of English of a certain class found all over

Europe."

As for the sentiments of one nation for another, it is summed up in the

words of a recent author, "Moreover, the fine old dislike which Bretons

bestow upon everything outside Brittany was hers both by inheritance and

careful cultivation." There you have it in a nutshell,--not only as

regards the English but all other nations. England certainly holds that

feeling towards all the continent and I believe towards America; Boston

has it for all the rest of our land. New York has of late years become

more liberal, more cosmopolitan, yet I heard but lately a man make the

remark in her best club that he had "a perfect horror of the middle

West." How does that sound from an educated man in this twentieth

century, and of cities which have long since passed their centennial? To

be sure, far from being a criterion for the citizens of New York, he was

one who had kept his nose down on the books of some counting-house and

had never left the confines of the city.

As for California, I have known the dislike of everything outside of

that State, especially Eastern, to separate husband and wife and destroy

a family; where the wife's hatred of "outsiders" extended from her

husband's parents to and including every friend he had in the East,--an

impersonal sort of hatred because she was stranger to most of them, yet

none the less violent, with the result as stated.

Again, did not such a feeling have something to do with our Civil War?

Does not England even to-day believe that the cultivation was largely

in the South, and yet how unjust such an opinion! I am half Southern, my

mother's family having been slave-owners for generations, and I think I

can speak without prejudice, and I say again "how unjust such an

opinion." The cultivation in the South was sprinkled over a sparsely

settled country and centred in a few thousands of planters and their

families. In the North, it covered all of a densely populated section,

and from ocean to ocean it would have been impossible to find a class

like the mountaineers of Virginia, so ignorant that many of them not

only could not read but did not know what "reading" meant. Furthermore

where were, and still are, all the greater universities and seats of

learning? In the North. Where did our great poets and essayists come

from? The North again. I do not desire to decry the South,--far from

it,--but the old idea was an absurdity; the South in her palmiest

ante-bellum days sent the majority of her sons north to be educated,

but----

Bridge in the meantime is over for to-night and the group before the

fire increased thereby. So the talk drifts on and on. I am not given to

slang and do not like it, but I happened to use a bit just here, "he

monkeyed with a buzz saw." Attracted by the silence which followed I

looked up to find every face gazing upon me in puzzled amazement, until

finally Major ---- felt that some explanation must be forthcoming.

"Monkeyed with a buzz saw? Now let me see, let me see. What exactly _is_

a 'buzz saw,' and what happened to the monkey?"

My laughter forced them all to join in and for the next hour these

defenders of the British flag took a lesson in American slang, until

upon the soft air outside sounded the notes of the "last post" (or

"taps" as we call it), the saddest bit of melody in the world of music,

and so "good night," "good night." One by one the lights went out and

sleep settled upon the living while the moon, turning her attention

elsewhere, went off to light the fairies dancing on the river and the

witches down in old Ballybeg Abbey.

The following day being Sunday the soldiers of the King go to service in

full dress; the grim barracks are brilliant with hundreds of scarlet

coats and to the music of _Stars and Stripes Forever_ our one time foes

move off to pray for peace while prepared for war. I notice that

_Hiawatha_ is the favourite tune for marching men, and am told that it

is not only because it is a most excellent march but because the fife

plays an important part in its rendering and the fife is the only

instrument which can be heard above the din of battle.

[Illustration: Kilcoman Castle

Spenser's Home

Where he wrote _The Faerie Queene_]

There is a drummer in this band whose movements are simply amazing, and

I find myself trying to imitate them with pole and cane to the peril of

life and property. How he does swing those great sticks around his head

and bring them down upon that huge bass-drum! A drummer surely whose

pomposity surpasses anything of its kind within my memory. As the

inspiring music grows fainter and fainter and the scarlet coats pass

away down the streets of the old town I turn for an inspection of the

barracks. On the top of the entrance arch are the offices, on the right

the guard-house, and beyond it a large gymnasium. On either side of the

green and running at right angles to the entrance are the officers'

quarters, while a large barracks for the men forms the fourth side of

the square. Back of this is another square surrounded by large barracks,

while the married men have a separate building beyond these and the

Colonel lives in a retired pleasant house off in one corner. Of that

house and the dwellers therein I have some very pleasant memories.

To a looker-on in this twentieth century the disregard of sanitary

measures in such a barracks as this is surprising and I doubt not the

same holds in all others of the Empire and perhaps in all those of other

countries, including my own. Of that I am unable to speak, but the

outrage is an outrage all the same. One can understand the lack of such

things in far western camps or in war times, but that a great stone

place like this with a hundred years to its credit should have no proper

baths or toilet-rooms for its officers is "an outrage" most certainly,

and one which the nation should insist upon being promptly corrected.

There are a few bathrooms with good tubs and hot and cold water for the

men but the officers have nothing save the inconvenient, nasty little

tin tubs, and it is practically impossible for a big man to keep himself

in proper condition by their use.

These quarters are, as I have stated, massive stone buildings. Each

officer has a sitting-room with two small rooms adjoining and so placed

that either of the latter could be transformed at small cost into an

excellent bathroom with hot and cold water laid on. As it is now, these

gentlemen must use a little tin thing with an inch or two of cold water.

It's a common saying amongst the officers of the army that nothing is

done for _them_. What the government does is all for the rank and file.

That the soldiers should receive everything needful is in all ways

proper, but are not the men who lead them, the brains of this strength

of the nation, entitled to like consideration? They offer their lives

upon the slightest cause, and gladly too, yet their government is so far

forgetful, not to call it by a harsher term, that it neglects their

well-being in this manner. They are willing to put up with _nothing_

when it is necessary, and surely are entitled to a _bare something_, and

this is nothing more, when it can so easily be done and at such small

expense. Cleanliness is certainly more essential to health than many

brilliant coats and much silver plate.

There is often scorn expressed for our bathrooms with their modern

appliances, but I noticed at P---- that one of the scoffers, who might

have had his little "tub" (so constantly extolled) in his bedroom,

waited and almost missed his dinner that he might use the only bathroom

in that vast establishment. I do not desire to accuse the officers of

uncleanliness--very far from it--but they should be better provided for

in this respect.

I am also astounded to note the treatment of the common soldiers--"Tommy

Atkins"--by the public. In time of war he is worshipped, but in time of

peace is scarce considered to be a man, merely a servant to be pushed

and shoved about and treated most discourteously, to say the least. I

saw this done in a theatre the other night, to a soldier who addressed a

simple, civil question to the man next him. The reply he got and the

treatment he received would, in America at least, have resulted in a

row, and justly too. However, that occurred in Ireland where the "red

coats" are not liked.

I understand that the pay per year of the officers in the British army

is about as follows:

A Colonel, £400 Sterling

Lt. Colonel, 300

Major, 240

Captain, 200

Lieutenant, 100

These figures do not seem very large when a man offers his life to his

country, but they are in excess of many nations on the Continent, where

the officers are forced into beastly poverty by the call for outside

gorgeousness. At a late grand review the eye of a beholder was attracted

by an officer quite resplendent in a beautiful white uniform, superb

high black boots with glittering spurs, a silver breastplate, and

glittering helmet, and mounted on a splendid black charger, his

appearance was gorgeousness intensified. After the review the observer,

passing the tent of this same officer, saw the entire gorgeousness as to

uniform hung up to dry and on the wretched camp bed sat the man _with no

socks on_,--"too poor to buy them," all the pay and far more gone in the

useless display,--and yet not altogether useless, for without the

uniforms these great standing armies would melt away like mist before

the sun and many a throne totter to its fall. However, if the splendour

must be maintained, and it is certainly beautiful to look at, then those

forced to wear it and bear its expense should be better paid,

remembering at the same time that the wearers are ready at any moment to

stand up to be shot to death in defence of the home where you sit

comfortably reading your paper--therefore "PAY, PAY, PAY!"

The officers of these Fusiliers are devoted to their cook. I suggested

the other day that his coffee might be improved,--it was wretched, in

fact, not coffee at all, while no fault could be found with the rest of

the menu. They replied that they knew it, but he had been so devoted in

battle, had cooked under a galling Gatling fire, had rushed so many

times over death spots to bring them hot sausages which he was forced to

carry in his hands, that they could not scold him. I drank his coffee

with great pleasure after that. The heroes in this world do not always

wear the most brilliant uniforms and has it not been proven that it is

the commissary which in the end decides the conflict?

[Illustration: Doneraile Court, County Cork]

There is nothing going on in the barracks this morning which interests

me, save perhaps a court-martial, at which I am told that my absence

will be very precious. So I stroll off in the soft sunlight through the

great gateway, where a sentry holds constant ward and watch, just for

appearance sake, I imagine, as it cannot be to keep the boys in or

strangers out, for just at yonder corner is a breach in the wall

unguarded where any one may come and go at pleasure, and I doubt not

many of the boys do go and for pleasure, though there can be little

amusement in the sad town which clusters between the barracks and

castle. Of young men it seems to hold none, and there are not many

children, so that when these few old people pass onward and enter for

eternity yonder churchyard, old Buttevant will wither away altogether.

Many kindly faces come to the doors to watch me, knowing that I am an

American, and their eyes have a questioning look as though to ask for

some dear one in the land beyond the sea.

The place is indeed very old and every now and then as I pass through

the streets I come across some vestige of its past greatness and a mile

beyond its limits reach the ruins of Ballybeg Abbey, in a smiling meadow

down by the river Awbeg. Something of a stately structure in its palmy

days, there is little of that left now, but on the whole it is all

rather sociable. The river is of that sort, and having loitered downward

under its trees and through its grasses murmurs confidential bits of

gossip about the castle yonder upon its banks. Yellow buttercups push

their heads upward through the turf which climbs to the old grey walls

of the abbey, and in the abbot's doorway the white face of a ruminating

cow is silhouetted against the inner darkness. "They also serve who only

stand and wait," must have been written of Ballybeg and its kind, for it

has left no trace upon the pages of history. Yet withal, as I have

stated, it's a sociable old place and I spend some time in its company,

seated on the parapet of a neighbouring stone bridge where 'tis said the

fairies dance when the moon is full.

I expected much from the name--Ballybeg--why I can scarcely tell but I

cannot say that I am disappointed, though such stately structures as

Fountaine and Tintern in Wales would scarce consider Ballybeg to be

exactly "in their set."

Wandering up the banks of the Awbeg, I pass beyond the castle. We

had tea there last season and a medieval castle which can descend

to having afternoon tea served within its walls is not worthy of

description. It is owned by an irascible old lady who occupies one part

and rents out the other and who generally keeps such a strict eye upon

her tenants that it results in driving them out. When we visited it the

tenants were an officer and his wife, and just that shortly happened,

so that on my second visit to Buttevant, the castle stares at me with

vacant eyes of windows, and I pass onward up the river to the centre of

the town, where the ruins of its Franciscan abbey raise their arches

and columns and guard the dead of long ago, and those who come in this

later day to sleep beneath its shadows.

If you enter its crypt, you will stand amazed at the vast quantity of

human bones piled pell-mell there. Some say that they are but the

natural accumulation of departing humanity and others that they all came

from the neighbouring battlefield of Knockninoss,--others believe that

when in the flesh they all lived yonder in old Ballybeg.

Be that as it may, they are here now, quietly awaiting that day of days,

which shall summon them forth once more, and as I stand in the darkness

with my foot on a skull, which might have enclosed the brains of an

Irish king, downward through a broken casement comes the sound of a

voice and the words "I am the resurrection and the life, he that

believeth in me, though he were dead, yet shall he live," and I roll the

skull gently back into denser shadows, wondering, _wondering_, and

then, as we all must do, ceasing to wonder, and just continuing

to--trust.

Passing upward into the sunshine and forward amidst the long grasses

which cover the humbler dead, I find that one more has but now joined

this silent company, and those who brought her here are slowly leaving

the churchyard. Poor people, all of them,--there does not appear to be

any others in this town of Buttevant,--but death seems to hold no

terrors for any one of these and many sit round on the tombstones and do

not hesitate to discuss the qualities, good and bad, of those asleep

beneath them and to admire the inscriptions. Here is one quaint enough

surely:

"Here lies Pat Steele--that's very true;

Who was he? What was he? What's that to _you_?"

Yonder is a cross of wood under discussion at the present moment. It

states that "here lies Kate O'Shea and also her sister Mrs. Mary

Buckley," and that as "their father died last year, this is the end of

the O'Shea family." That thereby hangs a tale is very evident, and

yonder fat old lady on whose head a bit of a black bonnet is poised and

round whose shoulders a comfortable shawl is wrapped could and would

tell me if there were not so many listeners about, who knowing her love

of gossip keep sharp watch and ward, so that of those who are gone I

learn nothing, but of what is shortly to happen I hear more.

[Illustration: The Room in Doneraile Court where Mrs. Aldworth Hid]

A wedding is to take place in the modern church just here and we sit

round on the tombstones, awaiting the coming of the bride. There are

hints as to this bride which rouse my curiosity, and I decide to await

her coming, which shortly happens. She is a comely looking young woman,

modestly dressed in a green gown, and a blue hat with red roses thereon.

Her blue eyes do not possess a very happy look as they rest on the fat

middle-aged bridegroom, and the old lady on the tombstone next to me

heaves a sigh which tells unutterable things. Still, all seems going

smoothly and we follow into the church. The ceremony begins, and

progresses as usual to that point where the bride is asked if she takes

this man to be her wedded husband, when upon the amazed and horrified

ears of all falls the reply in sharp tones, "Indade, I won't," followed

by a swish of a blue skirt and a flash of red roses down the aisle and

out the door and the bride is gone. I leave a description of the hubbub

which followed to your imagination.

Getting finally outside, I find myself once more near the old lady of

ample proportions, and just in time to hear her remark "and him wid nine

illegant fat pigs and sivin suits of clothes _aich one better than the

other_." This entirely destroys my dignity and self-control and I double

up with laughter upon a neighbouring tombstone, whereupon the old lady,

after one look of grand amaze, gives me "the full of her back" and with

her "nose trun in the air" passes majestically away. I learn later that

of that bride they never again heard. Like the bubble on the river she

was gone and for ever.

The neighbourhood of Buttevant is full of interest to those who will

turn aside from the usual tour of Ireland. To-day we are off through the

green lanes for a visit to Kilcoman Castle, the home for some years of

the poet Spenser, and where he wrote his _Faerie Queene_. We shall later

visit the scenes of that poem.

In 1586 Spenser received some fifteen hundred acres of land from the

crown, and on them stood this ancient stronghold of the Desmonds, which

he made his home for years. Those were troublous times and he saw much

of their misery, and their sadness tinges his great poem.

He received but small acknowledgment for his work from Elizabeth, and

even that was objected to by Burleigh,--"What--so much for a song!"

This castle was sacked whilst he occupied it and he fled to London,

where he died in poverty.

The ruins rise from the midst of a green meadow some seven miles from

Buttevant, and consist of a lonely tower, to the top of which we mounted

by its ancient staircase within the walls. The tower chamber still has

its roof intact, but at its best the castle must have formed a poor

abiding-place even three centuries ago.

The prospect from the top is rather dreary, and we leave the spot

without regret.

Doneraile Court, in whose vast park were laid the scenes of the _Faerie

Queene_, is very different. It is now the property of Lord Castletown.

One more fully appreciates the comfort of a motor-car when forced

suddenly as we were last night to take a jaunting-car for a ride of nine

miles to Doneraile. That distance would be nothing at all in the former

vehicle, but is every inch of nine miles in the latter. It's no easy

matter to hold one's seat in these cars. If you happen to have a

trotting horse it's not so difficult, but if the beast is inclined to

canter, as ours was, the wheels of the car will almost leave the ground

with every canter, and chances are that you will desert the car

altogether. I came near doing so several times last night, and reached

the court in a breathless state, which the horse, with a wicked leer in

his eye, seemed to enjoy to the full. Tom, the driver, secure on his

perch in front, rode most of the way with his back to the horse, which

appeared to know whither we were bound, Tom the while discoursing to me

upon the charms of hunting in Ireland and showing me several of the

favourite jumping places. I did not enthuse; though I have ridden all my

life and hunted some, still a jump composed of a stone wall, a hedge,

and a deep drop on the far side did not commend itself to me, especially

as a man had "broken his neck there but lately." One can scarcely

understand such clumsiness on his part as the drop was quite sufficient

for horse and rider to turn a complete summersault, and still come out

right side up. However, I shall not try the trick, but that I would

hesitate for an instant, for such a reason, to join in the national

sport stamps me as unsportsmanlike--as one who will not buy a horse, and

that settles my position, in Ireland.

We approached Doneraile Court through the village of that name, which

clusters close under its park walls. Doneraile is quite _the_ place in

this section, and we find it a stately mansion presiding over one of the

most beautifully wooded parks in Great Britain.

These houses in Ireland, mostly all dating from the Restoration, are

commodious and ofttimes stately structures, and have a beauty all their

own and very different from anything in England, hence one cannot

compare them. This estate somewhat antedates that period as it was

purchased from Spenser's son by William St. Ledger, President of Munster

in Charles I.'s reign, and the town gives the title to the family.

Doneraile presents a lofty and attractive front to the park and the

attraction abides as one enters the spacious halls filled with the

trophies of the chase and with quaint arms gathered from all over the

world. In the distance a stately staircase mounts to the upper floors

and on the left is a suite of handsome withdrawing-rooms and a library,

while the dining-room holds on its walls many interesting family

portraits, one of which quite diverts my attention from the conversation

during dinner. It is that of Mrs. Aldworth, and shows a very strong,

determined countenance. The finger on that book indicates that you will

believe what she tells you or she will know the reason.

[Illustration: The Hon. Mrs. Aldworth

The only woman Freemason]

I have another picture of the lady from a painting in Doneraile,--never

photographed before,--but it is not so distinct as the one I give, and

is merely that of a beautiful woman, a woman of the world before her

character has been developed. Certainly none would dare claim--in her

presence at least--that the character of the lady in the portrait I do

give has not been developed, nor would it be well to cast any aspersions

upon that character. You may think you know a thing or two, but if wise

you will not dare the owner of that face yonder. Madam, I doubt not but

that you were the very best Mason the sun ever shone upon, so let me

alone, will you?

She was born in 1695, and her history is told us by Lord Castletown in

the room where its great event occurred.

It is the first on your right in front as you enter the mansion, and the

interest of the house centres there, for therein was being held in 1725

the Free-masons' lodge when the Hon. Mary St. Ledger, afterwards Mrs.

Aldworth, hid herself, some say in the great clock, and upon being

discovered was by those present condemned to death, when one man so

plead for her that her life was spared and she was made a full-fledged

Mason, the only one in the world's history. What could follow an

incident so romantic save a wedding, and it did follow shortly. It is

said that she was condemned for ever to wear clocks on her stockings,

hence that name for that bit of embroidery. It is also stated that

Aldworth at first voted for her death and she married him to pay him out

again. Whichever tale is correct it is stated that in later years he

more than regretted that he had not voted for her death, but he was

probably a degenerate man, for the face in yonder portrait was worth

fighting for. In the room where it all occurred are her masonic emblems,

a "square" about three inches long, the stone above an amethyst, the

rising sun above, gold, and the rays diamonds (or old paste), a greyish

stone, and yellow amethyst in alternate rays. A little thing to last

when she who wore it and created all this disturbance has been dust and

ashes since 1775.

The room is a double or alcoved apartment with bookcases ranged around

its walls, and still holds, I believe, the same furniture as upon the

eventful night.

The talk drifted onward about her and many other curious persons and

things, and the smoke from the cigars grew denser and denser until I

dreamed that I saw all sorts of vanished faces in the space around me,

and I fear that I was dreaming actually when aroused by Major Beddoes

and told that "the ladies are retiring" and so we lighted their candles

for them, and chatting a moment at the foot of the staircase, watched

them disappear above.

Burne-Jones must have gotten the idea for his famous picture from such a

scene. There is no place where a group of stately, beautifully gowned

women show to better advantage than upon a staircase. I was strongly

reminded of his painting on this occasion. After all the custom of good

night to the ladies with the lighting of candles and its pleasant chat

is a pretty one though you may object to their early disappearance and

would greatly prefer an hour's more talk with them than with your own

sex.

However, it is late to-night, and bidding our host adieu we move off

through the glades of the park where Spenser wandered and dreamt so long

ago, pausing a moment by the lake where the swans still drift as on a

surface of molten silver. The midsummer air is balmy and delightful and

a full moon lights up the woods until one almost fancies the Faerie

Queene is out in their glades with all her court, or adrift on the lake

with the swans.

My stay in the barracks is drawing to a close, and perhaps it is well.

Major Beddoes threatens me with arrest, fearing a riot if I am allowed

to wander around attending weddings and other functions to which I have

not been bidden.

During my sojourn I have employed a boy named Tom who owns a sprightly

horse and a jaunting-car not more than a century old, the latter

harnessed to the former by means of strings. We have had many a rare

drive between the hawthorn hedges, leaving the motor neglected in a

shed: its day will come.

I have been desirous since leaving Achill to hear again that mournful

cry for the dead,--"keening,"--and had arranged with Tom to bring two

old women into the barracks after dark, to whom I was to give half a

crown each and a bottle of--let us say "cologne"; but they did not

materialise and when I questioned Tom he replied, "Sure, sor, I had 'em

beyant Major Beddoe's rooms, but he druv 'em away."

"Certainly I did," chimed in the Major; "do you want me

court-martialled?"

I would not object if it were in a good cause. I think there is also a

bit of personal malice in his acts, as I laughed at him the other day.

He has lately married a charming wife, and is at present quartered in

Mallow, from whence he runs the nine miles in a motor-car of his new

father-in-law. When he made his first appearance the other day on the

barracks compound, with all the officers and their families assembled to

greet him, said motor-car looked as though it had been through the wars,

and was as pug-nosed as many of the aborigines of the land, caused by

sudden contacts with stone gates and the sides of houses, to say nothing

of unexpected excursions through old ladies' gardens and into gullies

not intended for motors. I laughed, I could not help it, hence the

malice aforesaid, with threats of arrest.

[Illustration: The Lake at Doneraile Park]

One day we are returning from a jaunt to nowhere in particular, having

been out just looking for things to happen,--which they generally

did,--when, as we draw near the barracks, we pass a dilapidated old trap

with some men inspecting it. One hails our boy with the query, "I say,

Tom, is that your family chariot?" Quick as thought comes the reply:

"Yes, and I am in want of a mule; are _you_ widout occupation?"

After that we find it advisable to order the car into the barracks

enclosure when dismissing it--at which time I get a wink from Tom--we

shortly find ourselves ensconced before a bright fire in the

smoking-room.

The quarters are very comfortable. This room is a large double apartment

with easy chairs and lounges, red rugs and carpets, two fire-places for

winter use, and books and cards galore. Downstairs there is a

billiard-room. The quarters of the officers are cleanly and comfortable,

the dwellers therein a healthy, happy looking lot, though they all agree

with what I have said about the bathrooms.

The regiment has collected its plate throughout all the years since its

foundation, nearly two centuries and a half, and it forms a superb

collection, which I examined with great interest.

When in 1661 Charles II. married Catherine of Braganza, Bombay was ceded

to England by Portugal as part of the dower of that princess. This

regiment of the Fusiliers was formed at that time and has been in

existence ever since. As the years have gone by this plate, now

amounting in value to some thousands of pounds, has been collected, and

the designs and taste of two and a half centuries are interestingly

displayed in the various articles, especially in the smaller pieces,

such as salt-cellars, snuff-boxes, etc. There are, of course, the

greater pieces, stately candelabra, drinking-cups, and epergnes. One

piece especially attracted my attention, a train of silver cars, each

holding its crystal decanter for port, sherry, brandy, etc., which after

the cloth was removed was rolled around the ancient table. This plate

and table go with the regiment at all times. It even went to South

Africa.

Captain D. got it all out for my inspection one day and assured me that

it was often in use even in war times.

Therein lies the difference between the English and Americans. They live

and we spend our lives getting ready to live, and rarely reach the goal.

A soldier especially realises that his life is but from day to day, and

therefore uses each day, with all he owns, to the full. An American

regiment would store such plate and it would be absolutely useless,

rarely if ever seeing the light of day,--but throughout its two

centuries and a half of existence this plate has had constant usage and

shows it.

Ah, well, what, I wonder, will be our manners and customs when our

nation, like this, has a thousand years to its credit? What will America

be, what will England be then? Let us trust both better and greater and

grander than they are now.

While I handle these dainty bits of silver that have outlasted the lives

of so many great men, Captain D. pours bits of gossip about army life

and the late war into my ears, and I notice that he does not hear very

well on one side, and ask why. "Oh, nothing much; a Boer bullet hit me

one day and clipped out a bit of my skull under my left eye, coming out

behind my ear, and destroying my sight and hearing on that side,--it was

not much." No! I suppose all soldiers would say it was merely in the

line of their profession, yet life is the best thing given to us, and

those who hold it at a nation's disposal should have the best that

nation can bestow at all times. I have no doubt but that each nation

intends to give all--they are careless, not ungrateful.

After these days of rest in Buttevant barracks, it is pleasant to see

again our green car glide round the corner and draw up at the door--not

that we have not used it while here. My sojourn with these soldiers of

the King has proven a delightful experience which I shall never forget.

As we are loaded up and the car is snorting to be off they crowd around

us and we make all sorts of appointments for future meetings, few of

which in the usual course of life will ever be carried out, but there is

pleasure in the making. With a last handshake, I give the word and the

car glides noiselessly forward, turns out through the great archway, and

Buttevant Barracks are a thing of the past for us,--really so, as this

regiment moves in September to Fermoy.

[Illustration: Photo by W. Leonard

Mallow Castle]

Wanderings in Ireland · 第 9 / 17 章