Sampan--Description of junk--Preserved eggs--Reception from
the English--H. M. S. Blonde--Mrs. Noble--Leave Chusan--Narrow
escape--H. M. S. Samarang--Leave Macao--Arrive at Spithead.
On getting outside the gate, we found an immense crowd assembled; they
did not molest us in the least, but we passed on very quietly. We were
taken through a different quarter of the town to any I had been in
before, but the streets were built and ornamented in the same manner;
they were lined, on both sides, with such a number of people, that
where they could all have come from I could not imagine. We went on
thus till we came to the gates of the city, where the mandarins were
assembled to see us pass out. The walls were about eighteen feet thick,
and twenty-five feet high; but the materials (stones and bricks) seemed
so loosely put together, that a swivel might very soon have made a
breach in them.
We were now in the suburbs, and close to the river, to which we were
taken; and each sedan being placed in a separate boat, we were soon
ferried across. The river here was divided into two branches, across
one of which we had just been carried; and we went down the left bank
of the other; it was about the breadth of the Thames at Westminster.
As they conveyed me over, I got out of the sedan, and looked back at
the place of my imprisonment. It seemed a large town, walled all round;
but in some places the walls were in a very ruinous condition. On the
ramparts and plain, outside the city, were thousands and thousands of
people.
We were carried down by the water-side, still in our sedans; and as
it was a cold day, and there was a good stiff breeze right in our
faces, I got out of the sedan, and walked between the poles. I observed
that I was not the only one, for I saw that all the white men were
walking also; the Lascars, having their legs still chained, were unable
to walk. The people in the villages turned out everywhere in great
numbers, to stare at us.
The crops were in some places beginning to make their appearance, and
almost every inch of ground was cultivated; all that appeared bad
unprofitable land was covered with tombs, and particularly the sides
of the hills; in summer, the white tombs peeping out from the high
grass and shrubs would have a very picturesque effect. The coffins
were placed on the ground, and some were covered over with bamboo and
matting; a very slight defence, which in many instances had given way,
and left parts of the coffins exposed; other graves had square tombs
over them, built of brick, and covered with a slab of red stone; but
in some of these the bricks had given way, and the slab falling in
on the coffin, had burst it open: others being, I suppose, for the
superior class, were built entirely of stone, curiously and rather
tastefully ornamented. The coffins being made of slight materials, the
smell on passing the burial places was very unpleasant.
We continued our journey, sometimes walking, sometimes in the sedan,
the officers scarcely ever allowing the bearers to rest, and indeed
beating them severely with sticks, and their heavy sheathed swords,
if they stopped for even a moment without leave. The old jailer was
with us, in a sedan, and seeing us walking, he spoke to the officer
commanding the party, who came and made signs for us to get into the
sedans; but it was far too cold for an open carriage, and besides,
after so long a confinement, the walk was agreeable. About dusk we came
to the gate of another city, walled round in the same manner as Ningpo.
We passed through several streets till we came to a large joshouse,
before which a number of people were assembled. We went into the outer
court, and perceived, by the sedans, that many mandarins and other
officers were within. Passing through a building in which were four
colossal figures, about twenty feet high, and painted in Chinese style,
we came to another yard, out of which Mrs. Noble and Mr. Witts were
taken in sedans just as we entered. I heard them speaking, but they
went past so quickly, that by the time I had jumped out of my sedan,
they were gone. I saw Lieut. Douglas and Captain Anstruther, who told
me that we were all to be released immediately, and that Mrs. Noble and
Mr. Witts had already started for Chusan, whither we were to follow as
soon as possible.
The interpreter then made his appearance, and desired me to follow him;
this I did, and soon found myself in the grand hall of the temple, in
the presence of a number of mandarins and other officers. The other
prisoners were here; and another interpreter, whom I had never seen
before, came round and asked our names and country; he could also speak
Bengalee, and therefore interpreted for the Lascars. They then took
the irons off the Lascars' legs, and after the mandarins had looked
at us for a short time, they took their departure, leaving us, with a
few officers, in the temple. I now had time to look about, and found
I was in a large hall, in the centre of which were three colossal
figures, gilded all over, very much resembling in appearance the
Hindostanee idols; under them was a smaller figure of a woman, painted
in gaudy colours, and on each side of her a small model of a temple.
Round the hall were other images, placed in niches, and amongst them I
particularly noticed one of a woman, with a glory round her head, and
holding a child in her arms, bearing altogether, a strong resemblance
to the virgin and child; two others sat side by side, of rather
singular appearance, one having a black face and hands, with a white
dress, and the other a white face and hands, and a black dress.
Several torches were placed in different parts of the wall, and the
flickering light from these, glancing over the gilded images and the
rich dresses of the officers, contrasted with our miserable appearance,
produced rather a singular scene. We did not remain here long, for
we soon had to return to our sedans, and were carried to the head
mandarin's house, to wait till a junk was ready for us. On the way
to his residence, I came to an open space, and before me could see
a number of small lights dancing about. I imagined this to be the
river, and the lights to be in boats, particularly as there was a
curious noise exactly like an immense number of ducks feeding; but, on
approaching nearer, I found myself in a camp, pitched on a large plain.
I was carried between two long rows of small tents, and before every
other tent was a sentinel, with a piece of bamboo in one hand, and a
stick in the other, with which he incessantly struck the bamboo, and
thereby caused the clacking noise which had deceived me. Before every
tenth tent another sentinel was stationed with a gong, which he struck
at intervals; they were keeping the first watch of the night, which was
about eight o'clock of our time. Having passed through the camp, we
came to the mandarin's house, and were conducted into a court, where
we found Lieut. Douglas and Captain Anstruther. A piazza ran round
this court, and under it we sat, having the pleasure of seeing the
mandarins' supper taken in, but none was brought for us, and we had had
nothing to eat since the morning.
Through Lieut. Douglas's remonstrances, a few cakes and some
hard-boiled eggs were at length presented to us; and Lieut. Douglas,
going to one of his boxes, brought out two bottles of rum, which were
very acceptable, and helped to pass away the time till twelve o'clock,
at which hour we left the house.
Lieut. Douglas here told me that several plans had been arranged for
our escape from Ningpo, but, from the known treachery of the Chinese,
they had been dropped. Others also for the escape of Mrs. Noble and
the officers had been concerted, and Mrs. Noble's jailer had even been
bribed to connive at the plan; but they most generously refused to go,
and leave us to the mercy of the Chinese. He also told me he had many
times tried to come to us again, but that the mandarins would never
allow him; they assured him, however, that our condition was materially
improved, that we had three or four hours' liberty every day, better
food, and a more comfortable apartment, all of which was false. The
unfortunate captive compradore the mandarins refused to give up at this
time, but said they would send him down to Canton, to be given up there.
The mandarin (whom I understood to be commissioner E.) having by this
time finished his supper, came to have a look at us. He desired the
interpreter to tell us "that he was very good to us, and was sending us
away before the time; that he himself was going to leave the island,
and another mandarin, the emperor's cousin, was coming in his place;
that if he arrived before our departure, he would most probably keep
us, and not let us go at all: at the same time he desired Lieut.
Douglas to tell the commanding officer at Chusan, to withdraw his men
and ships as soon as we were given up to them; also that a great many
soldiers would march into Chusan as soon as our fleet left." We then
walked out, about midnight, to go to the junk; on our way down, we
passed through two long files of soldiers, drawn up on each side of the
road, most unmilitary looking warriors; their only uniform was a loose
jacket, with some Chinese characters inscribed on the back and front;
the rest of their dress seemed left to their own taste, and a motley
group they were. They appeared to be divided into three bands, one
bearing long unwieldy spears, another bows and arrows, and the third
having a sword in each hand; these, the interpreter told us, were to
embark the next day for Chusan. At the end of each file of soldiers
a huge gun was placed, of immense thickness, but small calibre, not
carrying, I should think, more than a twenty-four pound shot, if so
much.
When we arrived at the water's edge, we found a sampan, or small
boat, waiting; the Lascars and most of the Europeans having preceded
us, Lieut. Douglas, Captain Anstruther, myself, and the others, got
into the sampan, and were soon sculled alongside a junk, which the
interpreter, who was with us, told us was only waiting for high water
(which would be about three o'clock A. M.) to get under weigh.
Mrs. Noble, and Mr. Witts, our chief mate, who had preceded us, were in
one junk; the Lascars, who had also reached the water before us, were
in another; and our party, Lieut. Douglas, Captain Anstruther, and the
Europeans, got aboard of the third. Here we found our rugs, and after
partaking of some slight refreshment, in the shape of hot water and
sweet cakes, we lay down to sleep. About three o'clock the junk was got
under weigh, and when I got up in the morning I found that we were out
of the river, and sailing between some islands, and the interpreter
told us we should soon be at Chusan.
The vessel was covered over with tilts, made of split bamboo, leaving
only the forecastle and poop exposed; under the forecastle-deck was the
tank, and on deck was a sampan, which could be launched at will. The
poop was a very small place, there being only room enough to work the
tiller; and when the wind was adverse, the long tiller was unshipped,
and a short one used instead, and the vessel propelled by means of a
large sweep, which five or six men handled, sculling in the same manner
as we do. The sails were made of cotton, with an immense number of
bowlines, and the tilts were sufficiently strong to allow the men to
walk upon them, and stow or set the mainsail.
Under the covering were three divisions, or holds, in the foremost of
which the soldiers, our guard, and the crew were; in the middle one a
number of boxes (the cargo, I presume) were stowed, and in the third we
ten Europeans were. Abaft this was the cabin, which Captain Anstruther,
Lieut. Douglas, the interpreter, a mandarin, and the captain of the
vessel, occupied.
Breakfast was set before us about eight o'clock, consisting of rice,
very white, and well boiled, pig's cheek in small pieces, eggs,
preserved, I think, in lard, as they were very greasy, pickled fish,
and various other things; had I not been able to distinguish the mark
of division between the yolk and white of the eggs, I should not have
discovered what they were, as they certainly had neither the taste nor
appearance of eggs, being of a deep chocolate colour; however, they,
and all the other things, were very good, and we made an excellent
breakfast.
The Chinese now pointed out whereabouts Chusan lay, and we saw, over
a point of land, the masts of some English vessels. About ten o'clock
we rounded the point, and got into the bay, where several men-of-war
and transports were lying; we soon were abreast of them, and a boat
from one of the men-of-war came alongside, and finding that we were
on board, made a signal to their vessel, when the lower rigging was
manned, and they gave us three cheers; on seeing this, the other
men-of-war and transports did the same, and the bands on board the
transports struck up "Rule Brittania." What my feelings were at
the moment may more easily be imagined than described; after five
months' imprisonment I was once more free, and in the hands of my own
countrymen. I was pennyless, and I might also say naked, for I knew
that the clothes I had on would have to be thrown away; but I was
going amongst Englishmen, and at that time no anxiety for the future
troubled me.
We Europeans were taken on board of H. M. S. Blonde, captain Bourchier,
where we were rejoiced to meet Mrs. Noble again, and congratulate each
other on our liberation. Mrs. Noble the same day left us, and went
on board a transport: I went to see her again at Macao, where she
remained. Lieut. Douglas and Mr. Witts remained on board the Blonde,
Captain Anstruther went to a transport, and joined his regiment, and
the Lascars were sent on board another transport.
The next day we left Chusan, and arrived in a few days at the entrance
of the Canton river, where H. M. S. Columbine informed us that
hostilities had again commenced, and that the forts at the Bogue had
been taken a week before.
A short time afterwards we heard that, two days after our release from
Ningpo, an order had arrived there from the emperor of China, that all
the prisoners were to be sent to Pekin, to be publicly exhibited, and
then put to death, by being cut into a thousand pieces.
Report also said that Commissioner E., who had rather hurried our
departure, had been sent in irons to the capital for having released us.
The Blonde proceeded up to Whampoa, and I was on board of her
altogether a month, when, at our request, we were sent down to Macao in
the Hebe tender, where we saw Captain Elliot, the Plenipotentiary, and
Lieut. Douglas. They procured a passage for Twizell, Webb, Wombwell,
and myself to England, in H. M. S. Samarang, Captain Scott; but
afterwards, Twizell having gone ashore to buy some clothes for us, the
ship got under weigh, and he was left behind.
We left Macao on the 29th March, 1841, and having touched at the
Mauritius, St. Helena, and Ascension, anchored at Spithead on Monday,
the 10th August. On Wednesday we left the ship, and proceeded to
London.
To Lieut. Douglas and Captain Anstruther I shall ever feel most
grateful for their kindness towards us, and their unceasing endeavours
to ameliorate the miserable condition of their fellow-prisoners at
Ningpo.
NOTES.
NOTE 1, _Page 8_.
Lord Jocelyn, in his "Campaign in China," gives a very erroneous
account of the loss of the Kite, but as he obtained his information
from some mandarins, they of course would tell the story in such a
manner, as to make it appear that we were prisoners of war.
NOTE 2, _Page 13_.
In Mrs. Noble's letter, which was published in the "Indian News," it is
stated by her that she passed the wreck twice on the 16th, and spoke
to us; but as we left it on the night of the 15th, they must have been
Chinese she saw, and whom she at a distance mistook for the crew.
NOTE 3, _Page 20_.
Syrang is the head or chief of every party of Lascars, and has under
him one or more assistants, called Tyndals, according to the number
of his men; he receives the pay, and manages the affairs of the whole
party.
NOTE 4, _Page 40_.
I saw this kind of hall in every house I entered, and at the time
imagined that it was dedicated to the Chinese penates; but I have
since found, from "Davis's Chinese," that it is called the "Hall of
Ancestors;" so throughout my story I have given it its right name.
NOTE 5, _Page 44_.
This was the compradore, or purveyor, who had been kidnapped before I
left Chusan, so that he must have been some time in imprisonment. He
had been brought with the fleet from Macao, to act as an interpreter
and purveyor.
NOTE 6, _Page 46_.
These Lascars had been captured at different times at Chusan, whilst
engaged in getting fresh water for their ships. I believe there were
regular bands of Chinese round the place, who seized every foreigner
they found wandering at a distance from his party. One of the people,
belonging to a man-of-war in the harbour, having sauntered some
little distance from his companions, was suddenly seized, and was
being dragged off with a rope round his neck. Fortunately for him,
his comrades were near, and, hearing the noise, went immediately to
his rescue, and turned the tables upon the Chinese; for, taking their
weapons from them, they very soon drove them off, killing several in
the skirmish. It was by one of these bands that Captain Anstruther was
taken.
NOTE 7, _Page 49_.
The tails, of which they are so exceedingly proud, are, with many of
them, formed mostly of false hair and silks, plaited together. To be
deprived of this ornament is, I believe, almost as great a disgrace as
can befall them.
NOTE 8, _Page 66_.
In our close confinement we could see nothing of their religious
ceremonies; once or twice, however, I saw our old jailer making his
offerings to his gods. The domestic having placed three tables in
different parts of the yard, (one being exactly before our window,)
ranged round the edge of each nine basins, with chopsticks to all; they
then filled the cups with hot rice, and covered the tables with plates
of pork, fish, and vegetables, and by the side of every table placed a
pile of thin paper. Before each of these tables the old gentleman knelt
three times, bowing his head to the ground thrice each time; after
this he filled a small cup with samshu, and setting fire to the heap
of paper, sprinkled the samshu over the blaze. When he had prostrated
himself before all the tables, and burnt the three heaps, he retired to
his apartment, and the servants removed the whole apparatus. I suppose
his devotions had made him charitable; for all the good things he had
prepared for his deities, he distributed amongst us poor prisoners.
Several of the respectable people had, at various times, asked me by
signs, if the cross were my religion, to which I of course replied in
the affirmative.
NOTE 9, _Page 75_.
I think that the Lascars' custom of eating with their hands, in some
measure caused the Chinese to treat them with more severity, than they
did the Europeans. In lifting the rice to their mouths they generally
spilt a little, and there was always some left on the floor after
meals; this seemed to shock the Chinese excessively, and the jailer
told us "that lightning would fall from heaven, and destroy those who
wasted God's bounties."
THE END.
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