ARTISTS AND ARABS;
OR
Sketching in Sunshine
By Henry Blackburn,
Author Of 'Normandy Picturesque,' 'The Pyrenees,' 'Travelling In Spain,'
Etc.
Second Edition.
With Numerous Illustrations.
London:
Sampson Low, Son, And Marston,
1870.
ARGUMENT.
The advantage of winter studios abroad, and the value of sketching in
the open air; especially in Algeria.
'The best thing the author of a book can do, is to tell the reader, on a
piece of paper an inch square, what he means by it.'--Athenaeum.
[Illustration: 0019]
ARTISTS AND ARABS.
CHAPTER I. ON THE WING.
[Illustration: 9019]
Y the middle of the month of July, the Art season in London was on the
wane, and by the end of August the great body of English artists had
dispersed, some, the soundest workers perhaps, to the neighbourhood of
Welsh mountains and English homesteads, to--'The silence of thatched
cottages and the voices of blossoming fields.'
From the Tweed to the Shetland Isles, they were thick upon the hills;
in every nook and corner of England, amongst the cornfields and upon the
lakes; in the valleys and torrent beds of Wales, the cry was still 'they
come.'
On the continent, both artists and amateurs were everywhere. Smith
toiling across the Campagna with the thermometer at 95 (his reward
a quiet pipe at the 'café Greco' when the sun goes down) is but a
counterpart of a hundred other Smiths scattered abroad. In the
galleries of Florence and Rome no more easels could be admitted, and
in Switzerland and Savoy the little white tents and 'sun-umbrellas'
glistened on the mountain side. Brown might be seen rattling down an
arrête from the Flegére, with his _matériel_ swung across his back, like
a carpenter's basket, after a hard day's work sketching the Aiguilles
that tower above the valley of Chamounix; and Jones, with his little
wife beside him, sitting under the deep shade of the beech-trees in the
valley of Sixt.
We were a sketching party, consisting of two, three or four, according
to convenience or accident, wandering about and pitching our tent in
various places away from the track of tourists; we had been spending
most of the summer days in the beautiful Val d'Aosta (that school for
realistic work that a great teacher once selected for his pupil, giving
him three months to study its chesnut groves, 'to brace his mind to a
comprehension of facts'); we had prolonged the summer far into autumn on
the north shore of the Lago Maggiore, where from the heights above the
old towns of Intra and Pallanza we had watched its banks turn from green
to golden and from gold to russet brown. The mountains were no longer
_en toilette_, as the French express it, and the vineyards were stripped
of their purple bloom; the wind had come down from the Simplon in sudden
and determined gusts, and Monte Rosa no longer stood alone in her robe
of white; the last visitor had left the Hôtel de l'Univers at Pallanza,
and our host was glad to entertain us at the rate of four francs a day
'tout compris'--when the question came to us, as it does to so many
other wanderers in Europe towards the end of October, where to go for
winter quarters, where to steal yet a further term of summer days.
Should we go again to Spain to study Velasquez and Murillo, should we go
as usual to Rome; or should we strike out a new path altogether and go
to Trebizond, Cairo, Tunis, or Algeria?
There was no agreeing on the matter, diversity of opinion was very
great and discussion ran high (the majority we must own, having leanings
towards Rome and _chic_; and also 'because there would be more fun');
so, like true Bohemians, we tossed for places and the lot fell upon
Algeria.
The next morning we are on the way. Trusting ourselves and our baggage
to one of those frail-looking little boats with white awnings, that form
a feature in every picture of Italian lake scenery, and which, in their
peculiar motion and method of propulsion (the rower standing at the
stern and facing his work), bear just sufficient resemblance to the
Venetian gondola to make us chafe a little at the slow progress we
make through the smooth water, we sit and watch the receding towers of
Pallanza, as it seems, for the livelong day. There is nothing to relieve
the monotony of motion, and scarcely a sound to break the stillness,
until we approach the southern shore, and it becomes a question of
anxiety as to whether we shall really reach Arona before sundown. But
the old boatman is not to be moved by any expostulation or entreaty,
nor is he at all affected by the information that we run great risk of
losing the last train from Arona; and so we are spooned across the great
deep lake at the rate of two or three miles an hour, and glide into the
harbour with six inches of water on the flat-bottom of the boat amongst
our portmanteaus.
From Arona to Genoa by railway, and from Genoa to Nice by the Cornice
road--that most beautiful of all drives, where every variety of grandeur
and loveliness of view, both by sea and land, seems combined, and from
the heights of which, if we look seaward and scan the southern horizon,
we can sometimes trace an irregular dark line, which is Corsica--past
Mentone and Nice, where the 'winter swallows' are arriving fast; making
a wonderful flutter in their nests, all eagerness to obtain the most
comfortable quarters, * and all anxiety to have none but 'desirable'
swallows for neighbours. This last is a serious matter, this settling
down for the winter at Nice, for it is here that the swallows
choose their mates, pairing off wonderfully in the springtime, like
grouse-shooting M.P.s in August.
* Necessary enough, to be protected from the cold blasts
that sweep down the valleys, as many invalids know to their
cost, who have taken houses or lodgings hastily at Nice.
A few hours' journey by railway and we are at Marseilles, where
(especially at the 'Grand Hotel') it is an understood and settled thing
that every Englishman is on his way, to or from Italy or India, and it
requires considerable perseverance to impress upon the attendants that
the steamer which sails at noon for Algiers is the one on which our
baggage is to be placed, and it is almost impossible to persuade the
driver of a fiacre that we do _not_ want to go by the boat just starting
for Civita Vecchia or Leghorn.
On stepping on board it almost seems as if there were some mistake, for
we appear to be the only passengers on the after deck, and to be looked
upon with some curiosity by the swarthy half-naked crew, who talk
together in an unknown tongue; notwithstanding that at the packet
office in the town we were informed that we could not secure berths for
certain.
We have several hours to wait and to look about us, for the mail is
not brought on board until three in the afternoon, and it is half-past,
before the officials have kissed each other on both cheeks and we are
really moving off--threading our way with difficulty through the mass of
shipping which hems us in on all sides.
The foredeck of the _Akhbar_ is one mass of confusion and crowding, but
the eye soon detects the first blush of oriental colour and costume, and
on nearer inspection it is easy to distinguish a few white bournouses
moving through the crowd. There are plenty of Zouaves in undress
uniforms, chiefly young men, with a superfluity of medals and the
peculiar swagger which seems inseparable from this costume; others old
and bronzed, who have been to Europe on leave and are returning to join
their regiments. Some parting scenes we witness between families of the
peasant order, of whom there appear to be a number on board, and their
friends who leave in the last boat for the shore. These, one and all,
take leave of each other with a significant 'au revoir,' which is the
key-note to the whole business, and tells us (who are not studying
politics and have no wish or intention, to trouble the reader with
the history or prospects of the colony) the secret of its ill-success,
viz.:--that these colonists _intend_ to _come back_, and that they are
much too near home in Algeria.
Looking down upon the fore-deck, as we leave the harbour of Marseilles,
there seems scarcely an available inch of space that is not encumbered
with bales and goods of all kinds; with heaps of rope and chain,
military stores, piles of arms, cavalry-horses, sheep, pigs, and a
prodigious number of live fowls.
On the after-deck there are but six passengers, there is a Moorish Jew
talking fluently with a French commercial traveller, a sad and silent
officer of Chasseurs with his young wife, and two lieutenants who
chatter away with the captain; the latter, in consideration of his rank
as an officer in the Imperial Marine, leaving the mate to take charge
of the vessel during the entire voyage. This gentleman seems to the
uninitiated to be a curious encumbrance, and to pass his time in
conversation, in sleep, and in the consumption of bad cigars. He is 6
a disappointed man' of course, as all officers are, of whatever nation,
age, or degree.
The voyage averages forty-eight hours, but is often accomplished in less
time on the southward journey. It is an uncomfortable period even in
fine weather, just too long for a pleasure trip, and just too short to
settle down and make up one's mind to it, as in crossing the Atlantic.
Our boat is an old Scotch screw, which has been lent to the Company of
the _Messageries Impériales_ for winter duty--the shaft hammering and
vibrating through the saloon and after-cabins incessantly for the first
twenty-four hours, whilst she labours against a cross sea in the Gulf of
Lyons, indisposes' the majority of the company, and the captain dines
by himself; but about noon on the next day it becomes calm, and the
_Akhbar_ steams quietly between the Balearic Islands, close enough for
us to distinguish one or two churches and white houses, and a square
erection that a fellow-traveller informs us is the work of the 'Majorca
Land, Compagnie Anglaise.'
In the following little sketch we have indicated the appearance in
outline of the two islands of Majorca and Minorca as we approach them
going southward, passing at about equal distances between the islands.
[Illustration: 0029]
The sea is calm and the sky is bright as we leave the islands behind us,
and the _Akhbar_ seems to skim more easily through the deep blue water,
leaving a wake of at least a mile, and another wake in the sky of sea
gulls, who follow us for the rest of the voyage in a graceful undulating
line, sleeping on the rigging at night unmolested by the crew, who
believe in their good omen.
On the second morning on coming on deck we find ourselves in the
tropics, the sky is a deep azure, the heat is intense, and the
brightness of everything is wonderful. The sun's rays pour down on the
vessel, and their effect on the occupants of the fore-deck is curious to
witness. The odd heaps of clothing that had lain almost unnoticed during
the voyage suddenly come to life, and here and there a dark visage peeps
from under a tarpaulin, from the inside of a coil of rope, or from a box
of chain, and soon the whole vessel, both the fore and after-deck,
is teeming with life, and we find at least double the number of human
beings on board that we had had any idea of at starting.
But the interest of every one is now centred on a low dark line of
coast, with a background of mountains, which every minute becomes more
defined; and we watch it until we can discern one or two of the highest
peaks, tipped with snow. Soon we can make out a bright green, or rather
as it seems in the sunlight, a golden shore, set with a single gem that
sparkles in the water. Again it changes into the aspect of a little
white pyramid or triangle of chalk on a green shore shelving to the sea,
next into an irregular mass of houses with flat roofs, and mosques
with ornamented towers and cupolas, surrounded and surmounted by grim
fortifications, which are not Moorish; and in a little while we can
distinguish the French houses and hotels, a Place, a modern harbour and
lighthouse, docks, and French shipping, and one piratical-looking craft
that passes close under our bows, manned by dark sailors with bright red
sashes and large earrings, dressed like the fishermen in the opera of
Mas-aniello. And whilst we are watching and taking it all in, we have
glided to our moorings, close under the walls of the great Mosque
(part of which we have sketched from this very point of view); and are
surrounded by a swarm of half-naked, half-wild and frantic figures, who
rush into the water vociferating and imploring us in languages difficult
to understand, to be permitted to carry the Franks' baggage to the
shore.
Taking the first that comes, we are soon at the landing steps and beset
by a crowd of beggars, touters, idlers and nondescripts of nearly every
nation and creed under heaven.
[Illustration: 0033]
[Illustration: 0035]