CHAPTER XXXIII

FANCY CAKES AND CONFECTIONS

Almond paste for making macaroons and small fancy cakes may be bought of

dealers who keep confectioners’ supplies, although sometimes a resident

baker or confectioner will sell a small quantity. Almond paste is put up

in five-pound tin pails, and retails for one and one-half dollars per

pail. During the cold weather it will keep after being opened for a long

time.

Macaroons

½ lb. almond paste

Whites 3 eggs

⅜ lb. powdered sugar

Work together almond paste and sugar on a smooth board or marble slab.

Then add whites of eggs gradually, and work until mixture is perfectly

smooth. Confectioners at first use the hand, afterwards a palette knife,

which is not only of use for mixing but for keeping board clean. Shape,

using a pastry bag and tube, on a tin sheet covered with buttered paper,

one-half inch apart; or drop mixture from tip of spoon in small piles.

Macaroon mixture is stiff enough to hold its shape, but in baking

spreads. Bake fifteen to twenty minutes in a slow oven. If liked soft,

they should be slightly baked. After removing from oven, invert paper,

and wet with a cloth wrung out of cold water, when macaroons will easily

slip off.

Almond Macaroons

Sprinkle Macaroons, before baking, with almonds blanched and shredded,

or chopped.

Crescents

½ lb. almond paste

2 ozs. confectioners’ sugar

White 1 small egg

Almonds, blanched and finely chopped

Mix same as Macaroons. Shape mixture, which is quite soft, in a long

roll. Cut pieces from roll three-fourths inch long. Roll each separately

in chopped nuts, at the same time shaping to form a crescent. Bake

twenty minutes on a buttered tin sheet in a slow oven. Cool, and frost

with Confectioners’ Frosting, made thin enough to apply with a brush,

and flavored with lemon juice until quite acid. Other nuts may be used

in place of almonds.

Cinnamon Bars

10 ozs. almond paste

5 ozs. confectioners’ sugar

White 1 egg

½ teaspoon cinnamon

Mix same as Macaroons. Dredge a board with sugar, knead mixture

slightly, and shape in a long roll. Pat, and roll one-fourth inch thick,

using a rolling-pin. After rolling the piece should be four inches wide.

Spread with frosting made of white of one egg and two-thirds cup

confectioners’ sugar beaten together until stiff enough to spread. Cut

in strips four inches long by three-fourths inch wide. This must be

quickly done, as a crust soon forms over frosting. To accomplish this,

use two knives, one placed through mixture where dividing line is to be

made, and the other used to make a clean sharp cut on both sides of

first knife. Knives should be kept clean by wiping on a damp cloth.

Remove strips as soon as cut, to a tin sheet, greased with lard and then

floured. Bake twenty minutes on centre grate in a slow oven.

Horseshoes

Use Cinnamon Bar mixture. Cover with frosting colored with fruit red.

Cut in strips six inches long by one-half inch wide. As soon as cut,

shape quickly, at the same time carefully, in form of horseshoes. Bake

same as Cinnamon Bars. When cool, make eight dots with chocolate

frosting to represent nails.

Cocoanut Cakes I

½ lb. fresh grated cocoanut

Whites 1½ eggs

6 ozs. sugar and glucose, using one mixing-spoon glucose

_German Confectioner_

Cook cocoanut, sugar, and glucose in double boiler until mixture clings

to spoon, add whites of eggs, stir vigorously, and cook until mixture

feels sticky when tried between the fingers. Spread in a wet pan, cover

with wet paper, and chill on ice. Shape in small balls, first dipping

hands in cold water. Bake twenty minutes in a slow oven on a tin sheet

greased with white wax.

Cocoanut Cakes II

1 lb. fresh grated cocoanut

¾ lb. sugar

Whites 2 eggs

Cook, shape, and bake same as Cocoanut Cakes I.

Stuffed Dates I

Make a cut the entire length of dates and remove stones. Fill cavities

with castanea nuts, English walnuts, or blanched almonds, and shape in

original form. Roll in granulated sugar. Pile in rows on a small plate

covered with a doily. If castanea nuts are used, with a sharp knife cut

off the brown skin which lies next to shell.

Stuffed Dates II

Remove stones from dates and fill cavities with Neufchâtel cheese.

Salted Almonds I

Blanch one-fourth pound Jordan almonds and dry on a towel. Put one-third

cup olive oil in a very small saucepan. When hot, put in one-fourth of

the almonds and fry until delicately browned, stirring to keep almonds

constantly in motion. Remove with a spoon or small skimmer, taking up as

little oil as possible. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with salt;

repeat until all are fried. It may be necessary to remove some of the

salt by wiping nuts with a napkin.

Salted Almonds II

Prepare almonds as for Salted Almonds I. Fry in one-third cup fat, using

half lard and half clarified butter or all cocoanut butter. Drain, and

sprinkle with salt.

Salted Peanuts

In buying peanuts for salting, get those which have not been roasted.

Remove skins and fry same as Salted Almonds I or II.

Salted Pecans

Shelled pecans may be bought by the pound, which is much the best way

when used for salting, as it is difficult to remove the nut meat without

breaking. Fry same as salted Almonds I or II. Care must be taken that

they do not remain in fat too long; having a dark skin, color does not

determine when they are sufficiently cooked.

Parisian Sweets

1 lb. figs

1 lb. dates

1 lb. English walnut meat

Confectioners’ sugar

Pick over and remove stems from figs and stones from dates. Mix fruit

with walnut meat, and force through a meat chopper. Work, using the

hands, on a board dredged with confectioners’ sugar, until well blended.

Roll to one-fourth inch thickness, using confectioners’ sugar for

dredging board and pin. Shape with a small round cutter, first dipped in

sugar, or cut with a sharp knife in three-fourth inch squares. Roll each

piece in confectioners’ sugar, and shake to remove superfluous sugar.

Pack in layers in a tin box, putting paper between each layer. These

confections may be used at dinner in place of bonbons or ginger chips. A

combination of nut meat (walnut, almond, and filbert) may be used in

equal proportions.

Sugared Popped Corn

2 quarts popped corn

2 tablespoons butter

2 cups brown sugar

½ cup water

Put butter in saucepan, and when melted add sugar and water. Bring to

boiling-point, and let boil sixteen minutes. Pour over corn, and stir

until every kernel is well coated with sugar.

Molasses Candy

2 cups Porto Rico molasses

⅔ cup sugar

3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon vinegar

An iron kettle with a rounding bottom (Scotch kettle) or copper kettle

is best for candy making. If one has no copper kettle, a granite kettle

is best for sugar candies.

Put butter in kettle, place over fire, and when melted, add molasses and

sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. During the first of the boiling

stirring is unnecessary, but when nearly cooked, it should be constantly

stirred. Boil until, when tried in cold water, mixture will become

brittle. Add vinegar just before taking from fire. Pour into a well

buttered pan. When cool enough to handle, pull until porous and

light-colored, allowing candy to come in contact with tips of fingers

and thumbs, not to be squeezed in the hand. Cut in small pieces, using

large shears or a sharp knife, and then arrange on slightly buttered

plates to cool.

Velvet Molasses Candy

1 cup molasses

3 cups sugar

1 cup boiling water

3 tablespoons vinegar

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

½ cup melted butter

¼ teaspoon soda

Put first four ingredients in kettle placed over front of range. As soon

as boiling-point is reached, add cream of tartar. Boil until, when tried

in cold water, mixture will become brittle. Stir constantly during last

part of cooking. When nearly done, add butter and soda. Pour into a

buttered pan and pull same as Molasses Candy. While pulling, add one

teaspoon vanilla, one-half teaspoon lemon extract, few drops oil of

peppermint, or few drops oil of wintergreen.

Buttercups

2 cups molasses

1 cup sugar

½ cup boiling water

2 tablespoons butter

⅓ teaspoon cream of tartar

Fondant flavored with vanilla

Boil ingredients (except fondant) until, when tried in cold water, a

firm ball may be formed in the fingers, not stirring until the last few

minutes of cooking. Pour on a buttered platter, and when cool enough to

handle, pull until light-colored. Shape on a floured board, having strip

wide enough to enclose a roll of fondant one inch in diameter. Place

fondant on candy, bring edges of candy together, and press firmly over

fondant. With both hands pull candy into a long strip. Cut in small

pieces; each piece will consist of fondant encircled with molasses

candy. Care must be taken that candy is not cooked too long, as it

should be soft rather than brittle.

Vinegar Candy

2 cups sugar

½ cup vinegar

2 tablespoons butter

Put butter into kettle; when melted, add sugar and vinegar. Stir until

sugar is dissolved, afterwards occasionally. Boil until, when tried in

cold water, mixture will become brittle. Turn on a buttered platter to

cool. Pull, and cut same as Molasses Candy.

Ice Cream Candy

3 cups sugar

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

½ cup boiling water

½ tablespoon vinegar

Boil ingredients together without stirring, until, when tried in cold

water, mixture will become brittle. Turn on a well buttered platter to

cool. As edges cool, fold towards centre. As soon as it can be handled,

pull until white and glossy. While pulling, flavor as desired, using

vanilla, orange extract, coffee extract, oil of sassafras, or melted

chocolate. Cut in sticks or small pieces.

Butter Scotch

1 cup sugar

¼ cup molasses

1 tablespoon vinegar

2 tablespoons boiling water

½ cup butter

Boil ingredients together until, when tried in cold water, mixture will

become brittle. Turn into a well buttered pan; when slightly cool, mark

with a sharp-pointed knife in squares. This candy is much improved by

cooking a small piece of vanilla bean with other ingredients.

Butter Taffy

2 cups light brown sugar

¼ cup molasses

2 tablespoons vinegar

2 tablespoons water

⅞ teaspoon salt

¼ cup butter

2 teaspoons vanilla

Boil first five ingredients until, when tried in cold water mixture will

become brittle. When nearly done, add butter, and just before turning

into pan, vanilla. Cool, and mark in squares.

Horehound Candy

¾ square inch pressed horehound

2 cups boiling water

3 cups sugar

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

Pour boiling water over horehound which has been separated in pieces;

let stand one minute, then strain through double cheese-cloth. Put into

a granite kettle with remaining ingredients, and boil until, when tried

in cold water, mixture will become brittle. Turn into a buttered pan,

cool slightly, then mark in small squares. Small square packages of

horehound may be bought for five cents.

Chocolate Caramels

2½ tablespoons butter

2 cups molasses

1 cup brown sugar

½ cup milk

3 squares chocolate

1 teaspoon vanilla

Put butter into kettle; when melted, add molasses, sugar, and milk. Stir

until sugar is dissolved, and when boiling-point is reached, add

chocolate, stirring constantly until chocolate is melted. Boil until,

when tried in cold water, a firm ball may be formed in the fingers. Add

vanilla just after taking from fire. Turn into a buttered pan, cool, and

mark in small squares.

Nut Chocolate Caramels

To Chocolate Caramels add the meat from one pound English walnuts broken

in pieces, or one-half pound almonds blanched and chopped.

Rich Chocolate Caramels

2 tablespoons butter

½ cup milk

½ cup sugar

1 cup molasses

4 squares chocolate

1 cup walnut meats, broken in pieces

2 teaspoons vanilla

Put butter in saucepan and when melted add milk, sugar and molasses.

When boiling-point is reached add chocolate, and cook until brittle when

tried in cold water, stirring occasionally to prevent mixture from

adhering to pan. Remove from fire, beat three minutes, add nut meats and

vanilla, and turn into a buttered pan. When cold cut in squares and wrap

in paraffine paper.

Peanut Nougat

1 lb. sugar

1 quart peanuts

Shell, remove skins, and finely chop peanuts. Sprinkle with one-fourth

teaspoon salt. Put sugar in a perfectly smooth granite saucepan, place

on range, and stir constantly until melted to a syrup, taking care to

keep sugar from sides of pan. Add nut meat, pour at once into a warm

buttered tin, and mark in small squares. If sugar is not removed from

range as soon as melted, it will quickly caramelize.

Nut Bar

Cover the bottom of a buttered shallow pan with one and one-third cups

nut meat (castaneas, English walnuts, or almonds) cut in quarters. Pour

over one pound sugar, melted as for Peanut Nougat. Mark in bars.

French Nougat

½ lb. confectioners’ sugar

¼ lb. almonds, blanched and finely chopped

Confectioners’ chocolate

Put sugar in a saucepan, place on range, and stir constantly until

melted; add almonds, and pour on an oiled marble. Fold mixture as it

spreads with a broad-bladed knife, keeping it constantly in motion.

Divide in four parts, and as soon as cool enough to handle shape in long

rolls about one-third inch in diameter, keeping rolls in motion until

almost cold. When cold, snap in pieces one and one-half inches long.

This is done by holding roll at point to be snapped over the sharp edge

of a broad-bladed knife and snapping. Melt confectioners’ chocolate over

hot water, beat with a fork until light and smooth, and when slightly

cooled dip pieces in chocolate and with a two-tined fork or bonbon

dipper remove from chocolate to oiled paper, drawing dipper through top

of each the entire length, thus leaving a ridge. Chocolate best adapted

for dipping bonbons and confections must be bought where confectioners’

supplies are kept.

Nougatine Drops

Drop French Nougat mixture from the tip of a spoon on an oiled marble

very soon after taking from fire. These drops have a rough surface. When

cold, dip in melted confectioners’ chocolate.

Wintergreen Wafers

1 oz. gum tragacanth

1 cup cold water

Confectioners’ sugar

Oil of wintergreen

Soak gum tragacanth in water twenty-four hours and rub through a fine

wire sieve; add enough confectioners’ sugar to knead. Flavor with a few

drops of oil of wintergreen. If liked pink, color with fruit red. Roll

until very thin on a board or marble dredged with sugar. Shape with a

small round cutter or cut in three-fourths inch squares. Spread wafers,

cover, and let stand until dry and brittle. This mixture may be flavored

with oil of lemon, clove, sassafras, etc., and colored as desired.

Cocoanut Cream Candy

1½ cups sugar

½ cup milk

2 teaspoons butter

⅓ cup shredded cocoanut

½ teaspoon vanilla

Put butter into granite saucepan; when melted, add sugar and milk, and

stir until sugar is dissolved. Heat to boiling-point, and boil twelve

minutes; remove from fire, add cocoanut and vanilla, and beat until

creamy and mixture begins to sugar slightly around edge of saucepan.

Pour at once into a buttered pan, cool slightly, and mark in squares.

One-half cup nut meat, broken in pieces, may be used in place of

cocoanut.

Chocolate Cream Candy

2 cups sugar

⅔ cup milk

1 tablespoon butter

2 squares chocolate

1 teaspoon vanilla

Put butter into granite saucepan; when melted, add sugar and milk. Heat

to boiling-point; then add chocolate, and stir constantly until

chocolate is melted. Boil thirteen minutes, remove from fire, add

vanilla, and beat until creamy and mixture begins to sugar slightly

around edge of saucepan. Pour at once into a buttered pan, cool

slightly, and mark in squares. Omit vanilla, if desired, and add, while

cooking, one-fourth teaspoon cinnamon.

Maple Sugar Candy

1 lb. soft maple sugar

¾ cup thin cream

¼ cup boiling water

⅔ cup English walnut or pecan meat, cut in pieces

Break sugar in pieces; put into a saucepan with cream and water. Bring

to boiling-point, and boil until a soft ball is formed when tried in

cold water. Remove from fire, beat until creamy, add nut meat, and pour

into a buttered tin. Cool slightly, and mark in squares.

Sultana Caramels

2 cups sugar

½ cup milk

¼ cup molasses

¼ cup butter

2 squares chocolate

1 teaspoon vanilla

½ cup English walnut or hickory nut meat, cut in pieces

2 tablespoons Sultana raisins

Put butter into a saucepan; when melted, add sugar, milk, and molasses.

Heat to boiling-point, and boil seven minutes. Add chocolate, and stir

until chocolate is melted; then boil seven minutes longer. Remove from

fire, beat until creamy, add nuts, raisins, and vanilla, and pour at

once into a buttered tin. Cool slightly, and mark in squares. The nut

meats and raisins may be omitted.

Pralines

1⅞ cups powdered sugar

1 cup maple syrup

½ cup cream

2 cups hickory nut or pecan meat, cut in pieces

Boil first three ingredients until, when tried in cold water, a soft

ball may be formed. Remove from fire, and beat until of a creamy

consistency; add nuts, and drop from tip of spoon in small piles on

buttered paper, or mixture may be poured into a buttered tin and cut in

squares, using a sharp knife.

Creamed Walnuts

White 1 egg

½ tablespoon cold water

¾ teaspoon vanilla

1 lb. confectioners’ sugar

English walnuts

Put egg, water, and vanilla in a bowl, and beat until well blended. Add

sugar gradually until stiff enough to knead. Shape in balls, flatten,

and place halves of walnuts opposite each other on each piece. Sometimes

all the sugar will not be required.

Peppermints

1½ cups sugar

½ cup boiling water

6 drops oil peppermint

Put sugar and water into a granite saucepan and stir until sugar is

dissolved. Boil ten minutes; remove from fire, add peppermint, and beat

until of right consistency. Drop from tip of spoon on slightly buttered

paper.

BOILED SUGAR FOR CONFECTIONS

Eleven tests are considered for boiling sugar:—

Small thread, 215° F.

Large thread, 217°

Pearl, 220°

Large pearl, 222°

The blow, 230°

The feather, 232°

Soft ball, 238°

Hard ball, 248°

Small crack, 290°

Crack, 310°

Caramel, 350°

Fondant, the basis of all French candy, is made of sugar and water

boiled together (with a small quantity of cream of tartar to prevent

sugar from granulating) to soft ball, 238° F. The professional

confectioner is able to decide when syrup has boiled to the right

temperature by sound while boiling, and by testing in cold water; these

tests at first seem somewhat difficult to the amateur, but only a little

experience is necessary to make fondant successfully. A sugar

thermometer is often employed, and proves valuable, as by its use one

need not exercise his judgment.

White Fondant

2½ lbs. sugar

1½ cups hot water

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

Put ingredients into a smooth granite stewpan. Stir, place on range, and

heat gradually to boiling-point. Boil without stirring until, when tried

in cold water, a soft ball may be formed that will just keep in shape,

which is 238° F. After a few minutes’ boiling, sugar will adhere to

sides of kettle; this should be washed off with the hand first dipped in

cold water. Have a pan of cold water near at hand, dip hand in cold

water, then quickly wash off a small part of the sugar with tips of

fingers, and repeat until all sugar adhering to side of saucepan is

removed. If this is quickly done, there is no danger of burning the

fingers. Pour slowly on a slightly oiled marble slab. Let stand a few

minutes to cool, but not long enough to become hard around the edge.

Scrape fondant with chopping knife to one end of marble, and work with a

wooden spatula until white and creamy. It will quickly change from this

consistency, and begin to lump, when it should be kneaded with the hands

until perfectly smooth.

Put into a bowl, cover with oiled paper to exclude air, that a crust may

not form on top, and let stand twenty-four hours. A large oiled platter

and wooden spoon may be used in place of marble slab and spatula. Always

make fondant on a clear day, as a damp, heavy atmosphere has an

unfavorable effect on the boiling of sugar.

Coffee Fondant

2½ lbs. sugar

1½ cups cold water

¼ cup ground coffee

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

Put water and coffee in saucepan, and heat to boiling-point. Strain

through double cheese-cloth; then add sugar and cream of tartar. Boil,

and work same as White Fondant.

Maple Fondant

1¼ lbs. maple sugar

1¼ lbs. sugar

1 cup hot water

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

Break maple sugar in pieces and add to remaining ingredients. Boil, and

work same as White Fondant.

Bonbons

The centres of bonbons are made of fondant shaped in small balls. If

White Fondant is used, flavor as desired,—vanilla being usually

preferred. For cocoanut centres, work as much shredded cocoanut as

possible into a small quantity of fondant; for nut centres, surround

pieces of nut meat with fondant, using just enough to cover. French

candied cherries are often used in this way. Allow balls to stand over

night, and dip the following day.

=To Dip Bonbons.= Put fondant in saucepan, and melt over hot water;

color and flavor as desired. In coloring fondant, dip a small wooden

skewer in coloring paste, take up a small quantity, and dip skewer in

fondant. If care is not taken, the color is apt to be too intense.

During dipping, keep fondant over hot water that it may be kept of right

consistency. For dipping, use a two-tined fork or confectioners’ bonbon

dipper. Drop centres in fondant one at a time, stir until covered,

remove from fondant, put on oiled paper, and bring end of dipper over

the top of bonbon, thus leaving a tail-piece which shows that bonbons

have been hand dipped. Stir fondant between dippings to prevent a crust

from forming.

Cream Mints

Melt fondant over hot water, flavor with a few drops of oil of

peppermint, wintergreen, clove, cinnamon, or orange, and color if

desired. Drop from tip of spoon on oiled paper. Confectioners use rubber

moulds for shaping cream mints; but these are expensive for home use,

unless one is to make mints in large quantities.

Cream Nut Bars

Melt fondant and flavor, stir in any kind of nut meat, cut in pieces.

Turn in an oiled pan, cool, and cut in bars with a sharp knife. Maple

Fondant is delicious with nuts.

Dipped Walnuts

Melt fondant and flavor. Dip halves of walnuts as bonbon centres are

dipped. Halves of pecan or whole blanched almonds may be similarly

dipped.

Tutti-Frutti Candy

Fill an oiled border-mould with three layers of melted fondant. Have

bottom layer maple, well mixed with English walnut meat; the second

layer colored pink, flavored with rose, and mixed with candied cherries

cut in quarters and figs finely chopped; the third layer white, flavored

with vanilla, mixed with nuts, candied cherries cut in quarters, and

candied pineapple cut in small pieces. Cover mould with oiled paper, and

let stand over night. Remove from mould, and place on a plate covered

with a lace paper napkin. Fill centre with Bonbons and Glacé Nuts.

Glacé Nuts

2 cups sugar

1 cup boiling water

⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar

Put ingredients in a smooth saucepan, stir, place on range, and heat to

boiling-point. Boil without stirring until syrup begins to discolor,

which is 310° F. Wash off sugar which adheres to sides of saucepan, as

in making fondant. Remove saucepan from fire, and place in larger pan of

cold water to instantly stop boiling. Remove from cold water and place

in a saucepan of hot water during dipping. Take nuts separately on a

long pin, dip in syrup to cover, remove from syrup, and place on oiled

paper.

Glacé Fruits

For Glacé Fruits, grapes, strawberries, sections of mandarins and

oranges, and candied cherries are most commonly used. Take grapes

separately from clusters, leaving a short stem on each grape. Dip in

syrup made as for Glacé Nuts, holding by stem with pincers. Remove to

oiled paper. Glacé fruits keep but a day, and should only be attempted

in cold and clear weather.

Candied Orange Peel

Remove peel from four thin-skinned oranges in quarters. Cover with cold

water, bring to boiling-point, and cook slowly until soft. Drain, remove

white portion, using a spoon, and cut yellow portion in thin strips,

using scissors. Boil one-half cup water and one cup sugar until syrup

will thread when dropped from tip of spoon. Cook strips in syrup five

minutes, drain, and coat with fine granulated sugar.

Spun Sugar

2 lbs. sugar

2 cups boiling water

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

Put ingredients in a smooth saucepan. Boil without stirring until syrup

begins to discolor, which is 300° F. Wash off sugar which adheres to

sides of saucepan, as in making fondant. Remove saucepan from fire, and

place in a larger pan of cold water to instantly stop boiling. Remove

from cold water, and place in saucepan of hot water. Place two

broomstick-handles over backs of chairs, and spread paper on the floor

under them. When syrup is slightly cooled, put dipper in syrup, remove

from syrup, and shake quickly back and forth over broom-handles.

Carefully take off spun sugar as soon as formed, and shape in nests, or

pile lightly on a cold dish. Syrup may be colored if desired. Spun Sugar

is served around bricks or moulds of frozen creams and ices.

Dippers for spinning sugar are made of coarse wires; about twenty wires,

ten inches long, are put in a bundle, and fastened with wire coiled

round and round to form a handle.

[Illustration:

CREAM MINTS.—_Page 546._

]

[Illustration:

CANDIED ORANGE PEEL.—_Page 547._

]

[Illustration:

BREAD AND BUTTER FOLDS.—_Page 549._

]

[Illustration:

NOISETTE SANDWICHES.—_Page 552._

]

The Boston cooking-school cook book · 第 33 / 39 章