FISH
The meat of fish is the animal food next in importance to that of birds
and mammals. Fish meat, with but few exceptions, is less stimulating and
nourishing than meat of other animals, but is usually easier of
digestion. Salmon, mackerel, and eels are exceptions to these rules, and
should not be eaten by those of weak digestion. White fish, on account
of their easy digestibility, are especially desirable for those of
sedentary habits. Fish is not recommended for brain-workers on account
of the large amount of phosphorus (an element abounding largely in nerve
tissue) which it contains, but because of its easy digestibility. It is
a conceded fact that many fish contain less of this element than meat.
Fish meat is generally considered cheaper than meat of other animals.
This is true when compared with the better cuts of meat, but not so when
compared with cheaper cuts.
To obtain from fish its greatest value and flavor, it should be eaten
fresh, and in season. Turbot, which is improved by keeping, is the only
exception to this rule.
_To Determine Freshness of Fish._ Examine the flesh, and it should be
firm; the eyes and gills, and they should be bright.
Broiling and baking are best methods for cooking fish. White fish may
often be fried, but oily rarely. Frozen fish are undesirable, but if
used, should be thawed in cold water just before cooking.
On account of its strong odor, fish should never be put in an ice-box
with other food, unless closely covered. A tin lard pail will be found
useful for this purpose.
White and Oily Fish
White fish have fat secreted in the liver. Examples: cod, haddock,
trout, flounder, smelt, perch, etc.
Oily fish have fat distributed throughout the flesh. Examples: salmon,
eels, mackerel, bluefish, swordfish, shad, herring, etc.
=Cod= belongs to one of the most prolific fish families (Gadidoe), and
is widely distributed throughout the northern and temperate seas of both
hemispheres. On account of its abundance, cheapness, and easy
procurability, it forms, from an economical standpoint, one of the most
important fish foods. Cod have been caught weighing over a hundred
pounds, but average market cod weigh from six to ten pounds; a six-pound
cod measures about twenty-three inches in length. Large cod are cut into
steaks. The skin of cod is white, heavily mottled with gray, with a
white line running the entire length of fish on either side. Cod is
caught in shallow or deep waters. Shallow-water cod (caught off rocks)
is called rock cod; deep-water cod is called off-shore cod. Rock cod are
apt to be wormy. Cod obtained off George’s Banks, Newfoundland, are
called George’s cod, and are commercially known as the best fish.
Quantities of cod are preserved by drying and salting. Salted George’s
cod is the best brand on the market. Cod is in season throughout the
year.
_Cod Liver Oil_ is obtained from cods’ livers, and has great therapeutic
value. Isinglass, made from swimming bladder of cod, nearly equals in
quality that made from bladder of sturgeon.
=Haddock= is more closely allied to cod than any other fish.
It is smaller (its average weight being about four pounds), and
differently mottled. The distinguishing mark of the haddock is a black
line running the entire length of fish on either side. Haddock is found
in the same water and in company with cod, but not so abundantly. Like
cod, haddock is cheap, and in season throughout the year. Haddock, when
dried, smoked, and salted, is known as _Finnan Haddie_.
=Halibut= is the largest of the flatfish family (Pleuronectidæ),
specimens having been caught weighing from three to four hundred pounds.
Small, or chicken, halibut is the kind usually found in market, and
weighs from fifteen to twenty-five pounds. Halibut are distinctively
cold-water fish, being caught in water at from 32° to 45° F. They are
found in the North Atlantic and North Pacific oceans, where they are
nearly identical. The halibut has a compressed body, the skin on one
side being white, on the other light, or dark gray, and both eyes are
found on the dark side of head. Halibut is in season throughout the
year.
=Turbot= (called little halibut) is a species of the flatfish family,
being smaller than halibut, and of more delicate flavor. Turbot are in
season from January to March.
=Flounder= is a small flatfish, which closely resembles the sole which
is caught in English waters, and is often served under that name.
=Trout= are generally fresh water fish, varying much in size and
skin-coloring. Lake trout, which are the largest, reach their greatest
perfection in Lakes Huron, Michigan, and Superior, but are found in many
lakes. Salmon trout is the name applied to trout caught in New York
lakes. Brook trout, caught in brooks and small lakes, are superior
eating. Trout are in season from April to August, but a few are found
later.
=Whitefish= is the finest fish found in the Great Lakes.
=Smelts= are small salt-water fish, and are usually caught in temperate
waters at the mouths of rivers. New Brunswick and Maine send large
quantities of smelts to market. Selected smelts are the largest in size,
and command higher price. The Massachusetts Fish and Game Protective Law
forbids their sale from March 15th to June 1st. Smelts are always sold
by the pound.
=Bluefish= belongs to the Pomatomidæ family. It is widely distributed in
temperate waters, taking different names in different localities. In New
England and the Middle States it is generally called Bluefish, although
in some parts called Snappers, or Snapping Mackerel. In the Southern
States it is called Greenfish. It is in season in our markets from May
to October; as it is frozen and kept in cold storage from six to nine
months, it may be obtained throughout the year. The heavier the fish,
the better its quality. Bluefish weigh from one to eight pounds, and are
from fourteen to twenty-nine inches in length.
=Mackerel= is one of the best-known food fishes, and is caught in North
Atlantic waters. Its skin is lustrous dark blue above, with wavy
blackish lines, and silvery below. It sometimes attains a length of
eighteen inches, but is usually less. Mackerel weigh from three-fourths
of a pound to two pounds, and are sold by the piece. They are in season
from May 1st to September 1st. Mackerel, when first in market, contain
less fat than later in the season, therefore are easier of digestion.
The supply of mackerel varies greatly from year to year, and some years
is very small. _Spanish mackerel_ are found in waters farther south than
common mackerel, and in our markets command higher price.
=Salmon= live in both fresh and salt waters, always going, inland,
usually to the head of rivers, during the spawning season. The young
after a time seek salt water, but generally return to fresh water.
Penobscot River Salmon are the best, and come from Maine and St. John,
New Brunswick. The average weight of salmon is from fifteen to
twenty-five pounds, and the flesh is of pinkish orange color. Salmon are
in season from May to September, but frozen salmon may be obtained the
greater part of the year. In the Columbia River and its tributaries
salmon are so abundant that extensive canneries are built along the
banks.
=Shad=, like salmon, are found in both salt and fresh water, always
ascending rivers for spawning. Shad is caught on the Atlantic Coast of
the United States, and its capture constitutes one of the most important
fisheries. Shad have a silvery hue, which becomes bluish on the back;
they vary in length from eighteen to twenty-eight inches, and are always
sold by the piece, price being irrespective of size. _Jack shad_ are
usually cheaper than _roe shad_. The roe of shad is highly esteemed.
Shad are in season from January to June. First shad in market come from
Florida, and retail from one and one-half to two dollars each. The
finest come from New Brunswick, and appear in market about the first of
May.
_Caviare_ is the salted roe of the sturgeon.
=Herring= are usually smoked, or smoked and salted, and, being very
cheap, are a most economical food.
SHELLFISH
I. Bivalve Mollusks
=Oysters= are mollusks, having two shells. The shells are on the right
and left side of the oyster, and are called right and left valves. The
one upon which the oyster rests grows faster, becomes deeper, and is
known as the left valve. The valves are fastened by a ligament, which,
on account of its elasticity, admits of opening and closing of the
shells. The oyster contains a tough muscle, by which it is attached to
the shell; the body is made up largely of the liver (which contains
_glycogen_, animal starch), and is partially surrounded by fluted
layers, which are the gills. Natural oyster beds (or banks) are found in
shallow salt water having stony bottom, along the entire Atlantic Coast.
The oyster industry of the world is chiefly in the United States and
France, and on account of its increase many artificial beds have been
prepared for oyster culture. Oysters are five years old before suitable
for eating. Blue Points, which are small, plump oysters, take their name
from Blue Point, Long Island, from which place they originally came.
Their popularity grew so rapidly that the supply became inadequate for
the demand, and any small, plump oysters were soon sold for Blue Points.
During the oyster season they form the first course of a dinner, served
raw on the half shell. In our markets, selected oysters (which are
extremely large and used for broiling) Providence River, and Norfolk
oysters are familiarly known, and, taken out of the shells, are sold by
the quart. Farther south, they are sold by count.
Oysters are obtainable all the year, but are in season from September to
May. During the summer mouths they are flabby and of poor flavor,
although when fresh they are perfectly wholesome. _Mussels_, eaten in
England and other parts of Europe, are similar to oysters, though of
inferior quality. Oysters are nutritious and of easy digestibility,
especially when eaten raw.
_To Open Oysters._ Put a thin flat knife under the back end of the right
valve, and push forward until it cuts the strong muscle which holds the
shells together. As soon as this is done, the right valve may be raised
and separated from the left.
_To Clean Oysters._ Put oysters in a strainer placed over a bowl. Pour
over oysters cold water, allowing one-half cup water to each quart
oysters. Carefully pick over oysters, taking each one separately in the
fingers, to remove any particles of shell which adhere to tough muscle.
=Clams=, among bivalve mollusks, rank in value next to oysters. They are
found just below the surface of sand and mud, above low-water mark, and
are easily dug with shovel or rake. Clams have hard or soft shells.
Soft-shell clams are dear to the New Englander. From New York to Florida
are found hard-shelled clams (quahaugs). _Small quahaugs_ are called
_Little Neck Clams_ and take the place of Blue Points at dinner, when
Blue Points are out of season.
=Scallops= are bivalve mollusks, the best being found in Long Island
Sound and Narragansett Bay. The central muscle forms the edible portion,
and is the only part sent to market. Scallops are in season from October
first to April first.
II. Crustaceans
=Lobsters= belong to the highest order of Crustaceans, live exclusively
in sea-water, generally near rocky coasts, and are caught in pots set on
gravelly bottoms. The largest and best species are found in Atlantic
waters from Maine to New Jersey, being most abundant on Maine and
Massachusetts coasts. Lobsters have been found weighing from sixteen to
twenty-five pounds, but such have been exterminated from our coast. The
average weight is two pounds, and the length from ten to fifteen inches.
Lobsters are largest and most abundant from June to September, but are
obtainable all the year. When taken from the water, shells are of
mottled dark green color, except when found on sandy bottoms, when they
are quite red. Lobsters are generally boiled, causing the shell to turn
red.
A lobster consists of body, tail, two large claws, and four pairs of
small claws. On lower side of body, in front of large claws, are various
small organs which surround the mouth, and a long and short pair of
feelers. Under the tail are found several pairs of appendages. In the
female lobster, also called hen lobster, is found, during the breeding
season, the spawn, known as _coral_. Sex is determined by the pair of
appendages in the tail which lie nearest the body; in the female they
are soft and pliable, in the male hard and stiff. At one time small
lobsters were taken in such quantities that it was feared, if the
practice was long continued, they would be exterminated. To protect the
continuance of lobster fisheries, a law has been passed in many States
prohibiting their sale unless at least ten inches long.
Lobsters shed their shells at irregular intervals, when old ones are
outgrown. The new ones begin to form and take on distinctive
characteristics before the old ones are discarded. New shells after
twenty-four hours’ exposure to the water are quite hard.
Lobsters, being coarse feeders (taking almost any animal substance
attainable), are difficult of digestion, and with some create great
gastric disturbance; notwithstanding, they are seldom found diseased.
_To Select a Lobster._ Take in the hand, and if heavy in proportion to
its size, the lobster is fresh. Straighten the tail, and if it springs
into place the lobster was alive (as it should have been) when put into
the pot for boiling. There is greater shrinkage in lobsters than in any
other fish.
_To Open Lobsters._ Take off large claws, small claws, and separate tail
from body. Tail meat may sometimes be drawn out whole with a fork; more
often it is necessary to cut the thin shell portion (using scissors or a
can opener) in under part of the tail, then the tail meat may always be
removed whole. Separate tail meat through centre, and remove the small
intestinal vein which runs its entire length; although generally darker
than the meat, it is sometimes found of the same color. Hold body shell
firmly in left hand, and with first two fingers and thumb of right hand
draw out the body, leaving in shell the stomach (known as the _lady_),
which is not edible, and also some of the green part, the _liver_. The
liver may be removed by shaking the shell. The sides of the body are
covered with the _lungs_; these are always discarded. Break body through
the middle and separate body bones, picking out meat that lies between
them, which is some of the sweetest and tenderest to be found. Separate
large claws at joints. If shells are thin, with a knife cut off a strip
down the sharp edge, so that shell may be broken apart and meat removed
whole. Where shell is thick, it must be broken with a mallet or hammer.
Small claws are used for garnishing. The shell of body, tail, and lower
part of large claws, if not broken, may be washed, dried, and used for
serving of lobster meat after it has been prepared. The portions of
lobsters which are not edible are _lungs_, _stomach_ (lady), and
_intestinal vein_.
=Crabs= among Crustaceans are next in importance to lobsters,
commercially speaking. They are about two and one-half inches long by
five inches wide, and are found along the Atlantic Coast from
Massachusetts to Florida, and in the Gulf of Mexico. Crabs, like
lobsters, change their shells. _Soft-shell_ crabs are those which have
recently shed their old shells, and the new shells have not had time to
harden; these are considered by many a great luxury. _Oyster crabs_
(very small crabs found in shells with oysters) are a delicacy not often
indulged in. Crabs are in season during the spring and summer.
=Shrimps= are found largely in our Southern waters, the largest and best
coming from Lake Pontchartrain. They are about two inches long, covered
with a thin shell, and are boiled and sent to market with heads removed.
Their grayish color is changed to pink by boiling. Shrimps are in season
from May first to October first, and are generally used for salads.
Canned shrimps are much used and favorably known.
_Reptiles._ Frogs and terrapin belong to a lower order of animals than
fish,—reptiles. They are both table delicacies, and are eaten by the
few.
Only the hind legs of frogs are eaten, and have much the same flavor as
chicken.
Terrapin, although sold in our large cities, specially belong to
Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington, where they are cooked and
served at their best. They are shipped from the South, packed in
seaweed, and may be kept for some time in a dark place. Terrapin are
found in both fresh and salt-water. The Diamond Back, salt-water
terrapin, coming from Chesapeake Bay, are considered the best, and
command a very high price. Terrapin closely resembling Diamond Back,
coming from Texas and Florida, are principally sold in our markets.
Terrapin are in season from November to April, but are best in January,
February, and March. They should always be cooked alive.
TO PREPARE FISH FOR COOKING
=To Clean a Fish.= Fish are cleaned and dressed at market as ordered,
but need additional cleaning before cooking. Remove scales which have
not been taken off. This is done by drawing a knife over fish, beginning
at tail and working towards head, occasionally wiping knife and scales
from fish. Incline knife slightly towards you to prevent scales from
flying. The largest number of scales will be found on the flank. Wipe
thoroughly inside and out with cloth wrung out of cold water, removing
any clotted blood which may be found adhering to backbone.
Head and tail may or may not be removed, according to size of fish and
manner of cooking. Small fish are generally served with head and tail
left on.
=To Skin a Fish.= With sharp knife remove fins along the back and cut
off a narrow strip of skin the entire length of back. Loosen skin on one
side from bony part of gills, and being once started, if fish is fresh,
it may be readily drawn off; if flesh is soft do not work too quickly,
as it will be badly torn. By allowing knife to closely follow skin this
may be avoided. After removing skin from one side, turn fish and skin
the other side.
=To Bone a Fish.= Clean and skin before boning. Beginning at the tail,
run a sharp knife under flesh close to backbone, and with knife follow
bone (making as clean a cut as possible) its entire length, thus
accomplishing the removal of one-half the flesh; turn, and remove flesh
from other side. Pick out with fingers any small bones that may remain.
Cod, haddock, halibut, and whitefish are easily and frequently boned;
flounders and smelts occasionally.
=To Fillet Fish.= Clean, skin, and bone. A piece of fish, large or
small, freed from skin and bones, is known as a fillet. Halibut, cut in
three-fourths inch slices, is more often cut in fillets than any kind of
fish, and fillets are frequently rolled. When flounder is cut in fillets
it is served under the name of _fillet of sole_. Sole found in English
waters is much esteemed, and flounder is our nearest approach to it.
WAYS OF COOKING FISH
_To Cook Fish in Boiling Water._ Small cod, haddock, or cusk are cooked
whole in enough boiling water to cover, to which is added salt and lemon
juice or vinegar. Salt gives flavor; lemon juice or vinegar keeps the
flesh white. A long fish-kettle containing a rack on which to place fish
is useful but rather expensive. In place of fish-kettle, if the fish is
not too large to be coiled in it, a frying-basket may be used placed in
any kettle.
Large fish are cut in thick pieces for boiling, containing the number of
pounds required. Examples: salmon and halibut.
Pieces cut from large fish for boiling should be cleaned and tied in a
piece of cheese-cloth to prevent scum being deposited on the fish. If
skin is not removed before serving, scald the dark skin and scrape to
remove coloring; this may be easily accomplished by holding fish on two
forks, and lowering into boiling water the part covered with black skin;
then remove and scrape. Time required for boiling fish depends on extent
of surface exposed to water. Consult Time Table for Boiling, which will
serve as a guide. The fish is cooked when flesh leaves the bone, no
matter how long the time.
[Illustration:
BOILED MACKEREL, GARNISHED WITH POTATO BALLS, CUCUMBER RIBBONS SLICES
OF LEMON CUT IN FANCY SHAPES, AND PARSLEY.—_Page 161._
]
[Illustration:
HOLLENDEN HALIBUT.—_Page 167._
]
[Illustration:
STUFFED HADDOCK READY FOR BAKING.—_Page 164_.
]
[Illustration:
SMELTS PREPARED FOR COOKING.—_Page 173._
]
=To Broil Fish.= Cod, haddock, bluefish, and mackerel are split down the
back and broiled whole, removing head and tail or not, as desired.
Salmon, chicken halibut, and swordfish are cut in inch slices for
broiling. Smelts and other small fish are broiled whole, without
splitting. Clean and wipe fish as dry as possible, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, and place in well-greased wire broiler. Slices of fish
should be turned often while broiling; whole fish should be first
broiled on flesh side, then turned and broiled on skin side just long
enough to make skin brown and crisp.
To remove from broiler, loosen fish on one side, turn and loosen on
other side; otherwise flesh will cling to broiler. Slip from broiler to
hot platter, or place platter over fish and invert platter and broiler
together.
=To Bake Fish.= Clean, and bake on a greased fish-sheet placed in a
dripping-pan. If a fish-sheet is not at hand, place strips of cotton
cloth under fish, by which it may be lifted from pan.
=To Fry Fish.= Clean fish, and wipe as dry as possible. Sprinkle with
salt, dip in flour or crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat.
=To Sauté Fish.= Prepare as for frying, and cook in frying-pan with
small amount of fat; or, if preferred, dip in granulated corn meal. Cod
steak and smelts are often cooked in this way.
TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF THE VARIOUS FISH USED FOR FOOD
Articles Refuse Proteid Fat Mineral Water
matter
Bass, black 54.8 9.3 .8 .5 34.6
Bluefish 55.7 8.3 .5 .5 35.
Butterfish 42.8 10.2 6.3 .6 40.1
Cod, fresh 52.5 8. .2 .6 38.7
Cod, salt, 22.2 .3 23.1 54.4
boneless
Cusk 40.3 10.1 .1 .5 49.
Eels 20.2 14.6 7.2 .8 57.2
Flounder 61.5 5.6 .3 .5 32.1
Haddock 51. 8.2 .2 .6 40.
Halibut, sections 17.7 15.1 4.4 .9 61.9
Herring 42.6 10.9 3.9 .9 41.7
Mackerel 44.6 10. 4.3 .7 40.4
Mackerel, Spanish 34.6 13.7 6.2 1. 44.5
Perch, white 62.5 7.2 1.5 .4 28.4
Pickerel 47.1 9.8 .2 .7 42.2
Pompano 45.5 10.2 4.3 .5 39.5
Red Snapper 46.1 10.6 .6 .7 42.
Salmon 39.2 12.4 8.1 .9 39.4
Shad 50.1 9.2 4.8 .7 35.2
Carbohydrates
Shad, roe 2.6 20.9 3.8 1.5 71.2
Refuse
Sheepshead 66. 6.4 .2 .5 26.9
Smelts 41.9 10. 1. 1. 46.1
Trout 48.1 9.8 1.1 .6 40.4
Turbot 47.7 6.8 7.5 .7 37.3
Whitefish 53.5 10.3 3. .7 32.5
Carbohydrates
Lobsters 61.7 5.9 .7 .8 .2 30.7
Clams, out of 10.6 1.1 2.3 5.2 80.8
shell
Oysters, solid 6.1 1.4 .9 3.3 88.3
Crabs, soft-shell 15.8 1.5 2. .7 80.
_W. O. Atwater, Ph.D._
Boiled Haddock
Clean and boil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Remove to a hot
platter, garnish with slices of “hard-boiled” eggs and parsley, and
serve with Egg Sauce. A thick piece of halibut may be boiled and served
in the same way.
Boiled Salmon
Clean and boil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Place on a hot
platter, remove skin, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley.
Serve with Egg Sauce I or II, or Hollandaise Sauce.
Steamed Halibut, Silesian Sauce
Steam by cooking over boiling water a piece of halibut weighing two
pounds, and serve with Silesian Sauce.
1½ tablespoons vinegar
⅛ teaspoon powdered tarragon
3 peppercorns
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
½ teaspoon finely chopped shallot
Salt and cayenne
Yolks 3 eggs
⅔ cup Brown Stock
¼ cup butter
1 tablespoon flour
½ tablespoon capers
½ tablespoon parsley
Cook first six ingredients until reduced one-half; strain, add yolks of
eggs well beaten, one-half, each, brown stock and butter, and cook over
hot water, stirring constantly until thickened. Then add, gradually,
remaining butter mixed with flour and stock. As soon as mixture
thickens, add capers, parsley finely chopped, and salt and cayenne.
Broiled Scrod
A young cod, split down the back, and backbone removed, except a small
portion near the tail, is called a scrod. Scrod are always broiled,
spread with butter, and sprinkled with salt and pepper. Haddock is also
so dressed.
Broiled Chicken Halibut
Clean and broil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Spread with butter,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and garnish with slices of lemon cut in
fancy shapes and sprinkled with paprika and parsley.
Broiled Swordfish
Clean and broil fish, spread with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
and serve with Cucumber Sauce I, or Horseradish Sauce I.
Broiled Shad Roe
Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put on greased wire broiler, and
broil five minutes on each side. Serve with Maître d’Hôtel Butter.
Mackerel roe are delicious cooked in this way.
Broiled Pompano with Fricassee of Clams
Clean and broil fish as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish (see p. 160).
When nearly cooked, slip from broiler onto a hot platter and brush over
with melted butter. Surround with two borders of mashed potatoes,
one-inch apart, forced through a pastry bag and tube. Arrange ten halves
of clam-shells between potato borders, at equal distances; fill spaces
between shells with potato roses. Place in oven to finish cooking fish
and to brown potatoes. Just before serving, fill clam-shells with
=Fricassee of Clams.= Clean one pint clams, finely chop hard portions
and reserve soft portions. Melt two tablespoons butter, add chopped
clams, two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one-third cup cream.
Strain sauce, add soft part of clams, cook one minute, season with salt
and cayenne, and add yolk of one egg slightly beaten.
Baked Haddock with Stuffing
Clean a four-pound haddock, sprinkle with salt inside and out, stuff,
and sew. Cut five diagonal gashes on each side of backbone and insert
narrow strips of fat salt pork, having gashes on one side come between
gashes on other side. Shape with skewers in form of letter S, and fasten
skewers with small twine. Place on greased fish-sheet in a dripping-pan,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter, dredge
with flour, and place around fish small pieces of fat salt pork. Bake
one hour in hot oven, basting as soon as fat is tried out, and continue
basting every ten minutes. Serve with Drawn Butter, Egg or Hollandaise
Sauce.
Fish Stuffing I
½ cup cracker crumbs
½ cup stale bread crumbs
¼ cup melted butter
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Few drops onion juice
¼ cup hot water
Mix ingredients in order given.
Fish Stuffing II
1 cup cracker crumbs
¼ cup melted butter
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Few drops onion juice
───────┬───────────────────────────────
Parsley│1 teaspoon each, finely chopped
Capers │
Pickles│
───────┴───────────────────────────────
Mix ingredients in order given. This makes a dry, crumbly stuffing.
Baked Bluefish
Clean a four-pound bluefish, stuff, sew, and bake as Baked Halibut with
Stuffing, omitting to cut gashes on sides, as the fish is rich enough
without addition of pork. Baste often with one-third cup butter melted
in two-thirds cup boiling water. Serve with Shrimp Sauce.
Breslin Baked Bluefish
Split and bone a bluefish, place on a well-buttered sheet, and cook
twenty minutes in a hot oven. Cream one-fourth cup butter, add yolks two
eggs, and when well mixed add two tablespoons, each, onion, capers,
pickles, and parsley, finely chopped; two tablespoons lemon juice, one
tablespoon vinegar, one-half teaspoon salt, and one-third teaspoon
paprika. Sprinkle fish with salt, spread with mixture, and continue the
baking until fish is done. Remove to serving dish and garnish with
potato balls, cucumber ribbons, lemon cut in fancy shapes, and parsley.
Bluefish à l’Italienne
Clean a four-pound bluefish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put on
buttered fish-sheet in a dripping-pan. Add three tablespoons white wine,
three tablespoons mushroom liquor, one-half onion finely chopped, eight
mushrooms finely chopped, and enough water to allow sufficient liquor in
pan for basting. Bake forty-five minutes in hot oven, basting five
times. Serve with Sauce à l’Italienne.
Baked Cod with Oyster Stuffing
Clean a four-pound cod, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with
lemon juice, stuff, and sew. Gash, skewer, and bake as Baked Halibut
with Stuffing. Serve with Oyster Sauce.
Oyster Stuffing
1 cup cracker crumbs
¼ cup melted butter
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 cup oysters
Add seasonings and butter to cracker crumbs. Clean oysters, and remove
tough muscles; add soft parts to mixture, with two tablespoons oyster
liquor to moisten.
Baked Haddock with Oyster Stuffing
Remove skin, head, and tail from a four-pound haddock. Bone, leaving in
large bones near head, to keep fillets in shape of the original fish.
Sprinkle with salt, and brush over with lemon juice. Lay one fillet on
greased fish-sheet in a dripping-pan, cover thickly with oysters,
cleaned and dipped in buttered cracker crumbs seasoned with salt and
pepper. Cover oysters with other fillet, brush with egg slightly beaten,
cover with buttered crumbs, and bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven.
Serve with Hollandaise Sauce I. Allow one pint oysters and one cup
cracker crumbs.
Baked Halibut with Tomato Sauce
2 lbs. halibut
2 cups tomatoes
1 cup water
1 slice onion
3 cloves
½ tablespoon sugar
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
¾ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Cook twenty minutes tomatoes, water, onion, cloves, and sugar. Melt
butter, add flour, and stir into hot mixture. Add salt and pepper, cook
ten minutes, and strain. Clean fish, put in baking-pan, pour around half
the sauce, and bake thirty-five minutes, basting often. Remove to hot
platter, pour around remaining sauce, and garnish with parsley.
Baked Halibut with Lobster Sauce
Clean a piece of halibut weighing three pounds. Cut gashes in top, and
insert a narrow strip of fat salt pork in each gash. Place in dripping
pan on fish-sheet, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour.
Cover bottom of pan with water, add sprig of parsley, slice of onion,
two slices carrot cut in pieces, and bit of bay leaf. Bake one hour,
basting with one-fourth cup butter and the liquor in pan. Serve with
Lobster Sauce.
Hollenden Halibut
Arrange six thin slices fat salt pork two and one-half inches square in
a dripping-pan. Cover with one small onion, thinly sliced, and add a bit
of bay leaf. Wipe a two-pound piece of chicken halibut and place over
pork and onion. Mask with three tablespoons butter creamed and mixed
with three tablespoons flour. Cover with three-fourths cup buttered
cracker crumbs and arrange thin strips of fat salt pork over crumbs.
Cover with buttered paper and bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven,
removing paper during the last fifteen minutes of the cooking to brown
crumbs. Remove to hot serving dish and garnish with slices of lemon cut
in fancy shapes sprinkled with finely chopped parsley and paprika.
Baked Mackerel
Split fish, clean, and remove head and tail. Put in buttered
dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dot over with butter
(allowing one tablespoon to a medium-sized fish), and pour over
two-thirds cup milk. Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven.
Planked Shad or Whitefish
Clean and split a three-pound shad. Put skin side down on an oak plank
one inch thick, and a little longer and wider than the fish, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, and brush over with melted butter. Bake
twenty-five minutes in hot oven. Remove from oven, spread with butter,
and garnish with parsley and lemon. The fish should be sent to the table
on plank. Planked Shad is well cooked in a gas range having the flame
over the fish.
The Planked Whitefish of the Great Lakes has gained much favor.
Planked Shad with Creamed Roe
Select a roe shad and prepare same as Planked Shad. Parboil roe in
salted, acidulated water twenty minutes. Remove outside membrane, and
mash. Melt three tablespoons butter, add one teaspoon finely chopped
shallot, and cook five minutes; add roe, sprinkle with one and one-half
tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one-third cup cream. Cook
slowly five minutes, add two egg yolks and season highly with salt,
pepper, and lemon juice. Remove shad from oven, spread thin part with
roe mixture, cover with buttered crumbs, and return to oven to brown
crumbs. Garnish with mashed potatoes forced through a pastry bag and
tube, small tomatoes, slices of lemon and parsley.
Planked Haddock
Skin and bone a haddock, leaving meat in two fillets. Sauté fillets
separately, using a generous quantity of butter and cooking until well
browned on one side. Remove to planks, sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Garnish with mashed potatoes, outlining the original shape of the fish,
making as prominent as possible head, tail, and fins. Bake until
potatoes are well browned, when fish should be thoroughly cooked. Finish
garnishing with parsley and slices of lemon sprinkled with finely
chopped parsley.
Baked Stuffed Smelts
Clean and wipe as dry as possible twelve selected smelts. Stuff,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice. Place in
buttered shallow plate, cover with buttered paper, and bake five minutes
in hot oven. Remove from oven, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake
until crumbs are brown. Serve with Sauce Bearnaise.
=Stuffing.= Cook one tablespoon finely chopped onion with one tablespoon
butter three minutes. Add one-fourth cup finely chopped mushrooms,
one-fourth cup soft part of oysters (parboiled, drained, and chopped),
one-half teaspoon chopped parsley, three tablespoons Thick White Sauce,
and one-half cup Fish Force-meat.
Smelts à la Langtry
Split and bone eight selected smelts. Cut off tails, and from tail ends
of fish turn meat over one inch onto flesh side. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and brush over with lemon juice. Garnish with Fish Force-meat
forced through a pastry bag and tube, and fasten heads with skewers to
keep in an upright position. Arrange in a buttered pan, and pour around
white wine. Cover with buttered paper, and bake from fifteen to twenty
minutes. Just before taking from oven, sprinkle with lobster coral
forced through a strainer. Serve with Aurora Sauce.
=Aurora Sauce.= Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons
flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups cream and one
tablespoon meat extract. Season with salt and cayenne, and add lobster
coral and one-half cup lobster dice.
Baked Shad Roe with Tomato Sauce
Cook shad roe fifteen minutes in boiling salted water to cover, with
one-half tablespoon vinegar; drain, cover with cold water, and let stand
five minutes. Remove from cold water, and place on buttered pan with
three-fourths cup Tomato Sauce I or II. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven,
basting every five minutes. Remove to a platter, and pour around
three-fourths cup Tomato Sauce.
Baked Fillets of Bass or Halibut
Cut bass or halibut into small fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
put into a shallow pan, cover with buttered paper, and bake twelve
minutes in hot oven. Arrange on a rice border, garnish with parsley, and
serve with Hollandaise Sauce II.
Fillets of Halibut with Brown Sauce
Cut a slice of halibut weighing one and one-half pounds in eight short
fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in greased pan, and bake
five minutes; drain, pour over one and one-half cups Brown Sauce I,
cover with one-half cup buttered cracker crumbs, and bake.
Fillets of Haddock, White Wine Sauce
Skin a three and one-half pound haddock, and cut in fillets. Arrange in
buttered baking-pan, pour around fish three tablespoons melted butter,
three-fourths cup white wine to which has been added one-half tablespoon
lemon juice, and two slices onion. Cover and bake. Melt two tablespoons
butter, add two tablespoons flour, and pour on liquor drained from fish;
then add one-half cup Fish Stock (made from head, tail, and bones of
fish), two tablespoons heavy cream, yolks two eggs, salt, and pepper.
Remove fillets to serving dish, pour over sauce strained through
cheese-cloth, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.
Halibut à la Poulette
A slice of halibut, weighing 1½ lbs.
¼ cup melted butter
⅛ teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Few drops onion juice
¼ teaspoon salt
Clean fish and cut in eight fillets. Add seasonings to melted butter,
and put dish containing butter in saucepan of hot water to keep butter
melted. Take up each fillet separately with a fork, dip in butter-roll
and fasten with a small wooden skewer. Put in a shallow pan, dredge with
flour, and bake twelve minutes in hot oven. Remove skewers, arrange on
platter for serving, pour around one and one-half cups Béchamel Sauce,
and garnish with yolks of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed through a
strainer, whites of hard-boiled eggs cut in strips, lemon cut
fan-shaped, and parsley.
Moulded Fish, Normandy Sauce
Remove skin and bones from a thick piece of halibut, finely chop fish,
and force through a sieve (there should be one and one-third cups).
Pound in mortar, adding gradually whites two eggs. Add one and
one-fourth cups heavy cream, and salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste.
Turn into a buttered fish-mould, cover with buttered paper, set in pan
of hot water, and bake until fish is firm. Turn on serving dish and
surround with
[Illustration:
PLANKED HADDOCK.—_Page 168._
]
[Illustration:
FILLETS OF FISH À LA BEMENT.—_Page 171._
]
[Illustration:
OYSTER COCKTAIL I.—_Page 180._
]
[Illustration:
OYSTER COCKTAIL II.—_Page 180._
]
=Normandy Sauce.= Cook skin and bones of fish with three slices carrot,
one slice onion, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, one-fourth teaspoon
peppercorns, and two cups cold water, thirty minutes, and strain; there
should be one cup. Melt two tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons
flour, fish stock, one-third cup heavy cream, and yolks two eggs. Season
with salt, pepper, cayenne, and Sauterne.
Halibut à la Martin
Clean two slices chicken halibut and cut into eight fillets. Season with
salt and brush over with lemon juice. Arrange on a tin plate covered
with cheese-cloth, fold cheese-cloth over fillets, and cook in steamer
fifteen minutes. Remove to serving dish, garnish with small shrimps, and
pour around sauce, following directions for Normandy Sauce, omitting
Sauterne, and seasoning to taste with grated cheese and Madeira.
Fillets of Fish à la Bement
Prepare and cook fish same as for Halibut à la Martin. Insert tip of
small lobster claw in each fillet, and garnish with a thin slice of
canned mushroom sprinkled with parsley and a thin circular slice of
truffle. Serve with
=Lobster Sauce III.= Remove meat from a one and one-half pound lobster
and cut claw meat in cubes. Cover remaining meat and body bones with
cold water. Add one-half small onion, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf,
and one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, and cook until stock is reduced to
one cup. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and
pour on gradually the stock; then add one-half cup heavy cream and yolks
two eggs. Season with salt, lemon juice, and paprika; then add lobster
cubes.
Halibut à la Rarebit
Sprinkle two small slices halibut with salt, pepper, and lemon juice;
then brush over with melted butter, place in dripping-pan on greased
fish-sheet, and bake twelve minutes. Remove to hot platter for serving,
and pour over it a Welsh Rarebit.
Sandwiches of Chicken Halibut
Cut chicken halibut in thin fillets. Put together in pairs, with Fish or
Chicken Force-meat between, first dipping fillets in melted butter
seasoned with salt and pepper and brushing over with lemon juice. Place
in shallow pan with one-fourth cup white wine. Bake twenty minutes in
hot oven. Arrange on hot platter for serving, sprinkle with finely
chopped parsley, garnish with Tomato Jelly, and serve with Hollandaise
Sauce.
Sole à la Bercy
Skin and bone two large flounders, and cut into eight fillets. Put into
a buttered pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, and add
one-fourth cup white wine. Cover and cook fifteen minutes. Remove to
serving dish, pour over Bercy Sauce, and sprinkle with finely chopped
parsley.
=Bercy Sauce.= Fry one tablespoon finely chopped shallot in one
tablespoon butter five minutes; add two tablespoons flour, and pour on
gradually the liquor left in pan with enough White Stock to make one
cup. Add two tablespoons butter, and salt and cayenne to taste.
Halibut au Lit
Wipe two slices chicken halibut, each weighing three-fourths pound. Cut
one piece in eight fillets, sprinkle with salt and lemon juice, roll and
fasten with small wooden skewers. Cook over boiling water. Cut remaining
slice in pieces about the size and shape of scallops. Dip in crumbs,
egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Arrange a steamed fillet in centre
of each fish-plate, place on top of each a cooked mushroom cap, and put
fried fish at both right and left of fillet. Serve with Mushroom Sauce,
and garnish with watercress and radishes cut in fancy shapes.
=Mushroom Sauce.= Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons
flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, one cup Fish
Stock. When boiling-point is reached, add one-half cup cream, three
mushroom caps, sliced, and one tablespoon Sauterne. Season with salt and
pepper. The Fish Stock should be made from skin and bones of halibut.
The mushroom caps on fillets should be cooked in sauce until soft.
Fried Cod Steaks
Clean steaks, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dip in granulated corn
meal. Try out slices of fat salt pork in frying-pan, remove scraps, and
sauté steaks in fat.
Fried Smelts
Clean smelts, leaving on heads and tails. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,
dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, and fry three to four minutes in deep
fat. As soon as smelts are put into fat, remove fat to back of range so
that they may not become too brown before cooked through. Arrange on hot
platter, garnish with parsley, lemon, and fried gelatine. Serve with
Sauce Tartare.
Smelts are fried without being skewered, but often are skewered in
variety of shapes.
_To fry gelatine._ Take up a handful and drop in hot, deep fat; it will
immediately swell and become white; it should at once be removed with a
skimmer, then drained.
Phosphated or granulated gelatine cannot be used for frying.
Smelts à la Menière
Clean six selected smelts, and cut five diagonal gashes on each side.
Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, cover, and let stand ten
minutes. Roll in cream, dip in flour, and sauté in butter. Add to butter
in pan two tablespoons flour, one cup White Stock, one and one-third
teaspoons Anchovy Essence, and a few drops lemon juice. Just before
sauce is poured around smelts, add one and one-half tablespoons butter
and one teaspoon finely chopped parsley.
Fried Fillets of Halibut or Flounder
Clean fish and cut in long or short fillets. If cut in long fillets,
roll, and fasten with small wooden skewers. Sprinkle fillets with salt
and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain
on brown paper. Serve with Sauce Tartare.
Fried Fish, Russian Style, Mushroom Sauce
Cut two slices chicken halibut in fillets, sprinkle fillets with salt
and pepper, pour over one-third cup white wine, cover, and let stand
thirty minutes. Drain, dip each piece separately in heavy cream, then in
flour, and fry in deep fat. Cook skin and bones removed from fish with
five slices carrot, two slices onion, sprig parsley, bit of bay leaf,
one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, and two cups cold water until reduced
to one cup liquid. Make sauce of two tablespoons butter, three
tablespoons flour, the fish stock, and one-third cup heavy cream. Add
yolks two eggs, salt, pepper, cayenne, and white wine to taste.
Arrange fish on serving dish, cover with one-half pound mushroom caps
cleaned, then sautéd in butter, and pour over sauce.
Fried Eels
Clean eels, cut in two-inch pieces, and parboil eight minutes. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper, dip in corn meal, and sauté in pork fat.
Fried Stuffed Smelts
Smelts are stuffed as for Baked Stuffed Smelts, dipped in crumbs, egg,
and crumbs, fried in deep fat, and served with Sauce Tartare.
Fried Shad Roe
Parboil and cook shad roe as for Baked Shad Roe. Cut in pieces, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice. Dip in crumbs,
egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain.
Soft-shell Crabs
Clean crabs, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and
crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Being light, they will rise to top
of fat, and should be turned while frying. Soft-shell crabs are usually
fried. Serve with Sauce Tartare.
=To Clean a Crab.= Lift and fold back the tapering points which are
found on each side of the back shell, and remove spongy substance that
lies under them. Turn crab on its back, and with a pointed knife remove
the small piece at lower part of shell, which terminates in a point;
this is called the apron.
Frogs’ Hind Legs
Trim and clean. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and
crumbs again, then fry three minutes in deep fat, and drain.
Terrapin
To prepare terrapin for cooking, plunge into boiling water and boil five
minutes. Lift out of water with skimmer, and remove skin from feet and
tail by rubbing with a towel. Draw out head with a skewer, and rub off
skin.
=To Cook Terrapin.= Put in a kettle, cover with boiling salted water,
add two slices each of carrot and onion, and a stalk of celery. Cook
until meat is tender, which may be determined by pressing feet-meat
between thumb and finger. The time required will be from thirty-five to
forty minutes. Remove from water, cool, draw out nails from feet, cut
under shell close to upper shell and remove. Empty upper shell and
carefully remove and discard gall-bladder, sandbags, and thick, heavy
part of intestines. Any of the gall-bladder would give a bitter flavor
to the dish. The liver, small intestines, and eggs are used with the
meat.
Terrapin à la Baltimore
1 terrapin
¾ cup White Stock
1½ tablespoons wine
Cayenne
1½ tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
Yolks 2 eggs
To stock and wine add terrapin meat, with bones cut in pieces and
entrails cut in smaller pieces; then cook slowly until liquor is reduced
one-half. Add liver separated in pieces, eggs, butter, salt, pepper, and
cayenne.
Terrapin à la Maryland
Add to Terrapin à la Baltimore one tablespoon each butter and flour
creamed together, one-half cup cream, yolks two eggs slightly beaten,
and one teaspoon lemon juice; then add, just before serving, one
tablespoon Sherry wine. Pour in a deep dish and garnish with toast or
puff paste points.
Washington Terrapin
1 terrapin
1½ tablespoons butter
1½ tablespoons flour
1 cup cream
½ cup chopped mushrooms
Salt
Few grains cayenne
2 eggs
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
Melt the butter, add flour, and pour on slowly the cream. Add terrapin
meat with bones cut in pieces, entrails cut smaller, liver separated in
pieces, eggs of terrapin, and mushrooms. Season with salt and cayenne.
Just before serving, add eggs slightly beaten and two tablespoons Sherry
wine.
WAYS OF USING REMNANTS OF COOKED FISH
Fish à la Crême
1¾ cups cold flaked fish (cod, haddock, halibut, or cusk)
1 cup White Sauce I
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
½ slice onion
Salt and pepper
½ cup buttered cracker crumbs
Scald milk, for the making of White Sauce, with bay leaf, parsley, and
onion. Cover the bottom of small buttered platter with one-half of the
fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour over one-half the sauce;
repeat. Cover with crumbs, and bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown.
Fish à la crême, baked in scallop shells, makes an attractive luncheon
dish, or may be served for a fish course at dinner.
Turban of Fish
2½ cups cold flaked fish (cod, haddock, halibut, or cusk)
1½ cups milk
1 slice onion
Blade of mace
Sprig of parsley
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Lemon juice
Yolks 2 eggs
⅔ cup buttered cracker crumbs
Scald milk with onion, mace, and parsley; remove seasonings. Melt
butter, add flour, salt, pepper, and gradually the milk; then add eggs,
slightly beaten. Put a layer of fish on buttered dish, sprinkle with
salt and pepper, and add a few drops of lemon juice. Cover with sauce,
continuing until fish and sauce are used, shaping in pyramid form. Cover
with crumbs, and bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown.
Fish Hash
Take equal parts of cold flaked fish and cold boiled potatoes finely
chopped. Season with salt and pepper. Try out fat salt pork, remove
scraps, leaving enough fat in pan to moisten fish and potatoes. Put in
fish and potatoes, stir until heated, then cook until well browned
underneath; fold, and turn like an omelet.
Fish Croquettes
To one and one-half cups cold flaked halibut or salmon add one cup thick
White Sauce. Season with salt and pepper, and spread on a plate to cool.
Shape, roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat; drain,
arrange on hot dish for serving, and garnish with parsley. If salmon is
used, add lemon juice and finely chopped parsley.
Fish and Egg Croquettes
Make same as Fish Croquettes, using one cup fish and three “hard-boiled”
eggs finely chopped.
Scalloped Cod
Line a buttered baking-dish with cold flaked cod, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, cover with a layer of oysters (first dipped in melted butter,
seasoned with onion juice, lemon juice, and a few grains of cayenne, and
then in cracker crumbs), add three tablespoons oyster liquor; repeat,
and cover with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven.
Serve with Egg or Hollandaise Sauce I.
Salmon Box
Line a bread pan, slightly buttered, with warm steamed rice. Fill the
centre with cold boiled salmon, flaked, and seasoned with salt, pepper,
and a slight grating of nutmeg. Cover with rice and steam one hour. Turn
on a hot platter for serving, and pour around Egg Sauce II.
WAYS OF COOKING SALT FISH
Creamed Salt Codfish
Pick salt codfish in pieces (there should be three-fourths cup), and
soak in lukewarm water, the time depending upon hardness and saltness of
the fish. Drain, and add one cup White Sauce I. Add one beaten egg just
before sending to table. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs.
Creamed Codfish is better made with cream slightly thickened in place of
White Sauce.
Fish Balls
1 cup salt codfish
2 heaping cups potatoes
1 egg
½ tablespoon butter
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Wash fish in cold water, and pick in very small pieces, or cut, using
scissors. Wash, pare, and soak potatoes, cutting in pieces of uniform
size before measuring. Cook fish and potatoes in boiling water to cover
until potatoes are soft. Drain through strainer, return to kettle in
which they were cooked, mash thoroughly (being sure there are no lumps
left in potato), add butter, egg well beaten, and pepper. Beat with a
fork two minutes. Add salt if necessary. Take up by spoonfuls, put in
frying-basket, and fry one minute in deep fat, allowing six fish balls
for each frying; drain on brown paper. Reheat the fat after each frying.
Salted Codfish Hash
Prepare as for Fish Balls, omitting egg. Try out fat salt pork, remove
scraps, leaving enough fat in pan to moisten fish and potatoes. Put in
fish and potatoes, stir until heated, then cook until well browned
underneath; fold, and turn like an omelet.
Toasted Salt Fish
Pick salt codfish in long thin strips. If very salt, it may need to be
freshened by standing for a short time in lukewarm water. Place on a
greased wire broiler, and broil until brown on one side; turn, and brown
the other. Remove to platter, and spread with butter.
Kippered Herrings
Remove fish from can, and arrange on a platter that may be put in the
oven; sprinkle with pepper, brush over with lemon juice and melted
butter, and pour over the liquor left in can. Heat thoroughly, and
garnish with parsley and slices of lemon.
Baked Finnan Haddie
Put fish in dripping-pan, surround with milk and water in equal
proportions, place on back of range, where it will heat slowly. Let
stand twenty-five minutes; pour off liquid, spread with butter, and bake
twenty-five minutes.
Broiled Finnan Haddie
Broil in a greased broiler until brown on both sides. Remove to a pan,
and cover with hot water; let stand ten minutes, drain, and place on a
platter. Spread with butter, and sprinkle with pepper.
Finnan Haddie à la Delmonico
Cut fish in strips (there should be one cup), put in baking-pan, cover
with cold water, place on back of range and allow water to heat to
boiling-point; let stand on range, keeping water below boiling-point for
twenty-five minutes, drain, and rinse thoroughly. Separate fish into
flakes, add one-half cup heavy cream and four “hard-boiled” eggs thinly
sliced. Season with cayenne, add one tablespoon butter, and sprinkle
with finely chopped parsley.
WAYS OF COOKING SHELLFISH
Oysters on the Half Shell
Serve oysters on deep halves of the shells, allowing six to each person.
Arrange on plates of crushed ice, with one-fourth of a lemon in the
centre of each plate.
Raw Oysters
Raw oysters are served on oyster plates, or in a block of ice. Place
block of ice on a folded napkin on platter, and garnish the base with
parsley and quarters of lemon, or ferns and lemon.
=To Block Ice for Oysters.= Use a rectangular piece of clear ice, and
with hot flatirons melt a cavity large enough to hold the oysters. Pour
water from cavity as rapidly as it forms.
Oyster Cocktail I
8 small raw oysters
1 tablespoon tomato catsup
½ tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice
2 drops Tabasco
Salt
1 teaspoon celery, finely chopped
½ teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
Mix ingredients, chill thoroughly, and serve in cocktail glasses, or
cases made from green peppers placed on a bed of crushed ice.
Oyster Cocktail II
6 small raw oysters
Tabasco Sauce
Lemon juice
Salt
Grape fruit
Cut grape fruit in halves crosswise, remove tough portions, and add
oysters seasoned with Tabasco, lemon juice, and salt.
Oyster Cocktail III
Allow seven Blue Point oysters to each person, and season with
three-fourth tablespoon lemon juice, one-half tablespoon tomato catsup,
one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot, three drops Tabasco sauce, few
gratings horseradish root, and salt to taste. Chill thoroughly and serve
in cocktail glasses. Sprinkle with finely chopped celery and garnish
with small pieces of red and green pepper.
Roasted Oysters
Oysters for roasting should be bought in the shell. Wash thoroughly,
scrubbing with a brush. Put in a dripping-pan, and cook in a hot oven
until shells part. Open, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve in the
deep halves of the shells.
Oysters à la Ballard
Arrange oysters on the half shell in a dripping-pan, and bake in a hot
oven until edges curl. Allow six to each serve, pouring over the
following sauce:
Mix three-fourths tablespoon melted butter, three-fourths teaspoon each
lemon juice and Sauterne, few drops Tabasco, one-fourth teaspoon finely
chopped parsley, and salt and paprika to taste. Before putting
ingredients in bowl, rub inside of bowl with a clove of garlic.
Panned Oysters
Clean one pint large oysters. Place in dripping-pan small oblong pieces
of toast, put an oyster on each piece, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
and bake until oysters are plump. Serve with Lemon Butter.
=Lemon Butter.= Cream three tablespoons butter, add one-half teaspoon
salt, one tablespoon lemon juice, and a few grains cayenne.
Fancy Roast
Clean one pint oysters and drain from their liquor. Put in a stewpan and
cook until oysters are plump and edges begin to curl. Shake pan to
prevent oysters from adhering to pan, or stir with a fork. Season with
salt, pepper, and two tablespoons butter, and pour over four small
slices of toast. Garnish with toast points and parsley.
Oyster Fricassee
1 pint oysters
Milk or cream
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
¼ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1 egg
Clean oysters, heat oyster liquor to boiling-point, and strain through
double thickness of cheese-cloth; add oysters to liquor and cook until
plump. Remove oysters with skimmer and add enough cream to liquor to
make a cupful. Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually hot liquid;
add salt, cayenne, parsley, oysters, and egg slightly beaten.
Creamed Oysters
1 pint oysters
1½ cups White Sauce II
⅛ teaspoon celery salt
Clean, and cook oysters until plump and edges begin to curl; drain, and
add to White Sauce seasoned with celery salt. Serve on toast, in timbale
cases, patty shells, or vol-au-vents. One-fourth cup sliced mushrooms
are often added to Creamed Oysters.
Oysters in Brown Sauce
1 pint oysters
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 cup oyster liquor
½ cup milk
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Anchovy essence
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Parboil and drain oysters, reserve liquor, heat, strain, and set aside
for sauce. Brown butter, add flour, and stir until well browned; then
add oyster liquor, milk, seasonings, and oysters. For filling patty
cases or vol-au-vents.
Savory Oysters
1 pint of oysters
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
1 cup oyster liquor
½ cup Brown Stock
1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
Few drops onion juice
Salt
Pepper
Clean oysters, parboil, and drain. Melt butter, add flour, and stir
until well browned. Pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, oyster
liquor and stock. Add seasonings and oysters. Serve on toast, in timbale
cases, patty shells, or vol-au-vents.
Oysters à la Astor
1 pint oysters
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot
1 tablespoon finely cut red pepper
2 tablespoons flour
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
1½ teaspoons vinegar
1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
½ teaspoon beef extract
Salt and paprika
Wash and pick over oysters, parboil, drain, and to liquor add enough
water to make one cup liquid; then strain through cheese-cloth. Cook
butter, shallot, and pepper three minutes, add flour, and pour on
gradually, while stirring constantly, oyster liquor. Add seasonings and
oysters. Remove oysters to small pieces of bread sautéd in butter on one
side. Pour sauce over oysters and garnish with thin slices of cucumber
pickles.
Broiled Oysters
1 pint selected oysters
¼ cup melted butter
⅔ cup seasoned cracker crumbs
Clean oysters and dry between towels. Lift with plated fork by the tough
muscle and dip in butter, then in cracker crumbs which have been
seasoned with salt and pepper. Place in a buttered wire broiler and
broil over a clear fire until juices flow, turning while broiling. Serve
with or without Maître d’Hôtel Butter.
Oyster Toast
Serve Broiled Oysters on small pieces of Milk Toast. Sprinkle with
finely chopped celery.
Oysters and Macaroni
1 pint oysters
¾ cup macaroni broken in 1 inch pieces
Salt and pepper
Flour
½ cup buttered crumbs
¼ cup butter
Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft; drain, and rinse with
cold water. Put a layer in bottom of a buttered pudding-dish, cover with
oysters, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and dot over
with one-half of the butter; repeat, and cover with buttered crumbs.
Bake twenty minutes in hot oven.
Scalloped Oysters
1 pint oysters
4 tablespoons oyster liquor
2 tablespoons milk or cream
½ cup stale bread crumbs
1 cup cracker crumbs
½ cup melted butter
Salt
Pepper
Mix bread and cracker crumbs, and stir in butter. Put a thin layer in
bottom of a buttered shallow baking-dish, cover with oysters, and
sprinkle with salt and pepper; add one-half each oyster liquor and
cream. Repeat, and cover top with remaining crumbs. Bake thirty minutes
in hot oven. Never allow more than two layers of oysters for Scalloped
Oysters; if three layers are used, the middle layer will be underdone,
while others are properly cooked. A sprinkling of mace or grated nutmeg
to each layer is considered by many an improvement. Sherry wine may be
used in place of cream.
Sautéd Oysters
Clean one pint oysters, sprinkle on both sides with salt and pepper.
Take up by the tough muscle with plated fork and dip in cracker crumbs.
Put two tablespoons butter in hot frying-pan, add oysters, brown on one
side, then turn and brown on the other.
Oysters with Bacon
Clean oysters, wrap a thin slice of bacon around each, and fasten with
small wooden skewers. Put in a broiler, place broiler over dripping-pan,
and bake in a hot oven until bacon is crisp and brown, turning broiler
once during the cooking. Drain on brown paper.
Fried Oysters
Clean, and dry between towels, selected oysters. Season with salt and
pepper, dip in flour, egg, and cracker or stale bread crumbs, and fry in
deep fat. Drain on brown paper and serve on a folded napkin. Garnish
with parsley and serve with or without Sauce Tyrolienne.
Fried Oysters in Batter
Clean, and dry between towels, selected oysters. Dip in batter, fry in
deep fat, drain, and serve on a folded napkin; garnish with lemon and
parsley. Oysters may be parboiled, drained, and then fried.
Batter
2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1 cup bread flour
¾ cup milk
Beat eggs until light, add salt and pepper. Add milk slowly to flour,
stir until smooth and well mixed. Combine mixtures.
Fried Oysters. Philadelphia Relish
Follow directions for Fried Oysters. Serve with =Philadelphia Relish=.
2 cups cabbage, finely shredded
2 green peppers, finely chopped
1 teaspoon celery seed
¼ teaspoon mustard seed
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons brown sugar
¼ cup vinegar
Mix ingredients in order given.
Little Neck Clams
Little Neck Clams are served raw on the half shell, in same manner as
raw oysters.
Steamed Clams
Clams for steaming should be bought in the shell and always be alive.
Wash clams thoroughly, scrubbing with a brush, changing the water
several times. Put into a large kettle, allowing one-half cup hot water
to four quarts clams; cover closely, and steam until shells partially
open, care being taken that they are not overdone. Serve with individual
dishes of melted butter. Some prefer a few drops of lemon juice or
vinegar added to the butter. If a small quantity of boiling water is put
into the dishes, the melted butter will float on top and remain hot much
longer.
Roasted Clams
Roasted clams are served at Clam Bakes. Clams are washed in sea-water,
placed on stones which have been previously heated by burning wood on
them, ashes removed, and stones sprinkled with thin layer of seaweed.
Clams are piled on stones, covered with seaweed, and a piece of canvas
thrown over them to retain the steam.
Clams, Union League
Fry one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot in one and one-half
tablespoons butter five minutes; add eighteen clams and one-half cup
white wine. Cook until the shells open. Remove clams from shells and
reduce liquor to one-third cupful. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two
tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually the clam liquor; add one-fourth
cup cream and the clams, season with salt and pepper. Refill
clam-shells, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve on each a square
piece of fried bacon.
Clams à la Grand Union
Clean and dry selected clams, dip in batter, fry in deep fat, and drain
on brown paper. Serve on small slices of cream toast, seasoned with
salt, celery salt, pepper, and cayenne.
=Batter.= Mix and sift one cup bread flour, one-half teaspoon salt, and
a few grains cayenne. Add gradually two-thirds cup milk, and two eggs
well beaten.
Fried Scallops
Clean one quart scallops, turn into a saucepan, and cook until they
begin to shrivel; drain, and dry between towels. Season with salt and
pepper, roll in fine crumbs, dip in egg, again in crumbs, and fry two
minutes in deep fat; then drain on brown paper.
Plain Lobster
Remove lobster meat from shell, arrange on platter, and garnish with
small claws. If two lobsters are opened, stand tail shells (put
together) in centre of platter, and arrange meat around them.
Lobster Cocktail
Allow one-fourth cup lobster meat, cut in pieces, for each cocktail, and
season with two tablespoons, each, tomato catsup and Sherry wine, one
tablespoon lemon juice, six drops Tabasco Sauce, one-eighth teaspoon
finely chopped chives, and salt to taste. Chill thoroughly, and serve in
cocktail glasses.
Fried Lobster
Remove lobster meat from shell. Use tail meat, divided in fourths, and
large pieces of claw meat. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon juice;
dip in crumbs, egg, and again in crumbs; fry in deep fat, drain, and
serve with Sauce Tartare.
[Illustration:
CLAMS UNION LEAGUE.—_Page 185._
]
[Illustration:
OYSTERS À LA BALLARD.—_Page 181._
]
[Illustration:
LOBSTER COCKTAIL.—_Page 186._
]
[Illustration:
FRUIT COCKTAIL.—_Page 569._
]
Buttered Lobster
2 lb. lobster
3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
Lemon juice
Remove lobster meat from shell and chop slightly. Melt butter, add
lobster, and when heated, season and serve garnished with lobster claws.
Scalloped Lobster
2 lb. lobster
1½ cups White Sauce II
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in cubes. Heat in White Sauce and
add seasonings. Refill lobster shells, cover with buttered crumbs, and
bake until crumbs are brown. To prevent lobster shells from curling over
lobster while baking, insert small wooden skewers of sufficient length
to keep shell in its original shape. To assist in preserving color of
shell, brush over with olive oil before putting into oven. Scalloped
lobster may be baked in buttered scallop shells, or in a buttered
baking-dish.
Devilled Lobster
Scalloped lobster highly seasoned is served as Devilled Lobster. Use
larger proportions of same seasonings, with the addition of mustard.
Curried Lobster
Prepare as Scalloped Lobster, adding to flour one-half teaspoon curry
powder when making White Sauce.
Lobster Farci
1 cup chopped lobster meat
Yolks 2 “hard-boiled” eggs
½ tablespoon chopped parsley
1 cup White Sauce I
Slight grating nutmeg
⅓ cup buttered crumbs
Salt
Pepper
To lobster meat add yolks of eggs rubbed to a paste, parsley, sauce, and
seasonings to taste. Fill lobster shells, cover with buttered crumbs,
and bake until crumbs are brown.
Lobster and Oyster Filling
(_For Patties or Vol-au-Vent_)
1 pint oysters
1¼ lb. lobster
1½ cups cold water
1 stalk celery
1 slice onion
Salt
¼ cup butter
⅓ cup flour
¾ cup cream
Worcestershire Sauce
Lemon juice
Paprika
Clean and parboil oysters; drain, and add to liquor body bones and tough
claw meat from lobster, water, celery, and onion. Cook slowly until
stock is reduced to one cup, and strain. Make sauce of butter, flour,
strained stock, and cream. Add oysters and lobster meat cut in strips;
then add seasonings. One-half teaspoon beef extract is an improvement to
this dish.
Fricassee of Lobster and Mushrooms
2 lb. lobster
¼ cup butter
¾ lb. mushrooms
Few drops onion juice
¼ cup flour
1½ cups milk
Salt
Paprika
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in strips. Cook butter with
mushrooms broken in pieces and onion juice three minutes; add flour, and
pour on gradually milk. Add lobster meat, season with salt and paprika,
and, as soon as lobster is heated, add wine. Remove to serving dish, and
garnish with puff paste or toast points and parsley.
Lobster and Oyster Ragout
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
¾ cup oyster liquor
¾ cup cream
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
Few grains cayenne
Few drops onion juice
1 pint oysters parboiled
¾ cup lobster dice
1½ tablespoons Sauterne
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Make a sauce of first eight ingredients. Add oysters, lobster dice,
wine, and parsley.
Stuffed Lobster à la Béchamel
2 lb. lobster
1½ cups milk
Bit of bay leaf
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
½ teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Slight grating nutmeg
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Yolks 2 eggs
½ cup buttered crumbs
Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in dice. Scald milk with bay
leaf, remove bay leaf and make a white sauce of butter, flour, and milk;
add salt, cayenne, nutmeg, parsley, yolks of eggs slightly beaten, and
lemon juice. Add lobster dice, refill shells, cover with buttered
crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. One-half chicken stock and
one-half cream may be used for sauce if a richer dish is desired.
Broiled Live Lobster
Live lobsters may be dressed for broiling at market, or may be done at
home. Clean lobster and place in a buttered wire broiler. Broil eight
minutes on flesh side, turn and broil six minutes on shell side. Serve
with melted butter. Lobsters taste nearly the same when placed in
dripping-pan and baked fifteen minutes in hot oven, and are much easier
cooked.
=To Split a Live Lobster.= Cross large claws and hold firmly with left
hand. With sharp-pointed knife, held in right hand, begin at the mouth
and make a deep incision, and, with a sharp cut, draw the knife quickly
through body and entire length of tail. Open lobster, remove intestinal
vein, liver, and stomach, and crack claw shells with a mallet.
Baked Live Lobster. Devilled Sauce.
Prepare lobster same as for Broiled Live Lobster and place in a
dripping-pan. Cook liver of lobster with one tablespoon butter three
minutes. Season highly with salt, cayenne, and Worcestershire Sauce.
Spread over lobster, and bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. Remove to
platter and serve at once, allowing over one and one-half pound lobster
to each person.
Live Lobster en Brochette
Split a live lobster, remove meat from tail and large claws, cut in
pieces, and arrange on skewers, alternating pieces with small slices of
bacon. Fry in deep fat and drain. Cook liver of lobster with one
tablespoon butter three minutes, season highly with mustard and cayenne,
and serve with lobster.
Lobster à l’Américaine
Split a live lobster and put in a large omelet pan, sprinkle with
one-fourth onion finely chopped and a few grains of cayenne and cook
five minutes. Add one-half cup Tomato Sauce II and cook three minutes;
then add two tablespoons Sherry wine, cover, and cook in oven seven
minutes. To the liver add one tablespoon wine, two tablespoons Tomato
Sauce, and one-half tablespoon melted butter; heat in pan after lobster
has been removed. As soon as sauce is heated, strain, and pour over
lobster.
Lobster à la Muisset
Cut two one and one-half pound live lobsters in pieces for serving and
crack large claws. Cook one tablespoon finely chopped shallot and three
tablespoons chopped carrot in two tablespoons butter ten minutes,
stirring constantly that carrots may not burn. Add two sprigs thyme,
one-half bay leaf, two red peppers from pepper sauce, one teaspoon salt,
one and one-third cups Brown Stock, two-thirds cup stewed and strained
tomatoes, and three tablespoons Sherry wine. Add lobster and cook
fifteen minutes. Remove lobster to serving dish, thicken sauce with
butter and flour cooked together, and add one and one-half tablespoons
brandy. Pour sauce around lobster, and sprinkle all with finely chopped
chives.