CHAPTER IV

BREAD AND BREAD MAKING

Bread is the most important article of food, and history tells of its

use thousands of years before the Christian era. Many processes have

been employed in making and baking; and as a result, from the first flat

cake has come the perfect loaf. The study of bread making is of no

slight importance, and deserves more attention than it receives.

Considering its great value, it seems unnecessary and wrong to find poor

bread on the table; and would that our standard might be raised as high

as that of our friends across the water! Who does not appreciate the

loaf produced by the French baker, who has worked months to learn the

art of bread making?

Bread is made from flour of wheat, or other cereals, by addition of

water, salt, and a ferment. Wheat flour is best adapted for bread

making, as it contains gluten in the right proportion to make the spongy

loaf. But for its slight deficiency in fat, wheat bread is a perfect

food; hence arose the custom of spreading it with butter. It should be

remembered, in speaking of wheat bread as perfect food, that it must be

made of flour rich in gluten. Next to wheat flour ranks rye in

importance for bread making; but it is best used in combination with

wheat, for alone it makes heavy, sticky, moist bread. Corn also needs to

be used in combination with wheat for bread making, for if used alone

the bread will be crumbly.

The miller, in order to produce flour which will make the white loaf (so

sightly to many), in the process of grinding wheat has been forced to

remove the inner bran coats, so rich in mineral matter, and much of the

gluten intimately connected with them.

To understand better the details of bread making, wheat, from which

bread is principally made, should be considered.

A grain of wheat consists of (1) an outer covering or husk, which is

always removed before milling; (2) bran coats, which contain mineral

matter; (3) gluten, the proteid matter and fat; and (4) starch, the

centre and largest part of the grain. Wheat is distinguished as _white_

and _soft_, or _red_ and _hard_. The former is known as _winter wheat_,

having been sown in the fall, and living through the winter; the latter

is known as _spring wheat_, having been sown in the spring. From winter

wheat, pastry flour, sometimes called St. Louis, is made; from spring

wheat, bread flour, also called Haxall. St. Louis flour takes its name

from the old process of grinding; Haxall, from the name of the inventor

of the new process. All flours are now milled by the same process. For

difference in composition of wheat flours, consult table in Chapter VI

on Cereals.

Wheat is milled for converting into flour by processes producing

essentially the same results, all requiring cleansing, grinding, and

bolting. Entire wheat flour has only the outer husk removed, the

remainder of the kernel being finely ground. _Graham flour_, confounded

with entire wheat, is too often found to be an inferior flour, mixed

with coarse bran.

Grinding is accomplished by one of four systems: (1) low milling; (2)

Hungarian system, or high milling; (3) roller-milling; and (4) by a

machine known as disintegrator.

=In low milling process=, grooved stones are employed for grinding. The

stones are enclosed in a metal case, and provision is made within case

for passage of air to prevent wheat from becoming overheated. The lower

stone being permanently fixed, the upper stone being so balanced above

it that grooves may exactly correspond, when upper stone rotates, sharp

edges of grooves meet each other, and operate like a pair of scissors.

By this process flour is made ready for bolting by one grinding.

=In high milling process=, grooved stones are employed, but are kept so

far apart that at first the wheat is only bruised, and a series of

grindings and siftings is necessary. This process is applicable only to

the hardest wheats, and is partially supplanted by roller-milling.

=In roller-milling=, wheat is subjected to action of a pair of steel or

chilled-iron horizontal rollers, having toothed surfaces. They revolve

in opposite directions, at different rates of speed, and have a cutting

action.

Porcelain rollers, with rough surfaces, are sometimes employed. In this

system, grinding is accomplished by cutting rather than crushing.

“The =disintegrator= consists of a pair of circular metal disks, set

face to face, studded with circles of projecting bars so arranged that

circles of bars on one disk alternate with those of the other. The disks

are mounted on the same centre, and so closely set to one another that

projecting bars of one disk come quite close to plane surface of the

other. They are enclosed within an external casing. The disks are caused

to rotate in opposite directions with great rapidity, and the grain is

almost instantaneously reduced to a powder.”

After grinding comes bolting, by which process the different grades of

flour are obtained. The ground wheat is placed in octagonal cylinders

(covered with silk or linen bolting-cloth of different degrees of

fineness), which are allowed to rotate, thus forcing the wheat through.

The flour from first siftings contains the largest percentage of gluten.

Flour is branded under different names to suit manufacturer or dealer.

In consequence, the same wheat, milled by the same process, makes flour

which is sold under different names.

In buying flour, whether bread or pastry, select the best kept by your

grocer. Some of the well-known brands of bread flour are King Arthur,

Swan’s Down, Bridal Veil, Columbia, Washburn’s Extra, and Pillbury’s

Best; of pastry, Best St. Louis. Bread flour should be used in all cases

where yeast is called for, with few exceptions; in other cases, pastry

flour. The difference between bread and pastry flour may be readily

determined. Take bread flour in the hand, close hand tightly, then open,

and flour will not keep in shape; if allowed to pass through fingers it

will feel slightly granular. Take pastry flour in the hand, close hand

tightly, open, and flour will be in shape, having impression of the

lines of the hand, and feeling soft and velvety to touch. Flour should

always be sifted before measuring.

=Entire wheat flour= differs from ordinary flour inasmuch as it contains

all the gluten found in wheat, the outer husk of kernels only being

removed, the remainder ground to different degrees of fineness and left

unbolted. Such flours are sold by the different health food companies,

who have agencies in the large cities. Franklin Mills, Old Grist Mill,

and Health Food flours are included in this class.

=Gluten=, the proteid of wheat, is a gray, tough, elastic substance,

insoluble in water. On account of its great power of expansion, it holds

the gas developed in bread dough by fermentation, which otherwise would

escape.

Yeast

Yeast is a microscopic plant of fungous growth, and is the lowest form

of vegetable life. It consists of spores, or germs, found floating in

air, and belongs to a family of which there are many species. These

spores grow by budding and division, and multiply very rapidly under

favorable conditions, and produce fermentation.

=Fermentation= is the process by which, under influence of air, warmth,

moisture, and some ferment, sugar (or dextrose, starch converted into

sugar) is changed into alcohol (C_{2}H_{5}HO) and carbon dioxide

(CO_{2}). The product of all fermentation is the same. Three kinds are

considered,—alcoholic, acetic, and lactic. Where bread dough is allowed

to ferment by addition of yeast, the fermentation is _alcoholic_; where

alcoholic fermentation continues too long, _acetic_ fermentation sets

in, which is a continuation of alcoholic. _Lactic_ fermentation is

fermentation which takes place when milk sours.

Liquid, dry, or compressed yeast may be used for raising bread. The

compressed yeast cakes done up in tinfoil have long proved satisfactory,

and are now almost universally used, having replaced the home-made

liquid yeast. Never use a yeast cake unless perfectly fresh, which may

be determined by its light color and absence of dark streaks.

The _yeast plant_ is killed at 212° F.; life is suspended, but not

entirely destroyed, 32° F. The temperature best suited for its growth is

from 65° to 68° F. The most favorable conditions for the growth of yeast

are a warm, moist, sweet, nitrogenous soil. These must be especially

considered in bread making.

Bread Making

=Fermented bread= is made by mixing to a dough, flour, with a definite

quantity of water, milk, or water and milk, salt, and a ferment. Sugar

is usually added to hasten fermentation. Dough is then kneaded that the

ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated, covered, and allowed to rise

in a temperature of 68° F., until dough has doubled its bulk. This

change has been caused by action of the ferment, which attacks some of

the starch in flour, and changes it to sugar, and sugar in turn to

alcohol and carbon dioxide, thus lightening the whole mass. Dough is

then kneaded a second time to break bubbles and distribute evenly the

carbon dioxide. It is shaped in loaves, put in greased bread pans (they

being half filled), covered, allowed to rise in temperature same as for

first rising, to double its bulk. If risen too long, it will be full of

large holes; if not risen long enough, it will be heavy and soggy. If

pans containing loaves are put in too hot a place while rising, a heavy

streak will be found near bottom of loaf.

=How to Shape Loaves and Biscuits.= To shape bread dough in loaves,

divide dough in parts, each part large enough for a loaf, knead until

smooth, and if possible avoid seams in under part of loaf. If baked in

brick pan, place two loaves in one pan, brushed between with a little

melted butter. If baked in long shallow pan, when well kneaded, roll

with both hands to lengthen, care being taken that it is smooth and of

uniform thickness. Where long loaves are baked on sheets, shape and roll

loosely in a towel sprinkled with corn meal for last rising.

To shape bread dough in biscuits, pull or cut off as many small pieces

(having them of uniform size) as there are to be biscuits. Flour palms

of hands slightly; take up each piece and shape separately, lifting,

with thumb and first two fingers of right hand, and placing in palm of

left hand, constantly moving dough round and round, while folding

towards the centre; when smooth, turn it over and roll between palms of

hands. Place in greased pans near together, brushed between with a

little melted butter, which will cause biscuits to separate easily after

baking. For finger rolls, shape biscuits and roll with one hand on part

of board where there is no flour, until of desired length, care being

taken to make smooth, of uniform size, and round at ends.

Biscuits may be shaped in a great variety of ways, but they should

always be small. Large biscuits, though equally good, never tempt one by

their daintiness.

Bread is often brushed over with milk before baking, to make a darker

crust.

Where bread is allowed to rise over night, a small piece of yeast cake

must be used; one-fourth yeast cake to one pint liquid is sufficient,

one-third yeast cake to one quart liquid. Bread mixed and baked during

the day requires a larger quantity of yeast; one yeast cake, or

sometimes even more, to one pint of liquid. Bread dough mixed with a

large quantity of yeast should be watched during rising, and cut down as

soon as mixture doubles its bulk. If proper care is taken, the bread

will be found most satisfactory, having neither “yeasty” nor sour taste.

Fermented bread was formerly raised by means of leaven.

Baking of Bread

Bread is baked: (1) To kill ferment, (2) to make soluble the starch, (3)

to drive off alcohol and carbon dioxide, and (4) to form brown crust of

pleasant flavor. Bread should be baked in a hot oven. If the oven be too

hot the crust will brown quickly before the heat has reached the centre,

and prevent further rising; loaf should continue rising for first

fifteen minutes of baking, when it should begin to brown, and continue

browning for the next twenty minutes. The last fifteen minutes it should

finish baking, when the heat may be reduced. When bread is done, it will

not cling to sides of pan, and may be easily removed. Biscuits require

more heat than loaf bread, should continue rising the first five

minutes, and begin to brown in eight minutes. Experience is the best

guide for testing temperature of oven. Various oven thermometers have

been made, but none have proved practical. Bread may be brushed over

with melted butter, three minutes before removal from oven, if a more

tender crust is desired.

Care of Bread after Baking

Remove loaves at once from pans, and place side down on a wire bread or

cake cooler. If a crisp crust is desired, allow bread to cool without

covering; if soft crust, cover with a towel during cooling. When cool,

put in tin box or stone jar, and cover closely.

Never keep bread wrapped in cloth, as the cloth will absorb moisture and

transmit an unpleasant taste to bread. Bread tins or jars should be

washed and scalded twice a week in winter, and every other day in

summer; otherwise bread is apt to mould. As there are so many ways of

using small and stale pieces of bread, care should be taken that none is

wasted.

=Unfermented bread= is raised without a ferment, the carbon dioxide

being produced by the use of soda (alkaline salt) and an acid. Soda,

employed in combination with cream of tartar, for raising mixtures, in

proportion of one-third soda to two-thirds cream of tartar, was formerly

used to a great extent, but has been generally superseded by baking

powder.

=Soda bicarbonate= (NaHCO_{3}) is manufactured from sodium chloride

(NaCl), common salt or cryolite.

=Baking powder= is composed of soda and cream of tartar in definite,

correct proportions, mixed with small quantity of dry material (flour or

corn-starch) to keep action from taking place. If found to contain alum

or ammonia, it is impure. In using baking powder, allow two teaspoons

baking powder to each cup of flour, when eggs are not used; to egg

mixtures allow one and one-half teaspoons baking powder. When a recipe

calls for soda and cream of tartar, in substituting baking powder use

double amount of cream of tartar given.

These rules apply to the various soda and cream of tartar baking powders

on the market. Horsford’s Baking Powder, the only mineral one, requires

one-third less than others.

Soda and cream of tartar, or baking powder mixtures, are made light by

liberation of gas in mixture; the gas in soda is set free by the acid in

cream of tartar; in order to accomplish this, moisture and heat are both

required. As soon as moisture is added to baking powder mixtures, the

gas will begin to escape; hence the necessity of baking as soon as

possible. If baking powder only is used for raising, put mixture to be

cooked in a hot oven.

=Cream of tartar= (HKC_{4}O_{6}H_{4}) is obtained from argols found

adhering to bottom and sides of wine casks, which are ninety per cent

cream of tartar. The argols are ground and dissolved in boiling water,

coloring matter removed by filtering through animal charcoal, and by a

process of recrystallization the cream of tartar of commerce is

obtained.

The acid found in molasses, sour milk, and lemon juice will liberate gas

in soda, but the action is much quicker than when cream of tartar is

used.

Fermented and unfermented breads are raised to be made light and porous,

that they may be easily acted upon by the digestive ferments. Some

mixtures are made light by beating sufficiently to enclose a large

amount of air, and when baked in a hot oven air is forced to expand.

=Aerated bread= is made light by carbon dioxide forced into dough under

pressure. The carbon dioxide is generated from sulphuric acid and lime.

Aerated bread is of close texture, and has a flavor peculiar to itself.

It is a product of the baker’s skill, but has found little favor except

in few localities.

Water Bread

2 cups boiling water

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon lard

1 tablespoon sugar

1½ teaspoons salt

¼ yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

6 cups sifted flour

Put butter, lard, sugar, and salt in bread raiser, or large bowl without

a lip; pour on boiling water; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake

and five cups of flour; then stir until thoroughly mixed, using a knife

or mixing-spoon. Add remaining flour, mix, and turn on a floured board,

leaving a clean bowl; knead until mixture is smooth, elastic to touch,

and bubbles may be seen under the surface. Some practice is required to

knead quickly, but the motion once acquired will never be forgotten.

Return to bowl, cover with a clean cloth kept for the purpose, and board

or tin cover; let rise over night in temperature of 65° F. In morning

cut down: this is accomplished by cutting through and turning over dough

several times with a case knife, and checks fermentation for a short

time; dough may be again raised, and recut down if it is not convenient

to shape into loaves or biscuits after first cutting. When properly

cared for, bread need never sour. Toss on board slightly floured, knead,

shape into loaves or biscuits, place in greased pans, having pans nearly

half full. Cover, let rise again to double its bulk, and bake in hot

oven. (See Baking of Bread and Time Table for Baking.) This recipe will

make a double loaf of bread and pan of biscuit. Cottolene, coto suet, or

beef drippings may be used for shortening, one-third less being

required. Bread shortened with butter has a good flavor, but is not as

white as when lard is used.

Milk and Water Bread

1 cup scalded milk

1 cup boiling water

1 tablespoon lard

1 tablespoon butter

1½ teaspoon salt

1 yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

6 cups sifted flour, or one cup white flour and enough entire wheat

flour to knead

Prepare and bake as Water Bread. When entire wheat flour is used add

three tablespoons molasses. Bread may be mixed, raised, and baked in

five hours, by using one yeast cake. Bread made in this way has proved

most satisfactory. It is usually mixed in the morning, and the cook is

able to watch the dough while rising and keep it at uniform temperature.

It is often desirable to place bowl containing dough in pan of water,

keeping water at uniform temperature of from 95° to 100° F. Cooks who

have not proved themselves satisfactory bread makers are successful when

employing this method.

Entire Wheat Bread

2 cups scalded milk

¼ cup sugar or

⅓ cup molasses

1 teaspoon salt

1 yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

4⅔ cups coarse entire wheat flour

Add sweetening and salt to milk; cool, and when lukewarm add dissolved

yeast cake and flour; beat well, cover, and let rise to double its bulk.

Again beat, and turn into greased bread pans, having pans one-half full;

let rise, and bake. Entire Wheat Bread should not quite double its bulk

during last rising. This mixture may be baked in gem pans.

German Caraway Bread

Follow recipe for Milk and Water Bread (see p. 54), using rye flour in

place of entire wheat flour, and one tablespoon sugar for sweetening.

After first rising while kneading add one-third tablespoon caraway seed.

Shape, let rise again, and bake in a loaf.

Entire Wheat and White Flour Bread

Use same ingredients as for Entire Wheat Bread, with exception of flour.

For flour use three and one-fourth cups entire wheat and two and

three-fourths cups white flour. The dough should be slightly kneaded,

and if handled quickly will not stick to board. Loaves and biscuits

should be shaped with hands instead of pouring into pans, as in Entire

Wheat Bread.

Graham Bread

2½ cups hot liquid (water, or milk and water)

⅓ cup molasses

1½ teaspoons salt

¼ yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

3 cups flour

3 cups Graham flour

Prepare and bake as Entire Wheat Bread. The bran remaining in sieve

after sifting Graham flour should be discarded.

Third Bread

2 cups lukewarm water

1 yeast cake

½ tablespoon salt

½ cup molasses

1 cup rye flour

1 cup granulated corn meal

3 cups flour

Dissolve yeast cake in water, add remaining ingredients, and mix

thoroughly. Let rise, shape, let rise again, and bake as Entire Wheat

Bread.

Rolled Oats Bread

2 cups boiling water

½ cup molasses

½ tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon butter

½ yeast cake dissolved in

½ cup lukewarm water

1 cup Rolled Oats

4½ cups flour

Add boiling water to oats and let stand one hour; add molasses, salt,

butter, dissolved yeast cake, and flour; let rise, beat thoroughly, turn

into buttered bread pans, let rise again, and bake. By using one-half

cup less flour, the dough is better suited for biscuits, but, being

soft, is difficult to handle. To make shaping of biscuits easy, take up

mixture by spoonfuls, drop into plate of flour, and have palms of hands

well covered with flour before attempting to shape.

Rye Biscuit

1 cup boiling water

1 cup rye flakes

2 tablespoons butter

⅓ cup molasses

1½ teaspoons salt

1 yeast cake dissolved in

1 cup lukewarm water

Flour

Make same as Rolled Oats Bread.

Rye Bread

1 cup scalded milk

1 cup boiling water

1 tablespoon lard

1 tablespoon butter

⅓ cup brown sugar

1½ teaspoons salt

¼ yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

3 cups flour

Rye meal

To milk and water add lard, butter, sugar, and salt; when lukewarm, add

dissolved yeast cake and flour, beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise

until light. Add rye meal until dough is stiff enough to knead; knead

thoroughly, let rise, shape in loaves, let rise again, and bake.

Date Bread

Use recipe for Health Food Muffins (see p. 67). After the first rising,

while kneading, add two-thirds cup each of English walnut meats cut in

small pieces, and dates stoned and cut in pieces. Shape in a loaf, let

rise in pan, and bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven. This bread is

well adapted for sandwiches.

Boston Brown Bread

1 cup rye meal

1 cup granulated corn meal

1 cup Graham flour

¾ tablespoon soda

1 teaspoon salt

¾ cup molasses

2 cups sour milk, or 1¾ cups sweet milk or water

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk, stir until well

mixed, turn into a well-buttered mould, and steam three and one-half

hours. The cover should be buttered before being placed on mould, and

then tied down with string; otherwise the bread in rising might force

off cover. Mould should never be filled more than two-thirds full. A

melon mould or one-pound baking-powder boxes make the most

attractive-shaped loaves, but a five-pound lard pail answers the

purpose. For steaming, place mould on a trivet in kettle containing

boiling water, allowing water to come half-way up around mould, cover

closely, and steam, adding, as needed, more boiling water.

New England Brown Bread

1½ cups stale bread

3¼ cups cold water

¾ cup molasses

1½ teaspoons salt

────────────────────┬────────────

Rye meal │1½ cups each

Granulated corn meal│

Graham flour │

────────────────────┴────────────

3 teaspoons soda

Soak bread in two cups of the water over night. In the morning rub

through colander, add molasses, dry ingredients mixed and sifted, and

remaining water. Stir until well mixed, fill buttered one-pound

baking-powder boxes two-thirds full, cover, and steam two hours.

Indian Bread

1½ cups Graham flour

1 cup Indian meal

½ tablespoon soda

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup molasses

1⅔ cups milk

Mix and steam same as Boston Brown Bread.

Steamed Graham Bread

3 cups Arlington meal

1 cup flour

3½ teaspoons soda

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup molasses (scant)

2½ cups sour milk

Mix same as Boston Brown Bread and steam four hours. This bread may

often be eaten when bread containing corn meal could not be digested.

Parker House Rolls

2 cups scalded milk

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

Flour

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast

cake and three cups of flour. Beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise until

light; cut down, and add enough flour to knead (it will take about two

and one-half cups). Let rise again, toss on slightly floured board,

knead, pat, and roll out to one-third inch thickness. Shape with

biscuit-cutter, first dipped in flour. Dip the handle of a case knife in

flour, and with it make a crease through the middle of each piece; brush

over one-half of each piece with melted butter, fold, and press edges

together. Place in greased pan, one inch apart, cover, let rise, and

bake in hot oven twelve to fifteen minutes. As rolls rise they will part

slightly, and if hastened in rising are apt to lose their shape.

[Illustration:

SWEET FRENCH ROLLS.—Page 60.

]

[Illustration:

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS; SALAD ROLLS; CLOVER LEAF BISCUIT; STICKS.—_Page

59._

]

[Illustration:

SWEDISH TEA RING; SWEDISH TEA BRAID.—_Page 64._

]

[Illustration:

COFFEE CAKES (BRIOCHE).—_Page 62._

]

Parker House Rolls may be shaped by cutting or tearing off small pieces

of dough, and shaping round like a biscuit; place in rows on floured

board, cover, and let rise fifteen minutes. With handle of large wooden

spoon, or toy rolling-pin, roll through centre of each biscuit, brush

edge of lower halves with melted butter, fold, press lightly, place in

buttered pan one inch apart, cover, let rise, and bake.

Salad or Dinner Rolls

Use same ingredients as for Parker House Rolls, allowing one-fourth cup

butter. Shape in small biscuits, place in rows on a floured board, cover

with cloth and pan, and let rise until light and well puffed. Flour

handle of wooden spoon and make a deep crease in middle of each biscuit,

take up, and press edges together. Place closely in buttered pan, cover,

let rise, and bake twelve to fifteen minutes in hot oven. From this same

mixture crescents, braids, twists, bow-knots, clover leaves, and other

fancy shapes may be made.

Sticks

1 cup scalded milk

¼ cup butter

1½ tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1 yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

White 1 egg

3¾ cups flour

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast

cake, white of egg well beaten, and flour. Knead, let rise, shape, let

rise again, and start baking in a hot oven, reducing heat, that sticks

may be crisp and dry. To shape sticks, first shape as small biscuits,

roll on board (where there is no flour) with hands until eight inches in

length, keeping of uniform size and rounded ends, which may be done by

bringing fingers close to, but not over, ends of sticks.

Salad Sticks

Follow recipe for Sticks. Let rise, and add salt to dough, allowing two

teaspoons to each cup of dough. Shape in small sticks, let rise again,

sprinkle with salt, and bake in a slow oven. If preferred glazed, brush

over with egg yolk slightly beaten and diluted with one-half tablespoon

cold water.

Swedish Rolls

Use recipe for Salad Rolls. Roll to one-fourth inch thickness, spread

with butter, and sprinkle with two tablespoons sugar mixed with

one-third teaspoon cinnamon, one-third cup stoned raisins finely

chopped, and two tablespoons chopped citron; roll up like jelly roll,

and cut in three-fourths inch pieces. Place pieces in pan close

together, flat side down. Again let rise, and bake in a hot oven. When

rolls are taken from oven, brush over with white of egg slightly beaten,

diluted with one-half tablespoon water; return to oven to dry egg, and

thus glaze top.

Sweet French Rolls

1 cup milk

1 yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

Flour

¼ cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 egg

Yolk one egg

⅛ teaspoon mace

¼ cup melted butter

Scald milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and one and one-half

cups flour; beat well, cover, and let rise until light. Add sugar, salt,

eggs well beaten, mace, and butter, and enough more flour to knead;

knead, let rise again, shape, and bake same as Salad Rolls, or roll in a

long strip to one-fourth inch in thickness, spread with butter, roll up

like jelly roll, and cut in one-inch pieces. Place pieces in pan close

together, flat side down. A few gratings from the rind of a lemon or

one-half teaspoon lemon extract may be substituted in place of mace.

Luncheon Rolls

½ cup scalded milk

2 tablespoons sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

½ yeast cake dissolved in

2 tablespoons lukewarm water

2 tablespoons melted butter

1 egg

Few gratings from rind of lemon

Flour

Add sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and

three-fourths cup flour. Cover and let rise; then add butter, egg well

beaten, grated rind of lemon, and enough flour to knead. Let rise again,

roll to one-half inch thickness, shape with small biscuit-cutter, place

in buttered pan close together, let rise again, and bake.

French Rusks

2 cups scalded milk

¼ cup butter

¼ cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 yeast cake dissolved in Flour

1 egg

Yolks 2 eggs

Whites 2 eggs

¾ teaspoon vanilla

¼ cup lukewarm water

Add butter, sugar, and salt to scalded milk; when lukewarm add dissolved

yeast cake and three cups flour. Cover and let rise; add egg and egg

yolks well beaten, and enough flour to knead. Let rise again, and shape

as Parker House Rolls. Before baking, make three parallel creases on top

of each roll. When nearly done, brush over with whites of eggs beaten

slightly, diluted with one tablespoon cold water and vanilla. Sprinkle

with sugar.

Rusks (Zweiback)

½ cup scalded milk

½ teaspoon salt

2 yeast cakes

¼ cup sugar

¼ cup melted butter

3 eggs

Flour

Dissolve yeast cakes in milk; when lukewarm, add salt and one cup flour;

cover, and let rise until very light; then add sugar, butter, eggs

unbeaten, and flour enough to handle. Shape as finger rolls, and place

close together on a buttered sheet in parallel rows, two inches apart;

let rise again and bake twenty minutes. When cold, cut diagonally in

one-half inch slices, and brown evenly in oven.

German Coffee Bread

1 cup scalded milk

⅓ cup butter, or butter and lard

¼ cup sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1 egg

⅓ yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm milk

½ cup raisins stoned and cut in pieces

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast

cake, egg well beaten, flour to make stiff batter, and raisins; cover,

and let rise over night; in morning spread in buttered dripping-pan

one-half inch thick. Cover and let rise again. Before baking, brush over

with beaten egg, and cover with following mixture: Melt three

tablespoons butter, add one-third cup sugar and one teaspoon cinnamon.

When sugar is partially melted, add three tablespoons flour.

Coffee Cakes (Brioche)

1 cup scalded milk

¼ cup yolks of eggs

½ cup whole eggs

⅔ cup butter

½ cup sugar

2 yeast cakes

½ teaspoon extract lemon or

2 pounded cardamon seeds

4⅔ cups flour

_French Confectioner_

Cool milk; when lukewarm, add yeast cakes, and when they are dissolved

add remaining ingredients, and beat thoroughly with hand ten minutes;

let rise six hours. Keep in ice-box over night; in morning turn on

floured board, roll in long rectangular piece one-fourth inch thick;

spread with softened butter, fold from sides toward centre to make three

layers. Cut off pieces three-fourths inch wide; cover and let rise. Take

each piece separately in hands and twist from ends in opposite

directions, coil and bring ends together at top of cake. Let rise in

pans and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven; cool and brush over

with confectioners’ sugar, moistened with boiling water to spread, and

flavored with vanilla.

Coffee Rolls

2 cups milk

1½ yeast cakes

──────┬──────────────

Butter│½ cup each

Lard │

Sugar │

──────┴──────────────

Flour

1 egg

½ teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon salt

Melted butter

Confectioners’ sugar

Vanilla

Scald milk, when lukewarm add yeast cakes, and as soon as dissolved add

three and one-half cups flour. Beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise;

then add butter, lard, sugar, egg unbeaten, cinnamon, salt, and flour

enough to knead. Knead until well mixed, cover, and let rise. Turn

mixture on a floured cloth. Roll into a long, rectangular piece

one-fourth inch thick. Brush over with melted butter, fold from ends

toward centre to make three layers and cut off pieces three-fourths inch

wide. Cover and let rise. Take each piece separately in hands and twist

from ends in opposite directions, then shape in a coil. Place in

buttered pans, cover, again let rise, and bake in a moderate oven twenty

minutes. Cool slightly, and brush over with confectioners’ sugar

moistened with boiling water and flavored with vanilla.

Swedish Bread

2½ cups scalded milk

1 yeast cake

Flour

½ cup melted butter

⅔ cup sugar

1 egg, well beaten

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon almond extract

Add yeast cake to one-half cup milk which has been allowed to cool until

lukewarm; as soon as dissolved add one-half cup flour, beat thoroughly,

cover, and let rise. When light, add remaining milk and four and

one-half cups flour. Stir until thoroughly mixed, cover, and again let

rise; then add remaining ingredients and one and one-half cups flour.

Toss on a floured cloth and knead, using one-half cup flour, cover, and

again let rise. Shape as Swedish Tea Braid or Tea Ring I or II, and

bake.

=Swedish Tea Braid.= Cut off three pieces of mixture of equal size and

roll, using the hands, in pieces of uniform size; then braid. Put on a

buttered sheet, cover, let rise, brush over with yolk of one egg,

slightly beaten, and diluted with one-half tablespoon cold water, and

sprinkle with finely chopped blanched almonds. Bake in a moderate oven.

=Swedish Tea Ring I.= Shape as tea braid, form in shape of ring, and

proceed as with tea braid, having almonds blanched and cut in slices

crosswise.

=Swedish Tea Ring II.= Take one-third Swedish Bread mixture and shape,

using the hands, in a long roll. Put on an unfloured board and roll,

using a rolling-pin, as thinly as possible. Mixture will adhere to board

but may be easily lifted with a knife. Spread with melted butter,

sprinkle with sugar and chopped blanched almonds or cinnamon. Roll like

a jelly roll, cut a piece from each end and join ends to form ring.

Place on a buttered sheet, and cut with scissors and shape (see

illustration). Let rise, and proceed as with Tea Ring I.

Dutch Apple Cake

1 cup scalded milk

⅓ cup butter

⅓ cup sugar

⅓ teaspoon salt

1 yeast cake

2 eggs

Flour

Melted butter

5 sour apples

¼ cup sugar

½ teaspoon cinnamon

2 tablespoons currants

Mix first four ingredients. When lukewarm add yeast cake, eggs unbeaten,

and flour to make a soft dough. Cover, let rise, beat thoroughly, and

again let rise. Spread in a buttered dripping-pan as thinly as possible

and brush over with melted butter. Pare, cut in eighths, and remove

cores from apples.

Press sharp edges of apples into the dough in parallel rows lengthwise

of pan. Sprinkle with sugar mixed with cinnamon and sprinkle with

currants. Cover, let rise, and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes.

Cut in squares and serve hot or cold with whipped cream sweetened and

flavored.

[Illustration:

SWEDISH TEA RING II BEFORE BAKING.—_Page 64._

]

[Illustration:

SWEDISH TEA RING II.—_Page 64._

]

[Illustration:

RAISED HOMINY MUFFINS.—PAGE 66.

]

[Illustration:

POP-OVERS.—PAGE 76.

]

Buns

1 cup scalded milk

⅓ cup butter

⅓ cup sugar

1 yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup raisins stoned and cut in quarters

1 teaspoon extract lemon

Flour

Add one-half sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast

cake and one and one-half cups flour; cover, and let rise until light;

add butter, remaining sugar, raisins, lemon, and flour to make a dough;

let rise, shape like biscuits, let rise again, and bake. If wanted

glazed, brush over with beaten egg before baking.

Hot Cross Buns

1 cup scalded milk

¼ cup sugar

2 tablespoons butter

½ teaspoon salt

½ yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

¾ teaspoon cinnamon

3 cups flour

1 egg

¼ cup raisins stoned and quartered, or

¼ cup currants

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast

cake, cinnamon, flour, and egg well beaten; when thoroughly mixed, add

raisins, cover, and let rise over night. In morning, shape in forms of

large biscuits, place in pan one inch apart, let rise, brush over with

beaten egg, and bake twenty minutes; cool, and with ornamental frosting

make a cross on top of each bun.

Raised Muffins

1 cup scalded milk

1 cup boiling water

2 tablespoons butter

¼ cup sugar

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ yeast cake

1 egg

4 cups flour

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk and water; when lukewarm, add yeast

cake, and when dissolved, egg well beaten, and flour; beat thoroughly,

cover, and let rise over night. In morning, fill buttered muffin rings

two-thirds full; let rise until rings are full, and bake thirty minutes

in hot oven.

Grilled Muffins

Put buttered muffin rings on a hot greased griddle. Fill one-half full

with raised muffin mixture, and cook slowly until well risen and browned

underneath; turn muffins and rings and brown the other side. This is a

convenient way of cooking muffins when oven is not in condition for

baking.

Raised Hominy Muffins

1 cup warm cooked hominy

¼ cup butter

1 cup scalded milk

3 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

¼ yeast cake

¼ cup lukewarm water

3¼ cups flour

Mix first five ingredients; when lukewarm add yeast cake, dissolved in

lukewarm water and flour. Cover, and let rise over night. In the morning

cut down, fill hot buttered gem pans two-thirds full, let rise one hour,

and bake in a moderate oven. Unless cooked hominy is rather stiff more

flour will be needed.

Raised Rice Muffins

Make same as Raised Hominy Muffins, substituting one cup hot boiled rice

in place of hominy, and adding the whites of two eggs beaten until

stiff.

Raised Oatmeal Muffins

¾ cup scalded milk

¼ cup sugar

½ teaspoon salt

¼ yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm milk

1 cup cold cooked oatmeal

2½ cups flour

Add sugar and salt to scalded milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast

cake. Work oatmeal into flour with tips of fingers, and add to first

mixture; beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise over night. In morning,

fill buttered iron gem pans two-thirds full, let rise on back of range

that pan may gradually heat and mixture rise to fill pan. Bake in

moderate oven twenty-five to thirty minutes.

Health Food Muffins

1 cup warm wheat mush

¼ cup brown sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon butter

¼ yeast cake

¼ cup lukewarm water

Flour

Mix first four ingredients, add yeast cake dissolved in lukewarm water,

and flour to knead. Cover, and let rise over night. In the morning cut

down, fill hot buttered gem pans two-thirds full and bake in a moderate

oven. This mixture, when baked in a loaf, makes a delicious bread.

Squash Biscuits

½ cup squash (steamed and sifted)

¼ cup sugar

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup scalded milk

¼ yeast cake dissolved in

¼ cup lukewarm water

¼ cup butter

2½ cups flour

Add squash, sugar, salt, and butter to milk; when lukewarm, add

dissolved yeast cake and flour; cover, and let rise over night. In

morning shape into biscuits, let rise, and bake.

Imperial Muffins

1 cup scalded milk

¼ cup sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1¾ cups flour

1 cup corn meal

¼ cup butter

⅓ yeast cake dissolved in ¼ cup lukewarm water

Add sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm add dissolved yeast cake, and

one and one-fourth cups flour. Cover, and let rise until light, then add

corn meal, remaining flour, and butter. Let rise over night; in the

morning fill buttered muffin rings two-thirds full; let rise until rings

are full and bake thirty minutes in hot oven.

Dry Toast

Cut stale bread in one-fourth inch slices. Crust may or may not be

removed. Put slices on wire toaster, lock toaster and place over clear

fire to dry, holding some distance from coals; turn and dry other side.

Hold nearer to coals and color a golden brown on each side. Toast, if

piled compactly and allowed to stand, will soon become moist. Toast may

be buttered at table or before sending to table.

Water Toast

Dip slices of dry toast quickly in boiling salted water, allowing

one-half teaspoon salt to one cup boiling water. Spread slices with

butter, and serve at once.

Milk Toast I

1 pint scalded milk

2 tablespoons butter

2½ tablespoons bread flour

½ teaspoon salt

Cold water

6 slices dry toast

Add cold water gradually to flour to make a smooth, thin paste. Add to

milk, stirring constantly until thickened, cover, and cook twenty

minutes; then add salt and butter in small pieces. Dip slices of toast

separately in sauce; when soft, remove to serving dish. Pour remaining

sauce over all.

Milk Toast II

Use ingredients given in Milk Toast I, omitting cold water, and make as

Thin White Sauce. Dip toast in sauce.

Brown Bread Milk Toast

Make same as Milk Toast, using slices of toasted brown bread in place of

white bread. Brown bread is better toasted by first drying slices in

oven.

Cream Toast

Substitute cream for milk, and omit butter in recipe for Milk Toast I or

II.

Tomato Cream Toast

1½ cups stewed and strained tomato

½ cup scalded cream

¼ teaspoon soda

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour

½ teaspoon salt

6 slices toast

Put butter in saucepan; when melted and bubbling, add flour, mixed with

salt, and stir in gradually tomato, to which soda has been added, then

add cream. Dip slices of toast in sauce. Serve as soon as made.

German Toast

3 eggs

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons sugar

1 cup milk

6 slices stale bread

Beat eggs slightly, add salt, sugar, and milk; strain into a shallow

dish. Soak bread in mixture until soft. Cook on a hot, well-greased

griddle; brown on one side, turn and brown other side. Serve for

breakfast or luncheon, or with a sauce for dessert.

Brewis

Break stale bits or slices of brown and white bread in small pieces,

allowing one and one-half cups brown bread to one-half cup white bread.

Butter a hot frying-pan, put in bread, and cover with equal parts milk

and water. Cook until soft; add butter and salt to taste.

Bread for Garnishing

Dry toast is often used for garnishing, cut in various shapes. Always

shape before toasting. Cubes of bread, toast points, and small oblong

pieces are most common. Cubes of stale bread, from which centres are

removed, are fried in deep fat and called croûstades; half-inch cubes,

browned in butter, or fried in deep fat, are called croûtons.

Uses for Stale Bread

All pieces of bread should be saved and utilized. Large pieces are best

for toast. Soft stale bread, from which crust is removed, when crumbed,

is called stale breadcrumbs, or raspings, and is used for puddings,

griddle-cakes, omelets, scalloped dishes, and dipping food to be fried.

Remnants of bread, from which crusts have not been removed, are dried in

oven, rolled, and sifted. These are called dry bread crumbs, and are

useful for crumbing croquettes, cutlets, fish, meat, etc.

The Boston cooking-school cook book · 第 4 / 39 章