------------------------------------------------------------------------
MODERN COOKERY
FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES
BY ELIZA ACTON
_NEW EDITION_
LONDON
LONGMANS, GREEN, READER, AND DYER
1882.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
PREFACE.
-------
It cannot be denied that an improved system of practical domestic
cookery, and a better knowledge of its first principles, are still much
needed in this country; where, from ignorance, or from mismanagement in
their preparation, the daily waste of excellent provisions almost
exceeds belief. This waste is in itself a very serious evil where so
large a portion of the community often procure—as they do in
England—with painful difficulty, and with the heaviest labour, even
sufficient bread to sustain existence; but the amount of _positive
disease_ which is caused amongst us by improper food, or by food
rendered unwholesome by a bad mode of cooking it, seems a greater evil
still. The influence of diet upon health is indeed a subject of far
deeper importance than it would usually appear to be considered, if we
may judge by the profound indifference with which it is commonly
treated. It has occupied, it is true, the earnest attention of many
eminent men of science, several of whom have recently investigated it
with the most patient and laborious research, the results of which they
have made known to the world in their writings, accompanied, in some
instances, by information of the highest value as to the most profitable
and nutritious modes of preparing various kinds of viands. In arranging
the present enlarged edition of this volume for publication, I have
gladly taken advantage of such of their instructions (those of Baron
Liebig especially) as have seemed to me adapted to its character, and
likely to increase its real utility. These, I feel assured, if carefully
followed out, will much assist our progress in culinary art, and
diminish the unnecessary degree of expenditure which has hitherto
attended its operations; for it may safely be averred that good cookery
is the best and truest economy, turning to full account every wholesome
article of food, and converting into palatable meals, what the ignorant
either render uneatable, or throw away in disdain. It is a popular error
to imagine that what is called good cookery is adapted only to the
establishments of the wealthy, and that it is beyond the reach of those
who are not affluent. On the contrary, it matters comparatively little
whether some few dishes, amidst an abundant variety, be prepared in
their perfection or not; but it is of the utmost consequence that the
food which is served at the more simply supplied tables of the middle
classes should all be well and skilfully prepared, particularly as it is
from these classes that the men principally emanate to whose
indefatigable industry, high intelligence, and active genius, we are
mainly indebted for our advancement in science, in art, in literature,
and in general civilisation.
When both the mind and body are exhausted by the toils of the day, heavy
or unsuitable food, so far from recruiting their enfeebled powers,
prostrates their energies more completely, and acts in every way
injuriously upon the system; and it is no exaggeration to add, that many
a valuable life has been shortened by disregard of this fact, or by the
impossibility of obtaining such diet as nature imperatively required. It
may be urged, that I speak of rare and extreme cases; but indeed it is
not so; and the impression produced on me by the discomfort and the
suffering which have fallen under my own observation, has rendered me
extremely anxious to aid in discovering an efficient remedy for them.
With this object always in view, I have zealously endeavoured to
ascertain, and to place clearly before my readers, the most rational and
healthful methods of preparing those simple and essential kinds of
nourishment which form the staple of our common daily fare; and have
occupied myself but little with the elegant superfluities or luxurious
novelties with which I might perhaps more attractively, though not more
usefully, have filled my pages. Should some persons feel disappointed at
the plan I have pursued, and regret the omissions which they may
discover, I would remind them, that the fashionable dishes of the day
may at all times be procured from an able confectioner; and that part of
the space which I might have allotted to them is, I hope and believe,
better occupied by the subjects, homely as they are, to which I have
devoted it—that is to say, to ample directions for dressing vegetables,
and for making what cannot be purchased in this country—unadulterated
bread of the most undeniably wholesome quality; and those refreshing and
finely-flavoured varieties of preserved fruit which are so conducive to
health when judiciously taken, and for which in illness there is often
such a vain and feverish craving when no household stores of them can be
commanded.[1]
Footnote 1:
Many of those made up for sale are absolutely dangerous eating; those
which are not adulterated are generally so oversweetened as to be
distasteful to invalids.
Merely to please the eye by such fanciful and elaborate decorations as
distinguish many modern dinners, or to flatter the palate by the
production of new and enticing dainties, ought not to be the _principal_
aim, at least, of any work on cookery. “Eat,—_to live_” should be the
motto, by the spirit of which all writers upon it should be guided. I
must here obtrude a few words of personal interest to myself. At the
risk of appearing extremely egotistic, I have appended “_Author’s
Receipt_” and “_Author’s Original Receipt_” to many of the contents of
the following pages; but I have done it solely in self-defence, in
consequence of the unscrupulous manner in which large portions of my
volume have been appropriated by contemporary authors, without the
slightest acknowledgment of the source from which they have been
derived. I have allowed this unfairness, and much beside, to pass
entirely unnoticed until now; but I am suffering at present too severe a
penalty for the over-exertion entailed on me by the plan which I adopted
for the work, longer to see with perfect composure strangers coolly
taking the credit and the profits of my toil. The subjoined passage from
the preface of my first edition will explain in what this toil—so
completely at variance with all the previous habits of my life, and,
therefore, so injurious in its effects—consisted; and prevent the
necessity of recapitulating here, in another form, what I have already
stated in it. “Amongst the large number of works on cookery which we
have carefully perused, we have never yet met with one which appeared to
us either quite intended for, or entirely suited to the need of the
totally inexperienced! none, in fact, which contained the first
rudiments of the art, with directions so practical, clear, and simple,
as to be at once understood, and easily followed, by those who had no
previous knowledge of the subject. This deficiency, we have endeavoured
in the present volume to supply, by such thoroughly explicit and minute
instructions as may, we trust, be readily comprehended and carried out
by any class of learners; our receipts, moreover, with a few trifling
exceptions which are scrupulously specified, are confined to such as may
be _perfectly depended on_, from having been proved beneath our own roof
and under our own personal inspection. We have trusted nothing to
others; but having desired sincerely to render the work one of general
usefulness, we have spared neither cost nor labour to make it so, as the
very plan on which it has been written must of itself, we think,
evidently prove. It contains some novel features, calculated, we hope,
not only to facilitate the labours of the kitchen, but to be of service
likewise to those by whom they are directed. The principal of these is
the summary appended to the receipts, of the different ingredients which
they contain, with the exact proportion of each, and the precise time
required to dress the whole. This shows at a glance what articles have
to be prepared beforehand, and the hour at which they must be ready;
while it affords great facility as well, for an estimate of the expense
attending them. The additional space occupied by this closeness of
detail has necessarily prevented the admission of so great a variety of
receipts as the book might otherwise have comprised; but a limited
number, thus completely explained, may perhaps be more acceptable to the
reader than a larger mass of materials vaguely given.
“Our directions for boning poultry, game, &c., are also, we venture to
say, entirely new, no author that is known to us having hitherto
afforded the slightest information on the subject; but while we have
done our utmost to simplify and to render intelligible this, and several
other processes not generally well understood by ordinary cooks, our
first and best attention has been bestowed on those articles of food of
which the consumption is the most general, and which are therefore of
the greatest consequence; and on what are usually termed plain English
dishes. With these we have intermingled many others which we know to be
excellent of their kind, and which now so far belong to our national
cookery, as to be met with commonly at all refined modern tables.”
Since this extract was written, a rather formidable array of works on
the same subject has issued from the press, part of them from the pens
of celebrated professional gastronomers; others are constantly
appearing; yet we make, nevertheless, but slight perceptible progress in
this branch of our domestic economy. Still, in our cottages, as well as
in homes of a better order, goes on the “waste” of which I have already
spoken. It is not, in fact, cookery-books that we need half so much as
cooks really trained to a knowledge of their duties, and suited, by
their acquirements, to families of different grades. At present, those
who thoroughly understand their business are so few in number, that they
can always command wages which place their services beyond the reach of
persons of moderate fortune. Why should not _all_ classes participate in
the benefit to be derived from nourishment calculated to sustain
healthfully the powers of life? And why should the English, as a people,
remain more ignorant than their continental neighbours of so simple a
matter as that of preparing it for themselves? Without adopting blindly
foreign modes in anything merely because they _are_ foreign, surely we
should be wise to learn from other nations, who excel us in aught good
or useful, all that we can which may tend to remedy our own defects; and
the great frugality, combined with almost universal culinary skill, or
culinary knowledge, at the least—which prevails amongst many of them—is
well worthy of our imitation. Suggestions of this nature are not,
however, sufficient for our purpose. Something definite, practical, and
easy of application, must open the way to our general improvement.
Efforts in the right direction are already being made, I am told, by the
establishment of well-conducted schools for the early and efficient
training of our female domestic servants. These will materially assist
our progress; and if experienced cooks will put aside the jealous spirit
of exclusiveness by which they are too often actuated, and will impart
freely the knowledge they have acquired, they also may be infinitely
helpful to us, and have a claim upon our gratitude which ought to afford
them purer satisfaction than the sole possession of any secrets—genuine
or imaginary—connected with their craft.
The limits of a slight preface do not permit me to pursue this or any
other topic at much length, and I must in consequence leave my
deficiencies to be supplied by some of the thoughtful, and, in every
way, more competent writers, who, happily for us, abound at the present
day; and make here my adieu to the reader.
ELIZA ACTON
_London, May, 1855._
------------------------------------------------------------------------
VOCABULARY OF TERMS,
PRINCIPALLY FRENCH, USED IN MODERN COOKERY.
------------------
_Aspic_—fine transparent savoury jelly, in which cold game, poultry,
fish, &c., are moulded; and which serves also to decorate or
garnish them.
_Assiette Volante_—a dish which is handed round the table without ever
being placed upon it. Small _fondus_ in paper cases are often
served thus; and various other preparations, which require to be
eaten very hot.
_Blanquette_—a kind of fricassee.
_Boudin_—a somewhat expensive dish, formed of the French forcemeat
called _quenelles_, composed either of game, poultry, butcher’s
meat, or fish, moulded frequently into the form of a _rouleau_, and
gently poached until it is firm; then sometimes broiled or fried,
but as frequently served plain.
_Bouilli_—boiled beef, or other meat, beef being more generally
understood by the term.
_Bouillie_—a sort of hasty pudding.
_Bouillon_—broth.
_Casserole_—a stewpan; and the name also given to a rice-crust, when
moulded in the form of a pie, then baked and filled with a mince or
_purée_ of game, or with a _blanquette_ of white meat.
_Court Bouillon_—a preparation of vegetables and wine, in which (in
expensive cookery) fish is boiled.
_Consommé_—very strong rich stock or gravy.
_Croustade_—a case or crust formed of bread, in which minces, _purées_
of game, and other preparations are served.
_Crouton_—a sippet of bread.
_Entrée_—a first-course side or corner dish.[2]
Footnote 2:
Neither the roasts nor the removes come under the denomination of
_entrées_; and the same remark applies equally to the _entremets_
in the second course. Large standing dishes at the sides, such as
raised pies, _timbales_, &c., served usually in grand repasts,
are called _flanks_; but in an ordinary service all the
intermediate dishes between the joints and roasts are
distinguished by the name of _entrées_, or _entremets_.
_Entremets_—a second-course side or corner dish.
_Espagnole_, or Spanish sauce—a brown gravy of high savour.
_Farce_—forcemeat.
_Fondu_—a cheese _soufflé_.
_Gâteau_—a cake, also a pudding, as _Gâteau de Riz_; sometimes also a
kind of tart, as _Gâteau de Pithiviers_.
_Hors d’œuvres_—small dishes of anchovies, sardines, and other relishes
of the kind, served in the first course.
_Macaroncini_—a small kind of maccaroni.
_Maigre_—made without meat.
_Matelote_—a rich and expensive stew of fish with wine, generally of
carp, eels, or trout.
_Meringue_—a cake, or icing, made of sugar and whites of egg beaten to
snow.
_Meringué_—covered or iced with a meringue-mixture.
_Nouilles_—a paste made of yolks of egg and flour, then cut small like
vermicelli.
_Purée_—meat, or vegetables, reduced to a smooth pulp, and then mixed
with sufficient liquid to form a thick sauce or soup.
_Quenelles_—French forcemeat, for which see page 163.
_Rissoles_—small fried pastry, either sweet or savoury.
_Sparghetti_—Naples vermicelli.
_Stock_—the unthickened broth or gravy which forms the basis of soups
and sauces.
_Tammy_—a strainer of fine thin woollen canvas.
_Timbale_—a sort of pie made in a mould.
_Tourte_—a delicate kind of tart, baked generally in a shallow tin pan,
or without any: see page 574.
_Vol-au-vent_—for this, see page 357.
_Zita_—Naples maccaroni.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS.
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CHAPTER I.
SOUPS.
Page
Ingredients which may all be 1
used for making Soup of
various kinds
A few directions to the Cook 2
The time required for boiling 4
down Soup or Stock
To thicken Soups 4
To fry Bread to serve with 5
Soup
Sippets _à la Reine_ 5
To make _Nouilles_ (an elegant 5
substitute for Vermicelli)
Vegetable Vermicelli 5
(Vegetables cut very fine
for Soups)
Extract of Beef, or very 6
strong Beef Gravy-Soup
(Baron Liebig’s receipt)
_Bouillon_ (the common Soup of 7
France), cheap and very
wholesome
Clear pale Gravy Soup, or 10
_Consommé_
Another receipt for Gravy Soup 10
Cheap clear Gravy Soup 11
_Glaze_ (Note) 11
Vermicelli Soup (_Potage au 12
Vermicelle_)
Semoulina Soup (_Soupe à la 12
Semoule_)
Macaroni Soup 13
Soup of _Soujee_ 13
_Potage aux Nouilles, or 14
Taillerine_ Soup
Sago Soup 14
Tapioca Soup 14
Rice Soup 14
White Rice Soup 15
Rice-Flour Soup 15
Stock for White-Soup 15
Mutton Stock for Soups 16
Mademoiselle Jenny Lind’s Soup 16
The Lord Mayor’s Soup 17
The Lord Mayor’s Soup 18
(Author’s receipt)
Cocoa-Nut Soup 19
Chestnut Soup 19
Jerusalem Artichoke, or 19
Palestine Soup
Common Carrot Soup 20
A finer Carrot Soup 20
Common Turnip Soup 21
A quickly made Turnip Soup 21
Potato Soup 21
Apple Soup 21
Parsnep Soup 22
Another Parsnep Soup 22
Westerfield White Soup 22
A richer White Soup 23
Mock-Turtle Soup 23
Old-fashioned Mock-Turtle 26
Good Calf’s-Head Soup (_not 27
expensive_)
_Soupe des Galles_ 28
_Potage à la Reine_ (a 29
delicate White Soup)
White Oyster Soup (or Oyster 30
Soup _à la Reine_)
Rabbit Soup _à la Reine_ 31
Brown Rabbit Soup 31
Superlative Hare Soup 32
A less expensive Hare Soup 32
Economical Turkey Soup 33
Pheasant Soup 33
Another Pheasant Soup 34
Partridge Soup 35
Mullagatawny 35
To boil Rice for Mullagatawny, 36
or for Curries
Good Vegetable Mullagatawny 37
Cucumber Soup 38
Spring Soup, and Soup _à la 38
Julienne_
An excellent Green Peas Soup 39
Green Peas Soup without meat 39
A cheap Green Peas Soup 40
Rich Peas Soup 41
Common Peas Soup 41
Peas Soup without meat 42
Ox-tail Soup 43
A cheap and good Stew Soup 43
Soup in haste 43
Veal or Mutton Broth 44
Milk Soup with Vermicelli (or 44
with Rice, Semoulina, Sago,
&c.)
Cheap Rice Soup 44
Carrot Soup Maigre 45
Cheap Fish Soups 46
Buchanan Carrot Soup 46
(excellent)
Observation 47
CHAPTER II.
FISH.
Page
To choose Fish 48
To clean Fish 50
To keep Fish 51
To sweeten tainted Fish 51
The mode of cooking best 51
adapted to different kinds
of Fish
The best mode of boiling Fish 53
Brine for boiling Fish 54
To render boiled Fish firm 54
To know when Fish is 55
sufficiently boiled, or
otherwise cooked
To bake Fish 55
Fat for frying Fish 55
To keep Fish hot for table 56
To boil a Turbot (_and when in 56
season_)
Turbot _à la Crême_ 57
Turbot _au Béchamel_ 57
Mould of cold Turbot with
Shrimp Chatney (refer to
Chapter VI.)
To boil a John Dory (_and when 58
in season_)
Small John Dories baked. Good 58
(Author’s receipt)
To boil a Brill 58
To boil Salmon (_and when in 59
season_)
Salmon _à la Genevese_ 50
Crimped Salmon 60
Salmon _à la St. Marcel_ 60
Baked Salmon over mashed 69
Potatoes
Salmon Pudding, to be served 60
hot or cold (_a Scotch
receipt. Good_)
To boil Cod Fish (_and when in 61
season_)
Slices of Cod Fish Fried 61
Stewed Cod 62
Stewed Cod Fish in brown sauce 62
To boil Salt Fish 62
Salt Fish _à la Maître 63
d’Hôtel_
To boil Cods’ Sounds 63
To fry Cods’ Sounds in batter 63
To fry Soles (_and when in 64
season_)
To boil Soles 64
Fillets of Soles 65
Soles _au Plat_ 66
Baked Soles (_a simple but 66
excellent receipt_)
Soles stewed in cream 67
To fry Whitings (_and when in 67
season_)
Fillets of Whitings 68
To boil Whitings (_French 68
receipt_)
Baked Whitings _à la 68
Française_
To boil Mackerel (_and when in 69
season_)
To bake Mackerel 69
Baked Mackerel or Whitings 70
(_Cinderella’s receipt.
Good_)
Fried Mackerel (_Common French 70
receipt_)
Fillets of Mackerel (_fried or 71
broiled_)
Boiled fillets of Mackerel 71
Mackerel broiled whole (_an 71
excellent receipt_)
Mackerel stewed with Wine 72
(_very good_)
Fillets of Mackerel stewed in 72
Wine (_excellent_)
To boil Haddocks (_and when in 73
season_)
Baked Haddocks 73
To fry Haddocks 73
To dress Finnan Haddocks 74
To boil Gurnards (_with 74
directions for dressing them
in other ways_)
Fresh Herrings. Farleigh 74
receipt (_and when in
season_)
To dress the Sea Bream 75
To boil Plaice or Flounders 75
(_and when in season_)
To fry Plaice or Flounders 75
To roast, bake, or broil Red 76
Mullet (_and when in
season_)
To boil Grey Mullet 76
The Gar Fish (_to bake_) 77
The Sand Launce, or Sand Eel 77
(_mode of dressing_)
To fry Smelts (_and when in 77
season_)
Baked Smelts 78
To dress White Bait. Greenwich 78
receipt (_and when in
season_)
Water Souchy (_Greenwich 78
receipt_)
Shad, Touraine fashion (_also 79
à la mode de Touraine_)
Stewed Trout. Good common 80
receipt (_and when in
season_)
To boil Pike (_and when in 80
season_)
To bake Pike (_common 81
receipt_)
To bake Pike (_superior 81
receipt_)
To stew Carp (_a common 82
country receipt_)
To boil Perch 82
To fry Perch or Tench 83
To fry Eels (_and when in 83
season_)
Boiled Eels (_German receipt_) 83
To dress Eels (_Cornish 84
receipt_)
Red Herrings _à la Dauphin_ 84
Red Herrings (_common English 84
mode_)
Anchovies fried in batter 84
CHAPTER III.
DISHES OF SHELL-FISH.
Page
Oysters, to cleanse and feed 85
(_and when in season_)
To scallop Oysters 86
Scalloped Oysters _à la Reine_ 86
To stew Oysters 86
Oyster Sausages (_a most 87
excellent receipt_)
To boil Lobsters (_and when in 88
season_)
Cold dressed Lobster and Crab 88
Lobsters fricasseed, or _au 89
Béchamel_ (_Entrée_)
Hot Crab or Lobster 89
Potted Lobsters 90
Lobster cutlets (_a superior 91
Entrée_)
Lobster Sausages 91
_Boudinettes_ of Lobsters, 92
Prawns, or Shrimps. _Entrée_
(_Author’s receipt_)
To boil Shrimps or Prawns 93
To dish cold Prawns 93
To shell Shrimps and Prawns 93
quickly and easily
CHAPTER IV.
GRAVIES.
Page
Introductory remarks 94
Jewish smoked Beef (_extremely 95
useful for giving flavour to
Soups and Gravies_)
To heighten the colour and 96
flavour of Gravies
Baron Liebeg’s Beef Gravy 96
(_most excellent for Hashes,
Minces, and other dishes
made of cold meat_)
Shin of Beef Stock for Gravies 97
Rich pale Veal Gravy or 97
_Consommé_
Rich deep coloured Veal Gravy 98
Good Beef or Veal Gravy 99
(_English receipt_)
A rich English brown Gravy 99
Plain Gravy for Venison 100
A rich Gravy for Venison 100
Sweet Sauce, or Gravy for 100
Venison
_Espagnole_, Spanish Sauce (_a 100
highly flavoured Gravy_)
_Espagnole_ with Wine 100
_Jus des Rognons_, or Kidney 101
Gravy
Gravy in haste 101
Cheap Gravy for a Roast Fowl 101
Another cheap Gravy for a Fowl 102
Gravy or Sauce for a Goose 102
Orange Gravy for Wild Fowl 102
Meat Jellies for Pies and 103
Sauces
A cheaper Meat Jelly 103
Glaze 104
_Aspic_, or clear savoury 104
Jelly
CHAPTER V.
SAUCES.
Page
Introductory remarks 105
To thicken Sauces 105
French thickening, or brown 106
_Roux_
White _Roux_, or French 106
thickening
_Sauce Tournée_, or pale 106
thickened Gravy
Béchamel 107
_Béchamel Maigre_ (_a cheap 108
white Sauce_)
Another common _Béchamel_ 108
Rich melted Butter 108
Melted Butter (_a good common 108
receipt_)
French melted Butter 109
Norfolk Sauce, or rich melted 109
Butter without Flour
White melted Butter 109
Burnt or browned Butter 109
Clarified Butter 110
Very good Egg Sauce 110
Sauce of Turkeys’ Eggs Sauce 110
(_excellent_)
Common Egg Sauce 110
Egg Sauce for Calf’s Head 111
English White Sauce 111
Very common White Sauce 111
Dutch Sauce 111
Fricassee Sauce 112
Bread Sauce 112
Bread Sauce with Onion 113
Common Lobster Sauce 113
Good Lobster Sauce 113
Crab Sauce 114
Good Oyster Sauce 114
Common Oyster Sauce 114
Shrimp Sauce 115
Anchovy Sauce 115
Cream Sauce for Fish 114
Sharp _Maître d’Hôtel_ Sauce 116
(_English receipt_)
French _Maître d’Hôtel_, or 116
Steward’s Sauce
_Maître d’Hôtel Sauce Maigre_, 117
or without Gravy
The Lady’s Sauce for Fish 117
Genevese Sauce, or _Sauce 117
Genevoise_
_Sauce Robert_ 118
_Sauce Piquante_ 118
Excellent Horseradish Sauce, 118
to serve hot or cold with
roast Beef
Hot Horseradish Sauce 119
Christopher North’s own Sauce 119
for many Meats
Gooseberry Sauce for Mackerel 120
Common Sorrel Sauce 120
Asparagus Sauce for Lamb 120
Cutlets
Caper Sauce 121
Brown Caper Sauce 121
Caper Sauce for Fish 121
Common Cucumber Sauce 121
Another common Sauce of 122
Cucumbers
White Cucumber Sauce 122
White Mushroom Sauce 122
Another Mushroom Sauce 123
Brown Mushroom Sauce 123
Common Tomata Sauce 123
A finer Tomata Sauce 124
Boiled Apple Sauce 124
Baked Apple Sauce 124
Brown Apple Sauce 125
White Onion Sauce 125
Brown Onion Sauce 125
Another brown Onion Sauce 125
_Soubise_ 126
_Soubise_ (_French receipt_) 126
Mild Ragout of Garlic, or 126
_l’Ail à la Bordelaise_
Mild Eschalot Sauce 127
A fine Sauce, or _Purée_ of 127
Vegetable Marrow
Excellent Turnip, or Artichoke 127
Sauce, for boiled Meat
Olive Sauce 128
Celery Sauce 128
White Chestnut Sauce 129
Brown Chestnut Sauce 129
Parsley-green, for colouring 129
Sauces
To crisp Parsley 130
Fried Parsley 130
Mild Mustard 130
Mustard, the common way 130
French Batter for frying 130
vegetables, and for Apple,
Peach, or Orange fritters
To prepare Bread for frying 131
Fish
Browned Flour for thickening 131
Soups and Gravies
Fried Bread-Crumbs 131
Fried Bread for Garnishing 131
SWEET PUDDING SAUCES, CHAPTER
XXII.
CHAPTER VI.
COLD SAUCES, SALADS, ETC.
Page
Superior Mint Sauce, to serve 132
with Lamb
Common Mint Sauce 132
Strained Mint Sauce 132
Fine Horseradish Sauce, to 133
serve with cold roast,
stewed, or boiled Beef
Cold _Maître d’Hôtel_, or 133
Steward’s Sauce
Cold Dutch or American Sauce, 133
for Salads of dressed
Vegetables, Salt Fish, or
hard Eggs
English Sauce for Salad, cold 134
Meat, or cold Fish
The Poet’s receipt for Salad 135
_Sauce Mayonnaise_, for 135
Salads, cold Meat, Poultry,
Fish, or Vegetables
Red or green _Mayonnaise_ 136
Sauce
Imperial _Mayonnaise_, an 136
elegant Jellied Sauce or
Salad dressing
_Remoulade_ 137
Oxford Brawn Sauce 137
Forced Eggs for garnishing 137
Salads
Anchovy Butter (_excellent_) 138
Lobster Butter 138
Truffled Butter, and Truffles 139
potted in Butter for the
Breakfast or Luncheon table
English Salads 140
French Salad 140
French Salad—Dressing 140
_Des Cerneaux_, or Walnut 141
Salad
Suffolk Salad 141
Yorkshire Ploughman’s Salad 141
An excellent Salad of young 141
Vegetables
Sorrel Salad, to serve with 142
Lamb Cutlets, Veal Cutlets,
or roast Lamb
Lobster Salad 142
An excellent Herring Salad 143
(_Swedish receipt_)
Tartar Sauce (_Sauce à la 143
Tartare_)
Shrimp Chatney (_Mauritian 144
receipt_)
Capsicum Chatney 144
CHAPTER VII.
STORE SAUCES.
Page
Observations 145
Chetney Sauce (_Bengal 146
receipt_)
Fine Mushroom Catsup 146
Mushroom Catsup (_another 148
receipt_)
Double Mushroom Catsup 148
Compound, or Cook’s Catsup 149
Walnut Catsup 149
Another good receipt for 150
Walnut Catsup
Lemon Pickle, or Catsup 150
Pontac Catsup for Fish 150
Bottled Tomatas, or Tomata 151
Catsup
Epicurean Sauce 151
Tarragon Vinegar 151
Green Mint Vinegar 152
Cucumber Vinegar 152
Celery Vinegar 152.
Eschalot, or Garlic Vinegar 152.
Eschalot Wine 153
Horseradish Vinegar 153
Cayenne Vinegar 153
Lemon Brandy for flavouring 153
Sweet Dishes
Dried Mushrooms 153
Mushroom Powder 154
Potato Flour, or Arrow Root 154
(_Fecule de Pommes de
Terre_)
To make Flour of Rice 154
Powder of Savoury Herbs 154
Tartar Mustard 154
Another Tartar Mustard 154
CHAPTER VIII.
FORCEMEATS.
Page
General remarks on Forcemeats 156
Good common Forcemeat for 157
Veal, Turkeys, &c., No. 1
Another good common Forcemeat, 157
No. 2
Superior Suet Forcemeat, No. 3 158
Common Suet Forcemeat, No. 4 158
Oyster Forcemeat, No. 5 159
Finer Oyster Forcemeat, No. 6 159
Mushroom Forcemeat, No. 7 159
Forcemeat for Hare, No. 8 160
Onion and Sage stuffing for 160
Geese, Ducks, &c., No. 9
Mr. Cooke’s Forcemeat for 161
Geese or Ducks, No. 10
Forcemeat Balls for Mock 161
Turtle Soups, No. 11
Egg Balls, No. 12 162
Brain Cakes, No. 13 162
Another receipt for Brain 162
Cakes, No. 14
Chestnut Forcemeat, No. 15 162
An excellent French Forcemeat, 163
No. 16
French Forcemeat, called 163
_Quenelles_, No. 17
Forcemeat for raised and other 164
cold Pies, No. 18
Panada, No. 19 165
CHAPTER IX.
BOILING, ROASTING, ETC.
Page
To boil Meat 167
_Poélée_ 169
_A Blanc_ 169
Roasting 169
Steaming 172
Stewing 173
Broiling 175
Frying 176
Baking, or Oven Cookery 178
Braising 180
Larding 181
Boning 182
To blanch Meat or Vegetables 182
Glazing 182
Toasting 183
Browning with Salamander 183
CHAPTER X.
BEEF.
Page
To choose Beef 184
When in season 184
To roast Sirloin or Ribs of 184
Beef
Roast Rump of Beef 186
To roast part of a Round of 186
Beef
To roast a Fillet of Beef 187
Roast Beef Steak 187
To broil Beef Steaks 187
Beef Steaks _à la Française_ 188
(_Entrée_)
Beef Steaks _à la Française_ 189
(another receipt) (_Entrée_)
Stewed Beef Steak (_Entrée_) 189
Fried Beef Steaks 189
Beef Stewed in its own Gravy 189
(_good and wholesome_)
Beef or Mutton Cake (_very 190
good_) (_Entrée_)
German Stew 190
Welsh Stew 191
A good English Stew 191
To stew Shin of Beef 192
French Beef _à la Mode_ 192
(_common receipt_)
Stewed Sirloin of Beef 193
To stew a Rump of Beef 194
Beef Palates (_Entrée_) 197
Beef Palates (_Neapolitan 195
mode_)
Stewed Ox-tails (_Entrée_) 195
Broiled Ox-tail (_good_) 195
(_Entrée_)
To salt and pickle Beef in 196
various ways
To salt and boil a round of 196
Beef
Hamburgh Pickle for Beef, 197
Hams, and Tongues
Another Pickle for Tongues, 197
Beef, and Hams
Dutch, or Hung Beef 197
Collared Beef 198
Collared Beef (_another 198
receipt_)
A common receipt for Salting 198
Beef
Spiced Round of Beef (_very 199
highly flavoured_)
Spiced Beef (_good and 199
wholesome_)
A miniature Round of Beef 199
Beef Roll, or _Canellon de 201
Bœuf_ (_Entrée_)
Minced Collops _au Naturel_ 201
(_Entrée_)
Savoury minced Collops 201
(_Entrée_)
A richer variety of minced 202
Collops (_Entrée_)
Scotch minced Collops 202
Beef Tongues 202
Beef Tongues (_a Suffolk 203
receipt_)
To dress Beef Tongues 203
Bordyke receipt for stewing a 203
Tongue
To roast a Beef Heart 204
Beef Kidney 204
Beef Kidney, a plainer way 205
An excellent hash of cold Beef 205
or Mutton
A common hash of cold Beef or 205
Mutton
Breslaw of Beef (_good_) 206
Norman Hash 206
French receipt for hashed 206
Bouilli
Baked minced Beef 207
Saunders 207
To boil Marrow-bones 207
Baked Marrow-bones 208
Clarified Marrow for keeping 208
Ox-cheek stuffed and baked 208
CHAPTER XI.
VEAL.
Page
Different joints of Veal 209
When in season 209
To take the hair from a Calf’s 210
Head with the skin on
Boiled Calf’s Head 210
Calf’s Head, the Warder’s way 211
(_an excellent receipt_)
Prepared Calf’s Head (_the 211
Cook’s receipt_)
Burlington Whimsey 212
Cutlets of Calf’s Head 213
(_Entrée_)
Hashed Calf’s Head (_Entrée_) 213
Cheap hash of Calf’s Head 213
To dress cold Calf’s Head, or 214
Veal, _à la maître d’hôtel_
(_English receipt_).
(_Entrée_)
Calf’s Head Brawn (_Author’s 215
receipt_)
To roast a Fillet of Veal 216
Fillet of Veal, _au Béchamel_, 216
with Oysters
Boiled Fillet of Veal 217
Roast Loin of Veal 217
Boiled Loin of Veal 218
Stewed Loin of Veal 218
Boiled Breast of Veal 218
To roast a Breast of Veal 219
To bone a Shoulder of Veal, 219
Mutton, or Lamb
Stewed Shoulder of Veal 219
(_English receipt_)
Roast Neck of Veal 220
Neck of Veal _à la Créme_, or 220
_au Béchamel_
Veal Goose (_City of London 220
receipt_)
Knuckle of Veal, _en ragout_ 221
Boiled Knuckle of Veal 221
Knuckle of Veal, with Rice or 221
Green Peas
Small _Pain de Veau_, or Veal 222
Cake (_Entrée_)
Bordyke Veal Cake (_good._) 222
(_Entrée_)
Fricandeau of Veal (_Entrée_) 223
Spring stew of Veal (_Entrée_) 224
Norman Harrico 224
Plain Veal Cutlets (_Entrée_) 225
Veal Cutlets _à l’Indienne_, 225
or Indian fashion (_Entrée_)
Veal Cutlets, or Collops, _à 226
la Française_ (_Entrée_)
Scotch Collops (_Entrée_) 226
Veal Cutlets, _à la mode de 226
Londres_, or London fashion
(_Entrée_)
Sweetbreads, simply stewed, 227
fricasseed, or glazed
(_Entrées_)
Sweetbread Cutlets (_Entrée_) 227
Stewed Calf’s Feet (_cheap and 228
good_)
Calf’s Liver stoved or stewed 228
To roast Calf’s Liver 229
Blanquette of Veal, or Lamb, 229
with Mushrooms (_Entrée_)
Minced Veal (_Entrée_) 230
Minced Veal with Oysters 231
(_Entrée_)
Veal Sydney (_good_) 231
Fricasseed Veal (_Entrée_) 231
Small _Entreés_ of 232
Sweetbreads, Calf’s Brains
and Ears, &c.
CHAPTER XII.
MUTTON AND LAMB.
Page
Different joints of Mutton 233
When in season 233
To choose Mutton 233
To roast a Haunch of Mutton 234
Roast Saddle of Mutton 235
To roast a Leg of Mutton 235
Superior receipt for roast Leg 235
of Mutton
Braised Leg of Mutton 236
Leg of Mutton boned and forced 236
A boiled Leg of Mutton, with 237
Tongue and Turnips (_an
excellent receipt_)
Roast or stewed Fillet of 238
Mutton
To roast a Loin of Mutton 238
To dress a Loin of Mutton like 239
Venison
Roast Neck of Mutton 239
To Roast a Shoulder of Mutton 239
The Cavalier’s broil 240
Forced Shoulder of Mutton 240
Mutton Cutlets stewed in their 240
own Gravy
To broil Mutton Cutlets 241
(_Entrée_)
China Chilo 241
A good family stew of Mutton 242
An Irish stew 242
A Baked Irish stew 243
Cutlets of cold Mutton 243
Mutton Kidneys _à la 243
Française_ (_Entrée_)
Broiled Mutton Kidneys 244
Oxford receipt for Mutton 244
Kidneys (_Breakfast dish or
Entrée_)
To roast a Fore Quarter of 244
Lamb
Saddle of Lamb 245
Roast Loin of Lamb 245
Stewed Leg of Lamb, with white 245
Sauce (_Entrée_)
Loin of Lamb stewed in butter 246
(_Entrée_)
Lamb or Mutton Cutlets, with 246
Soubise Sauce (_Entrée_)
Lamb Cutlets in their own 246
Gravy
Cutlets of cold Lamb 246
CHAPTER XIII.
PORK.
Page
Different joints of Pork 247
When in season 247
To choose Pork 247
To melt Lard 248
To preserve unmelted Lard for 248
many months
To roast a Sucking Pig 249
Baked Pig 250
Pig _à la Tartare_ (_Entrée_) 250
Sucking Pig, _en blanquette_ 250
(_Entrée_)
To roast Pork 251
To roast a Saddle of Pork 251
To broil or fry Pork Cutlets 251
Cobbett’s receipt for curing 252
Bacon
A genuine Yorkshire receipt 253
for curing Hams and Bacon
Kentish mode of cutting up and 254
curing a Pig
French Bacon for larding 254
To pickle Cheeks of Bacon and 257
Hams
Monsieur Ude’s receipt for 255
Hams superior to Westphalia
Super-excellent Bacon 256
Hams (_Bordyke receipt_) 256
To boil a Ham 256
To garnish and ornament Hams 257
in various ways
French receipt for boiling a 258
Ham
To bake a Ham 258
To boil Bacon 259
Bacon broiled or fried 259
Dressed Rashers of Bacon 259
Tonbridge Brawn 260
Italian Pork Cheese 260
Sausage-meat Cake, or _Pain de 261
Porc Frais_
Sausages 261
Kentish Sausage-meat 261
Excellent Sausages 262
Pounded Sausage-meat (_very 262
good_)
Boiled Sausages (_Entrée_) 262
Sausages and Chestnuts (_an 262
excellent dish._) (_Entrée_)
Truffled Sausages, or 263
_Saucisses aux truffles_
CHAPTER XIV.
POULTRY.
Page
To choose Poultry 264
To bone a Fowl or Turkey 265
without opening it
Another mode of boning a Fowl 265
or Turkey
To bone Fowls for Fricassees, 266
Curries, and Pies
To roast a Turkey 267
To boil a Turkey Poult 267
Turkey boned and forced (_an 268
excellent dish_)
Turkey _à la Flamande_, or 270
_dinde Poudrée_
To roast a Turkey 270
To roast a Goose (_and when in 271
season_)
To roast a green Goose 271
To roast a Fowl 272
Roast Fowl (_a French 272
receipt_)
To roast a Guinea Fowl 272
Fowl _à la Carlsfors_ 273
(_Entrée_)
Boiled Fowls 273
To broil a Chicken or Fowl 274
Fricasseed Fowls or Chickens 274
(_Entrée_)
Chicken Cutlets (_Entrée_) 275
Cutlets of Fowls, Partridges, 275
or Pigeons (_French
receipt_) (_Entrée_)
Fried Chicken, _à la Malabar_ 275
(_Entrée_)
Hashed Fowl (_Entrée_) 276
French, and other receipts for 276
minced Fowl (_Entrée_)
Minced Fowl (_French receipt_) 275
(_Entrée_)
_Fritot_ or _Friteau_ of cold 277
Fowls (_Entrée_)
Scallops of Fowls _au 277
Béchamel_ (_Entrée_)
Grillade of cold Fowls 277
Fowls _à la Mayonnaise_ 278
To roast Ducks (_and when in 278
season_)
Stewed Duck (_Entrée_) 278
To roast Pigeons (_and when in 279
season_)
Boiled Pigeons 279
CHAPTER XV.
GAME.
Page
To choose Game 281
To roast a Haunch of Venison 282
To stew a Shoulder of Venison 283
To Hash Venison 284
To roast a Hare 284
Roast Hare (_superior 285
receipt_)
Stewed Hare 286
To roast a Rabbit 286
To boil Rabbits 286
Fried Rabbit 287
To roast a Pheasant 287
_Boudin_ of Pheasant, _à la 288
Richelieu_ (_Entrée_)
To roast Partridges 288
Boiled Partridges 289
Partridges with Mushrooms 289
Broiled Partridge (_breakfast 290
dish_)
Broiled Partridge (_French 290
receipt_)
The French, or Red-legged 290
Partridge
To roast the Landrail or 291
Corn-Crake
To roast Black Cock and Gray 291
Hen (_and when in season_)
To roast Grouse 292
A _salmi_ of Moorfowl, 292
Pheasants, or Partridges
(_Entrée_)
French _salmi_, or hash of 292
Game (_Entrée_)
To roast Woodcocks or Snipes 293
(_and their season_)
To roast the Pintail or 294
Sea-Pheasant, with the
season of all Wild Fowl
To roast Wild Ducks 294
A _salmi_ or hash of Wild Fowl 294
CHAPTER XVI.
CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, ETC.
Page
Remarks on Curries 296
Mr. Arnott’s Currie Powder 297
Mr. Arnott’s Currie 297
A Bengal Currie 298
A dry Currie 298
A common Indian Currie 299
Selim’s Curries (Captain 300
White’s)
Curried Macaroni 300
Curried Eggs 301
Curried Sweetbreads 301
Curried Oysters 302
Curried Gravy 302
Potted Meats 303
Potted Ham (_an excellent 304
receipt_)
Potted Chicken, Partridge, or 305
Pheasant
Potted Ox Tongue 305
Potted Anchovies 306
Lobster Butter (Chapter VI.)
Potted Shrimps or Prawns 306
(_delicious_)
Potted Mushrooms (see Chapter
XVII.)
Moulded Potted Meat or Fish, 306
for the second course
Potted Hare 307
CHAPTER XVII.
VEGETABLES.
Page
Observations on Vegetables 308
To clear Vegetables from 309
Insects
To boil Vegetables green 309
Potatoes,—remarks on their 309
properties and importance
To boil Potatoes as in Ireland 310
To boil Potatoes (the 311
Lancashire way)
To boil new Potatoes 311
New Potatoes in Butter 312
To boil Potatoes (_Captain 312
Kater’s receipt_)
To roast or bake Potatoes 312
Scooped Potatoes (_Entremets_) 312
Crisped Potatoes, or 313
Potato-Ribbons
(_Entremets_), or to serve
with Cheese
Fried Potatoes (_Entremets_) 313
(_plainer receipt_)
Mashed Potatoes 313
English Potato-Balls, or 314
_Croquettes_
Potato _Boulettes_ 314
(_Entremets_) (_good_)
Potato _Rissoles_ (_French_) 315
Potatoes _à la Maître d’Hôtel_ 315
Potatoes _à la Crème_ 315
_Kohl_-Cannon, or Kale-Cannon 315
(_an Irish receipt_)
To boil Sea-Kale 316
Sea-Kale stewed in Gravy 316
(_Entremets_)
Spinach (_Entremets_) (_French 316
receipt_)
Spinach _à l’Anglaise_, or 317
English fashion
(_Entremets_)
Spinach (_common English 317
mode_)
Another common English receipt 317
for Spinach
To dress Dandelions like 318
Spinach, or as a Salad
(_very wholesome_)
Boiled Turnip Radishes 318
Boiled Leeks 318
Stewed Lettuces 319
To boil Asparagus 319
Asparagus points dressed like 319
Peas (_Entremets_)
To boil Green Peas 320
Green Peas _à la Française_, 320
or French fashion
(_Entremets_)
Green Peas with Cream 321
(_Entremets_)
To boil French Beans 321
French Beans _à la Française_ 321
(_Entremets_)
An excellent receipt for 322
French Beans _à la
Française_
To boil Windsor Beans 322
Dressed Cucumbers 322
Mandrang, or Mandram (_West 323
Indian receipt_)
Another receipt for Mandram 323
Dressed Cucumbers (_Author’s 323
receipt_)
Stewed Cucumbers (_English 323
mode_)
Cucumbers _à la Poulette_ 324
Cucumbers _à la Créme_ 324
Fried Cucumbers, to serve in 324
common hashes and minces
Melon 325
To boil Cauliflowers 325
Cauliflowers (_French 325
receipt_)
Cauliflowers with Parmesan 325
Cheese
Cauliflowers _à la Française_ 326
Brocoli 326
To boil Artichokes 326
Artichokes _en Salade_ (see
Chapter VI.)
Vegetable Marrow 327
Roast Tomatas (_to serve with 327
roast Mutton_)
Stewed Tomatas 327
Forced Tomatas (_English 327
receipt_)
Forced Tomatas (_French 328
receipt_)
Purée of Tomatas 328
To boil Green Indian Corn 329
Mushrooms _au Beurre_ 329
Potted Mushrooms 330
Mushroom-Toast, or _Croule aux 330
Champignons_ (_excellent_)
Truffles, and their uses 331
Truffles _à la Serviette_ 331
Truffles _à l’Italienne_ 331
To prepare Truffles for use 332
To boil Sprouts, Cabbages, 332
Savoys, Lettuces, or Endive
Stewed Cabbage 333
To boil Turnips 333
To mash Turnips 333
Turnips in white Sauce 334
(_Entremets_)
Turnips stewed in Butter 334
(_good_)
Turnips in Gravy 335
To boil Carrots 335
Carrots (_the Windsor 335
receipt_) (_Entremets_)
Sweet Carrots (_Entremets_) 336
Mashed (or Buttered) Carrots 336
(_a Dutch receipt_)
Carrots au Beurre, or Buttered 336
Carrots (_French receipt_)
Carrots in their own Juice (_a 337
simple but excellent
receipt_)
To boil Parsneps 337
Fried Parsneps 337
Jerusalem Artichokes 337
To fry Jerusalem Artichokes 338
(_Entremets_)
Jerusalem Artichokes _à la 338
Reine_
Mashed Jerusalem Artichokes 338
_Haricots Blancs_ 338
To boil Beet-Root 339
To bake Beet-Root 339
Stewed Beet-Root 340
To stew Red Cabbage (_Flemish 340
receipt_)
Brussels Sprouts 340
Salsify 341
Fried Salsify (_Entremets_) 341
Boiled Celery 341
Stewed Celery 341
Stewed Onions 342
Stewed Chestnuts 342