THE BARREN LANDS, OR “ARCTIC PRAIRIE.”
Tree Growth and Timber Resources.
Phenomenal Extensions of Tree Growth Within the Barren Lands Along
the Valley of Thelon river.—Black Spruce, Larch, White Spruce,
Banskian Pine and Birch.—Valuable Timber Along the Thelon,
About the East End of Great Slave lake and Between Great Bear
lake and Coppermine river.
In his valuable report, Mr. E. A. Preble, of the United States
Biological Survey, states that Coppermine, Thelon, and many of the
smaller rivers of the Barren Lands are wooded to some extent on their
upper portions, but by far the greater part of the area drained by them
is treeless.
Mr. Preble traces the northern boundary of the great transcontinental
forest from the western shore of Hudson bay to the mouth of the
Mackenzie as follows:—“Starting from the mouth of Churchill river,
Hudson bay, the tree-line follows the shore closely for a few miles and
then curves gently inland. Thence it extends northwesterly crossing
Nueltin, or Island lake, Ennadai lake on Kazan river and Boyd lake on
the Dubawnt. Just north of 63 degrees on Artillery lake is the next
point where we have a definite dividing line. Between the Dubawnt and
Artillery lake is the valley of the upper Thelon or Ark-i-linik, along
whose banks the forest extends in a narrow line far into the general
treeless area. From Artillery lake the line extends northwestward to
Point lake, curving toward the southwest in the interval and crossing
Lake Mackay, south of latitude 64 degrees. From Point lake, whose shores
are practically devoid of trees, nearly to latitude 67 degrees the banks
of the Coppermine are so thinly wooded that the river may be taken as
the approximate boundary of the woods. Spruces occur on the Coppermine
as far north as the mouth of Kendall river, but are absent from the
summit of the divide between there and Great Bear lake and reappear on
lower Dease river. Between Dease river and the lower Anderson the
boundary of the woods is not well known.”
It will be remembered by those familiar with the subject, that, in
defining the eastern end of the forest line, Mr. Preble has closely
followed the definition laid down by Mr. J. B. Tyrrell in the official
report of his exploration of the country south and east of Dubawnt lakes
and Chesterfield inlet. Mr. Tyrrell states in his report:—
“The region may be divided into Forests, and Treeless Plains or ‘Barren
Lands’, by a line which curves around the bottom of Button bay, and then
continues within sight of the shore as far as Hubbart point, beyond
which it strikes northwestward almost at right angles to the magnetic
meridian, crossing Kazan river at the southern narrows of Ennadai lake,
and Telzoa river about the middle of Boyd lake.”
BLACK AND WHITE SPRUCE AND LARCH.
“The forested country is chiefly wooded with small black spruce (_Picea
nigra_) and larch (_Larix Americana_) while the lowlands are almost
everywhere covered with deep mossy swamps. Proceeding northwards, the
woods become confined to the lowlands and the tops of the hills remain
treeless. Such are the conditions of the surface around Kasba and Daly
lakes. Farther northward the wooded plains give place more or less
suddenly to level or rolling grassy plains, which constitute the Barren
Lands. As the forest disappears, much of the surface is covered by deep
frozen mossy bogs or tundras, but these occur only along the edge of the
forest, and do not form part of the Barren Lands proper.
“Besides the two species of trees above mentioned, the white spruce
(_Picea alba_) grows to quite a large size on some of the dry estuaries,
and on the stony, well-drained banks of Telzoa river. It extends
northward almost to Dubawnt lake, forming a larger tree than either of
the others. At Churchill, near the shore of Hudson bay, small white
spruce were found to have entirely replaced black spruce in the swamps.
A few miles farther inland, black spruce again takes its normal place in
similar swamps, and white spruce almost disappears.
“Banksian Pine (_Pinus Banksiana_) grows on the sandy plains along Stone
river, and northward, on dry sandy ridges, as far as Selwyn and Theitaga
lakes, but it does not extend as far north as either spruce or larch.
Canoe Birch (_Betula papyrifera_) grows to a fairly large size at the
head of Thlewiaza river but as a rule it is a small tree in this region.
It gradually decreases in size and disappears at the edge of the Barren
Lands. Some small aspen trees (_Populus tremuloides_) were seen as far
north as Daly lake on Telzoa river, latitude 60°, on the headwaters of
Thlewiaza river, and at the mouth of Churchill river on Hudson bay.
Mr. Tyrrell’s expedition of 1893 did not find much timber along Dubawnt
river. Mr. J. W. Tyrrell (“Through the Sub-Arctics of Canada”) mentions
that the party found a little clump of white spruce trees on the north
shore of Carey lake on the Dubawnt in latitude 62° 15′ north. Two feet
above the ground the trunk of the largest tree measured eight feet in
circumference.
Mr. Tyrrell also states that the southern affluent of Dubawnt lake “has
scattered groves of white spruce on its banks.”
TIMBER ALONG THE THELON.
There is considerable timber along the Thelon and the main tributary of
its upper reach, the Hanbury, so named from the original explorer of
both streams. Mr. Hanbury, describing his exploratory trip,
writes:—“The peculiarity of the Ark-i-linik (the Indian name then
applied to the Thelon and its tributary the Hanbury) is that, though so
far north, it is wooded on either bank, and in places one might even say
heavily timbered, spruce trees, with butts measuring one and one-half to
two feet across, being by no means uncommon. It is a long way north of
the limit of trees marked on the maps, and there is a large extent of
country to the south of it destitute of trees. I can find no explanation
of this peculiarity from the geological formation, for the same red and
white sandstone which prevails nearly the whole length of the river
occurs at places which are without trees.
“The woods as a whole amount only to a rather deep fringe, the trees for
the most part being scattered and not continuous. Here and there along
the banks are spots and short stretches quite bare of timber. After a
short walk away from the river on either side one reaches the outer edge
of the woodland fringe beyond which the land is typical prairie. Along
the creeks and effluents, however, the growth extends to a considerable
distance, in places as far as the eye can reach the trees diminishing in
size until the spruce is mere scrub.”
Ascending the main branch of the Thelon, Mr. Hanbury describes the
timber as beginning about fifty miles above the mouth of the river at
Beverly lake. That far northeast he states “spruce of fair-size growth
is to be found, and the woods then increase in size of timber and in
extent until the river divides, the larger branch coming in from the
south, the smaller—which we followed up—joining from the west.”
OF GREAT VALUE TO CANADA.
Mr. J. W. Tyrrell, in the official report of his exploration along
Hanbury and Thelon rivers for the Dominion government in 1900,
remarks:—“The timber supply of the Thelon should be of great value to
Canada.”
Mr. Tyrrell mentions a grove of spruce on the Thelon, two miles below
the junction of Hanbury river, and relates that eight miles farther down
stream “well grown spruce trees were plentiful on both banks. Here, and
for many miles below, the Thelon is a really fine and beautiful river,
having grassy banks—well wooded in places by spruce trees—some of
which measured some fifteen inches in diameter.
“The wooded or partially wooded banks of the Thelon extend altogether
for a distance of about one hundred and seventy miles below the forks of
the Hanbury. This distance is not to be understood as a continuous
stretch of timber, but over that distance many fine spruce groves, as
well as more or less continuous thinly scattered trees are found. The
largest trees measured from twelve to fifteen inches in diameter, but
would average about six inches.”
In his book “Through the Sub-Arctics of Canada” Mr. Tyrrell again refers
to the timber along the Hanbury and the Thelon, writing:—“In the
valleys of the Thelon and some other rivers there are valuable belts of
spruce and tamarack timber for local supply when required.”
In the official report of his long patrol in 1908 Inspector Pelletier
writes:—“A good amount of wood for fuel is available on Hanbury river.
In places timber is of fair dimension. In one or two ravines near
Dickson canyon I would judge the timber to be of sufficient size to
erect a comfortable log camp.
A SIXTY MILE STRETCH OF SPRUCE TIMBER.
“The banks of the Thelon are very well stocked with timber. Of course
there are fairly long stretches on which wood is very scarce,
principally at the lower end, but still fuel is found everywhere, either
drift or standing. The best stretches of solid timber are from about
twenty miles below the Hanbury and extend for sixty miles. The stretch
is nearly without interruption. There is another stretch of about ten
miles, fifteen miles below Lookout point, and at numerous other points
good timber, but in small quantity, is seen. This timber does not extend
very far inland. It varies from a few yards deep to two or three miles.
In some parts, the timber extends still farther inland. Lumber of fair
size from six to ten inches in diameter is abundant. All the timber is
spruce.”
Inspector Pelletier speaks of a ten mile stretch on the Thelon, where
there “was continuous forest on both banks, and as thick as on any river
in the timbered belt.”
Inspector Pelletier also reports:—“On Beverly lake (Thelon river) any
amount of driftwood is to be found, on Aberdeen lake very little, and
below none at all.”
THE THELON SPRUCE GROVES PHENOMENAL.
Mr. E. A. Preble, of the United States Biological Survey, in his report
has this to say as to the growth of timber along the Thelon:—“The
northern extension of the coniferous forest along the banks of
northward-flowing rivers has already been referred to. The most
remarkable example of this phenomenon is found on the Thelon or
Ark-i-linik, a stream tributary to Hudson bay. It was first explored by
Hanbury in 1899, and by J. W. Tyrrell during the following season. From
a point near latitude sixty-two and one-half degrees, which is as far
south as the river has been explored, and which is within the main area
of the Barren Grounds, a more or less continuous belt of spruce borders
the river as far north as latitude sixty-four and one-half degrees, a
distance of over two hundred miles by the river. A few species of
woodland-breeding birds follow these extensions of the forest to their
limits.”
EASTERN PART OF GREAT SLAVE LAKE.
Inspector Pelletier also gives us some information as to the timber
resources of the eastern part of Great Slave lake and along the canoe
and portage route to Hanbury river. He writes:—“On the south shore of
Great Slave lake much good timber was met. On the north shore timber
diminishes very perceptibly in size, and the farther one proceeds the
more it gets stunted and scattered; only in some favoured spots is
timber of any size, but no large area. It consists chiefly of spruce,
birch, poplar and jackpine. At the upper end of the first portage from
Great Slave lake timber gets very scarce, at French lake a large open
spot and at Acres lake we are practically at the beginning of the
Barrens, although there is a good lot of wood close to the shore and in
sheltered spots. At north end of Burr lake is a nice grove of good sized
trees. The country gets rocky and barren, grass growing only in favoured
spots.
“At the southern end of Artillery lake, along the small ravines on the
east bank, is a fair amount of wood good for fuel and building dog
sleighs, but as soon as one crosses Lockhart river where the lake gets
wider, wood is seen here and there only in small bluffs. It is small,
bent and dwarfed by the wind storms and snow. There is very little
substance in the soil, and vegetation must be very slow. Trees grow
mostly in the shelter of a bank, whether stone or sand. At about half
way up the lake on the east side the last woods are met; on the edges
they are low, bent and creepy, as if in readiness to grasp the soil for
support to resist the force of the elements. Nothing further grows but
some grasses in favoured spots, and at the rapids, where there is a lot
of dampness, willows grow between the crevices of upturned boulders.
Above Kasba lake on the route followed even willows do not grow. In the
eddies at the foot of the rapids on Kasba river I have seen sticks, some
of which had been cut with an axe or other tool. Those pieces of wood
were small but of a size which leads me to believe that somewhere on
Clinton-Colden or farther west on Aylmer lake, timber of some kind is to
be found. These sticks or pieces of wood were very old as if they had
been tossed up and washed by water for a long period. Moss grows in
places and for fuel purposes a few experiments with the different kinds
will demonstrate which is the best. We found the black thick sort, which
grows on the stones, is very light and dry and burns the best. One makes
a tunnel with stones and places the door towards the wind, the more wind
and draught the better.”
SCATTERED TIMBER EAST OF GREAT SLAVE LAKE.
In the report of his trip in 1900, Mr. J. W. Tyrrell also gives us some
glimpses of the timber about the east end of Great Slave lake and the
lakes and river to the east and northeast of that locality. According to
Mr. Tyrrell, “Fairchild point (near old Fort Reliance), which is about
ten miles in length, is well wooded with white spruce from six to twelve
inches in diameter and is notable as being the source of timber in that
locality.
“The shores of Carlton harbour are sparingly wooded with small spruce
and a few Banksian pines. It might be noted here that on Fairchild point
a few black poplars were observed, the last seen on our outward journey.
“At Fort Reliance, here and there, are to be seen the charred remains of
large stumps, indicating the apparent recent destruction of the original
forest.
“The largest young trees, which showed thirty-four to thirty-five years’
growth, were from four to six inches in diameter two feet from the
ground, and were not of stunted appearance.
“At the north end of Burr lake there is situated a nice grove of white
spruce timber, containing trees of ten to twelve inches diameter. It
proved to be the last timber of any consequence met with before entering
the barren lands, excepting some on the west shore of Artillery lake
near Timber bay.
“On the western side of Artillery lake, about ten miles from the south
end, the shore is quite well timbered with small spruce and they
continue northerly, although thinly scattered, for a distance of twenty
miles, eight miles farther north than the last grove on the east shore.
There the woods cease entirely.”
It is interesting to recall that Back pointed out that “the pines are
said to disappear along Artillery lake.”
Mr. Warburton Pike thus describes the same country at the time he passed
through it:—
“Scattering timber, spruce and birch, clothed the sloping banks to the
sandy shores of the lakes; berries of many kinds grew in profusion; the
portages were short and down hill; and caribou were walking the ridges
and swimming the lakes in every direction. A perfect northern fairyland
it was, and it seemed hard to believe that winter and want could ever
penetrate here.”
TIMBER OF THE FAR NORTH.
The first reference to the timber of the northern part of the Barren
Lands we find in the report of Samuel Hearne, who in 1771, speaking of
his discovery of Coppermine river, writes:—“Before I proceed farther on
my return, it may not be improper to give some account of the river, and
the country adjacent; its productions, and the animals which constantly
inhabit those dreary regions, as well as those that only migrate thither
in summer, in order to breed and rear their young, unmolested by man.
That I may do this to better purpose, it will be necessary to go back to
the place where I first came to the river, which was about forty miles
from its mouth. Near the water’s edge there is some wood, but not one
tree grows on or near the top of the hills between which the river runs.
There appears to have been formerly much greater quantity than there is
at present, but the trees seem to have been set on fire some years ago
and, in consequence, there are at present ten sticks lying on the ground
for one green one which is growing beside them. The whole timber appears
to have been even in its greatest prosperity of so crooked and dwarfed a
growth as to render it of little use for any purpose but firewood.
“Besides the stunted pines already mentioned, there are some tufts of
dwarf willows; plenty of Wishacumpuckey (as the Indians call it, and
which they use as tea); some jackatheypuck, which the natives use as
tobacco; and a few cranberry and heathberry bushes; but not the least
appearance of any fruit.
“The weeds grow gradually thinner and smaller as you approach the sea,
and the last little tuft of pines that I saw is about thirty miles from
the mouth of the river, so that we meet with nothing between that spot
and the sea-side but barren hills and marshes.”
Sir John Franklin on his first journey, in 1819-22, reached the upper
part of Coppermine river at Point lake just east of the southern arm of
Great Bear lake. He found the “valleys on its border intersected with
clusters of spruce trees. On the borders of such of these lakes as
communicate with Coppermine river, there are a few groves of spruce
trees, generally growing on accumulations of sand.”
COPPERMINE VALLEY.
Sir John refers as follows to the timber growths on the small lakes or
expansions of the Coppermine as observed during the descent of his
party:—
“Red Rock lake is in general narrow, its shelving banks are well clothed
with wood, and even the hills, which attain an elevation of four hundred
or five hundred feet, are ornamented half way up with stunted pines.”
“At Rock-Nest lake (just north of Red Rock lake) the only wood is the
pine, which is twenty or thirty feet high, and about one foot in
diameter.
“At Fairy lake the river flows between banks of sand thinly wooded, and
as we advanced the barren hills approached the water’s edge.”
West of that part of Coppermine river which is nearest to Great Bear
lake, Sir John Richardson in 1826 said that they met with wooded valleys
and saw much wood in the valleys far to the west. From the height of
land between Coppermine river and Great Bear lake they had an extensive
view of a lower and well wooded country.
Of the country above Bloody falls, on the Coppermine, Sir John Franklin
writes:—“In the existence of many scattered stumps of decayed spruce
fir trees, and the total absence of young plants, one might be led to
infer that of late years the climate has deteriorated and that the
country was no longer capable of supporting trees so near the sea coast
as it had formerly done. The largest tree in the clump in which we
bivouacked had a circumference of thirty-seven inches at the height of
four feet from the ground. Its annual layers were very numerous and fine
and indicated centuries of growth, but I was unable to reckon them.”
FINE SPRUCE NORTHEAST OF GREAT BEAR LAKE.
In 1848, writing of the area between Dease bay (the extreme northeastern
arm of Great Bear lake) and Coppermine river, Sir John Franklin
states:—“At two we came to another branch of the Kendall, which runs
through a ravine of red and spotted sandstone, under whose shelter there
grew a remarkably fine grove of white spruces. The best grown tree
measured sixty-three inches in circumference and did not taper
perceptibly for twenty feet from its root. Its total height was from
forty to fifty feet. Other trees of equal girth tapered more, and one
decayed trunk, which lay on the ground, looked to be considerably
thicker.”
Hanbury mentions that along the north shore of Barry island in Bathurst
inlet he “picked up some drift sticks which evidently must have come
from Hood river” which flows into Arctic waters some distance east of
Coppermine river.
Sir George Back describes the banks of Backs river as being rocky and
treeless (“without a single tree on the whole line of its banks”).