NORTHERN SASKATCHEWAN.
Tree Growth and Timber Resources.
A Rare Bit of Sylvan Beauty.—Ash-Leaved Maples Successfully Grown
From Seed.—Notes by The Way on Available Water Powers.—Much
Country Covered with Small Timber Not Generally of Commercial
Value.—Some Areas of Good Timber Which Will be Invaluable To
the Settlers.
The wide belt of territory north of the Saskatchewan as far northward as
Churchill and Clearwater rivers, is pre-eminently a wooded country, its
resources in the way of timber being very valuable, and its
forest-clothed mounds, river valleys and lake basins imparting to it a
beautiful park-like appearance in marked contrast to the more monotonous
scenery of the great prairie country south of the Saskatchewan. There is
little doubt that the scenic beauties of the region, by attracting
travellers, will, when there is railway communication, contribute
materially to the development of the natural resources of this extremely
promising portion of the, as yet, unexploited northwest. Included in
this territory is the famous scenery of Methye portage, which for
upwards of a century has excited the admiration of explorers and
travellers as perhaps the most superb natural panorama of forest scenery
in North America. Of the many books and diaries of men who have had the
privilege of enjoying this view, there is not one which omits to pay
tribute to its beauty.
Alexander Mackenzie, in the account of his trip of 1789, describes the
height of land overlooking the Clearwater from Methye portage as
commanding “a most extensive, romantic and ravishing prospect. From here
the eye looks down on the course of the little river, by some called
Swan river, by others Clearwater or Pelican river, beautifully
meandering for upwards of thirty miles. The valley, which is at once
refreshed and adorned by it, is about three miles in breadth and is
confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, displaying a most
beautiful intermixture of wood and lawn, and stretching on till the blue
mist obscures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining heights are
covered with stately forests, relieved by promontories of the finest
verdure, where the elk and buffalo find pasture. These are contrasted by
spots where fire has destroyed the woods and left a dreary void behind
it. . . . . . . .”
Mackenzie, further, declares this “enchanting scenery” to be a
“wonderful display of uncultivated nature.”
MOST DELIGHTFUL NATURAL SCENERY.
Harmon, writing in 1800, gives us the following as his impression of
this view:—“About a mile from this end of the portage is a hill, which
towers majestically to the height of a thousand feet above the plain
below, and which commands a most extensive and delightful prospect. Two
lofty and extensive ridges enclose a valley about three miles in width,
which stretches far as the eye can reach. Little river, which is also,
by different persons, denominated Swan, Clearwater, or Pelican river,
winds in a most delightful manner along this charming valley. The
majestic forests, which wave upon these ridges, the delightful verdure
of the intervening lawn, and the beautiful stream which wanders along
through it, giving a pleasing variety to the scene, until these objects
become blended with the horizon, form, on the whole, the most delightful
natural scenery that I ever beheld.”
Sir John Franklin, in his account of his expeditions, writing of the
view from the heights above the Clearwater at Methye portage, describes
it as “the most picturesque and romantic prospect we had yet seen in
this country. Two ranges of high hills run parallel to each other for
several miles until the faint blue haze hides their particular
characters, when they slightly change their course and are lost to the
view.”
Captain (later Sir) George Back makes enthusiastic references to this
beautiful view, for instance the following:—“A thousand feet below, the
sylvan landscape lay spread before us, to the extent of thirty-six
miles, in all the wild luxuriance of its summer clothing. Even the most
jaded of the party, as he broke from the gloom of the wood on this
enchanting scene, seemed to forget his weariness, and halted
involuntarily with his burden
TO GAZE FOR A MOMENT,
with a sort of wondering admiration, on a spectacle so novel and
magnificent. . . . . . . . . . . There is something appalling in the
vastness of a solitude like this.”
Sir George Simpson, in his narrative, speaks of “that noble view of
Clearwater river which has been drawn with so much truth and beauty by
Sir George Back.”
Bishop Tache, in the accounts of his travels, writes of the
Clearwater:—“This delightful little stream, rising to the east of
Methye portage has, up to the present time, and in spite of the
difficulties of navigation, enjoyed almost the exclusive privilege of
supplying a route to Athabaska-Mackenzie. On descending the heights of
Methye portage one takes boat on this little river which, in order to
keep the traveller in the midst of the beauties it presents to his view,
places obstructions in the way, necessitating the portages of White Mud,
the Pines, Bigstone, the Horse and the Cascades.”
The early travellers were also impressed with the fine trees in this
section of the northwest, and occasionally mention extra fine groves
which attracted their attention. For instance, Simpson speaks of “firs
of great size” on a projecting point in Methye lake, and, referring to
one of his camps in Clearwater valley, says:—“One of the pines, under
shelter of which we took up our night’s lodgings, measured three yards
in girth at five feet from the ground.”
As in other parts of Canada, forest fires have wrought dreadful havoc in
parts of this belt, but there still remains considerable areas of good
timber.
The Venerable Archdeacon McKay, in his examination before the Senate
committee of 1907, stated that as to the country around Lac la Ronge
there is timber all through it, wherever it has not been destroyed by
fires. He explained that he put up a sawmill operated by water power at
Lac la Ronge in 1906. The logs that are sawn there are the kind of
timber found in that part of the country. They average seventeen logs to
the thousand feet. They would be logs fourteen or fifteen feet long. The
diameter would be about two feet across at the butt—good, large logs,
clean timber, very much the same timber as at Prince Albert. This good
timber is scattered all over the country, sometimes for miles. It
depends on the nature of the country.
Asked how far this timber area would outskirt to the east, west and
north, the Archdeacon replied he would say that kind of country extended
all the way through right down to Lac la Ronge, and down all the way to
the border of the province. Although he had not been through it, he had
travelled backwards and forwards on it a good deal, visited Indian camps
and so on, and it is very much the same kind of timber all through. In
some places it is muskeg, and in some places heavy timber. Reindeer lake
is not north of the tree limit. There are trees there, but they are
small. They do not grow so large as farther south. It is a good way
north of Reindeer lake before the barren grounds are reached. The
Archdeacon had never been farther north than Reindeer lake.
TIMBER ABOUT LAC LA RONGE.
Mr. Tyrrell describes the country immediately north of the Saskatchewan
as a thickly wooded belt, “which contains a large quantity of timber,
chiefly white spruce, trees up to eighteen inches in diameter. It is a
wooded country with trees from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter,
tall with clean trunks—good, nice timber. Of course, the timber does
not grow as large on high, dry, sandy ridges as it grows in the valleys.
Most of the timber is in good soil in the valley bottoms, but there is
more or less land all over. The poplar and birch affects the higher
land, and the spruce and hemlock the valleys.”
Mr. Dowling states that the sides of Green lake are “densely wooded with
poplar and spruce.”
PIONEER ARBORICULTURE.
Speaking of his visit to Ile à la Crosse lake, Mr. Dowling states in his
report:—“Some ash-leaved maples had been planted in the garden of the
Hudson’s Bay Company’s post, which are now from ten to fifteen feet
high, quite healthy and bearing abundant seed.”
According to Mr. Dowling’s report “The timber in the rocky country
bordered by the southern shore of Lac la Ronge is not large or abundant.
Southward there is some improvement, and large individual spruce trees
occur occasionally. The ‘lob sticks’ at Big Stone, Hudson’s Bay
Company’s post, are fine examples of these. On Montreal river, small
Banksian pine cover the eastern slope of the sandy plateau. No large
timber, spruce or pine, is seen till near the lake, where at the
southern end some groves of large spruce occur. On the watershed south
of Montreal and Deer lakes the largest timber is seen. Here the
formation of the country is evidently morainic, but southward the
country slopes gently towards Saskatchewan river.”
SOME MERCHANTABLE TIMBER AREAS.
Mr. Crean reports that a considerable quantity of merchantable spruce
timber is to be found in Methye lake section. There is some remarkably
fine spruce along the banks of Whitefish river, and it extends in not
very dense forest across to Methye lake, a distance of about eight
miles.
Summarizing the results of his explorations in 1908, Mr. Crean
reports.—“Although numerous prairie openings occur, this tract may be
spoken of as practically covered with small timber not generally of any
commercial value. The poplar is the principal growth, and, following the
rule so well known throughout the western prairie country, indicates
good land. Some spruce is found and large quantities of small second
growth jackpine. There is some tamarack. There is, of course, no white
or red pine. The poplar in some places would make fine pulpwood or
barrel staves. Generally speaking it is of no commercial value. There
are several small groves of good spruce along Churchill river, and at
Methye portage there is a large quantity of good spruce. Along Whitefish
river the timber is large and of good quality. On both the east and west
side of Green lake some good timber is found but it is scattered.
Generally there is ample timber for settlers’ use, but not enough to
supply any lumber industry.
“Throughout this district there are many points where a large amount of
water power could be developed, and there are numerous small power
sites. The district might be utilized so as to create great industrial
centres. The great advantage of the numerous water powers is the fact
that sufficient power can be obtained at many points to supply the needs
of a fair sized community. On almost every stream there are sites where
small powers could be easily developed and grist mills, saw mills,
lighting and pumping plants could be operated at the minimum of expense.
I did not gauge or measure the possibilities of any of the water powers,
but made rough estimates of a few prominent ones. On Beaver river at
what is termed Grand rapids probably
TEN THOUSAND HORSE POWER COULD BE DEVELOPED.
Rapid river, which enters the Churchill about seven miles below Stanley,
falls seventy feet in one cascade. This should afford a large amount of
power. Churchill river between Ile à la Crosse lake and Knee lake, a
distance of about twenty-five miles, has a fall of eighty feet. This
fall is practically all in three rapids, all of which have sharp
descents. At one rapid there is a cascade eight feet high. All the
tributaries on the north side of the Churchill afford ample opportunity
of development of power. Mudjatik river is a series of water-falls.”
Mr. Crean, in his report of 1909, says:—“Waterhen river is very rapid,
and along it are several small falls and steep descents. These would be
ample to develop power for a small community, but not enough for any
commercial proposition. On Clearwater river occurs one of the best
commercial water powers which I have seen. It could be easily and
inexpensively developed.”
All reports agree in saying that there are numerous water powers
susceptible of development throughout the area under review, but there
is not much detailed information given on this point.
[Illustration: Prairie along Clearwater river.]
Mr. Crean reports that along Whitefish river there is a considerable
quantity of good tamarack, but explains that although this timber would
be extremely useful to any settler going into the country, he did not
think there was sufficient for any commercial project. There is a
considerable quantity of timber north of Waterhen lake and river. There
are several scattered clumps of fine spruce in this locality which are
passed on the string of small portages when one is travelling from
Waterhen lake to Island river. The diameter would average perhaps twelve
inches, but running up to twenty-four inches.
THE NATIVE TIMBER TREES.
Mr. Crean incorporates in his report the following description, with
comparative values, of the most common kinds of timber found in the
north:—
“(1). White Spruce (_Picea canadensis_ (Mill) B., S. & P.)
The wood is light, soft, not very strong, straight grained, light
yellow, with hardly distinguishable sapwood. This is the best tree for
lumber purposes in the northern forest, and is also one of the best for
pulpwood. It usually grows on higher ground than the black spruce.
“(2) Black Spruce (_Picea mariana_ (Mill), B., S. & P.)
The wood resembles closely that of the white spruce, and as lumber or
pulpwood no distinction is made between them. The wood has a slight red
tinge and has paler sapwood. The black spruce grows usually in muskegs
and low places and owing to the coldness of the soil does not grow fast,
and is usually small, not usually over six or eight inches in diameter.
“(3). Jackpine (_Pinus Banksiana_, Am.)
The wood is light, soft, not very strong, close grained and dark, nearly
brown in colour, with light thick sapwood. This tree is used mostly for
railway ties and fuel, but is manufactured into lumber to some extent.
It is not equal in colour or smoothness to the wood of the spruce. It is
used for pulp, but has not so fine a fibre or colour as the spruce.
“(4). Tamarack (_Larix americana_, Michx.)
The wood is light brown, heavy, hard, strong, rather coarse grained and
very durable. It is used for railway ties, posts and dimension timbers.
It is not sawn into lumber, being more useful for other purposes, and is
not used for pulp.
“(5). Poplar, Aspen or White Poplar (_Populus tremuloides_, Michx.)
The wood is light brown with almost white sapwood. It is smooth and
easily worked. It is used for pulp and is cut into lumber for inside
finish. As it is a widely extended and quick growing tree it is used
largely for fuel. Next to the spruce it is the most valuable tree for
pulp. It is manufactured largely into finer grades of paper by the soda
process.
“(6). Balsam or Black Poplar (_Populus balsamifera_).
The wood is light brown, with thick sapwood. It is rather coarse and not
strong. It is chiefly used for fuel, though sometimes cut into boards
where other lumber is not available. It is not so valuable as the aspen
poplar.
“(7). Birch (_Betula papyrifera_, Marsh).
The wood is light, strong, tough, hard, very close grained, light brown,
tinged with red, with thick, nearly white sapwood. It is used for
spools, lasts and turned work generally. Birch fibre is short and
brittle, and not easily bleached, and is not suitable for pulp.”
REINDEER LAKE AND RIVER.
The district north of Churchill and Clearwater rivers, authorities
agree, is only thinly wooded, the growth becoming smaller towards the
northern limit. According to Mr. Tyrrell, the banks of Churchill river
from Methye portage to the north of Reindeer river are low and thickly
wooded with spruce and poplar. White spruce (_Picea Alba_) forms some
groves of fair size in the bottom lands along Reindeer river near
Churchill river, but farther north it is rarely seen except in some
particularly favorable localities. One small isolated grove of white
spruce was found in a high sandy island in Hatchet lake, standing out
conspicuously in the midst of the surrounding forest of small black
spruce. Poplar (_Populus tremuloides_) and Birch (_Betula papyrifera_)
are the only remaining trees of any importance. They are chiefly found
in the vicinity of Churchill river, though small scattered trees were
seen on the banks of Stone river. The rocky shores and islands of
Reindeer lake are generally thinly covered with a sparse growth of
small, black spruce. The irregular shores of Wollaston lake are chiefly
composed of thinly wooded, rocky hills. Geikie river flows between low,
sparsely-wooded banks. The banks of Mudjatik river are thinly wooded
with Banksian pine and spruce. As to Cree river, surrounding country is
sandy and very barren supporting but a scanty growth of black spruce and
Banksian pine, with very little underbrush. Some fine, large, white
spruce were noticed at spots on Geikie river.
NEAR LAKE ATHABASKA.
Mr. Tyrrell mentions that along the northeast shore of Lake Athabaska,
“Some good white spruce, up to fourteen inches in diameter, is growing
on the points.”
Mr. Tyrrell, before the Senate committee of 1907, in speaking of the
forests of the country north of the Churchill, explained that far in the
north there is the tract of country that has no trees on it; then a belt
of country from one to two hundred miles in width, with small Banksian
pine, spruce, larch, poplar and some white birch. He would not consider
any of those woods valuable for timber purposes, except locally. They
would serve for pulpwood, but the growth is not thick. Still over
considerable areas there might, of course, be a large quantity of timber
for pulpwood. In that belt the trees would average probably six inches.
Occasionally you would find some a good deal larger. The poplar grows on
the drier lands. It is not an indication of good land in an extremely
northern country. It indicates a dry, sandy soil, but further south it
indicates excellent soil.