THE KEEWATIN AREA.
(Newest Ontario and Northern Manitoba.)
Tree Growth and Timber Resources.
Considerable Areas of Good Timber.—The Range of the More
Important Trees.—The Banskian Pine.—Forests of Trees in Many
Places that Would Make Good Logs, and Much Pulp Wood.—
Occasional Beautiful Forests of Aspen Poplar.—Magnificent
Coniferous Forest Northwest of Lake Winnipeg.—Water Power on
the Nelson.—Destruction Wrought by Forest Fires.—Ample Supply
of Timber For Fuel.
There is considerable evidence showing that there are, in different
sections of the territory immediately west and south of Hudson bay,
considerable areas of useful timber.
Mr. Richard White, one of the witnesses examined before the Hudson Bay
Investigation Committee in 1749 (See p. 8), stated that he saw fir-trees
on the banks of Albany river thirty-five or forty feet long, and
fourteen or sixteen inches square at the bottom, and ten at the top, and
here and there a small stick of birch; that there were a great many
other small pines; but he did not know whether pitch or tar could be
made from them, never having seen a trial.
Rev. John Semmens (See p. 36) writes:—“There is a good deal of timber
in the valleys and on the islands and lakes of Burntwood river course,
though it is sprucy and inclined to be small. I have cut timber as large
as two feet in diameter at the butt and fifty feet in height, but this
is exceptional. From ten to fifteen inches near the ground is a better
estimate of the average size of the trees. The very name of this river
suggests the historic fact that the natives of the country deliberately
and habitually set the woods on fire, their object being to attract the
deer which are known to be fond of the sweet grass which springs from
the ashes of a fire swept surface. The result is that large tracts of
country are denuded of their rich first growth of trees, and young
forests are just coming into the middle stages of growth, while many of
the hills stand bald and bare, giving silent evidence of the severity of
successive visitations of the devouring flame. Yet the charred stumps
and tangled roots here and there speak of a deep and fertile soil, as
well as of possibilities of growth which few have associated with a
so-called ‘frozen north.’ However, all the timber necessary for railroad
purposes and for the use of settlers in building or for commercial
cordwood can be found almost anywhere, the latter in illimitable
quantities.”
Doctor Robert Bell of the Geological Survey, in his report of his
explorations in the
VALLEYS OF NELSON AND CHURCHILL RIVERS
in 1879, states:—“Spruce and tamarac timber are found growing near the
sea coast, in favorable situations as far as Seal river, beyond which
their northeastern limit curves inland. The spruce, although not growing
as a continuous forest quite as far north as Churchill, is still found
of sufficient size in the neighborhood of this post to be used for
building houses, boats, etc. The balsam poplar is rare and of small size
at Churchill. White birch which was found on the main river, eighteen
miles above the forks, is said to occur at about sixty or seventy miles
west of the mouth of the river.”
Doctor Bell proceeds in his report to describe the range of the most
important trees over the area covered by his exploits as follows:—
“White Spruce—(the ‘Pine’ of Rupert’s Land),—This is the most northern
coniferous tree. On the east side of Hudson bay the last of it is seen
on the coast a short distance north of Richmond gulf. On the west side
it terminates about Seal river. Thence its limit runs northwesterly, and
is reported to cross Mackenzie river about two hundred miles below Peel
river.
“Tamarack,—(also called ‘Juniper’ and ‘Red Spruce’)—On the east side
of the bay it accompanies the spruce almost to the extreme limit. It is
abundant at York Factory. Along the lower part of Nelson river it is of
fair size, but on the Churchill it becomes small towards the sea. Its
northern limit runs northwestward to Mackenzie river which it is said to
cross below Peel river.
“Balsam Fir:—(also called ‘Single Spruce’ and ‘Silver Pine’)—Abundant
around the southern part of James bay and on good dry soil along Albany
river. Mr. Cochrane reports it as common around Island lake, but scarcer
on God’s lake. It is rare and of small size on Knee lake. In going down
Nelson river, it is scarce below Sea River falls, and the last tree
which I observed was at the outlet of Sipiwesk lake. On Grass river some
good-sized trees were seen as far north as Standing Rock rapid.
“Balsam Poplar:—(‘Rough-barked Poplar’, ‘Cotton Tree’, ‘Balm of
Gilead’, etc.)—On the west side of Hudson bay, this is the most
northern species of poplar. It is abundant around York Factory, and
attains a fair size along the lower part of Nelson river. In descending
the Great Churchill it becomes smaller and scarcer until the mouth of
the river is reached, when it is rare.
“Aspen:—(‘Trembling-leaved Poplar’)—This tree, which is so abundant
and of such a thrifty growth around the southern part of James bay and
on the border of the prairie regions of the Northwest territories, does
not extend as far north as York Factory. In ascending Nelson river it
was not met until within a few miles of lowest Limestone rapid. It
extends northward nearly to the junction of Little Churchill with Great
Churchill river.
“White Birch:—(‘Canoe Birch’)—This species terminates on Hayes river,
a few miles below Steel river. On the Nelson, the first tree was met
with at seven miles before coming to lowest Limestone rapid, or at
seventy from Point of Marsh. In descending the Little Churchill it
disappeared about midway between Recluse lakes and the mouth, and in
ascending the Great Churchill, it disappeared at eighteen miles above
the forks. Along Burntwood river and the upper part of the Nelson it is
large enough for building canoes, but becomes better for this purpose to
the northwestward, and it is said to be of very good quality around Lake
Athabaska.”
Doctor Bell states in his 1886 report (See p. 18):—“The timber all
AROUND LAKE ST. JOSEPH
has suffered greatly from forest fires at many different times, from
about a century ago to the present year. Parts of the main shores and
many of the islands, especially in the neighborhood of the Grand
Traverse, have escaped the fires, and here full-sized timber may be
seen. The second growth woods are of all ages, from seedlings of a year
ago, up to trees nearly as large as those of the original forests. As
elsewhere in these latitudes, where the old forests of spruce, tamarack,
balsam, white birch, etc., have been burnt, they are succeeded by a
growth of mixed aspens and white birch, with a sprinkling of spruce, or
else by one consisting entirely of Banksian pine. In regard to relative
abundance, the trees found around the lake may be mentioned in the
following order:—white and black spruce, tamarack, aspen, white birch,
Banksian pine, rough-barked poplar, balsam, white cedar, pigeon cherry,
rowan and black ash. The ground or mountain maple (_Acer spicatum_),
which is interesting as an indicator of climate, is common, and it was
traced for a long distance down the Albany. Of the above kinds of
timber, the white spruce and the tamarack are the most important
commercially. The cedar is confined chiefly to the immediate shores of
the lake, where it often forms a continuous but narrow border. About
twenty spruce logs, for sawing into boards, were lying at Osnaburgh
House at the time of our visit. They would average eighteen or twenty
inches in diameter at the butts, the largest being about two feet. The
six largest showed the following number of rings of growth:—one hundred
and thirteen, ninety-seven, one hundred and twenty-one, one hundred and
sixteen, one hundred and seven, and one hundred and twenty, or an
average of one hundred and twelve, these rings indicating, it is
supposed, a corresponding number of years. A new tamarack flag-staff,
which was about to be erected, measured about eighteen inches in
diameter at the butt and showed two hundred and forty-four rings of
growth.”
Doctor Bell reports that on the dry ground along Boulder river the
timber consists of black spruce, tamarack, balsam, aspen and white
birch, but on the wet, level tracts, it was principally black spruce.
All the rapids in Boulder river were overhung by thick groves of
good-sized white cedar, and the same tree was met with in groups in some
of the swamps at a distance from the river.
Doctor Bell, reporting on the country around Lake Lansdowne,
says:—“Except where forest fires have run, large spruce and tamarack
trees and some cedars were observed on the islands and on the mainland
near the lake, and also along the river between it and Nolin island.”
Doctor Bell writes in his report that
ALONG THE ATTAWAPISKAT,
“except where the timber has been destroyed by fire, there is a good
growth of spruce, tamarack, balsam, poplar and white birch, but it does
not extend far back, the country generally being open sphagnum swamps
with small scattered tamarack and black spruce trees.”
Doctor Bell, at one of his examinations before the Senate committee of
1887, produced as an exhibit a branch of the Banksian pine (_Pinus
Banksiana_), often called the jackpine and scrub pine. This is about the
only tree in North America which we can call strictly Canadian. Both its
northern and southern limits are practically in Canada. It extends
thousands of miles from the southeast in New Brunswick to the northwest,
in a belt, throughout the Dominion.
In height this tree grows one hundred feet and upwards. Doctor Bell had
seen them six feet in circumference. The largest trees that he had seen
of this species were on the upper waters of the southern branches of
Albany river. In general, trees attain their greatest perfection in the
centre of their geographical distribution. Sometimes they degenerate
into brush, at the outside edge of the territory in which they grow. As
you go north, south, east or west, they may become smaller and smaller
until they die out, but this is not the case with all kinds of trees.
The Banksian pine is not particularly valuable for lumber. It resembles
the red pine; it has a coarse, distinct grain and can be used for many
purposes. In England it would be used for the manufacture of fashionable
bedroom furniture.
It is something like the pine of Florida and Georgia, which has been
used for some years past in England in the manufacture of furniture. It
would
BECOME AN ARTICLE OF COMMERCE
if means of communication with the northern forests were provided. The
Banksian pine would make good ties, telegraph poles, and timber for
general purposes, besides fuel. In groves it grows very straight, but it
is more likely to be branchy than red pine. Doctor Bell had seen
hundreds of them in groves, affording logs of from twenty to twenty-two
inches in diameter—two or three logs to a tree. It grows very rapidly.
He had seen it, in his own experience, within fifteen years, growing to
be useful trees; whole tracts had been covered with good timber.
Asked while giving evidence before the Senate committee of 1887 whether
the shores of James bay and Hudson bay are wooded, Doctor Bell explained
that on the west side to Seal river, a little beyond Churchill,
commercial timber could be obtained from all the rivers flowing in from
the south, and jackpine from some, and spruce and tamarack from all the
rivers of James bay. This would be all of merchantable size, not
extraordinarily large, but plenty of it. The spruce might be described
as generally of a small size, but making up in quantity in the number of
logs that might be obtained. The tamarack, though, is large.
In the course of his 1886 report (See p. 18) Mr. A. P. Low of the
Geological Survey states:—“The trees around Favourable lake consist of
white and black spruce, aspen and balsam poplar, white birch, balsam and
tamarack, many of which exceed eighteen inches in diameter.” On the
shores of Sandy lake Mr. Low saw many trees of white spruce, poplar,
birch and balsam exceeding eighteen inches in diameter. Between this
lake and Severn lake there is a considerable area supporting a growth of
black and white spruce, tamarack, poplar and birch, slightly smaller
than those seen around the lakes.
As Severn river descends towards Favourable lake “the surrounding
country gradually becomes smoother and the timber larger until within
three miles of the lake, when the stream passes through low, swampy
land, covered with thick, wet moss and a small growth of black spruce
and tamarack.”
Mr. Low reports the soil about Deer lake as being “very thin and the
timber correspondingly poor, except on a few low points where some white
spruce, balsam and poplar exceed fifteen inches in diameter.”
Mr. Low (at the time Director of the Geological Survey), in his evidence
before the Senate committee of 1907, as to the resources of the more
southern sections of Keewatin which he had explored, namely, between
Norway House and Hudson bay, stated that the forest, as in a great many
other parts of Canada, had been largely destroyed by fire, but around
some of the large lakes and on the islands and other places,
A FAIR GROWTH OF TIMBER
is found in that region, with white and black spruce, pine, aspen,
poplar and white birch of eighteen inches diameter. The trees are fairly
clean, and a great many of them would probably make two or three logs,
so that what remains of the timber there is fairly decent and good,
except on the low swampy land where the growth is confined to black
spruce and tamarack of no great size. Throughout the more southern
region described by Mr. Low, there is a good deal of wood that could be
used in the manufacture of pulp.
All of the rivers in the region have waterpowers.
Mr. J. B. Tyrrell, in the report of his explorations in the southern
part of this region in 1896 (See p. 20), wrote:—“The surface is
generally forested, though most of the valuable timber has been
destroyed by fire. On Grass, Muhigan and Minago rivers, as well as on
the shores and islands of some of the lakes, there are still some
forests of excellent white spruce, but on the northern part of Burntwood
river white spruce is rather scarce, and at Nelson House timber for
house logs has to be collected from scattered groves and brought several
miles up or down the brooks or across the lake. Black spruce and canoe
birch grow on the more level and imperfectly drained tracts, and
Banskian pine may be seen here and there on the drier hillsides. Canoe
birch grows to a good size beside the lakes and streams, but aspen
(_Populus tremuloides_) is the commonest deciduous tree, as it grows on
the drier uplands everywhere,
OCCASIONALLY FORMING BEAUTIFUL FORESTS,
but more often, and especially towards the north, partly covering the
surface with scattered groves of small trees. Among the smaller trees or
shrubs, the rowan tree (_Pyrus Americana_) may be mentioned as growing
freely and having an abundant crop of berries along the face of the
limestone escarpment, especially around Wekusko and Reed lakes, and the
wild cherry (_Prunus Virginiana_) grows beside most of the lakes.
“The forests surrounding Reed lake are mostly of poplar, but there are
some good groves of fine large spruce up to twenty-five inches in
diameter.”
Mr. Tyrrell states that on the southeastern shore of Athapapuskow lake
“considerable areas are covered with large white spruce.” Almost all the
country surrounding Cranberry lakes has been swept by fire, but many of
the islands are still wooded with white spruce of fair size. At
Wintering lake, “the surrounding shores rise gently from the water, and
are densely wooded with a close forest of white spruce, growing on the
rich clay soil.”
Mr. Tyrrell describes finding the site of an old fur station near
Setting lake “completely overgrown with large spruce trees, quite
indistinguishable from those of the surrounding forest.” He adds:—“In
many other instances the sites of the ancient fur-trading posts could be
recognized as small, usually rectangular, poplar-covered areas, in the
midst of or on the border of the adjoining forest.”
Mr. Tyrrell reports the banks of the south branch of Gunisao river,
which flows into the northeast side of Lake Winnipeg, as being “wooded
with beautiful tall white spruce, apparently forming
A MAGNIFICENT CONIFEROUS FOREST
but how far back from the river this forest extends was not determined.
There is certainly here a large quantity of valuable timber, much more
than was seen anywhere else in the country immediately east of Lake
Winnipeg.” Spruce up to twenty-four inches in diameter was noted.
In the report of his explorations in 1899 Mr. D. B. Dowling of the
Geological Survey states:—“In the southern part of the district, north
of Lake Winnipeg, spruce of both the white and black species is found of
fair diameter, but in going north the size materially decreases. Over
the major portion of the rocky country Banksian pine is the principal
tree, which, though not large enough in general for timber, might in the
future be of use for pulp wood.
“The hilly country to the south of Sisipuk lake and northwest of Loon
lake is not well timbered but the lower land between the two and on the
islands is fairly well covered by groves of small spruce.”
Mr. Dowling, in his report of 1901 on Ekwan district (See p. 21),
states:— “The timber along the coast gradually becomes smaller as we go
northward and the tree-line recedes from the shore, leaving it finally
at the Opinnagow so that the country behind that cape is more or less an
open plain. The shore, where the trees are at a distance from the beach,
is generally an even mud slope, covered above high tide with grass,
followed by a wide belt of stunted willows (gray) which look somewhat
like the sagebush of the western plains. Behind this, a few isolated
spruces of small stature appear before the tree line is reached. In
sailing along this coast, it is impossible to know which way to steer so
as to run parallel with the land, as nothing can be seen ahead by which
to shape one’s course.”
As to the timber in the interior of Ekwan river district, Mr. Dowling
reports:—“Along the streams there is a narrow fringe of timber, but in
approaching the tree-limit this becomes very small. Back from the
immediate slopes of the rivers the surface is nearly level, and
moss-covered, with scattered groups of small spruce and tamarack. The
greater part of the interior is reported to be muskeg (open bog). A
small collection of about forty species of shore plants was made at the
mouths of Ekwan and Albany rivers.
“Mr. Dowling found the surface of the terrace of Ekwan river to be
covered with a thick coating of moss, and the timber on it is mostly
small spruce and tamarack. Some of the trees might be from six to eight
inches in diameter, but the average is much less. At the edges of the
bank a fringe of larger trees occasionally appears, but it does not
extend far from the stream.”
RED LAKE RIVER AND RED LAKE.
In his report of his 1893 explorations Mr. Dowling says the timber on
the banks of Red lake river “is mostly poplar of a fair size with a
sprinkling of birch and black spruce. The birch average twelve inches in
diameter, but only a few of the spruce trees were found over eighteen
inches.”
Mr. Dowling says the forest about Red lake “is somewhat varied, spruce
and Banksian pine alternating as the dominant trees. On all the dry and
sandy ground a thick growth of slender Banksian pine is found, and no
trees of large size are apparently to be seen in such areas, but in the
valleys and near the lakes black spruce is occasionally met with,
forming small groves scattered through the forests of deciduous trees.
Individual trees of larger size are common on the islands and points
over which forest fires have not run, and such trees may attain in some
instances a diameter of twenty inches, but the average is under eighteen
inches. Birch and poplar are almost always present wherever the soil
admits. On the richer and lower ground, between Red lake and Gull Rock
lake, and farther down the river, the poplar trees are well grown and
appear in groves in which nearly all trees average eighteen inches in
diameter near the base. Farther to the westward on the higher ground,
the soil being sandy, the Banksian pine is more abundant, and near the
western end of Pipestone bay, some trees of red pine form a small grove,
which appears to be the northern limit of the species in this basin.”
Mr. Dowling says the trees near Trout lake river are mostly poplar, with
slender spruce on the lower land just behind. Occasionally Banksian pine
is seen on the drier parts. Mr. Dowling mentions a tall forest of poplar
and birch as bordering the western branch of White-mud river.
Speaking of the country explored by him about Lac Seul, Mr. Dowling
says:—“The country is well covered by timber but of small average
growth. The sandy tracts are generally wooded by Banksian pine, but in
the river-valleys and on the heavier land, poplar, birch and spruce are
abundant. White and red pine are found in small groves south of Lac Seul
and are of good average size for timber. On the lake are scattered trees
of both varieties. The northern limit of red pine extends to Red lake,
where a few trees were observed. Cedar of inferior growth occurs in
isolated localities and extends northwest to the height-of-land, but
none seem within Berens river basin.”
BASINS OF THE WINISK AND THE ATTAWAPISKAT.
According to Mr. McInnes’s report of his survey of the region drained by
the Winisk and the Attawapiskat in 1903, 1904 and 1905 (See p.
23):—“The average size of the trees growing within the country explored
is not great. On exceptionally favourable tracts the spruces attain
sizes quite large enough for commercial use as sawn lumber, and large
areas would afford good pulpwood. Evidences of the constant recurrence
of forest fires over the area are everywhere plainly seen. The brulé
areas, varying from quite small patches to large tracts, are of every
age; some are so old the forest has attained the full height of the old
growth and the newer age of the trees can only be ascertained by a
reference to their rings of growth, and others so recent that no
vegetation covers the blackened surface. These fires are generally the
result of the carelessness of Indian travellers, but may sometimes be
traced to the igniting of a dry, standing tree-trunk by lightning. The
oldest trees found in the whole area were growing on a till-covered
island, about fifty miles from the mouth of Winisk river. The complete
isolation from the mainland by broad channels ensured its protection
from fires having their origin outside its own borders. The spruces
growing here were found by their rings of growth to be between two
hundred and seventy and two hundred and eighty years old. The diameters
and ages of trees, growing in a number of different localities
throughout the region, were noted, and are given in the list below:—
──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
Diam. Age
in in. by
3 ft. rings,
from of
ground. growth.
──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
Tamarack, Winisk river, 32 miles from 9 100
mouth
Black spruce " 32 " 12 125
" " 32 " 12 153
" " 32 " 8 75
" " 50 " 10 275
" " 65 " near bank 8 130
" " 65 " " 6 115
" " 65 " 10 chains back 3 105
Tamarack " 65 " " 3 80
Black spruce " below Wapikopa 10 130
lake
" " Wapikopa lake 9 145
" " " 6 135
" " Nibinamik lake 9 75
" " " 5 75
" " above 15 130
Nibinamik lake
Aspen poplar " " 15 130
──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
_Note_:—It will be observed that this paragraph and other portions of this
testimony really refer to the Athabaska country treated of in the
preceding chapter; but to save an awkward dislocation of Prof. Macoun’s
testimony, it has been kept intact. (E. J. C.)
──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
As to the region explored by him in 1906 (See p. 23), Mr. McInnes
reports:—“Though a wooded country throughout, there are but limited
areas where the forest growth is of a size to be commercially of much
value. There are no hard woods, the only deciduous trees that attain
merchantable measurements being the canoe birch, the aspen and balsam
poplars and the tamarack. Black spruce is the most abundant coniferous
tree and grows to a size sufficient at least for pulpwood. Associated
with tamarack, it covers all the more marshy tracts, giving way where
the land becomes drier to white spruce, which is the timber tree of the
region, and on the driest ridges to Banksian pine. Forest fires have
been widespread and most destructive throughout the whole region sparing
only the very wet muskeg areas and a few tracts isolated by surrounding
water or marsh.
“White and black spruce, tamarack, aspen, balsam and canoe birch form
the forest surrounding Cross lake, the deciduous trees for the most part
growing only in a fringe along the immediate shores.
TREES OF SUITABLE SIZE FOR SAWING
into eight and ten inch boards are found on the islands, along the
stream valleys and in places near the lake shores, but the general
average size of the trees inland is smaller than this.”
Mr. McInnes has the following to say of the timber he noticed in his
ascent of Burntwood river:—“Above Odei river the forest is mainly
spruce and tamarack of about sixty years growth, the larger trunks
reaching diameters of from eight to ten inches, but the general average
not more than six inches. In the valleys occasional white spruces and
tamaracks attain diameters as great as eighteen inches. These are trees
that have escaped when the surrounding forest was burned and are
sufficient evidence that, but for the repeated fires, there would be
large areas covered with good timber. In the fifteen mile stretch of the
Burntwood below Waskwatim lake, the low flat along the river is covered
by sixty years’ timber growth, mainly of Banksian pine and spruce. The
higher plateau is wooded principally with spruce from six to eight
inches in diameter, with scattered Banksian pine, poplar and white birch
succeeding an earlier burned forest. A mixed second growth forest,
mainly aspen poplar, covers all the uplands round Waskwatim lake, while
on the islands and on low flats bordering bays of the lake are found
white spruce and poplar of diameters up to one foot. The country north
of Footprint lake is described by Mr. McInnes as being covered for the
most part with a mixed second growth from ten to thirty years old, but
with here and there clumps of white spruce, with tall and straight
trunks a foot or more in diameter. As to the region just north of the
Saskatchewan, Mr. McInnes says the areas of forest, where the trunks are
large enough to be of commercial value, are limited. The principal
tracts of large standing timber are situated to the north of Moose lake,
to the west of Atikameg, in lower Grass river valley and on the ridge
separating Cormorant and Yawningstone lakes. The last named tract
contains white spruce of exceptionally large size with tall clear
trunks. Smaller areas are found on islands and points in the various
lakes, along the upper valley of Cowan river, and in clumps along all
the stream valleys in the district. Smaller timber, mainly black spruce,
that would be of value for pulpwood, is much more widely distributed
over large areas.”
Mr. McInnes made a computation of the age of the trees in the area he
explored and found that the
ANNUAL GROWTH IS SLOW.
They run from four to fourteen inches in diameter. They would furnish,
he thinks, very strong and firm lumber, and the smaller trees, owing to
their closely packed fibres and the comparative absence of open cellular
matter, would be especially well adapted for the manufacture of pulpwood
for paper making.
Mr. McInnes, in his evidence before the Senate committee of 1907, stated
that the western part of Keewatin has evidently been a country of good
timber generally, but unfortunately it has been almost all burned over,
so that the only areas of good timber that he knew of were the area
north of Moose lake, the area west of Clearwater lake, and the area
between Cormorant and Yawningstone lakes. He made cross-sections in that
country several times, and he found white spruce, and the largest tree
he found was thirty inches in diameter. He would say most of these trees
make about three fourteen-foot logs because they were growing thickly,
and it was a regular white spruce timber limit. There were a great many
from ten inches up to twenty-three inches. That is an area about six
miles long by two or three wide, and going through that there are areas
of swamp. He cross-sectioned through it, and would come to a quarter of
a mile of good trees, and then perhaps a mile of swamp land with black
spruce, and half a mile of good trees right across. North of that point
there are only a few isolated areas of timber that had escaped the fire.
On the islands and lakes there were pretty good timbers, and on some
little peninsulas that are nearly cut off; otherwise it had all been
burnt.
ABOUT WATERPOWERS.
Specially referring to waterpowers, Mr. McInnes, in the report of his
explorations in 1906 (See p. 23), says:—“Between Lake Winnipeg and
Split lake, a distance of about two hundred and twenty-five miles, the
Nelson river has a descent of approximately two hundred and seventy-five
feet. The current between the numerous lake expansions is generally
swift, and upwards of a dozen falls and rapids occur, some of the former
offering magnificent sites for water powers. The aggregate power that
could be generated along the river is enormous, as the amount of water
passing over the various falls is very great. The volume of the river
can be appreciated by a consideration of the extent of its drainage
area, which embraces all the country westward to the mountains between
the watershed of the Churchill and Athabaska on the north, and the
Missouri on the south, and eastward to the head waters of Albany river,
and within fifty miles of Lake Superior.”
Mr. Owen O’Sullivan, in his 1906 report (See p. 23), states that the
shores of Assean lake, which is about twelve miles long and a mile wide,
are “well wooded with black spruce, tamarack, and white birch.” The
forest growth at Waskaiowaka lake is chiefly black spruce and white
birch of from four to fourteen inches in diameter. Mr. O’Sullivan
describes a hill of drift “covered mostly with black spruce averaging
eight inches in diameter” as rising for two hundred feet above the level
of the water on the east side of the expansion of the Little Churchill
below Waskaiowaka lake. As far down as the junction of Switching river
the country on both sides of the Little Churchill produces black spruce,
white birch and tamarack of small size. From a point eighty miles down
the Little Churchill northward, the country, which was overrun by a fire
that occurred some forty years ago, is now partly covered with bunches
of second-growth black spruce, tamarack and white birch. Bunches of
spruce and tamarack that escaped the fires were frequently met close to
the water’s edge.
In his evidence before the Senate committee of 1907, Mr. O’Sullivan
stated that in his trip in 1906, the only timber he saw was at Split
lake—spruce, poplar and white birch, from four to eighteen inches in
diameter. The country between there and Big lake is swampy and bears
black spruce with small spruce averaging four to six inches in diameter,
which would make good pulpwood. Then around Wabishkok there are birch
and white spruce, and so on. They are a little larger, as large as six
to eighteen inches in some places, occurring in isolated groves. The
black spruce would average in the nice terraces and level clay slopes
from the lake about eighteen inches. They grow that size and more. North
of that, between there and the tree limit or the open barren ground, the
country was
RUN OVER BY FIRE
about forty years ago, and probably there was another fire which
occurred about five years ago, so there are no trees. Going down the
Little Churchill there are no trees to be seen on the heights, except in
the valleys of the river, where groves of spruce and poplar which
escaped the fire are standing. These spruce and poplars which are in the
valleys are sometimes twenty inches in diameter. The cottonwood grows to
about fourteen inches. It is tall and very healthy looking. The spruce
trees grow pretty long, and quite a number of sawlogs could be taken out
of each tree. The soil is pretty good, but the area is small. After
leaving Big lake, all the way down there is no timber at all. In the
valleys of all the streams there is timber, consisting of bunches of
spruce and tamarack. At the Big Churchill the clay hills are mostly
covered with moss. It has been burned over, and there are good large
spruce in the valleys of Little Churchill river away up to about
eighteen or twenty inches in diameter, but they are very few. They are
all very healthy looking trees.
In 1902, Mr. Alfred W. G. Wilson, of the Geological Survey, made a
reconnaissance traverse across the southern part of the unexplored area
lying to the north of Lac Seul and east of Trout lake, visiting Slate,
Marsh, Gull, Smoothbrook, Cat and St. Joseph lakes. He states in his
report:—“The forest growth is found chiefly around the lakes and
streams. The sands, sandy gravels, or clays, usually of glacial origin,
are generally forested, the trees varying with the character of the
soil. There are large areas of nearly bare rock, where only a few
stunted conifers or poplars grow in the crevices. Where the soil is
sparse, and the country low-lying but yet fairly well drained, there is
an open forest, chiefly black spruce, and the ground is covered with a
dense mat of moss interlaced with fibrous roots. The soil covered, and
the swampy areas, are usually thickly overgrown with small shrubs,
mostly alder. In general the timber is rather small, in most parts of
the district at present too small even for pulpwood or ties.
Occasionally along streams the trees are larger, especially north of the
east end of Lac Seul. Another area of good timber, chiefly black spruce
and tamarack, occurs along Root river between Lac Seul and Lake St.
Joseph.”
Mr. J. W. McLaggan, in the account of his trip in 1907 (See p. 58),
describes the country between The Pas and Clearwater lake as covered
with small, mixed timber. On the north side of Cormorant lake, and along
the creek which connects it with Lake Yawningstone, and on the south
side of the latter lake, he saw from three to five million feet of good
milling spruce timber. Along Cowan river the country is described as low
and flat, with small quantities of good spruce timber in spots until
within a few miles of Black Duck lake when bunches of good spruce,
estimated at ten million feet, come into view. After crossing Black Duck
lake the country continues low and marshy, with scattered bunches of
spruce and tamarack of a size suitable for ties or pulpwood. As Mr.
McLaggan approached Reed lake he passed through low and swampy country
covered with scrubby timber. To the south of Reed lake about a million
feet of medium sized spruce were sighted. The country back was found to
have been burned over and now growing poplar, which, in a few years,
will make good pulpwood. On the north side of Herb lake there are spruce
and poplar fit for railway ties and pulpwood, and along the river to the
rapids there are small bunches of jackpine and tamarack and of
merchantable spruce, but back from the lake and river the country
appeared all burned. Mr. McLaggan expresses the opinion that there must
have been a good timber area bordering these waters, and that, if fire
can be kept out,
REFORESTATION WILL SOON BE EFFECTED.
Along the shores of and on the islands in Setting lake there is, Mr.
McLaggan estimates, about ten million feet of young, sound, clear spruce
timber, averaging from twelve to fourteen inches in diameter. Between
Setting and Paint lakes are two falls of thirty feet, where splendid
power can be developed; the banks of the river become higher and there
are small bunches of spruce and poplar, but back from the river has been
burned over. On the south side of Paint lake there is a fairly good
bunch of spruce, suitable for railway ties or pulpwood. Back from the
lake the country has been burned over but is growing up again with
poplar and other trees. On Methye lake Mr. McLaggan found the timber to
be mainly jackpine and tamarack of small size, a limited portion of
which would be fit for railway ties. Traversing File river, with the
exception of a bunch of spruce of about half a million feet, averaging
twelve to fourteen inches in diameter, there was seen nothing but small,
scrubby mixed timber of but little value. The country back from the
river has been burned over. Between Reed lake and Elbow lake he saw
about two million feet of good spruce and poplar, averaging from twelve
to fourteen inches in diameter. Towards the lower end of Cranberry lake
there are bunches of good spruce. It is estimated that there are a
million feet in all. The country continues rough and rocky, with patches
of good land and some muskeg. In the country between Cranberry and
Athapapuskow lakes there is a poor growth of scrubby timber. Some small
bunches of spruce were seen along Athapapuskow lake near the portage,
and by Goose river, but the country has all burned over, leaving only
small clumps of spruce. Speaking generally of the timber in the area
explored, Mr. McLaggan reported:—“The fires seem to have burned over
nearly all the country and I was not able to walk far enough into the
interior to find any land not burned, and from information gathered from
Indians and trappers, would conclude that this burned land reached from
Grass to Burntwood river, with the exception of small pieces along the
lakes and rivers. There is a growth of young timber coming up, since the
fire, which may be of value in time.”
W. Thibaudeau, C.E. (See p. 23), states in his report that although
there is no merchantable timber in the vicinity of Churchill, there is
abundance of fine building stone and limestone to be found everywhere,
and there is also an ample supply of timber for fuel purposes for many
years along both banks of Churchill river and around Button bay. He
continues:—“Between October 24, 1906, and November 9, 1906, I made an
exploration of the country between North river and Churchill river for a
distance south of Button bay, of about twenty miles. On the
EAST SIDE OF BUTTON BAY
I found a strip of good timber, consisting of spruce and tamarack six to
ten inches in diameter, about half a mile wide and extending three to
four miles in length on the east side, between the southern ridge of
Churchill peninsula and the bay, and about three miles south of
Churchill. At the head of Button bay (and parallel with it), there are a
number of parallel ridges extending to North river. These ridges are
timbered with spruce and tamarack four to ten inches in diameter. Close
to North river there is a good spruce timber ten to thirty inches in
diameter in small scattered bunches, covering a distance of about four
miles. At the southern end of the south ridge of the western peninsula
at Churchill, there is a strip of good spruce timber, six to twelve
inches in diameter, extending about two miles by four miles; also on the
east side of the same ridge about one and one-third miles south of
Mosquito point, there is a strip of good timber for a distance of about
four miles.
“Between December 7, 1906, and December 17, 1906, I made an exploration
of the country between Churchill and Owl rivers. Four miles from
Churchill river in a southerly direction I crossed a ridge, running in a
northeast and southwest direction at about one and one-half miles from
Hudson bay, extending opposite to Mosquito point. From the point of
crossing to the bay, on the sunny side, the ridge is well timbered with
spruce six to twelve inches in diameter. Twenty-five miles from the
starting point, I crossed another sandy ridge with scrubby timber. Two
miles west of this point there is a barren hill known as White mountain,
three hundred feet in height by one mile in length. At the eastern woods
there are a few square miles of spruce and tamarack averaging six to
eight inches in diameter. Close to White Whale lake I crossed another
gravel ridge having no timber. On each side of Salmon creek there are
scrubs, willows and small spruce, with grassy meadows. At Broad river to
the left of the place of crossing, for about four miles there is a strip
of timber one-third of a mile in width, eight to fourteen inches in
diameter, consisting of stunted black spruce.”
The section about Waskaiowaka lake is fairly level and dry, with some
scrub timber. The banks are steep and covered with very thick mossy
peat, probably ten feet thick. The timber consists of black spruce and
white birch from five to sixteen inches in diameter. From the Hudson’s
Bay Company’s post on Split lake to the mouth of Grass river, the
country on the east side of the lake is undulating, and part of the
banks and islands is fairly timbered with spruce. Part of the shore of
Landing lake and the islands are well timbered with spruce six to ten
inches in diameter. Travelling from Landing lake to the head of Sipiwesk
lake, the country was found dry and well timbered with spruce from eight
to fourteen inches in diameter. The islands of Sipiwesk lake are well
timbered with spruce, some being thirty inches in diameter. On Reed
lake, the islands are well timbered with spruce six to fourteen inches
in diameter. From Reed lake to Station 616 the country is level, forty
per cent. being swampy. There is some spruce and tamarack timber four to
eight inches in diameter. On the north side of Cormorant lake, there is
a strip of timber, four miles wide by ten miles long.
[Illustration: Log jam on Limestone river.]
THIS TIMBER WAS THE BEST SEEN
while exploring around that country.
Mr. Thibaudeau describes the country from Split lake and extending to
The Pas, ten miles in width on each side of the proposed route of the
Hudson bay railway, as “a pulpwood belt”. He says in his report:—“On
this area, assuming one-sixth to be covered by pulp wood, the balance
being river, lakes, ponds, swamps, etc., and assuming ten cords per acre
of an average of six inches in diameter, there would be five million
seven hundred and fifty-six thousand six hundred and sixty cords. This
is a very low, but safe estimate.”
Mr. Thibaudeau makes the following reference to the water powers in the
region explored by him:—“Deer river at its mouth has a minimum flow of
seven thousand cubic feet per minute. A dam, eighteen feet high, can be
built at reasonable cost and would generate one thousand six hundred
horse-power. Two dams of the same height could be built within ten miles
of the river mouth, which is twenty-five miles from Churchill. North
river, which is three hundred and fifty feet wide during December, had a
flow of not less than two hundred and fifty thousand cubic feet per
minute. With a fifteen-foot dam, it would generate about five thousand
horse-power. On Churchill river, within sixty to eighty miles from
Churchill, large waterpower could be developed and transmitted to
Churchill. Nelson river, Burntwood river and Grass river have a number
of falls which could be utilized for the development of power for use in
pulp mills or other industries.”
That portion of Mr. J. R. Dickson’s report (See p. 60) referring to the
timber of the district between
THE PAS AND CROSS LAKE
explored by him in 1910 is especially valuable. He states:—“In the
region we traversed, only five species, namely,—spruce, poplar,
tamarack, birch and jackpine have any possible commercial value, and of
these, speaking generally, only one, spruce, is large enough for sawmill
purposes or railway tie material. The poplar, birch and pine are
invariably too short, spindly, limby and crooked for any use save fuel
or pulpwood, and what mature tamarack there was is now standing dead
from insect attack. We did not find over two hundred green tamarack
above ten inches in diameter all summer. This remnant is on the
northeast end of Bear island in Sipiwesk lake. Black spruce is easily
the predominant species in all that region, and, except on very
occasional well-drained tracts of spruce-flat type, where it reaches ten
to fourteen inches in diameter at breast height, it is a small spindly
tree, only four to eight inches diameter breast height at maturity,
useless even for second class ties. This is the condition in which the
jackpine also occurs. The white spruce, therefore, is the only species
large enough to furnish construction timber, sawlogs, or even railway
ties, and the supply is very limited. In the first place, this species
occurs only on the best drained spots, such as river and lake margins or
on the small islands; in the second, the fires of the past one hundred
years have destroyed nearly all the old stand. To sum up then, only a
mere fraction of one per cent. of the area we surveyed now carries
merchantable timber—a fringe along lower Mitishto and upper Minago
rivers, and on a few of the islands and peninsulas in the larger
lakes—as shown on the map. There is probably enough timber available to
build the rough construction work of the Hudson Bay Railway.
“From the mere size of the country and the density of the oncoming
second growth stands, the possible supply of firewood is enormous.
Because of its remoteness from settlement, however, it has no present
commercial value. Owing to the killing by bark beetles of practically
all the larger tamarack (or possibly killed by larch sawfly previous to
beetle attack, though we found no trace of the sawfly), there is almost
no green pile timber of any value in the whole region. Hence, unless by
importation, the only choice left is between dead tamarack and the
largest of the close-grained black spruce. The latter would remain sound
in soil contact for about ten or twelve years, which would
satisfactorily cover the first initial experimental stage in the
operation of the new road.
“Just at the present time, within the area we inspected, the timber is
too young and small upon the whole to be cut at a profit even for
pulpwood. But in the absence of fires for twenty years the now
eighty-year-old stands of four to eight-inch timber can be profitably
cut for this purpose, and it is probable that within the next quarter of
a century part of the
ENORMOUS ENERGY NOW RUNNING FREE
in the falls and rapids of Nelson and Grass rivers will be harnessed to
drive pulp and paper mills. The age of the reproduction is in nearly
every case a measure of the time which has elapsed since the last
destructive fire occurred. As a general rule, to which, however, there
are endless local exceptions and variations—the young growth is
approximately either forty or eighty years of age, the former being now
one to four inches in diameter, and the latter four to eight inches, but
none yet large enough for making railway ties. It will, however, soon be
suitable for pulpwood. Scattered trees from older stands occur in this
second growth, but not in sufficient number to repay the cost of
lumbering. The rate of growth in the very dense stands that are usual in
that latitude is decidedly slow except where the soil and drainage
conditions happen to be just right. Black spruce on semi-muskeg, a site
of average quality for that species, is only four to five inches in
diameter breast height at one hundred years. White spruce is rather
fastidious regarding moisture conditions and only appears on fairly
well-drained spots, attaining there a size of eight to twelve inches
diameter within a century. Poplar in that time reaches eight to ten
inches. As for jackpine, occasional trees reach twelve to sixteen
inches, but only after long immunity from fires, and such trees are too
limby for use. I saw no jackpine stand where the trees would average
even six inches in diameter. If the general drainage conditions could in
some way be improved so as to partially replace the unprofitable black
spruce with the white species,
THE WEALTH PRODUCING POWER OF THE REGION
would be immeasurably greater.”
Mr. William Beech of Churchill, in his communication to the press
referred to in the preceding chapter (See p. 63), writes of the timber
resources of Hudson bay region:—“Another valuable asset of the district
is the timber which everywhere dots the regions around the bay. The most
northerly species is the spruce, which extends north of Churchill about
forty miles, as far as Seal river, and which attains the height of about
thirty feet and an average diameter of from twelve to fifteen inches.
The balance of the timber is pulpwood and this exists in unlimited
quantities. When you consider that the best of water power is available
all along the rivers for the manufacture of this product, it will be
seen that this is but another of the valuable resources of the
district.”
As to the water powers available, Mr. Beech writes:—“There are a great
number of magnificent water power sites, within very easy access of the
surveyed route of the railway, all of which can be easily developed to
furnish almost unlimited electrical energy. Hydro-electric energy could
be developed at any one of these sites within a distance of thirty miles
from the road, which would make transmission to points along it, or
possibly operation of it actually, by electricity. It certainly assures
cheap power for any manufacturing or milling centre which may develop.
All these power locations must inevitably become very valuable. A few
years ago, no one, with the exception of one or two far-seeing and
experienced individuals, believed in the power propositions on Winnipeg
river where so much development is now taking place. To-day what are
they worth? They cannot be bought at any price. I believe the same will
be true of the sites contiguous to the Hudson Bay Railway.”